Hyacinth planting and care. We create a spring flower bed by planting hyacinths in open ground. When to plant hyacinth

Hyacinth is a perennial bulbous plant popularly known as rain flower.

Place and soil for growing hyacinths

Choose a site for growing hyacinths that is well-lit and windless. You can plant it near shrubs or trees, but keep in mind that in the spring there will be enough sunlight for hyacinths, but if the nutrients are too close there is a problem, since trees and shrubs will pull them towards themselves. The area for hyacinths may have a slight slope so that the water does not stagnate on it, otherwise this may contribute to the occurrence of fungal diseases and rotting of the bulbs. Depth groundwater should not be less than 50-60 cm to the soil surface. Otherwise, or expanded clay drainage.

The soil for hyacinths needs light, permeable soil, with a good supply of nutrients. Fresh or slightly rotted manure is not suitable for fertilizing. For acidic soil required up to pH 6.5. Into tight clay soil add river sand and peat.

2 months before planting hyacinths in open ground (for middle zone this is the end of September - beginning of November) prepare the soil, this is required in order to prevent the roots from breaking off during possible subsidence of the soil. Under digging (40 cm), add humus per 1 square meter. m 10-15 kg, peat, sand, 60-80 g superphosphate, 30 g potassium sulfate (replacing 200 g wood ash), 15 g magnesium sulfate (replacing 250 g dolomite flour). If the soil is sandy, then increase the amount of potassium-magnesium fertilizers by 1.5 times. Apply nitrogen fertilizers in the spring. If humus or peat was not added when digging, then add it directly into the hole when planting.

Planting hyacinths earlier will cause growth that will prevent them from overwintering. When planting hyacinths in open ground later, the area must first be covered with leaves and protected from rain, and the cover must be returned after planting. For planting, select medium-sized bulbs; flower stalks will be more resistant to weather changes.

Large hyacinth bulbs (diameter about 5 cm) are planted to a depth of 15-18 cm from the bottom to the soil surface, at a distance of 15-20 cm in a row. Smaller bulbs are planted smaller and denser. Make holes or grooves, cover the bottom with a layer of about 5 cm of river sand. Press the bulbs into it, cover it with sand, then cover it with soil until the end. This planting is ideal for hyacinth, since in this case the sand acts as drainage, which will prevent the bulbs from rotting due to waterlogging and protect against infection. Plant in moist soil or water the plantings if the soil is dry.

If you grow hyacinths in open ground If you plan to do so in large quantities, we recommend planting on raised beds(15-20 cm) for easy care of hyacinths (easy to install shelter, quick soil warming in spring, protection from waterlogging and support for soil aeration). Make rows at a distance of 20-25 cm, plant the bulbs at a distance of at least three times the diameter of the bulb.

You can cover hyacinths in the garden before frost with dry peat, sawdust, spruce branches, and humus. In early spring, remove the cover, as flower sprouts appear very early.

For hyacinths, fertilizing is one of the main components when growing. In the spring, when most of the hyacinth sprouts appear in the open ground, apply mineral fertilizers (per 1 sq. m. 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride). When the buds begin to appear, add 1 sq. m 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride. Apply the third fertilizing at the end of flowering (40 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride per 1 sq. m, without ammonium nitrate). After each fertilizing, loosen the soil.

When fertilizers are applied in dry form, they are embedded in the soil, and when in liquid form, the hyacinths are first watered and the dose of fertilizers is reduced.

Hyacinth care

Hyacinths prefer clean, weed-free soil around them. Regularly loosen the soil, starting from the appearance of sprouts, observe air mode plants.

Hyacinths need to be watered abundantly to a depth of 15-20 cm, but not often. Monitor soil moisture, especially during budding.

You can grow hyacinths in pots in a trench, extending the flowering period.

The aroma of hyacinths can be heard already in mid-April, it is at this time that the flowers begin to bloom their inflorescences. If hyacinths are planted in a sunny area, they will bloom very quickly in a warm spring. If you plant hyacinths in a slightly shaded place, the flowering will last a little longer. You can grow hyacinths in pots and regulate the flowering period yourself.

Usually containers are used for planting flowers: pots, tubs, bowls, boxes, etc. All these containers with flowering plants can be placed on the windowsill, and in the spring they can be installed in the foreground of the garden, flower beds, “artificially” decorating your country landscape. will perfectly decorate any container, even a basket.

