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How to make a toilet in the country. Country toilet - the simplest version of the construction of the structure. We make a door to the country toilet

Most often, the design of a “place for reflection” is not shelved. Usually this is a simple and unpretentious structure (it’s good that it doesn’t blow away with a gust of wind), consisting of a wooden house and cesspool. However, there are enthusiasts who approach this issue creatively, with soul and create a real masterpiece on their site, bringing the country bathroom closer. In today's review, we will tell you what can be country toilet and what technical solutions can make it comfortable, and your care for it the least tiring.

As you probably noticed, closets in the country can be of different forms: in the form of a house, a booth, a booth, with and without fences, with and without cesspools. With a certain carpentry and locksmith skill, it will not be difficult to build a comfortable bathroom in your country house. Moreover, modern technologies allow you to create a toilet without building a cesspool. How? Consider the options.

Advice! If your house is equipped with a water supply network and sewerage, then the easiest option is to build a so-called "water closet". The entire drain system is mounted inside the house, and the toilet itself is outside, which will free up space in country house and get rid of odors.

You can use the water closet only in the warm season. In winter, the water in the tank will simply freeze.

Peat toilet: an option for an amateur

An interesting kind of toilet, where waste must be covered with peat. For this, a container with peat mass is specially installed next to the tank.

Important! It is desirable to connect ventilation to the toilet.

These toilets are Lately are becoming increasingly popular: models such as Ekomatic (Ekomatic), Piteko (Piteco), Biolan (Biolan) are already familiar to most "advanced" summer residents. The liquid part is simply drained into a special tank that needs to be emptied.

dry closet ecomatic

dry closet biolan

Powder closet: the fastest in assembly and installation speed

Powder closet can be installed in any corner or area. Under it, you do not need to dig a cesspool, it is enough to use a simple bucket or other container.

The whole structure consists of a toilet seat, where the toilet stand is installed.

With repeated use, the waste is sprinkled with ordinary wood shavings. Finished structures are equipped with a special sprinkling mechanism.

Advice! Typically, this design is used in areas where, due to the level ground water it is impossible to dig a full-fledged cesspool. However, if you want to use the powder closet not outdoors, but indoors or in a closed perimeter, then it is better to provide a ventilation system.

Dry closet: expensive, but effective

Typically, a fairly expensive system is used in street cafes or in crowded places. However, there are also more compact designs that are quite suitable for a country house. The principle of operation of the dry closet is simple. Chemicals are pumped into a special container where sewage falls, which work according to the principle treatment facilities.

Containers require cleaning, so you will have to "go broke" for periodic maintenance of the dry closet.

Country toilet-bucket: simple and cheap

An even simpler version of a country closet. One of the most accessible and inexpensive. It works on the principle of a night vase, just a little more in volume. A disposable bag is usually placed inside. Sometimes they don’t do this and simply disinfect the container after each use. These bucket toilets are very common in nursing homes. After all, it is very often difficult for older people, due to their age, to get to the bathroom on their own. A country toilet-bucket can be a great replacement for an outdoor toilet in the cold season.

Chemical toilet: an interesting version of the odorless toilet

Bucket toilet variation. However, in this case, the waste cannot be used as, as it has already reacted with chemicals and can be dangerous for plant nutrition.

Toilet in the country with a cesspool: a classic of country life

A classic country bathroom is an outdoor toilet with a dug out cesspool. What designs do craftsmen come up with to turn a classic latrine into an interesting decor element!

There are two types:

Option 1. Non-portable pit latrine: a waste pit is built with a concrete base, equipped with filters so that the drains do not disturb the ecosystem of the site.

Option 2. Cesspool with a portable house. After filling one pit, it is conserved, pumped with special substances for decay, covered with metal sheets. And the house is transferred to another place, where a new closet is being dug.

Backlash closet: a universal solution for home and street

Such a toilet can be installed even in the absence of a sewerage system. This is an improved version of the classic cesspool. Such a system necessarily provides for installation, only without the sewerage we are used to.

The advantages of such a toilet are that at first glance they are no different from ordinary ones. All odors are tightly hidden inside the container.

Important! The cesspool from the toilet towards the common drive goes with a slight expansion, and the bottom must be made with a slope.

Country toilet with shower: ideal for hot weather

This is a more extended version of the water closet, the only difference is that not only the toilet is equipped, but also a shower, possibly or a washbasin. It is a high-grade open-air.

Which toilet is better to choose for a summer residence: with or without a cesspool

Of course, it all depends on the financial possibilities. Sometimes the option with a cesspool will be ideal, in some cases it will be possible to get by with a bucket.

Like we said, a cesspool isn't for everyone. suburban area. In this case, other alternative methods and solutions can be used.

Types of models of toilet bowls for a country toilet

Never put in an outdoor toilet. The fact is that under the weight of the entire structure, taking into account the weight of a person, the wooden base of the toilet may not withstand. That is why it is better to use a porcelain and plastic toilet. require mandatory connection to water supply systems and a drain structure.

Provide pipe branches from all water points in advance. For example, a water closet provides for the removal of sewage into a septic tank or cesspool.

Advice! A self-made tank involves the mandatory sealing of joints, usually this concrete rings 100 - 150 mm thick, after their creation, the hatch is covered with a slab or sheet, which can be removed, if necessary, to pump out the drains with a sewage machine.

Plastic and ceramic toilet

The most versatile toilet of all is the plastic one. It is quite light, yet durable. You can embed the bottom yourself if you need to install directly above the septic tank. They are also easy to wash, there are the most different variants colors and shapes.

Ceramic toilets are slightly more expensive, but they also look more solid. Domestic models cost an average of about 2,000 thousand rubles.

