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How to make country paths with your own hands. How to make a garden path at your dacha with your own hands: technologies and review of materials. Original ideas for arranging garden paths

You can make paths in your dacha with your own hands from the most different materials by selecting suitable option from those presented below. How the paths will be designed suburban area, its entire design largely depends. Even in such conditions, when it is not possible to perform labor-intensive and expensive work, you can choose more affordable options that have been developed and already tested by folk craftsmen.

For example, ordinary bricks or round timber sawn from logs, round, medium-sized pebbles or ordinary corks from plastic bottles. There are also removable options for tracks that can be laid exclusively for the summer period. By the way, such paths can also not only be purchased ready-made, but also made independently.

In any case, before laying any garden path, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Design on paper

First of all, you need to schematically place the house and outbuildings on the plan, connecting them to each other and paving the way to the entrance gate - these will be the main paths, which in any case cannot be avoided.

Then, you need to plan paths leading from the house to various areas of the site, for example, to a gazebo, swimming pool, playground or zone.

If there is a need, then, having brought the path to the garden or vegetable garden, it is worth branching it in such a way that it is convenient to reach every corner of the site in any weather, since the absence of paths is especially unpleasant for moving on “bare” ground during or immediately after rain .

Once the project has been drawn up, you can transfer it to the site.

Marking on the ground

To determine the width and direction of the paths, it is necessary to mark the area. This is especially important if they are maintained in certain widths - for example, laid out from ready-made tiles or bricks.

Marking is carried out using driven pegs and a cord pulled over them. To make it more convenient to visually estimate what the direction will look like and whether the width of the path is sufficient, each border on the sides can be sprinkled with a little lime.

The best option is if, along with the path, you immediately mark the location of the plants that will frame it, since everything on the ground looks somewhat different than in the project.

In places where bushes and trees will be planted, which will be located along the path, you can install signs or lay out stones, and mark the boundaries of future flower beds with lime.

It must be remembered that the pit to be torn off must be somewhat wider than the path itself, since in order for it to serve for many years, it must be fenced on both sides with stone or concrete curbs. Whatever material it is planned to build the path from, such a preparatory part will in any case improve the quality of the work and allow the laid path to function for a long time.

Having made the markings, you can begin preparatory excavation work.

Preparing the base for a garden path

To prevent the path from crumbling in a year or becoming overgrown with grass with the same sad outcome, serious preparatory work must be carried out. It must be remembered that the path should have a slight slope in one or both directions. In addition, a small trench is made on the side of the slope into which water will flow during rain.

First of all, from the places where the path will pass, a fertile layer with a thickness of 15 ÷ 200 mm is removed. To ensure that the depth of the pit is approximately the same along its entire length, it is necessary to control its sides using a ruler.

Next, in order to maintain the evenness of the edges of the future path, boards are installed inside, along the entire length of the walls of the pit, but it is advisable to first add and compact a little sand under them.
If the pit is limited by concrete curbs, then their width should be 70 ÷ 100 mm greater than the height of the walls of the pit. The curbs are leveled, and to prevent them from moving, they are fixed with reinforcing bars, which are driven into the ground inside the trench, next to the curbs. The length of the rods should be from 250 to 350 mm, and this segment should be driven in at 200 ÷ 300 mm. The pin remaining above the ground surface will hold the curb in the desired position.

If the walls of the pit turned out to be uneven due to excessively loose soil, then you will also have to drive reinforcing pins along the walls, and then install curbs, pressing them against them, aligning them and also fixing them on the other side pins.

Filling with gravel or crushed stone to create a “pillow” ...

Next, crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand or cement is poured into the bottom of the pit. can range from 50 to 100 mm after compaction.

...and careful compaction to maximum density

After backfilling and distribution throughout the pit, the resulting surface is periodically moistened and thoroughly compacted.

The type of material being poured will largely depend on the overall thickness of the “cushion” and the type of top decorative coating. Also, do not forget that between the “cushion” and the top lining, most often there should still be a layer of sand.

Types of garden paths for a suburban area

As mentioned above, paths can be made of different materials. It is worth considering the installation of some of them in order to accurately determine the choice of the most suitable option.

brick path

Brick makes a fairly reliable, durable and aesthetic path. It is laid, in principle, using the same technology as paving slabs or. In order for such a path to last a long time, you need to choose high-quality clinker bricks and carry out work very neat.

The base for the path, with a compacted top layer of sand, needs to be well leveled using a homemade rule.

The rule is made from boards with perfectly even and smooth end sides. The board should be 200 mm longer than the width of the path. The corners of the bottom of the board are cut to the thickness of the brick. Upper, longer, uncut parts the boards will serve as a stop and limiter when leveling the sand layer.

When the entire sand layer is leveled, you can begin installing the side bricks in the path, which are installed on the edge and driven half-width into the sand with a rubber hammer.

Laying and driving in a line of “border” bricks

If the construction of the path does not include a curb, then the side bricks are fastened together with mortar, and after it hardens and is removed, they must be secured on the outside with reinforcing pins, and then a backfill of crushed stone must be made, which will need to be thoroughly compacted.
After installing the side bricks on both sides of the path, you need to decide what pattern will be laid out in the middle of the path. The brick can be installed on the end or laid on its wide side.

To make the masonry rigid, you need to lay one row along and the other across the path, driving the bricks into the sand at the same height as the framing ones. However, to make the path as reliable as possible, it is recommended to fasten the bricks together with a cement-based adhesive solution intended for street work - this will also reduce the risk of grass growing in the cracks between the bricks.

It is advisable to place the mortar in such a way that it does not protrude from above, but remains inside the masonry, which means that it will not be needed too much a large number of.

After completing the laying of the path, the gaps between the bricks are filled with sand. To do this, it is poured onto the path and distributed with a long-haired brush, first over one area, then in another - and so on until all the gaps are completely filled.

The remaining excess sand is swept off the surface with the same brush.

Next, when the path is almost ready, the formwork from the boards is removed from its sides. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured along the outer edge of the path and carefully compacted, and another layer of crushed stone is freely poured on top of it.
To brighten the color and prolong its service life, it is recommended to treat the brick with a penetrating primer, and after it dries, coat it with varnish that is suitable for stone in outdoor conditions.

With some assumption, a type of such paths can be considered those that are laid out from thick. How the process occurs is shown in detail in the video.

Prices for paving stones

Paving stones

TOP 5 best manufacturers of paving slabs

	Name	Rating
#1	Group of companies "Vybor"	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	BRAER II Company	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	STEINGOT Company	⭐ 97 / 100
#4	Factory "Gothic"	⭐ 96 / 100
#5	Company "Stone Age"	⭐ 95 / 100

Factory "Gothic"

Video - Laying paving slabs with your own hands

Round timber path

Option #1

To “pave” the path with posts, you need to take a dried tree of one of the hardwoods. The round wood must have a flat surface, so sawing them must be done very carefully.

