How to properly install a circulation pump for heating. Correct installation of the circulation pump in the heating system. Constant, increased vibration level

To make heated water flow more cheerfully through the pipes, a circulation pump is installed in the heating systems of private houses. This solution provides tangible benefits. But the main question that concerns homeowners and is covered in this material is where it is better to install the pump and how to install it correctly. After all, the main part of the controversy and doubt is caused by the place where the unit is inserted. And at the same time, we’ll figure out how to connect it to the house electrical network with our own hands.

What are the benefits of pump heating systems?

30 years ago, so-called steam heating was common in private homes, where the coolant circulated through pipes and radiators by gravity, and the heat source was a gas boiler or wood stove. Pumps for pumping water were used in district heating networks. When compact circulation pumps for heating appeared, they migrated to private housing construction, as they provided the following advantages:

1. The speed of coolant movement has increased. The heat generated by the boiler has become faster delivered to the radiators and transferred to the premises.
2. Accordingly, the process of heating the house has accelerated significantly.
3. The higher the flow rate, the greater the throughput of the pipe. This means that the same amount of heat can be delivered to rooms through lines of smaller diameter. Simply put, the pipelines have become half the size thanks to the forced circulation of water from the pump, which is cheaper and more practical.
4. Highways can now be laid with a minimum slope and water heating circuits can be made as complex and extensive as desired. The main thing is the correct selection of the pumping unit in terms of power and pressure created.
5. The household circulation pump for heating has made it possible to organize underfloor heating and more efficient closed systems operating under pressure.
6. It was possible to remove from view the ubiquitous pipes that run through the rooms and do not always harmonize with the interior. Increasingly, heating communications are laid in walls, under floor coverings and behind suspended (suspended) ceilings.

Note. A minimum slope of 2-3 mm per 1 m of pipeline is needed to empty the network in case of repair or maintenance. Previously, it was made at least 5 mm / 1 m.p.

Pumping systems also have disadvantages. This is a dependence on electricity and its consumption by the pumping unit during the heating season. Therefore, if there are frequent power outages, the circulation pump must be installed together with an uninterruptible power supply unit or connected to an electric generator. The second drawback is not critical; if you select the power of the device correctly, then the electricity consumption will be acceptable.

Leading manufacturers of heating equipment, such as Grundfos or Wilo, have developed new models of units that can save energy. For example, if you buy and install an Alpfa2 circulation pump from the Grundfos brand, it will automatically change its performance depending on the needs of the heating system. True, its price starts from 120 USD. e.

New generation circulation units from Grundfos – models Alpfa2 and Alpfa2L

Where to install the pump - supply or return

Despite the abundance of information on the Internet, it is quite difficult for the user to understand how to correctly install a heating pump in order to ensure forced circulation of water in the system of their own home. The reason is the inconsistency of this information, which causes constant debate on thematic forums. Most of the so-called specialists claim that the unit is installed only on the return pipeline, citing the following conclusions:

• the coolant temperature in the supply is much higher than in the return, so the pump will not last long;
• The density of hot water in the supply line is less, so it is more difficult to pump;
• The static pressure in the return line is higher, which makes the pump easier to operate.

Interesting fact. Sometimes a person accidentally ends up in a boiler room that provides central heating for apartments, and sees the units there embedded in the return line. After this, he considers this solution to be the only correct one, although he does not know that in other boiler houses centrifugal pumps can also be installed on the supply pipe.

We respond to the above statements point by point:

1. Household circulation pumps are designed for a maximum coolant temperature of 110 °C. In a home heating network it rarely rises above 70 degrees, and the boiler will not heat the water more than 90 °C.
2. The density of water at 50 degrees is 988 kg/m³, and at 70 °C – 977.8 kg/m³. For a unit that develops a pressure of 4-6 m of water column and is capable of pumping about a ton of coolant in 1 hour, the difference in the density of the transported medium is 10 kg/m³ (the volume of a ten-liter canister) is simply negligible.
3. In practice, the difference in static pressure of the coolant in the supply and return lines is equally insignificant.

This is a simple conclusion: Circulation pumps for heating can be embedded into both the return and supply pipelines of the heating system of a private house. This factor will not in any way affect the performance of the unit or the heating efficiency of the building.

Boiler room made by our expert Vladimir Sukhorukov. There is convenient access to all equipment, including pumps.

The exception is cheap solid fuel direct combustion boilers that are not equipped with automation. When overheated, the coolant in them boils, since burning wood cannot be extinguished at once. If the circulation pump is installed on the supply side, then the resulting steam mixed with water enters the housing with the impeller. The further process looks like this:

1. The impeller of the pumping device is not designed to move gases. Therefore, the performance of the device decreases sharply, and the flow rate of the coolant drops.
2. Less cooling water enters the boiler tank, causing overheating to increase and even more steam to be produced.
3. An increase in the amount of steam and its entry into the impeller leads to a complete stop of the coolant movement in the system. An emergency situation occurs and, as a result of an increase in pressure, a safety valve is activated, releasing steam directly into the boiler room.
4. If no measures are taken to extinguish the firewood, the valve cannot cope with the pressure release and an explosion occurs with the destruction of the boiler shell.

For reference. In cheap heat generators made of thin metal, the response threshold of the safety valve is 2 Bar. In higher quality TT boilers, this threshold is set at 3 Bar.

