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Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care. Chrysanthemums - planting and care in open ground, forming a beautiful bush How to plant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are popular flowers to grow in the garden. Many varieties have been developed that are suitable for planting in open ground. Plants will delight owners and guests with their beauty for many years if they are properly cared for. By following simple rules for caring for flowers, you can ensure that they do not shrink or rot. It is best to propagate chrysanthemums using cuttings, which are prepared from garden bushes, and from bouquets.

Planting chrysanthemums on the site - procedure and necessary conditions

Perennial chrysanthemums are sun-loving and dependent on soil moisture. For planting in open ground, a place where there is almost no shade during the day is suitable. Partial shade and full shade will not allow plant buds to develop, chrysanthemums will stretch out and will not bloom. To speed up flowering, cover the newly emerging buds from the sun.

It is better to choose a place located on a hill where water does not linger in the soil. Excessive moisture not only slows down flowering, but also causes root rot. Sand is used for drainage. Dry soil is not suitable, since plants are able to receive moisture only from the upper layers of the soil. Loose soil that easily absorbs moisture is best suited for growing chrysanthemums.

Plants are demanding on soil composition. They grow beautifully and bloom for a long time in places where there are enough nutrients. To fertilize, add manure, peat or compost to the soil, one bucket at a time. square meter to obtain neutral or slightly acidic soil. Overfed plants will produce more foliage but are unlikely to bloom.

A cloudy day is most suitable for planting chrysanthemums outside. If it is hot and sunny, then planting is done in the early morning or late evening, protecting the plants from the rays. Frosts are dangerous for newly planted flowers. At temperatures below zero, it is recommended to cover the seedlings non-woven material. Chrysanthemums are planted in a shallow hole. Tall bushes are tied to a support so that they do not break under own weight. Once every three years, chrysanthemums are replaced.

To plant, wait for consistently warm weather, without cold snaps. The soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm should be +14 degrees and above. It is preferable to do this at the end of May, beginning of June. You can also plant in autumn, but only until mid-September. If you miss the moment, it is better to keep the chrysanthemums in a cool place (not lower than minus two degrees) until spring, watering them periodically.

Chrysanthemums are planted in the ground according to the following scheme:

Choose a suitable place and time.
Dig holes 30-40 cm deep. The distance between them for large chrysanthemums is 50 cm, for small ones - 30 cm.
Water with a lukewarm solution of potassium permanganate of rich color.
They make drainage from sand. Fill the hole with it to at least 10 cm.
Organic fertilizer is mixed with sand and laid on top of the drainage in a layer of 10 cm.
Place the plant in the hole. The roots do not clear the soil.
Fill the hole with soil without compacting it too much. The soil can be mixed with fertilizer suitable for the variety being planted.
Water the seedling.

Cover the plant from sun rays for 2-3 days, taking care that the covering material does not lie on the leaves.

Plant care - watering, fertilizing, winter storage

The watering regime for perennial chrysanthemums is selected taking into account the characteristics of the soil and weather. The soil should still be moist, but not soggy. It is better to take soft water for irrigation. It is especially important for the development of the plant that there is enough water in the soil within a month after planting. The procedure is carried out once or twice a week. The signal to reduce watering is the appearance of buds. During flowering it is reduced even more.

If chrysanthemums are not planted this year, then before flowering in the soil, depending on its saturation useful elements, nitrogen fertilizers are applied once every one to two weeks. If planting was done this spring, feed twice during the entire period of growth and flowering. After the flowers appear, phosphorus-potassium compounds are used. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Until July, feed with chicken droppings or cow manure diluted in water. 1 liter of the resulting infusion is diluted in a 10-liter bucket. Before applying fertilizer, the chrysanthemum is watered, the soil should be moist. Then pour 1 liter of solution directly under the root of the plant.

The first time a chrysanthemum planted in the ground is pinched when the length of the cutting reaches 10-12 cm. The second time - at 20-22 cm from the root. Plants planted in spring are pinched three to five times per season. Autumn - carry out the procedure once or not at all.

Autumn can be early and cold, but chrysanthemum can withstand frosts down to -10 degrees. And is able to thaw and bloom if the temperature rises. In the last days of October, the plant can be covered with a frame covered with polyethylene. In such conditions, the chrysanthemum will bloom until the end of November. Then it is transplanted into a pot, and it continues to bloom in the house until the New Year holidays.

Preparing plants for winter depends on the type of chrysanthemum. Late varieties are transplanted into pots and kept indoors. The remaining species are cut at the root, loosened the ground and covered with leaves to protect them from frost. Large varieties must be dug up for the winter. They are transferred to a box along with a lump of soil and stored at temperatures down to minus 5 degrees. The soil is sometimes moistened, being careful not to flood it or dry it out between waterings.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Flowers can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. Seeds do not transmit varietal characteristics, so the second method is most often used.

