How to install a split system yourself. Installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands: installing a split system. DIY split system installation: important points

Installing an air conditioner is not an easy task, but it can be done! At each stage many questions arise. This is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to give one standard scheme - each case is individual. If you don’t know where to start installation, in what sequence to perform operations, then this article is for you!

There are many recommendations and guides on the Internet, but they are not very specific. In this post I will highlight the nuances that arise at each installation step - I will try to make clear instructions. So that with the help of it everyone can perform a simple installation of a household split system. But before starting work, read the entire article.

• if the “route” of the air conditioner is very long and has complex bends;
• if the highway will pass through several walls;
• if the external unit is installed at a high altitude (above the second floor);
• if the diameter of at least one of the pipes is greater than 3/8 inch.

Air conditioner installation

1. The first stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to imagine how the “route” between them will be laid. Each factor should be taken into account:

Mark the center of the block on the mounting plate. Then we mark the center on the wall. Don't forget about the distance to the ceiling. Using a level, level the plate and secure it.

After this, you can fit the indoor unit to the fixed plate (but do not snap the lower clips to the plate!). Use a pencil to mark the lower corners of the body. Then remove the block from the plate.

1. Mark where the hole will be in the outer wall.

Carefully cut through the wallpaper and knock off the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is direct or as in the photo above, then you need to make a so-called “approach” to the hole (where the tubes will enter the wall). So that in this place the bend of the “route” is smooth.

• for brick or concrete walls you will need a large hammer drill and a drill with a pobedite tip. Drill the first 2-3 cm of the wall without tilting (in a straight line) so that the drill barely enters the wall. Then be sure to bend down. During this operation it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
• It is better to drill a wooden wall with a drill with a feather drill with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly but surely. Don't forget to tilt the hole down.
• It is better to drill a metal profile or “sandwich” with a 45mm bimetallic crown. Also, do not forget about the downward slope of the hole.

1. If the air conditioner “route” needs to be pulled through just one hole in the wall, then you can proceed as follows:

We conveniently position the indoor unit and connect the materials to it:

We form the following materials into one compact bundle:

1. With the help of a partner, we drag the indoor block with the “route” through the hole in the wall. We hang it on the plate, but do not snap the lower clips!
   
2. We bring the power cable to the desired place inside the room (but do not connect it!). If required, we close the “route” inside the room with a cable channel. Snap the lower clips of the block.
   
3. We throw the external unit onto the brackets and screw it securely. We carefully bring the “route” from the outside to the taps of the external unit.
   
4. We unscrew the nuts of the taps of the external unit (make sure that nothing gets into the open fittings). We put the nuts on the tubes, after which we roll them. We screw the copper tubes to the fittings.
   
5. We connect the interconnect cable in the same way as to the indoor unit. If the air conditioner comes with an additional wire, then connect it to the appropriate block. We connect the “power” cable if, according to the diagram, it goes to the external unit.
   
6. Further you will need pressure gauges and a vacuum pump(pressure gauges must match the type of freon). Be careful here:

• connect the LEFT hose of the pressure gauge to the fitting of the external unit (to which a large diameter tube fits). Connect the MIDDLE pressure gauge hose to the vacuum pump;
  
• start the pump and open the LEFT tap on the pressure gauge (counterclockwise);
  
• We wait a few minutes until the air is pumped out. For small air conditioners (up to 2.7 kW of power) and a short “path” (up to 5 meters), wait 8 to 10 minutes;
• at the end of the “pumping out”, close the LEFT valve of the pressure gauge, and immediately after that turn off the pump. We look at the pressure gauge readings (the arrow should be at “-1”). If in your case refueling with freon is required, then read the relevant articles ();
  
• open the tap of the thin tube on the external block with a hexagon. At the same time, we look at the readings of the pressure gauges - “catch” the arrow at about 3 bar. We watch the arrow for 5 minutes - it should not move to 0 bar (which will indicate the tightness of the tube connections);
  
• Next, unscrew the LEFT pressure gauge hose from the air conditioner. Here you need to be VERY careful and QUICKLY unscrew the hose so as not to get burned by the freon (be sure to wear gloves). Even experienced specialists can suffer during this operation;
  
• open both taps on the external block with a hexagon (counterclockwise). After this we can close all the plugs.
  

Approximately the same instructions are in a separate article.

Thus, the installation of the air conditioner is complete! This article is not a universal instruction for all household air conditioners. But in most cases it will be relevant, and I hope it will help you install an air conditioner. Watch a detailed video on installing a split system.

If you have anything to add, leave a comment!

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Split systems provide coolness in the hot season, normalize the microclimate and purify the air. The high cost of installation work encourages you to start connecting climate control equipment yourself. Sequential installation of a powerful air conditioner, done by yourself, is possible only if you follow the step-by-step instructions and standards.

Selecting a location

The presence of two or more units of climate control equipment requires a choice of location for each of them. Before starting installation work, you will need accompanying documentation.

Do I need permission to install an air conditioner?

Structurally, the air conditioner is a system with an indoor and outdoor unit, which is mounted on the facade.

Multi-storey building, on the basis of Art. 246 of the Civil Code is common property with the right of disposal by all owners. Installation of equipment without approval is a violation:

• the device makes noise, buzzes, disturbing the peace of the neighbors;
• condensation can damage the façade of the building or get onto the balcony below;
• the overall block blocks the view or view and windows;
• There are risks of wall cracking, wiring shorting and fire.

Based on paragraph 1 of Art. 25 LCD installation of a split system is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the premises. Clause 3.5.8 of Resolution No. 170 states that it is prohibited to install an air conditioner without permission from the management company and neighbors. Consent or refusal can be obtained only after a meeting of the residents of the house.

Important! Residents of private homes can begin installation immediately after purchasing the device.

