home metal

Clay guitar. Modeling. how to make a polymer clay guitar. Choosing wood for making a guitar

Original master class how to make a guitar figurine polymer clay.

We will need:

Plastics: gold, mother-of-pearl and bronze Fimo, a little black and the rest of any color, to fill the guitar drum.
Utility knife (I use two different sizes).
Some kind of device with a ball at the end (I blinded it on a toothpick and baked it).
Guitar drum template (cut out of cardboard)
Medical gloves.
Wire.
Round nose pliers, thin nose pliers and wire cutters.
Tweezers.

Not in the photo, but two rolling pins are absolutely necessary: glass bottles, large and small.

We imitate a tree from golden and mother-of-pearl Fimo, for this we will act as if we are going to make a smooth color transition manually:
Fold the triangles into a square, as shown in the figure.

Let's cut it into several strips, so that each of them has a different ratio of mother-of-pearl and gold.
Now you need to mix each strip until a uniform color and roll into a ball. The easiest way is to knead as shown in Figure 3 and 4. Roll up a long sausage, twist it in half ..

and flatten.
After that, the resulting cake is again rolled into a sausage. Repeat the procedure until a uniform shade is obtained.

We got several of these balls, different shades. Looking ahead, I’ll say that the brightest turned out to be too much, a large number of light stripes are not good for naturalness.

From each ball we roll out such thin sausages, always with our hands, squeezing out of a syringe is not suitable here. Pearlescent scales must twist in different ways to achieve the effect.
I posted the ruler and the template on the photo for the same neat people like me. Thus, I determine the approximate size of the chopped sausages. You see, I have them about two lengths of the template, when we roll out, it will turn out to be just three lengths. (I don’t like a lot of scraps)) In general, you can not mess with this, but simply cut into equal segments.

There is no need to suffer with the evenness of the thickness of the sausages either. After all, the veins in the tree are also uneven.
We fold the resulting sausages with one sheet, pressing lightly against each other, in random order.

We got such a canvas from alternating shades.

We take that rolling pin that is bigger and slowly roll all this splendor. Do not rush, so as not to roll out by chance to a very thin transparent layer.

Voila! We have a completely wooden surface. The veins are very natural, as the scales in the metallic plastic “stand on end” along the edges of each sausage and give dark color, and in the middle, each vein plays with a shade, because we rolled it out with our hands and the scales wrapped randomly.

Let's get straight to the guitar.
We cut out two soundboards and a shell for the body of the guitar according to the template with a small blade.
According to the same template, we will cut out a base from a plastic filler, 3-4 mm thick, which we will then paste over.

I cut the shell along the ruler. 12 cm long, width equal to the thickness of the filler plus the thickness of the decks you have cut.
Starting from this moment, we carry out all operations with gloves, so as not to leave fingers and give smoothness to our tree.

First, glue the decks, gently iron from the middle in order to release all the air. Then we will cover the sides with a shell.

Let's smooth the joints a little, there is no need to achieve a complete merger, real guitars always have such a piping.

Now we roll a small ball of bronze plastic. And very carefully flatten it with a small rolling pin (for me, this function is performed by a naphthyzinum bottle). The difficulty here is that we need a thin layer of a perfectly round shape. In the finished (flattened) form with a diameter of 8mm.

With a device with a ball at the end, we will make a recess in the upper deck and literally smear a bronze circle there. Smoothing from the middle so that there are no bubbles left.

We will form a small piece of bronze plastic and stick it on the body, we get a support for the neck.
Well, the chores with the body of the guitar are over for a while. Dimensions: 3.5cm by 2.5cm.

We cut out a bar 4.5 cm long from bronze plastic. Flatten one end to form the headstock.

We roll up a small nut of black plastic, put it on the neck. And we pierce through holes diagonally with a thin wire or needle. I thought that for such a small one, even three strings would be enough.

Now we need pegs. Very small balls are convenient to roll on the table with your index finger.

With the help of a needle, we will put them on the back of the neck,

We will attach the neck to the body, press it well, just make sure that our work is not deformed. Let's attach the second threshold, slightly longer than the first. And we will make a small hole for a pin with an eyelet on which the guitar will hang, a little diagonally to the center of the drum.

so that they visually cover the holes, but do not clog them.

It remains for us only to apply three drawings on the sills, the strings will lie in them. And pierce three holes on the body opposite each little rice, 1-2 mm deep. We will glue the strings into them.
The guitar is ready to bake. We heat the oven to 110-130g, put the guitar on a sheet of baking paper folded four times and put it in the oven! For thirty minutes.
You can, of course, put it on cotton wool so that the neck does not bend, but it seemed to me easier to straighten it with your fingers when we take the finished guitar out of the oven while it is still warm.