Cuttings of street flowers

Cuttings can be obtained in several ways:

In the fall, when it is time to harvest chrysanthemums for the winter, the plant is cut at a height of 5 cm from the roots. The resulting stems are divided into cuttings, then rooted until spring.
Prune the plant in the summer during the growth period. You can do this an unlimited number of times.

Cuttings are parts of a stem or shoot that have 3-4 leaves. Their length is 5-8 cm. The leaves are removed only at the base, which is buried in the soil, the rest are saved. It is important to choose a cutting whose base is not too soft, but not too hard. The first option will create a risk of rapid rotting of the plant, and the second may result in the cutting not taking root.

The shoots are planted from March to May. Early varieties in the first half of spring, the rest - in the second. They take root within two to four weeks. The air temperature suitable for growing is +15-17 degrees. The seedlings are placed on the sunny side.

To grow a cutting, you need to do the following:

1. In summer or autumn, separate it from the plant and cut off the lower leaves.
2. Plant in separate containers and store until spring.
3. In the spring, place the substrate in the box for rooting seedlings and compact it a little. It can be peat with sand, a mixture of soil, leaves and sand, or pure peat or perlite. The height of the substrate is 10 cm or slightly more.
4. Pour 1-2 cm of sand onto the substrate.
5. Water.
6. Deepen the cuttings 1.5 cm into the substrate at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other.
7. Water again. Then once every two to three days.
8. Cover with film without air access for a week, then remove first at night, and then stop covering at all (except for the time when protection from sunlight is needed). This will create proper air humidity.

After the tops of the cuttings begin to grow, they are transplanted into separate containers with soil. If this is not possible, then enough soil is immediately poured into the box with the substrate so that the seedlings have enough substances for development. The distance between plants in this case should be 8-10 cm.

To obtain cuttings, the plant is pruned several times so that the growth nodes are preserved. The length of the cutting is about 10 cm. Cuttings are cut from March to May. After cutting, they are planted in a box with soil, regularly watered and fed with organic fertilizer containing nitrogen. The cuttings take root and sprout in two to four weeks.

Cuttings and growing from a bouquet

It's easy to root a chrysanthemum from a bouquet. To do this, it is better to choose a plant as soon as possible after cutting the flowers. The longer a chrysanthemum stands in a bouquet, including in water, the more likely it is that it will rot and not give roots. A flower with shoots has a better chance of germinating.

Instructions for cutting chrysanthemums from a bouquet

1. Choose a strong, good stem or shoot.
2. Cut off the flower, shoots and stem about 10-15 cm long, leaving a few leaves at the top.
3. Place it in a container with water, place it on the window and wait for the roots to appear.
4. The cutting is transplanted into a container with a substrate after the development of a root system that is powerful enough for independent growth. After transplantation, the cuttings are cared for as described in the article above.

This method is suitable for growing chrysanthemums in open ground and at home.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums

The types of chrysanthemums that are loved by gardeners and therefore most often found in dachas and flower beds are: chrysanthemum and multiflora (spherical).

The genus chrysanthemum can be short, up to half a meter, and tall, up to one and a half meters. This includes annual and perennial plants with large and small flowers. For chrysanthemum, it is important that the sunlight is bright but diffused, so it is shaded at lunchtime, and that the weather is not too hot. There are about 150 varieties of this species, so choosing the right flower for your garden will not be difficult. For the winter, the plants are cut and stored with a lump of earth at a temperature of plus 3–5 degrees, carefully watered.

Popular varieties: low-growing perennial Chrysanthemum alpinum L (silver-gray), Chrysanthemum x morifolium Ramat ( different colors with a yellow center). Tall up to 1 meter Chrysanthemum frutescens L (white, yellow and pink).

Multiflora is a variety of chrysanthemums with small flowers, pleasing to the eye in late summer and autumn. Its inflorescences form a ball shape, due to which the leaves are not visible, which looks unusual and attracts attention. For such a chrysanthemum, the key condition is to plant it in a place illuminated by the sun all day. All varieties grow well in open ground. For the winter, either cover the pruned bush or transplant it into a pot and bring it into a cool room.

Popular varieties: tall plants(up to 70 cm) varieties Branfountain Lemon (lemon color), Bransky Plum (pink-raspberry), Branroyal Yellow (yellow). Low Branchili (red). Early Branbeach Orange.

Chrysanthemums are unpretentious flowers to care for and reproduce that will delight you with their appearance for several years. Having planted in the spring garden plot, all summer and autumn you can admire their colors. The choice of varieties is huge; every gardener will find something to suit his taste and soil characteristics. Cuttings for plant propagation are made from flowers growing outside or cut into a bouquet. For wintering, the bushes are cut and covered with leaves, turf to retain heat and moisture, or brought indoors. There they are stored at a low temperature, preventing the earthen lump on the roots from drying out.

