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Making a forge with your own hands. DIY forges: principle of operation, tips DIY brick forge drawings

The forge is indispensable in workshops and forges for creating steel products by forging hot metal at temperatures up to +1200°C. There are many various models with a simple structure and under different types fuels with different characteristics. How not to make a mistake in choosing them and build them correctly?

Structurally, the forge consists of the following elements:

base made of non-flammable material and having high strength;
fireproof table;
fuel chamber with grate;
air chamber and drainage;
inlet duct;
air valve for adjusting air supply;
tent-shaped chambers;
opening for feeding long workpieces;
bugle umbrella;
gas-air chamber;
baths for hardening workpieces;
chimney for removal of combustion products;
removable furnace.

Principle of operation

The operating principle of the forge is based on chemical reaction combustion of carbon, which reacts with oxygen to form carbon dioxide, releasing heat. In addition, metal recovery occurs, which is a very important aspect for the formation of homogeneous, high-strength parts.

To maintain an optimal level of combustion and temperature, air ducts and air chambers are installed inside the fuel chamber, which forcefully pump pure oxygen. Due to this, it is possible to obtain temperatures above +1000°C, which are unattainable with conventional combustion of solid fuel (coal or wood).

At the same time, using the inflation technology, the volume of air is selected so that there is always a slight lack of oxygen for the oxidation reaction to occur. In other words, it is necessary to select an operating mode to prevent metal combustion.

The residence time of the smelted part in the furnace should also be limited, since in the atmosphere carbon dioxide the metal will react with it and form a high-strength alloy with increased brittleness. These negative consequences can be avoided by introducing additional oxygen into the chamber in such an amount that carbon dioxide has time to completely react.

Purpose and uses

A DIY forge is made depending on its main application and can be configured accordingly to suit specific tasks. Therefore, it is important to understand what each of its structural parts are intended for:

a firebox with a grate, an air chamber, a valve and a pipe are used to burn fuel and heat the metal workpiece; depending on the temperature requirements, they can have an open or closed design, and also not be equipped with air pressurization;
air drainage is used to regulate the supply of oxygen and prevent embrittlement of the metal, allows you to create optimal conditions when heating and melting the workpiece;
a tent or umbrella with a chimney is used to drain carbon monoxide and other combustion products that may be harmful to human health;
a quenching bath is necessary for rapid cooling of the metal and its acquisition of optimal plastic and strength properties;
a heat-resistant cap or crucible, used to expand the zone of uniform heating, which makes it possible to effectively melt metal (usually non-ferrous precious metals) in a crucible;
gas-air chamber, used for drying air, purifying it from impurities, as well as for introducing alloying elements, designed to produce high-quality products with specified characteristics in accordance with a specific reference diagram of states and phases;
the table serves to place all the elements of the forge on it, as well as for partial cooling of the workpieces; it is a mandatory part of the design.

The forge is used for the following purposes:

heating the metal for subsequent forging or other types of processing;
melting in special forms;
heat treatment to improve certain properties.

Classification of forges

Before making a forge, you need to familiarize yourself with their classification in order to choose the most suitable option designs. Classification is carried out according to the following criteria:

by type of fuel used;
by type of construction;
according to hearth size.

Types of forges by type of fuel used

According to the type of fuel used, forges are divided into the following types:

gas;
solid fuel;
on liquid fuel.

Solid fuel forge

Gas forges have the most simple design, cheap to repair and maintain. They are characterized by minimal weight, which allows them to be made portable or compact.

Solid fuel furnaces are distinguished by the ability to obtain the highest possible heating temperatures, the relatively low cost of building materials for construction and ease of operation. For their kindling, it is permissible to use the following types of fuel:

carbon or coke, which is highly expensive and increased efficiency(consumption up to 5 times less than coal), it contains no foreign impurities, ignites at temperatures above +450°C;
Coal, the most common and efficient fuel, emits coke gas when burned, so when kindling it is necessary to wait until it has completely evaporated; it is suitable for forging various decorative elements or parts of average quality;
charcoal has a minimum ignition temperature compared to other types of fuel, but it burns out quickly and is characterized by increased consumption, so it is effectively used for kindling.

It is permissible to use diesel fuel, fuel oil or waste oil as liquid fuel. At the same time, it is important to pre-clean it, since the presence of impurities will cause an unstable flame and release of harmful compounds into the atmosphere.