Permission is required if:

• installation work is carried out on the front part of the high-rise building;
• the user lives in a house that is valuable from a historical and cultural point of view;
• the split system is located above the pedestrian paths;
• There are no special fences on the window opening where the block is located.

Important! The management company does not have the right to remove air conditioners. Art. 330 of the Criminal Code considers such actions as arbitrariness. Dismantling of devices is carried out only by court order.

Choosing a location for the indoor unit

Installation of the internal air conditioner module is carried out with your own hands so that cold air flows do not cause discomfort. It can be placed above the head of the sofa, on the side and behind the workplace. Construction regulations define the order of location of the indoor unit:

• from the structure to the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
• from the module to the right or left wall - at least 30 cm;
• from the block to the floor - 280 cm, but for apartments on the ground floor the external block is mounted at the same level or lower than the internal one;
• from obstacles to the movement of air flows - no less than 150 cm;

Advice! In a room with a sofa and TV, it is better to place the air conditioner above the sofa.

Where to locate the outdoor unit?

The outdoor module is placed near a window opening or on an open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good load-bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of the 1-2 floors need to determine a place for the outdoor module as far as possible from passers-by. On the 3rd or more floors, it is allowed to place the device under a window or on the side.

In a private house, the outdoor unit is placed on a wall with high load-bearing capacity. On ventilated facades, a special fastening is organized or the block is placed on the plinth.

Determining the distance between blocks

The maximum length of the intermodule route is 6 m; if it is exceeded, additional freon injection will be required. If the external and internal modules are placed at a distance of 1 m, the route should not exceed 5 m. The excess of the system is formed into a ring and placed behind the block.

Interesting to know! Manufacturers indicate different maximum distances between blocks. For Daikin equipment it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic - 3 m.

What you need for installation

Consistent installation of a good split system when doing it yourself should be carried out taking into account ease of access during maintenance and ergonomic criteria - cold air should not have direct access to resting and working areas.

Approximate layout of split systems

The appropriate layout for installing a new air conditioner depends on the type of unit. The indoor module can be hung:

• to the left of the outside. The track is flat, the block is located 0.5 m from the wall. When turning the line onto an adjacent wall, the distance can be reduced to 0.1 m. The output and the route are masked under the cover of the equipment;
• to the left of the external wall without cable laying on the facade. Communications are laid in the corner of the room and hidden in a box. They hide him under the curtain;
• to the right of the outer wall. A typical solution involves laying the route in a box from the wall or laying it in a groove.

Advice! Use the groove laying technology if there is a ban on laying the route on the facade.

The outdoor unit can be positioned:

• on the loggia or balcony. The module is fixed frontally or sideways for ease of maintenance;
• on the glazed balcony. The window sash should be above the air conditioner. To prevent snow, moisture or debris from getting on the block, install a visor and plastic;
• under the window. This option is suitable for rooms without a balcony;
• next to the window. The block is placed at the level of the bottom of the window.

Air conditioner installation options

Advice! Do not use hollow or metal materials for the visor - they have low noise insulation.

Equipment

When installing climate control equipment yourself, you will need:

• perforator for making through holes for the output of pipes, cables, drainage pipes;
• a pipe cutter with a sharp blade or a hacksaw for metal;
• file and rimmer for trimming nicks;
• a pipe bender or a special spring for forming copper pipes;
• a drill with drills of different diameters to make holes for the mounting plates;
• pipe calibrator and flarer;
• wall chaser, which can be replaced with a chisel, sledgehammer and hammer;
• vacuum pump to start the air conditioning system;
• screwdrivers, hex wrenches, level.

Important! Cutting pipes with a hacksaw involves smoothing the edges with sandpaper.

Materials and consumables

Use only high-quality materials, selecting them in accordance with the type of equipment:

• supply wire for power supply and connection of modules - power cable for 4 cores with a cross-section of 2 mm2 × 2.5 mm2;
• seamless copper pipes with the diameter specified in the instructions. The length of the products is equal to the length of the route, and the margin is about 30 cm;
• insulating insulation (foamed rubber) - sections along the length of the route;
• synthetic insulation;
• a corrugated hose with an internal plastic spiral for drainage or a propylene pipe along the length of the route plus 80 cm;
• L-shaped brackets (2 pcs.) for fixing the outdoor unit with a permissible load limit of 5 times the weight of the device;
• fastening elements - bolts, dowels and anchors, selected according to the type of brackets for the internal module.

Important! To hide the route you will need a plastic box 60x80 cm.

Basic rules for installing and connecting an air conditioner

Installation and connection of a household air conditioner when doing it yourself requires compliance with a number of requirements.

Rules for installing the outdoor unit

The module is configured as follows:

1. Checking a balcony or facade for strength is 2 times more equipment, which weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
2. Inspection of brackets on external insulation - they must be hidden in the wall material.
3. Laying a damping seal on a ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
4. Taking into account equipment noise - the maximum permissible level is from 25 to 30 dB.
5. Check for distortions at each stage of installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
6. Installation in a windy area with a canopy for protection from bad weather.
7. Maintain a line distance of 15-20 cm if the equipment is located on the roof.
8. Connecting the condensate collection pipe to the sewer.

Important! The distance from the outdoor unit to the wall surface is at least 10 cm.

Rules for installing the indoor unit

A second module is installed in the room and a line is laid:

1. Connection to the electrical network with the organization of an individual line - the energy consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
2. Laying the main line externally (hidden in a box) or internally (hidden in a wall) methods.
3. Maintain a distance between blocks of a maximum of 6 m for efficient operation of the structure.
4. Removing household appliances, curtains from the device by 3 m.
5. The air conditioner is not located above radiators or furniture.
6. Maintain a distance of 20-25 cm from the block to the ceiling.

Important! The indoor unit is mounted on the wall or ceiling.

Installing an air conditioner yourself

Correct installation of a powerful split system will be done with high quality by yourself if you follow the sequential work instructions.