In autumn it is difficult to resist buying chrysanthemums. Lush beauties seduce us at exhibitions, in supermarkets, at grandmothers' markets. There is an opinion that flowers planted at this time will certainly freeze. To prevent this from happening, you need to know some tricks.

Nuances of autumn planting chrysanthemums

For novice gardeners, chrysanthemum is fraught with many mysteries, but if you look into it, there is nothing complicated. In regions with negative winter temperatures, only hybrids - Korean chrysanthemums - are planted in the fall. Usually at this time we are tempted by the Multiflora (multi-flowered) group, which is formed in the form of a ball on a stalk.

The spherical shape of the Korean chrysanthemum is obtained by pinching the main and side shoots

Indian chrysanthemums, the ancestors of Korean ones, not only are not planted in the fall; on the contrary, in cold climates they are dug out of open ground for winter storage. Due to their heat-loving nature, they are usually grown only in the south, in rooms or in greenhouses for cutting.

When buying a chrysanthemum in the fall, it is welcome if young green shoots have formed at the roots. Its presence indicates that the bush has acclimatized, is well rooted and has already wintered in the open ground at least once. If all conditions are met, such plants will not freeze. Oddly enough, but the “correct” bushes are easier to purchase from grandmothers at the market. Stores often sell imported flowers, sometimes from southern countries, on which basal shoots have not formed, since they were grafted in the spring of this year. It is these specimens that most often do not survive winter.

Basal shoots of chrysanthemum are young shoots from the root

Unscrupulous sellers often sell Indian chrysanthemums under the guise of Korean ones. It is almost impossible to distinguish them; both species have oak-like leaves.

The undoubted advantage of autumn planting is that the plant variety is visible: the flowers and the size of the bush. Under such conditions it is easy to compose beautiful flower bed or curb. In addition, in the fall there is less risk of running into non-wintering Indian varieties. They are usually sold in spring and summer.

Border of chrysanthemums along paths or fences - perfect solution when you need to quickly decorate the garden

In order for chrysanthemums to survive the winter, they need to be planted correctly.

Disembarkation dates

The ideal time to move chrysanthemums into the garden is in the spring or at the end of August - September. Then they will have time to take root before frost, which is the main condition for successful wintering. It is too late to plant a plant at the end of October and November, but if the bush has already been purchased, it is better to leave it over the winter in a dry cellar or bury it in a greenhouse, cutting off the shoots after flowering.

Korean chrysanthemums planted in a greenhouse in the fall will not freeze

Where and how to plant tsetas

In order for the chrysanthemum to winter well, place it only in a sunny place where moisture does not stagnate. Wetting of the roots is one of the reasons for the death of the plant. Many gardeners notice: where the spring waters stand in the garden, not a single chrysanthemum survives. Therefore, landing on small elevations or hills is allowed.

Flower beds or rockeries with chrysanthemums enliven the garden in autumn

The Queen of Autumn loves neutral and slightly acidic fertile soils. Before planting, it is advisable to dig up poor soil with the addition of 2 kg of mature humus or compost and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate per 1 m 2.

If there is no rotted organic matter, add 1-2 tbsp to the soil. l. nitroammophoska per 1 m 2. If necessary, heavy soils are lightened with sand.

It is better to plant chrysanthemums in the evening or in cloudy weather. In order for the roots to develop freely, a sufficient distance between plants is required: 30–50 cm, depending on the size of the bush.

Step-by-step instructions for planting chrysanthemums:

Before planting, soak the roots of the plant for 1 hour in a solution of humates, Kornevin or another rooting agent according to the instructions.
Dig a hole 35–40 cm deep.
To improve the drainage properties of the soil, pour three handfuls of coarse sand onto the bottom and mix with the soil.
Place the bush in the hole and spread the roots evenly to the sides.
Sprinkle the plant up to the first leaves with a mixture of soil and old humus, if the area has not been fertilized before.
Compact the soil around the seedling and water thoroughly.
Sprinkle the tree trunk circle with a thin layer of compost, old manure or peat.
Without pity, prune the flowering stems above the bud so that only 5 cm of stumps remain.

For quick rooting in hot weather, shade the bushes with agrofibre. Water them only at the roots as the soil dries out.

Kornevin - stimulator of plant root system formation

Korean chrysanthemums live longer when replanted annually.

Shelter for the winter

Before the onset of frost, plants need to be prepared, especially those grown in greenhouses. During the growing season, these chrysanthemums completely “eat up” the soil in the pot; the roots intertwine into a solid lump that cannot be straightened out when planting. Such specimens will freeze without shelter, even if shoots indicating rooting have appeared. Typically, 1–2 layers of non-woven covering material are used. Suitable folk way: Place spruce branches on the bushes, and cover with mature humus on top.