The period for planting hyacinths in pots in a trench is the same as for planting in open ground, i.e. approximately the month of October. Dig a trench in an open area to maximize the sun's rays in winter. Length and

the width of the trench depends on the size and number of containers, but the depth should be such that there is another 15 cm from the top edge of the containers to the ground surface. Having planted hyacinth bulbs in a pot, wrap it with something to protect the pot from dirt and hypothermia (even newspapers).
Place the hyacinth pots in the trench, lay down a layer of fallen leaves, cover with soil and lay down a layer of leaves again. This way you will protect the bulbs from the cold.

Flower hyacinth (lat. Hyacinthus), is a genus of bulbous perennials from the Asparagus family, although previously it was classified as a separate Hyacinth family or included in the Liliaceae family. From ancient Greek the name of the flower is translated as “flower of rains.” Hyacinth received its name in honor of the hero of the ancient Greek myth: in those distant times there lived a beautiful young man Hyacinth, the son of the king of Sparta, a young friend of the god Apollo, who often descended from heaven and taught Hyacinth to throw a discus. During one of the training sessions, Apollo threw a disk, and Hyacinth rushed after it to pick it up and bring it to Apollo, but the god of the West Wind, secretly in love with the prince, in a fit of jealousy, turned the flying disk so that it broke the young man’s head. Hyacinth was bleeding in the arms of his almighty friend, who could not save him... Heartbroken and filled with tenderness, Apollo created a flower of amazing beauty from Hyacinth’s blood and gave it the name of the dead young man...

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Planting and caring for hyacinths

  • Landing: The bulbs are planted in the ground in September-October.
  • Excavation: annually after the leaves turn yellow - in late June-early July.
  • Storage: in rooms with moderate humidity and good air circulation in boxes folded in two layers or in paper bags: 2 months at a temperature of 25˚C, then at 17˚C.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight.
  • The soil: permeable, fertilized, with a high content of humus, with a pH of at least 6.5.
  • Watering: during dry seasons, the soil should be wetted to a depth of 15-20 cm.
  • Feeding: 2-3 times per season: 1 time - at the beginning of growth with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer, 2 times - during budding and 3 times - after flowering with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
  • Reproduction: seed and vegetative - by children.
  • Pests: flower flies (hoverflies), aphids, thrips, root onion mites, stem and root-knot nematodes, mole crickets.
  • Diseases: penicillium rot, rhizoctonia blight, fusarium blight, yellow or soft bacterial rot, variegation.
  • Properties: all parts of hyacinth contain poisonous alkaloids.

Read more about growing hyacinths below.

Hyacinth flowers - description

Hyacinths are one of the earliest spring flowers. The homeland of hyacinths is the Middle East, North Africa and the Mediterranean, but Holland has done so much to popularize them that it can rightfully be called the world’s “hyacinth center.” The most a large number of varieties and varieties of hyacinths were created in the Netherlands, and every year millions of hyacinth bulbs are sent around the world from the Dutch city of Haarlem.

Dense hyacinth bulbs consist of succulent lower leaves, and the flowering stem (30 cm in height), which is a continuation of the bottom, dries out after flowering along with narrow, upward-directed leaves, sitting at the very bottom of the stem, but in the corner of the upper leaf, on the stem inside The bulb forms a bud, which gradually turns into a bulb that will bloom next year. In the corners of other leaves, weak bulbs, so-called children, are often also formed, which can be separated and used for vegetative propagation. Hyacinth flowers are collected in apical racemes in the shape of a cylinder or cone. The perianth of the flower is a brightly colored bell-shaped funnel with bent blades.

The hyacinth color shades represent a wide palette: white, red, pink, lilac, blue, pale yellow... According to the shape of the flowers, hyacinths are simple and double. The hyacinth fruit is three-lobed, each nest contains two seeds with a delicate peel.

See photos of hyacinth with the names of the species and variety

Growing hyacinths - features

Each plant has its own requirements in agricultural technology. The hyacinth flower is a capricious plant, and a gardener who decides to decorate his garden with these flowers must know how to properly care for hyacinths. For the hyacinth lover the following features you need to know:

  • the soil for hyacinths should be neutral and consist of equal parts of leaf and turf land with the addition of baking powder. If the soil on the site is acidic, it needs liming; sand will have to be added to clay soil;
  • good drainage is very important, because the hyacinth flower does not tolerate waterlogging;
  • lighting should be bright, but too much direct light sun rays hyacinths are poorly tolerated;
  • the site must be protected from strong winds, so many gardeners prefer to plant hyacinths near shrubs and trees;
  • do not use fresh organic matter as fertilizer for hyacinths.