Installation of the indoor unit

The internal module or hair dryer is installed immediately. Installation activities include:

1. Taking measurements from the device.
2. Place the steel mounting frame on the wall strictly horizontally, checking with a level.
3. Marking the points where the fasteners will be.
4. Making holes in the wall with a hammer drill.
5. Fixing plastic dowels with a hammer.
6. Attaching the mounting panel to the wall and fixing it with self-tapping screws.
7. Hanging the hair dryer on a special plate and checking that it is horizontal.

Important! If there are distortions, there is a risk of condensation accumulating on the pallet and flowing onto the walls.

Laying a communication line

Experts advise users who do not know how to properly connect a household air conditioner without making mistakes with their own hands, to start by preparing the main channels.

Electrical connections

High energy consumption of split systems (more than 1.5 kW) requires the organization of a separate line and the installation of an RCD. For the main line, a cable with a cross-section of 1.5-2 mm2 and automatic shutdowns are used. A yellow cable with a green stripe running along it is connected to the neutral (zero) wire of the input panel. Using the indicator, zero and phase are determined. If non-standard wires are used, neutral and phase sections are marked at both ends.

Air conditioner connection diagram
Installation diagram

Holes

It is better to carry out the work together:

• in block houses, the locations for laying reinforcement are determined so as not to harm the load-bearing walls;
• the assistant should be below and report on the installation;
• holes are drilled using a hammer drill;
• for houses without thermal insulation, the diameter is 50-60 mm, for thermally insulated buildings - at least 80 mm.

After preparing the holes, you need to install the brackets.

Pipelines

For preparation and installation you will need:

1. Cut the copper pipe with a margin of 1 m for bends.
2. After cutting, carefully bend the product without kinks, observing the maximum radius of 10 cm.
3. Place flexible thermal insulation on the tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber should not be used due to rapid wear.
4. Place special flanges on the end of the pipe with threads.
5. Flare the ends of the tubes.
6. Connect the pipeline, cold and hot fittings one by one, checking their diameter.
7. Tighten the fitting flange firmly, but not too tightly.
8. Make a drainage channel from a section of reinforced plastic pipe, connecting it to the drain with a flange or heat-shrinkable pipe.
9. Make a solder by working the soldering iron in a circle.

Important! If the pipes are severely bent, the refrigerant will move unevenly, increasing electricity consumption.

Outdoor unit installation

The external module of the split system weighs more than 20 kg due to the compressor. Work at height is carried out with the involvement of 1-2 people:

1. Marking is organized using a level.
2. Holes are made using a hammer drill, taking into account the thermal insulation of the house.
3. Anchor bolts are screwed into the holes.
4. The brackets are screwed with a nut to the bolts.
5. To reduce vibrations, rubber is placed under the feet of the outdoor module.
6. The quality of the fasteners is checked and the external module is hung.

Important! If the outdoor module is installed on the 3rd floor or higher, it is advisable to contact industrial climbers.

Connecting system units

The blocks are connected through channels in the wall with the cable connected to terminals similar to the color of the main wiring. If the level difference between the modules is more than 5 m, a special loop is made to catch the oil. If the difference is smaller, the loop is not performed.

Drainage

Drainage channels are equipped with a discharge to the street or to the sewer. The pipes are connected as follows:

1. A corrugation is pulled onto the outlet of the indoor unit (a plastic tube with a tip).
2. The connection is secured with a clamp.
3. A hose is attached to the outlet of the outdoor unit to remove moisture from the walls.
4. When using a polymer pipe, an adapter is selected.

Drainage pipes must be laid with a slope. The maximum is 3 mm*1 m, the minimum is 1 mm*1 m.

Freon circulation system

Copper refrigerant tubes are bent using a pipe bender or a spring without sharp turns. The connection begins with the indoor unit - the nuts are unscrewed from the ports. As they weaken, the hissing of nitrogen is heard. After it stops, remove the plugs, remove the nuts, put them on the tube and begin rolling.

Rolling

After removing the plugs from the tubes:

1. The evenness of the edges is checked.
2. The jags are smoothed out with sandpaper.
3. The cross section is adjusted using a calibrator and the edges are aligned by 5 cm.
4. The extreme parts are flared for fastening at the inlet and outlet.
5. During flaring, the edge of the pipe is directed downward and fixed with a 2 mm exit.
6. The flaring cone is placed on the edge of the pipe and tightened with force.
7. Rolling ends when the cone does not pass into the edge.

The operation is repeated for all segments.

Port connection

The flared end of the tube is connected to the outlet, and the nut is tightened. No sealants or additional gaskets are used. For strong fixation, a pressure of 50-70 kg will be required so that the copper is flattened and the connection becomes monolithic. Work is being done for all exits.

Leak test

A solution is used for sealing. You will need 0.5 liters of distilled water, heated to boiling water. Dissolve 1 tbsp in liquid. l. laundry soap. The outlet nipple is removed and a bicycle pump is put on the pipe. When pumping, the compound is applied with a brush, and the thread is tightened until bubbles stop forming by 1/8.

Important! It is better to remove soap scum with a damp cloth.

Vacuuming

Vacuuming helps remove moisture, dust, and excess air. The system is pumped with a special pump for 60 minutes. During this time, moisture and remaining air are completely removed.

Filling and watering

The system is filled from a cylinder with refrigerant. The reservoir is connected via a pressure gauge with an adapter. The pressure is injected to the value specified in the manufacturer's documentation. Electrical wires are connected via terminals - zero to zero or neutral. Phase ones are connected by color.

Important! Air conditioners with refrigerant are not filled with freon and vice versa.

Testing

The check is carried out as follows:

1. The circuit breaker turns on.
2. The air conditioner goes into test mode automatically.
3. For some models, the test is activated from the remote control.
4. If air flows at the end of the test, the position of the blinds is set.
5. Thermal shielding is performed with thin aluminum - this saves 2-3% more electricity.
6. The harness and drainage pipe are wrapped with insulating tape that is resistant to moisture.