Then the surface of the stumps is cleaned and leveled.

To create a path, logs of different diameters are taken so that the space in the pit can be filled as tightly as possible.

The height of the round timber should be twice the height of the walls of the pit, counting from compacted crushed stone, that is, the columns should rise above the surface of the soil located around the future path by 100 ÷ 130 mm.

When the log blanks are prepared, it is necessary to treat their lower part with an antiseptic, which will protect the wood from biological pests and the negative impact of ground moisture on it.

This is best done by placing the hemp one by one in a container with liquid and leaving for 3 ÷ 4 minutes. The rest of the surface is simply applied with a wide brush. Before installing paths in the pit, the round timber is thoroughly dried.

After drying, the hemp is dipped in “Kuzbass varnish” for a few seconds - it will perfectly protect the wood from moisture. However, the disadvantage of this composition is that its structure is destroyed by exposure to ultraviolet rays and overheating. However, if it only treats the lower part of the stumps, which will be covered by the pit wall, sand, geotextiles and crushed stone, then such harmful effects do not threaten.

A replacement for varnish can be ordinary heated tar, which, when cooled, forms a fairly dense film on the surface of the stumps - it is not afraid of either high temperature or sunlight.

Prepared round timber from trunks of different diameters begins to be installed on compacted on the bottom pit crushed stone as follows:

— The transverse wall of the pit at the beginning of the path is filled with a small amount of sand

— Then, the first row of round timber is installed. It must be carefully selected in size so that it fits as tightly as possible.

— Sand is poured between the logs to the level of the top of the pit walls.

— Similar cyclical manipulations continue until the end of the path.

Along the edge of the path, a sandy border is filled and compacted.

Option No. 2

Another option using round stumps, which is installed in combination with crushed stone or gravel.

In this case, only a curb is assembled from stumps, and the remaining stages of work with removing soil, pouring sand and installing stumps to the walls of the pit are carried out in the same way as a path made entirely of logs. The process takes place in the following sequence:

A “cushion” of sand is poured and compacted at the bottom of the pit;
Then, along the edge of the future path, stumps are installed, which are driven in at one level and sprinkled with sand. The sand bedding is compacted directly near the bottom of the stumps;
After the borders of logs are completely laid out, geotextiles are laid on the entire surface of the path, the edges whom bent onto stumps by 80 ÷ 100 mm;

The next step is to make an embankment of gravel or mid-fraction crushed stone directly onto geotextiles;

The gravel embankment is distributed over the entire area of the path in an even layer. If necessary, the layer is increased, since it should be equal in height to the ground level of the entire site.

The gravel layer should act as a second retaining wall for the stumps in the border.

If the tops of the stumps have different colors, and you want to achieve harmony in the design of the path, then they can be coated with paint intended for external work, and the shade in this case is selected to the taste of the owner of the site.

Path made of round river stones

For those who value originality - a mosaic path made of river stone

Paths with amazing curls are made from Altai river stone, which has bluish shades, from very light to dark gray-blue. To make such a wonderful path, you need to prepare round and oval smooth stones of different sizes, clean sand, a rubber or wooden hammer, cement, a sponge, a level, and, of course, water.

Preparatory work is carried out in almost the same way as when installing a brick path, but with minor deviations.

The whole process begins with sorting the stones, as they may have small defects. If the flaw is not too large, then it can be hidden by turning the stone with its even side up.

Having sorted through the stones, you need to choose a pattern that is suitable in size to the width of the path, the base for which has already been prepared. If you don’t find a suitable one, then you can easily compose it yourself, using squares as a basis for a design, into which curlicue shells will fit perfectly.

Option #1

The drawing from the sketch is transferred to the prepared base. The curl must be placed in the marked square, and it is desirable that this square has all four sides sides, which will not allow the mosaic to fall apart.

Since the base is made of crushed stone, the marking can be done with lime.

The next step is to mix sand with cement, approximately 3:1 or 4:1, add water and make a thick mixture, from which a side with a width equal to the length of the pebbles is laid out according to the markings. The stripes are arranged in small areas to make it easier to level stones in them.
An oval stone with rounded edges is folded into a small path - it is placed on the side and slightly pressed into the solution.

If the solution has already hardened a little, then to level all the stones, you can knock on them with a rubber hammer.

When one of the strips is laid out, its evenness must be checked using building level– there should be no strong protrusions above the general level of the track.

So, looking at your sketch, row by row, they lay out a similar stone mosaic. It can use both small oval smooth stones, installed on an edge, and round ones, if they fit well into the pattern being created.

In addition, you can use different shades of stones, for example, laying out one strip with light stones, another with dark ones, or making a smooth color transition.
Depending on the intended design, the stones can be installed in height. The main thing is to maintain constant control using a level.

After one of the parts of the mosaic is laid out, it is watered with water using a sprayer. This will not only strengthen the hardening solution, but will also wash away excess of it from the surface of the mosaic.

So, dividing the drawing into separate parts, gradually, in accordance with the sequence thought out in advance, they lay out the entire plane allocated for the mosaic. As a result, it should be densely filled with stones.

Option No. 2

Another option can be called simpler, since the stones are placed immediately in leveled wet sand, without the use of cement.

However, so that the created composition does not fall apart prematurely, it must be laid out in a limited space. For this purpose, installed curbs with temporary partitions can serve, since the mosaic is laid out in parts, or a kind of formwork made of boards, which is removed only after compacting each of the parts.

So, on a base with compacted crushed stone, curbs are placed and leveled, as well as temporary partitions that will limit the area of work being carried out.
Next, wet sand is poured into the resulting form, compacted and leveled with a rule. The height of the sand cushion should be 20 ÷ 30 mm below the sides of the curb or formwork - this is exactly the height at which the stones will remain on the surface, and the laid mosaic will need to be leveled along the curb.

Lines are drawn along the leveled sand surface along which the stone mosaic will be laid.

It is more convenient to lay out the stones not one at a time, but to immediately place them in a path and, tapping them on top with a rubber hammer, deepen them to the desired level. If necessary, the sand must be additionally moistened.

While carrying out work, the height of the stones must be constantly monitored using.

Having laid out a certain section of the mosaic, until the sand has dried, you need to go over the entire surface again with a rubber hammer, and then you need to pour more dry sand or a mixture of sand and cement on top. The excess of such backfill must then be immediately swept away with a brush.

After the laid surface has completely dried, you can brush the surface again.

After a few hours, the sand will compact and sink slightly between the stones. After this, you need to repeat the procedure with bedding and splashing.

After the mosaic dries again, all the stones are washed with a wet sponge.

