How to repair a plastic panel. We repair the hob - malfunctions of various models. Control problems

What do you need for daily cooking? High temperature and ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not many types of home “hearth”.

  • kerosene burner - 5 decades ago it was the main element in any kitchen;
  • a gas stove is by far the most popular “hearth”;
  • electric stove - can be a separate element or a built-in component of the kitchen.

Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian matter (that is, the hostess was only interested in the process of cooking), no one thought about appearance electric stoves

Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive device:

  • frame;
  • heating element (spiral or heating element in its own housing);
  • thermostat (not present in every model);
  • mechanical heating regulator (spiral resistance switch).

It was possible to repair such a stove with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easy to make with your own hands: nichrome wire was wound around an ordinary pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden mandrel. The steel rod was inserted into the chuck and the winding process was much faster.

Modern hobs

Then fashion trends came to the kitchen modern design, And simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen corners and furniture sets. Hobs have appeared that are built into the countertop.

Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they are distinguished by advanced functionality. The heating element is controlled using electronic controllers, there are various systems security. Most products are equipped with touch control panels; you won’t find a mechanical handle even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob do it yourself, you need to have basic knowledge of electronics.

Types of heating elements of a modern electric stove

The usual spiral in ceramic insulator holders has not been used for a long time. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect:

Once you understand the design of heaters, you can repair your own hob.

Hob malfunctions

If one of the burners does not work, you can survive it. But the breakdown of the entire slab is already a problem. You can take the equipment to a workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged money for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.

All faults can be divided into 3 groups

  • Breakage of heating elements: for spiral or halogen burners, this is more of a mechanical than an electrical problem; the parts are completely repairable. In extreme cases (for example, a halogen heater) a simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle; the problem may be in the electronics.
  • Failure of switching elements or conductors. These can be relays, contacts, thyristor switches. Refers to not the most complex elements during repairs.
  • Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without deep knowledge of electronics, it will not be possible to repair these elements. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.

Before you begin complex repairs, try to diagnose “problems” that can be fixed without disassembling the structure.

For example, check the power supply from the input circuit breaker before connecting the direct power cable from the panel (including the socket, if any). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the contact block of the stove.

If the control panel does not work, check that it is dry (if there are movable keys) and clean (in the touch unit). Often a layer of dried splashes simply prevents the touch buttons from “feeling” your fingers.

How to disassemble the hob

The most commonly used panels are those built into the kitchen worktop. The electrical appliance has an independent body with a decorative plane, under which heating elements are located. Carefully remove the panel and place it face down on a flat surface. Before starting disassembly, it is recommended to disconnect the power wires. It would not be amiss to remind you that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.

After carefully removing the cover, we gain full access to the " internal organs» panels. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements are located in the so-called working “trough” without dividing barriers. The illustration shows an option where “HiLight” type heaters are installed on all burners.

Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (band) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. Once the fault is localized, you can easily remove the unit for replacement or a more detailed check.

For example, you can remove a heater in an insulating casing, apply power to it, and check its functionality using the device.

Repair of direct heating hob (individual components)

Diagnosis of faults is carried out from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the electrical wiring and the functionality of the heating elements. Control of turning the heating filament on and off is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let this bother you. Doesn't matter power nutrition supplied by conventional relays, which are checked with a multimeter.

A burnt-out spiral (tape) is usually replaced entirely; this is not the most expensive element. As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for tape, and screw terminal connection for helix). This will allow the stove to work for a while. This “joint” will last for several days, so buy a new spare part as soon as possible.

Power relays cannot be restored; they definitely need to be replaced.

The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, this is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.

As for burnt wiring, you should select a wire with similar characteristics, make a complete harness, and replace it using end switches.

Before reassembly, contact groups are checked for strength and absence of thermal damage, cleaned and reassembled.

If after checking it turns out that everything power conductors and the elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain. DIY repair is possible only with specialized skills and a detailed electrical diagram.

If you know exactly what doesn't work electronic module, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to a branded workshop. It will be tested (for a small fee) on a stand, or in a similar model hob. You can install a repaired or new unit in place yourself.