This also makes it difficult to maintain equipment due to frequent blockages.

Classification by design features

Homemade blacksmith's forge design features can be classified as follows:

by installation method: portable or stationary;
according to the design of the combustion chamber: closed or open type;
according to the placement of the boost: with a side or central nozzle.

Types of forges by hearth size

There are different sizes of hearth forges: small, medium and large. They are determined by the operating efficiency of the installation and completely depend on the intensity of fuel consumption and operating modes of the fuel chamber. The optimal efficiency of fuel flow rate is from 1 to 1.5 m/s.

The productivity of the forge is directly proportional to the amount of tension and hearth area. In this case, the minimum tension is considered to be in the range from 100 to 150 kg/m 2 h. Values outside this range are not economically viable.

How to make a blacksmith's forge?

Before you make a forge with your own hands, you need to prepare necessary materials and tools. This will minimize time costs

Instructions for creating a solid fuel mobile forge

Before starting work, you must collect the following tools:

welding machine;
drill;
file;
set of wrenches;
putty knife;
roulette;
level;
clamp;
marker;
Bulgarian

Having prepared a drawing of a forge, you need to purchase materials for its construction:

sheet steel 2-3 mm thick (recommended 09G2S);
swivel wheels 4 pcs.;
profile pipes of square section with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm;
refractory cement;
air snail;
fastening elements: bolts and nuts;
stainless steel pipe along the diameter of the cochlea outlet;
adapter.

An open-type mobile coal forge is manufactured step by step as follows:

We take a steel sheet and mark it with a marker according to the size of the desktop.
We cut out the tabletop with a grinder and clean the edges with a file.
We mark a rectangular hole on the cut sheet for the mouth of the forge and cut it with a grinder.
We take the second steel sheet and mark the elements of the parts for the trapezoidal mouth of the forge.
We cut out the vent elements and then weld them into a single structure.
We weld the muzzle to the working surface of the table in the place of the cut hole.
We turn the structure over with the mouth downwards and mark the locations for the walls to place the coals.
We cut out the sides for the working surface of the table from steel.
We weld the sides so that there are no gaps at the seams, and the seam itself is strong and continuous, we accurately center the structural elements.
For the lower part of the vent, we cut out walls from steel for supplying air ducts, and then weld them.
We make a removable bottom for the vent, designed to remove ash.
We attach the pedal to it using levers.
On the wall for supplying a pipe with air, we make a hole along the diameter of the pipe.
Made of steel profile pipes we cut out the elements and weld the frame to mount the working surface.
At the bottom of the frame we weld a bar for attaching the snail, and then fasten it with bolts.
We prepare the pipe for the air duct.
We attach the air duct to the cochlea and the vent; if necessary, we provide additional fastening to strengthen the structure.
We attach swivel wheels to the bottom of the frame with bolts.
We coat the joining seams with fireproof putty.
We form a refractory layer on the working surface of the hearth based on refractory cement mortar.

A forge on coal must be tested by heating it to operating temperatures, but only after the cement layer has completely hardened.

Step-by-step instructions for making a gas forge

To make a gas forge, you need to prepare the following materials in advance:

fire brick;
sheets of heat-resistant steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm;
thin stainless steel sheets (thickness up to 2 mm) for external cladding;
steel profile pipes;
chimney pipes made of stainless steel;
fireproof putty;
standard burners used in gas boilers heating;
fan for pumping air.

You will also need the following tools:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
drill;
file;
roulette;
marker.

A gas forge is manufactured in the following sequence:

We take refractory bricks and build the body of the forge out of them. If necessary, we process the ends with a grinder with a special attachment for concrete to ensure a tight joint.
At the front of the structure we create a small step made of refractory bricks, designed to maintain the optimal temperature.
We make a rectangular hole in the back for ventilation.
We make a base from a thick sheet of steel to the size of the brick body of the forge.
We weld profile pipes at the end parts of the sheet so that the bricks inside them are motionless.
In the side of the combustion chamber we cut a hole for the supply gas pipe with burner installed.
We cut out the upper part for the forge from thick sheet steel.
We weld the corners of the body at the bottom and top.
We drill one hole in the corners and tighten the lower and upper parts of the forge with pins.
We cut out a stand for the forge from profile pipes, and then weld all the parts in accordance with the drawing.
We install the forge on the stand.
We attach a pipe to the chamber to remove combustion products.
Placed inside the chamber gas burner and attach it to the insertion point into the camera.
The outside of the body is sheathed with thin-sheet steel, having previously cut out parts with the required dimensions from the sheets. We weld all seams with a continuous seam.