Which is better to buy a country toilet for an outdoor toilet

there must be fasteners at the bottom of the device, otherwise it will be problematic to install it on;
the device should be as light as possible, and the mechanisms should be simple;
the hole at the bottom should be wide to make it easier to clean.

What means can be used to eliminate the smell in a country toilet with a cesspool

In almost every variant of a country toilet, it is necessary to arrange a forced one, perhaps, except for chemical ones. That is why it is better to take care of this even at the stage of planning the closet.

If the ventilation pipe was not originally provided, then you can install it yourself. To do this, use a regular or piece metal pipe, it is important to strengthen it in a cesspool. And bring the other half to the roof of the toilet, the edge should protrude. In the warm season, the sun will heat the pipe, and it will work like a hood .

Important! Under no circumstances should bleach be added to the cesspool, peat toilets! It will kill all the necessary bacteria that are working hard to process the waste.

bioactivator biosept

They are quite simple to use: the agent must be diluted in water according to the instructions, poured into a cesspool, and then the bacteria will already work independently without your help.

We list the most popular names:

"Intavir";
"Successful";
"Clean house";
"Sanex";
"Micropan";
"Doctor Robik";

The main advantage of using such products is their environmental friendliness, safety for the soil, as well as an additional deodorizing effect.

How to choose a place for an outdoor toilet for a summer residence in accordance with the regulations

When choosing the location of a country toilet, it is important to consider many factors. This is, first of all, the neighborhood with natural water sources, wells. Sanitary buildings should be located no closer than 25 meters to a water source.

If the relief of the site is complex, then it is most correct to place the cesspool in a lowland, rather than on a hill, otherwise, runoff can spread into the soil of the entire site.

Install the toilet away from residential buildings, including neighboring ones, a gust of wind can carry an unpleasant “aroma” through the window to neighbors.

Advice! If you plan to use a sewer machine for cleaning drains, place the cesspool closer to the stop

If your site has a high level, any manipulations with digging cesspools are extremely contraindicated. Otherwise, you risk ruining the crop and ruining it. In this case, the only solution may be a sealed storage tank.

Country toilet projects - drawings with dimensions and photos

We propose to study the most interesting, in our opinion, drawings of country plumbing buildings, the implementation of which will not be difficult.

How to build a country toilet with your own hands: photos, drawings, video

It should be noted right away that it is better to do all the work once and then not return to this issue for many years. It is especially important to build a capital structure if you spend a lot of time at your dacha. If you do not want to spoil the design of the site by installing an ordinary toilet, then you can always hide it in the far corner behind the country house or come up with original design, which would allow it to harmoniously fit into the landscape.

The choice of location for the toilet and its design features

As a rule, the toilet is installed closer to the far border land plot, as there will be an unpleasant smell near the room, even if it is insignificant. But sometimes they use another option, making a cesspool not far from the house, and a free corner of the house is taken away to place the toilet, leading sewer pipe into the pit. Basically, this design is used in cases where water has been brought into the house and it is planned to install an insulating container designed to collect waste products.

Be that as it may, it is worth adhering to sanitary and epidemiological standards. They must be observed in order to protect yourself and the environment from negative consequences, such as soil contamination or infectious diseases.

If you are planning to install a cesspool, it is important that it is at least 30 meters away from water sources. Moreover, its depth should not reach groundwater.

If you are going to install a septic tank, then place it no closer than 15 meters from the house.

If you are going to use an insulated container that cleans out as it fills up, you can install it almost anywhere as the waste won't seep into the ground.

Also, an insulated container is suitable in cases where groundwater does not run very deep and it is impossible to make a cesspool in the ground.

Most often, the pits of the simplest toilet for a summer residence have an area of \u200b\u200babout 1 m 2. If the pit is round, then its diameter should correspond to about 1 meter. Its depth is 1.5-2 meters, depending on how the groundwater occurs.

Once you decide on a place for the pit, proceed to the choice of toilet design. First of all, you must take into account the weight of the future structure - the choice of material that you are going to use for construction largely depends on it. Moreover, the house itself should not be made very heavy, because over time, under its weight, the soil can begin to sag and the building is deformed and damaged.

Excellent as building materials wooden planks or bars or thin material - corrugated board and galvanized profiles.

If you decide to build a toilet booth out of bricks or logs, then you should think about the quality strengthening of the foundation. But there is no point in building such structures, since they will not be warmer than light buildings. Unless you have a need for thermal insulation of the room with the help of insulation, which has a small weight, for example, foam. This building will be warm, light, windproof in winter and not too hot in summer.

Having decided on the choice of material, you can begin to choose the size of the booth. If you decide to build a country toilet with your own hands, then we offer you the following drawings.

As a rule, a standard toilet, as you noticed in the drawings above, has a height of 2.3 meters, a width of 1 meter, and a length of 1.3-1.5 meters. But these dimensions can vary, and should not be considered as a dogma. Be that as it may, the room should be as comfortable as possible for all family members to be in it.

What you need to build a country toilet with your own hands

Having chosen the design and dimensions of the toilet, you need to buy Construction Materials. You can buy a metal or wooden "house" ready-made. If you decide to build it yourself, then be prepared for the fact that you will need the following materials:

wooden bars and boards;

fasteners - self-tapping screws and nails;

metal corners to reinforce the wooden frame;

roof covering material - corrugated board or slate;

door handle, latch or hook for closing;

wooden or plastic toilet seat with a lid;

foam for insulation and material for sheathing insulated walls: thin board, chipboard or plywood (if necessary).

For the device of the cesspool you will need:

crushed stone, cement, sand;
reinforcement for strengthening the foundation structure;
a metal chain-link mesh (intended for covering the pit) and metal pins or brackets for attaching it to the ground.

