Foundation for a fireplace stove. Installation of a foundation for a fireplace - types, technology, features Foundation for fireplace stoves
Very often, potential buyers of fireplaces wonder: is it necessary to do something in the house for this fireplace? foundation. There are a great variety of fireplace models, including light and heavy hearths. For fireplaces whose weight is 350-500 kg, there is no need to create a foundation; this is not enough; such fireplaces can be installed even on the second floors of the building and subsequent ones, because such weight does not carry a significant load on the floors. It's another matter when the fireplace weighs about a ton. In this case, it is imperative to create a very strong separate foundation so that the fireplace lasts as long as possible and does not begin to sink into the ground.
Digging a pit
The construction of the foundation begins with digging a pit, the dimensions of which should be 10-15 cm larger than the foundation being laid. For a one-story house, the pit depth should be about 60 cm, for a two-story house 70-100 cm, or correspond to the value adopted when constructing the foundation of the building.
If the soil is not heaving, then a leveling cushion of sand is made at the bottom of the pit. For heaving soil, the cushion is made from a mixture of sand (40%) and gravel (60%). The anti-heaving cushion is placed in layers with constant moisture, compacted with a manual or automatic tamper, checking the horizontalness of the base using a level. The height of such a cushion should be similar to the height of the foundation of the building itself.
Before making a cushion, the bottom soil of the pit should be leveled and compacted. The cushion is placed on damp soil, and if suddenly it rains during the work and puddles form, they are scooped out, and the layer of earth, which has become fluid and plastic, is cut off to its original state. Usually the cutting height does not exceed a few centimeters.
If groundwater does not flow into the finished foundation pit and the walls do not crumble, then the foundation for the fireplace can be made of rubble concrete or brick.
Rubble concrete foundation
When building a fireplace rubble concrete foundation First you need to make the formwork. The inner walls of the formwork surface are sheathed with roofing felt or roofing felt, or coated with bitumen. This is done so that the laitance from the concrete mixture does not go into the sand. Next, the formwork is placed on the prepared base and the first layer of stones is laid in it. The stones must be at least 15 cm in diameter. The voids between the stones are filled with rubble. From above, all this is generously filled with cement mortar, consisting of 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Then prepare a creamy mixture of sand and cement with the addition of water. Water and cement are taken in equal parts. Rubble stone is poured with this mixture. The first layer of stone is poured on the first day, the second and all subsequent ones are poured at intervals of one day. Each new layer of rubble stone should be laid only after the previous layer has hardened. The last layer must be leveled and covered with polyethylene. The completed foundation should be 60-70 cm above the floor level. Laying a fireplace on a new foundation should begin no earlier than a week.
Concrete foundation
Construction of a fireplace concrete foundation start by preparing a mixture consisting of one part Portland cement and four parts sand and gravel mixture. Concrete is poured into the pit in two layers. Having poured the first portion, reinforcement is laid on it, covered with a small layer of concrete and compacted. The cell size of the reinforcing mesh should be 10-15 cm. Then the remaining part is poured. After about two days, the concrete has completely hardened and is ready to remove the formwork. In summer, stripping is carried out after 4-6 days, in winter after 8-12 days. After removing the formwork, it is recommended to water the concrete for a while to increase the quality of the concrete. Before starting work on the construction of a fireplace, you should inspect the foundation for defects. If defects in the form of small pores and cavities are detected, additional waterproofing is carried out. If there is no groundwater, then plastering or cementation is carried out, and then non-heaving soil is poured into the bosoms of the pit.When laying a deep foundation, four support piles should be driven into the pit, which are connected on top with a reinforced concrete screed. Piles can be made of reinforced concrete or asbestos-cement pipes, which are internally reinforced with metal rods and filled with concrete. Fireplace foundation It is imperative to make a high-quality one, otherwise in the future you will have to increase the cost of the fireplace, which may begin to settle and, as a result, cracks may appear, the facing tiles will fall off the portal and other troubles.