Making your own forge is not only an inexpensive and relatively uncomplicated process, but also allows you to get an installation for specific needs.

Updated:

2016-09-12

Making a forge with your own hands is far from the most difficult task. At the same time, you will have the opportunity to create metal masterpieces at home. Of course, making a forge with your own hands only makes sense if you are going to work with metal and forge certain products.

Photo of a forge

Forged elements are actively used in industry and everyday life. These can be either huge complex structures or simple small crafts.

To be able to forge metal, you must have a forge and a device that will heat the metal to the required temperature of 1000-1300 degrees. How to achieve this at home? That's right, you need to build a forge with your own hands.

The forge device is designed specifically for heating metal workpieces to high temperatures.

The forges have the same operating principle, but the devices differ only in the type of fuel used. This affects the type of construction.

Modern blacksmiths who prefer to work at home use coke as fuel. This is due to the fact that coke provides a high temperature at low consumption and produces a minimum of waste.

The nuances of self-production

How can you make a homemade blacksmith's forge? To do this, you will need drawings of a heating device model that suits you and the room where the equipment will be located.

Forges differ in the types of heating chambers.

Closed heating chambers. They are the most efficient because they minimize fuel consumption while providing excellent heating of workpieces. But the blanks themselves are limited in size, since they depend on the dimensions of the chamber.
Open heating chambers. This design provides that fuel is poured onto the grate, and air is supplied from below. The metal blank is placed on the fuel. Although fuel consumption is slightly higher, larger workpieces can be used.

How to make a blacksmith's forge in order to be able to forge iron at home? Let's consider each stage of construction of the structure.

Photo of a handmade forge

Table. The table is the basis of a homemade forge. The drawings show that building this element is quite simple. Typically the height of the table is up to 80 centimeters, and 5 millimeters thick metal is used for the lid. Working surface became may have various sizes. It all depends on what kind of metal workpieces you are going to work with. Another option for building a table is to use angle iron to create a frame. Bricks and a grate are laid inside it. The grill should be positioned in the center.
The grid is mounted in a hole made in the table. Then the fire brick is closed on all sides. Select the height of the table directly to your height so that the structure is at waist level.
Blowing For the forge device to work effectively, it requires high-quality air supply. Due to oxygen, the temperature rises and the metal begins to melt. Traditional forge designs used a foot-driven blower. But now everyone has the opportunity to use electricity, so the optimal solution is an electric fan or an old vacuum cleaner. The vacuum cleaner supplies air with the required force. If you have a speed controller, you will get a chic homemade horn.
Now all the structural elements are assembled into a single system - a homemade metalworking forge.
Pour the required amount of fuel onto the grate. First use wood chips and medium wood, after which comes the turn of coke. Turn on the blower and place your workpiece over the fuel. A small amount of coke may be added on top of the iron. If there is no coke or there are large reserves of wood waste, you can use them.

This is a model of a simple blacksmith's forge. If you have the desire or opportunity, you can significantly improve your own equipment for blacksmithing, bringing it closer to the features of an industrial forge.

What does an industrial forge have?

Professional blacksmiths use industrial forges, which are characterized by increased efficiency and high reliability. It is almost impossible to make an industrial forge yourself. But somehow bring it closer homemade model towards the ideal is quite realistic.

What is different about an industrial forge, and what components are included in its design?

Air supply nozzle. Homemade forges use the hose of an old vacuum cleaner to supply air instead of a nozzle;
Fire brick. There is a complete analogy between home and industrial devices;
Grate. Most homemade forges involve the use of a grate. Many people make it from old frying pans with thick walls;
Solid fuel socket. This slot allows you to conveniently load the required amount of solid fuel. Equipping a homemade forge with such an element will not be a problem;
Frame bricks. These are already stationary devices that are laid with bricks. For a simple forge, such elements are already superfluous;
Air supply fan. We looked at an example with a conventional vacuum cleaner, which does a good job of pumping air. If you want, you can use fans or other similar devices;
Metal carcass. The table is supported on its basis;
Air chamber. Homemade forges do not have it, but if you need professional equipment, equipping your device with a camera would not be a bad idea;
Ash pan. If you are going to regularly use your forge at home, we recommend equipping it with an ash pan. This will make it easier to care for the device;
Forge casing.

