Large DIY electronic lock. Using an electric lock on the front door - installation and configuration. The operating principle of an electromechanical lock with a video intercom

For every person, the protection of his home is important. Therefore, people tend to install strong doors and locks. Unfortunately, they are not always able to protect the property and health of the owners from outside interference. Electromagnetic locks are a new product that every day wins the hearts of more and more consumers. Despite its apparent simplicity and accessibility, an electromagnetic lock is capable of protecting a house, cottage and other premises from unauthorized intrusion by third parties.

Many, of course, are skeptical about such locks, because if you make an effort, such locks can be easily opened. But still this force must be too great to open such a lock. Agree, not every burglar will be able to hit a door with a load of 250 kg. Therefore, you can be calm and feel free to install such a miracle lock in your home and sleep peacefully. Your property will be reliably protected.

How does an electromagnetic lock work?

The operating principle of an electromagnetic lock is based on the use of only two things - a magnet and a reed switch. When using these materials, excellent functioning of the lock and key is achieved. The electromagnetic lock consists of 4 reed switches, as well as 1 electromagnet.

One of the reed switches is equipped with a normally closed contact, and all the others are equipped with a normally open contact. You can install reed switches any way you like, the sequence is not important. By the way, their number can be varied as desired. How more quantity reed switches, the greater the secrecy of the lock.

Magnetic lock and key device

The reed switches must be installed parallel to the holes in which the magnetic key will be located. It must be taken into account that the reed switches and magnets must be placed at the same distance, and it should not be higher than 5 mm. The reed switches must be placed at an equal distance from the center of the magnets on the key. As soon as the key fits tightly into the keyhole, the magnets and reed switches will stand opposite each other. As a result, the contacts close.

We remember that one of the reed switches has a closed contact, and the magnet cannot act on it. But, a current flows through the magnet, which forces the reed switch to operate. As soon as a stranger wants to open a magnetic lock, using not a magnetic key, but an ordinary magnet that fits in size. All available reed switches will operate, and the reed switch with a closed contact will open, as a result of which the circuit will be interrupted. And the mechanism will never open.

In order to make an electromagnetic lock with your own hands, you can take any reed switches. But, you need to take into account the fact that the current during operation of the magnet should not be higher than the permissible operating current of the reed switches. Magnets can be taken from any available tool equipped with a magnet.

Installing an electromagnetic lock yourself is very easy!

Magnetic lock installed on front door, is held in place by a strong magnet. Current flows through the magnet. And its strength directly depends on the effort applied when opening the door, or, to put it simply, on how much power is in the lock. During the operation of the mechanism, an electromagnetic field is formed inside the structure, which holds the plate. Which, in turn, closes the lock and prevents it from opening. When a lock is inserted into the hole, the circuit is broken and the electromagnetic field disappears.

Electromagnetic locks operate by DC voltage. On heavy metal doors, it is recommended to install magnetic locks that can hold up to 1000 kg. For internal doors, you can choose magnetic locks with a hold of up to 150 kg. For the front door, a lock with a hold of up to 200-250 kg is quite enough.

Before you begin installing such a lock, you need to make special markings. It is necessary to carefully measure the place where the castle is planned to be located. When the location for the lock has been chosen, several holes must be made in the marked area to secure the structure. After this, you need to install the cover, as well as bring and connect all the necessary wires.

You need to attach a plate to the door. A special pin is installed in this plate, which fixes its location. The fastening will hold the door under the load for which the magnetic lock is designed. The magnetic lock body is located directly opposite the plate. If you want your lock to work accurately, you need to take into account that the body of the installed lock, as well as the plates, must be pressed tightly when the door is closed.

As you have seen, installing an electromagnetic lock with your own hands is not at all difficult. Anyone who has basic knowledge can assemble such a structure. An electromagnetic lock can protect you and your home from burglars and other unwanted guests. With such a lock, you can be calm about the safety of your home and summer cottage.

It happens that random events force and mobilize to new ideas and creativity. What kind of radio amateur are you if you repeat everything and buy it ready? So it happened to me that I didn’t have to think long. And now the pockets are not loaded with excess cargo. It was winter, the key to the linen room broke, right in the lock. Attempts to remove the “stub” of the key were unsuccessful. I decided not to buy a new lock, but to remake the old one. In addition, three neighbors use the premises. While searching on the Internet for a simple combination lock, every now and then I came across circuits based on microcontrollers or several microcircuits. I needed to solve the problem simply and quickly. I decided to test the circuit based on the Johnson counter. What I found on the network was not suitable for repetition. The circuits were “raw”, non-working and did not have a time delay for holding the lock drive.

Electronic combination lock - circuit diagram

This scheme exists in different variations, and on different counters ( K561IE8, K561IE9, K176IE8, CD4022 and the like). I modified the circuit based on CD4017 (decimal counter divider with 10 decrypted outputs QO...Q9). Analogue microcircuit CD4017(Johnson counter) is K561IE8, K176IE8. I found a microcircuit with the designation EL4017AE, which I used in this device. When repeating a device, don’t be lazy, identify the markings - they differ in characteristics ( operating voltage). All necessary project files are .

So, the working of the electronic combination lock circuit is very simple. When the correct four-digit serial code is entered, a logical one appears at the output of the microcircuit (Q4), which leads to the opening of the lock. When you dial an incorrect number (buttons S5-S10), which is not part of the code, the circuit goes to its original state, that is, it is reset through the 15th pin of the microcircuit ( RESET). When S1 is pressed, a single state on the third pin Q0 of the microcircuit is supplied to the input of the field-effect transistor VT1; when it opens, it supplies voltage to pin 14 ( CLOCK) which switches the single state to the second output Q1, then when the buttons S2, S3, S4 are pressed sequentially, the signal goes to Q2, Q3, and ultimately, when the correct code is entered from output Q4, the signal opens transistor VT2 for a short time, determined by the capacitance of the capacitor C1, including relay K1 which, with its contacts, supplies voltage to the actuator (electric lock, latch, or automobile “activator” (actuator)).

There is one thing, the code cannot consist of the same digit. For example: 2244, the values ​​must be different, like: 0294, etc. Anyway, possible options There are a lot of codes, about one ten thousand, which is quite enough to use this combination lock in everyday life.