Installing a fireplace on a console
If there is no option to build a fireplace or stove on the foundation, and the ceilings are weak, then you can mount the structure on a console embedded in the load-bearing walls of the house. The matter is troublesome, but not hopeless. First you need to prepare two steel beams (brands, channels, pipes, rails), in general, anything of a sufficiently large cross-section (from 120 mm in height and more).
It is necessary to punch two holes in the load-bearing wall, 100-150 mm larger than the cross-section of the prepared beams. The beams are then inserted into the holes and concreted. An arch is laid between the beams, which serves as the base for the fireplace. It is not recommended to start laying the fireplace immediately after installing the consoles. Strength holding period is 28 days. It’s not necessary to wait that long, but you shouldn’t overload the seal for at least two weeks. The beams, of course, won’t fall out of the wall, but they can sag. The depth of the foundation depends on many factors: soil, location, climatic conditions (depth of soil freezing), etc.
Soil freezing depth
In central Russia, 1 meter of depth is usually sufficient for a foundation for a stove located inside a house. The depth of the foundation for a barbecue should be determined using the zoning map SNiP 2.01.01-82 “Building Climatology and Geophysics”.
Calculate soil freezing depth
Interactive table for calculating the depth of soil freezing in the following cities: Omsk, Novosibirsk, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk, Kurgan, Kustanai, Sverdlovsk, Chelyabinsk, Perm, Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg, Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk, Samara, Uralsk, Vologda , Kostroma, Penza, Saratov, Tver, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd, Guryev, Pskov, Smolensk, Kursk, Tallinn, Kharkov, Astrakhan, Riga, Minsk, Kyiv, Rostov-on-Don, Dnepropetrovsk, Frunze, Almaty , Kaliningrad, Lvov, Nikolaev, Chisinau, Odessa, Simferopol, Sevastopol.
Soil freezing calculator!
The foundation for a fireplace is one of the most important parts of a device for heating a cottage or private home. Professionals argue that the construction of a fireplace base should begin in parallel with the construction of the building, otherwise the construction process will be significantly complicated. Of course, it happens that a fireplace is purely decorative in interior design. In this case, a foundation may not be needed. But in the case of erecting a full-fledged structure in the medieval style, one cannot do without a strong foundation.
As a rule, the base for a fireplace is built from concrete mortar, rubble or brick that can withstand a humid environment. We must not forget that between the main foundation of the house and the base of the fireplace it is necessary to leave a gap, which should be more than 5 mm (sand is poured into it and compacted). It is strictly forbidden to connect these two structural elements due to uneven settlement. This can lead to distortions and cracks. In addition, the area of the base should be larger than the bottom of the stove (protrude 100 - 150 mm on all sides). The technology for constructing this type of foundation is identical to the construction of foundations for other structures.
The best option would be to include the installation of a fireplace in the work at the design stage of the house.
Then, during the construction of the main foundation, the foundation for the furnace is laid. Installing a fireplace foundation after the construction of the house is completed will cost a pretty penny, because it will be necessary to open the ceilings and floors. Without a sole, the structure will be unreliable (no one is immune from ground subsidence).
When starting construction, you should remember that the foundation for the fireplace and the walls experience different loads. This circumstance determines the need for their separate construction (different degrees of load - different shrinkage). When installing a fireplace-type stove in an already finished building, it is necessary to carefully select the installation location. In addition to considering general issues (heating efficiency, design, etc.), you should pay attention to the ease of installation of the structure. Moreover, the place for the fireplace should not violate the integrity of the load-bearing walls. Changing the design solution causes additional difficulties and entails material costs.
The following requirements apply to the design of the stove base:
- ideally, the depth of the foundation pit should be more than 0.5 m (depending on the soil);
- the area of the foundation must be larger than the area of the base of the fireplace;
- The depth of placement depends on the freezing index of the soil. It should be at least 20 cm larger.
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Stages of self-construction
When building the foundation, consider the types of soil.
At the first stage, you should find information about the soils contained on the site. When the soil is represented by clay deposits, it should be taken into account that with increased humidity the structure may tilt due to its weak ability to withstand heavy loads. When the soil consists primarily of sand, the pressure exerted by the structure will cause settlement. When the soil is rocky or the fireplace is supposed to be used continuously, you don’t have to think about the freezing depth. Constant use will prevent the soil from freezing.