At the last stage, the holes in the wall are carefully sealed.

Common mistakes during air conditioner installation

With unprofessional installation, users can make a number of mistakes:

• laying pipes with kinks - increases the load on the compressor;
• installing an external unit on a balcony with glazing - normal air circulation is lost;
• location of the air conditioner next to welding machines;
• uneven arrangement of blocks - condensation begins to flow onto the floor;
• choosing equipment that does not have an auto-defrost option - in heating mode, the external unit freezes.

For normal operation of the air conditioner, you need to regularly clean the filters and drainage channels. When overloaded, the system becomes noisy - the fan is unbalanced or the bearings wear out. These breakdowns should only be repaired by a specialist.

1. Automatic switches designed for boilers and washing machines are suitable for split systems.
2. If the drainage pipes sag too much, condensation accumulates.
3. If you have never done flaring before, practice on an unnecessary piece of pipe.
4. It is better to carry out sealing together.
5. After connecting the pipeline, you need to fill the holes with foam or fill them with silicone sealant.

Watch a video on how to install an air conditioner yourself

Now many people want to install not just an air conditioner in their apartment, but a split system. This is understandable, this system has a lot of advantages: it does not block natural light, since there is no need to embed it into the window frame, it does not depend on the overall air conditioning system of the house as a whole, and lastly, the system consists of only two blocks - external and internal . The only thing that stops many consumers from making a purchase is not knowing how to install a split system themselves, since this requires basic knowledge of installing climate control equipment. We will try to rectify the situation and familiarize you with the rules for installing such equipment. Let's look at everything in order.

What is a split system?

The air conditioning system consists of two separate units: the external one is the condenser, the internal one is the evaporator. These blocks communicate with each other using electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant circulates.

The indoor unit also has a thin plastic tube through which condensed moisture is removed from the system.

Important! According to all the rules, the tube that performs the drainage function must be connected to a special drain tank or sewer pipe. But for some reason, many people take it outside and water from the tube drips onto people’s heads or under their feet.

How the system works

Climate control technology works quite simply:

1. If it is necessary to cool the room, the refrigerant passes through a copper tube from the heat exchanger of the outdoor unit to the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. That is, in this case, the freon is processed by the fan, and cold air comes out of the air conditioner.
2. If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the heat pump of the external condenser begins to function as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, begins to work as a condenser.

Important! The external block of the split system contains a compressor, the main function of which is to compress freon. This process significantly improves the efficiency of the device.

Methods for attaching indoor units

Depending on the mounting method, the indoor units of the climate system can be:

• Wall-mounted.
• Floor-ceiling.

You definitely need to know these points in order to understand how to install a split system yourself.

1. Most often, in apartments of multi-storey buildings, wall blocks are used. To change the direction of air mass flow, wall blocks are equipped with movable blinds. The power of wall-mounted devices is specifically limited by manufacturers, since a very strong jet of cooled air can blow away everything in its path in a small room.
2. If a split system is needed for spacious rooms, for example, for workshops and offices, then in this case more powerful equipment with a floor-ceiling indoor unit is installed.

When is the best time to install an air conditioning system?

Installation of the system is best timed to coincide with repairs, since the work ahead will be dusty and serious. To install electrical wires, you will have to walk along more than one wall. In addition, if you decide to install a split system yourself, then you should take into account some important factors:

• The seller is not responsible for the malfunction of the product if the installation work was not carried out by a specialized organization.
• Before you begin installing the climate system, you need to understand what it consists of and how it works, so that even if the installation is carried out by specialists, you can control the progress of the work and its quality.
• To install the air conditioner yourself, you need a special tool. It should be taken into account that the list of specialized equipment is extensive, and not everyone has the skills to work with them.

Important! To save money, we recommend doing the following: do the main work yourself, and entrust the system connection and startup to specialists. In this case, the work will be cheaper, and most importantly, the warranty on the product will remain intact.

So, what can you do yourself to install a split system:

1. Prepare all electrical parts.
2. Mark the “route”.
3. Punch a hole in the wall to lead the “route” to the street. This is the most difficult part of the job and it costs a lot of money. Therefore, by doing this work yourself, you will save the lion’s share of the money that you need to pay to specialists for connecting the system.
4. Strengthen the blocks.

To ensure the installation of a split system is successful, adhere to the following rules:

1. The indoor unit is installed at a distance of 3 meters from the floor and at least 10 cm from the ceiling.
2. Do not place the indoor unit above cabinets, beds or near heating elements.
3. Do not install the indoor unit behind curtains, screens, drapes or other obstructions to air flow.
4. The indoor unit must not be installed in rooms with a source of electrical noise: induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens, in workshops with power tools. Interference from equipment can damage the unit's processor.
5. You cannot install a split system - its outdoor unit - yourself if you live above the second floor. This is dangerous to health and life. If you live on the top floor, then the outdoor unit can be installed on a balcony or loggia. It is better, of course, if the equipment is located on the north or east side. To install the outdoor unit on the balcony, you can use homemade small brackets.
6. The length of the freon route between the indoor and outdoor units should not be less than 3 meters.
7. Install the external unit in such a way that there are no obstacles opposite it at a distance of 3 meters, otherwise air circulation will be difficult.
8. For a split system, it is necessary to carry out separate wiring and install a separate circuit breaker on the panel.

Tools for installing a split system

In order to install a split system yourself, you will need a number of accessories and tools.

Important! They can be rented or purchased. The quality of work and the durability of the air conditioner directly depend on the quality of installation equipment.