Make a guitar build plan. If you don't have a plan, you might end up with something completely different instead of the intended guitar. To make a good guitar, you need to think about its design, and decide on the components that you want to use. The condition and quality of your guitar will depend on how skillfully you handle the assembly. The complete set depends on what means you have and what brands you prefer.

Make a drawing. Everything you build, be it a house or a Lego car, needs a blueprint. To make it, very carefully draw the guitar you want. Do not write anything on this sheet - it will bother you later. Specify only the required dimensions, and make all other notes on another sheet. You can also print a photo of the guitar at actual size, and then transfer the outlines using a backlit surface or sheet of glass.

Guitar body. To make a guitar, you will need a body. The body is the most important part of the guitar. Without it, there would be no strings, no pickups, no sound itself. If you have a guitar, you can use a pre-made body. However, if you want your guitar to be different, you will need to handcraft the body from wood. The type of wood and its density affects tone and sustain (how long a note lasts). With the tree selected, trace the body on the piece and cut it out. Exotic wood body blanks such as swamp ash and mahogany can be ordered from dedicated guitar building resources such as stewmac.com. Having received the body of the desired shape, you need to make a cavity in it for the neck. There are three types of neck mounting: bolt-on, glued (looks sleeker, but not as versatile), and through (the neck goes through the entire body of the guitar).

Buy or make a neck. Buying a pre-made neck is the easiest, but if you're making your own guitar, you'll need to make the neck as well. It's not that hard, it's enough to find wooden block desired length (usually the length of the neck is about 24 inches / 61 cm, give or take a couple of centimeters). If you're making your own fretboard, you'll need to make fret wire frets, which are available from many places. The process of installing the frets is quite laborious, and requires accuracy and patience. Each fret needs a separate notch, and it should be the same everywhere. If the notches are different, the neck will constantly ring in different frets: no one will like this, and first of all you.

Cut out a cavity for the neck. Its size can be different, so be careful and be accurate.

Choose pickups. The pickups generate a magnetic field and pick up the vibration of the strings. Without pickups, your guitar will not be able to drive an amplifier. You will also need to determine the order in which you will place the pickups. It all depends on your budget. Here are some examples:

SSS, SSH, HSH, HH, H, HHH, SS, Or HS
- S - single, H - humbucker
  - Be very careful when choosing pickups as they affect the tone.

Buy pickups. You had to choose the option that suits you. Look for it in your area so that it is of high quality and affordable. You can also find interesting deals online (for example, three pickups for $50).

Cut out the cavities for the pickups. There are two types of travel: the top travel is used to route wires through the top of the body, and the controls are accessible from the top (as in the Fender Stratocaster); the bottom travel is used to route wires into the back cavity of the guitar (as in a Gibson Les Paul). Make cavities of the correct depth for each pickup, and make holes between the cavities for wires to the controls and other pickups.

Install the bridge (bridge). The bridge keeps the strings at a certain height. It should be placed directly opposite the neck. The string grooves on the bridge must CLEARLY match the grooves on the nut near the headstock. Some bridges hold the strings on their own (Telecaster), others pass the strings through the body (Les Paul).

Painting. This is the most interesting part. Sand the guitar body well so that it can be painted and choose a color. It is recommended to use paint based on nitro-lacquer to give the wood good looking. Apply one layer, let it dry, then apply another layer. You can apply four coats or more until the color suits you. If you want to keep the guitar for a long time, apply fewer layers and do not use varnish.

The first mass production of electric guitars dates back to 1934. Over time, the popularity of such musical instrument only grows.

There is an opinion that it is impossible to make a decent quality electric guitar with your own hands. But that's not the case at all. You just need to have some skills in carpentry and locksmith skills, as well as be patient and accurate.

How to make an electric guitar from scratch - we will talk about this and not only in this article.

Frame

Many of those who make homemade electric guitars argue that the instrument should be as light as possible. This is especially true for beginner guitarists.

Despite the fact that it is more difficult to play a heavy guitar, the body must still be massive. Its weight usually varies between 3.5-4 kg.

As you can see in the photo of homemade electric guitars, birch, maple or plywood are most often used to make the body.

But fiberboard is considered the optimal raw material, since this material does not have a certain texture and knots. In addition, it is easy to process.