Practice shows that no more than 5 minutes pass from the start of the overheating process to the valve activation. If you install a circulation pump on the return pipe, then steam will not enter it and the time period before an accident will increase to 20 minutes. That is, installing the unit on the return line will not prevent an explosion, but will delay it, which will give more time to fix the problem. Hence the recommendation: it is better to install pumps for boilers running on wood and coal on the return pipeline.

For well-automated pellet heaters, the installation location does not matter. You will learn more information on the topic from our expert’s video:

Installation diagrams in various types of systems

To begin with, let’s clarify the place where to install the flow pump, which circulates water through the boiler and forcibly directs it to the radiators of the heating system. According to ours, whose experience is trustworthy, the installation location must be chosen in such a way that the unit is convenient to maintain. On the supply side it should be located after the safety group and shut-off valves, as shown in the installation diagram:

In order for the unit to be removed and serviced, shut-off valves must be installed on the sides

On the return, the pump must be placed directly in front of the heat generator, and in tandem with a filter - a mud trap, so that you do not have to buy and install extra taps. The wiring diagram for the pumping unit looks like this:

When installing on the return line, it is better to place the mud collector in front of the pump unit

Recommendation. A circulation pump can be installed in this way in both a closed and an open heating system, there is not much difference. The statement also applies to the collector system, where the coolant moves to the radiators through separate connections connected to the distribution comb.

A separate issue is an open heating system with a circulation pump, capable of operating in 2 modes - forced and gravity. The latter is useful for homes where power outages often occur, and the owners’ income does not allow them to buy an uninterruptible power supply unit or a generator. Then the device with shut-off valves must be installed on the bypass, and a tap must be inserted into a straight line, as shown in the diagram:

This scheme can operate in forced and gravity mode

Important point. On sale there are ready-made bypass units with a pump, where instead of a tap on the flow there is a check valve. Such a solution cannot be called correct, since a spring-type check valve creates a resistance of the order of 0.08-0.1 Bar, which is too much for a gravity heating system. Instead, you can use a petal valve, but it must be installed only in a horizontal position.

Finally, we will explain how to install and connect a circulation pump to a boiler that burns solid fuel. As mentioned above, it is better to place the unit on the line coming from the heating system to the heat generator, as shown in the diagram:

Installation rules

The design of a household circulation pump from any manufacturer provides for its fastening to pipelines or shut-off valves using union nuts (American). This allows it to be quickly dismantled if necessary, for example, for replacement or repair. When installing the pump unit, follow these recommendations:

1. Place the device on any sections of pipelines - horizontal, vertical or inclined, but with one condition: the rotor axis must be in a horizontal position. That is, installation “head down” or up is unacceptable.
2. Please note that the plastic box with electrical contacts is located on top of the case, otherwise it will be flooded with water in the event of an accident. Yes, and servicing the product will not be easy. This is easy to achieve: unscrew the screws securing the casing and turn it to the desired angle.
3. Remember to follow the flow direction indicated by the arrow on the housing.
4. So that the product can be removed without emptying the system, install shut-off valves before and after it, as shown in the diagrams in the previous section.

A visual aid showing what position the pump unit should be in

Advice. It so happened that the load from the weight of the circulation unit will fall on 1 or 2 ball valves (depending on the orientation of the area in space). Hence the recommendation: do not save money and buy high-quality shut-off valves, whose body will not crack over time from mechanical stress.

About installing additional units

As a rule, in a closed or open radiator heating system, where the heat source is a single boiler, it is enough to install one circulation pump. In more complex schemes, additional units are used for pumping water (there may be 2 or more of them). They are placed in the following cases:

• when more than one boiler installation is used to heat a private house;
• if a buffer tank is involved in the piping scheme;
• the heating system has several branches serving various consumers - radiators, heated floors and an indirect heating boiler;
• the same, using a hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• for organizing water circulation in underfloor heating circuits.

Correct wiring of several boilers operating on different types of fuel requires that each of them have its own pumping unit, as shown in the diagram for the joint connection of an electric and TT boiler. , described in our other article.

Connecting an electric and TT boiler with two pumping devices

In a circuit with a buffer tank, it is necessary to install an additional pump, because it involves at least 2 circulation circuits - boiler and heating.

The buffer tank divides the system into 2 circuits, although in practice there are more of them

A separate story is a complex heating scheme with several branches, implemented in large cottages with 2-4 floors. Here, from 3 to 8 pumping devices can be used (sometimes more), supplying coolant floor by floor and to different heating devices. An example of such a circuit is shown below.

Finally, a second circulation pump is installed when heating the house with water heated floors. Together with the mixing unit, it performs the task of preparing coolant with a temperature of 35-45 ° C. is clearly described in a separate material.

This pumping unit forces coolant to circulate through the heating circuits of underfloor heating

Reminder. Sometimes pumping devices do not need to be installed for heating at all. The fact is that most electric and gas wall-mounted heat generators are equipped with their own pumping units built inside the housing.

Connecting the circulation pump to the electrical network

There are several ways to connect power to the device:

• through a conventional differential machine;
• with thermostat control;
• connection to the network together with an uninterruptible power supply unit (UPS);
• powering the unit from the boiler automation.

Warning. Often, homeowners simply plug the pump into a regular outlet, connecting the wires to a purchased plug. We cannot recommend this approach, because connection without grounding and a safety device is dangerous. If there is a problem with the device or if it is filled with water, you risk receiving an electric shock.

Typical connection diagram with differential circuit breaker

The first connection diagram is quite simple and any user can assemble it with his own hands. You will need an 8 A differential circuit breaker, wires and contacts. Connect to grounding both in this circuit and in all others.