After the soil analysis, they begin to prepare the necessary materials. Here you can get by with a simple set of materials:
- gravel;
- crushed stone;
- previously used broken brick;
- sand;
- cement.
The binder is concrete, which you can make yourself by taking sand and cement in a ratio of 6 to 1.
A pit is being dug. To do this, you must first mark the area. The bottom surface must be compacted, making it as even as possible.
Foundation laying begins:
- 1 layer. 0.2 - 0.25 m of crushed stone or fine gravel. All this is filled with solution;
- 2nd layer. Large stones in mortar with gaps of 4 - 6 cm. The remaining gaps are filled with gravel or crushed stone.
Broken bricks for foundation construction can be found in old abandoned construction sites.
The foundation construction technology requires strict adherence to the verticality and horizontality of all sides. This will help to avoid side loads and the sole will only experience the loads exerted by the weight of the fireplace. Incidental loads can lead to uneven subsidence of the soil and deformation or displacement of the foundation.
Concrete should be laid 0.15 m below the floor level. Subsequently, it will need to be leveled with a screed and the first layer of the fireplace arrangement must be laid. The base of the masonry, as a rule, is made in two rows with a waterproofing device. The waterproofing layer is laid in two rows. The result should be a structure that is flush with the subfloor. The lower part of the fuel chamber - the fireplace table - is placed on top of the brickwork.
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Rubble concrete base under the fireplace
Rubble concrete is perfect for the foundation for a furnace. One of the most important stages of work is the preparation of formwork. Formwork sheets are coated with bitumen in advance and lined with roofing felt or roofing felt. Such measures are necessary to ensure that milk (cement) does not seep into the pillow. The foundation for the fireplace is poured in layers.
To construct the foundation, you need to use a stone with a diameter of at least 15 cm.
- 1st layer - large stones with a diameter of less than 15 cm. The stones are not laid tightly. The remaining gaps are filled with crushed stone.
- A solution of sand and cement is poured onto this resulting layer, 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. It is better not to make a large amount of solution, only the required amount consumed per day.
- After this, the rubble concrete solution is prepared. It is prepared in the following proportions: 1 part water to 1 part cement. The result should be a suspension that resembles cream in thickness. The solution must be laid in layers, and experts advise doing one row per day. Of course, if specialized equipment is involved in the work, for example, a concrete mixer or mixer, then all the work can be done in one sitting.
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Reinforced concrete slab as a base
In order to make a concrete foundation for a fireplace, you will need:
- Portland cement;
- sand;
- crushed stone;
- reinforcement fittings;
- formwork panels;
- materials for waterproofing.
Stages of work.
It is imperative to reinforce the foundation so that it does not crack in the future.
- Preparation for concreting. A pit is being dug. Reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 100 - 150 mm is placed in it.
- The pit is filled with a solution made from 1 part cement and 4 parts gravel and sand. It is better to divide the filling into two stages. The concrete will harden in about 2 days.
- When work is carried out in the hot season, in order to avoid the harmful effects of sunlight, the concrete is covered with roofing felt.
- The quality characteristics of concrete can be improved by wetting the surface with water after dismantling the formwork. It is recommended to dismantle the formwork sheets after 5-7 days in summer and after 10-14 days in winter.
- If the concrete turns out to be defective, additional waterproofing measures are carried out. For this purpose, special formulations are used, the ingredients of which depend on the quantitative indicator of groundwater. In the case of a complete absence of groundwater in the soil, waterproofing can be done with sifted sand and cement, that is, make a sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 1 to 1, or 2 to 1.
- At the last stage, the pit is filled with non-heaving soil.
The base for the “decorative firebox” is mounted using various technologies. But if a fireplace is installed in a wooden house, then the issue of building a foundation for it requires special consideration, since many of the standard “projects” implemented in other houses are simply not suitable for such houses. Before you get acquainted in detail with all the features of this work, you need to understand a number of rules regarding wooden buildings.