The work plan for creating the body of the guitar is as follows:

Draw a sketch of the body on the board and cut it out with a jigsaw.
Cut and drill all required holes.
Make the bottom wall out of 4-6mm plywood.
Fasten both parts with liquid nails;
Process the workpiece with a rasp and clean with sandpaper.
Cover the body with nitro putty in several layers.
Clean up with fine sandpaper.
Paint with nitro paint in 4-5 layers.

Vulture

The neck is made from hardwood. Ideally, if it is a beech. Consider the instructions on how to make a fretboard and handles for an electric guitar.

The first step is to choose a bar of the required size. With the help of a planer, it grinds. The top of the neck should be perfectly flat, and the bottom should be rounded.

The rounding of the upper part is purely symbolic - from the nut to the end of the neck, the curvature should disappear. It is permissible to use a neck from an old instrument. But it will have to be reduced in width and the shape of the head changed.

For the headstock, use the same wood from which the neck is made. After sawing it, do not forget to process it with a file and clean it with sandpaper. Using a drill, make holes for the pegs in 3 cm increments. Insert the pegs and glue the head to the neck.

The next step is to carefully position the frets and make cuts using a hacksaw. It is permissible not to paint the top of the neck, you just need to cover it with stain and varnish. To mark the frets, you can use plates or circles made of black or black plastic. white color. Cut them flush into the neck.

The neck must be covered with putty and painted. Its fastening to the body is carried out using a steel plate with studs.

mechanical vibrator

It is necessary to change the tone. The strings pass through the shaft, trying to turn it, and the springs act as an obstacle. With the help of the anchor, the springs are tensioned, and, as a result, the strings are weakened. This results in a sound reduction of 1-0.5 tones.

If you turn the anchor in the opposite direction, then the strings will be stretched and the sound will rise by a tone - half a tone. It is easier to buy a mechanical vibrator ready-made.

Note!

Pickups

This is the basis of the electric filling of the guitar. Usually put 2 - 3 pickups. It is very important to choose suitable option. To do this, study all the offers in your region and view the ads on the Internet. Remember, don't skimp on quality. The wire from the guitar to the amplifier must be shielded, up to 5 m long.

How to convert an electric guitar to left hand

Many left-handers are naturally concerned about the question of how to properly make an electric guitar left-handed. To do this, you will need to remove all the strings from the instrument and turn it over. It is also optimal if you purchase a new nut for the strings.

All that is needed is to insert a new one instead of the pasted nut. This must be done in such a way that the hole for the sixth string stands in place of the first, and the first in place of the sixth. The remaining strings must be pulled in a mirror order. That's all.

In this article, we considered only one idea on how to make an electric guitar yourself. There are others. Therefore, be patient and self-confident and go for it - create. Such an electric guitar, made by yourself, will be the subject of your pride.

Photo of a homemade electric guitar

Note!

Electric guitar for a beginner is very expensive pleasure. This is an almost unattainable dream for a young man. But in the meantime, an electric guitar made by one's own hands would be suitable for a novice guitarist. And this is not a chimera, it is quite possible.

DIY electric guitar

The main element of the instrument is the body. On guitars made in specialized factories, it is made of wood. For homemade tool this option will not work, since it is very difficult to make a guitar body out of wood at home. For him, you will need wallpaper glue, paper and sawdust.

The fact is that the body does not play a special role in the sound. The main thing here is the device of pickups and a digital processor that serves to create sound effects. For its manufacture, a mold is made of plasticine. The mixture for the production of the case will be poured into it. The bottom and walls must be made as smooth as possible, then it will be less necessary to bring their surface after solidification. The whole form is molded by hand (contours - any).

Now you need to prepare the mixture. For her, you will need a couple of buckets of sawdust, a couple of boxes of wallpaper paste. Sawdust is poured into the diluted wallpaper paste. Everything needs to be mixed well. You should get a fairly thick mass, which is poured into the mold. The form with the mass must be left for a week to dry.

After the mixture has dried, you need to check by separating the plasticine from the body for cracks. If, nevertheless, cracks are found, they should be covered with the same mass and again left to dry for a week. When everything dries, the body must be polished with the help of the next operation will be pasting the body with old newspapers in 10 layers. The same wallpaper glue is used for this. Again, it should dry for a week. After that, it will have to be sanded and painted again. For this you need old paint(the older, the better, because over time, those substances that spoil the sound of the guitar disappear from the paint). This will be the last operation for the manufacture of the hull.