Decide for yourself how to complement your forging device. At the same time, we advise you to follow several recommendations to increase the efficiency of the device.

Fuel can be coal, wood and coke. Although coke is more expensive, it consumes 5 times less than coal and produces less soot and waste. Fine coke is the most efficient look fuel for the forge.
An alternative type of fuel for the forge is gas. Moreover, from cylinders or lines. When using gas, you do not need a grate. The advantage of gas is the ability to control the heating temperature and its availability.
A hood consisting of metal 4-5 millimeters thick should be installed above the forge.
If the forge runs on gas, you need to make holes for the burner on the sides.
Forging devices require fume removal systems. This is a pipe 5 millimeters high, the cross-section of which is 30 by 30 centimeters.
A good replacement for a vacuum cleaner is a stove fan that is installed on cars.
If you make a hole in the back wall, ventilation will be much more effective.

After looking at the photos of the forges and studying the video tutorials on them self-production, we can conclude that there is nothing complicated in the construction of such units. Another question is: do you need it?

Hand forging is becoming increasingly popular - both to meet your own needs and to produce various products to order. Heating of metal, in order to increase its plastic characteristics, must be performed in special heating devices, the simplest of which is a forge. The main task of the forge is to ensure a stable increase in the temperature of the metal to forging temperatures, i.e., no less than 1200 °C. How to make a homemade forge, and whether it is possible in principle, is discussed below.

Classification of types of forges

It can be carried out according to the following main indicators:

According to the type of fuel used. There are gas furnaces, as well as devices operating on solid (coal) or liquid (fuel oil) fuel.
According to the design features, open and closed forges are built.
By hearth size (effective surface) – small, medium and large.

Solid fuel forges, which require the use of coking coal - effective for video shooting, but outdated technical solution. This will require not only ensuring a continuous supply of high-quality charcoal, but also coming to terms with technological shortcomings, including:

uneven heating;
inability to control the process;
increased sulfur content, which will increase fragility during the forging process;
increased fuel consumption, it can be up to 120 - 150% of weight;
low efficiency of the device, accompanied by significant waste.

Nevertheless, such designs can be used at home in conditions of single production of products, especially if they are mini-forges running on cheap fuel oil.

Forge design

To create more favorable working conditions for a blacksmith, it is more advisable to build closed forges. Although they are somewhat more difficult to manufacture, they are more efficient and provide uniform heating of workpieces, in particular, those with a round or rectangular cross-section. Open forges remain insignificant in terms of product size for artistic forges.

Forge closed type consists of the following elements:

steel support frame with racks;
hearth;
linings;
gate valve;
fan;
chimney pipes.

If during forging it is necessary to heat the metal not completely, then technological holes are made in the damper. They are equipped with closing eyes, necessary to reduce fuel losses and speed up the heating process.

When setting up a workshop, it is economical to equip the forge with a simple recuperator - a unit that increases the temperature of the exhaust furnace gases. Furnaces with recuperators have more high efficiency, and the generated heat can be used, for example, for a furnace performing subsequent processing forged products– their forge welding, bluing, etc.

Stages of making a homemade forge

How to make a blacksmith's forge, and where to start? To make a closed furnace, you will first need to determine the dimensions of its hearth. They are determined by the desired performance, and depend on fuel consumption and the intensity of the forge. For gas version The optimal fuel supply speed can be 1 - 1.5 m/s: in this case, heat transfer processes in a closed space will proceed quite efficiently.

The hearth tension N is related to the productivity of the furnace N by a simple ratio:

where F is the hearth area.

Taking into account the area allocated for the forge, as well as the expected forging productivity (for example, in kg of products), it is possible to establish the actual minimum tension of the hearth (it should not be less than 100 - 150 kg/m2 ∙h, otherwise the arrangement of even a mini-version of the heating installation turns out to be unprofitable).

In order to make a forge with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

thick sheet heat-resistant steel;
refractory brick (fireclay or dinas);
rolled steel profiles (angles, channels) for mounting the hearth frame, manufacturing the damper and support posts;
steel chimneys for removing gases generated during the heating process of products;
fireproof coating for sealing cracks;
sheet or wide steel for external lining.

The design of an open hearth is much simpler - it only needs to be equipped with a grate system and provide an air supply that intensifies the heating process. In this case, a conventional ventilation hood made of heat-resistant steel is sufficient to remove combustion products.