First
The fireplace CANNOT be installed directly on the floor or ceiling (with rare exceptions). A common mistake is “if I took care of fire safety measures, then nothing will happen.” The point is not so much in the “flammability” of the log house, but in the strength of the structural elements. Even a small fireplace, given the materials used, has a large mass. Will the “flooring” hold up?
Second
Correspondence between the dimensions of the firebox and the room. A large fireplace installed in a small room will literally “dry” it. There is no need to explain what low humidity means, not only for the health of household members, but also for the service life of things and materials. For example, excessive shrinkage of wood leads to its deformation, including in the form of twisting. At joints, in places of other types of connections (fastenings), this will not have the best effect.
Third
In a room, the principle “where it is more convenient and beautiful” is not allowed. It is a source of open flame, and even a small draft can initiate the ignition of seemingly completely burnt fuel. What if the owners leave? Therefore, there is a ban on installing such “home fires” opposite the openings of windows and doors (after all, no one will constantly fill the firebox with water, just in case).
Fourth
Of all the known types of fireplaces, given the flammability of wood, the option of a free-standing structure is acceptable for a wooden house. But the feasibility of recommendations for arranging “hearths” attached to a wall or built into it raises serious doubts. Moreover, if it is meant “with your own hands”, and even without the proper experience. For example, how to properly install a chimney (which gets very hot) in a wooden wall? There are more than enough questions beyond that.
On a note! It makes no sense to describe in detail any one technology, since it is not a fact that it will be of interest to the reader. The author considers it more appropriate to highlight the general stages of work, and “what and how” to do specifically can be decided based on local conditions.
Features of foundation installation
Place
Something has already been said about this. It remains to clarify some points:
- The base for the fireplace must be separate. It is prohibited to use part of the foundation of the house itself for these purposes. This is due to the difference in load and further shrinkage of the structures.
- There must be a gap (minimum 50 mm) between the walls of the foundations (buildings and furnaces), which is filled with a loose mass (usually ASG). This provides “decoupling” of the bases, so the shrinkage of one does not affect the other.
Laying depth
As with all types of foundations, taking into account the depth of soil freezing. In some cases, it is possible to install a slab-type foundation (if groundwater comes close to the surface, if the soil is classified as problematic - clay, sandstone and a number of others).
The rule regarding depth can be neglected if, for example, the area of the house is large, it is occupied, and the owners permanently live in the building (that is, it is heated all season). This ensures that the soil under the building itself will not freeze as much. It turns out that there are several options, but the meaning is clear - to prevent the fireplace from sagging.
Base area
It should protrude beyond the perimeter of the firebox on all sides by at least 50 mm.
Foundation type
- the mass of the fireplace;
- soil characteristics;
- ease of excavation work (this is important for an already inhabited house).
Tape foundation
It makes sense to build a monolithic one (for example, reinforced concrete) for a massive fireplace. It is better to use this option - block.
A cheaper technology is to fill the prepared trench with natural stone, crushed stone or pebbles of large fractions, and lay brick on top (the figure explains everything well).
Explanation: floor level (1), brickwork (2), cut-off waterproofing (3).
Columnar foundation
There are also many nuances here. Which material to choose? Probably, such an option as in the figure is too expensive and labor-intensive.
Upper: position 5 – cut-off waterproofing.
Lower: pos. 3 – leveling layer; pos. 4 – reinforced concrete lintel (slab),
A more economical foundation is made of metal pipes into which the solution is poured. If it is being built during the construction of a house, then you can use ready-made reinforced concrete blocks. The ceiling is a reinforced concrete slab.
Brick monolith
Here is one of the options, although given the complexity of the work and the cost of materials, not everyone will choose it.
Materials
A few clarifications:
- For brickwork, it is recommended to prepare lime mortar. He is considered the best for this job. Preparation: dilute lime in water in a ratio of 1 to 3. The mixture is brought to the desired consistency by adding sand.
- All recessed parts of the base must be protected from liquids (vertical waterproofing). Most often, it is arranged by coating the surfaces with fatty clay, diluted to a thick sour cream. As a rule, this is enough for a fireplace, especially if the foundation of the house is a strip monolith.