About the details of the combination lock

All radio components are cheap and can be replaced with other analogues. For example: VT2 can be replaced with the same npn transistor: 2N2222, BD679, KT815, KT603. To bypass the relay, it is better to use a Schottky diode. VD7 may not be installed, although it is better to have it to avoid polarity reversal (the voltage drop across it is not critical, since the circuit also works at 9V). Any relay with a lower operating current, 12V, with contacts designed for the lock drive current.

Now about the design of the castle

The scheme is simple, tested, it has been working for a year and a half without problems, in hot and cold conditions. And most importantly, it’s easy to repeat! You buy radio components, you can use the circuit board.

As a drive for the lock, I used a simple automobile electric drive (actuator). The kit also includes fastenings - metal strips that need to be redone, as can be seen in the photographs. It all depends on what kind of lock is used for the renovation. You can install a ready-made electric strike from the company FASS LOCK Itemno:2369 (8-12V,12W). In this case, the capacitance of capacitor C1 is changed so as to obtain a time delay of 0.5-1s.

In my case, I attached a metal strip to the plastic handle of the lock, attaching it directly with self-tapping screws. From it to the drive, a spoke is put on (comes complete with the activator), and then the electric drive itself is also attached with self-tapping screws to the base of the door. The relay board is installed on the door and wiring from the keypad and power is supplied. As a body, I used plastic cover from under the coffee, drilling two holes for fastening.

The keypad for dialing the code is made from the remainder of a U-shaped aluminum profile, for furniture facades, can be purchased at any furniture hardware store. The profile is cut based on the number of buttons (10 pcs.). After this, you need to drill holes for the buttons, the diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the button, so that the button with the cambric (tube) on it fits into the hole. This way it will be centered and, as a result, move freely when pressed, without jamming. This is done so that when filling the buttons with glue there is no mixing, but more on that later.

Filling buttons

It's time to secure the buttons in place in advance. drilled holes. We insert the cambric into the buttons and put them in their place, as can be seen in the photo. Afterwards, you need to fasten them with drops of glue or hot melt glue. But this must be done carefully, so that there are no gaps left if the buttons are filled epoxy resin! Because my first panel, filled with epoxy, remained as a museum exhibit. The epoxy is very fluid and it seeped into the buttons and glued them together. Like this. I had to do everything anew and this time I filled the panel with hot glue. The buttons can be pre-glued, so as to secure them in place, with a two-component, instant glue used by furniture makers for gluing MDF, sold in the same place as aluminum profiles - in furniture fittings stores.

Of course, before pouring, you need to solder all the wires to the buttons and LEDs as you can see in the photographs. All this ensures a reliable, waterproof and non-removable keyboard, as well as Beautiful design, which is applicable to any entrance doors, safes or garage doors. Also, the device can be used for security systems.

Now we drill two holes for screws to attach the panel. Also, one or two holes for LEDs (d=3mm). One of them (green light) on the right to indicate that the lock is open. The other one is not used, it can be connected to the power supply for a constant glow or through an additional button to illuminate the keyboard when it is pressed. Accordingly, the LED should be white (ultra bright), fixed so that the light flux is directed towards the buttons. You can cut another piece of the profile and attach it to the keypad on top, or even use a ready-made keyboard from a calculator or other devices. And if you make front panel made of plexiglass, then you will have a solution for backlighting the entire keyboard!

And lastly, the numbers can be applied ready-made, or you can draw them yourself using a felt-tip pen, and then cover the aluminum profile with simple tape. This is done immediately after drilling the holes for the buttons. Of course, there are a lot of wires in relation to devices on microcontrollers, but not everyone has the opportunity to make such devices. The essence of this lock is that even a person who does not have any special skills in radio electronics can assemble it. I bought the parts, assembled it over the weekend, hung it up and connected it. All. This circuit does not require any adjustments. And yet, the code can be changed at any time. All wires from the keyboard are connected inside the combination lock body. Don't forget to label each wire. I used self-adhesive labels for price tags.

I would like to note that over the past time, there are no obvious signs of abrasion on the buttons! Most likely due to the black plastic. They are used daily. But it doesn’t hurt to clean and change the code from time to time.

Device power supply

The device is powered by an uninterruptible power supply from the company Dantom . It has a built-in 12V/7A gel battery. You can assemble the same one, the circuit is very simple, it produces a constant small charging current (several milliamps with a fully charged battery, and 70 - 100 with a discharged one). This is enough to power several electric locks and electric strikes. Or make a smaller block if you only have one door with combination lock. Let's say: L7812CV, LM317, KR142EN8B. Also, the system can be powered from switching power supplies.

Schematic diagram of power supply unit RIP

Printed circuit board BP RIP

In the proposed backup power supply (RPS) circuit, a moisture-proof transformer is used, but you can use any other 20-40 Watt, with an output voltage of 15-18 Volts. If there is only one car actuator under load, then a less powerful transformer will do. For several electric locks, the electrolytic capacitor C1 must have a higher capacitance than that indicated in the diagram - for a greater energy reserve when triggered and, accordingly, a smaller voltage drop across the load. Capacitor C2 – 0.1-0.33mF, C3 – 0.1-0.15mF. The radiator for IC1 is larger, about 100-150 cm2, since in a case with a battery, extra heating is not needed! The output load current for L7815CV is 1.5A. Moreover, if a plastic box is used as a housing, do not forget about the ventilation holes. Diode D8 and fuse FS2 serve as short circuit protection.

Security RIPs have a button ( tamper) against unauthorized hacking of the device - we won’t need it. On the board, to connect wires it is better to use soldering instead of terminals, as the most in a reliable way fastenings Also, it is appropriate to play it safe and take the spare power wiring out of the room, in case of an unforeseen event (stuff happens in life).

Video of a homemade lock in action

That's all, I hope you found it useful. ).

Discuss the article HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRONIC CODE LOCK

Any owner of a private home wants to protect their yard from intruders. And the decisive point in this matter is right choice lock on the gate. They can be different - from the good old padlocks and mortise locks to complex security systems. The most popular option today is an electric gate lock. This article will tell you about the features of choosing and operating such devices.

Advantages and disadvantages of an electric lock

First of all, let's understand the operating principles of an electrically controlled lock. From the outside the device is opened with a key (magnetic or regular), and from the inside - either with a button located on the inside of the door, or remotely using an intercom.