Also, instead of the grid and its plastering with concrete, you can use a brick, which will be lined with the walls of the pit. Moreover, for the device of the pit, concrete rings are often used, which have holes in the walls. Many summer residents prefer old rubber tires.

Another good environmentally friendly option would be a ready-made container - a septic tank. You can find the most different sizes, so you will choose the one you need, depending on the length of your stay outside the city and on the number of family members.

Of course, when building a country toilet with your own hands, you cannot do without special tools, so prepare in advance:

bayonet or shovel with a short and long handle;
a hand drill that will help when digging a pit;
perforator (if the site has rocky soil);
screwdriver or hammer;
grinder - "grinder" with discs for metal and stone;
jigsaw;
marking tool - tape measure, ruler, square, pencil, building level or marker.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands?

Of course, it’s worth starting with marking and digging a hole, which can be round or square (depending on which design scheme for the country toilet was chosen).

If you are planning to install a two-chamber plastic septic tank, then the hole is dug so that the inlet pipe is in the toilet cubicle, since a toilet seat will be installed on it. The neck of the second chamber - remains outside the room, as it is required to adjust the pumping of fecal matter.

Tanks can be of different shapes, since the shape and dimensions of the pit depend on this. The size of the pit must be made 20 cm larger than the capacity, since it is necessary to compact the soil around it as best as possible.

If the walls of the pit are finished with brick or concrete, it can be made square or round.

After you dig a hole of the required depth, at the bottom it is necessary to arrange drainage from stones, large rubble, fragments of bricks.

Then, by throwing on the walls, a concrete solution is applied. It is left to dry completely. The total thickness of the layer may be approximately 50-80 mm.

When the first sketched layer grabs, the walls are plastered to a perfectly even state with the same concrete mortar. Then wait until the plastered pit dries.

The pit is covered either with a finished reinforced concrete slab, or you can make it yourself. It will act as a foundation and a platform around the toilet.

Boards are laid on the pit itself. They should go beyond its limits by about 700-800 mm and be sunk into the ground to the level with the ground. They are treated with antiseptic agents. It is quite possible to replace such a wooden substrate with concrete columns.

Two holes are left on the surface for the cesspool and the installation of the toilet seat. Formwork is installed around them.

A dense polyethylene film is spread over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation.

A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which along the entire perimeter is enclosed in the formwork of the future foundation.

With regard to the height of the formwork of the holes, it must be exactly the same as the formwork of the entire foundation structure. When leveling the surface, formwork boards will act as beacons.

The concrete solution is mixed, after which it is poured onto the site, carefully leveled and left to dry. For the strength and durability of the concrete layer after the initial setting, you can iron the wet surface with dry cement.

After the site has matured, a toilet booth can be installed on it. On the hole, which is designed for pumping waste, you will need a hatch. You can buy it in the store or make it yourself. The hatch cover should be easy to close and open.

Another good option is a round pit made from tires. But do not forget that this type of hole cannot be used for a regular user. Such a toilet can only be operated in a dacha, and then if the owners come occasionally, for example, for the weekend, otherwise you will have to resort to pumping out waste very often.

To make a pit, a round pit is pulled out of car tires 150-200 mm larger than the diameter of the tires.

Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pit, having a thickness of 15-20 cm.

Further, tires are laid exactly in the center of the pit to the surface of the soil. As it is laid around the tires, a drainage layer of sand and gravel is filled up and well rammed. This process is carried out to the top.

When the tires are laid, it is recommended to arrange around the pit strip foundation. To do this, a trench breaks out along the entire perimeter of the future structure, about 500 mm deep, where concrete is poured.

The bottom of the trench is compacted, after which it is covered with sand of 50-70 mm. It also needs to be compacted and covered with a layer of rubble of exactly the same thickness.

Waterproofing is made of dense polyethylene.

Then you can weld a lattice from the reinforcement, install it and mount the formwork 100-150 mm above ground level, and then pour it with concrete mortar. Make a foundation of brick, and then plaster it with cement.

After the mortar has hardened, remove the formwork from the cement foundation, and level the brick on top. Further, roofing material is laid on its surface. It will separate the concrete surface from the wood.

Then the finished design of the country toilet is installed on the foundation, or it is built independently.

For the convenience of building on the foundation, the base-frame, consisting of powerful bars, is first fixed, and the rest of the structural elements are further mounted on it, depending on the model of construction that you choose.

It is worth noting another option for arranging a cesspool - metal barrels with a cut bottom. They are installed on top of each other and then act in the same way as in the case discussed above. A mixture of sand and gravel or a gravel mixture is tamped around the pipe.

It would seem that such a method is simple to implement, but it has many more disadvantages than advantages. metal barrels under the negative influence both from the outside and from the inside, they will quickly begin to corrode, and this toilet will not last long.

Do-it-yourself country toilet: building a house, photo

After the pit and the platform for installing the toilet are ready, you can proceed with the installation of the house according to the previously drawn up scheme.

It should be said right away that houses for a country toilet can have a variety of shapes. Many make them even in the form of a fabulous hut, and others may not immediately understand what kind of room fits so harmoniously into landscape design. Such a structure can be made with your own hands, having an idea of \u200b\u200bthe scheme for its assembly.

In the photo you will see an option partially made of logs, which give the structure a decorative effect, masking the purpose of the building.

In the diagram you see the basis for building a log house, only boards are used instead of logs. It is perfectly visible how the walls of the structure are assembled and the slopes of the roof rise. The internal space is distributed, and a place has been chosen for the toilet seat.