To work on installing a climate system, you will need the following equipment, which can be divided into the following groups:

1. Electrical equipment:
   1. Perforator with a set of chisels. This tool is necessary for punching holes in a main wall.
   2. Grinder with a diamond blade.
2. Pipe Tools:
   1. Pipe cutter for copper pipes. Under no circumstances should you cut freon pipes with a hacksaw, as copper chips will certainly remain in the gap, which will damage the compressor.
   2. Tube flaring kit. You cannot use improvised means, as it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.
   3. Scouring. This is a tool for stripping cut ends of pipes. Using files and needle files for this purpose will result in the formation of sawdust.
   4. Hydraulic pipe bender.
3. Devices for electrical installation work:
   1. Tester.
   2. Phase indicator.
4. Soldering Tools:
   1. Burner.
   2. Copper-phosphorus solder.
5. Refrigeration tool:
   1. Vacuum pump. It is necessary to treat the refrigeration system before filling it.
   2. Pressure gauge. Necessary for measuring the refrigerant pressure in the system.

Important! Take note of several valuable recommendations that will make it easier for you to install a split system yourself:

• If the wall is concrete, then a reinforcement detector will not hurt, since if during drilling the tool hits the reinforcement, you will have to punch another hole.
• It is better to purchase a copper pipe in a whole coil. An extra wire will always come in handy, but long pipelines will allow you to lower the external unit lower. Be sure to make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory rolled. The tube should not have cracks or dents.
• Be sure to practice cutting and scraping pipes: cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, hold the pipe end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.

How to install a split system?

Installation of the climate system is carried out in several stages. Let's look at each of them in detail.

Stage No. 1. Choosing the location of the air conditioner

Following the above rules, determine where the indoor and outdoor units will be located.

Stage No. 2. Electrical wiring installation

Even the lowest-power air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, the climate system needs to lay separate wiring with a cross-section of no less than 1.5 sq. mm. It is also necessary to install a separate circuit breaker in the panel.

Important! When connecting the wires to the input panel, find where the phase and zero are located, using special indicators, and mark them at both ends.

Stage No. 3. Installing an external unit

If you live no higher than the second floor, then using a powerful hammer drill, drill a through hole in the external wall with a diameter of 8 cm. Recommendations for a hole of 60 mm or 50 mm clearly do not take thermal insulation into account.

Important! Before you start punching a hole, be sure to seal off the area of ​​the street under the wall with tape so that a piece of plaster or concrete does not damage people or someone's car.

• The back wall of the block should not fit tightly against the wall of the house.
• The distance between blocks should not exceed 15 meters, and the height level between them should be no more than 3 meters.
• The brackets must be able to withstand the weight of the equipment, taking into account various weather conditions.
• Do not install the external unit directly under the drain hose, since the freon pipe also leads there. It is better to step aside 40-50 cm, otherwise the moisture accumulating in the condenser will fall on the inner wall of the air conditioning compressor.
• When installing equipment, make sure that the block is positioned strictly horizontally, without any slopes. Control the installation of the external unit using a building level.
• Fasten the block to the brackets using powerful bolts.

Important! It is advisable to install a canopy over the block to protect it from precipitation.

Stage No. 4. Installation of the indoor unit

The indoor unit is mounted on the wall in the room. Before proceeding with installation, be very careful about its placement. The unit must be located at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling - this is necessary for the system to operate efficiently, and at a certain distance from the walls.

Important! All these parameters are indicated in the device passport.

The indoor unit must be placed strictly horizontally so that all condensate goes into the drainage system, otherwise water stains on the floor cannot be avoided.

Important! The product delivery set must include a special mounting strip, which is attached to the wall, and on which the unit itself is hung.

Stage No. 5. Pipe connections

Along the intended route of electrical wiring and freon tubes, make grooves (grooves) in the wall using a grinder with a diamond blade or a wall chaser. There is another option - the entire line can be hidden in plastic decorative boxes or covered with wires using baseboards.

Important! To avoid mistakes and correctly connect all the pipes, read the installation instructions for the split system.

1. Measure the required length of copper pipes. To do this, measure the distance between the block taps.
2. Cut them with a margin of at least 1 m. The excess will be used for bends. Remember that bending the tubes must be done very carefully to avoid wrinkles and kinks. The permissible bending radius of the tubes is at least 10 cm.
3. Place heat insulators on the refrigerant pipes - polyurethane foam hoses or flex insulation. Some kits include thermal insulators.
4. Place threaded flanges on the tubes and flare the ends.
5. Connect the pipelines to the fittings. The main thing is not to confuse the connection. Many climate system manufacturers have made cold and hot fittings of different diameters. Tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not too tightly. When sealing, you will tighten the threaded connections.
6. For the drainage system, prepare a piece of reinforced plastic tube.
7. Connect the tubing to the drain using a threaded flange or heat shrink tubing. The drainage must be installed at an angle of at least 5-10 mm so that water drains naturally.
8. Connect the wiring between the units. The main thing is not to confuse the connection pins of the internal and external units; to do this, use a cable with multi-colored cores.

Thus, you have practically installed the split system yourself. All that remains is to invite a specialist to seal, vacuum and start the system. The main thing is that you have maintained the warranty on the equipment and saved the lion’s share of installation costs.

If you want to see how the next steps work, then read on.

Stage No. 6. Sealing and vacuuming

To check the seal, you can use a leak detector, or you can use the old folk method - a soap solution.

To prepare the solution:

1. Buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy.
2. Heat the water.
3. Drop shavings of laundry soap into the water.

Further actions are as follows:

1. Connect the rubber hose of the bicycle pump to the outlet nipple.
2. Apply soap solution to the threaded connection with a brush.
3. Pump up the air and watch for bubbles to appear.
4. Once the bubbles stop appearing, tighten the threaded connection another ⅛ turn.
5. After completing the work, remove the soap solution with a damp cloth.

Important! It is better to carry out the work of checking the sealing by two people: one pumps air, the other applies a soap solution and watches for bubbles.

After checking the sealing, the system must be evacuated, that is, the dust, moisture and air that have entered there must be removed. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure effective operation of the device.