Spruce branches - the best natural covering material for plants

In the northern regions, even Korean chrysanthemums are best grown in pots and placed in the basement for the winter.

And in my lifetime there have been winter losses of greenhouse chrysanthemum balls purchased and planted at the end of October. Of course, I didn't cover them. In the spring, I pulled frozen black stems out of the ground. Now I don’t take risks and never plant specimens “on one leg” in the fall. I trim it, leaving the stumps 5 cm, plant them in pots and put them in the cellar, water them occasionally. I plant it in the garden in the spring. In September, after flowering, I cut it, dig it up, if possible, divide the bush in half and plant it in a new place in fertilized soil. I water it twice with rooting agent. Before frost, I cover it with lutrasil. In this way, zoned and propagated chrysanthemums winter well. I especially liked the Korean variety. The bush grows quickly, the red-golden flowers change color several times.

The Korean variety, if provided with shelter, tolerates cold winters in open ground.

Autumn planting of chrysanthemums - video

In order for the chrysanthemum to take root, it is necessary to plant it on time - at the beginning of autumn, then it will have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. When planting, the bush is radically pruned. For the winter, freshly planted flowers must be insulated with covering material.

Chrysanthemum on the site is a riot of colors, an abundance of flowering and a variety of forms. Growing this plant in the open ground at the dacha, it blooms in August and delights throughout the fall; even slight frosts are not scary for it.

Growing chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums amaze with their variety of colors and types, but gardeners prefer small Korean varieties, as they combine well with other plants in the flowerbed and also tolerate well low temperatures. Let's look at some features of growing and caring for chrysanthemums.

How to choose a place to plant chrysanthemums

The area for growing chrysanthemums should be in an elevated place, protected from the wind, but in such a way that the wind fence does not shade the flowers, since sunlight gives strength to growth. The soil should be rich in nutrients, well drained, loamy or medium-heavy. Does not like acidic soil.

How to prepare the soil and planting chrysanthemums

Apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the fall. Clay soil It wouldn’t hurt to improve it by adding manure humus, peat and compost. For middle zone Russia best time for planting chrysanthemums it is May or September. Planting can be done in holes or trenches, as convenient for you, at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other, depending on the “lushness” of the variety.

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

When formed by pinching, you will get a neat chrysanthemum bush. The first pinching is done when the stem length is 12-15 cm, i.e. It is believed that the cuttings have taken root well and are ready to form. Pinch off the top of the chrysanthemum shoots by 2 cm.

To form small-flowered chrysanthemums, the next time, pinching is done so that there are 7-8 leaves on the shoots. During the season, 3-4 pinchings are usually done. For large-flowered plants, you need to consider how many shoots you will grow. When forming 3 shoots for decorative chrysanthemums, one pinch is made, and when forming 1 shoot, 1-3 pinches are made, this will depend on the variety of chrysanthemum and the bud from which the largest inflorescence is formed.

To prevent the inflorescences from becoming smaller, replant the plants after 3-4 years.

Caring for chrysanthemums

Constant watering, but not dampness - this is the main rule when caring for chrysanthemums. It is better to water with soft water. Loosening chrysanthemums as a separate care item. Feeding at the roots so as not to cause a burn on the leaves (first with nitrogen fertilizers - for lush greenery, during budding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers - for lush flowering, you can add bone meal). This solution is good for fertilizing: put 2 buckets of mullein and 1 bucket of chicken manure in a barrel and fill everything with water, after 3 days the fertilizer is ready. To dilute the concentration: 1 liter of solution per 10 liters of water. Apply 1 liter to moist soil for each plant.

If the lower leaves of the chrysanthemum have turned black, then the plants have been infected by a nematode - dig up and burn the plant. Do not plant chrysanthemums on the affected area for several years.

Reproduction methods

There are several methods of propagation: by cuttings, division or root shoots, which are separated from the mother bush. The flower should be planted in spring or early summer, or at least in early September, before the first frost.

How to grow chrysanthemums from cuttings

In general, cuttings can be rooted at any time from May to the end of September. If you get a sprig of chrysanthemum at least 8-10 cm long, root it in the area, covering it with film to maintain humidity. You can place the container with the cutting somewhere in the shade or simply cover it with a trimmed top plastic bottle. Water with Kornevin or place in a heteroauxin solution for 4-6 hours before planting. After a couple of weeks, the plant will produce roots, which means it can be replanted to a permanent place of “residence.” Cover the cuttings for a week to help them take root better.

Cuttings planted in open ground before September will survive winter well if they are simply covered with sawdust.

Irregular watering and lack of moisture of the chrysanthemum will lead to lignification of the stem, deterioration in the quality of flowers, and loss of decorativeness.