Planting hyacinths in open ground

When to plant hyacinths

Hyacinths are planted in the ground at the end of September or beginning of October. If planted earlier, hyacinths may quickly begin to grow and die during the winter cold, and if planted later, hyacinths may not have time to take root before frost. You need to prepare the soil for planting hyacinths in advance: dig the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm, apply mineral fertilizers (approximately 70 g of superphosphate, 15 g of magnesium sulfate, 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m²), three to four-year-old humus or rotted compost at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m².

If necessary (depending on the composition of the soil), also add sand or peat.

If the soil is sandy, then the amount of magnesium and potassium fertilizers should be increased by one and a half times. It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers in spring and summer as top dressing.

Planting hyacinths in autumn

As already mentioned, you need to plant hyacinth flowers in open ground in September-October. Flower growers recommend choosing not very much for planting large bulbs, and the middle ones, the so-called flower beds, which will produce flower stalks more resistant to bad weather. The bulbs are sorted, soft, diseased and damaged are rejected. Before planting the bulbs, they are kept in a fungicide solution for half an hour.

The planting depth of hyacinth bulbs from the bottom is 15-18 cm (for bulbs with a diameter of approximately 5 cm), the distance between them is 15 cm, and between rows is 20 cm. Smaller bulbs and children are planted thicker and not so deep. The hyacinth flower grows well in open ground if you plant it in a “sand jacket”: pour a 3-5 cm thick layer of clean river sand into the bottom of the hole or furrow, lightly press the bulb into it, cover it with sand, and then with soil. This method of planting does not allow water to stagnate in the soil, therefore the risk of bulb rotting is reduced. After planting the bulbs, if the soil is dry, water the area.

Planting hyacinths in spring

The hyacinth flower is not planted in spring.

Caring for hyacinths in the open ground

How to care for hyacinths in the garden

So, how to care for hyacinth? Caring for hyacinths is not difficult, but the requirements for agricultural technology must be strictly followed. Firstly, hyacinth is clean, so weed control in an area with hyacinths - a mandatory rule. In addition, the plant needs constant loosening of the soil. If you want to make your work easier and at the same time protect the soil from drying out, and the hyacinth from weeds and diseases, mulch the soil after planting. Concerning glaze, then it is necessary in dry seasons: the earthen lump should get wet 15-20 cm deep.

In the photo: Growing hyacinths in a flower bed

Caring for hyacinth also includes mandatory feeding. Feeding hyacinths carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. Fertilizers are applied both in dry form and in the form of solutions, but slightly less fertilizer is put into the solution than with dry fertilizing, and the soil is watered before liquid fertilizing. Dry fertilizers are scattered over the ground and then incorporated into the soil with a hoe.

How and when to plant tulips, and what to do next

The first time fertilizers are applied at the very beginning of growth (15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of nitrate per 1 m²), the second time they are fed during the budding period (15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 30-35 g of superphosphate), the third feeding is done when the flowering of hyacinths is completed (30-35 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate).

Transplanting hyacinths

Replanting hyacinth flowers is simple: in the summer you dig up the hyacinth bulbs after flowering, store them until autumn, and in the fall you transplant them to another place. When to dig up hyacinths? About two months after the end of flowering, when the bulbs have regained their strength after this year's growing season.

Propagation of hyacinths

Hyacinths are propagated by baby bulbs and seeds. For those involved in plant breeding, the seed method is more suitable than others: in the fall, at the end of September, the seeds are sown in boxes with soil consisting of sand in a 1:1:2 ratio, leaf soil and humus, and are grown for two years in a cold greenhouse, but seedlings almost never repeat the characteristics of the parent plants, so amateur gardeners prefer the vegetative method of propagation.

Planting and caring for crocuses in the garden - detailed instructions

True, the growth of children in hyacinth bulbs occurs slowly: every year 1-3 children grow. If they are easily separated from the mother bulb, they are planted and grown, and if the children are not separated, then the mother bulb is planted along with the children.

In the photo: Flowering hyacinths in the open ground

In industrial floriculture they use such artificial methods reproduction, such as cutting and incising the bottom: with a sharp sterile instrument, cuts are made on the bottom or it is completely cut out so that during further storage in a special way, the bulbs will form new children. Sometimes the result is stunning - up to forty children on one bulb. If you are interested in these methods, you can learn about them in detail in the book “Plant Reproduction” by F. MacMillan Brose.