The next step will be the roof lathing, roofing and wall decoration using the selected material (both wood and metal can be used).

The house can be installed on a pit or used as a room for a dry closet.

This variant of the structure of the toilet was called the "hut". In this case, the house is built in the form of a triangle, and its side walls act as a roof. The form is extremely simple, so the construction process will not cause you any difficulty.

This design is easy to build, as well as easy to use - it is very stable and quite spacious inside.

In the photo you will see everything internal structure, the place of installation of the toilet seat and the crate of the walls-roof. Finishing of the front and rear walls has begun. You can put the “hut” house on a well-equipped cesspool, as in the above case, or use it as a room for a dry closet.

In this photo you see a house for a country toilet of a traditional form, which is found in many areas. However, even such a seemingly simple design you can decorate according to your preference. For example, a toilet in this area was made to look like a Japanese house. This is evidenced by the hieroglyphs on the tablet, which is suspended on chains, an additional roof and a Japanese lantern at the entrance. Moreover, inner space also kept in the same style.

This attitude to design suggests that even from such a structure as a toilet, you can make a real work of art if you put in a little more effort.

An approximate scheme of the building is shown in the photo. It clearly shows the cesspool, the installation of the structure of the toilet and the hatch for cleaning. This design is quite simple in the device and it is easy to build. However, in order for it to be reliable, it is necessary to achieve the rigidity of the ligaments of each of the parts among themselves. Internally, the space arranged above the cesspool may look like this during the construction of the walls. That is, a base of bars is installed directly on the foundation, on which the frame of the structure is subsequently fixed.

Upon completion of finishing the country toilet from the inside, the room will have a cozy and neat appearance, such as you see in the photo.

If you wish, you can come up with a different toilet design, but perform interior decoration needed from warm materials. Not recommended for decoration ceramic tiles because it cold material, and in winter the tile will also become slippery.

Dry closet in the countryside

If you cannot build a country toilet with your own hands or you do not have the desire or time to contact construction work then use the dry closet. This option will save you from having to dig a hole and from installing a house.

A biotoilet is nothing more than an autonomous toilet bowl that does not require either connection to branch communications or a separate room. It consists of two chambers, the upper of which acts as a toilet bowl, and the other is used for biological waste processing. In the lower chamber there are active substances that decompose feces, turning them into a homogeneous, odorless mass. The action of the bioactive liquid is enough for 10 days, after which the chamber is cleaned, the contents are poured into the soil or the central sewer.

The choice of disposal method depends on what substances were used in the dry closet. They come in three types: chemical, composting and microorganic. Each of them is ideal for a specific type of dry closet.

For composting, peat is used as an active substance. It is highly absorbent - 1 kg of peat is able to absorb 10 liters of liquid. Compost, which is odorless and obtained as a result of active processes, is perfect for fertilizing the garden.

As a rule, in the compost with this dry closet there are ventilation pipes that drain unpleasant odors during processing.

The work of a dry closet is based on the use of chemicals. It has an indicator that indicates that the container needs to be cleaned. Recycled waste is discharged into the sewer, and you do not harm the environment. For these models, there special means with non-freezing property.

The third type is a dry closet, in which microorganisms are responsible for the waste processing process, turning them into compost. The material obtained in this way is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for animals and soil, so it will not be difficult to dispose of it.

If necessary, you can install a dry closet in a normal room, which is located in the yard, and in winter bring it into the house, allocating a convenient place for these needs.

What biological agents are used for toilets

Owners of country houses with pit latrines on the site are offered special tools (they are similar to those used in dry closets).

As you can see, there are many ways to solve the problem of a toilet in a country house - you can always choose the most suitable option.

If you decide to make a country toilet with your own hands, then this article is for you. We'll cover everything you need to know, from right choice places before the installation of a cesspool and facilities wooden structure. You just need to be guided by the recommendations from the review in order to easily cope with the job.

How to organize work

To make a country toilet, you do not have to be a builder or a carpenter. The structure is simple, so its construction is within the power of any person. But there is whole line nuances, non-compliance with which can lead to many problems, so first of all you need to understand the installation rules. Only after that you can start working.

How to choose a seat

First of all, you need to choose correct location country toilet.

There are a few rules to keep in mind when choosing a construction site:

Distance from the toilet to the source drinking water must be at least 25 meters. Ideally, the farther away the well is, the better. You can’t put the structure closer, especially if your groundwater is located close to the surface;
It is better to locate the building from the house no closer than 5 m. This is due both to sanitary standards and the fact that if located close, unpleasant odors will penetrate into the house, especially in summer time when the windows are open. It is also advisable to take into account the prevailing wind direction in your area in order to put the toilet on the leeward side if possible;

You should also observe the indentation from the fence, the minimum distance is 1 m. If you put the structure close, the neighbors may sue you and you will have to move the building;
When deciding where to put the toilet, do not forget to consider the level of the site. It is necessary to put the building so that it is not located in the highest place. But it is also undesirable to build in the lowland, especially if in the spring you have water on the site.

If you have a closed cesspool, then do not forget to provide a place for the entrance of a sewage truck. And then often situations are obtained that the car simply cannot drive up.

Materials and tools

To build a frame toilet with a pit latrine, you need a simple set of materials. All necessary components are presented in the form of a table for clarity.