The entire composition is moistened with water every day for a week - this is necessary for the path to “gain hardness”.
If work is being done When installing a mosaic in an open space, then in order to avoid its erosion by rain, it is best to cover the entire composition with thin foam rubber at night. It will allow water to pass through, but will not allow sand to wash out.
If the work was carried out in formwork made of boards, after completing the masonry and its temporary fencing, it is necessary to strengthen the path by covering it with stones or bricks in the form of a border.

concrete path

For a concrete path, marking is done in the same way as described above, and then soil is excavated along the marked area.

Then, sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, which is moistened and compacted. The final thickness of the compacted layer should be 60 ÷ 70 mm.

Crushed stone is poured on top of the compacted sand, which also needs to be compacted.

A reinforcing grid is installed on the crushed stone, which will make the path much stronger.

Then, you can do one of two ways, depending on what kind of track you want to get.

1. If a flat surface is to be obtained, then a thin one is made, which is used to fill the formwork.

— In the case when concrete is poured into the space between already installed curbs, the rule will need to be made independently, and it should have the same basic form as the one described in the section about leveling sand when constructing a brick path.

— The finished path is reinforced with iron. To do this, dry cement is sprinkled onto a still damp surface in a thin layer, which is immediately rubbed in gently using grout. Commercially available strengthening topping mixtures can also be used.

2. If the path is planned to be made using a form that helps imitate stone laying, then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork in two layers.

— The first layer is poured to half the height of the formwork and also leveled using the rule. In this case, a rough mortar consisting of cement and gravel is used. The surface should be fairly level, and to achieve this, it is recommended to install beacons of the required height and level the concrete along them.

— After the concrete has set, a form is placed on its surface and filled with a thin solution. It is leveled on the surface of the mold. The form filled with concrete is left to harden for 3 ÷ 5 days.

Curly shapes to achieve the effect of a “paved path”

If there is only one form, then the work, of course, will take too long, so when using such technology it is advisable to have at least two similar forms at your disposal. It should be noted that with their help you can design not only paths, but also the floor in the gazebo, the area near the gate or near the garage.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Cement and base mixtures

Video: example of using a form to fill a “paved” path

Garden paths made from lids

Very interesting option tracks - it turns out that it can be made from caps from ordinary plastic bottles. Thanks to their bright, varied colors, they can be used to create various ornamental designs that will help decorate the garden landscape.

The only difficulty that will be encountered on the path of the master who decides to make this work will be collecting the required number of these “mosaic elements” of the future path.

Having decided to do this work, you need to start collecting the lids in advance. While the drilling process is going on, you can think about what pattern to choose for the path and draw up a rough sketch of it.

Don't wait until it's completely assembled required quantity covers for the entire length of the path. Having collected a certain number of them, you can begin to assemble elements of the future canvas from them. For example, to assemble the fragment shown in the photo, you will need only 19 caps.

A large number of caps are usually found in summer time on the beach. And by the way, you can get triple benefits from the collection process:

- at least slightly clean the beach sand from foreign objects;

- breathe fresh air while walking on the beach;

- get the material for making the path completely free of charge.

To connect the lids into the desired pattern, you will need a “gypsy” needle, an awl, always with a wooden handle, and a large amount of fishing line. Wooden handle is needed due to the fact that the awl will have to be heated over a fire so that holes can be easily made in the lids to fasten them together.
Holes for the passage of a needle are pierced on the sides of the covers, as shown in the photo above.
First, individual elements are assembled according to the prepared sketch , and when several of them are ready, they are connected to each other.
The work of assembling the elements of such a track is quite long and painstaking, but it does not require T ore-intensive preparation of the base associated with excavation or concrete work.

If you have the material and the necessary diligence and patience, you can “pave” fairly large areas

When the mat of lids is completely ready, the place for it is prepared as follows:

- marked space for installation, sprayed with weed killer;

- then, a prepared mat of lids is placed on it;

— so that less soil falls on the surface of the path during operation, it is recommended to install a border made of brick or stone along the path;

- to do this, the top soil is removed to a depth of approximately two-thirds of the brick, and then the space of the trench is filled halfway with sand, into which the brick is placed at an angle and tapped. The side gaps between the soil and the brick are also filled with sand, which is moistened in advance.

Prefabricated paths made of plastic slabs

Mobile garden paths can be laid quickly, without arranging a base for them, using special plastic panels.

From them you can assemble a path of any width, since they have fastenings that will allow you to connect them both along and across.

Connecting elements Having a sufficiently large size, they impart rigidity to the structure, since every two slabs are fastened in two places and serve as a kind of support legs.

The advantage of such slab panels is not only the speed of installation, but also the fact that their surface is absolutely non-slippery, such paths can withstand quite heavy loads, and they are very durable in use.

For the manufacture of plates, frost-resistant plastic is used, which can withstand not only low temperatures up to - 35÷40, but also high up to + 45÷50 degrees. However, there is no particular point in leaving such a garden path for the winter - if desired, it can be quickly and easily disassembled, stacked and sent for storage in one of the outbuildings. The tiles will not take up much space, and in the spring the path will not be so difficult to lay out again as soon as possible anywhere in the area.

The tile has a very convenient size for working with it - it is 570 × 570 mm in width and length, and its thickness is 22 mm.

In addition, the convenience of such tiles also lies in the fact that water does not accumulate on them, since there are longitudinal holes on the surface.

By the way, on winter period you can lay out a rug from such tiles in front of front door— its surface is corrugated, which means it will not allow you to slip and get injured.

This option for arranging garden paths does not require much effort for installation, since the tiles can be laid both on and on the soil surface. If grass begins to grow through the holes in the tiles, the path can easily be moved or disassembled, and after getting rid of the grass, it can be collected and put back in place.

"Garden parquet"

“Garden parquet” is quite expensive type of material that They are used not only for laying on the site, but also for decorating floors in gazebos, verandas, terraces and balconies.

Expensive, but very cool - “garden parquet”

It has characteristics similar to plastic plates. This option is excellent for laying on garden paths - “garden parquet” is also quickly assembled and disassembled, since it has special fastenings for this, which have their own specific features.

Fastening "garden parquet" tiles

Detailed panels may have different arrangements of the elements that make up its design. They are laid on compacted gravel mixture or fine crushed stone.

Laying garden parquet will never take much time

This “parquet” is made from wood that has been treated in a special way and does not react to ordinary external “irritants” - it is not afraid of humidity, direct Sun rays, temperature changes, biological effects. However, in addition to wood, for the manufacture of “garden parquet” (relatively inexpensive models), special plastic is used, which perfectly imitates natural wood. It is clear that the second option of parquet flooring is much more accessible to the average property owner

So, there are a very large number of country paths. After careful review, you can always choose one that is suitable in terms of price, design and complexity of doing all the work yourself. Therefore, if the time comes to plan a site, you need to carefully think through all the nuances and calculate your strengths and capabilities.