For information:

Some craftsmen restore the functionality of the hob by changing the control circuit. For example, you can power the heating elements from a homemade manual control unit located outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats properly when connected directly, this method has a right to life.

Diagnostics and restoration of indirect heating panels

Repairing induction hobs can only be done by experienced electricians. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a normal violation of the operating mode.

Typical malfunctions of induction heating systems

  • The induction hob either does not turn on at all, or the power disappears immediately after starting operation. This may be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating plane, or the size does not match the diameter of the burner, the automation blocks operation. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
  • The same problem (wrong cookware) can result in the induction hob not working at full capacity.
  • The heater turning on independently may be due to contamination of the stove, or the presence of a massive steel (cast iron) object next to it.

Real malfunctions, not related to violations of the operating mode, appear in the inductive field generator circuit. As we have already noted, the winding fails extremely rarely.

Typical diagram in the illustration:

In fact, there is no space technology here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for obviously “burnt” radio elements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, there is no point in explaining the principle of checking the inductance generator; your level is sufficient for repair.

If you do not have sufficient experience, you will have to turn to the experts. In any case, repairing a separate unit will not cost as much as buying a new panel.

Causes of malfunctions

With the exception of minimum percentage real factory faults, most breakdowns occur due to violation of the connection and operation mode.

  • Unstable mains voltage damages electronics;
  • using cookware that does not match the size of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
  • Impacts and spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks and chips through which moisture penetrates into the housing.

But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.

Video on the topic

Today, it is common to use electric, gas and induction hobs for cooking. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages, as well as the nature of the malfunctions. Next, we will tell you what types of equipment breakdowns happen, the reasons for their occurrence, as well as how to repair the hob yourself.

Electrical surface

First, let's talk about how to repair an electric hob and what problems this version of the stove may have. Most often, owners are faced with a situation where the hob does not work or one of the burners does not heat up when the power is connected.

In this case, the repair comes down to the following steps:


Often, finding a breakdown of an electric hob with your own hands is not difficult if you know how to use a multimeter. If you do not have this device, you can use indicator screwdriver, which will show the presence of voltage in a certain section of the circuit.

In addition, I would like to tell you why the hob may stop working, so that you know the cause of the malfunction and how to repair each one. So, among the main breakdowns, the most common are the following:


The first option is a defect from the manufacturer, which sometimes happens, as we were convinced of from one of the reviews on the Internet, which said that the Ariston electric hob cracked on its own and the victim was replaced with a new one under warranty. However, another explanation for the malfunction is more common - improper operation, which is described in detail in the instructions for the equipment. In the latter case, repairing the hob will be expensive and only through your fault.

How to repair equipment yourself

Induction cooker

If your induction hob is not working, there may also be several reasons for the malfunction. Here is a review of the main faults and how to repair them yourself:


Instructions for repairing an induction cooker are provided in the video:

How to repair an induction hob

Gas stove

Well, the last option for equipment that can fail is a gas stove. If your gas hob is not working, there are not many reasons for the malfunction. Usually problems arise with the piezoelectric element and the nozzle from which the gas is supplied.

So, for your attention, the causes of breakdowns and how to repair the hob with your own hands:

That's all the main malfunctions of a gas hob. Sometimes incorrect operation can be caused by improper installation of kitchen appliances. We recommend that you check it out with your own hands!

Complete instructions for cleaning injectors

Finally, I would like to summarize that most often an electric hob does not work due to a failed fuse or broken contact. The control unit that breaks down least often is difficult to repair yourself. We hope that now you know why this equipment breaks down and what to do to repair it yourself!

Related materials:

Previously, almost all household appliances were classified as freestanding. However, progress does not stand still: now you can find many built-in items.

Glass ceramic hob

A real find for many users was the hob - essentially the same stove, only smaller. This equipment can be gas, or maybe electric. Among the latest options, users prefer glass-ceramic models, which are not only powerful, but also have an attractive appearance.

Creative surface design

Gas hob with nothing but no built-in oven no different from regular stove. To connect it, you only need a constant gas source and a fuel supply hose. The panel can be easily placed on a cabinet. It is compact and does not take up much space, which makes the appliance indispensable in small kitchens.

