How to caulk a cast iron drain. Dismantling an old sewer How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes

If the sewer system is not satisfactory and is completely replaced, everything is simple - the plastic is simply cut into pieces, the cast iron is broken with a hammer, and the pieces are thrown away. If it is necessary to eliminate a detected malfunction, you will have to act carefully and competently. The same goes for apartment building- even if you decide to completely replace the riser, this can only be done on your own territory, without disturbing the network elements either from below or from above. We are learning how to disassemble sewer pipes, plastic or cast iron, for the purpose of repair or partial replacement.

Separation of plastic sewer pipes does not cause difficulties, but only if you act correctly and the system is installed correctly and on flexible connections.

Do not try to push the entire riser up/down - it won’t work, firstly (it is seriously secured), it is fraught with breakdowns, secondly.

Do not try to tilt the pipe to the side, thereby releasing it from the cross/socket - this will not work either, and if it does, it will be fraught.

To properly disconnect plastic sewer pipes, you first need to drip machine oil into the cuffs (O-rings) at the joints. Then you should move the pipe in the compensator, calmly disassemble the system and replace everything that needs to be replaced (although you need to act very quickly, especially when the neighbors are at home and angry).

A compensator is a part designed specifically for disassembly for the purpose of replacing/repairing sewerage elements. It provides a vertical displacement of a good ten cm, which is quite enough. Ideally, a compensator should be on every plastic riser.

To remove a pipe from a cross or tee, you need to rotate it around its axis with an upward movement. No compensator? Life, alas, is not ideal. You will have to cut the pipes and change everything completely (when assembling the system, do not forget to install a compensator).

How to cut a sewer pipe

Plastic structures cut with a saw, grinder (knife, ax), then painstakingly remove the bevel in half. The remaining nicks compromise the integrity of the sealing lip, which subsequently causes leaks. There is a special tool for cutting - a pipe cutter.

The tool is different - you need to buy not just any one, but one that is suitable in diameter and intended for a specific material (HDPE, metal-plastic, fiberglass, etc.). Special scissors are also produced for this purpose. Devices with a ratchet mechanism cost twice as much as conventional ones, but make a perfect cut, which is extremely important for the sewer system.

Video: how to cut a plastic pipe

If the elements do not separate

When the sewer system is more than 10 years old, the O-rings and cuffs seem to fuse with the plastic. Separating the elements is quite problematic (the difficulty is not invented: this is encountered all the time).

Methods of folk craftsmen:

1. Soak WD-40 and then replace the soaked one.
2. Break it with a pry bar if everything is being replaced.
3. Wrap the pipe with sandpaper (with the abrasive side facing the pipe), and then try to unscrew it (if your hands no longer slide on the paper).
4. Break it out piece by piece with pliers.
5. Cut the pipe, use a grinder (or angle grinder; small disk) to cut the part in the socket, remove the pieces.
6. Fill the joints with silicone grease and warm them up construction hairdryer(but don't melt!).

Specialist method:

1. Use two gas wrenches designed for such purposes: hold the socket with one key, and turn the released part with the second.

If the connection is rigid - made through traditional caulking of tow with a cement lock device, the disconnection process is similar to that of a cast iron sewer.

How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes

First of all, you should get rid of the cement lock (sealing the socket - caulking tow and the lock device). The work is not easy - it requires almost tenderness due to the structure of cast iron, which crumbles from rough handling, despite its strength. The cement lock is destroyed with a screwdriver or chisel.

Cast iron is cut with a grinder. First, the pipe is dismantled. Then, in the remaining part of the socket, two cuts are carefully made (at a distance of 100 mm from each other) in a small circle. The pieces are knocked out of the socket with a chisel (they hit it with a hammer - hitting the cast iron directly with a hammer is strictly prohibited).

Important! Do not use brute force - you will break the entire system. Cast iron is fragile. You need to act very carefully.

Even if the socket is on a replacement tee, you must work carefully so as not to damage the lower pipe included in the same tee (unless, of course, you are going to replace everything at your neighbors’). Having removed all the fragments, the bell is thoroughly cleaned of rust, dirt, etc.