- Even in the process of preparing the pit, clay is placed on the bottom and compacted. This creates the first layer of cut-off waterproofing, which protects the “cushion” under the masonry.
On a note! If the ceiling of the 1st floor of a wooden building is made of reinforced concrete slab (there is such an engineering solution), then the fireplace can be mounted directly on it.
A fireplace stove is an integral attribute of any private home or cottage. Often such equipment is installed in cases where there is no other source of heating, batteries or heaters in the premises. You can relax near the hearth, celebrate holidays and celebrations, enjoy dinner or lunch. But it should be remembered that the construction must be of sufficient quality, made of suitable materials and reliable.
Fireplace stoves for the home or cottage are designed to brighten up your holiday and heat the premises. However, such a heating unit had such meager and incomplete characteristics decades ago. Today, thanks to innovative and modern solutions, such fireboxes are not only full-fledged heating sources available to everyone, but also a decorative item. You can decorate the interior of a living room, dining room or bedroom with a fireplace in any style.
What functions does the fireplace have?
The first purpose of any fireplace and stove operating on solid fuel is the heating function. Such devices must heat all rooms in the house efficiently, evenly and quickly enough. However, if you have heating radiators and batteries, you can put the stove in a second place and use it as an additional source of heating.
Also, many devices, in addition to the heating function, are intended for cooking. Such fireboxes can be equipped with a hob for one or more burners, as well as an oven. Such stoves are a full-fledged stove and are quite capable of replacing it in the kitchen of the house.
Also, all modern fireplaces are an integral part of the decor; they have a unique lining of both the portal and the firebox. In addition, if it is impossible to install a wood-burning fireplace in the room, you can create an equally realistic and high-quality imitation, in which a real flame does not burn in the hearth.
Types of fireboxes
Before building a foundation for a fireplace, you need to familiarize yourself with the main types of heating equipment and their brief characteristics:
- The fireplace can be wall-mounted. Such lesions are often located near partitions, and can also be installed closely and screwed to them. Installation and installation can be carried out both at the stage of construction and repair, and after its completion;
- If you are just building a house or renovating a room, you may want to go with built-in stone. For it, it is necessary to prepare a niche suitable in shape, size and depth, and insulate it internally and externally. You need to prepare a niche only after purchasing the firebox in order to determine its exact dimensions;
- The largest and most interesting are freestanding or island fireplaces. Such structures are massive and bulky and require a lot of free space. They are not tied to a specific wall or partition.
Before building a foundation for a fireplace, it is necessary to develop a unique project. Also, to ensure that smoke does not occur in the room, combustion products and fuel decay do not enter, the draft operates at full power, and the walls and partitions do not heat up, it is necessary to leave appropriate and correctly calculated gaps between the firebox, portal and other structural elements in the room.
Dimensions and varieties
The strip foundation, just like any other, must have sufficient dimensions and exceed in this parameter the dimensions of the heating unit itself on all sides by an average of 500 centimeters or more to one and a half meters.
The depth of the foundation pit is determined in each case individually and depends on the weight and dimensions of the structure. The depth is also affected by the type of soil and the depth of its freezing.
If the house is one-story, the strip foundation will have a minimum depth of 500 centimeters. If the house consists of two floors, a pit with a minimum depth of 1 meter is dug under the strip foundation. The width of the pit depends on the fireplace and must also exceed the dimensions of the heating unit by at least 30 centimeters on each side.
A foundation, the construction of which is carried out according to certain rules for certain categories of heating equipment, may not be built at all. Most often, purchased steel and cast iron fireboxes weighing up to 500 kilograms are installed without a foundation. Due to their light weight, they can be placed even in multi-story buildings. The maximum that is required for their installation is strengthening the floor covering and sealing it.
It is necessary to pour the foundation for furnaces weighing more than 500 kilograms. In order for it to be as reliable, durable as possible, not to sag and not be afraid of moisture, the structure is completed 9-12 centimeters short of the floor level, after which several layers of roofing felt with bitumen are laid on top.