Important parts in the electric lock design are two bolts - cocking and working. When the door closes, the first one cocks the spring, and the second one enters the part of the lock called the response. In this case, the door is locked, and it becomes impossible to open it simply by pulling the handle. When we need to unlock the gate, using a button, an electric signal is sent to the electromagnet solenoid in the lock, the spring retainer is reset, and the working bolt is pulled back into the lock under its action.

A modern electric gate lock has the following “advantages”:

• to open the door, there is no need to go outside (if you have an electric lock installed on the gate with an intercom);
• magnetic keys are difficult to counterfeit;
• resistance to environmental influences allows you to extend the service life of the lock;
• electric locks provide high level security of your home.

The disadvantages of an electric gate lock include, first of all, difficulty in installation (installation of such a lock should only be carried out by an experienced specialist), as well as dependence on the power supply and the high cost of the device itself.

However, there are several types of electrically controlled locks:

We also note that for correct operation of the device, it is required that the control voltage be within 12 V, and the current strength should be from 1.2 to 3 A, depending on the lock model.

Related articles:

Air mattress Most of us have encountered a situation where we urgently need to organize an extra bed. And they cope with this task best air mattress– easy to use and store. The article will tell you about inflatable double mattresses.	Straight razor with replaceable blades Shaving accessories are one of the traditional gift options for men. But we don’t recommend giving you shaving foam for the hundredth time; pay attention to something more original. For example, in last years The popularity of straight razors with replaceable blades has increased dramatically.
Construction knife with replaceable blades In the process of construction or repair, we often resort to the help of a knife. And of course, you want to always have a convenient, reliable and sharp tool at hand. Construction knives with a retractable blade fully meet all these requirements. Read more about them in the article.	Intercoms for a private home There is hardly a person who is absolutely indifferent to the security of his home. Therefore, various castles security systems and intercoms are also popular among residents apartment buildings, and among estate owners. In this article we will talk about intercoms for a private home.

The door hardware production company is a reliable and trusted manufacturer of high-quality door hardware. Using the experience gained while working with manufacturers of door hardware of foreign and domestic designs, the company Code Locks METTEM has the opportunity to create fittings of ideal quality.

METTEM combination locks Product categories: Products are produced simultaneously in several price categories, this gives customers the opportunity to choose the best product for them. 1. Economic - an inexpensive option with a beautiful design.

2. Standard – products of excellent quality with an attractive design. 3. Premium - elegant and impeccable products with high quality defense mechanisms and exclusive design.

Company Code locks METTEM

provides huge selection door hardware, with a huge number of excellent quality products and several product groups. METTEM combination locks Advantages of products from the METTEM combination locks company over products from other manufacturers: Accessories from the METTEM combination locks company are, first of all, quality and reliability - the main characteristics that ensure long-term use of goods.

In the manufacture of door fittings, the best modern technologies, years of accumulated experience, as well as materials of exceptional quality. The company produces accessories in accordance with European quality standards, which makes it possible to fully satisfy the requirements of modern customers, namely in such requests as: 1. Affordable price - branded products go on sale without a % markup or commission.

2. Good assortment - the product catalog consists of a wide variety of products: from simple, laconic fittings to exclusive design elements. 3. Material of ideal quality - metals are used in the production of products best quality: brass, steel best brands, as well as copper and other alloys. Our

It is intended for installation on metal and wooden doors where high security properties are not required, and locking is needed more for show, from passing idlers.

Therefore, the locking device in question is popular in places such as entrance doors, public toilet doors, gazebos, utility rooms, etc.

Please note that despite all the advantages of this castle, its security properties are frankly low. Therefore, there is no need to install it on unguarded critical premises with a single lock.

Another important point: the lock is assembled for internal opening doors and cannot be installed on external opening doors.

The plant states in the passport that there is a modification that can be installed on externally opening doors. But, to be honest, we have never seen anything like this.

The latch is raised to the operating position when the door slams.

In this case, it is extremely important to install the counter part of the ZKP on the door, which it comes with.

The locking latch of the lock consists of two parts: cocking and locking. When the door is latched, the cocking part of the latch, if the lock is installed correctly, rests against the strike plate and is recessed into the body. At this moment, the locking part of the latch is loaded by the force of the spring, which also drags this part into the body.

But it is prevented from entering by the locking plates, which actually secure the code.

To open the ZKP, you need to simultaneously hold down the digits of the set code. By default, the ZKP is assembled from the factory with code 38.

From the inside combination lock The mettam is controlled by simply moving the handle, like a valve.

The latch is fastened both to the front mounting holes and to the end holes.

In addition, it is important to secure the counter part, exactly the one that comes with the kit.

We emphasize that the correct installation of the combination lock in question is a frankly difficult task. It is important not only to arrange everything at the same required horizontal level, but also to correctly calculate the distance between the movable lock on the canvas and the fixed lock.

It happens that at the door the gap between the door leaf and the frame is initially huge.

And after installing this locking device, the latch simply does not reach the intended hole, that is, it does not fix the door. In the instruction manual, the manufacturer writes that the gap between the body and the response should not exceed 3 mm.

And there are situations exactly the opposite, when there is a very small distance between the box and the canvas.

And having secured the striker with the lock, the door stops closing, because the end of the lock simply rests against the striker.

It is not uncommon to see a ZKP installed on the street gate of a private house.

Open to all rains, winds and adversities. You can hear negative reviews from the owners of these locks, like the lock is bad and often breaks.

We repeat from time to time: there are no airtight locks that will work well in cold weather. Pieces of ice will prevent it from working properly and will dramatically shorten its service life. Avoid direct contact with moisture on the case, and everything will be fine.

And so, the quality of the ZKP is excellent.

At correct installation and compliance with operating conditions, these latches work for many, many years.

By the way, one more important note. The mettam combination lock is one of the few locking devices that can and should be lubricated periodically.

Because there are no small code elements in the lock. All parts are rather bulky plates. And at the same time, each of them is loaded with the force of powerful springs.

Therefore, the lubrication in this case will reduce the friction forces between mating parts and increase the service life of the latch.

Instructions for changing the code

The mettam combination lock is assembled from the factory under the number 38.

That is, in order to open such a lock now, you need to cock it and simultaneously press the two middle keys.