Material	Selection Guide
wooden block	It will form the frame of the structure. It is better to take options with a section of 40x40 mm or more to ensure strength and reliability. The most commonly used pine, its price is low, and reliability is enough for our work.
Board	For sheathing the structure, a board with a thickness of 32 or more millimeters is used. If desired, outside surfaces can be sheathed with a block house or imitation timber. But you can get by with a cheap board, especially if you want to carry out the process at minimal cost.
roofing material	For these purposes, you can use slate, metal tiles, flexible roof and any other suitable material. Some use a regular roofing material that is attached to a plank or oriented strand board deck.
Cesspool material	Just digging a hole and leaving it like that is highly undesirable: the walls can settle over time, and your toilet will fall or fail. For the pit, you can use tires from trucks or tractors, you can lay out brick walls, or you can make it from concrete rings (special sewer options reduced diameter)
Pipe for ventilation	It is best to use an ordinary sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm for these purposes. Its quantity depends on the height of the structure

As for the tool, you need such a set:

Hacksaw or power tool for cutting wood. Can be dispensed with manual option, it is much cheaper;
Shovel for digging a cesspool;
If you will be laying bricks, then you need a trowel and a container for preparing the mortar;
You can assemble the structure either with nails (you need a hammer) or self-tapping screws (you need a screwdriver). I prefer the second option for its reliability;

A tape measure with a pencil, a square and a level will help you take clear measurements and assemble an even design.

Digging a cesspool

This part of the work, for all its simplicity, takes a lot of effort, so it’s better to dig a hole not by yourself, but with 1-2 assistants in order to take turns resting.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

The configuration of the future pit is determined. If you will use wheels or rings, then you need a round recess. If the walls will be laid out of brick, then you can make a square version with a side of 100-120 cm. It is important to decide what type of pit will be, if the groundwater is close to the surface, then it is better to do it closed type so that waste does not fall into the soil;
The surface is marked and work begins. It is better to remove the top fertile soil layer separately to use it in the garden. Further, the soil is selected and either removed or evenly scattered to raise the level of the site or level the pits on the site;

The depth is usually about 2 meters. You don't need to do more. After the pit is ready, it is worth leveling the bottom and correcting the walls, if necessary;

If the walls are laid out of brick, it is better to make them square. Drawing a circle is much more difficult, but putting even sides is easier. You do not need the perfect quality of masonry, the main thing is to securely fasten the elements to the mortar and make the walls more or less even. At the bottom, you can leave holes for drainage;

Tire laying made even easier. They are neatly placed on top of each other and aligned. You don't need to attach them additionally. A slot can be made in the upper element so that you can then insert a hose to pump out the cesspool;

If concrete rings are used, then it is better to put them with a lift. Most often, two rings are used, the depth is just two meters;

If necessary, the bottom is concreted. Everything is simple here: the soil is leveled, a sand cushion of 10 cm is poured and compacted. A solution 5 cm thick is poured on top;
If you have an open option, then a drainage layer is poured onto the bottom. Everything is easy here: crushed stone of the middle fraction is taken and distributed in a layer of 20-30 cm over the surface.

Building a house

Now let's figure out how to make a toilet in the country with your own hands.

The process is simple and consists of the following steps:

Before you build a toilet, draw up a project with all dimensions. This will greatly simplify the workflow, because you will know all the parameters of each element. In addition, when you have a clear idea of the final result, the assembly is much faster and easier;

According to the drawing, materials are prepared. The bars are cut into pieces of the required size. If you have shed roof, then the front pillars should be 20 cm higher than the rear ones, this is the simplest version of the roof;
First of all, the base is assembled. The most important thing here is to make the structure even, for this, before fastening all the elements, be sure to check the diagonals. This is the easiest way to control the geometry and avoid distortion. It is best to fasten the parts with self-tapping screws;

To ensure the best reliability, it is desirable to treat the lower part with mining or other protective composition.

The base is set on the ground. Easiest to use 4 concrete blocks, which will exclude the contact of wooden surfaces with the ground and become a reliable support for the structure. I do not advise pouring the foundation, the blocks do an excellent job with the function of the foundation;

Attaching vertical posts. For work, it is easiest to use metal mounting corners, with their help you quickly and reliably connect the elements. When mounting, it is important to control the verticality of the racks using a level. If necessary, you can additionally fix the bar with temporary braces;

A toilet seat is being built. Everything is simple here: a frame 40 cm high and at least 50 cm wide is made from a bar. There are no special requirements, the main thing is to ensure the rigidity of the structure. For this part of the structure, the same bar is used as for racks;

Roof supports and frame for the door are attached. As for the bars on the roof, they should have an offset of 20 cm to cover the walls from precipitation. For doors, reinforcing the size of the future canvas is made. How it all looks assembled is well shown in the photo below;

The walls are sheathed with board. Everything is simple here, the main thing is to cut the material to size. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws or nails. It is better to use an edged board so that there are no gaps in the structure. The toilet is still outside, and it is undesirable for the wind to walk there;

Assemble and install the door. used simple design, which consists of a board, two jumpers and one or two braces to ensure reliability. Moreover, it is better to first assemble the structure, and then evenly cut off the upper and lower parts. On the frame of the toilet, the canvas is attached to the hinges, which can be bought at any hardware store;

The ventilation pipe is easiest to mount from the rear. It should be at least 20 cm higher than the roof and fall into the pit by about 15 cm. To improve ventilation and protection from precipitation, a deflector is attached from above.

After construction, do not forget to treat the structure with a protective compound. You can use both paint and impregnations that do not hide the structure of the tree, but reliably protect the surface from moisture and pests. Painting must be updated at least once every 3 years, this will extend the life of the structure by at least twice.

Construction of a powder closet

If the groundwater level on the site is very high or there are other restrictions on the construction of a cesspool, then it is easier to build a powder closet. It is also called a peat toilet due to the fact that peat is used as a filler when used.