The foundation, the calculation of which is carried out individually, can be either massive, complex and full-fledged, or it can be classified as lightweight.
Lightweight foundation
The lightweight foundation is laid on a sand cushion. This option is suitable for non-heaving soil rocks. First of all, a pit with a depth of about one meter is dug. The first layer is sand, which is filled with water and compacted. Next, we repeat this procedure until there is a distance of about 300-500 millimeters to the floor level.
To give the foundation strength, crushed stone, broken stone or brick are used as the top and final layer.
Also, a foundation will be needed not only for buildings located inside an enclosed space, but also for outdoor buildings. Such outdoor stoves and fireplaces may have a slightly simplified design, and the chimney may be shorter or simply absent.
Since outdoor structures are exposed to the most adverse conditions all year round, to create the strongest, most stable and long-lasting foundation possible, you will need to invest in foundation blocks. With the help of this material, the surface is perfectly smooth, without much effort.
Pile foundation and connection to the floor
If the soil in your area is heaving, you may have to assemble a pile foundation. It is based on four piles, which have a reinforced concrete screed as a connection. Pipes can be reinforced concrete or reinforced at your discretion. The piles must be filled with concrete solution. Such a foundation can withstand a total load of up to 7 tons. It includes the weight of the foundation itself, equal to 1 ton, the heating unit itself and the chimney system, 4-5 tons.
The foundation, for which the formwork is performed to impart stability, can be assembled based on its type:
- For a wooden house, a foundation based on broken brick, small stone or gravel is suitable. The supports are installed in such a way that the distance between each of them is a small two bricks;
- For modern fireplace inserts, an excellent alternative would be to build a columnar foundation. It can be easily assembled both near the wall and in any corner of the room.
It is important that the base for the fireplace is strong enough. To do this, it is collected on the basis of concrete mortar, red stone and rubble stones. Due to the fact that the foundation of the house and the fireplace are two buildings not tied to each other, their shrinkage will also be completely different, which is natural and normal.
Between one foundation and another there should always be free space and a layer of sand equal to 6-10 centimeters.
The foundation, the reinforcement for which is selected based on its type, must be correctly connected to the floor. To do this, it is important to first purchase and prepare all the materials necessary for the work.
If you plan to fill the foundation with a concrete solution, it is important to prepare the correct and durable formwork for it and allow the solution to dry completely.
When is a foundation not needed?
Building a foundation for a stove or fireplace is a rather complex, lengthy and expensive process that requires experience and skills. Many people have probably been looking for ways to build a fireplace with real flames without a foundation. Thanks to modern developments and solutions, this is quite possible today. Stoves without a foundation are potbelly stoves.
Potbelly stoves are made of high-quality steel, which means they are lightweight and can be installed without a foundation. All you need is to seal and protect the walls and flooring.
To operate such a heating unit, depending on the chosen model, coal, wood or pellets are used. Thanks to a large, current and regularly updated range of models from domestic and foreign manufacturers, today you can buy a steel or cast iron stove in any price range.
Many fireplaces are equipped with doors made of transparent tempered glass to allow viewing of the burning fire. Also, some variations can replace a stove in the house, as they are equipped with burners and an oven.
A potbelly stove can consist of either a single firebox or be framed by a portal in a certain style. Fireplace models in classic, modern, loft, country and hi-tech styles are very popular. For cladding and assembling portals, marble, granite, natural and artificial stone, brick, metal and tiles are used.
Such modern fireboxes can have not only wall-mounted, island-mounted or built-in installations. There are corner fireplaces that do not take up much space. Hanging and mobile fireboxes with low weight and the ability to be transported are no less in demand.
Building a foundation for a fireplace stove is quite difficult and expensive. In some cases, if you do not have enough experience and skills, it is better to entrust its construction to an experienced craftsman. It will help not only with the construction of the foundation, but also with the design and placement of the furnace itself, will help save money, and make its use efficient.