Let's learn how to change the code of this lock.

To do this, we need to unscrew the four screws of the back cover.

So, the combination of the lock is specified by ten plates of the same shape.

Each plate is located under one of ten keys, each of which corresponds to a specific number relative to the number overlay.

Each plate can be installed in two positions. In one position it will include the number below it in the code combination, in another position it will exclude it.

What does it mean?

Now the lock has a combination of two numbers 3 and 8

These numbers are in the middle of each horizontal line.

And if you now look closely at the code plates, you can see that they all have a bevel. But only in two numbers does this bevel look inside the lock. As you may have guessed, these plates correspond to the numbers 3 and 8.

All other plates have a bevel facing away from the lock.

Therefore, to change the code, we need to swap these plates.

In order to ensure an increased level of secrecy, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, at least three digits must be included in the code.

Today I will describe and disassemble into parts a combination lock from the Russian company METTEM, model lock ZKP-1 (aka ZKP-30).

The lock is push-button (also called a latch), mechanical. In a modernized form, it replicates those locks that were manufactured back in the USSR (the METTEM company was founded in 1992 on the basis of the Molot plant, Moscow).

Balashikha).

So, the lock body, thoroughly made from strong steel, is covered with... I don’t know what exactly this coloring is called (maybe hammer enamel?), Only ten steel buttons and a 2 mm thick plate on which the manufacturer’s logo and numbers are embossed protrude from the outside of the door .

Opening is done by simultaneously pressing three buttons. The code can be changed.

On the reverse side there is an overhead ledge and a handle for opening the lock from the inside.

The lock has a double outer tongue with a square cross-section, and another movable one inside with a round cross-section.

Let's start disassembling the METTEM ZKP-1.

Remove the plate with the stamped numbers.

We turn the lock over and unscrew the four screws of the protective cover and remove it along with the manual opening lever.

This block has flat springs that press on the code plates, which in turn press on the buttons.

Under this plate we see slots for coding plates - these are the so-called tsugali or levers.

Let's take them out. The code is changed by changing the combination of these plates (shuffling).

Turn the lock over and unscrew the two button blocks.

Their bodies are made of aluminum, or some kind of aluminum alloy. Buttons are steel cylinders with caps.

There are also slots for tsugali in the lock cover under the button blocks.

Now nothing holds the lid, remove it and look inside.

Inside we see a crossbar and two U-shaped guides.

The bolt consists of a latch finger, it is located inside the holder (tongue), the bolt slider - the latch shank moves in it.

In the center of the crossbar there is a pin - a pin with a nut; it moves in the slot of the crossbar slider. Below are photographs of the subsequent step-by-step dismantling of the ZKP-1 lock...

Drawing of locks ZKP-1 and ZKP-2

This completes the disassembly of the METTEM ZKP-1 combination lock.

You can lubricate the whole thing and put it back together - but I took it apart one way at a time...

The product, in my opinion, is of high quality, reliable, preserving good Soviet traditions, like something “made to last”...

Electromechanical, coded, autonomous lock Cisa-Nimeo

The electromechanical lock Cisa-Nimeo is intended for use in public premises, such as offices, factories, educational institutions and anywhere where a multi-level access control system is required.

The basis of the lock is the latest generation micro controller, which allows you not only to control the lock using a code, card and radio remote control, but also to create separate groups of users with personal codes and electronic cards. Using this function, if necessary, you can erase a specific card or code from the lock’s memory, as well as replace them with new ones.

This is not available in conventional electronic locks, and if you need to remove one card, you have to remove them all.

Gate lock - selection of the best modern models and options for their proper installation (85 photos)

Cisa-Nimeo is of particular interest where there is no possibility of supplying electricity to operate a conventional electronic lock. Autonomous power supply is provided by 4 AA batteries with a service life of up to 12 months.

Lock characteristics:

• Lock type: electronic
• Installation type: mortise
• Opening methods: by code, by card, radio remote control, fur.
• Number of digits in the code: from 6 to 12
• Number of registered cards: up to 50
• Card type: Em marine 125 kHz
• Opening by code: yes
• Opening by remote control: yes (paid separately)
• Mechanical key opening: yes
• Opening by card: yes
• Display backlight: yes
• Permissible door thickness: from 40 to 70 mm
• Permissible humidity: from 40% to 80%
• Operating temperature: -15°С to +50°С
• Power supply: DC 6V (AA alkaline batteries, 4 pcs.)
• Battery life: 1 year (10 openings per day)
• Dimensions of the inner part of the lock (WxHxD): 69.5x161.5x80.3 mm
• Dimensions of the outer part of the lock (WxHxD): 69.5x161.5x91.9 mm
• Available Colors: Antique Bronze, Nickel
• Material: steel, zinc, ABS plastic
• Country of origin: Italy

Mortise part of the lock

Housing with separate latch and retractable bolt.

The main area of ​​application is installation in metal and wooden doors to replace an old lock with similar dimensions.

Housing with “Compact” latch

The main area of ​​application is installation in interior doors to a new place or instead of an old one with similar dimensions.

The price of the lock with installation is 24,000 rubles.
Controller with 1 radio remote control - 7,000 rubles.
Additional remote control - 1500 rub.
Card - 100 rubles.

How to install a combination lock on a gate?

After completing the construction of the fence, each owner has a question about how to secure their own territory adjacent to the house.

In this regard, many are beginning to think about installing a good and fairly high-quality lock on the gate. This issue must be taken seriously, because it is very important for the safety of everyone living in this house.

Initially, you should understand that a reliable lock will definitely have a fairly high cost.

Code locks. Peculiarities

Such protective devices are quite popular among most buyers today. There are several types of combination locks.

✔ Mechanical lock .

In this option, attackers will not be able to break into the lock, because it does not have keyhole. However, if the home owner forgets the code, then such a device will not be able to be opened. A mechanical combination lock is installed on the gate. This device has the property of latching automatically.

✔ Electromechanical lock is a combined version of a protective device.

This type of lock is considered complicated because it is equipped with mechanical drives powered by electricity. This type is more reliable.

There are mortise and rim locks. The overhead option is a simple overhead device with only a button, when pressed the lock will open. It is possible to put a lock on such a lock and then the gate will be open all the time.