Gas hob

Like any household appliance, the hob is susceptible to various types of problems. One of the most common is non-working burners. The occurrence of this type of malfunction is typical for both electric and gas models. You can carry out repairs yourself or by calling a mechanic. However, craftsmen can often charge a lot of money for a generally simple job.

Let's figure out why such problems occur and how to repair hobs yourself. Each type has its own characteristics, which will be discussed.

Power relays providing power to heating elements

For what reasons can problems occur?

The situation when the ignition system fails is one of the most common. The situation applies to both electric and gas hobs. It occurs in panels that have been in use for five years. For new ones, this is rather the exception than the rule. The reasons for failures may be the following:

  1. The electrical ignition is malfunctioning.
  2. Weak gas control.
  3. The gas burner is clogged. This can be either cleaning product residues or food debris that has gotten under the gas burner lid.
  4. The surface of the panel is flooded with water.
  5. The button to turn on the current or gas supply is faulty.

Problems with the ignition system

Let's say the hob is connected to electrical network, but the button for turning on the burners does not work. This happens if the power supplied through the wires is not enough to operate. This happens in houses with poor power supply, or when the hob is connected to a tee. In this case, an electrical voltage stabilizer will come in handy. When electrical appliances are connected to it, it begins to evenly distribute energy between all equipment. In this way, it is possible to provide the 220 volts necessary for the panel to operate. Also, a voltage stabilizer will minimize the risk of combustion electrical appliances in case of a power surge or short circuit.

Electrical voltage stabilizer

The following symptoms may indicate problems:

  • When the button is pressed, the burner does not turn on.
  • The candles sparkle when turned on, but the burners do not light up.
  • The panel turns off after releasing the start button.

Repairing an electrically powered hob is possible in several ways.

Cleanliness of the slab

Contamination of the stove, especially the ignition mechanism, is the most common cause of stuck buttons. It occurs after food splashes or boils over during cooking. Over time, dirt hardens, clogging the mechanism and the burners themselves. Solving this problem is quite simple: wipe the surface and clean the nozzle with a needle. This will free the burner from burnt marks and other particles clogging it. Once everything is dry, turn the panel back on and check if the stove will work.

Diagram of the structure of a burner from an electric stove

Problems with candles

When the candles sparkle yellow or orange, this is a sure sign that the power supply is broken. If you notice sparking of the spark plugs, then in this case you should disassemble the panel to get to the electronic filling of the device. You must proceed as follows:

  1. Unplug the hob.
  2. Using a screwdriver and other available tools, remove the top cover.
  3. Now disconnect the contacts from the power supply.

Thus, you can replace the unit: just take the broken one and show it to the sales consultants in the store, who will offer a working part.

You can make sure that the problem is with the unit by turning on the hob in the dark. If the spark blue color, this means the unit is working; if it is yellow or orange, it requires replacement.

Sparking yellow or orange light can also be due to oxidation of the spark plug rod. The problem is solved by replacing the faulty part. It is worth noting that such problems are extremely rare and occur only where for a long time the concentration of moisture in the air exceeds all necessary standards.

This can also happen if you give transfusions too often. Water particles can penetrate inside the panel, causing droplets to fall on wires or microcircuits. In this case, quick and high-quality drying will help, otherwise the candle rod may oxidize. Otherwise, the wires will become rough and can easily break, as a result of which you will have to completely replace the electronic filling of the hob.

Internal structure of an electric hob

Gas control repair

Such problems are mostly typical for hobs that have been used for a long time. The burners either take too long to light or go out after releasing the knob. The cause of this type of problem is a clogged thermocouple. This mechanism is responsible for supplying gas to the burner. If the burners go out quickly, disassemble the burners, find the thermocouple and clean them using available items. An ordinary wire, needle or knife will do here.

If the measures taken do not bring the desired effect, then perhaps the reason is a malfunction of the thermocouple or magnetic valve itself. These parts will have to be replaced.