To automatically stop the movement of the coolant when cooling to a certain temperature, an electrical circuit is used to connect a circulation pump with a thermostat. The latter is attached to the supply pipeline and breaks the power supply circuit when the water temperature drops below a set value.

Connecting a phase wire to the pump through an overhead thermostat

Attention! To ensure that the thermostat does not lie and turns off the circulation in time, it must be attached to a metal section of the line. Polymers do not transfer heat well, so when mounted on a plastic pipe, the device will not work correctly.

There are no difficulties in connecting the power supply through a UPS, for which the latter has special connectors. The heat generator itself should also be connected to them if it needs electricity. But connecting the pump to the boiler control panel or to its automation is a more complicated procedure. It is advisable to have knowledge and skills in the field of electrical engineering.

The boiler is also connected to the uninterruptible unit if it needs electricity

At what speed should the pump in the heating system operate?

The purpose of forced circulation is to effectively heat the house through the reliable delivery of heat to all consumers of the system, right up to the furthest radiator. To do this, the pumping unit must develop the required pressure (otherwise known as pressure), which is ideally calculated by design engineers based on the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline network.

Most household pumps have from 3 to 7 rotor speeds, due to which the performance and pressure generated can be increased or decreased. In order not to torment you with hydraulic calculations, we offer the following method for selecting the optimal speed:

1. Find a laser surface thermometer (pyrometer). Put the heating system into operating mode.
2. Measure the surface temperature of the pipe at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.
3. If the temperature difference is more than 20 °C, increase the rotor speed. After 30 minutes, repeat the measurement.
4. When the temperature difference is less than 10 °C, the water flow rate must be reduced. The goal is to achieve a delta between supply and return of about 15 °C.

The minimum number of rotor speeds is 3, but sometimes 7 or more

Advice. Do not switch the pump to a different circulation speed “on the fly”. Disconnect it from the network, move the regulator to a different position, and then put it back into operation.

You can do without a pyrometer when thermometers are installed on the supply and return lines. If the adjustment limits do not allow you to enter the range of 10-20 °C temperature difference, your system is not working efficiently due to an incorrectly selected circulation pump. Too cold return water increases the load on the boiler and increases fuel consumption. Water that is too hot means that it flows too quickly and does not have time to transfer heat to the heating devices.

The leading European brand Grundfos offers the latest generation Alpfa3 circulation pumps, which can independently select performance depending on the load and thus adapt the work to changing conditions. With their help, you can even balance the heating system, which our expert will tell you about in the next video:

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly install a circulation pump in a water heating system and connect it to the power supply of a country house. This will save you from making all sorts of mistakes that lead to minor and major troubles. Again, you can install and wire the unit yourself. The only difficulty is to embed it into a section of steel pipeline. But there is a way out: find a set of tools for manually cutting pipe threads, cut out a piece of pipe with a grinder and mount the pump unit.

An additional pump in the heating system will be the best way out of a situation where home owners have problems heating their home. Installing the unit will help to evenly distribute heat in the pipeline. The great advantage of the pumps is their versatility, because they can operate not only on coal, but also on diesel fuel, fuel oil, gas, wood and electricity.

What are the advantages of an auxiliary pump?

The use of additional equipment to improve the operation of the heating system provides residents with many benefits. Firstly, the overall efficiency of the system increases. This affects not only the uniformity of heat distribution, but also the temperature in living spaces. Secondly, the air in the rooms warms up much faster. Thirdly, heat circulation inside the main pipeline is improved.

Another advantage of an additional pump is the elimination of the possibility of air accumulation in one of the channels through which heat circulates. Owners of apartments on the upper floors suffer most from this problem, however, if you install an additional unit, it will help create the necessary pressure and supply heat to the entire building. The big advantage of the pump can be confidently considered its efficiency. In practice, it has been proven that together two units (standard and additional) will consume less fuel.

In addition, if the building is provided with heat by a pair of pumps in the system, then residents can install useful devices such as towel dryers and thermostats. The inhabitants of such a building also have the opportunity to use small-diameter pipes - the quality of heating will not deteriorate as a result. Another important advantage is the low price of the equipment. An additional circulation pump can cost from 5 to 20 thousand rubles. This is not too much money, considering that money will be collected for the unit from all residents of the house.

What device parameters should be considered when purchasing?

Before purchasing and installing equipment, it is worth studying its most important parameters. In order not to make a mistake when choosing, familiarize yourself with such characteristics as coolant density, pressure force and water temperature. You will also need to know the diameter of the pipes used to heat the building.

You can find out exactly what characteristics the pump you have chosen has on the packaging, side wall or in the technical data sheet of the unit. Manufacturers designate pressure with the letter “H”. This indicator means the device’s ability to raise water to a certain height. It is measured in meters. The second characteristic is the fluid consumption of the system. It is designated by the letter "Q" and is measured in cubic meters. This parameter is equal to the boiler power and depends mainly on the diameter of the pipeline.

Circulation equipment is not designed to lift fluid. Because of this, when purchasing a unit, special attention should be paid to the “Q” parameter. If the installed boiler is not equipped with a pump, then further liquid consumption will have to be calculated independently. Most modern heating devices already have similar equipment. Installing 2 devices to improve heat circulation is optimal if the house already has a boiler of an older modification, but over time the building was completed and the heating structure increased.