In addition to all this, such devices have a mechanism through which you can open the gate with a simple key.

✔ Electronic version of the lock programmed for a specific set of numbers. If you enter the code correctly, the door will open.

Installation of a combination lock

You can install it yourself combination lock for gate . The most important thing is to have instructions for the protective device. This will make the work easier.

It is also important to prepare in advance the required tools for installing the lock.

Procedure

✔ First, the main part of the lock is applied, and then its complementary part is applied to the gate leaf.
✔ The reverse part is attached to the gate with a screwdriver.
✔ The locking bolt is inserted into the opposite side of the lock.

Selecting and installing an electric lock for gates, intercoms and gates

Holes for the keyboard and crossbar are drilled.
✔ The lock and handle are attached with screws. Finally, you should definitely attach the lid to the lock and check how it does its job.

How to change the code on a combination lock. How to set a combination lock?

Combination locks provide a high level of security for the premises, since they are quite difficult to crack, much less open with a found key or a special master key.

Thanks to the development of new technologies, such devices are becoming not only more reliable, but also more affordable every year.. Today, most entrance doors of apartment buildings are equipped with a combination lock. Owners of office buildings also appreciated the convenience of mechanisms with the ability to open the door with a unique code.

It was possible to ensure a high level of secrecy due to the ability to change the code combination. Changing the lock password may be necessary in various situations.

For example, after repair work it is worth changing the code to limit access to workers who knew the previous combination. Also It is recommended to periodically change the code every 3–5 months, since characteristic abrasions may remain on the lock buttons, which will allow an attacker to choose the correct combination of numbers.

Types of combination locks and how to change the code

Today, there are several types of combination locks, which differ in the degree of secrecy and operating principle.

Let's look at how the code is changed on each type of lock.

Mechanical combination locks. This type of device is considered obsolete, but, nevertheless, it can still be often found. To change the code on a lock with mechanical buttons, you will need to partially disassemble the case to gain access to special plates.

Each of the plates corresponds to a button on the dial pad and has a slight bevel on one side. By removing the plate and placing it at an angle towards the center of the lock, the corresponding button becomes part of the code.

Electromechanical andelectronic combination locks. Such devices are more practical and are very popular due to the possibility of integration into an overall access control system.

Electromagnetic combination locks can be found in almost all apartment buildings, and in recent years they have begun to be in demand among owners country cottages, where they are installed on the entrance gate.

Changing the code to electromechanical or electronic locks can be done in two ways, it depends on the selected model:

Using code, which puts the device into programming mode.

A special code allows you to put the lock into the mode of changing the code combination, after which you need to enter a new code. Having returned the lock to the standard operating mode, you need to make sure that it works with the new number combination.

Using a special key.

Such models are equipped with a special key; it allows you to put the lock into a mode in which it is possible to set a new code. All that remains is to enter another combination of numbers, remove the key and check the functionality of the device.

Regardless of the type of combination lock, changing the secret combination of numbers is carried out within 5–7 minutes and does not require special skills, but if this procedure seems complicated, it is better to seek help from specialists.

Currently, almost all luggage manufacturers install combination locks on their products: padlocks, built-in ones, or any kind, the main thing is that your things are safe.

Installing an electric lock yourself

And very often a traveler is faced with a problem: how to set the code on a suitcase? It’s good if there are instructions in the suitcase, but what if there aren’t? What to do in this case? In fact, this is not a complicated and quick procedure at all.

Any model has an initial factory code of 000 (three zeros).

You can leave this combination, or you can set your own. All that remains is to determine the type of lock.

How to set a code on a suitcase: built-in lock

You plastic polypropylene suitcase with snaps?

Then in most cases the lock is installed like this:

1. Open the suitcase and make sure that you have the factory code - three zeros
2. At the bottom of the combination lock (or with inside, depending on the model) there is a plate (or metal lever) that must be moved from position A to position B (usually from bottom to top)
3. While holding the die/lever, set the desired combination, for example 234, and return the die/lever to its original position.

   Code installed!

Polycarbonate or fabric suitcases usually come with a padlock or built-in combination lock. The instructions for these are quite similar.

Built-in combination lock:



1. Press the large PUSH button to make the sliders pop out of the lock
2. Check that the combination of numbers corresponds to three zeros (000)
3. Find the small code blocking button on the side of the lock; it is almost invisible and is usually located on the side where the sliders are located.
4. Take a pencil or pen and push the lock button inward.

   Keep it pressed

5. Dial the desired combination of numbers
6. Remove the pencil from the lock button and press the large PUSH button. Ready!

How to set a code on a suitcase: padlock

Well, the last modification of the castle is padlock combination.

1. Remove the lock from the suitcase and set the initial combination three zeros - 000
2. Turn the lock shackle 90 or 180 degrees, then you will see that there is a recess into which you need to press this shackle and hold it pressed.
3. Enter your unique code by turning the wheels, starting with the top number
4. Release the bow and return it to its original position.

   Nothing complicated!

And also, try not to forget the code you installed. Let the combination of numbers be associated with something important, then you will definitely avoid unnecessary hassle! As a last resort, you can write down the lock code and hide it in a safe place.

Have a nice trip!

Today, in this material, you will learn how to change the code on the combination lock of the entrance door at the entrance. The topic will be supported by a specialist in opening doors without a key, Alexey. This is the only first-person report so far, but there will be others soon if the topic is relevant.

For those who think that this topic - How to change the code on a combination lock - is not fully covered or that something is unclear to someone, leave your questions and suggestions in the comments.

Alexey will definitely answer.

And so, hello dear visitors of the construction site umnyestroiteli.ru. My name is Alexey and today, as part of this article, I will try to explain how to change the code on a combination lock that was set at the very beginning by the door installer.

We will change the code on a push-button mechanical lock. Well, first, let's figure out why we need to change it.

Why change the code on a combination lock?

Typically, a combination lock is produced with standard settings.

The lock code consists of only two digits and at the first stage, it can be 38 or 78. But, good company, which provides services for installing front doors in entrances, changes this code to a more complex one. Which will have a three-digit digital code, which will be more difficult to pick up later!

In the second case, the code of the combination lock is changed after some time, since the buttons of the combination lock oxidize from constant touching and it becomes clear which buttons to press.