The design is in many ways similar to the usual version, but there are differences, which we will analyze below:

First of all, you need to make a diagram of the future structure. It is similar to the option described above, but in it the house is not placed on a pit, but on a concrete block base set on the ground;

The house can be assembled anywhere and put where you need. In the toilet, it is better to make a floor in order to put the bucket not on the ground, but on the floor. When determining the size, do not forget that a bucket of peat should be located nearby. That is why such toilets are usually wider than standard ones;

The height of the pedestal depends on the dimensions of the bucket or container to be used.. Decide on this aspect first, and then get to work. It often happens that after assembly it turns out that the bucket does not fit and you have to adapt, although if you foresee this in advance, then problems can be avoided;
Consider how the container will be removed. You can make a folding toilet seat, or you can build doors in the back wall to take the bucket out of the street. There is no particular difference, choose what is more convenient for you.

Conclusion

Using this review, you can easily build a country toilet. All stages are described in great detail, and the video in this article clearly shows important points workflow to make it even easier for you to understand the topic. If you have any questions, write them in the comments below.

It doesn't matter where you live - either permanently in your own house in the countryside, or seasonally in a country house, or in a house outside the city - the physical needs of a person remain unchanged for several thousand years.

Unless the degree of comfort and convenience has changed, where without it?

Reflections on this issue formed the basis of the "foundation" of the design proposed below for one of the most popular country and rural buildings -

It would seem an ordinary toilet ... However, the importance of this simple structure cannot be overestimated.

The principles of convenience and functionality here are organically combined with an attractive and aesthetic appearance of a wooden building, without losing structural strength and rigidity.

Nowadays, the modern woodworking industry produces a large number of a variety of moldings, which gives many opportunities for such creativity.

In combination with inexpensive and quite affordable power tools these days, this can help you replicate a similar design without much effort and expense.

Tool

From hand tool you will need, first of all, measuring and marking - tape measure, square, pencil. Possibly chalk line, folding rule.

From the rest - a well-ground sharp hacksaw for wood, a pair of sharp chisels, a mallet or a hammer, hand planer, glass cutter, miter box for a hacksaw ... (see fig. 2, 3, 4)

From a power tool it is desirable to have a jigsaw (see fig. 5) , electric drill (see fig. 7) , cordless screwdriver (see fig. 6) , the simplest milling machine (see fig. 8) , a set of milling cutters for wood, a set of drills for wood, the most common nozzles for self-tapping screws.

Necessary power tools

Selection of the necessary material for construction

When selecting lumber, several basic conditions must be observed:

Planed pine with a section of 45 * 105 mm is suitable for the frame, 7-8 pieces 3 meters long each are enough.
It is necessary to select as even and dry timber as possible, with as few large knots as possible, without blue and blackening.
For the floor, it is desirable to select even and strong edged planed larch boards, at least 40 mm thick.
The so-called imitation larch timber was used for wall cladding. The choice of larch is due to its resistance to various adverse atmospheric conditions. And, importantly, decorative properties larches in beauty and expressiveness of texture are far superior to the wood of such popular conifers as pine and spruce.

For this purpose, the so-called block house is also suitable - wooden panels imitating a rounded log.

Such moldings have various standard lengths. This must be taken into account at the stage of determining the dimensions of the structure, so that when facing there are as few unused trimmings as possible.
The basis of the roof is edged planed pine boards with a section of 30 * 150 mm. Selection criteria - even, dry, without blue.
For windows, it is necessary to select even and strong, without knots, planed pine bars with a section of 45 * 45 mm.
When choosing metal fasteners, it is advisable to avoid the use of black self-tapping screws due to their insufficient strength. To fasten wooden parts, it is advisable to use yellow or white wood screws with a diameter of at least 4 mm.

Toilet frame assembly

It is most convenient to start assembling the frame with the manufacture of the lower trim. Four beams of the required length must be connected half a tree (see fig. 9) and twist with the so-called "capercaillie" - powerful self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 120-150 mm with turnkey hexagonal heads (see fig. 10) .

The cut lines are marked with a square, two parallel cuts are made along them with a hacksaw, and the waste is removed with a chisel.

The main condition for marking the bars of the lower trim is to maintain the required distance between the inner corners. So, in this case, the width of the front and rear walls is 120 cm, the width of the side walls is 90 cm. This is due to the standard length of wooden panels - 3 m. Such dimensions do not allow trimming when trimming, since two parts of 90 are cut from one panel cm and one 120 cm.

Chamfers 5-6 mm wide are milled at all corners.

As a result, we get the finished wooden frame-base (see fig. 11) , to which the frame racks will be attached in the future.

Racks are cut with a small allowance in length and laid out on a flat surface to collect the front wall (see fig. 12) . Length - 15 cm for attaching to the bottom harness and plus 185 cm in height, total - 200 cm.

The lower horizontal bar is screwed on temporarily - the height is measured from its lower side and it fixes the shape.

The upper inclined bars are a kind of rafters of a small roof. It is desirable to make the overhang of the roof as much as possible - in this case, about 30 cm (see fig. 13) . This necessary condition for guard wooden walls from rainfall.

The length of the upper bars is selected experimentally, taking into account the width along the front wall (120 cm) and the angle of the roof - about 25 degrees (see fig. 14) .

The intersections of two bars are marked with a pencil to make markings for cutting corners. (see fig. 15) .

Using a square, marks are connected (see fig. 16) .

Hacksaw bars are cut according to the markup (see fig. 17) and the result is four identical parts (see fig. 18) .

Vertical racks are marked in a similar way. (see fig. 19) and cut to size (200 cm) and angle (see fig. 20) .

Figured cutouts are marked with a pencil at the ends of the inclined upper bars (see fig. 21) .

And with the help of a jigsaw, the excess is cut off according to the markings made (see fig. 22) .