Cast iron risers were once installed en masse in apartment buildings(the structures have survived to this day). Certain parts were produced at the factory. The caulking was also done there. They used sulfur for this. Such a system can only be disassembled using open fire. At the same time, sulfur releases toxic fumes - a respirator is necessary. We do not recommend doing this kind of work yourself - it is actually dangerous.

The use of open fire when dismantling cast iron pipes

Simple rules for working with sewerage

1. Pipes are installed starting from the bottom.
2. The sockets are positioned towards the flow.
3. The riser is replaced completely, without bothering to repair individual components (when carrying out work, vibration is inevitable, leading to cracks, which in turn lead to leaks).
4. The active stage of work is the second. The first is creating markup.
5. Before assembly, the sealing parts are lubricated with machine oil (if the use of sealant is not required).
6. The diameter of the pipes for connecting the toilet is 110–160 mm.
7. The diameter of the pipes for connecting the sink is 50–70 mm.

Theoretically, dismantling plastic sewer pipes does not cause any difficulties. Nevertheless, we recommend that you contact specialists. The problem is that in apartment buildings it is extremely difficult to come to an agreement with neighbors. It is even more difficult to ensure that hard-won agreements are adhered to by everyone without exception. Professionals have had precise movements for years - it takes a matter of seconds to replace important elements. The pros also have a habitual ear that determines that they are “going to trample” long before they fall.

Dismantling a cast iron sewer is difficult in itself. Especially when there are parts whose excellent tightness was achieved back in the Soviet factory. With such a system there is a direct path to the specialists.

Video: how to cut a sewer pipe lengthwise

The question of how to cut a sewer plastic pipe lengthwise interested us extremely. Not so much how to cut it, but why do it. Do you need creative pots for indoor flowers?.. There are no gutters for drainage system? Our imagination did not go further than the drain (and here it slowed down terribly: a ready-made gutter 3 m long costs the same as a meter pipe, that is, in the end it is a third cheaper). It turns out that we just have a poor imagination.

Jokes aside, the method of applying beautiful marks using thread is a masterpiece, as is attaching the cutter to wooden block.

Now you know not only how to cut a plastic sewer pipe lengthwise, but also why to do it. We suggest frolicking with pipes in this context, and in case of sewerage malfunctions, contact specialists.

Almost all Soviet buildings are equipped with cast iron sewer lines, since such pipes are durable and resistant to wear. But a cast iron pipeline requires the right approach for use and dismantling.

Unlike fan pipes, which can last for decades, connections inside the home may need to be replaced sooner. Also, interventions in the sewer system may be forced during work on installing washing equipment or remodeling a bathroom. To do it according to the rules, it is not necessary to call and wait for a master; all the work can be completed by the owner himself, if he knows how to handle basic tools. Dismantling the sewer system should not take much time, but dismantling old products is more difficult. Let's figure out how to properly dismantle cast iron pipes.

Step-by-step caulking of cast iron pipes

In the process of repairing sewer lines with your own hands, the most difficult part may be the hammering of a cast iron pipe. Such manipulation may be required when repairing or reinstalling the riser. In this case, it is necessary to very carefully hammer out the nozzles of the cast iron pipes. This work can be done step by step like this:

1. First, use a hammer to lightly tap the bell, and you must act carefully so as not to break it, since carelessness can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, replacing the entire riser. It is better to use a wooden hammer.
2. If the previous blockage was made using a heel, then after tapping the bell should wobble freely and can be removed without additional effort. In this case, do the following:
   • swing the bell from side to side;
   • use a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • hook it with pliers;
   • slowly and carefully pull out the rope, swinging the pipe in the process.
3. If, after tapping, the pipe does not begin to move, it means that the previous caulking of sewer pipe sockets was carried out by pouring sulfur. In this option, you will need to get rid of it by burning it out. To do this, proceed as follows:
   • gently heat the pipe at the junction along its entire diameter with a blowtorch or torch;
   • lightly, trying not to break the walls of the pipe, then tap it with a hammer;
   • If the bell starts to wobble, try moving it using an adjustable wrench.

   Please note that when working with a burner and sulfur, it is necessary to protect Airways mask to avoid poisoning from toxic fumes.