Diseases and pests of hyacinths

Hyacinth flowers do not suffer from excessive pain, but if something bad happens and they get sick, here is a list of reasons:

  • purchasing already infected planting material;
  • too heavy acidic soil;
  • you used fresh organic matter as fertilizer;
  • unfavorable predecessors;
  • looked at the spoiled onion during culling;
  • neglected preventive disinfection of bulbs before planting;
  • hyacinths were planted very densely.

Yellow hyacinths are most often affected. bacterial rot(a bacterial disease) that turns the bulbs into foul-smelling mucus. The first symptoms are stunted growth, spots and stripes on the peduncle and leaves. Affected plants should be dug up and burned, and the hole should be etched with bleach.

Penicillium rot(fungal disease) is expressed in the fact that all above-ground parts are covered with plaque (a product of fungal sporulation) and rot, the flowers dry out. They fight the fungus by spraying with copper-containing preparations.

In the photo: How hyacinths bloom in spring

Pests that cause trouble for hyacinths flower flies, whose larvae eat the bottom of the bulb. They are destroyed with the drugs Muhoed, Aktara, Tabazol.

The mole cricket, which feeds on the underground organs of plants, also causes harm, as well as the root onion mite, and the best remedy combat them - mulching the soil.

Sometimes this happens with hyacinths: the inflorescence, not having time to emerge from the rosette, falls out of it. The reason for this phenomenon is not a disease, but excess moisture in the soil, planting too early or storage at too low a temperature.

Hyacinths have faded - what to do?

Caring for hyacinths after flowering consists of giving their bulbs the opportunity to regain their strength. To do this, they must remain in the ground for some time. How to care for fading hyacinths? You just need to gradually reduce watering until it stops completely. In addition, during this period there is a third fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, which will add nutrients to the bulbs for flowering next year. When it's time to dig up hyacinths after flowering, their yellowed leaves will tell you.

In the photo: Growing hyacinths

Digging up hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs should be dig annually, otherwise next year the flowering may be much poorer, in addition, the risk of bulb disease increases. Annual digging also allows you to monitor the condition of the bulbs and timely separation of the children for growing.

Don't wait until the leaves die and fall off because it will be difficult to locate the bulb later.

Dig the bulbs with a shovel, since they sit quite deep in the ground, wash them in running water, pickle them for half an hour in a three to four percent solution of Karbofos or keep them for 10 minutes in water heated to 50 ºC. Then they are ventilated and dried in a dark place at 20 ºC for a week.

Planting hyacinths for forcing - what and how

The most crucial period begins, since at this time an inflorescence is formed in the bulb. The dried bulbs are cleaned of any remaining roots and scales, divided into sections and placed in boxes, preferably in one layer. It is better not to separate a small child. If there are not very many bulbs, they can be stored in paper bags with labeled labels attached to them.

In the photo: Germinating hyacinths in the refrigerator

Storage is carried out in two stages: the first two months the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25-26 ºC, and the third - at 17 ºC with not very low air humidity so that the bulbs do not dry out. You can shorten the first stage by a week by creating a temperature of 30 ºC during the first seven days of storage. The room should be well ventilated. And before autumn planting, it would be a good idea to keep the bulbs for a week at a temperature close to that in the garden. During storage, the bulbs often form many small children, so be very careful when planting them in the ground in the fall.

Types and varieties of hyacinths

Hyacinths have been grown at home and in gardens for about 400 years, and until recently it was believed that there are about 30 species and 500 varieties of hyacinths. But after the reorganization of classifications in botany, most of the species were transferred to another genus. Now only three types of hyacinths are classified: oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), Litvinov's hyacinth (Hyacinthus litwinowii) And Transcaspian hyacinth (Hyacinthus transcaspicus)- these species are the basis for the cultivation of countless varieties and varieties of plants. Hyacinth varieties are divided by flower shape (simple and double), by flowering time (early, middle and late) and flower color. In the classification of flower color, hyacinths are divided into six groups:

Blue hyacinths

  • Perle Brillante– late hyacinth is pale blue, height – 25 cm, blooms for up to three weeks;
  • Marie– an early variety of dark blue color with a purple longitudinal stripe blooms for 16-18 days;
  • Queen of the Blues– a medium-flowering variety, light blue in color with a weak aroma, height – 30 cm, blooms for up to two weeks;

In the photo: blue hyacinth Blue Jacket

Lilac hyacinths

  • Blue Magic– medium-flowering purple-colored variety purple 25 cm high, blooms 10-12 days;
  • Indigo King– a late variety of black-violet color, shiny flowers, arrow height 15-17 cm, blooms for two weeks;
  • Bismarck– early variety, pale purple flowers with a brighter longitudinal stripe, height – 22-25 cm, blooms for two weeks;

Hyacinth is a decorative bulbous crop. It belongs to the Asparagus family. The crop is called the “flower of rain” because it begins to bloom in the spring with the first rains. Hyacinth is garden plant, however, it can also be grown in room conditions with proper care, and plant in open ground.