There is no need to purchase very expensive equipment. In any case, the device will not be used to its full potential. In addition, the installed unit has a high noise level. Most often, the length of the pipe determines the power characteristics of the equipment: for every 10 m of pipe, the device must provide 0.5 m of pressure. In practice, a 100-meter ring will work effectively if the pump produces a pressure of 5 m. When buying a unit for a pipeline, do not forget that the power of the device should be 10% more than the figure calculated by the residents.

Types of additional pumps - choosing the appropriate unit

For efficient media circulation, it is best to use “wet” or “dry” pumps. In the first case, the rotor is located inside the coolant, that is, it pumps water while being directly in it. As the fluid circulates, it cools the engine. A stator is used to supply electricity. Wet pumps have many advantages. Firstly, they are able to last for a fairly long period of time. Secondly, such devices do not require frequent maintenance. Thirdly, they make less noise. And fourthly, they are not large in size.

Disadvantages include not very high efficiency, limited scope of use, and the inability to use pumps for drinking water and other food-related devices. Such units are used only in mansions and residential high-rise buildings.

In the design of dry-type pumps, the rotor is located outside the coolant. Such devices use a seal that is designed to separate the motor and the pump itself. The approximate efficiency of the equipment is 75%, which is why these units are used in situations where it is necessary to regularly pump large amounts of water. Such units are used more in manufacturing and shopping centers than in residential buildings.

Preparing to install equipment

Before you begin installing the pump, carefully read the operating algorithm. The first step is to prepare for installation. To do this, purchase split-type threads and a filter for deep cleaning. Also, before installing the equipment, you need to prepare a check valve. It stabilizes the operation of the heating system. To work you will also need:

• a set of keys;
• a set of large and small flat screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• a pipe whose diameter will be equal to the diameter of the riser;
• fittings

It is worth deciding in advance on the installation location. Modern units can be installed not only on the water supply pipe, but also on the return pipeline. If you plan to install the device on a section of pipe between the return and direct radiator-type wiring, then before doing so you will need to check the ability of the unit to withstand a powerful pressure of hot liquid. It is also worth remembering that in buildings where the premises are equipped with “warm floors”, the injection device is placed at the hot water supply point. In this way, it will be possible to eliminate airiness in the pipes.

If there is a membrane tank, then the pump with a bypass is mounted on the side of the return pipeline, closer to the expander.

Installation of the unit - algorithm in detail

The installation of an additional circulation pump in a standard heating system does not depend in any way on the type and material of the latter. In any case, installation will have to be done using the bypass method. If the house is equipped with a metal pipeline, then you can purchase a ready-made structure that allows you to bypass the main highway. Before installation, you will need to completely drain the liquid and clean the pipes. To do this, the pipeline must be flushed several times. After this, a piece of pipe bent in the shape of the letter “P” is installed on the side of the main pipe.

Fix the pump in the middle of the pipe. Place ball valves on both sides of the device. What are they needed for? First of all, the water circulation will return to normal if you turn off one of the taps. Secondly, in case of repair of the unit, you will have to drain the water; if there are taps, this will not be necessary. During installation, pay attention to the direction in which the liquid moves. It is marked on the pump body with a special arrow. Upon completion of installation, the system is filled with water and the operation is checked. If any problems are detected, they should be eliminated at this stage of the operation.

Next, using the central screw, we expel the stagnant air from the pipes. If everything is done correctly, water will begin to flow from a separate hole in the pipeline. To install a unit with manual control, the air must be removed from the pipes before installation begins. To do this, the device is turned on for a few minutes, after which the equipment valves open. This procedure should be repeated several times. As soon as the pipeline is filled with a sufficient amount of liquid, the pump itself will start. In this case, the presence of air in the pipes is strictly unacceptable.

Device connection technique – what to connect to what?

Residents of the house will not receive high-quality heating if the pump is not connected correctly. When connecting the device to the power supply network of natural circulation systems, an automatic fuse is used. To install the latter, you should choose a place at least 70 cm from the main boiler. In forced circulation systems, the pump will start working after the thermal relay is turned on. In order to ensure simultaneous operation of the built-in and additional pump, the second device will need to be connected to a relay or routed in parallel to the first device.

In electric-type boilers, circulation devices should be connected directly to the boiler. In this case, the pump will only operate when the liquid is heated. The cleaning filter must be installed in front of the pump housing. A valve screwed into the upper part of the bypass makes it possible to ventilate the pipeline, removing any air that has accumulated there.

The basic rule for creating any heating main is: the longer the line, the worse the water circulation in the system. For this reason, problems arise with uneven heating of rooms. The simplest and most convenient way is to install a pump in the heating system of a private home.

Why connect the pump?

Gravity heating is based on the principle of communicating vessels: water in the upper reservoir is heated by a gas burner and begins to flow through the pipes, passes through all the batteries and returns to the lower reservoir, from which it again enters the heating chamber. Using a natural circulation system, it is necessary to ensure a height difference sufficient for good coolant flow.

In practice, this is extremely difficult to do, so heating with natural circulation is characterized by a small heating area, a maximum of 60-80 m². For large, and even more so 2 or 3-story houses, an insertion of a water circulation pump will be required. This will ensure uniform distribution of the coolant along the entire length of the heating system.

In addition, due to the installation of the pump, fuel consumption is reduced. Water passes through the system faster, therefore, it does not have time to cool down too much and less thermal energy is required to reheat it.

An alternative option is to install larger diameter pipes. But in this case, the total cost of materials and work will be much higher, in addition, for houses with an area of ​​more than 200 m², this still will not completely solve the problem.

How to choose a circulation pump?