Thermocouple

DIY induction hob repair

The induction model is considered one of the most high-tech and advanced on the world market. However, it is also not immune to all sorts of problems. Often, the heating quality of a particular cookware depends on its type. So, the burner does not turn on. Problems may include:

  • We turned on the panel, but as soon as we released the button, it went out. In this case, the reason is not a breakdown of the ignition at all. Many induction cooktops have defense mechanism, responding to the diameter of the cookware installed on the burner or its type. When you remove the cookware from the burner, it also turns off, and in this case nothing extraordinary will happen.
  • Interruptions when turning on the burners. This may be due to surface contamination. The most common cause of such problems is salt. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth and dry the hob, after which the device will be completely at your disposal.
  • The burner does not turn on. In this case, all that remains is to disassemble the panel and check the contacts. If one of the wires or fuses has burned out, you will have to replace these parts with serviceable ones. If the wiring is broken, you can solder it yourself, but it is better to entrust such delicate work to professional craftsmen.

Internal structure of an induction hob

Gas hob repair

IN in this case you won’t have to spend a long time figuring out the reason for the sudden breakdown of the hob, because gas models They have a rather simple and therefore intuitive design. Here, manufacturers use much less electronics and microcircuits, so repairing a gas hob if it does not light will be extremely simple.

If the burners do not light or burn very weakly even at maximum settings, we repair the equipment according to the following scheme:

  1. for contamination, especially electric ignition.
  2. If you find a large stagnation of liquid or debris, try to clear everything with a needle or a thin, sharp stick.

In most cases this will be quite enough. If the measures taken do not result in the equipment operating again, check electrical circuit for serviceability.

The reason that the hob burners do not light may also be a delay or blockage of the gas supply. In this case, no repairs are required: just check the gas pipe.

If gas continues to flow when the tap is open, but the burners do not light, clean the nozzles from debris or moisture. This can be done either with a long needle or with a cotton swab. To do this you need to do the following:

  1. Remove the lid from the burner.
  2. Carefully remove the burner from the stove.
  3. We insert the sharp tip of a needle, straightened paper clip or wire inside the nozzle and carefully remove all stagnant debris: food particles, burnt marks and other contaminants.

Now all that remains is to check how well the gas supply works. Remember: you cannot check without putting the iron burner cover in its place. The main thing here is to carry out preventive maintenance in a timely manner and prevent the food being prepared from boiling over, and most importantly, do not fill the nozzles while washing the stove, when the remnants of the cleaning agent, settling under the burners, cause clogging.

Cleaning the gas burner

There are more and more appliances in the house, and willy-nilly you begin to think that it would be nice to be able to fix even simple damage yourself. To help, this article will discuss a simple DIY hob repair. Please note - if the equipment is under warranty, it is better not to mess with it at all. All that is possible in this case is to replace the power cord. In other cases, it is better to contact the service. Well, if there is no warranty for a long time, you can try to repair the hob yourself.

The hob (surface) is the name given to electric and induction hobs with a ceramic or glass-ceramic coating. Under this coating there are heating elements - burners. These burners can be of different types:

As you can see, the burners are different, they are used for cooking various processes, but the general structure of the hobs is the same. To make it easier to look for breakdowns when repairing a hob, you need to know how the equipment works.

Hob device

The main components of the hob are the burners and the control panel. Each burner has contacts for connection and a control relay (thermal relay). Through contacts, the burner is connected to the control panel, and the thermostat monitors the surface heating temperature and turns off/on the power. Problems with burners are most often associated with incorrect operation of the telecontrol or loose/burnt contacts.

The control unit and the burners are connected to each other using wires. This is another source of problems. You can deal with breakdowns of these devices without special skills. You will also need a soldering iron. Since if any element is damaged, it will be necessary to buy an equally good one and install it in its place. When carrying out this work, you should not rely on memory. It's best to take pictures of everything before starting work. Later in the process, also take photos periodically. In any case, every time before you change something in a node, take a photo of it. It will be easier to install a new element or replace the old one.

The most difficult thing to understand is the breakdown of the control unit. This requires serious knowledge of circuit design. If they are not there, it is better to consult a specialist on this issue.

The location of the parts and their shape may be different and depend on the manufacturer and model, but in general the structure of the hob with electric burners is very similar.

Control problems

The most difficult case is problems with the control board. There is little you can do on your own. How to understand that the control unit is at fault? There is no signal when pressing buttons. If the power is turned on, but then when setting operating modes there are no sounds or visible changes there is no condition, most likely the problem is in the management. In this case, repairing the hob consists of simple steps.