Many people plant this plant on their windowsills, wanting to enjoy the beautiful blooms already in winter time. However, in order to grow hyacinth at home, it is necessary to create conditions close to garden.

This culture is very common in floriculture due to early spring flowering and spectacular decorative qualities.

In order for a flower to grow healthy and delight the eye with its beautiful blooms, it is necessary to plant it correctly and on time.

When to plant

If you plant the bulbs too early, the plant may die during the winter cold, and if you plant it later, it may not have time to take root before the onset of frost.

How to plant and what is needed for planting in open ground

It is advisable to choose a place that is flat or with a slight slope so that moisture does not stagnate in the soil.

  • Superphosphate;
  • Potassium fertilizer;
  • Magnesium sulfate;
  • Humus;
  • Compost;
  • Sand and peat depending on the soil.

If the soil is sandy, then more potassium and magnesium fertilizers are required.

Bulbs are planted to a depth of about 15 cm. The distance between them should be at least 15 cm. If the bulb is too shallow, then it is recommended to plant it at a shallower depth.


How to plant hyacinth at home

To plant at home you will need:

  • Pick up a pot;
  • Prepare the substrate.

You need to take the potty shallow but wide enough. Drain holes are required on its bottom.

The soil can be purchased ready-made at specialized flower shops, or you can prepare it yourself. For preparation you will need the following components:

  • Turf;
  • Compost or humus;
  • Leaf soil.

These ingredients are taken in equal parts. It will also not be superfluous adding sand and peat.

To plant a crop indoors, you will need:

  1. At the bottom of the container make high-quality drainage layer. For these purposes, you can use small pebbles and expanded clay;
  2. Lay out a thin layer of substrate;
  3. Cover with sand;
  4. On the sand place the onion. You can have several at once to ensure abundant flowering, but you need to maintain a distance of about 3 cm between the bulbs and the walls of the pot;
  5. Deepen the bulbs slightly and pour the remaining substrate on top;
  6. The substrate needs to be sprinkled with a little sand to prevent rotting.

Planting in autumn

As already mentioned, plant planting material in open ground on a garden plot necessary in autumn period . This crop is not planted in spring.


When planted at the optimal time, the bulb will have time to take root before winter and will not die from winter frosts.

When frost occurs, it is advisable to cover the plantings so that they do not freeze. Sawdust, dry fallen leaves or spruce branches are suitable as covering materials.

Soil before planting need a good dig. It should be remembered that hyacinth does not tolerate too acidic substrates. Therefore, it is recommended to add lime to such soil. Hyacinth also does not like stagnant moisture. Stagnation of moisture leads to rotting. Therefore, the soil needs to be drained and permeable.

Features of planting material and further care

Bulb requirements

When purchasing, it is recommended to carefully inspect the bulb. She should not be sick, there should not be any damage on her. Its surface should be smooth, and it itself should be elastic. The shoulders and neck should be clearly visible.

The color of the bulb scales most often matches the color of the hyacinth inflorescences.


Size is not at all an indicator of its quality, but a good bulb should have a diameter of about 5 cm.

It is important to know that in order to land on garden plot It is recommended to select a medium diameter. Such bulbs are called “flower bulbs”. And for planting indoors and for forcing, it is recommended to take larger specimens.

Treatment

Before planting the bulb, it needs to be processed.

To do this, use a fungicide solution or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. It is recommended to soak in the solution for half an hour. This is necessary for disinfection.


At what depth to plant

How larger the size of the bulbs, the to great depth they need to be planted. For a bulb with a diameter of about 5 cm, a depth of 15-18 cm is suitable. For smaller specimens, a shallower depth should be made.

When planting at home, the upper part of the bulb must be left above the ground surface.

Forcing

Since hyacinths are often used to make bouquets, forcing of these crops is very common.

Depending on the date by which hyacinths should bloom, it happens:

  • Early;
  • Average;
  • Later.

With early forcing, it is necessary to plant the crop in October so that the plant begins to bloom before the onset of the new year. With medium bulbs, the bulbs are planted in November, and with late bulbs - in December.