4. After successful dismantling, the walls of the socket must be thoroughly cleaned with a chisel and chisel. Pay special attention to the bell seat, since this is where you will place the sealing rubber.
5. After pre-coating the rubber seal with a special lubricant, place it in the socket.
6. Place the new structural element into the rubber ring.

Precautions for repairing cast iron pipes

When working with such pipes, be sure to remember that Cast iron, despite its durability, is a relatively brittle material. If you hit it sharply or too hard with a metal hammer, the wall will begin to vibrate, which may cause cracks. If this happens, replacing the damaged sections will be time-consuming and expensive. Therefore, when preparing for dismantling, stock up necessary tools in advance.

Don't work alone, it is unsafe and difficult. Better call someone for help.

It's important to know that Sulfur fumes can be harmful to health, so use a gas mask, in extreme cases a respirator and safety glasses. Also make sure there is good air circulation in the room where renovation work is taking place.

After removing the pipe from the socket, take time and attention to clean the seat of this part. This will ensure that the sealing material is installed without defects or distortions.

Immediately pack all dismantled material and debris into construction bags, tie them up and throw them away. From the old pipeline will come bad smell.

If you are caulking cast iron pipes for the first time and, after reading this article, still do not understand how to do it, be sure to contact a professional. U experienced craftsman the process of dismantling cast iron pipes will take 25-30 minutes, while a beginner can spend more than 3 hours and with an unknown result.

Attention! Dismantling a cast iron sewer riser refers to plumbing work increased complexity. Sufficient experience in working with power tools and strict adherence to safety precautions are required. Soberly assess your capabilities. If you fail, you will flood your neighbors and, perhaps, not with water at all, injure your hands, damage your eyes, or start a fire.

It only makes sense to change the riser when the new plastic pipes go beyond the boundaries of your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, we will consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm by replacing the tee or cross located near the base of the floor; they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Required tools and materials:

1. Hammer;
2. Chisel, hammer;
3. Strong knife;
4. Small "grinder";
5. 3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding disc;
6. An old chisel, several screwdrivers of different widths, lengths and sharpness;
7. Safety glasses, respirator, hat;
8. Steel wedge for breaking cast iron pipe parts;
9. two adjustable wrenches;
10. a large nail puller or a small crowbar to use as a lever.
11. Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. Using such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive and is rarely used on the farm.
12. Old iron bucket half filled cold water;

First, you need to determine how the cast iron parts were connected, first of all, the tee (1) or cross (2,3) with the socket (fitting part) of the pipe located in the lower ceiling. To do this, carefully clean the joint, usually it is located above the floor level. But if you have previously made an additional screed or laid tiles on the floor, the connection may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case you may need a hammer drill or chisel. You should work with both the hammer drill and the chisel very carefully so as not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling.

Docking could be done with the seams caulked using the usual cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Using an old chisel or a sharp screwdriver, pick out the top layer of the seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling to get to the sealant. If it feels hard to the touch and the chisel slides across the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you drag a knife across glass, then it is very possible that you have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to pick out a sample and try to set it on fire. If the picked sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time a caustic gas is released, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

1. Metal, but preferably asbestos shields to protect flammable objects from open fire;
2. Gas torch or blowtorch:
3. Several gas masks, it’s better not to take on such work alone.

• Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet, dismantle the pipes of the internal sewage system (if you have not already done this). If plastic water pipes(and it usually doesn’t happen any other way) pass next to a sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut and restored upon completion of the work.
• If there are others above your apartment, then you need to warn your neighbors so that they do not use the sewer during the work. How more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do this.
• Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary items that interfere with normal work. Apartment keys, mobile phone, lighter, cigarettes may accidentally fall out of your pocket while working and, what is most unpleasant, fall inside the riser.

Work should be performed in a respirator, headgear and safety glasses.

Work technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If you don’t have a pipe cutter, use a grinder to make two almost horizontal cuts around the perimeter of the pipe at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge at the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe may sag and pinch the disk, and the disk, grinder, water risers, etc. may fail. tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the cuts on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable to make cuts not all the way to the end so that the cut piece of pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break out the cut piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the resulting hole in the pipe with a wedge of rags.