If you cut chrysanthemums in June, blooming chrysanthemums will delight you New Year. Plant the cutting in open ground under a glass jar or film, pinching the top. At the end of November, plant in pots and move to a warm and bright place.

How to root chrysanthemum cuttings from a mother plant

Successful rooting of cuttings requires approximately 20-30 days, plus hardening for 2-3 weeks - these are the approximate time frames for cuttings from a chrysanthemum mother plant. A month before the start of cuttings (January-February, for later varieties the period shifts by 2-4 weeks), prepare the mother plant: gradually increase its storage temperature to 16 ° C, water regularly (only at the root) and after watering every 2-3 weeks Fertilize with a solution of nitrogen fertilizer (10-15 g per bucket of water). This is done so that the plant has strong young shoots. After each watering, mulch the plants with peat, so you retain maximum moisture. For chrysanthemum cuttings, it is better to use shoots of 2 or 3 orders, good option root shoots will become for the cuttings.

Chrysanthemum cuttings are obtained from young shoots that have 10-12 leaves. Under the leaf node, break off the top of the shoot, 5-7 cm long, so that there are 3-4 leaves. The leaves that need to be removed from below and checked to ensure that the cutting does not begin to become woody.

Only healthy cuttings are planted. If you see aphids on it, treat it in a soapy solution, rinse it, and powder the cuts with charcoal. Start planting in boxes with a layer of 5-6 cm of soil and a 2-3 cm layer of washed river sand on top. Plant in the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm at such a distance that the leaves are slightly in contact with each other. Sprinkle with water and cover with film or glass. Place the cuttings in a room with a temperature of 15-16°C for further rooting.

If your soil is not ideal for growing chrysanthemums, then dig it up in the fall and fertilize it with sawdust, humus and old leaves. In the spring, start planting chrysanthemums from cuttings. The readiness of chrysanthemum cuttings for planting in open ground is determined by the appearance of the top of the stem.

Before planting, the cuttings are hardened by airing or taking the boxes outside, and covered with film at night.

Fertilize the soil with urea, make holes with a distance of 30-50 cm between them. If possible, dig a small trench nearby for the convenience of further watering. Water the cutting, place it in the hole so that the neck of the root is about 5-7 cm in the ground. Moisten the soil well and cover it with mulch in case of a possible cold snap. The shelter can be removed when the temperature outside stays above zero at night. For 5-6 days, the cuttings are shaded a little during the day from the scorching sun.

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds

The goal is to get a lot of quality seeds. The easiest way to obtain chrysanthemum seeds is from small-flowered non-double or semi-double varieties. It’s better not to have anything to do with large-flowered plants; most likely there will be no point.

Those plants from which you are going to get seeds need to be planted earlier than usual. Caring for chrysanthemums from seeds is usual: regular loosening, watering, fertilizing, spraying, pinching and be sure to pinch. To get better seeds on one stem, you need to leave only one inflorescence. You need to pinch once, removing the spring bud.

With the onset of autumn, rainy and damp weather begins, so it would be logical to install a light film cover over the chrysanthemums so that the inflorescences are not wet. You can immediately transfer them to a greenhouse; if this is not possible, then leave the plants in the open ground until frost sets in, and then transplant the seeds into containers for growing, placing them in a warm, well-lit place.

If you transferred the seed plants to the greenhouse, then protect the inflorescences from condensation by stretching gauze over them. If you grow chrysanthemums with long corollas, regularly cut the petals in half to improve ventilation and give as much light as possible to the receptacle (where the seeds are). Ripening, regardless of location, occurs until December.

You need to sow seeds in open ground in May in order to wait for flowering in August. Place 3-4 seeds in one hole. The holes are made at a distance of 25 cm.

Flowering will begin in June if you sow the seeds in March in a heated room. Pick grown plants and plant them in open ground in the last days of May.

If you buy seeds, then it is best to sow seedlings in early March in boxes 6-8 cm high. Pour in a nutritious soil mixture: white peat, humus and sifted greenhouse soil (all in equal proportions), heat at a high temperature of 120-130 ° C, so you will carry out disinfection. Spread the seeds over the surface and sprinkle with a layer of vermiculite, approximately 7-10 mm. Moisten and cover with glass or transparent film. Leave at a temperature of 16-20°C and after 10-14 days you will see the first shoots. Then you water, feed, provide good lighting and plant in seedling pots when 3-4 leaves appear. Transplant into open ground in May according to a 15x30 cm or 20x30 cm pattern. As they grow, discard weak plants. In the first year of cultivation, keep chrysanthemums in single-stem form, this will strengthen it.

How to protect a chrysanthemum from frost

If you grow chrysanthemums from cuttings, then in October install a frame on the site and stretch the film over it - this will be protection from frost.