Video: Variety of options for garden paths

Group of companies "Vybor"

A large domestic holding for the production of paving slabs. The manufacturer's assortment consists of standard tiles and exclusive collections, including the type with granite chips. German equipment is used in the production of tiles, the entire process is automated. The production technology of semi-dry vibratory pressing gives the paving stones a high degree of compaction. Paving slabs with a granite textured layer are especially popular among consumers.

environmentally friendly (does not contain harmful components);

not slippery.

sale exclusively in multiples of a pallet;
presence of marriage.

Paving slabs STEINGOT

Factory "Gothic"

The factory's paving slabs are represented by four collections: Profi, Natur, Premium and Granite. One of the most economical is the Profi collection, made from high-quality M400 concrete. In the average pricing policy - Natur. Premium class stylized as natural stone. Decorative aggregates are used in the production of this collection: gravel, granite and more. The Granite collection is the most expensive, it repeats the texture and color of the original granite slab.

exclusive collections;
environmental friendliness.

focuses more on municipal orders.

Company "Stone Age"

Today the manufacturer offers various options paving, including curb stones, retaining blocks, etc. For production, the company uses an automated German OMAG line. The company's product range has special collections. For example, the Belpasso Premium collection is produced without bevels, with its help you can implement a “barrier-free environment” project with an even surface.

production using German technology;
large assortment, including special collections;

STEINGOT Company

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Factory "Gothic"

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Company "Stone Age"

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Walking barefoot on asphalt is less pleasant than walking on seashells, polished cobblestones or sun-warmed logs. The road surface, without which a metropolis is unthinkable, is inappropriate in a country estate. Almost every day, the owners walk around its territory without shoes, and the kids generally crawl on all fours.

When gardening, it is important to pay attention not only to high-quality care of fruit plants, but also to remember the general arrangement and appearance of the garden. Garden paths Do-it-yourself furniture not only creates ease of movement around household premises, but is also a special part of the overall design. In this article we will talk about arranging paths with our own hands.

Garden paths - how to combine beauty and convenience

Country house, a private house, a cottage requires not only arrangement of the interior and exterior, but also embellishment of the area around it. Often owners want to combine practicality and aesthetics in one project. You can realize your idea by laying garden paths.

What you need to know and consider during construction

Any design begins with a concept, a thorough study of the area and a plan. The first step is to determine the directions, length, width of future paths, imagine their shape, decoration. Next we need to analyze bearing capacity soil to choose the right type building material and only then plan.

You need to draw up a drawing on paper, there will be an opportunity to correct, redo, supplement. There are several important factors to pay attention to:

Components must be resistant to aggressiveness environment- high humidity, fungi, corrosion.
It is good to tolerate temperature fluctuations of different seasons.
Provide for a possible increase in loads (car, loaded wheelbarrow).
The optimal angle of inclination of the canvas to avoid the accumulation of water from precipitation.

Advice from a landscape designer - in compact areas it is better to lay not straight garden paths, but with wavy bends and turns. This visually expands the space and deepens niches for plants.

Each owner decides what to build a path from independently, based on financial capabilities, needs and fantasies. Every coating needs a base. The ideal option would be a compacted earthen embankment or crushed stone cushion.

The most popular materials for DIY garden paths:

A natural stone. It looks noble, aesthetically pleasing even with unsmoothed corners.
Artificial substitute. The grace of nature, faceted by man.
Clinker bricks will add bright colors to the garden.
Gravel or large polished pebbles will provide originality.
Wood is an affordable, simple, but short-lived look. Looks impressive separately and in a composition.
Decking is garden plastic parquet. New material, resistant to ultraviolet radiation, water, mold, rot.

The decorative effect of the structure largely depends on the methods of laying the blanks. The canvas can be solid, smooth, or consist of separately located elements of different geometric shapes. By laying out a path of large “leaves”, “butterflies”, “flowers”, it is easy to enjoy the comfort and pleasant walk.

Types of garden paths

Everyone who has a dacha and, albeit small, but their own personal plot, will think more than once about ways to decorate and transform it. There is not always enough finance to realize ideas and fantasies. Many will ask: “What should we do then?” The answer is quite simple: if you want to improve your garden paths, but you don’t have the money for a landscape designer or expensive components, then you should pay attention to available and more affordable materials.

Useful for arranging garden paths with your own hands various types stones, boards, wood cuts, river pebbles and even plastic bottle caps. Now a little about each of the options.

Paths made of natural stone

They fit into any site design. They look natural and correct installation can last forever.

Such paths look very impressive. If there are stones left after the nearest construction, you can use them. Or those left over after installation will do alpine slide. They have uneven shapes, which makes them ideal for a picturesque path.

Path made of natural stone

First you need to calculate the number of pebbles. One of the methods is rough placement of stones. This way you can estimate whether the amount of material you have is enough.

Sprinkle the area for the path with sand and compact it well. It turned out to be a kind of “pillow” for the pebbles. They need to be processed, adjusted to shape, and made more uniform. For good joining and grinding, you can use a grinder or other not very powerful types of tools. Having prepared the stones, they are placed in a mosaic composition.

Since all the stones are different in size, they are adjusted to each other using a rubber hammer. At least one side of the stone must be flat for the path to turn out as it should.

When the mosaic is ready, you need to start sealing the seams between the stones. Otherwise, they will begin to overgrow. Although some may prefer another option, the most natural one: a cement-sand mortar is used for grouting joints.

Concrete paths

They are very similar to stone ones. First make a bed, the depth of which is approximately 10 cm. Then pour sand on the bottom and compact it. Fill the top with a mixture of concrete and sand, install the formwork around the edges. Before the solution hardens, pour pebbles into it. Lay out your intended pattern from it. A drainage system must be installed next to such a path.

Sometimes a concrete path is made using a ready-made mold. It is easy to buy at a hardware store. And then just pour the concrete mixture into the mold in the place you need, level it with a trowel, remove the excess and remove the mold. It is very light and quick way Moreover, you can lay out this form in at least several rows.

How to make concrete paths with your own hands using ready-made forms

Wooden paths

Wooden paths will last a long time, but at the beginning they require maintenance. They can be laid out from sawn boards or timber, using what remains from the construction of the house.

Wooden paths

Prepare boards and blocks; the latter can be replaced with steel corners or pipes. Treat them with protective impregnations or bitumen mastic. After soaking, nail the boards to the blocks. Mount the path on top using hemp of various calibers. Paint them one or more colors.

But in domestic climatic conditions, the most modern impregnations will not protect the boards from deformation, rotting and corrosion, so imitation wood is often used as a material for paths - tiles with a corresponding pattern.