Well, an example of oxidized buttons of a combination lock is in the photo below.

This photo shows that the code on the combination lock of the front door is time to change! But when installing a combination lock on the back side of the front door, for the safety of dismantling the lock core, literally all specialists seal it with a metal sheet.

As in the photo below.



So, my dears, we will have to cut off this damper in order to change the notorious code.

How to change the code on a combination lock.

Let's take it apart first. On the back of the lock, there are four screws that need to be removed.



Having unscrewed these screws, the cover will automatically be removed, behind it will be the parts we need, which are called levers.

These levers move back and forth when the lock is pressed and there are limiters on them, in the first case these are cut off sides of the levers, in the second case these are holes in the top of the levers. They are in the photo below, highlighted orange.



These levers can be taken out of the lock and inserted back, turning them around in a mirror.

Well, a little more detailed.

In the first case, the levers have a recess that is turned away from the lock, and in the second case, the levers have cuts on their upper part, which in turn are also turned away from the lock. The first photo shows and highlights in orange those levers that currently set the code for the combination lock.

They need to be taken out and put in their normal position. After that, take out the levers that we need in the code and turn them in a mirror so that they look into the inside of the lock, and install them back.

In order to change the code, we just need to turn the levers we need into the inside of the lock, and turn the old ones so that they look outward!

Thanks everyone and good luck!

If you don’t understand the material, ask in the form of comments.

Well, lastly, something interesting.

http://www.umnyestroiteli.ru

Instructions for use

Have you bought a new suitcase with a combination lock and don't know how to set your combination correctly?

Don’t worry, every second traveler asks this question after making a purchase.

Let us immediately reassure you that there is nothing complicated in this procedure. A couple of minutes is enough, and your suitcase will become an impregnable fortress for everyone except its rightful owner.

For any model, the factory lock opening code is initially set to three zeros - “000”.


For fixed combination lock:

Important– do not press the button / change the position of the lever before you finish typing the numbers.

This may cause the wrong code to be installed.


For padlock combination:



Well, your personal code has been installed! Now the most important thing is to remember the saved combination of numbers!

Choose a number that you know you won't forget. These could be your birthday, postal code, or just your lucky number.

If you forget the set code, opening your suitcase can be a big problem.

You will either have to spend a long time and persistently trying out all possible numerical combinations, or take your suitcase to a warranty workshop and ask for help from specialists.

This is not so scary if you are just going on a trip. What if you are in another country and all your things are locked inside? It’s better to play it safe and write down the digital code, hiding it in a safe place.

“If you have one key in your pocket, that means your key to the apartment, and you are the big boss! If you have two keys on a ring, then you have an office, and you are an office worker! If you have three or more keys, then you are the warehouse manager!” Folk wisdom.

Carrying a large bunch of lock keys in your pocket is a big inconvenience. This is especially evident not in winter, but in summer. In that season when a person has less clothes, which means fewer pockets. And if the bunch of keys is large, then under its weight it can rub holes in your pockets. To prevent pockets from rubbing, various key holders are used, but key holders increase the size of the key ring, which not only causes inconvenience.

Protruding pockets look unsightly. Women are luckier in this regard than men, because they have “oversized” handbags. What can't you find there? To unload their pockets, men use purses.

But the purse also presents some inconvenience - one hand is constantly occupied with carrying it.

What to do if there are a lot of people working in the office space?

Go to the key keeper and do a large number of duplicates! There is another way: Install a combination lock on the front door.

There are a large number of mechanical combination locks sold in stores, but they have disadvantages. Push-button locks have a weak degree of security - the code is easy to select.

Locks with wheels are inconvenient to use - first you need to set all the wheels to the required numbers, open the lock, and then turn the wheels again to “knock down” the code combination.

The most convenient to use is an electronic combination lock.

There are many on the Internet different schemes combination locks, but after rummaging through the global network, I discovered that all combination lock schemes made on one or two microcircuits have poor security against hacking, which, provided the button panel is easily opened, can be opened using an ordinary machine, multimeter, or logic sample

Of course you can collect the simplest scheme, but it must come with a “cast iron” keypad so that the wires cannot be reached. I offer you a diagram of an electronic combination lock that does not need a “crackable only with an angle grinder” button panel. If they break anything, it's just the panel. But a cast iron panel can also be hit once with a heavy object, rendering it inoperable. During five years of operation, the proposed combination lock showed high reliability - it never broke and was highly burglar-resistant.

View of a combination lock with outside The doors you see in the photo are just a light button panel. A view of the combination lock from the inside of the door is shown below.

The proposed electronic combination lock is made on two CMOS chips 561LA7 and one 561LE5, has low power consumption from the network - about 2 milliamps on the secondary winding of the transformer in standby mode.

When powered by a battery, current consumption is measured in units of microamps. Thus, the combination lock is powered from the industrial network, and if it fails, from a 12-volt battery. If there is an industrial network of 220 volts, the battery is recharged, and in the absence of an industrial network, it serves as the power source for the lock.

The schematic diagram of an electronic combination lock is shown in the figure.



IN original condition the entire circuit, except for the power supplies, is de-energized. The unit, assembled on transistors VT1-VT3, is designed to supply power to the electronic code dialing unit for the limited time required to dial the code (about 10...15 seconds).

Power is supplied by pressing the “,” button. This button is not a code button. The purpose of limiting the power supply time is to ensure that the lock's electronic circuitry does not consume power during standby mode. Therefore, if you keep this button pressed, then the power on the circuit will be constantly present, and will disappear 15 seconds after releasing the “,” button.

The SA1 code dial is a button panel, located outside the lock and connected to the lock circuit using twelve thin stranded conductors.

The SR1 code setting panel is designed to set the lock code. The panel used for setting the fixed frequencies of the R-140 radio station, or the R-155 radio receiver, where special plugs are used. Perhaps, instead of the dial pad, use other switching methods.

After setting a certain code, the SR1 code installation panel is closed with a special lid and sealed with a mastic seal.

This way, when leaving the premises, you can check that no one snooped on your code. Otherwise, once you open the lid, you can quickly change it and reseal the lid.

The circuit diagram shows the setting of the lock code “3052”. In the photo of the panel it is “5491”.

As you understand, the dialing code is four-digit (not counting the power button “,”). The code is dialed by sequentially pressing the buttons. If the buttons are not pressed in the prescribed sequence, the lock will not open.