Young plants are stored in a cool room at above-zero temperatures until February, then exposed to light and heat. You can store it in the house, but then you need to periodically pinch the plants, otherwise the shoots will stretch into growth. The drug “Athlet” slows down the stretching of shoots.

When aphids and mites appear:

use the insecticidal preparations Actellik and Ratibor;
You can try to get rid of aphids with flea drops. Dilute 2-3 drops in one glass of water and spray the plants. Repeat the procedure after 3-4 days;
wash with soapy water every 7-10 days;
using pyrethrum: 200 g of the drug per 10 liters of water, leave for 12 hours. Take 50 ml of concentrated solution, add 50 g of soap and pour in 10 liters of water;
Garlic extract is effective: crush 50 g of garlic and add 1 glass of water. Strain after 20 minutes and add water to a volume of 1 liter. In the evening, take 1.5 cups of infusion, dilute it in a bucket of water and wash the plants.

Once again, you can clearly study the features of caring for chrysanthemums and consider in detail the methods of propagating the plant by watching the following video.

It is very difficult to imagine an autumn flowerbed at the dacha without chrysanthemums. When the leaves fly off the trees in the garden and almost all the flowers have already withered, they delight the eyes of the owners with their multicolored appearance. Another advantage of this plant is its unpretentiousness; care and planting still have their own characteristics.

Growing in open ground

At its core, chrysanthemum is a southern plant, but several varieties have been bred that are perfectly adapted to the Russian climate. In our area there are low border species or beautiful spherical plants. The most gorgeous large-flowering varieties can only be grown in warm climates or at home in pots.

An important feature of such a perennial as chrysanthemum is that the plant does not tolerate high humidity, so it is very important to organize good drainage.

On a note. Another nuance is the growing period. Bushes should be updated every 3 years.

Landing Features

For long-term cultivation Suitable for open ground frost-resistant varieties. It is best to choose zoned species, as well as seedlings grown from seeds. Before you learn how to plant chrysanthemums, you need to understand where they will grow best.

An ideal place for growing would be a site that meets the following conditions:

the area should be illuminated by the sun throughout the day;
the soil should be moderately moist, but without stagnant water;
It is important to provide protection from the wind.

Important! The slightest darkening will affect flowering, as well as appearance: the stems will be elongated, the flowers will be small and sparse.

The soil for planting chrysanthemums should be loose, perfectly permeable to moisture and have mild acidity. It is important to take care of soil fertility; if it is poor, the flowers will be rare and small. To increase fertility, peat is added to planting holes.

Important! It is not allowed to introduce fresh manure into the area where the chrysanthemum will grow.

When digging an area, a special nutritional composition is added to each square meter, consisting of 30 g of urea, 100 g. superphosphate, 20 g. humus and 100 gr. potassium sulfate.

Most often, these flowers appear on sale in the fall. Chrysanthemums are sold in pots. Many people are interested in whether these plants can be planted in open ground. It all depends on the variety. Still, at this time it is better not to disturb the plant, since it has already devoted all its energy to flowering, there simply will not be any left for rooting.

Chrysanthemums

The best time to plant chrysanthemums is in the spring. In the southern regions, landings are carried out at the end of April or early May, but the northern territories of Russia should wait until the end spring frosts, only then the chrysanthemums are planted.

When disembarking, the following conditions must be met:

the hole is dug to a depth of 40 cm;
after planting, the plant is not buried;
the distance between individual bushes is left 40 cm;
the plant needs support in the form of pegs.

Some people have a question about how to plant chrysanthemums in the fall, since there is simply no other option. Autumn planting differs little from how to plant chrysanthemums at other times. You just need to be prepared that plants take root worse in the northern regions than in the southern regions. Planting is carried out at the end of September or beginning of October.

Planting chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum care

Chrysanthemum is unpretentious perennial plants, but compliance with some rules of agricultural technology is simply necessary. If you care for it correctly, then chrysanthemums, which are easy to plant and care for in open ground, will delight you with beautiful, abundant flowers in late summer and autumn.

Care in early spring

After the snow melts and ends spring frosts, remove a layer of mulch from the area where chrysanthemums grow. The plant is weeded with careful loosening of the soil. The first fertilizer complexes are applied. In early spring, it is preferable to use nitrogen compounds that promote green growth. After the bush reaches 15-20 cm, they begin to form the bush - each branch is pinched, which guarantees beautiful branching. Also at the beginning of spring they carry out preventive treatment bushes with special preparations to protect the weakened plant after winter from damage by diseases and infections.

Advice! Watering is carried out as the soil dries out. Feeding is also carried out regularly.

Summer care

Despite the fact that the first flowers will appear only towards the end of autumn, care does not stop in the summer:

soil is loosened and weeds are removed;
fertilizing is applied regularly per month;
The formation of bushes does not stop.