Cuts are made in the same way on the remaining bars. (see fig. 23) .

The result is figured cutouts of the same shape on all four bars. (see fig. 24) .

On all sides of the upper bars and vertical racks, chamfers are milled with a depth of 5-6 mm (see fig. 25) .

The result is neat parts of the same length and the same shape. (see fig. 26 and 27) .

wood saw prices

wood saw

Assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.

To do this, holes are pre-drilled in the screwed bars. Drill diameter - 0.5-1 mm larger than the thread diameter of the self-tapping screw itself (see fig. 28) .

With the help of a nozzle corresponding to the head of the self-tapping screw, we alternately fasten the two parts together (see fig. 29) .

drilled hole allows the self-tapping screw to firmly position the two parts and, in addition, helps to avoid cracks in the twisted parts from splitting when screwing in (see fig. 30) .

Holes are pre-drilled in the upper bars in the same way. (see fig. 31) .

For such a width of the screwed part, two self-tapping screws are sufficient for each attachment point (see fig. 32) .

Since a door will be installed in the front wall, it is necessary to make an opening for it. To do this, it is necessary to attach symmetrically two additional posts of the same section as the corner posts in the frame. In addition to forming a doorway, these racks will later allow you to fix decorative windows without additional effort.

A tape measure marks the required distances (approximately 160 mm from the inner edge corner posts) and two additional racks are screwed (see fig. 33) .

The protruding upper parts are cut with a hacksaw in place (see fig. 34) .

For reliability, the attachment point of the upper bars can be strengthened by screwing an additional overlay from the scraps of the timber (see fig. 35) .

To make the back wall the same size as the front wall, use the assembled wall as a template. Having fixed the frame parts on the front wall with clamps, the back wall is assembled in the same dimensions (see fig. 36) .

After pre-assembly of the main parts, they can be fastened into a single frame. Temporary bottom bars serve as limiters, with the help of which all racks in the frame will have the same height (see fig. 37) . The lower trim is pre-leveled so that there are no distortions later.

Two holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the racks with an electric drill. (see fig. 38) . Holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled in the strapping.

After drilling, the racks are screwed to the bottom trim with capercaillie screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 100 mm (see fig. 39) .

To maintain the same distance between the two walls in the upper part, they are temporarily fastened with strips of the same length.

On this, the assembly of the frame - the "skeleton" of the entire structure - is completed (see fig. 40) .

Toilet wall and floor cladding

For flooring, a larch edged board is used. To exclude cracks from shrinkage of the boards, you need to use either ready-made tongue-and-groove boards, or cut grooves in edged boards and insert the slats into the joints of the boards.

It is most convenient to mount the boards parallel to the side walls - it is easier to make cutouts for the racks. The distance between the outer contours of the bottom trim is the required length of the boards (see fig. 41) .

Prices for electric jigsaws

jigsaws

To minimize trimming, it is desirable to select such a standard length so that one board ends without a trace. Marking with a tape measure and a square will contribute to smooth edges, which is important (see fig. 42) .

All marked boards are cut with a hacksaw for wood (see fig. 43) .

After that, using a square, it is necessary to carefully mark the places of the cutouts in the boards for the racks. (see fig. 44) .

To do this, the board is applied close to the posts, and lines are drawn according to the dimensions of the post, the depth of the cutouts corresponds to the distance at which the board does not reach the edge.

Marked parts to be deleted are marked with hatching (see fig. 45) .

Exactly along the line, the board is carefully cut with a hacksaw, which should be held perpendicular to the cut line (see fig. 46) .

After that, with light blows of the chisel, waste is removed (see fig. 47) .

Cutouts for the rest of the racks are made in the same way. (see fig. 48) .

On the upper end parts of all boards and in places of cutouts, chamfers are removed with a milling machine.

In the laid boards, holes are marked and drilled for fastening at the same distance from the edge of the boards (see fig. 49) .

With self-tapping screws on wood, the boards are screwed tightly and without gaps to the bars of the lower trim (see fig. 50) .

Thus, a smooth and neat, without cracks, wooden floor is obtained. (see fig. 51) .

Sheathing the frame is a simple matter, but requires similar accuracy.

Carefully marked in length with a tape measure (see fig. 52) .

And a square (see fig. 53) .

After marking, the panels are cut into parts of the required length. (see fig. 54) .

As a result, panels are obtained in two sizes - short for sewing the side walls and long for sewing the back wall. (see fig. 55) .

Since this board has a working width of 140 mm, it is necessary to fasten each side with two self-tapping screws, as close as possible to the edge of the board - about 20-25 mm. This will keep the wood panels from warping to some extent.

To prevent cracking of the panels from screwed self-tapping screws and for tightness of the connection, all parts are pre-drilled according to the marking before fastening (see fig. 56) .To do this, one marked part is superimposed on the second and holes are drilled in all panels according to this template.

The panels prepared in this way are screwed to the frame posts with wood screws, about 50 mm long. (see fig. 57) .

If the crest of the panel fits too tightly into the reciprocal groove (or the panel is slightly curved), then it is necessary to carefully beat the panel on top with a wooden or rubber mallet, placing the same piece under the mallet so as not to split the panel (see fig. 58) .

In this way, all panels are attached to the top of the frame, where it may be necessary to cut the last panels so that they do not protrude above the roof plane (see fig. 59) .

Roofing the toilet

Before styling roofing material on both slopes are screwed tightly edged boards (see fig. 60 and 61) .

If the side overhangs of the roof were formed by moving the rafters 30 cm from the side walls, then the roof overhangs in front and behind are formed by the length of the boards - for this you need to add the rear overhang (about 20 cm) and the front overhang (about 30 cm) to the width of the side walls. Adding three sizes together, you get the required length of the boards.