Vacuuming is carried out using a special pump connected to the system using a pressure manifold and flexible hoses:

1. Turn on the pump and open the port on the external unit.
2. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port.
3. Turn off the pump.
4. This entire procedure may take 15 minutes. However, do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position.

Important! Leave the gauges in place to double-check system pressure during testing.

Stage No. 7. Testing

To carry out testing, fill the system with freon from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed.

Important! You can start the refrigerant only after you make sure that everything is sealed.

Refrigerant injection must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Open the supply tube.
2. Open the suction tube.
3. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions.
4. Turn off the freon supply.

Important! Air conditioners running on freon cannot be filled with refrigerant, and vice versa.

Further actions:

1. During testing, turn on the circuit breaker so that the air conditioner goes into operation on its own. If this does not happen, then run the test using the remote control.
2. Let the device operate for about 15 minutes so that the freon is distributed throughout all the tubes and take a control pressure measurement.

We hope that the information in the article helped you understand the operation of the split system and the stages of its installation. If you have any doubts about your abilities and knowledge, then you always have the opportunity to turn to specialists, because now you have enough information to control their work.

Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines 90% of the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made during installation, it is very difficult to correct them later.

Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, there should be no debris, dust, or boxes left in the room. The word “air conditioning” has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which translated from English means “condition of the air.” The air conditioner serves to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.

Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a “regular” air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window” that is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house, if there is one (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and circulates air throughout the house). And it differs from a “regular” air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.

But let’s agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word “air conditioner” that is more familiar to our ears.

First - repair, then - split

So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: internal (evaporator) and external or external (condenser). The blocks are connected to each other by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which refrigerant (freon) flows. A thin plastic tube (drainage) also extends out from the indoor unit to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (see below for information on how to properly make drainage).

The operating principle of a split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, freon flows from the heat exchanger of the outdoor unit through one copper tube to the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. There it is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the external unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Split system:
1 – outdoor (external) unit
2 – internal wall block

The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; the same noise level is created by a flying butterfly). But the fan and compressor of the external device can “buzz” and become louder.

Depending on the method of fastening, indoor units can be wall-mounted or floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are so called because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.

In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable blinds on the wall unit, you can change the direction of air flow. But the power of wall-mounted units is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow away” everything in its path. But if a more powerful air conditioner is required in a room (for example, in an office), a floor-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure uniform temperature distribution in the room.

Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more effective to install a floor-ceiling air conditioner!

Split systems vary in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about power, you should definitely consult a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:

1. Area (volume) of your premises.
2. The size of the window, the direction of the world it faces.
3. Presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
4. The amount of constantly working equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
5. Number of heating radiators in the rooms.
6. The number of people constantly present in the room.
7. Is there forced ventilation?

Another piece of advice: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that they offer you “the typical thing.” In reputable companies, before selling an air conditioner, a consultant, as a rule, goes to the site where the device is supposed to be installed, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. For example, they work at the Aeroprof company, which specializes in Carrier air conditioners (USA), at the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and at the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).

This is what the distribution of air flows from a wall-mounted indoor unit looks like

What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIRS, and not after all the repair work has already been carried out. Then you won’t have to hammer and drill freshly painted and leveled walls in order to lay electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fastening the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.

Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after European-quality renovation.

Now about other possible “ambushes”. Very often, mistakes begin when purchasing an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. And what? And that’s it: we’re one on one with him. In the best case, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.

Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or TV: they say, you bring it home, put it in the chosen place, turn it on and - it works! This number will not work with air conditioning. The air conditioner requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when you can’t skimp on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work accounts for 18–30% of the cost of the unit.

I remember how one experienced and reserved-looking installer, answering my quite innocent question: where to start installing an air conditioner, suddenly became agitated and shouted: “People! You are all literate! Each air conditioner comes with instructions in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools,” point by point. Read it, damn it, before you stick your hands in! Better yet, call the specialists.” And, alas, he is right.

Installation: where to start?

Split system installation diagram

1. Communications (in the groove)
2. Drainage (in the groove)
3. Sewerage
4. Siphon
5. Electrical wiring - to the panel (in the groove)
6. A hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°

First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out

Any, even low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner must have separate electrical wiring and a separate circuit breaker installed in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will catch fire. If specialist installers install separate wiring for the air conditioner, the possibility of a fire is reduced to almost zero.

Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember a case when the owner of an apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out the plugs.

Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit

To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, onto which they then install the external unit.

If you place it on an open balcony, then there are no problems: you attach it with bolts, the breeze blows through it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the block to the wall, then you cannot do without durable brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the “outdoor” is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding staircase. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes both equipment in the form of a machine with a fire escape-boom and a climber are required.

External and internal (wall-mounted) units of the Carrier split system

If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3–20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).

If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit higher than 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. Or they might steal it. At one of the companies they told us a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. The managers were surprised: “Why don’t you want a complete split system.” “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, hanging under the window.” Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, you need to make a metal canopy over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.

In general, installing an external unit is a responsible undertaking. If it is loosely secured, it might fall... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will answer for yourself.

What cannot be done with the external (outdoor) unit?

There are space restrictions for installing an external unit:

1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.

Third stage: installation of the indoor unit

Air conditioner control panel

Installers fasten special brackets with screws to the wall (if the block is wall-mounted) or the ceiling (if the block is ceiling-mounted) and install the blocks on them. After this, be sure to check the strength of the fastening (is the structure wobbly? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later the entire structure may simply collapse on your head.

But for the floor block, no special fasteners are required. He, as they say, “will stand on foot.” You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, make sure that the unit does not blow on the curtains or the wall and is located away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, after all communications have been laid, it can no longer be moved from place to place.