In this video you can familiarize yourself with one of the options and lay the foundation for the fireplace with your own hands:
The foundation for a fireplace in a wooden house is created before laying the floor, which saves time, money and labor resources. The main criteria include strength and independence from the main foundation. The varieties include strip, column and slab structures.Installation of the base is provided for structures weighing over 500 kg. The presence of reinforcement depends on the characteristics of the soil and design parameters.
Use of materials:
- Concrete mixture.
- Rubble or crushed stone.
- Iron ore brick.
- Metal piles.
A gap of 5-5.5 cm thick is required between the foundations of the house and the hearth. At the end of the work, it is covered with sand and compacted. The lack of binding is due to different settlements, leading to further formation of cracks and distortions. The parameters of the base for the hearth are 10-15 cm larger than the dimensions of the structure itself. Its surface has an even position vertically and horizontally.
Construction stages
To accommodate the structure, a pit is created with parameters exceeding the size of the base itself by 15 cm. In a one-story house, its size will be 60 cm. In a two-story building, it will reach up to 70-100 cm.
Non-heaving soils will allow you to place sand backfill at the bottom of the pit. Heaving soils are supplemented with a gravel composition (40% sand fraction, 60% gravel). The depth of the pillow has parameters of 10-65 cm. This indicator is influenced by the load of the room and the degree of heaving of the soil. The pillow is laid in layers with compaction and watering.
Application of concrete
To create a concrete mixture, sand, gravel and Portland cement are used (4 parts of sand-gravel mixture are added to 1 part of concrete). The resulting mixture is poured in 2 additions. After the first filling of the solution, a reinforcing mesh with cells of 10-15 cm is placed. It is covered with concrete and compacted well. Then the rest of the part is filled. The top is leveled and compacted. The concrete will set in 3 days.
Attention! When constructing a foundation in the summer, the structure should be protected with roofing felt from exposure to sunlight.
Dismantling of the formwork in the summer is carried out after 5 days, in the cold season - after 10 days. The formation of defects in the form of pores or cavities indicates the creation of additional waterproofing. In the absence of groundwater, the surface can be plastered using cement mortar and fine sand (1:1). Then the hole is filled with non-heaving soil.
Increased strength of concrete can be obtained by frequent watering, especially after removing the formwork.
Application of rubble concrete
- At the first stages, formwork is erected, the internal partitions of which are finished with glassine or bitumen. This prevents the formation of cement laitance.
- The first masonry is made using large stones (section up to 15 cm). Between them there is space left to fill with crushed stone.
- The resulting structure can be filled with a cement-sand mixture created in proportions of 1:3.
- A creamy solution of cement and sand (2:1) will allow you to level the surface.
- The first layer is built in one go. All subsequent ones - with an interval of 24 hours.
Laying a brick foundation
Attention! While maintaining the vertical position of the walls, groundwater flow is excluded.
For the construction of such structures, water-resistant iron ore bricks are used. The construction of the masonry is carried out using a concrete mixture (proportions 1:3).
Due to the possibility of soil freezing, deformation of the brick structure occurs. The masonry is placed 20 cm below the freezing level. If the building is heated in winter, then this factor can be ignored.
Regardless of the type of base, its coating must be smooth and checked for horizontalness. The formwork does not reach the floor surface by 6-7 cm. 2 roofing felt sheets are used as surface waterproofing.
Shallow columnar foundation
- At the points where the pillars are placed, the top layer of soil (15-25 cm) is cut off.
- A sand cushion (10-15 cm) is created.
- A base plate with parameters 50x50 cm is placed;
- A pillar assembled from concrete blocks 30x30 or 20x40 cm is placed.
Recessed base
- At the points for placing the pillars, recesses with parameters of 20-30 cm are created.
- The resulting gaps are filled with sand.
- Formwork is installed from pipes protruding 40-50 cm above the ground;
- A frame made of reinforcement is placed.
- To reinforce vertical pillars, you will need reinforcement with a cross section of 1 cm.
- For horizontal piping, reinforcement with a cross section of 6 mm is used.
- Concrete is being filled.
- Protruding pipe elements are cut off.
- To tie one 20 cm post, you will need 2-4 rods with parameters equal to the height of the post.
- Vertical rods are placed at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