It will be possible to select such perfect samples that no one will detect the difference at a distance. It is felt only after tactile contact. The tiles reliably depict the natural texture of pine, beech, oak and other species in cross-section - as a result, the ersatz is indistinguishable from the original.

DIY gravel garden paths

Gravel is a simple material that has good flowability, allows moisture to pass through, and is relatively cheap. It can be used to make paths of any width and length, and perhaps even give them different shapes. This path looks neat and fits harmoniously into any landscape. Making it yourself will not be difficult.

DIY gravel garden paths

The order of execution of the gravel path

First you will need to mark the path around the area. Marking is carried out with pre-prepared wooden pegs. You can stretch a string between the pegs if you find it difficult to determine the direction by eye.
Next, according to the markings, prepare the bed. To do this, dig a trench in the ground. The depth of the trench can be about 14 – 17 cm.
Prepare the gravel. It is advisable, if possible, to view it and remove unwanted impurities (broken glass, sharp large stones, etc.). Handling gravel should be done with thick gloves.
Backfill gravel to the depth of the trench. You can level it with a rake or your hands (also use gloves).
Next, the laid gravel is compacted.
At the end, along the edge of the path you can lay curbstone. This will give an even more impressive and finished look. The stone is secured with a cement foundation. It can be laid either flush with the canvas or slightly above it.

This algorithm is also suitable for constructing a sand garden path. Accordingly, gravel is replaced with sand, and then all work is carried out according to the same scheme.

DIY brick garden paths

This is a very fragile type of material. Before laying it is necessary to check for strength. First, mark the path using string and pegs.

Remove the soil (25 cm), place drainage underneath. In this case, it will be simple, but the main thing is that water does not penetrate. It is necessary to pour crushed stone on top of the drainage system. The boards are laid sideways along the edges. Then the brick is laid. You can come up with a wide variety of brick designs.

Clinker brick path

A garden path lined with brick chips looks great. It is also permissible to sprinkle it on a concrete path. Beautiful mosaics are made from broken bricks. If the bricks different colors, from them are laid out beautiful patterns. You can leave space between them to fill it with small stones, pebbles or soil, so that later there will be a green island there.

Homemade path made of brick and stone

Sandstone path

They are made dry or using cement pouring. This method is similar to laying a stone path, but the first one is more natural and original.

Dig a trench, removing part of the soil. Pour sand in there and compact it. The middle part should be higher than the edges. You need to walk a bit on the slope. This is a dehumidification system. Next comes the processing of the stones.

Sandstone can come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Try on each stone before cutting.

Level the stones, making the gaps as small as possible. The processed stones are laid out as you like. For a classic path you need a bucket of sand and the same amount of mixture with cement. Under each pebble you must first put the first one, then the second one. Moreover, the cement should protrude slightly. You need to press the stone tightly. The completed path must be washed so as not to spoil the aesthetics with cement residues. The seams are filled with soil or sand.

Path made from wood cuts

Such a path will look very beautiful and attractive.

Path made from wood cuts

The cuts must be taken of different sizes, laying them so that there is no free space between them. Before laying, round timber must be treated with an antiseptic composition.

Saw cuts for garden paths

Another option is to use round timber as borders and add a layer of gravel between them.

While staying at the dacha, you want to move away from city life, because all around, if not a forest, then a garden, some lucky ones even have a lake or river. In a word, no matter what the surrounding landscape is, it encourages you to get closer to nature.

An interesting idea is a path stylized as a forest one. It consists of fragments of ordinary tree stumps. Round plates different sizes laid along the edge of the pond and concreted.

The side of the artificial pond is made from them. It is pleasant to sit on such stumps to sunbathe; touching your feet with them also gives rise to positive sensations.

Plastic garden paths

Such country paths sold as modules, ready-made. Their installation does not require surface preparation or treatment. They are very easy and quick to install, very economical, and characterized by durability and long service life. They can be laid out on any site, in the form of any composition. They are environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing.

River pebble paths

Working with these pebbles will be difficult, time-consuming and will not end quickly. They are placed in a pre-limited space in wet sand and compacted to the required depth. The process takes several days.

River pebble paths

It happens that the design of country houses is based on imitation of the styles of past times - the ancient era, British classicism, etc. Then you should choose slabs ornamented in accordance with the general concept of the site and the residential building. They may have impressions of Mediterranean pebbles, ancient bricks, etc.

Paths made from plastic bottle caps

The most original and interesting way is to lay out a path or part of it plastic lids from bottles. Due to the fact that the lids have a variety of colors, you can create patterns and mosaics, even creating entire paintings.

The only disadvantage of this improvised material is its collection, because you will need a lot of lids.

Garden path made of reinforced concrete tiles

Stages of work:

Do-it-yourself ready-made garden path made of reinforced concrete tiles

From lined ceramic tiles mosaic type

Paving stones, stone path

The slabs are laid on a layer of sand, with seeds sown in between lawn grass. Haircut is carried out as usual electric lawn mower. The photo was taken 3 years after installation.

These are just the basic materials from which you can make country paths with your own hands. Human imagination is limitless, so by the next summer season they will probably come up with something else. Paths for dachas are made with your own hands from any, sometimes unexpected, material. For example, from glass bottles. You can create combinations from different types material in one composition.

Remember that such paths carry not just convenience and benefit, but also beauty, pleasure for the eyes, and harmony. Imagine, invent, create.

Independently choosing materials for garden paths and the driveway to your dacha can sometimes be difficult. Then you just need to set aside time for a scrupulous study of catalogs or the means to consult with specialists. The result will justify all these costs.

Video master classes

Neat paths, gracefully winding between green spaces and landscape decor, are an integral attribute of any garden. So, if you want your site to be truly well-groomed and complete, do not neglect the paths. Fortunately, to arrange them you don’t need to spend fabulous sums and involve professional designers - you can make beautiful paths with your own hands, seriously saving on both materials and labor. How? There are many answers to this question, because there are a huge number of types of garden paths that can be laid at low cost. Next, we offer you instructions for the most popular options with accompanying photos and videos - after reading them, you will definitely be able to effectively improve your area.

Wooden round timber - very simple, but original material for garden paths. Raw materials for them can be found on every site - there are probably old trees everywhere that would be time to replace them with new seedlings. It is advisable to use larch or oak - they are the most resistant to external influences, which means they can boast a long service life. The path from the saw cuts is made according to the following scheme:

Advice. In order to protect the path from moisture and increase its durability, arrange simple drainage - place a layer of fine crushed stone between the sand cushion and the saw cuts.