Neck making

An electric guitar, created with your own hands, must have a neck. To do this, take a thick branch of any tree. It must be at least 6 cm in diameter. It needs to be sawn lengthwise, and the workpiece should be planed with a planer. With the help of a chisel and a hammer, the head of the neck and its heel are made, with which the neck is connected to the body. It is taken, cut into pieces, and frets are made from it. Aluminum is the best conductor of sound. The wire is glued to the fingerboard with Moment glue. A recess is made under the connection of the neck with the body in the body with a chisel. The neck is nailed to it with nails.

Production of the acoustic part

It is better to remove the tuning pegs from the old guitar and nail it to the sides of the neck. Nut for strings is made from nails. When the strings are stretched, the nails will need to be hammered in to the end. The bridge is made from an old latch, for which three nails are hammered on each side of the bridge. Two are at the same height, and the third is slightly lower. Two nails on the edge will keep the latch from slipping off. And the third will be a support. The bridge is set arbitrarily. The height of the strings is determined by the height of the hammered nails. To secure the strings behind the latch, six nails are hammered, they need to bite off their hats and bend back slightly. This will be the string holder. To play an electric guitar, a device called "picks" is better to buy in a store. But you can try to make it yourself.

So the electric guitar, made by hand, is ready.

Surely, many guitar owners had the idea to make a guitar with their own hands, according to their own taste and understanding. In my opinion, such thoughts often come to those who have a purchased guitar that is not very good, but there is no money for a new one, and who knows when they will.

Why do I think so? And why would a person who has a Fender, Gibson or PRS dirty his hands?

Unfortunately, it is very naive to hope that the first handmade guitar will be decent. Both in terms of sound and appearance. There are, of course, people who make masterpieces the first time! But more often the first pancake comes out lumpy.

In order to do something, you need to know how to do it. So people came up with books and textbooks to share their experience. And before picking up an ax, you should definitely spend some time on the Web, see what experienced masters write, how pioneers do, what mistakes they make, etc.

I don't even have the thought to cover everything in more or less detail, because it will turn out to be a thick book of wisdom, which, for example, is the fundamental =) work of Martin Koch. What is written below is a bunch of my mistakes, shortcomings, just another coin in your treasury of knowledge, which, I hope, will help make your guitar better.

It all starts with the choice of a tree, a few words about it.

Very often, the bodies of the first guitars are made of pine. "Connoisseurs" believe that this is a complete crime and proudly look down on us. However, if you have a good pine board (without knots, the presence of dense fibers, the desired thickness and drying) and sensors of 500 rubles each, you can extract a tolerable sound: clean and transparent.

Spruce was chosen as the mass production material for the Jolana Diamant guitars.

It was for those whose financial difficulties have not been fully resolved.

If resolved, then you can go to a store that sells all kinds of exotic. Describing each breed does not make sense, there are many FAQs on this topic on the net. When choosing a tree, it is necessary to look at the location of the fibers: they must go symmetrically, without sharp bends.

Look and compare, it is obvious that the right piece is better. At least purely visually. The fibers are arranged nicely and evenly. On the left is a dark tree of the same species. This means that it is from the core. This doesn't fit.

If beautiful pieces are found, then they need to be tapped, you can touch 50 boards, but not one will respond the same way. Whichever sound you like best, that one should be taken.

Accessories should be taken preferably immediately! So it will be easier to bring the instrument to mind right away, and not to suffer later with the finished, painted, etc.

Here, it seems like I wrote the introductory part. Next, I will describe the process of making my first guitar, with notes and additions.

So the tool:

1. Jigsaw
2. Electric grinder (preferably not a belt, but an eccentric one)
3. Milling machine
4. Electric drill
5. Compressor installation (to it, of course, an airbrush and cans of paint or varnish)

Hand tool:

1. Planer, sherhebel, scraper.
2. Joiner's clamps, the more the better. (Ordinary G-shaped ones will not work, you will not clamp large parts in them).
3. Pliers
4. Phillips screwdrivers
5. Nippers
6. Hammer
7. Manual jigsaw (the only thing I managed to do was cut under the frets)
8. Knife
9. Files

This is such a small set.

For tools you need:

1. For a jigsaw, a file with a clean cut and a wide blade, for straight cuts and with a narrow blade, about 4 mm, to cut out the contours.
2. For belt sander, belts of different grain sizes: P36(40), P60, P80, P100. In descending order of grains. P40 for rough sanding, P60 for removing scratches from rough sanding, P80 and P100, P320, 500, etc.
3. For a router, you will need a straight cutter (preferably one large 12.7 and the other 6 mm), if the edges are made semicircular, then an edge moulder.
4. For drill, metal drill 9mm, 6mm, 3mm, 2mm, wood 12mm, 22mm, 19mm, 26mm. Concrete drill 8 mm.