If the stove does not listen to you, first thoroughly clean the surface - dirt can cause this behavior. Next, you should check your power settings. Too much low voltage on the network may affect control operation.

The control panel is the most difficult area to repair

If the voltage is normal and there are no changes, we try to restart the programs. To do this, turn off the power to the hob. If it is connected through a plug with a socket, remove the plug. Switching off with a button is not enough. If you connected the stove through the terminal block, it is easier to turn off the machine on the panel. The stove must remain in a de-energized state for at least 10 minutes. Then you can turn it on and try again. If there was a simple control glitch, this helps, but if the problem is more serious, it doesn’t. If all actions do not bring results, call a specialist.

Do-it-yourself hob repair: what to do if the burner does not turn on

If the burner does not turn on, there may be several reasons:

  • burning or weakening of contacts;
  • thermal relay malfunction;
  • problems with the wires going to this burner;
  • heating element burnout.

All these problems can be fixed with your own hands. Hob repair begins with its showdown. It must be unplugged and disconnected from the countertop. Transfer the hob to a table covered with a clean cloth, turn it glass side down, unscrew the fastening bolts located on the sides, carefully, holding the ceramics, turn them over and remove the ceramic panel. This way we get access to the insides and can repair the hob with our own hands.

The first thing to do is inspect the wires, which go to the non-working burner, checking contacts. Violation of the integrity of the wires and burning of contacts is very common reason breakdowns. In private homes, wiring can be chewed by mice, and contacts can burn due to poor quality assembly. If everything is visually in order, we pull the wires, checking the quality of the contact. If traces of soot are visible somewhere, we disassemble the contact, clean it to bare metal, pack it back, install it and clamp it well. The last stage of checking wiring and contacts is measurement. We take a multimeter, check the wires for integrity (we call) and for insulation breakdown (on the body and among themselves).

If no abnormalities are found in the wiring, inspect the thermal relay. It is located next to the burner (electromechanical), covered plastic cover. In some models, the relays are located in the control unit (electronic). Then, in order to determine which relay is responsible for heating the burner we need, we track it through the wires.

If the relay is electromechanical, pry off its cover with a screwdriver and inspect the contacts. There may be charred, bent or fused contacts. It must be replaced. If the relay is electronic, there is no point in opening it. We measure its resistance and compare it with the serviceable ones standing nearby. There is a deviation - a replacement is needed.

If everything is fine with the relay, it is possible burnt burner. To check, measure the resistance. If it is large or tends to infinity (break), the problem is in the spiral, heating element, etc. To find a replacement, look for the burner number (written on its body). With this number we go to the store or search on the Internet. Next, repair the hob - replacing the burnt burner. We unsolder all the wires, remove them, install a new one, and connect.

If it doesn't turn on at all

If the equipment does not turn on at all, immediately check the voltage. If the voltage is low, the hob may not turn on. To avoid such situations in the future, it is advisable to install a stabilizer. This will significantly extend the life of the equipment, since electronics are very sensitive to power quality, and electronics are the most difficult to repair (and more expensive).

If the voltage is normal, we will continue repairing the hob inspecting the power cord. Oddly enough, many breakdowns are associated with its damage - frayed, bent, crushed, insulation burst/melted, etc. First, we inspect the cord (disconnecting it from the network), then we check for the integrity of the wires and for insulation breakdown (each wire to the ground and to each other).

Next step - checking the contact in the terminal block. A loose or oxidized contact can also cause the hob to not turn on. What to do in this case? Unscrew the contact, clean it from oxides, and tighten it well again.

If the stove still shows no signs of life, find fuse. It stands at the entrance, burns out during power surges - to protect more expensive parts from damage. It can look different, but most often it is a glass or ceramic tube with metal caps on the edges. Some types of fuses are shown in the photo below. There may be such options.

We found the fuse, then take a multimeter and measure its resistance. It should be small. If the device shows an open circuit (infinitely high resistance), the fuse has blown. Another way is to put the multimeter in test mode and touch the probes to both ends of the fuse. The device is silent - it has burned out.