Durable paths made of stones

One of the most durable options for garden paths is made of natural stone. Here you can use cobblestones or rubble - they are equally durable. The path is laid as follows:

Mark the garden path.
From the area where you plan to lay the path, remove the top layer of drainage. The depth of this layer should be 7-10 cm greater than the height of the largest stone prepared for the path.
Fill the resulting trench with a 10 cm layer of sand, carefully level it and compact it.
Place the stones one at a time on the sand cushion, pressing them firmly into the base. The distance between small stones should be no more than 2-3 cm, and between large ones - up to 8-10 cm.
Carefully fill the remaining gaps cement mortar. Once the track has set, fill the seams with soil or fine sand to make them look more natural.

Garden path made of stones

Classic concrete paths in the country

Concrete is a traditional material for laying paths, which is always popular due to its low cost and ease of use. Anyone can definitely make a cast path:

Mark the boundaries of the path - drive pegs along its contour and stretch a wire between them.
Within the designated contours, dig a small trench up to 30 cm deep.
Place a 5 cm layer of gravel and the same layer of sand on the bottom of the base. Compact the resulting pillow.
Cover the base with chain-link or any other thin metal mesh.
Install lumber formwork along the perimeter of the future path.
Prepare a cement mortar: 1 part dry cement, 1.5 parts sand, 2 parts gravel and 1 part water.
Pour the cent and evenly, with vibrating movements, using a spatula, distribute the composition over the entire area of the path. During installation, pierce the mixture with a rod to prevent the formation of voids.
Using the rule, finish leveling the path and cover it with polyethylene.

concrete path

In 3-4 days the path will be ready. All this time, do not forget to gently moisten it with water to protect the concrete from cracking and give it maximum strength.

Advice. To make the path more interesting, even before the concrete mixture has completely set, “drown” various decorative pebbles, glass or shells into it.

Budget garden paths made from tires

Transport tires have long been widely used in dacha farming: they are used to make flower beds, ponds, swings, and now also garden paths. This trend is not surprising, given operational features material: tires are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, easy to care for, non-slip and durable. You can arrange a garden path out of them like this:

Tire garden path

Using a knife, divide the tires into two parts: rolling tracks and sidewalls. To make the knife fit into the rubber easier, lubricate it regularly with oil or soap.
Cut ribbons from the resulting rings. Adjust them to length and trim the edges.
Take wide wooden boards and carefully nail rubber bands onto them so that they completely cover the wood - there should be no empty spaces between the elements.
Remove the top layer of soil no more than 5 cm deep along the entire length of the future path and press wooden boards into the base. If desired, the rubber can be painted.

Country paths made of bricks

Another traditional material for garden paths is brick. It is recommended to use clinker products, as they are characterized by high resistance to various types of chemical and mechanical influences. It is important that the bricks are intact and without chips, otherwise the path will turn out not only unaesthetic, but also unsafe.

Brick garden path

The path is laid in this way:

Mark the path: drive a peg around the perimeter and stretch a rope between them.
Dig a trench along the marked contour - up to 25-35 cm in depth.
Place barriers made of bars or boards along the trench.
Cover the space between the limiters, that is, the “body” of the path, with a 10 cm layer of gravel and compact it thoroughly. Place a layer of sand no more than 5 cm high on top.
Remove the limiters and make curbs in their place: on both sides of the path, lay one row of bricks in the “edge” position.
Form from bricks inner space paths: lay them in the usual position, gently tapping them with a wooden spatula or rubber mallet until they settle.

Advice. The bricks do not have to be laid closely - to give the path a more original look, leave small gaps and fill them with pebbles. In addition, you don’t even have to cover the gaps - after a while grass will grow in them and decorate the path.

Multi-format wooden walkways

Wood is one of the most beneficial materials for making garden paths, as it can be used in completely different forms. Let's consider two common options: paths made of boards and paths made of bark.

Site preparation in both cases looks the same: Path made of boards

Further technologies diverge. So, if you are making a path from boards, prepare the component elements: adjust them in length and width and treat them with an antiseptic. If desired, you can give them a twisted shape. Next, install wooden supports along the edges and in the center of the trench along its entire length and secure them with cement mortar. The final stage is to nail the prepared planks to the supports.

If you want to build a path from bark, make sure that the material is durable - it should not crumble. Be sure to treat the bark with an antiseptic. Before fixing the material in the trench, lay a sand cushion on its base, and then drown the bark in it.

Garden paths made of tiles

Although tile cannot be called a very cheap material, it is still used very often for making garden paths. There are several reasons for this: aesthetic appearance, good performance and ease of working with the material. The technology for laying tile paths will convince you of the latter:

Now you know a lot interesting ways make a garden path with your own hands at low cost. Following simple instructions, you can implement any of the above options on your site, so feel free to get to work and discover new opportunities for improving your garden area.

Garden paths at the dacha: video

Garden paths, elegantly winding among the trees, add to the area well-groomed and complete. And it’s not at all necessary to buy them to arrange them. paving slabs, hire a designer and builders. You can improve the paths in the garden yourself, putting your soul into their creation, and in return you will receive a durable, well-maintained coating that can delight you for many years. We’ll tell you in more detail how to make a garden path from a variety of materials with your own hands.

Types of garden paths

Garden paths can be classified according to many criteria, ranging from the material of manufacture, size and method of arrangement, to design and compliance with a certain style. Let's consider which garden paths can be arranged on your site with low costs for their production.

Garden path made using a plastic mold

Improving garden paths with plastic molds- relatively new way, which, thanks to its simplicity, has found many fans among owners of summer cottages.

Proof of this are numerous photos from specialized forums where you can see just such garden paths.

Advantages This method is not only simple, but also low cost and speed of production, because making garden paths using molds is essentially ordinary concreting.

The cheapness of this method is due to the use of one form, which is sufficient for uninterrupted operation. Of course, the strength of tiles made in this way is inferior to products made by vibration casting in a factory, but for a path in the country they are one of the best options.

Garden path made of paving slabs

The same applies for garden paths. tile, which is laid on sidewalks. The undeniable advantage of this material is strength. Tiles laid in the form of a path in the country will serve you for many years without losing their appearance, and if some elements of the path are damaged under the influence of external factors, they can be easily replaced. IN flaws tile covering we write down labor intensity And high cost. And what do you want? Durability doesn't come for free.

Stone garden path

Very often, the stone left over from the construction of a house is used to improve the paths. In this case, we can assume that the price of such a garden path is equal to the cost of your own labor. We won’t talk about the durability of the stone; paths of this type have been known since ancient times. The disadvantages, as in the case of tiles, are labor intensity.

Laying a stone correctly is not a task for the weak, but it will more than pay off in the result. Do-it-yourself stone paths will give the appearance of your garden real nobility and the appearance of unshakable durability, and they will remain in their original form for your descendants.

Garden path made of chocks and wood

If country house built of logs, then your choice is a path made by yourself from wood. This is one of the cheapest options, very easy to repeat, but, nevertheless, one of the most impressive against the backdrop of trees in the garden. Unfortunately, the service life of such paths is limited due to the fragility of the material, so only the hardest types of wood will have to be used.