When the first signs of disease appear, treatment with special compounds should be carried out.

In order to get the desired result from a plant, the basic rules of agricultural technology are followed, which will consist of simple procedures: watering, fertilizing, bush formation and protection from diseases and pests.

Top dressing

Watering

The plant should be watered as needed. Most often, watering once a week by abundantly wetting the top layers of soil is sufficient. In summer, at high temperatures, it is recommended to increase watering up to two times; before flowering, it is worth watering more often (3-4 times a week).

Important! Abundant watering is only permissible in well-drained soil.

Top dressing

To obtain abundant flowering, plants will need frequent feeding, which should contain the entire set of microelements:

nitrogen;
phosphorus;
potassium;
calcium;
magnesium;
sulfur;
iron;
manganese, etc.

For fertilizing, it is best to use complete complex formulations that have the formula NPK 5-10-10 or NPK 5-10-5.

If the bushes are planted in the spring, then in the first season 2 feedings are sufficient. From the second year, fertilizer should be applied every month. Starting from August, only phosphorus compounds are used.

Phosphorus fertilizers

Bush formation

To make the plant actively branch, you should in early spring When the shoots reach 15-20 cm, pinch the tops, removing 2-3 cm. After the new side branches grow to 15 cm, remove the tops again. 50-60 days before flowering, the formation of the bush is stopped.

Bush propagation

Chrysanthemum bushes should be renewed every 3 years. A similar procedure is performed in early April. Reproduction can be carried out different ways: seeds and seedlings, cuttings, dividing the bush.

The division of bushes is carried out as follows:

The parent bush is dug up.
Young shoots are separated, 5-7 cm high.
They are planted in holes made at a distance of 40 cm.
After the new plant reaches a height of 15 cm, the top is pinched (broken off).

Diseases and pests

When growing chrysanthemums, like any plant, certain difficulties may arise caused by pests and diseases.

Treatment should be carried out when the very first signs of a problem are detected, better protection will be the prevention of their occurrence.

Foundationazol for prevention

Among the main preventive measures are:

To prevent root rotting, late blight is added with each feeding.
To prevent damage from viral and infectious diseases After each rain, they are treated with drugs such as Quadrix, Previkur, and so on.
Ratibor, Fitoverm, Aktaroy and so on will help protect the plant from caterpillars and leaf rollers.
Fight aphids spider mite You can use a soap solution, insecticides, or garlic extract.

Preparing for winter

In late autumn, when abundant foliage begins to die off, the entire above-ground part of the plant is cut off. Only a part 15-30 cm high is left above the soil. To protect the plant and protect it from frost, it is recommended to cover it with a good layer of mulch made from straw, spruce branches, fallen leaves or sawdust.

Important! If the area is relatively low, then drainage ditches are dug in front of the bushes, where excess moisture will collect.

So that chrysanthemums please the owner’s eyes for a long time, you should listen to the recommendations of experienced flower growers:

For the cold Russian climate, you should choose frost-resistant varieties of perennials.
In order for the flowers to be large, you should regularly fertilize not only the roots, but also by spraying.
In order not to lose the plant in winter, you can transplant some of it into containers, and carefully cover the rest for the winter.
For beautiful design Flowerbeds should be planted with varieties of different heights.
Chrysanthemums do not like soils that have a lot of clay.
In the garden, shrubs can delight you with flowering for a long time if you select varieties with for different periods maturation.

As you can see, planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums in open ground will not cause any difficulties. Today there are many flowers of this shrub, so you can successfully fit the plant into landscape design and decorate your garden flower bed profitably.

The noble chrysanthemum is a flower loved by Japanese and Chinese emperors, royal gardeners, as well as a large army of flower growers of the most different countries peace. Millennia pass, and the “sunny” flower, although it acquires a variety of colors, does not lose its popularity. Regular or double, tall or short, with large or small flowers, any chrysanthemum is a real decoration of the site. The perennial chrysanthemum will delight everyone who fulfills the requirements necessary for its cultivation. Chrysanthemums garden planting and care is carried out observing special rules.

Perennial garden chrysanthemum

You can grow a chrysanthemum in your garden using flower seeds, seedlings or using cuttings.

Seeds

We begin working with purchased seeds of the variety we like in early spring. When growing chrysanthemums from seeds directly into the ground, first water the prepared holes well and then sow the seeds in them. After sowing, it is necessary to provide the seeds with favorable temperature regime. To keep the soil moist and not overcool, it is covered with plastic film. The sowing site is left in this form until sprouts appear.

Chrysanthemums sown from seeds are... With spring sowing, flowering will begin in the first ten days of August.