2. Trimming the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the estimated height. For subsequent installation plastic sewer you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of the upper ceiling with a height equal to the height shaped part, which will be pressed during installation. Define required height make a cut with a grinder (if you don’t have a pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, you need to try to ensure that the cut plane is as perpendicular to the pipe itself as possible. If you stick masking tape near the cut line so that the end of the tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the axis of the pipe and greatly simplify the task.

Sharply, with a blow, press the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and should crack in the narrowest place, where you did not cut the pipe with a grinder. Here, in addition to dexterity, you will also need strength - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and the distance of the pipe from the wall; the further the pipe is located from the wall, the easier it is to do this. If the pipe is cut through at least three-quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is located at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should end successfully. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10 - 15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the lower piece of the sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make a cut in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upward, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut sector is removed. The last piece of pipe, located near the wall, is cut from the inside of the pipe with a grinder without a protective casing.

Preparing to install the top of the pipe. Using a grinder with a grinding disc, the cut of the pipe is trimmed and a conical chamfer is removed along the entire perimeter.

3. Removing the lower piece of cast iron pipe from the socket concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the sewer riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design may include a cast iron revision, coupling, expansion pipe, etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try rocking the top of the pipe. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower bell. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you're in luck - carefully pull out all the loose parts. If the tee (crosspiece) “moves” even a little at the joint, then you can use a crowbar or a nail puller to carefully loosen it and remove it. If the tee or cross is fixed very rigidly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking for the possibility of swinging. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a hammer drill with a thin drill, preferably without a pobedit tip. The mortar at the joint is carefully hollowed out around the perimeter, and the remaining mortar is removed with a screwdriver or chisel. Worst option, if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) is held very firmly. In this case, you can try to clear the seam with a piece of old metal cloth. But if you feel that this does not give results and are determined to change the tee (crosspiece), then there is only one thing left to do - cut off the tee (crosspiece) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge of rags; for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that pipe scraps do not fall into the sewer riser. Then, carefully working with a grinder with the protection removed, cut through the piece of pipe remaining in the socket as much as possible at different angles of inclination of the disk, without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling. Remove pipe remains inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removing the tee or cross if the joint is filled with sulfur.

The tee or crosspiece itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large bell of the crosspiece or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow you to insert the working part of the blowtorch into the pipe, and thereby ensure the necessary heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is placed on top of the pipe. This will allow you to regulate the draft in the riser. If there are through holes in the lower ceiling near the bell, for example, left after installing a water supply system, then through these holes molten sulfur can get into the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, onto the neighbor’s head. To avoid conflict situations such holes must be sealed with gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work; in extreme cases, for very small cracks you can use mineral wool. It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge made of non-flammable material so that as little sulfur as possible gets into the riser. It is advisable to perform heating evenly and change the direction and angle of the torch as often as possible. With sudden heating, even a whole bell can burst; if you hear a loud bang, you know that you succeeded, although there is nothing to congratulate here. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from cast iron Low quality. However, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work it is recommended to drill out the sulfur fill as much as possible with a drill without a pobedit tip; you can also use a drill with a long drill to relieve possible stress. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or pour out. When cooled, sulfur quickly hardens. It is advisable to remove hardened pieces to the side, away from open fire. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur ignites. But remember that with strong heating, molten sulfur can boil in a closed volume and splash out, so safety glasses are necessary when working with a gas burner or blowtorch. From time to time, check the mobility of the tee (cross) by rocking or hitting with a hammer from different sides. As soon as play appears, stop heating and pull out the tee either by first swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two supplied adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the grip site may break, so you need to act carefully.

If there is still burning sulfur on the tee (crosspiece), then lower the tee into an iron bucket with cold water. Clean the inside of the pipe socket in the lower ceiling from any remaining sulfur, caulk, or soot with an old chisel or a sharp, strong knife.

In the process of sewer repair, there is a need to remove part of the elements of the spillway system. To do this, you need to disconnect the PVC pipes without damaging the product. This material is quite fragile, so the dismantling operation is carried out without the use of extreme force.

Definition of defective area

Need for repairs PVC pipes for external sewerage systems occurs due to a number of signs:

• there are leaks on pipes or fittings;
• there is an unpleasant odor in the room;
• fluid does not drain well;
• a blockage has formed, which can be cleared using known and accessible ways fails.