It is possible to simultaneously press all four code buttons, but in any case, the actuator will operate for a time limited by the charging time of capacitor C7, equal to 1 second. Capacitors C5-C6 limit the time required to dial the code.

If the code is not entered within 10 seconds, then the actuator will not work and the code must be entered again.

The circuit assembled on the elements of the D3 microcircuit is designed to prevent unauthorized selection of the lock code. When you press any of the six “wrong” buttons, the one-shot device D3.2-D3.3 blocks the code set and the actuator for 15 seconds. This time is determined by the ratings of elements C9 and R17 and the time of power supply from the power supply.

After this, to open the lock you must wait at least 15 seconds and enter the code correctly. If the “wrong” button is pressed again, the lock will be locked again for 15 seconds. If, during blocking, without waiting 15 seconds, the attacker supplies power to the lock with the “,” button, then the blocking will last for another 15 seconds. The self-locking unit greatly complicates attempts to guess the code.

In our case, on the typesetting field SR1 schematic diagram The “wrong” buttons are installed – 1, 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9.

In the case of a self-locking lock, there are no audible or visible signs, so the attacker does not know about it, which does not allow him to identify the “wrong” buttons. Determine that the combination lock has become self-locking by the presence or absence of voltage on the contacts of the opened dial pad by any electronic devices also impossible.

When the correct code is dialed, the executive contact group of relay P1 supplies power to the lock actuator (electromagnet or motor).

The power supply time is determined by capacitance C7 and is approximately 1 second. To adjust the power supply time to the executive relay manually (by the duration of pressing the last button of the set code), but no more than 2 seconds, it is necessary to disconnect resistor R12 from pin 4 of element D2.4, and connect it to the common wire of the circuit.

Electromechanical lock for a gate: guarantee of safety and comfort

561LA7 microcircuits are interchangeable with 176LA7, or an imported analog CD4011. The 561LE5 microcircuit is replaceable with 176LE5, or an imported analog CD4001. Transistors VT1-VT3 - type KT361, or KT3107 with any letter. Transistor VT4 - type KT315, or KT3105 with any letter. Transistor VT5 - type KT815 with any letter.

The secondary winding of transformer T1 is designed for 12 volts. Transformer T1 is selected with sufficient power to ensure operation of the actuator; any rectifier diodes VD3-VD7 must also provide sufficient load current for the actuator.

Diodes VD8-VD20 – any low-power pulsed ones. As a rechargeable battery, it is optimal to use a small-sized alkaline battery used in uninterruptible power supplies. The entire circuit, except for the digital dialer, actuator, battery and power transformer, is housed in a plastic case measuring 10x14 cm.

The combination lock can be used without a battery if it is used as part of a lock that can also be opened with a key. That's exactly what I did. The key to one of our working premises is in the janitor's tube. I and my colleagues don’t have a key on their keychain.

We open this room with a code, but if the light goes out, we take the key from the tube. To avoid running to the watchman in the absence of light after opening the room, the safe also contains a backup key.

As an actuator, I used a drive for unlocking and locking car door locks, hooking it on a chain to the flag of an ordinary rim lock, which “can” slam.

This lock, or a similar one, is sold at any hardware store, and the drive can be purchased at any automotive store. The housing of the electronic circuit of the lock is located on the inside of the door, directly next to the actuator.

The SA1 code dial is made from the keys of an old domestic calculator and is decoratively placed in a case made from a soap dish.

It is brought outside the lock from the outside of the door and connected to electronic circuit in such a way that eliminates the possibility of selecting the code by “electronic scanning”, or hacking using measuring equipment. This is explained by the fact that no matter what state the lock is in, all its contacts have the same potential. No attempts to dial or close contacts in search of a code lead to anything.

The circuit of the presented combination lock, like any other electronic locks, can be damaged by applying high voltage to the contacts of an opened keypad, but the lock will still not open.

Unfortunately, I cannot offer you a printed circuit board, because I made the castle ten years ago.

A rim lock, used in conjunction with an electronic combination lock, can be easily opened using a flat object inserted between the door and the jamb - a knife or a metal ruler.

Therefore, when installing such a lock, provide conditions under which this will be impossible - the door frame and the door itself must be strong, and the gap must be closed with a recess that prevents access to the lock tongue.

Any good owner takes care of his property, ensuring its independent protection from various criminal attacks. Today, “with the development of technology” for committing crimes, an ordinary mechanical lock has ceased to be a reliable barrier between your home and an intruder.

Such locks can be opened using an “intelligent” method in a few minutes, but, thank God, progress does not stand still and today the market offers us a wide selection of fairly reliable electromechanical locks. Such locking devices are good for everyone, except for the price, so craftsmen have long been wondering how to make a homemade electromechanical lock? In this article we will try to answer this question, simultaneously analyzing the motivation self-made similar locking device.

Why make an electromechanical lock yourself?

Reading this article, many may ask the question, why bother and try to make an electromechanical locking device with your own hands, when you can easily buy it in a store? Even if the price for it is not low, you can always save it up, put it aside, or take it in installments; it’s still better than, in the end, failing when trying to “rive together” something more or less working.

First of all, we should not discount the inquisitive mind of our Russian artisans, who may not really need the castle itself, but are simply interested in figuring it out and making it. The second point is the security we have already mentioned; any factory locking device has its own shortcomings, which an attacker may be aware of. Using this knowledge, the criminal will quickly deal with a fancy electromechanical lock bought in a store and take everything valuable out of the house.

Imagine if you manage to assemble a stable electromechanical device. Its main advantage will be that no one except you will know the features of its design, which means that an attacker simply will not take risks trying to open the lock. But even if you run into a super-professional thief who cannot be held back by any lock, even such a thief will still lose more time fiddling with opening a “homemade” device than if he were opening a factory device. In general, homemade locks have some advantages.

True, here it is necessary to make a reservation; a device made by hand must be made on the basis of a workable circuit and be tested repeatedly.

Which approach to choose when making a lock?

The appearance of your electromechanical lock will be largely influenced by the approach taken in its manufacture. There are two main approaches that craftsmen use when creating locks and their control systems.

1. The first approach involves the handicraft production of all elements of the security system, including the electromechanical locking device.
2. The second approach involves combining factory-made and home-made system elements, including a lock.