Garden path made of bulk materials

If you want to build garden paths with your own hands at low cost, then this method is what you need. It is enough to dig a trench of the required width and fill it up suitable material, ranging from pebbles and screenings to crushed stone or marble chips. You can even lay pieces of marble or concrete slabs in a chaotic order, the main thing is to align their upper surface level and fill the gaps between them. Such garden paths are not suitable for heavy loads, but they can provide the necessary cleanliness and excellent appearance of your garden.

Instructions for creating garden paths in photographs

Garden path using a DIY mold. Step-by-step instruction

To start arranging garden paths using a plastic mold with your own hands, look at photos of such stencils and buy the one you like the most.

Pay attention to the height of the forms and “stones” - they can vary widely.

A lot has been written about how to make paths in your dacha with your own hands. We suggest using the following instructions.

Choosing a place for a garden path and mark it out with our own hands. To do this, we hammer in pegs at all the bends of the path, and then tie them with cord around the entire perimeter. The cord is immediately leveled, taking into account the required height of the path above the ground. A water level can make this task a lot easier.

If the soil on your site is soft, then you need to dig a trench 10-12 cm deep, fill it halfway with sand, after which you need to spill everything with water and compact it. If the soil is sufficiently strong, you can do without a trench, but it is necessary to make a sand backfill followed by compaction.

If you plan to use the paths at your dacha for car passage, you should dig a trench with your own hands, fill it with a sand-gravel mixture, and then lay a reinforcing mesh of steel rod on top of it.

Preparing the solution . To do this, mix grade 400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4. If you plan to use coloring and plasticizing additives, then add them at the rate of 1-3% dye and plasticizer. You can take 4 parts of sand, but make sure that the cement is as fresh as possible and its grade is not lower than 400 .

We begin the production of garden paths by mixing all the components in dry form, after which we add water (if a concrete mixer is used, then half the volume of water is first poured in, and the rest is added during the mixing process).

We begin to prepare the solution Add concrete dye and liquid plasticizer Mix dry Add water with plasticizer and mix again

Let us immediately note that excess water negatively affects the strength of concrete after setting, so the amount of liquid should be no more than that required for high-quality filling of the form. Application plasticizer will significantly facilitate this process, add strength to concrete and reduce cement consumption by up to 15-20%. Fiber fiber can also be added to the solution, which will prevent shrinkage cracks on the surface and increase the abrasion strength of concrete by 100%.

For ease of use of the stencil, we attach handles to it , using special technological holes in the housing. For those who plan to make garden paths at low cost, let us tell you that the mold can be lubricated with automotive “ working out».

Of course, this is not the most perfect option, because the greasy surface of the tiles can only be painted after some time. The use of a soap solution is no less budget-friendly, but even such an environmentally friendly method also has the disadvantage described above.

We lubricate the molds for the garden path with a special lubricant. Lubricating the mold will allow you to easily remove it from the finished product.

Here's the application special lubricant for molds, although it will entail additional costs, it will save you from the need to constantly lubricate the mold for making a garden path with your own hands. A form greased immediately before work will not leave greasy marks, so you can paint such a path immediately after setting.

If the soil you compacted has dried out , then you must definitely spill it with water. Next, guided by the previously stretched cord, and also controlling the level, we install a form for pouring garden paths, which must be slightly pressed into the sand.

Fill the stencil with the prepared solution , avoiding voids in its corners. Using a small tamper, which we use as a vibrating plate, we try to compact the concrete as much as possible, and then level its surface with a spatula. After the 30-50 minutes required for the concrete to pre-set, the form is carefully removed and placed side by side, repeating the process until the finish line.

We begin to gradually fill the form, do not forget that the concrete should not be very liquid. Pay special attention to the corners, you need to fill them as much as possible with concrete mortar.

Since we used a plasticizer and made the solution thick, after 15-20 minutes you can remove the mold. Here the first slab is ready! Let it harden for a day, after which we begin to actively use it. To avoid animal prints

, self-made garden paths are covered with plastic film and waited at least 3-4 days before taking a new path and taking a photo as a souvenir. The full load on the concrete product can be given no earlier than after 20 days. The last stage in the construction of garden paths

Do it yourself at low cost by painting and filling the tile joints with river sand.

There are several ways to paint a new path. The first is to add dye at the final stage of concrete preparation.
. After this, you can lightly mix the concrete, achieving an uneven color, or thoroughly mix the components to obtain a uniform color. The second method requires dusting the wet concrete surface with dry dye each time the mold is removed.

, however, in this case, only the very top layer will be painted, which will be erased over time. Garden paths with stains wiped off precisely after this type of painting can often be seen in photos on the Internet.

DIY paths video tutorial Garden paths painted with your own hands look very interesting. dye dissolved in deep penetration soil

, which allows you to achieve similarity with natural stone at low cost. Stone-effect tiles, painted in a variety of colors, will look especially impressive in your garden. And the last piece of advice: after painting, do not forget to treat the surface of the path with a water repellent - it will not allow moisture to penetrate the pores of the concrete, destroying it from the inside.

Pouring a concrete path with your own hands Monolithic concrete paths laid along summer cottage

. Read on to learn how to make concrete garden paths. , driving pegs along its edges and pulling a cord between them required height. We take into account that the optimal thickness of the fill is from 7 to 10 cm.

Preparing the sand bed . To do this, we dig a trench up to 20 cm deep, level its bottom, install beacons and lay geotextiles, also covering the slopes of the trench with this material. After this, we fill the hole with 2-3 layers of sand with intermediate pouring and compaction of each layer. You can add a layer of fine crushed stone between two adjacent layers of sand. This will enhance the drainage properties of the pillow.

Laying agrofibre Installation of a sand cushion Leveling the sand cushion

Preparing concrete . You can use the recipe from the instructions for filling the molds. If you need a pavement path of increased strength, for example, for driving or parking a car in a country house, then take 1 part of cement (not lower than grade 400), 1.5 parts of sand and 2.5-3 parts of crushed stone or gravel. The ideal volume ratio is 1 part water to 3 parts cement, but to increase the plasticity of the liquid, add a little more. Do not forget that the less water in the solution, the stronger the concrete coating will be.

Formwork is used for garden paths from wooden planks thickness of at least 20 mm. It is better if the width of the boards is equal to the thickness of the fill, otherwise you will have to dig them into the ground. The boards need to be nailed to inside pegs.

Install dividers at even intervals in order to create expansion joints. When making paths at the dacha, dividers can be used from available material. Smooth, narrow strips of drywall, glass, thin boards, scraps of laminate, siding, etc. are suitable for these purposes. In order to remove the spacers after the concrete has set, they must be lubricated with any suitable lubricant.