The points of malfunction of the wastewater discharge system indoors are located in the discharge pipes from the plumbing fixtures to the main riser. The latter may be damaged. Outdoors, in private housing construction, this is an underground highway from the building to the storage device ( cesspool, septic tank). For the installation of external drainage, PVC sewer pipes (red) are used.

Dismantling of internal sewerage

Discharge pipes from plumbing fixtures have a diameter of 32, 40 or 50 mm. Sewer pipe connections are a joint of one end of the product into the socket of the other. For sealing, rubber O-rings and plumbing grease are used.

The following types of sewer products are used indoors:

• polypropylene parts;
• PVC products (gray);
• polyethylene material.

Dismantling begins with undocking the elements household devices, – corrugated hose, cuffs. Disconnecting sewer parts is quite simple. It is necessary to give the detached part rotational and translational movements. That is, turning it a few degrees in both directions, pull in the opposite direction from the main structure.

There is no need to make sudden movements - with a certain force, the part being dismantled will smoothly move from its place. This way the entire internal structure is disassembled. It is necessary not to forget about removing the fastening elements - clamps.

The situation is more complicated with the disconnection of the main riser, assembled from polymer parts. If compensators were installed in the project and in fact, then dismantling will not create any special problems. But, it should be remembered that the riser is a common property of the house. Therefore, all actions with it are performed with permission from the management company(Housing office, housing department, housing department, etc.). Otherwise, the culprit, the owner of the premises, who started unauthorized repairs, bears responsibility for the consequences that arise.

Dismantling the riser

It is necessary to follow the rules when disconnecting a vertical waste pipe:

• management services are notified, permission is issued to carry out repair work;
• riser users living above the floor are notified;
• repair operations are being carried out.

The presence of a compensator allows you to move the product in one direction or another up to 10 cm. It must be remembered that the vertical structure has a certain mass. Therefore it needs to be fixed.

The joints are treated with machine oil. Making rotational and translational movements, the part is removed from general design. The absence of a compensator forces one to resort to radical methods - cutting the drain pipe.

PVC plastic sewer pipes can be processed with most plumbing tools:

• a hacksaw with a fine hardened tooth;
• hacksaw for metal;
• file;
• a sharp and durable knife and other tools.

Mechanized device – grinder, reciprocating saw.

When carrying out work, you need to pay attention to the presence of a number of other communication elements:

• pressure conduit;
• electrical system cable;
• storm drain.

Connections of sewer pipes that have served for 10 years or more can “stick” or “grow” to each other. A number of recommendations can help in such cases;

• treating the joint with WD-40 lubricant;
• wrap sandpaper around the pipe; make rotational movements through it - your hands will not slip, the circular force will increase;
• if the product is scrapped, then it is necessary to make a through hole across the part; by inserting the handset or metal rod, we get a lever;
• use the “barbaric” method of dismantling - cut the pipe into pieces, break it out piece by piece.

The methods for separating the PVC pipe parts used for the installation of an external main are exactly the same. But, it is necessary to determine the location of the damage and carry out excavation work.

How and what methods of uncoupling pipes is to be chosen by the home owner or invited specialists. The main thing is to determine the feasibility of one or another method of dismantling faulty parts.

Dismantling the old sewer is an important step overhaul and replacement of the sewer system in the apartment multi-storey building. Contrary to the well-known saying that breaking is not building, dismantling an old sewer riser is a rather responsible and labor-intensive undertaking.

In the old days, such structures were built from cast iron sections, and they were joined for centuries - hermetically and very firmly. In order to disassemble such a system with your own hands without damaging other sections of the riser, you need to apply maximum skill and effort.

The sewer system of a multi-storey building consists of a central riser and an intra-apartment one.

The riser, common to all apartments located above each other, has the form of a column of separate sections of special sewer pipes, into which the intra-apartment wiring is cut through a shaped outlet (tee or cross). Such connecting element inserted between two sections of pipes.

All old sewer sections and inlets were made of cast iron. Cast iron pipes have a socket at the upper end into which the lower straight cut of the section is inserted.

The connecting section is made in the form of a tee or cross. Their design is, in principle, similar: a short pipe with an upper socket with a diameter equal to the diameter of the main sewer pipe, and a side inlet boss located at an angle for connecting the apartment sewerage system.