Experienced craftsmen advise using the second approach, since it is very difficult to make absolutely all the parts yourself, and there is no need. It is much easier and more effective to “improve” factory samples of locking devices by introducing your own “handicraft gadgets”.

It is extremely difficult to make an electromechanical lock “from scratch”, because in its design it contains elements whose production requires specialized equipment. However, no one forbids taking parts and components from other locking devices and making a hybrid unknown to any professional burglar.

Required tools and components

The composition of the necessary components and parts will largely depend on the complexity of the design of your electromechanical lock. In this paragraph, we will describe the most typical parts and tools that may be required for the manufacture of an electromechanical locking device and its control system. Let's start with the details.

• Circuit board and radio components according to the diagram. We will need them to make the lock control unit, although no one is stopping you from adapting a ready-made factory unit.
• Details of the security mechanism of the mechanical part of the lock (bolt, levers, springs).
• Ready-made lock case or materials for its manufacture. Naturally, the higher quality the materials, the better.
• A specialized electric drive for electromechanical locks or a standard drive for a car's central locking system.
• Small electric motor.
• Gears and rims.
• Drive spoke.
• A small metal rod with a handle that will be attached to the lock body and will become part of the electric strike, if of course you need one.
• A relay designed for a specific load, fasteners for a lock.
• 12 volt power supply and electrical wiring of the required length and cross-section. Experts recommend using multi-colored wiring in order to avoid mistakes when connecting all elements of the protective system.
• Control elements for an electromechanical lock, calling panel, handset or monitor for a video intercom.

It is not for nothing that we consider not only the details of the locking device itself, but also its control elements. Since installing only one electromechanical lock without connecting it to the network and auxiliary devices, means doing all the work in vain. In addition to parts and components, we will also need tools. It is also quite difficult to identify a complete list of them, so we will focus on typical ones.

1. Soldering iron, solder, side cutters, pliers.
2. A set of various screwdrivers.
3. Set of needle files and files.
4. Drill with drills for metal with a diameter of 1.5 to 15 mm. If you work with printed circuit board and parts, then thinner drills will be required.
5. Instruments for measuring voltage.

The process of self-manufacturing an electromechanical lock

To manufacture an electromechanical lock, we begin with the control unit. In this case, you need to either purchase a ready-made board for the control unit with the necessary parameters, or make it yourself according to the attached diagram (Figure 1).

We solder the necessary radio components to a specially prepared printed circuit board and put it aside for now. Now let's start making the lock body. Let us note right away that it is better to make the case in such a way that it fits both the control unit and the mechanical part of the lock, except in cases where the locking device is planned to be used outdoors.

The case is best made of metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The shape and size of the case will depend on the size of the components. Now you can proceed to installing the elements into the housing according to the diagram (Fig. 2). We will briefly describe the procedure for carrying out the work.

To summarize, we note that it is quite possible to make an electromechanical lock yourself. However, this requires a certain skill, desire and ability to handle tools. It is best to use ready-made components for electromechanical locking devices supplied by their manufacturers. In this case your homemade device It will be a little more expensive, but there is a greater chance that it will be reliable and work stably. Have fun crafting!

Electric lock with remote control on a door or gate: photo step-by-step production DIY crafts with your own hands.

Hello to all DIYers! In this article we will talk about a homemade lock that will be controlled using a remote control remote control, making such a lock is very simple, you don’t even need to solder almost anything.

DIY materials:

• - two 9 V batteries of the “crown” type.
• - connectors for batteries.
• - a small piece of plywood.
• -gear motor from China.
• -an ordinary medical syringe.
• -remote relay for 2 or 4 channels with a control panel (you can also order from China if this is not available, it costs around 200-500
• rubles
• -wires in rubber or silicone insulation.
• -metal nut.
• -long bolt for nut.
• -door latch.
• -self-hardening plastic for handicrafts (there are many types, you can buy them in China, but it’s also worth looking in handicraft stores in your city).

It is necessary to cut out the base for our lock from plywood, make it a size convenient for you, but so that all the electronics can fit on it. Then we take the “latch”, apply it to the plywood blank and mark with a pencil or marker the marks for the places where the “latch” is fastened:

Then we screw the “latch” to the plywood.

We take our wireless relay control module and remove it from its original box (if your relay did not come with a box for use, then make one yourself, to your taste and color), and then we check for functionality:

We install the relay on the “legs” intended for it and also fasten it using screws and a screwdriver:

Then we take self-hardening plastic, which, by the way, is very similar to plasticine and in its initial form the properties are very similar to it, thanks to this it can be turned into almost any shape using only your hands, which is very convenient. Following instructions of your plastic, form a small ring and apply it to the nut, as shown in the photo. Then we glue it to the handle of the “latch” with the same self-hardening plastic as shown in the photo, and wait required quantity time until the plastic hardens:

We take a long bolt under the nut and screw it into our workpiece, about a third:

Now you need to take a gear motor, it costs only about 60 rubles, and solder a couple of wires to its contacts, preferably of different colors, to prevent errors when connecting:

We glue the section from the syringe cap to the motor axis, and put the remaining half on the bolt as shown in the photo:

We are testing our mechanism for opening the “latch”.
We connect the gear motor to a power source, which in our case is a 9-volt power supply, after connection the motor begins to rotate the bolt around its axis, thereby unscrewing it from the nut, but since the bolt is stationary in the horizontal plane, the nut begins to move in the opposite direction of twisting and because of this the “latch” moves forward. If you swap the contacts (thus changing the polarity), the motor will start moving in the other direction and the “latch” will start moving back.
If you did everything correctly and everything works for you, then you can continue building:

It is necessary to connect all our external electronics to the module with the relay as shown in the photo below, blue and green wire These are the wires from the motor, and the red and black ones are the power wires. This module has clamps for connecting wires, which simplifies their connection, so take a screwdriver and start assembling:

Now our homemade electric door lock is ready and all that remains is to test it. To do this, we simply take the remote control from the module and press the button that is responsible for the relay, which starts the motor so that it screws the bolt into the nut, and then which is responsible for the relay that makes the motor rotate in the opposite direction. Thus, it turns out that one button on the remote control is responsible for opening the lock, and the second for closing it.