We take out the blown fuse and replace it with a similar one. Exactly a similar one - with the same parameters (indicated on the case). It is not recommended to install a “bug” or one with less sensitivity - with the next power surge the breakdowns will be much more serious.

Of the easy checks, there is only one left - check is the food arriving? from the terminal block to the control unit. Maybe the wiring is damaged or the contact is loose/lost somewhere. Do this again using a multimeter. We check the wires for integrity (you can do this by testing, or you can by measuring the resistance) and the presence of insulation breakdown (on the body and between each other). If all parameters are normal, you can turn on the power and carefully measure the voltage at the input of the control unit. The voltage is normal, but the hob still does not turn on - the problem is in the control unit. Further repairs to the hob are related to this unit.

Increasingly, instead of a stove, a hob and a separate oven are installed in the kitchen. Built-in appliances fit better into the interior and have more modern look. Today we will talk about how to repair similar equipment, namely hobs. They are electric, induction and gas. Each type has its own damage, but there are some common points. Learn more about hob repairs different types we'll tell you further.

Electric hob repair

In case of any breakdown of the electric and induction hob, the first thing to do is to check whether the power supply is normal. They start with basic things.

Only after you have checked all these parameters should you move on. Repairing a hob should begin by determining the exact nature of the malfunction. From this we can guess what could be the reason.

Disassembling the hob

In order to continue to repair the hob with your own hands, you need to turn it off and dismantle it, then disassemble it and remove it front panel. We turn off the power on the panel by turning off the machine and the RCD on this line. If you used a cord when connecting, remove it from the outlet. After that, we insert a sharp object into the gap between the hob and the countertop and lift it.

By removing the ceramic plate we gain access to the electrical components

If you connected the hob directly or through a block, you need to unscrew the wires. To do this, remove (lift or unscrew) the cover that covers the wires. Before removing them, sketch or better yet take a photo of how the wires are connected. This will make it easier to put everything back in place.

After this, the hob is transferred to the table (covered with a clean cloth so as not to scratch the front panel) and laid face down.

Problems with burners

If all the burners do not heat up, there may be problems with the power supply, but we would have already identified them. What else could it be? The power circuit fuse has blown. This happens during power surges. Find where it is installed and inspect or call, replace if necessary. It costs very little, and is easy to replace - pull the old one out of the holders and install the new one.

If problems with heating the burners began immediately after installing the hob, the reason may be that the wire selected was of insufficient cross-section. Read this article and choose the correct section, connect a new cable or cord.

If one of the burners does not heat up (or heats up weakly), the following faults may be the cause:


Most often, various problems with burners are associated precisely with a malfunction of the temperature sensor or control relay. If one burner does not turn on, after some time it turns off spontaneously, on the contrary, it does not turn off until you turn it off from the network... all this and other similar problems are caused by the incorrect operation of these sensors on a specific burner and you should look there first. There is another option - problems with the control (processor). But they will be described further.

Touchpad problems

Sometimes a malfunction of the hob is caused by incorrect operation of the touch panel. You can understand that this is the case by hearing. Its proper operation is accompanied by sound signals. If they are not there, then something is wrong. The panel does not respond. This may be because the surface and panel are dirty and simply cannot understand that they are being accessed. In this case, you need to wash the panel, wipe it, then try everything again.

Sometimes the control board can malfunction. To fix the problem, turn off the power (turn off the power completely by removing the plug from the socket or turning off the circuit breaker on the panel). We wait 20-30 minutes and turn it on again. A full reboot occurs, perhaps the problem will be solved.

One of the hob control panel options

If all this does not help, you need to disassemble the surface, check the power supply in series, then the existing element base - capacitors, varistors, transformer. If there are no problems here, the repair of the hob is complete for you, since the remaining cause is the microprocessor, but testing it is a job for specialists.

Repair of induction panels

Peculiarity induction panel is that the heating is turned on only if there is a special cookware on the burner. It stops immediately after the dishes are removed. That is, you can check whether the burner is working only by placing suitable cookware on it. But, if there are any problems, a message about the device status and an error code are displayed on the control panel. We look at its decoding in the instructions, so we determine the approximate nature of the damage.