So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:

1. ...above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling “until it loses its pulse” and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the camera, but the entire room. It will “work” and fail by the end of the day. The same thing will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat emanating from the room battery can cause the plastic housing of the unit to become deformed.
2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations (for example, a drill, a drilling machine) are constantly operating. High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
3. ...directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
4. ...where air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back at the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly got tangled in the curtains and turned off before it could bring the room temperature to the set temperature. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
5. ...with a skew - then water (condensation) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be drained through a drainage tube into a special tank (see our certificate on drainage). Stage four: gating walls or floors

In order to connect electrical wires and freon tubes between air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “drill the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “drill”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.

Don't want to dabble? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are hidden under the baseboard). But before doing this, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for the refrigerant) and the “ends” of the wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this using the connecting fittings. And a “waterproofing cup” with a connecting hose was placed into a pre-punched hole in the outer wall.

Installers arrive on site with all the necessary equipment, communications are laid in the groove, the drainage pipe is placed in the groove at an angle

After this, they must carry out the so-called vacuumization of communications, and always within 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation must be done using special equipment.

Please keep in mind that, as a rule, a separate hidden line is made for the drainage pipe (in the wall or under the floor).

Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program

At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by setting it to the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then everything is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we recommend that you independently conduct such a check of the system’s operation every year (using the same test program).

Stage six: garbage collection

I must warn you: laying the main line and other installation procedures involve dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will arrive with special tools (including a metal detector to examine walls for fittings and hidden communications).

In addition, installers should have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning equipment. With their help, after finishing the work, they must remove all the garbage themselves. If installers try to dodge “dirty” work, strictly demand that “cleaning up the area” is included in the payment for installing an air conditioner. In addition, you can enter into an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of the split system. Then you won’t have to risk your life, leaning waist-deep out of the window, to clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers at your own expense. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, we hasten to announce a pleasant detail: the Meteomarket company, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year term of the service contract. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted, good operation. By the way, in the well-known building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been installed since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.

The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period for the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned right away) breaks down. Of course, you can clean it with a vacuum cleaner if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.

At temperatures below –15°C, the air conditioner may refuse to work “heat”, and then low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater and even drain tube heater) will be needed. By the way, some models already include these devices (see table).

What did the installers say?

Experienced installers do not recommend buying air conditioners “from anyone,” on the market or second-hand.

“How many times has it happened that some kind of illiterate whiner will carry out the installation, and then people call us and beg us to help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. “It used to be that such would-be installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, but it didn’t have plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for an air conditioner: when it combines with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill after three years.

The installers told me that sometimes they come across particularly stubborn customers, saying, “I’m paying, do as I say!” What should I do? There was a case recently. The client ordered that the outdoor unit be installed not from the street side, but inside the apartment, and in the children's room. He motivated this with a strange statement that his children, they say, would live at the dacha for another two months. He ignored all the persuasions and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit cannot be installed in a closed, and especially in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything.

Or here's a case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, and that a directed flow of cold air could cause a cold. "No! I won't catch a cold! Place it!” There is nothing to do, they set it. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, and they saw that the temperature on yesterday’s split was set to 22°C.

- What's wrong? - they ask.

– It’s true, guys, I froze at night.

In general, when the air conditioner is working properly, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable – that’s all! One day a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.

That's it. Hence the conclusion - it’s not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do this for you.

Split system installation procedure

1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate “automatic circuit breaker” in the distribution panel.

2. Installation of the external (outdoor) unit:

choosing a place to install it (not lower than 1.8–2 meters above the ground, otherwise it may be stolen - there have been cases);

installation of supporting brackets (with anchor bolts);

strengthening the external unit on brackets;

drilling a hole with a diameter of 50–60 cm in the external wall for connecting communications (they will connect the external and internal blocks of the split system);

inserting a “waterproofing glass” into the hole (the material from which the “glass” is made is the know-how of the installers); laying connecting communications into the “glass”.

3. Installation of the indoor unit:

choice of location (the horizontal distance between the indoor and outdoor units should not exceed more than 7–30 meters - depending on the brand of the system);

installation of support brackets;

strengthening the indoor unit on brackets.

4. System wire connection:

gating a wall or floor (in order to hide communications or laying wires in a plastic casing);

connecting wires (copper for refrigerant and electrical) coming from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit using connecting fittings;

carrying out a vacuum procedure (for 50 minutes, to remove air and moisture from communications using special equipment).

5. Test activation of the system:

checking the operation of the system using a special program.

6. Cleaning the premises (by installers).

How should proper drainage be arranged?

To do this, installers must:

1. Groove the highway.
2. Shut off the water in the apartment.
3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
4. Firmly insert a drainage plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will trap the smell coming from the sewer.

Attention! The drainage tube through which accumulated moisture is removed must be inclined at an angle of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If the tilt cannot be done for some reason, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture.” But! This pump is not included in the kit and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost between 70 and 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.

The main problems that arise when operating an air conditioner

Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly at you, creating a drafty feeling.

Solution: You need to turn on the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal dampers in a more favorable position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.

Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it is constantly running.

Solution: In this case, you should check whether the filters are clogged, whether the windows and doors are closed, and whether additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are operating in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.

Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.

Solution: The drainage line appears to be clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline exposed to the street is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, condensation can turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice jam does occur, then you should wait for a thaw, and until then, do not turn on the system for cooling.

Problem 4: Reduced air flow.

Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate an air conditioner without a filter, since it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.

Problem 5: Icing of the external unit when the air conditioner is operating for heating in conditions of low negative temperatures and high humidity.

Solution: If your air conditioner does not have an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the external unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.

Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.

Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below – 10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens and its wear increases many times over. There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But at the press center of the capital’s SES they told us that there is nothing to be afraid of: if the filters are replaced in a timely manner and if the operating rules are followed, the split system does not pose any harm. At least there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological inspection.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands Climate control equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, you install an air conditioner yourself. The main condition is to strictly follow the instructions and carry out the work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control unit.