On average, about 3 months pass between planting and the beginning of flowering.

In order for the plant to bloom successfully in the future, the bulb must go through a number of stages with a gradual decrease in the temperature of its content. After digging, they must be kept at air temperature about 30 degrees for 2 weeks. The air should have high humidity.

Then the temperature of the planting material content reduced to 22. In such conditions it is also stored for 2 weeks. Then the temperature is lowered up to 15 degrees also for two weeks.

Now the bulb is ready to be planted in the substrate.

Also it is possible to drive them out in water. To do this, small pebbles or sand are placed at the bottom of the container. And then water is poured into the container. It is advisable to take melted snow or rainwater. Then the onion is placed in the neck of the bottle so that the distance between its lower part and the water is about 2 mm.

The top needs to be covered with dark-colored paper, and the vessel should be placed in a place where the temperature is no higher than 10 degrees and there is no light. After about 10 weeks, sprouts will appear. Then the paper is removed and the vessel is placed in a sunny and warm place.

Care after flowering

After the hyacinth has faded, it is necessary to remove the flower stalks by pruning.

Wherein It is not recommended to stop watering and fertilizing until all the leaves wither. At the end of flowering, a period of restoration of the bulbs occurs.

The plant is taken out of the soil and the wilted leaves are removed. If the bulb has already developed children, then they can be separated and later used for propagation of the crop. The bulbs are dried for several days in a warm and dry place.

In order to later obtain bulbs that are suitable for forcing, hyacinth no need to let it bloom in open ground. To do this, the flower stalks are removed. At the same time, the bulbs become larger, and with the onset of autumn they are dug up and subject to the procedures that are necessary before successful forcing.

Thus, hyacinth is very beautiful ornamental plant, which can be grown both on a personal plot and indoors. Forcing hyacinths is very common. In order for the cultivation of a crop to be successful, it is necessary to select the right planting material and plant it in compliance with all the characteristics.

Forcing is purely garden flower requires hyacinth providing him with conditions close to those on the streets. The key to success is the selection of a healthy, dense, mature bulb of five centimeters in diameter, as well as knowledge of how to plant hyacinth in a pot at home.

The size of the planting material for this flower determines success. Because only from a large one can you get a full-fledged plant.

The external condition of the bulb is also an important factor. It should be free of rotting elements, mechanical damage, and dense to the touch.

To get a good, bright flower, you need to provide proper storage bulbs. It needs to be dug up at the end of June and placed in a damp, warm room. Storage temperature during the rest period is 27-30 degrees. The bulb should remain in such conditions for 14 days.

After this, it is moved to a cool room, 22-24 degrees, for 2 weeks, and then the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees. All these resettlement activities are important stages When preparing hyacinths for forcing a flower, carefully study all the information on how to plant hyacinths in a pot at home, then the flowers will delight you with blooming for more than one season.

IMPORTANT!
Bulbs purchased in a store have already gone through these stages of preparation, so such manipulations are not required for them. You just need to save them until planting.

You can find out more about how to propagate and grow hyacinths at home.

Planting and care at home

How to plant hyacinth in a pot at home? The plant must be planted in shallow, wide pot. The soil for planting is ready-made, special for planting bulbs. If purchase is not possible, turf, leaf soil and compost are mixed in equal quantities. To loosen the composition, add half a part of sand or peat.

Before planting, a layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the pot. A layer of sand and soil mixture is poured onto it. Then the bulbs are laid closely together. One to three bulbs can be placed in one pot.

IMPORTANT!
The bulbs should not touch each other or the edge of the dish.

Hyacinths are sprinkled with soil in such a way so that the tops of their heads remain open. After planting, conditions are created for them to rest in the coolest and darkest room possible. Ideal conditions are storage in a cellar or basement. If you don't have them, find a cool place in your apartment and cover the pots with a dark cloth or opaque cover.

ADVICE!
You can place containers with plantings under balcony door or in the vegetable container in the refrigerator.

About 2.5 months your hyacinths will be dormant and getting ready to bloom. During this time they should take root as much as possible.

Hyacinths are planted not only at home, but also outside. You can find out more about planting and caring for hyacinth in open ground.

When to plant at home?

The time when to plant hyacinths in a pot at home plays a big role in forcing the plant and it depends on what time you want to get flowers. It is important consider what type of hyacinth you purchased. Early varieties They are planted in early October, and a flower is obtained from them by December.

For flowering in February, varieties with average flowering periods are selected. They land at the end of October. Late varieties, when planting hyacinth in a pot at the end of December, bloom in late March-early April.