Dismantling principle

Preparation for dismantling

Before you start sorting out the riser, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. This stage includes the following activities:

• disconnecting all plumbing fixtures (toilet, bathtub, sinks, etc.) from the sewer system;
• clearing the area around pipes and risers;
• shutting off the water in all apartments above the dismantled area;
• warning neighbors about the inadmissibility of using sewerage during the work.

It is important that no flammable materials remain in the dismantling area, since you will have to use an open flame.

If there is a water supply next to the riser from plastic pipes, then they should be securely covered with a screen or asbestos.

Carrying out work

Dismantling an old sewer system includes several main stages: dismantling the intra-apartment pipe distribution, removing the cast-iron riser pipes and dismantling the tee (cross).

Removing the indoor system

When carrying out a major overhaul, it is advisable to completely disassemble the wiring (to the kitchen and other devices). If the joints are made very firmly, then there is no point in wasting time disconnecting all the elements.

It is simply cut as close as possible to the socket of the tee using a pipe cutter or grinder. Difficulties with disassembly may arise if the pipes were previously masked with floor coverings - they will have to be carefully removed. It’s even worse if the pipes get under a concrete floor screed. In this case, you will have to work with a hammer drill, a chisel (chisel) and a hammer.

Removing a Cast Iron Pipe

Dismantling the riser begins with removing the pipe located between the tee and the ceiling. First, a ring-shaped gap is made on top of the section. To do this, at a distance of 12-16 cm from the ceiling, using a grinder, a cut is made in the pipe with a wall remaining of about 3-5 cm.

An incomplete cut is needed to prevent the tool from jamming during possible vertical movement of the column. Then, retreating 9-13 cm down, a similar cut is made, parallel to the first. The ring between the cuts is carefully knocked out with a hammer or using wedges.

After creating a gap in the rack, the top pipe is covered with a polymer film to prevent leaks.

The next step is sawing the cast iron section from the bottom. To implement this, an incomplete cut with a grinder is made at a height of 50-70 cm from the upper socket of the tee. The clamps securing the section to the wall are removed (they can simply be cut off with a grinder). The pipe is broken by rocking or hitting with a hammer at the place where the cut is incomplete and is removed from the column.

Removing the tee

The most important operation of the entire dismantling of the old sewer system is the removal of the tee from the socket of the lower section of the riser. As noted, there is important condition: This bell must not be damaged. Most simple options dismantling are used when filling the joint with cement mortar. First, an attempt is made to disconnect by loosening.

A crowbar is placed in the hole in the remaining pipe, with its help creating bending forces in different directions. Most often, such loosening destroys the cement bond, and the tee can be removed from the lower socket. If the joint is destroyed, large cement pieces should be prevented from getting inside the pipe, that is, the cement is removed from the socket with a screwdriver or chisel.

If loosening does not lead to a positive result, then you will have to use a more labor-intensive method: the cement mass is destroyed using a chisel and a hammer. Given the fragility of cast iron, this procedure should be carried out very carefully, and the impact force should be applied away from the walls of the socket. The goal is to provide clearance between the tee pipe and the socket walls. As cement pieces break off, they are immediately removed from the joint area.

Most the hard way dismantling has to be used when filling the joint with sulfur. This composition is very durable and does not lend itself to the methods of destruction described above. In this case, heating the connection area using gas burner or a blowtorch. The work is carried out by two people. One worker heats up the joint, and the other loosens the tee.

When the mass melts, the tee is easily removed from the socket. Such work is carried out with the release of very harmful gases, which means it is necessary to take precautions (respirator and safety glasses).

Finally, extreme circumstances may arise when it is not possible to remove the tee from the lower section in any way (it is impossible to use heating, particularly strong pouring and other non-standard situations). In this case, the most undesirable option is used - the tee is cut off at a height of about 5-6 cm from the socket. The end of the remaining pipe is carefully leveled, and subsequently, when installing plastic pipes, you will have to use a coupling.

If you plan to install new plastic sewer pipes, then it is impossible to do without the rather labor-intensive dismantling of the old cast-iron sewer system. This process can cause a number of difficulties, so you should prepare in advance to solve emerging problems.