Operating principle of air conditioner, split system

To form a general idea of ​​the organization of the internal structure, and before installing an air conditioner, we recommend considering the operating principle of the system. The climatic unit consists of 2 equivalent units - compressor and evaporation. They are connected to each other with special adapters, pipes and pipes.

The evaporator unit is installed inside the living space, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.

The refrigerant is sent under high pressure to the evaporator section. Then the freon expands, gradually boils and vaporizes. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The climate control system operates with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, the water is removed from the building through a special tube.

During operation, the compressor pumps out freon vapors. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. Dense “fog” is directed into the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition into a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process goes in cycles.

The efficiency and duration of operation of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the device, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit and the climatic characteristics of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which can lead to the device failing. Even ordinary dust can cause damage. Regular wet cleaning is required for the room.

Couplings and joints require sealing in order to eliminate the likelihood of evaporation of freon or other refrigerant. The external unit of the air conditioner is installed in such a way that it is level below the internal part of the unit. The external unit is located in a dark place, away from sunlight.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: tools - complete list

Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive undertaking. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical basis and the availability of the necessary tools. The listed factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.

Taking into account the scope of application, they are divided into several functional groups.

Power tools

Without power tools, installing an air conditioner yourself is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:

• perforator;
• "Bulgarian";
• drill.

A powerful hammer drill is chosen so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which the main line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. In this case, low-power combined electric drills, which only provide a hammer drill function, are not enough. They are not able to drill through brickwork.

Before installing the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.

For a concrete wall, you will additionally need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.

Measuring tool

Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with mandatory horizontal level control. You can use markers, marking pencils, a construction or laser level. A number of additional equipment will also be required. Air conditioners with installation cannot be securely and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.

Specialized equipment

Specialized tools are necessary for high-quality and efficient operation of climate control equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, industrial vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.

1. Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using special solder and a gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to avoid using a conventional hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which can lead to damage to the climate control unit. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer or rolling. Main turns are formed using a pipe bender.
2. An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they get inside the device.
3. Vacuum pump. The unit dries the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory; without it, the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.

The installation equipment listed is basic. You can’t do without additional consumables - pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: step-by-step instructions

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after purchasing and preparing the necessary equipment, tools and climate control equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed to the external wall, after which the internal work is carried out.

At all stages, it is extremely important to follow safety precautions, especially when it comes to high-rise buildings. Installation of an external unit is one of the most important and critical stages.

Mounting the outdoor unit

Installing a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls of country houses, is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple; the location is selected with special care. When deciding where to install your air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.

There are several basic rules:

1. The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window of your apartment neighbors.
2. A small tube is used to drain condensate.
3. The climate control device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because The equipment requires periodic maintenance.

In 90% of cases, the block is fixed on the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are unspoken rules for installing an air conditioner, mandatory among professionals. If you follow them, reaching the outside of the climate control unit will not be difficult.

• The mounting points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. For reliable fixation, anchor bolts are used.
• To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If there is such an opportunity, then it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.

Metal brackets are installed according to the previously prepared markings, screwing in the bolts as securely as possible. Standard installation of an air conditioner is carried out in such a way that a distance of 10 cm is maintained between the climate unit and the outer wall. The gaps are sealed at the final stage, after connecting the device.

Installation of the indoor unit

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation indoors, where to start? First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or radiators - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.

Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for heating, water pipes, and electrical wiring.

Fastening a metal plate from standard components for installing air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is 10 cm, from the corner of the walls at least 5 cm. The two points are connected with a meter and a horizontal line is marked. The indoor unit is installed on a fixed metal plate.

The next stage of installing the air conditioner, or more precisely, its internal unit, is preparing holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for discharging liquid condensate. The internal space should be sufficient to freely place all elements in the wall.

Self-installation of the air conditioner is impossible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this purpose, wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the panel (the indicator can accurately determine the “phase” and “neutral” wire).

The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other by multi-core wiring (it is inserted into a hole prepared in the wall). The installation diagram is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners yourself at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise there is a risk of short circuit.

Pipe laying instructions

The standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender; when used, the metal does not crack and no dents are formed. Proper preparation also includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation.

Special threaded flanges are placed on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the danger of the formation of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit into the rolling process without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because... Copper pipes have different sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, and the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.

At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting the plastic pipe to the reinforced housing. For reliable fastening, use the heat-shrinkable tube included in the delivery set. It is better to install the drainage pipe at the maximum distance from the base of the wall.

Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing the pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater tubes are secured with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them to connect to the outdoor unit.

Indoors, the holes are blown out with polyurethane foam, or, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on the balcony and in the house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. The soap solution is washed off with a sponge or cloth. If defects are detected, the thread is tightened.

Evacuation of the air exchange system

Correct installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should know that to remove moisture, dust and small particles from the climate control device, the system is vacuumed. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the connections, because It is impossible to completely get rid of the air. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, pumping out the air takes about 1 hour.

Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The reservoir on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on automatically, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and effective air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with polyurethane foam followed by decoration.

Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because... These are expensive climate control systems that require specialized equipment to set up. Spare parts are included as standard; you don’t have to buy anything additional.

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what order to carry out the relevant work.

Installing an air conditioner yourself: secrets of professionals

The installation diagram for window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in winter. You just have to be content with not very comfortable conditions. No water or snow should get into the line. It is better to install and pump in refrigerant at above-zero temperatures outside (at sub-zero temperatures the seal often fails because it is rubber).

To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to vacuum the system. The nut is not screwed to the copper tube completely, then the control valve located at the thick tube is slightly opened. Under pressure, the air will be displaced by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.

This method is incorrect, since it is impossible to check the quality and sealing of the system. Industrial air conditioners are not installed using this technology.

Below is a detailed video instruction that demonstrates the main stages of installing climate control systems with your own hands.