Let's agree that the tree is selected, there is a reference point in the sound, the form is printed.
I decided to make it out of pine, a non-standard shape, with a classic Strat machine, a humbucker in the bridge and a single-coil in the neck. Ash wood neck, without fretboard, with trussing on the back.

One of the most important things is the absence of knots. There shouldn't be any, and I don't have any.
The first stage of a long process and almost the most important: gluing the body.
It is not so easy to correctly and accurately fit 2 boards so that there are no gaps when gluing.

There are several options:

1. Connect them using clamps with a “sandwich” and process the surfaces to be glued as a whole with a planer.
2. Using clamps, connect them into a shield and go through the joint with a router, which, in theory, should provide a perfect (!) fit. I'm going to try this in the near future.
3. Processing each separately, etc.

Fitted, glued:

We mark the contours so that vile knots do not come across, cut out with a jigsaw.

When the board is wet and starts to dry out, it can take on a curve, which is what I have. First, with a sherhebel (rough processing), then on a finishing planer and coarse P40 sandpaper.

It's time for the cutter.

I draw efs, transfer them to a plywood template, cut them out with a jigsaw, fix them on the body and cut them out with a straight cutter with a bearing.

Next, I made a groove for the neck. I did the markup with a pencil and a ruler, but cut it out without any limiters, it turned out well, but still far from perfect. The way out is this: the neck, at least its contours and thickness, must be done before milling work on the body, when the neck is there, it is fixed in this way and then a place for it is calmly and accurately cut out.

I have a stall on the upper horn on one side and the other, there are a lot of options for creating it. One of them - a ladder is made with a router and then smoothed out with chisels.

Then I rounded the edges on the body with a grinder, it is more expedient and more accurate to do this with an edge radius cutter with a bearing.

The headstock can be either straight or at an angle of 13-17 degrees. If in a straight line, then it is necessary to install retainers so that the strings are still pressed against the nut. Usually, if the head does not have an inclination relative to the neck, then it is made from a single piece with it. If it has a slope, then it is usually glued for reasons of profitability, that is, saving wood.

There is a whole theory on gluing the head (well, if not a theory, then the rules).
Sometimes, for some reason, the neck is glued along the entire length of several pieces. But, exclusively longitudinally, it often happens on inexpensive Ibaneses, Jacksons, or vice versa, on expensive custom guitars in order to give beauty visual and sound.

I went the wrong way, gluing the neck of 2 equal parts with a sandwich, and then also gluing the straight head with the wrong method, as a result of which, when the strings were first pulled, it was simply torn off. I note that by gluing it back in the same way, it no longer created problems.

So, I had 2 ash boards and a piece of pine on my head, mark it, cut it off, glue the workpiece.

For neck operations, absolutely all clamps in the house must be removed to ensure good bonding.

Now is the time to think about the truss rod. A double-action anchor is preferable, which needs a straight channel of the same depth along its entire length to work. For traditional Fender rods, the groove must have a certain bend in depth, which is not so easy to do. But I limited myself to a simple threaded rod, a couple of washers and a few nuts, the neck of such a design will bend in any case, but under certain circumstances, it can take on a wave-like shape, which is fraught with you know what.

The groove for it can be made either from the back of the neck, covered with a piece of wood, or from the front, gluing the overlay on top. But I don’t have an overlay, so the first path was chosen. A guide is installed on the router to make everything straight and even. The cutter is placed 6 mm groove and go! I didn’t have such a diameter, only a larger one, I didn’t have the skill of work and theory in stock either.

The workpiece must be given the same narrowing to the top nut on both sides. In principle, you can do it just with a jigsaw, which I did. Then he cut out his head, made holes for the pegs, and glued it. Summary of all actions:

Since the groove came out not even, but even a curve at all, then there can be no question of carefully gluing the plug. I put it in the groove, put PVA porridge and sawdust on top to hide the flaws. It’s immediately obvious that I didn’t regret “porridge”:

The whole thing dries, you can return to the body. Next in line are pickup niches, tone block, tremolo sampling.

If you plan to make more than one guitar, then it is better to immediately make templates for the router. I did not do this, having marked everything, I took up the milling cutter.