During the cold season, the device operates 24/7. Low-quality options will not withstand the load and will quickly become unusable. To avoid this, you need to know the selection criteria:

• pipe diameter;
• boiler throughput;
• water temperature;
• total displacement of the system.

The pressure in the system depends on the diameter. Therefore, you need to know how many atmospheres the pump is designed for. It is better to buy with a reserve; at the time of the first start-up of the system and bleeding of air, water hammers are possible - short-term periods of increased pressure. If the device is picked up end to end, it will break. In addition, the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump must match the diameter of the system. Otherwise, you will have to purchase adapters and other fittings.

Some boilers heat 2-5 liters per minute, others - 10-20 liters. In order for the device to cope with the volumes, it must have the appropriate throughput, otherwise the pump will not cope and the device will fail.

Manufacturers make products using various technologies; the cheaper the pump, the lower the quality of the spare parts. Individual units are not always designed for temperatures above +60-70°C. In regions with cold winters, where the coolant is supplied at a temperature of +75-85°C, this fact must be taken into account.

One of the main elements of the circulation pump is the motor. When choosing a device, you need to understand how many liters will be pumped per cycle. The service life of the motor must be selected with a reserve; in addition, it is better to install a device that has built-in protection against overheating.

Types of pumps

There are 2 types of pumps used in heating systems:

• dry;
• wet.

The first option is large industrial pumps, which are used for heating systems of large plants, factories or apartment buildings. They are noisy, take up a lot of space and are more expensive than their counterparts. The main advantage is high power. It is recommended to install only for objects such as private hotels and boarding houses.

Wet pumps are designed specifically for insertion into a heating system. They work directly in the aquatic environment, so all components are resistant to corrosion and moisture.

The motor and other electrical parts are insulated with rubber gaskets. Therefore, when choosing a device, it is not recommended to purchase models from the market. They could have been in the sun for a long time, respectively, the rubber would have dried out and the device would burn out in 2-3 months, since water would flood the motor.

Choosing a place to install the pump

How to properly install a pump in a heating system? The main thing is to choose a suitable place. Basic instructions are included with the device. In addition, there are general recommendations:

1. Make connections to the system in places where there is easy access to the pump. There should be plenty of free space around so that diagnostics or repairs do not cause problems.
2. The direction of water supply does not matter much, but it is better to install the pump on a hot branch. This will ensure uniform distribution of the coolant throughout the heating system.
3. Most often, the pump is placed near the expansion tank. This is convenient and practical, since it is possible to check both components at once and, if necessary, carry out repairs or replace parts. When figuring out where to install the pump, you also need to remember that the device is noisy during operation. Therefore, the place should be located away from living rooms.

Tools and Supplies

Correctly connecting the pump involves preliminary preparation of the necessary equipment. To work you will need:

• 2 water pipes or 2 Swedish wrenches of the appropriate diameter;
• fum tape 10 mm;
• 3 ball valves;
• 2 tees.

The basic set may vary depending on the type of pipes used.

For efficient heat distribution, it is better to connect the circulation pump before the start of the heating season. In this case, you can immediately check how effectively it works.

Circulation pump installation steps

The procedure is simple and consists of 3 steps:

• inset;
• connection;
• examination.

Let's consider options for installing the pump on metal or plastic pipes. These options are different from each other.

Insertion into a metal pipe

To save time and do everything right right away, you need to:

1. Check the system for the presence of water and, if necessary, drain the remaining water.
2. Select the part of the pipe where the unit will be installed.
3. Mark points on the pipe for insertion of pump pipes.
4. Weld in 2 threaded pipes.

The first point is mandatory; if water flows into the welding process, there will be big problems, since the seams will not set correctly.

At the second stage, you need to check the selected section of the pipe for strength and inspect it so that rust does not appear. If everything is in order with this, markings are made according to the formula pump length plus 10-15 cm.

All that remains is to drill holes in the pipe and weld the pipes. Tap the seam with a hammer to knock off scale and check the strength of the structure. During the welding process, the welded pipes must be strong; make sure that the thickness of the seam is the same along the entire radius. The pump does not literally crash into the heating system, but is screwed to the pipes with special fittings. Before twisting, you need to wrap the thread with fuma.

Connection to a plastic pipe

The connection diagram for the circulation pump differs only in the absence of welding, first the tee, then the pipe. For maximum reliability, it is recommended to use the pipe soldering method. This will remove elements susceptible to corrosion from the structure. In addition, if metal nuts are overtightened, they often develop microcracks through which water then leaks.

Also, for both schemes it is necessary to install an additional ball valve in the area between the nozzles. This is done so that it is always possible to redirect water from the pump directly into the system. Accordingly, the device can be removed for repair or replaced without shutting down the entire heating system.

Installation of ball valves on a branch pipe

When installing taps, first install only the side that goes into the pipe, always onto the thread. For metal pipes there will be no problem if the diameter of the tap is different, just screw on the adapter. For plastic pipes you need to use special fittings.

They are either soldered to the pipe through a connector and an additional pipe with an assembled fitting, or fixed directly into the pipe using special clamping nuts. The second method is less reliable.

Let's take a closer look at why a crane is needed. If, even after installing the pump, the heat is distributed unevenly, or problems appear during operation, it means that the pump cannot cope with pumping.

Accordingly, you need to remove the pump and carry out diagnostics. If you do not install shut-off valves, this will not be possible, since you will have to stop the boiler and drain all the water. If there are taps, it is enough to turn them off, and the water will flow along the old branch, and the pump will be suitable for dismantling.