It only heats up when there is a certain type of metal utensil (magnetic)

If the surface does not start working

If the stove does not work at all, you should start repairing the induction hob, as described above, by checking the power supply, cord, contacts, etc. First you need to exclude the most simple options, and then look for damage further.

If nothing is found during inspection, and the induction hob still does not work, turn it off, transfer it to a table with a cloth spread, lay it face down, remove the glass-ceramic panel from it (unscrew the fixing bolts). Most problems with induction furnaces associated with the power block and breakdown of elements. This is due to voltage surges and to prevent such problems, it is better to install a stabilizer.

We begin the test by checking the continuity of the power unit. This diode bridges, transistors and fuse. There is only one fuse - it is easy to find and check.

These are holders for installing a fuse - a glass bulb with a wire inside

Diode bridges and transistors are located next to the radiator and burner control keys. We turn the multimeter into dial mode and check the diode bridges and transistors.

Hob repair: calling transistors and diode bridge

If there is a breakdown, we will hear the device beeping - this element is faulty and must be replaced. We unsolder the old one and install the new one. If it is impossible to find a spare part from the same company, select one with similar characteristics. But there may be problems when soldering, since they may have different dimensions. This is not so important, the performance is important.

When replaced, it may not turn out very nice

After replacement, we check all power circuits for breakdowns and short circuits. We especially carefully check the part that is associated with broken elements - there may still be failed elements. If there is no other damage, we assemble the panel, connect it, and test it.

For a detailed repair process for an AEG (Elektrolux) induction hob, see the following video.

Other problems

The design of this technique is more complex and possible malfunctions, like the reasons, there are many. Here are the most common problems and methods for eliminating them.

Most problems can be avoided by carefully studying the operating instructions and powering the equipment through a stabilizer. Then repairing the induction hob may not be necessary at all.

Gas hob repair

In a gas hob, you can only repair the electric ignition and gas control system yourself. In principle, the main problems arise with them. Since a gas hob with electric ignition is also connected to electricity, when common problems with the electrical part (piezo ignition does not work at all), first check the presence of power in the outlet, inspect the integrity of the wire. If everything is fine here, you can go deeper.

You can repair your gas hob yourself

The electric ignition button does not work (no spark)

Electric ignition is a convenient thing, but periodically the spark stops “jumping” and the fire on some burner does not ignite. You can light it by pressing the button of another burner. They are connected in parallel and when you press one, there is a spark on all burners. But this situation is abnormal and the spark must be restored. Repairing the hob in this case is not very difficult. There are several reasons:


What else can be done is to check the contacts and soldering. If necessary, tighten the contacts or clean them from dirt, solder them, if cold ones are found, re-solder them. How to determine if a solder is cold? If you pry the tin with something hard (the end of a multimeter probe, for example), it moves or flies off, and there may be cracks in it. In this case, heat up the soldering iron and melt the solder again.

After ignition, the flame on the burner goes out

In many modern gas stoves or cooking surfaces have a gas control function. Near each burner there is a sensor that monitors the presence of a flame. If there is no flame, the gas supply stops. The function is useful, but sometimes problems arise - after ignition, when you release the power handle, the flame goes out. The fact is that the sensor - thermocouple - is dirty or faulty and “does not see” the flame.

Where is the thermocouple located in a gas stove?

First you need to try cleaning all the sensors. During use, they quickly become overgrown with grease, so they require periodic cleaning. First, turn off the power, remove the burners, remove the handles, and unscrew the front panel. We find a thermocouple on a non-working burner. This is a small metal pin located close to gas burner. In some models of gas hobs it can simply be inserted, in others there is a lock. You need to remove the sensor from its socket and clean it of dirt. Use regular kitchen dishwashing chemicals or something stronger. It is important to achieve results. We wash the sensors, dry them, and put them in place. You can check your work.

Sometimes it happens that even after cleaning some burners do not work. This means that the thermocouple has failed. In this case, repairing a gas-powered hob involves replacing the thermocouple. You already know how to get to it, but it can be turned off simply: you need to remove the corresponding wires from the block. We take out the old sensor and install a new one. Reinstall the cover and check the operation. That's all, actually.

One important point: If your equipment is under warranty, you should not repair it yourself, otherwise you will be denied warranty repairs.