The process of forcing flower stalks

After a two-month period of dormancy, hyacinths settle into spring. They are placed in a warm, bright place and begin to water. The soil should be slightly moist, but not wet. Stagnation of water is detrimental to the bulbs; they can rot.

How to force a flower in water?

Feature of this flower is the possibility of obtaining a full-fledged flower in conditions complete absence soil. The distillation can be done in water, filling the bulb halfway. The entire procedure for preparing to obtain a flower is carried out in the same way as in the case with soil.

At the end of the cooling period, the bulbs placed in a warm place, but continue to protect them from light. As soon as the sprouts reach a length of 10 centimeters, the bulbs are exposed to light. Add mineral fertilizers to the water, this will speed up the process of forcing the flower.

IMPORTANT!
The bulb should be placed in water so that it only touches the water with its roots, the rest of it should be on the surface.

The process of planting and transplanting hyacinth indoors into a pot requires strict adherence to the rules, as well as knowledge of how to care for them. Only in this case can you get beautiful, bright flower at the required time.

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Stately and spectacular hyacinth is a real decoration of the garden. in early spring. Appearing one of the first in the flowerbed, when there is still snow in places, it delights those around with large and fragrant flowers of the most diverse range of shades and shapes. Such splendor on a miniature scale can easily be repeated in winter, delighting yourself, your loved ones and friends with a magnificent gift for the New Year or Christmas. About how to force a plant at home - recommendations in our article.

Hyacinth: botanical description

Hyacinth is a genus belonging to the Asparagus family and includes only three species. They all have a distinctive appearance and fragrant flowers. The plant's bulb is dense, consisting of fleshy leaves, the bases of which occupy the entire circumference of the bottom. The stem is thick and dense, with an inflorescence at the top. After flowering ends, it dies off along with the leaves along with it. Very fragrant flowers are collected in a raceme, the perianth is brightly colored, in the form of a bell-shaped funnel with bent blades. The fruit is a three-lobed capsule. Three species are known: Hyacinthus transcaspicus, Litvinova and eastern. The most common and famous is the latter, which has become the basis for the development of many varieties and hybrids. It is possible to care and plant hyacinth at home in a pot or in open ground.

Eastern hyacinth: description

It is considered to be the type species of the genus, that is, acting as a nomenclature species. If any controversial situation he acts as the sole bearer of the generic name from an objective point of view. The plant's homeland is the Mediterranean and, however, currently it is cultivated everywhere not only for decorative purposes, but also for medicinal purposes. The plant is perennial, bulbous, up to 30 cm high and stele up to 0.5 cm thick, the leaves are fleshy, linear, and have a bell-shaped flower. at home it is quite simple to care for; it blooms in early spring and is one of the first in the garden. It became especially popular in culture in the 15th century in Europe; since then, more than three hundred high-quality and proven varieties have been bred. The Netherlands, especially the Haarlem region, is famous for the cultivation of hyacinths, from which millions of bulbs of these flowers are supplied to the world market every year.

Popular varieties

It is difficult to say in a few sentences about the huge range of hyacinth varieties. When choosing one of them for your home or garden, pay attention to the manufacturer, seller, as well as botanical characteristics (height, flowering time, suitability for forcing, etc.). Planting and caring for hyacinths at home involves choosing a specific hybrid. We offer a conditional division of varieties according to flower color.

  • White: Argentina Arendsen (up to 28 cm, individual flower diameter up to 4 cm), L'Innosance (an early ancient variety created in Holland in 1863, height up to 26 cm), Carnegie (medium-sized - up to 22 cm, cylindrical inflorescence ), Edelweiss (medium early, up to 25 cm, with a wide brush).
  • Pink: Anna Marie (late, up to 25 cm high), Fondant (industrial variety with large 20 cm inflorescences, photo above), Pink Pearl (early, cone-shaped inflorescence with characteristic long bracts), China Pink, Marconi.
  • Blue: King of the Blues (old Dutch variety 1865, late, pictured below), Delft Blue (up to 20 cm, suitable for forcing, long flowering period), Maria (up to 25 cm, deep blue, one of the most common hybrids), Myosotis (early, pale blue).
  • Purple: Amethyst (short flowering period, unpretentious, pale lilac hue, height up to 25 cm), Bismarck (early, up to 30 cm light purple inflorescence, ideal for forcing and cutting), Menelik (purple-black, compact, late) .
  • Yellow: City of Haarlem, Orange Boven, Yellow Hammer.