Pump installation

When the pipes are installed, all that remains is to screw the pump to the taps. To do this, wrap the threads with foam and tighten the nuts. Often the corners are included. Therefore, they are immediately screwed to the pump. If there are no components in the box, you need to separately purchase corners of the appropriate diameter and screw them to the inlet and outlet pipes.

It is not recommended to overtighten the nuts to prevent them from bursting. It is better to wait until it starts and check for leaks. You can tighten the fastenings later. You can use any scheme for installing a circulation pump in a heating system, but you must strictly follow the basic principles and follow the sequence of actions.

Starting the system

After all installation work has been completed, the resulting structure must be checked. In this case, the system starts first without a pump. This is a mandatory condition, otherwise water hammers will begin to occur in the pipes, which, at best, will damage the connections in the pipes, and at worst, will rupture one or more batteries.

Air penetrates into the pipes of an open heating system; it can circulate along the entire length of the pipeline and fill the voids. This leads to the appearance of plugs that interfere with the normal passage of water. To get rid of the problem, you need to bleed the air and only then start the pump.

Then you can move on to testing.

The procedure is done like this:

1. Turn off the valve on the supply line.
2. Open the tap on the supply pipe and wait 30-40 seconds for water to fill the pump.
3. Open the tap on the outlet pipe.
4. Turn on your device.

An important point is that the temperature of the coolant must be increased gradually. When heated, all bodies expand; if you immediately put boiling water into the system, the connections will not have time to smoothly open and leaks will appear. To avoid this, increase the water temperature from +40 to +70°C gradually.

• up to 100 m² - by 5° every 10 minutes;
• up to 200 m² - by 5° every 30 minutes;
• 300 m² or more - by 10° every hour.

This will allow the entire line to be heated evenly.

System check

For normal water circulation, the heating system needs to warm up. It takes 2-3 hours. Wait the specified time and check each battery by touch, they should all be at the same temperature.

If you find a hotter or colder one, try deflating. For overheated batteries, you need to bleed them in a subsequent radiator, for cold ones - in the previous one. Most likely, the problem will be resolved.

Another possible reason is a leak. Carefully inspect the connection points between the batteries and the pipe. Even if there are no obvious puddles, water may appear at the joints. Recheck the connection and the problem will go away.

The last uncharacteristic point is extraneous noise in the pump. In new models, this problem only occurs if foreign objects, rust or other debris gets into the pump. To avoid this, it is recommended to install a filter on the supply pipe. Eliminated by disassembling and cleaning the pump.

Installing the pump is easy; the procedure takes from 30 minutes to an hour. Starting up the system will take longer, but will also not cause any particular difficulties, but several operational issues remain:

1. The first thing you need to pay attention to is the position of the pump relative to the horizon. A prerequisite for the device to serve for a long time is that the motor shaft must be located either at an angle of 90° or 180°. Any misalignment will cause the bearings to wear out 2-5 times faster.
2. The main disadvantage of a circulation pump is that it does not work without electricity. If the owners are at home, it is not difficult to come and turn off the tap, but if they are not there, the house will not be heated.

To solve this problem, it is recommended to use ball valves with a check valve. The device works in this way: water is supplied to the pump as long as the pressure at the inlet and outlet is the same. If the outlet pressure drops, the valve switches the water supply to the gravity main.

This method will not provide the same high-quality circulation of coolant in the system, but the house will still be heated. During the day, the lack of heat will not cause much harm, but if the lights are turned off during vacation, and the owners were not home for 5-10 days, the water in the pipes will freeze and they will burst.

Don't forget to clean the mudguards. Metal pipes contain a lot of rust and salt deposits. The speed of water circulation after turning on the pump will increase by 1.5-3 times, accordingly, all the dirt will go straight into the pump. When first starting out, it is recommended to clean it once a week.

If after the specified time the filter is clean, it means that most of the debris has already been washed away. And the procedure can be repeated 2 times a year: after stopping the system for the summer and a week after starting.

Bearings wear out in 3-4 years in operating mode 6 through 6. If the pump operates in northern temperatures, 8-9 months a year, its service life will last for a maximum of 2 years. A sure sign that it is time to change the bearings is the appearance of noise in the pump. This happens because the shaft begins to rotate with play, resulting in increased load on the housing and all parts.

To avoid damage to the entire pump, it is enough to disassemble it and replace the bearing rings. These components are inexpensive, and the work itself takes 20-30 minutes. Remember, the device should operate without diagnostics for no more than 2 years, this will avoid costly repairs.

Powerful boilers quickly heat water, but due to the diameter of the pipes, it takes a long time for it to reach the radiators by gravity. The pump solves this problem if it is connected to the supply line. On the other hand, hot water negatively affects most components, so the device breaks down faster.

When there is no goal to warm up the house as quickly as possible, and the main emphasis is on durability, it is recommended to install the pump on the cold water line. In practice, this will extend the life of the device by 2-3 years.

Using these simple recommendations, you can maximize the life of your device. A pump for the heating system of a private home is a convenient and practical thing; if there are problems with heat distribution, there is no need to think twice. Determine the system parameters and buy the appropriate model.

The operating principle of a gravity heating system with natural circulation of coolant is ensured by the temperature difference at the outlet of the boiler and at its inlet. This time-tested and practice-tested scheme not only worked for many decades, but is still used today for heating small objects.

However, they have already lost the palm to systems with forced coolant movement. This is a more profitable and practical option for organizing heating of two or more storey buildings and large premises. The movement of the coolant in such a system is ensured by a special device - a circulation pump.