In addition, during construction it makes sense to use standard units. Here we should mention a fan for the furnace, which can be used as units produced for high-power double-circuit boilers. Also suitable are ventilation pipes and steel chimneys designed for smoke removal of gases at 300 - 400 ° C. You can set up a forge with your own hands using burners from powerful double-circuit boilers.

Making the support frame

Since the forge is a stationary unit, you should clearly determine its location. At home, not the entire part of the workshop can be used as a forge. But, of course, the forge should be adjacent to one of its walls, preferably one that does not communicate with adjacent buildings, since in this case it is much more difficult to arrange chimneys and install a fan for the forge.

According to the terms fire safety the structure must be at least 1 m away from the main wall of the workshop, and any use of materials with reduced fire resistance (including plasterboard of the GKLO brand) is excluded.

When making a support frame, it is advisable to use ready-made drawings that can be purchased or downloaded on the Internet. The dimensions of the forge/mini-forge are consistent with your own capabilities. It would be good if the drawings also included photos and/or videos of the forge in operation.

The support posts and frame are made welded, for which low-alloy steel 09G2S is usually used. It has sufficient strength, is easily and reliably welded, and is resistant to high-temperature corrosion. The pitch of the plate cells of the support frame is determined by the dimensions of the refractory. The finished frame is provided with holes for subsequent fastening of external lining elements.

Manufacturing of hearth and roof

When choosing refractories for arranging the upper part, they are guided by considerations of durability, the type of heated products, as well as the intensity of use of the forge. Fireclay and dinas are used most often.

Fireclay is manufactured according to technical specifications GOST 390-79. Buying uncertified products is very dangerous, since it is sometimes difficult to distinguish fireclay bricks by color from ordinary ones, which melt at 1200 ° C. Fireclay bricks suitable for masonry must be cream-colored and have low porosity. In this case, its weight is at least 5 kg. There are plenty of demo videos on the Internet that can help you identify quality products. The ShPD, ShA and ShB grades are suitable for the construction of the forge.

Download GOST 390-79 “Fireproof fireclay and semi-acid products for general use”

Forged products have long been used in industry and in everyday life. They build from them beautiful fences, decorate indoor fireplaces, canopies over front door. Forged flower stands find their place in the rooms of the house. All of these things can be made in a home workshop with some equipment.

A forge can heat up to high temperatures, so its main purpose is forging decorative metal products.

To forge metal, the main thing is to heat it to the required temperature. This is done using a blacksmith's forge. If on summer cottage If you have a barn in which you can set up a home workshop with a forge, it is recommended to make a forge with your own hands. Its different designs differ only in the type of fuel used. The remaining differences are not of fundamental importance.

Blacksmiths often use fuel in the form of coke; it gives a high temperature and produces little waste.

How to make a forge for heating metal before forging?

Before making a forge, you need to choose the type of forge. The closed-type forge has a chamber for heating the workpiece. This design is the most economical in terms of fuel costs. But the size of the workpieces has limitations associated with the size of the heating chamber.

In an open-type forge, fuel is poured from above onto the grate, and an air flow is supplied from below. The heated workpiece is placed on the fuel. This makes it possible to heat large-sized workpieces.

Holes are drilled into the steel plate grid and then inserted into the center of the table.

The sequence of actions when making a forge can be as follows:

The base of the forge is its table. This is where the construction of the structure begins. Its lid is made of metal 4-5 mm thick. The table height is 700-800 mm. Its surface is most often made in dimensions ranging from 80x80 to 100x150 cm. You can weld a frame from a corner into which to lay fire-resistant bricks and a grate. The grate is usually placed in the center of the table. It can be made from a cast iron frying pan or from a steel plate 8-10 mm thick, in which holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled.
The grate is inserted into the hole in the table and lined with refractory bricks. The height of the table is made convenient for home handyman, usually to the level of his waist.
An air blowing mechanism is installed. It can be foot operated, but it is better to use an electric fan. An old vacuum cleaner is often used for this purpose. Its power is quite enough to produce a jet of air of the required strength. It's good if there is a speed controller. If it is not there, you can install an additional valve to regulate the air supply. Instead of a vacuum cleaner, some craftsmen use a manual siren drive.
The whole structure comes together. You can start testing.
Fuel is poured onto the grate. First, wood chips and larger firewood are placed, then coke is added. The blower is turned on, the workpiece is placed on the coke. You can also add a little coke on top of the heated iron. Then a small arch with a huge temperature inside it forms in its thickness. Instead of coke, it is quite acceptable to use wood waste.