To speed up the start of flowering, we use seedlings. Let's start by preparing the flower containers and moistening the soil in them. After sowing the seeds, just sprinkle them lightly with soil and leave them under the film until germination. Sprouts will appear no later than a week. This method is most suitable for growing seedlings.
When using seeds, it should be taken into account that they do not have the ability to preserve the variety.

Seedlings

Seedlings - picked chrysanthemum seedlings. Their preparation for planting in the ground takes time. Initially, cups with picked seedlings should be kept in cool rooms. The optimal temperature is no less than 16°C and no more than 18°C. Water the soil in the cups as it dries, being careful not to over-moisten it. Chrysanthemum seedlings require sufficient light for normal growth. Therefore, additional lighting is provided in dimly lit rooms.

Cuttings

You can get a suitable cutting only from the main (root) shoot of the flower. Having retreated 3-4 mm from the top of the leaf with a bud, cut off at least 6-7 cm of the plant for cuttings. The procedure can be carried out in the spring, after the air has warmed up to more than 21°C. However, on hot days (more than 26°C) cuttings are not recommended. A chrysanthemum cutting cut with a sharp knife is immersed in moist soil sprinkled with sand, having previously been treated with a growth stimulator. The thickness of the sand layer is 2 cm. The angle of inclination of the handle is from sharp to straight (from 35° to 45°).

Planting garden chrysanthemum

Planting garden perennial chrysanthemum begins with choosing a location. This needs to be approached very carefully. “Flower of the sun” loves open, well-lit places that are protected from drafts. Experienced flower growers know: to prevent flowers from becoming small, you need to choose a place where the plant will not be in the shade.
Soil is less important for the plant. But it is necessary to ensure that the soil has good drainage and there is no stagnation of water.

Preparing the planting hole

The hole prepared for planting should have a depth of more than half a meter; a suitable depth is 60 cm. We fill the planting hole following the following procedure. We start with the drainage layer. Suitable materials for drainage are small pebbles, expanded clay, crushed stone. The next layer is compost or organic matter. Fill the hole with soil mixture.

Landing dates

Experts believe that the best time to plant chrysanthemums is in the spring. The landing time depends on the weather on a particular day. In sunny weather, planting is possible only early in the morning or in the evening after sunset. But it is best to plant chrysanthemums when it is cloudy or rainy.
In the southern regions, perennial chrysanthemums can also be planted in the fall. But even here, planting chrysanthemums in the second half of September or later is not recommended.

When planting in spring or autumn, the following rules should be observed:

Make sure that the root is not buried.
Use supports when planting tall chrysanthemums.

Topping

For normal development, the chrysanthemum seedling is pinched twice. The first time the procedure is carried out immediately after planting in the ground, the growing point of the flower is removed. After 21 days, pinching is performed a second time. Now you need to break off the top part of the flower so as to grab 2-3 nodes.

Caring for garden chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum bush

Chrysanthemum is not a particularly demanding flower. However, compliance certain standards care will ensure not only normal growth, but also long-term flowering of chrysanthemums.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums includes the following processes: watering, mulching, fertilizing.

Watering

Constantly maintaining light soil moisture - required condition when growing garden chrysanthemum. The amount of water used for irrigation depends on the planting region. In hotter and drier places, watering should be more abundant. But excessive dampness can harm the flower. During the budding process, watering is slightly reduced; flowering also requires a reduction in watering.

Mulching

To rid chrysanthemum plantings of weeds, as well as to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases, the soil around the bush should be mulched. The best material for mulch is coniferous material, such as needles or pine bark. Sawdust also works well as a soil mulcher.

Top dressing

Garden chrysanthemum responds well to systematic feeding. They should be carried out at least 2 times a month. Plants are fed with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, this allows the flower to grow well. During the flowering period, fertilizers with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium are used. Mineral fertilizers applied as root irrigation.
From time to time, the plant will also benefit from bone meal used for feeding.

Preparing for winter

Garden bush chrysanthemum will tolerate winter temperatures well at proper preparation for the cold season. Before frost, faded bushes are pruned, leaving no more than 2-3 cm. After this, the chrysanthemum bushes are covered with fallen leaves, pine needles or branches. Late-blooming varieties are dug out of the ground and transplanted into a pot. Thus, they overwinter as indoor plants.

Protection from diseases and pests

Chrysanthemums susceptible to root diseases are helped by using Fitosporin during feeding (in accordance with the instructions).
It is also recommended to treat chrysanthemum bushes after rain with special preparations against fungal diseases and viruses.
Folk remedies (soap solution, garlic tincture) help cope well if aphids or mites appear on the plant. Crushed eggshells or cooled wood ash, which are sprinkled on the soil around the plant, help fight snails or slugs.

Following simple rules when growing chrysanthemums allows gardeners to preserve blooming flower beds until late autumn.