Functional details of the pump

Life is more fun in motion! This is in people... And in heating, a higher speed of movement of the coolant along the circuit allows you to get a number of advantages. Naturally, shortcomings found their place here too. Let's figure it out...

Gravity heating circuits of private houses suffer from such a “disease” - uneven heating of various rooms of the house. It is hottest in the rooms that are located closer to the beginning of the coolant movement along the circuit, that is, near the boiler. And distant rooms simply do not warm up, since the coolant, due to the low speed of movement, gave up the “lion’s” part of its heat at the beginning of its journey.

The creation of forced movement of the coolant by a circulation pump contributes to more uniform heating of radiators in all rooms, due to the higher speed of fluid movement.

Features of equipment selection

Choosing the right circulation pump will allow you to find the optimal balance between efficiently functioning heating and unnecessary energy costs with an increased sound level of the pump. We explain: a very powerful pump will “eat up” a lot of “kilowatt-hours” (and it actually works around the clock), and a low power will not “push” the coolant through the entire system circuit.

To learn how to choose the right unit and have an idea of ​​its structure, read the article. And here we will figure out the correct ways to “integrate this device into the heating circuit.

Let us only dwell on the fact that for household systems, “wet” type pumps are predominantly used - they are actually immersed in the coolant (water) that they pump. Due to this, they work very quietly, unlike their “dry” counterparts, which, due to their noisy behavior, are more suitable for industrial facilities, boiler rooms of office buildings, etc.

Contact with water causes corrosion, so the parts of such equipment are made of stainless steel, and the housings are made of bronze or brass.

Choosing an installation location

When choosing a “place of residence” for the circulating “engine” of water in the system, it is advisable (for your peace of mind) to take into account the following points:

1. If the pump is installed in an old system, it must be flushed.
2. The installation location must be accessible - you may need to have access to the pump in the future for maintenance or replacement.
3. Mostly they are placed on the return main pipe near the expansion tank. There the coolant temperature is lower, which is safer for the device.
4. Modern circulation units for heating systems can withstand high temperatures. Therefore, they can also be installed on the supply pipe of the system. The main thing is to make sure, according to the technical documentation for the device, that it is capable of operating at high temperatures. It is advisable to do this when using devices with a built-in speed control function and when using “night mode”.
5. Note! The “wet type” pump can be installed in any way in terms of the direction of the pipeline. But! Its shaft MUST be positioned HORIZONTALLY! And its position should exclude the possibility of water getting into the terminal box.
6. Before starting the heating system for the first time after the summer period, it is necessary to check the functionality of the device itself - the engine rotor could be blocked by deposits from the coolant.

Installation diagrams

Installation of a circulation unit in a system that was originally planned or already functioned as gravity (with natural circulation) is carried out according to the diagram below. Such systems are usually single-pipe and some uneven heating may still be observed in different rooms. With this connection, the coolant flow is constant.

When installing a two-pipe heating system, the pump is installed in a similar way, only some changes are observed in the “behavior” of the system. Thus, the use of thermostats on radiators can lead to changes in coolant flow. Such systems are characterized by a higher temperature difference.

The scheme includes:

1. Boiler;
2. automatic air valve;
3. thermostat on the radiator;
4. Radiator;
5. balancing valve;
6. expansion tank of membrane type;
7. ball valve;
8. coarse mesh filter;
9. circulation pump;
10. thermometer, pressure gauge or thermomanometer;
11. safety valve.

Correct installation

To connect the circulation blower to a finished heating system with natural coolant flow, a kind of “transport interchange” is organized: the main pipe and a “detour” through the pump line.

To do this, a check valve (automatic version) or a ball valve of the appropriate size is installed in the section of the main pipe.

Two ball valves are installed on the surges welded into the main pipe on both sides of the valve, to which the pump itself is connected through additional pipes and fittings. The valves are designed to shut off the movement of the coolant when servicing or dismantling the pump.

Important point! Before the filter, it is imperative to install a filter for mechanical water purification, since even small particles in the water of the system, if there are enough of them, can damage the pump.

The operation of the unit is checked after it is connected, the entire system is filled with coolant and air pockets are removed from it. Air is released from the blower housing through the central screw located on its cover. Complete removal of air will be confirmed by the appearance of water. Low noise operation and evenly heated all batteries will be evidence of the correct choice of unit parameters.

Ensuring uninterrupted operation

The circulation pump is powered from an alternating electric current network (~220V). And this “trait” jeopardizes the functioning of the system in the event of a loss of power supply to the facility. Where to look for a way out and which one?

A saving option may be a circuit using an uninterruptible power supply. It must have a battery capacity reserve to support the operation of the pump (and gas boiler, if necessary) for up to 12 hours in the absence of external power supply, and at the same time produce “alternating” current without distorting its “sine wave”.

UPS, regarding their functionality, can be divided into:

• devices that allow network current (if any) to pass through itself as a “transit” without changing its parameters. If the external power disappears or its parameters do not correspond to the nominal values, the device automatically switches to “offline” mode and switches on the battery;
• devices with a linear-interactive “character of behavior” - they allow you to adjust the parameters (mostly stepwise) of the electric current passing through it from the external network within ±20% of the nominal value;
• units that provide constant power to equipment from a battery(s), which is periodically recharged from an external network. Such devices are capable of operating with input electric current with a wide range of parameters, providing a stable output voltage for consumers. This is the best option for heating equipment equipped with electronics that are sensitive to poor-quality “power,” but it is not cheap to maintain.