Lush, spectacular flowering, bright colors and a unique thick and rich aroma - these are the main reasons why it is in a pot. Care at home is quite simple, but requires forcing, which results in some peculiarities. As a rule, people try to get a flowering plant for a certain holiday: New Year, March 8, etc.

What is forcing?

This process involves comprehensive measures to accelerate plant growth. It is widely used in greenhouse cultivation and floriculture. The plant is placed in conditions with elevated temperatures environment, humidity and additionally illuminated, thereby stimulating them to active development, flowering and fruiting. This is how tulips, daffodils, lilies and hyacinth are grown in a pot at home. How to preserve the plant after such a procedure, read further in the text.

Selection of bulbs

In essence, forcing mobilizes all the forces of the plant and allows you to get beautiful flowers in a short time. Only healthy and strong specimens can withstand this. Choose high-quality planting material, large, dense bulbs without damage, grown in open ground. Pay attention to the weight; it should not be too light and give the impression of emptiness inside. In addition, as mentioned above, it makes sense to pay attention to the variety; there are hybrids specifically designed for forcing.

Preparing bulbs for planting

The preparation of hyacinth bulbs begins in the summer, at the moment when you decide that you will grow hyacinth in a pot (home care - below). As soon as the foliage withers, the planting material must be dug up and washed in warm water and dry in a draft in a shady place, and then store in a cool and dry basement or cellar. Experienced flower growers know one secret. As soon as hyacinth flower stalks appear in the flowerbed in the spring, they notice the largest and most powerful ones, but they are not allowed to bloom and are cut off. This allows the plant to devote all its strength to the development of the bulb, which can then be successfully driven out in the winter.

Landing dates

The timing of planting bulbs in the ground depends directly on when exactly you want to get blooming hyacinths on your window. Care and cultivation at home in the future are quite simple; it is important to do everything correctly at the initial stage. Cooling period for distillation in early dates is 10-13 weeks, for late varieties it increases to 12-16. The start date can be set as follows. Determine the day when you need to get the flower and subtract the number of established weeks from it in reverse order, plus another 3-4 for growth for early and late varieties, respectively.

In order to strengthen the immune system, the bulbs should be placed for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or the drug “Hom” (concentration - 4 g per 1 liter of water) before planting.

Planting bulbs

In accordance with the planned flowering time in the fall, soil bulbs should be planted in soil (purchased or prepared independently). Use individual pots or group planting - depending on your own preferences. Hyacinth in a pot requires minimal care at home, but its flowering is magnificent. Fill the pots with soil almost to the top, then plant the bulb so that its top is level with the edges of the container. When planting in groups, maintain a distance of 2.5-3 cm. Cover the top of the pot with dark polyethylene, making holes for ventilation. Move the plants to a dark and cool place for a set period of time; the temperature should be between 5-8°C.

As the earthen ball dries, lightly moisten it; the soil should be slightly moist. During this time, small sprouts appear on the hyacinth; when they reach 3-5 cm in height, the plants should be brought into the house. The initial temperature should not exceed 12°C; choose a shaded place for a few days, and then move them closer to the window (but not to radiators). The pot is placed in a permanent place at the moment when buds appear on the plant.

Hyacinth in a pot: care at home during flowering

In order for a plant to please you with beautiful flowering, it needs to be provided with stable conditions. After the buds appear, the pot with hyacinth is moved to a permanent bright place, protected from drafts. The temperature should be between 15-20°C, keep the soil constantly moist, not allowing it to dry out. Carry out one-time feeding with complex mineral fertilizer, strictly observing the dosage and concentration indicated on the package.

What to do with the bulb after flowering?

The hyacinth bulb used for forcing cannot be reused. However, you can plant it in open ground in a flower bed in the garden, where it will delight you with natural flowering in early spring. After the forcing is completed and desired result received, leave the bulb in the ground - this is necessary in order to preserve the flower. Hyacinth care in a pot at home requires the same care as in the ground. Continue watering the plant and feeding it with fertilizer until the leaves begin to wilt. Once they are dry, carefully separate them. Remove the bulb from the ground, dry it and store it in a cool and dry place. Plant in the ground in late autumn: in the middle or end of October, when the soil temperature drops to 5-10°C. Thus, the hyacinth will have time to take root before severe cold weather.

Remember that the plant prefers a sunny and open place, perhaps with light shade, protected from wind and excess moisture. The soil is recommended to be loose, containing sand, humus, and having good moisture permeability.