In this case, a metal tile is used as a roofing. Nowadays, there are many options for roofing of various types and colors on the market, so the options for choosing are practically unlimited.

Attaches to boards with roofing screws (see fig. 62) .

After that, it remains to close the front and rear end parts with neat boards, which are screwed with self-tapping screws (see fig. 63) .

We make windows in the toilet

Windows are used not only as a decoration, since they largely form appearance the whole wooden structure. To some extent, they play a purely practical role, as they are a translucent structure, which to some extent gives a kind of inner comfort.

In order to make such windows, you will need several bars with a section of 45 * 45 mm and a length of __ mm (see fig. 64) .

The first step is to cut a quarter in each bar. To do this, you need to set the overhang of the saw blade on a circular machine to 20 mm (see fig. 65) .

After that, the unnecessary part of the bars is carefully cut out. (see fig. 66) .

The bars prepared in this way are laid out on a flat surface and the internal dimensions of each window are marked - the quarter formed is necessary in order to insert the window into the opening between the uprights (see fig. 67) .

The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, so it is imperative to drill the screwed parts (see fig. 69) .

Installing a chamfering cutter in a milling machine (see fig. 70) .

And we chamfer 7-8 mm wide on all longitudinal and transverse ribs (see fig. 71) .

Milling results in fine details (see fig. 72) .

The resulting parts are fastened with self-tapping screws into the frame (see fig. 73) .

The protruding corners on the inside of the transverse bars are cut with a hacksaw (see fig. 74) .

Waste is cut and cleaned with a chisel (see fig. 75) .

cutting board prices

edged board

This part of the frame is inserted into the opening (see fig. 76) .

To install glass, you need to cut a groove inside along the entire perimeter of the frame. For this, a disk cutter is installed in a milling machine. (see fig. 77) .

And for several passes, an internal groove is milled with a width of 1-2 mm more than the thickness of the glass. The standard thickness of embossed glass is 4 mm. Groove depth - 10 mm (see fig. 78) .

From a thinner bar, you need to make jumpers that will be inserted between the glasses. They are chamfered in the same way and grooves for glass are milled on both sides. It is convenient to make such short parts from one long workpiece - that is, first chamfer and cut grooves along the long sides, then cut off the required number of parts and chamfer the end parts (see fig. 79) .

After preparing the frames, glass is cut out (see fig. 80) . Depending on the initial sketch, it is worth calculating their number immediately. There is now a wide variety of such glass on the building markets, which can be cut to size on site. A more budget option is to use old glass from a door or ordinary window glass, which is matted (sanded) on one side with a vibration grinder to make it opaque.

After preparing the glass, the frames are assembled (see fig. 81) .

To do this, one of the crossbars is unscrewed and glass and wooden lintels are inserted alternately into the groove.

After that, the lower cross member is screwed into place. (see fig. 82) .

The glass groove was intentionally made 1-2 mm larger than the thickness of the glass in order to fill the now formed gap with a transparent silicone sealant (see fig. 83) .

The plastic nose of the tube is cut off to obtain a roller 3-4 mm thick.

After filling the gaps, the sealant is carefully leveled (see fig. 84) . It is advisable to wait a few hours for the sealant to dry.

Due to the filling of gaps, the frames will not get rainwater and in addition, the glasses will be firmly fixed from vibrations.

The frames are fixed in the openings prepared for them with self-tapping screws. For this with inside holes are drilled in the racks, through which self-tapping screws are screwed (see fig. 85) .

Beforehand, short trimmings of wooden panels are screwed in the upper and lower parts of the openings.

We make a door to the country toilet

The door is assembled from the same wooden panels, only in a vertical position.

To do this, the dimensions of the opening are measured and dialed door leaf desired width and length. If the canvas is wider than the opening, then it is cut symmetrically to the desired size - so that the edge panels are the same width.

To the width of the opening, add 2 cm to the right and left - since the door will overlap the racks.

The upper part is cut at the same angle as the upper bars of the frame.

After trimming to size, chamfers are milled around the perimeter (see fig. 86) .

The panels are fastened to each other with the help of crossbars, which are cut from the scraps of the panels. Due to the width of the panels, you can do without a jib - the rigidity of the canvas will be achieved by self-tapping screws and applying silicone sealant before screwing the crossbars (see fig. 87) .

Be sure to pre-drill holes in the cross members.

It is advisable to choose canopies with a long arm and screw them into those places where the crossbars are screwed (see fig. 88) .

To set a gap of 4-5 mm between the floor and the door, just put a chisel under the door (see fig. 89) .

One of the important elements is doorknobs- made from scraps of curved tree branches (see fig. 90) . Handles are attached to the door with screws.

So that the hats from the self-tapping screws are not visible from the outside, you should first fasten the inner handle, and then, closing the hats of the self-tapping screws with the handle, the outer one.

The corners of the entire structure are covered with flashings 70-80 mm wide and 12-15 mm thick. They are attached to self-tapping screws. (see fig. 92) .

Toilet painting

The final appearance of the entire wooden structure is determined by painting. It is desirable to choose a coating that is weatherproof, designed for outdoor use. (see fig. 93) .

Paint or impregnation is applied with a brush in one or two layers. To more clearly highlight the structure of wood, it is necessary to carefully rub the material with a brush over the entire surface to be painted. (see fig. 94 .)

Ready country toilet - photo

	The choice of a place for the construction of a toilet and its design.
	What you need to build a toilet.
	Features of the cesspool device.
	Construction of a country toilet house.
	Using a dry closet in the country.
	Biological agents for toilets.