A homemade forge can be supplemented with various devices inherent in industrial installations. Sometimes these devices cost practically nothing, but add convenience to work.

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Let's compare an industrial forge with a homemade device

Image 1. Diagram of an industrial forge.

Industrial forges include (Image 1):

Air supply nozzle. In our case, its functions are performed by a hose from a vacuum cleaner.
Fireproof bricks that accumulate and maintain temperature. IN homemade forge they can also be present on the desktop.
The grate bars that hold the fuel. IN homemade version they are usually present too.
Socket for loading solid fuel. This device can be equipped with a homemade forge if it is often used in the work of a home craftsman.
The bricks that make up the frame. IN homemade device They are not here.
A fan that supplies air to the furnace. In the homemade version, its role is played by an old vacuum cleaner. But you can also install a separate fan.
Metal frame holding the desktop. It is available in a homemade version.
Air chamber. It can eventually be made for a home forge.
Ash pan. A useful addition to a homemade forge for home use, if the forge is used frequently.
Air duct. To begin with, its functions in a homemade forge can be successfully performed by a vacuum cleaner hose.
Casing.

A forge is a workshop for manually processing metal blanks, primarily by heating and forging. Handicraft blacksmith shops are maintained by passionate masters of simple and artistic forging, who, through their hobby, preserve the traditions of the craft.

Forges are equipped with a hearth (forge) and an anvil. A huge amount of metal processing work is carried out in the forge: smelting, pouring molten metal into molds, forging, welding work, soldering of copper and brass, hardening, stamping, drawing, bending, torsion, embossing and others. Ready-made melting furnaces in this shop.

In one of the previous articles it was described by a talented craftsman. Here we will look at what kind of forge this master made with his own hands for the forge. Creating a homemade forge at home, practically in the yard, he used, as one of the forums aptly put it, a “minimalist-primitivist approach.” However, it should be noted that this approach turned out to be very effective.

The basis of the forge was a portable forge made of a pipe 1 cm thick, weight approximately 60 kg, bottom 1.5 cm. Cuts were made on the bottom surface with a grinder. Under the bottom there is a hollow part, to the base of which a pipe for supplying boost air is welded. The air is supplied from the vacuum cleaner. The furnace has a door to reduce heat loss.

An anvil is a piece of rail welded to the channels. On the side of the anvil there is a fastener for a vice, which can, if necessary, be installed for torsion and other work. The distance between the forge and the anvil is approximately 1 m, making it convenient to work.

Testing a coal forge shows how efficient the device is. The video shows that using a small amount of charcoal for testing, you can accelerate the oven to 1200 degrees.

Brief introduction:

About three years ago I decided to make a forge - I was tired of making handles and wanted to forge myself. I scoured the literature, the Internet, and asked old blacksmith friends. In general, to be honest, everything is unclear. Fans even make (!) a forge in the bathroom (!). They recommend vacuum cleaners, saucepans... But I need something small, but really “not on my knees”.

I already have experience, I make very good knives: I mainly use bearing steel, as it is cheap and accessible. Basic principles of building a forge:

As cheap as possible.
Maximum available materials.
Maximum convenience.

So, first, what is needed for a forge.

Materials.

1) Ordinary brick, either white or red - about thirty, I took from landfills and ruins
2) Metal grate. Metal pallets are best, cast iron is better. I was able to buy cast iron trays for the stove at a village store (hardware store). If desired, you can simply lay down the fittings, or weld the grate. Functionally, the coals will burn on it, so the thicker the better. The holes should be no larger than one to one and a half centimeters (otherwise the coals will fall through.
3) Anvil. Of course, a piece of rail will do. But the anvil is better. This is not only one of the most “costly” parts, but you won’t find anything. But I was lucky, I found it again in a village store. But if you sharpen for knives, then the rail is quite enough.
4) Fan. The most important thing is blowing. I bought thousands at the construction market for two and a half rubles - this is the second most expensive part, but quite affordable.
5) A sleeve made of aluminum foil - put it on the fan, and stuck a pipe from the water supply into it.
6) Water pipe, one and a half meters, diameter - s tin can from peas.
7) A can of peas - there is a hole on one side, on the other it is cut and bent, it acts as a structure that guides and reflects the air stream - to blow into the right place.
8) Large stump for installing an anvil.