Next, you need to make a hole for the jack and connect all the recesses into a single network of tunnels =). Through a hole drilled with a 22 drill bit, with the help of a long drill, I bite into the rock and exit in a humbucker. Through the sample under the neck I connect the single to the humbucker.

There are holes for the potentiometers and the switch. Here is what we have after all the manipulations:

There is progress! It's time to return to the long-suffering neck.

The neck has two bends in cross section. The first is the fretboard radius, the second is the neck profile. Both this and that are purely individual things, depending on the purpose of the guitar, the required sound, etc. There are many articles on this topic, and it does not make sense to describe here. The neck profile can be done as follows:

At the nut create a profile with a file, at the heel of the neck do the same and with the help of a staple it must be connected to each other. My overlay does not have a radius for ease of production, but if you decide, then a radius throw with a skin is in your hands. The most subtle in the whole action is the process of marking the frets, on which it will depend whether the guitar builds or not. It is necessary to mark it as accurately as possible, the sizes are all on the Web for any scale. For even cuts, it makes sense to make a kind of miter box.

The thickness of the file is also important, if it is too thick, the fret will not hold, and if it is thin, then do not drive it at all. I did all this with manual jigsaw, and expanded the cuts with a knife, this is far from the best option.

In order for the frets on the fingerboard to be even, before hammering, they must be given either the same radius as the fretboard, or completely straightened in my case. With the help of a mallet or hammer, the fret is carefully hammered, starting from its end. Then we chamfer the frets with a file on the sides.

And we align relative to each other in height with the help of a bar with sandpaper. The last stage: the groove for the threshold, glue.

This completes the work with the tree, you can start painting

This work is quite specific and requires a good skill in working with an airbrush. A slight delay in one place and there will be a drop-shaped smudge on the case. To avoid smudges, you need to follow certain rules:
Do not pass the same place twice on the same layer. The paint should be thicker or thinner, but the amount supplied to the jet should be small. There are many wisdoms, such as determining the viscosity of paint with a stick and a stopwatch. It's all in the car paint books.

The work area must be cleared of all debris and dust in advance. Otherwise, the guitar will be applied with sand =). Before painting, the body must be sanded with P500-1000 fine sandpaper, all irregularities must be removed.

The easiest paint to handle is nitro-celluloid based, it has only one component, dries relatively quickly, and after many years of happy use is inevitably covered with a wonderful web of cracks.

The first layer is nitro primer. You can use regular nitro lacquer. After covering the guitar, let it dry, then with a fine sandpaper, bring it to virtually zero, but do not overdo it! It is needed to fill the pores in the tree.
Then again a layer of nitro-primer, sanding with the smallest sandpaper. And then the desired color is applied. As a rule, 3 more layers, and on top of a transparent varnish.

Here's how to do it in a nutshell. My path was completely criminal. I decided to cover immediately with paint. (Why bother with all sorts of soils?) And even not being able to really work with an airbrush. The result is appropriate. All wood fibers in reality, the paint does not hold well, smudges, etc.

The view is more than disgusting. Later, of course, I tore it all clean.
We can conditionally say that I finished painting, the next step is to revive the guitar! Install mechanics, electronics, adjust the neck height, etc.

Shielding of all internal surfaces with foil was immediately made. Literally in the process of writing it turned out interesting thing. The foil kills the sound! Preferably, though more expensive, the screen is made using graphite varnish.

2 double potentiometers were supplied. Each potz had 2 knobs, one for volume, the other for timbre. Here, in principle, everything is simple. The necessary circuit is obtained on the Internet and, with the help of a soldering iron, is brought to life, the main thing is not to overheat the potentiometers.

Whatever they say about pine, I liked the sound!

It's not as "short" and slightly nasal as the Les Paul. It is crystal clear, large quantity medium and high. Whose merit is in this: an ash neck or good pine boards of the body? I don't know, but this is exactly what I wanted. On overload, it does not fart, does not whistle and does not squeak, but produces a good sound. Partly even like Deep Purple.

In terms of sound, everything suited me, but the neck turned out to be a huge spoon, just a bucket of tar! Its wrong markup. The reason for this is my own stupidity and lack of necessary literature. The fret spacings were taken from another guitar, which resulted in errors that, at first glance, are small, but pretty spoiling the sound.

When there is extra wood and time, I will finally make a good neck and put the guitar in the closet. In order to show this miracle to my rare guests, and then also surprise! The fact that such a miracle can also make a sound.

The plans are to create a Strat according to all the canons and rules. Everything is already purchased, so stay tuned for the next chapter!