The power supply circuit may also include gasoline (diesel) autonomous generators, but in order to “calm the conscience”, eliminate voltage surges and guarantee reliable operation of the electronics, all equipment connections must be made through a reliable stabilizer or UPS.

Results

The advisability of installing a circulation pump in the heating system is no longer in doubt. Another thing is that the installation of the device into the system must be done correctly and reliably. The practice of operating the unit in the system in the first days should confirm the effectiveness of its operation by quickly warming up the radiators of all heated rooms.

A circulation pump is a device that allows you to intensify the process of coolant circulation through heating appliances. Installing a circulation pump often solves problems in existing heating systems that are insufficiently efficient.

Purpose

Recently, the use of circulation pumps has become very popular for heating systems. Circulation pumps are used in home heating systems for forced circulation of coolant, and they are also used to create warm water floors.

Types of circulation pumps. Choice

Circulation pumps are available with dry and wet rotor. Pumps of the first type are used mostly in stationary high-power boiler houses. Glandless rotor pumps - the rotor of an electric motor rotates in water. They have a number of advantages: quiet operation, lower energy consumption, and do not require maintenance. Such advantages of these pumps have made it possible to successfully use them in heating systems of individual houses.

The main parameters of circulation pumps with a wet rotor are their flow (the amount of water pumped per hour), pressure (how high the pump can lift water) and connecting dimensions in millimeters. Selecting a circulation pump comes down to determining the required flow in cubic meters per hour. But not only. The issue can be resolved by calculations, however, for most cases of individual houses and cottages, 25/60 or 32/60 pumps can be recommended. This is true, since most home heating systems are made from polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm. And it has been experimentally established that, according to the flow-pressure characteristics of the pumps, a pressure of 60 m of water. Art. (meters of water column) is more than enough to both completely fill the system and create the required flow (circulation intensity).

Pump installation. How to avoid mistakes

Installation of a circulation pump consists of installing it in a certain place on the heating system pipeline. There are options here. Let's look at the installation of a pump using the example of its installation on polypropylene pipes. This method differs from installation on steel pipes only in the installation work (tapping, threading), the assembly assembly diagram remains the same.

Required materials and tools:

• polypropylene pipes of the appropriate diameter;
• necessary fittings (couplings, adapters, angles, tees);
• shut-off valves (taps);
• the pump itself;
• set of welding equipment for polypropylene pipes;
• flax or FUM tape (for sealing threaded connections);
• pipe wrench, adjustable wrench, plumbing pliers.

The pump must be installed using a bypass. This means that the main thread of the heating system pipeline is preserved, and the pump runs parallel to it. This line is assembled first. It is necessary to take a special polypropylene fitting for the transition from a metal pump to a polypropylene pipe: a combined coupling, with an external thread corresponding to the connecting dimensions of the pump. It should be installed on the pump using flax or FUM tape. This should be done on each side of the pump.

Now we weld a tap (polypropylene ball valve) to both existing couplings. The size of the tap must match the size of the coupling. Typically this knot is performed using a 90 degree angle. The angle can be set both between the coupling and the tap, and after the tap. Having done this work on both sides of the pump, we get that very parallel line - the bypass. By measuring the distance between the two extreme points of the structure, which includes a pump, couplings, two taps and two corners, we obtain the overall size of the bypass with the pump.

1 - polypropylene corner; 2 - ball valve; 3 - circulation pump; 4 — coarse filter; 5 - ball valve; 6 - polypropylene tee

Next you need to decide where to install the pump. In front of the boiler in the direction of the coolant flow, or after. The most correct installation would be in front of the boiler, on the return pipeline of the system. Installing a pump after the boiler, on the supply pipeline, is possible, but less effective, and is used only when it is not possible to install a circulation pump on the return pipeline.

Knowing the overall size of the bypass, it is necessary to mark the places where polypropylene tees are inserted into the pipeline. We cut out a section of the return pipeline according to the marks, and weld tees onto the ends of the heating system pipes (their size should match the size of the return pipeline, and the branch of the tees should match the dimensions of the pipe and bypass fitting). A tap is installed between the tees, which should not narrow the dimensions of the pipeline. Now we weld a bypass onto the branches of the tees. The dimensions of the pipe sections between the main elements of the assembly are selected from local conditions, taking into account aesthetics and ease of execution.

When installing the pump, you should pay attention to the fact that the axis of the pump electric motor is positioned strictly horizontally; possible options are always well described in the documentation for the pump.

You should wind flax or FUM tape onto the thread clockwise, looking at the cut of the thread. For better compaction, it is recommended to first wind a little flax, and then 5-6 turns of FUM tape.

It is important to think about how the entire assembly with the pump will look in order to take into account various possibilities and not make a mistake.

When working with polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to provide for the need to mount the pump to a wall or floor. Most often, metal clamps with a hairpin are used for this.

Connecting the pump to the electrical network is not difficult. For some manufacturers, this requires simply inserting a standard electrical cord plug into an outlet. But more often, you need to make a cord with a plug yourself (we buy a piece of an electric three-core cord and a plug). Having opened the pump cover (screw for a Phillips screwdriver), insert the cord inside and connect it to terminals N, L, and ground. Do not confuse the “zero” and “ground” contacts!

Before starting the pump for the first time, it is necessary to bleed the air from the pump after filling the system with water. To do this, you need to slightly unscrew the plug on its body until water appears, and then tighten it tightly.