All. Total budget costs (for 2010):

Anvil – 900 rub.
Fan – 2,500 rub.
Aluminum flexible sleeve – 80 RUR
Pallets 2 pieces – 160 rub.
Bricks are free, everything else is free.
Total: we fit into 4000 rubles easily.

How the forge works.

The forge is simple.
You need to: blow air from below, through the grill onto the coals. The workpiece lies on the coals and is heated. You can poke it into the coals. The sides are covered with brick. Dot. All.
Therefore (see Photo 1.) – first we lay out a rectangle from bricks. I did NOT worry about the topic “cement, refractory clay, etc.” - just PUT the bricks. If it moves, I’ll fix it. If it bursts, I'll replace it. I don’t need to forge gates, I need blades. Quite.

You can see in the top photo two rows of bricks... then we continue to lay out
The photo shows that a rectangle is made of bricks of different colors. True, it rests on an iron box - below left - but it was just a box, I used it too. Essentially these are two walls of bricks in two rows in the shape of a “P”. Width – to accommodate pallets. You can clearly see how I stupidly burned one of the pallets - I was trying to achieve a “white glow”. I achieved it. Is it necessary?
I put larger blocks at the head - I just found these, you can just make them out of bricks. Here is a front view of where to insert the blower pipe from.

Two layers of bricks, the pallets rest on them with their edges, the iron box below - do not pay attention - we consider it to be on the ground. Next we continue the walls and the end - just a few bricks up.
The pipe is a piece water pipe for blowing.
You can see how the blower pipe is inserted.

Top view: two more rows of bricks have been laid. In fact, almost everything is ready. But experience has shown that - since all this is in the open air - it is better to place the walls higher so that it does not get cold from the breeze. Therefore, I raised it a little higher (there is no photo, I just added two more rows of bricks. But this was this year, two years - that’s exactly what I forged in the photo).

Now - blowing.

In the next photo there is a fan on a wooden pallet (knitted together a quick fix) with an aluminum sleeve on. A fan costs money - but even if it’s an old vacuum cleaner or homemade bellows - it’s important that the air is supplied where it’s needed and conveniently. The pipe does not heat up.
Fan, purchased at the construction market.

It is important that the air supply should be from bottom to top; I placed a crushed tin can on the end of the pipe, which turns the air flow from horizontal to top - this is more than enough. Banks are free
The sleeve is put on and wrapped around the fan with wire. There is no tightness, everything is stuck, just to hold on. I'm not worried. In the next photo on Sun. case – fan output data. The crumpled end of the aluminum sleeve is clearly visible, where I put the pipe while working.
Fan output data.

As I said, next we take a tin can of peas. We put it on the pipe. The bent lid is a reflector, we direct it upward and we put the pipe under the pallets. We put the pipe into an aluminum sleeve, crumple it and tie it with wire. We turn on the blower. You need a switch, step on it with your foot - turn it off and on, so that it doesn’t blow in vain when you don’t need it - your hands are busy.

Next, a stump placed in a wheel disc is covered with sand. In principle, any such foundation should not be shaken. Place an anvil on the stump (a piece of rail or more massive pieces of iron) - and forward. All. This is what anyone already has - I managed to buy an anvil - together with the fan, these are the two biggest expense items. If I didn’t have the money, I would take a thick piece of channel or rail. The main thing is that everything is working.
And here is a general view of the forge in operation. If you need shelter from the wind, I add a brick wall. I need a long gauge (for example, I forged a one and a half meter spit from rebar) - I remove the bricks from the end - etc. Everything can be rebuilt in a minute.
Forge at work.

Good luck, guys! The forge is great. I forged knives for myself - the main thing is that your hands are free, and you really don’t have to lick your lips at other people’s notes - but make your own things. But that's a different story!

I forgot to add about safety: sprinkle sand around, when forging, ALWAYS have a bucket of water nearby (but do not drink during and after forging for about 20 minutes - your teeth will crack, I’m serious) - because pieces of cut off hot metal can fly far away and burn painfully. Covered clothing is a must - I'm wearing a rain jacket and an apron - glasses won't hurt either. Shoes - boots, pants outside, otherwise if a piece of metal flies in, you'll have to dance!