We carry out reinforcement of the structure to increase its strength. Chain-link mesh, scraps of reinforcement, pipes, etc. are used as reinforcing mesh. Of course, it is best to use a welded reinforcing belt made of rods with a diameter of up to 8 mm, with a cell of 100x100 mm. The reinforcement is placed at half the height of the path, using fragments of bricks or clamps made from the same rods.

Garden paths are poured up to the top edge of the formwork. . Next, using a tamper, we compact the surface until cement milk appears on the surface of the path, and then level it using the rule. Next, cover the path with plastic film and wait at least 5 days before removing the formwork. Full load on concrete can be given no earlier than after 3 weeks.

Decorate the path possible in several ways.

Firstly, the surface can be painted or tiled with marble or ceramic tiles.
Secondly, you can apply a design to it using a shaped spatula, screwdriver or coarse brush.
Thirdly, you can paint the concrete itself at the preparation stage.
Fourthly, gravel or pebbles can be pressed into the wet layer, laying out intricate patterns.

In a word, a garden path made of concrete can be original and attractive, as in numerous videos of popular Internet resources.

DIY garden path made of paving slabs

If you are planning to arrange garden paths with your own hands at low cost, then this method will not suit you. Paving slabs cannot be called a cheap material. On the other hand, such paths have a lot of advantages and are practically free of disadvantages. Watch a video in which you can lay such a garden path yourself. Not so difficult, right? At first glance, this is true. In fact, in order for the sidewalk path laid at the dacha to please the eye for a long time, careful preparation of the base and maximum care and precision in the work are necessary. So, how to make a path from paving slabs with your own hands:

Choosing a tile . At the same time, we focus not only on design, but also on its operational features. For example, for tiles on which you plan to drive a car, the ability to withstand increased loads is important.
Stocking up on tools . For work we will need: a trowel, a rubber hammer, a tamper, a level, a cord, pegs, a pipe or I-beam, sand and cement.

Marking future paths . To do this, we hammer in the pegs and pull the cord to the required height.

Preparing the foundation . The successful operation of the track throughout its entire service life will depend on this work, so we approach this stage with the most responsibility. To do this, we level the base as accurately as possible, removing part of the soil on the hills and adding it in the lowlands. As we work, we constantly compact the soil, wetting its surface with water.

We calculate the depth of the base by calculating the height of the tiles plus the height of the sand layer. To the resulting value add a couple of centimeters for shrinkage. As a rule, the depth is 20-30cm. Do not forget to create the necessary slopes for water drainage from the surface.

After leveling the base, we lay geotextiles . It will prevent weeds from growing into the tile joints.

Pour a sand cushion , spill it with water and tamp it down. After this, we level its surface with a profile, relying on pipes or beams installed at the required distance from each other.

Preparing the mixture from 1 part cement and 3 parts sand, which we lay on the base and screed using an I-beam or channel.
We start laying the tiles from the curb in the direction “away from us” . We lay out the initial row clearly along the cord installed along the chamfer. In this case, you can use 1-2mm crosses to form seams of the same thickness. To ensure the required height, sand is added or removed with a trowel, compacting it as you work. At the same time, do not forget to constantly monitor the quality of installation using a level and a mallet. If you need to join the tiles to other buildings, then, if necessary, they can be trimmed with a grinder with a circle installed for working on stone.

After the last row has been laid, fill the seams with a sand-cement mixture and fill them with water.

A curb installed along the edges of the sidewalk will prevent the tiles from moving and maintain the integrity of the structure. During operation, sand can be washed out of the seams with water, so it will be necessary to add it periodically.

Wooden garden path

Many summer residents think about how to make garden paths from wood, because this is inexpensive and available material always at hand. In addition, you can use not only classic version in the form of installed cuts, but also to install beautiful and functional paths in the country, for example, from such improvised material as Euro pallets.

The material for the cuts can be either a purchased log house or fallen trees from the grove located next to the site. A chainsaw will help you make wooden garden paths at low cost, which you don’t have to buy if you can ask a friend for help.

To arrange the path, follow the following instructions:

We mark the place for the path and dig a trench 10-20 cm deep.
We lay waterproofing taking into account covering not only the bottom, but also the slopes.
For drainage, fill the bottom of the trench with crushed stone.
Pour a 10 cm layer of sand as a cushion under the cuts.
We install the cuts, alternating thick logs with thin branches to fill the space as much as possible.
We fill the gaps between the cuts with sand.

You can install the cuts in such a way that their upper part will rise 3-5 cm above the surface. A path of this type will be much less dirty in slush and rain.

In the video you can often see how great a garden path made of wooden boards looks. But material such as Euro pallets is excellent for our purposes, and the cost of such material only includes its delivery to the site. At the same time, pallets are made from durable wood, which, when treated with antiseptics, can last a long time.

To prepare the boards, they are cut into 50 cm pieces, sanded, treated with a protective agent and painted or varnished. The flooring itself is performed according to the following algorithm:

Logs are made from wooden blocks, which are fastened together with the same bars, using “half-wood” knitting.
Cover the structure with bitumen mastic, which will protect the frame from rotting. The same mastic is used to cover the bottom of the boards.
Lay the boards, leaving a gap of 10-20 mm between them for water drainage.
Additionally, the path is coated with varnish or paint.

When driving nails, try to sink their heads into the wood as deeply as possible. This will allow you to walk along the path barefoot without fear of getting hurt.

Prices for forms and materials

Everything you need for arranging garden paths can be found in the appropriate sections of the Leroy Merlin store. “Garden paths” and other sections of the catalog contain hundreds of items necessary tools and materials. At the same time, one cannot help but note the rather affordable prices.

Thus, the cost of a mold for a garden path in Leroy is 507 rubles, which, you see, is quite inexpensive, given its reusable use. A concrete mixer, of course, will cost you more - a 120 liter unit costs 5,690 rubles, but it will greatly facilitate concrete work.

Concrete dyes

Dyes for concrete start at 603 rubles. for a 700 g jar, while plasticizers can be purchased for a minimal price - 149 rubles. for a container weighing 600 g. The store’s consultants will be able to answer questions about how to make paths in the dacha with your own hands or tell you about the features of using certain materials. A form for a garden path, purchased from Leroy Merlin, will allow you to save quite a significant amount when arranging paths in your garden.

If you have not yet decided how to make a path in your dacha, look at the gallery of photos located on our website. Interesting solutions using in various ways arrangement of garden paths will help you choose the most best option, make the necessary changes to it and create your own unique design. And maybe soon a photo of your particular site will appear in the first lines of search results.

Those who have their own dacha or garden know how important it is to equip them well so that your vacation or stay in a suburban area after a dusty and hectic city is as pleasant as possible. Ennoblement landscape design has become more important than simply growing vegetables in the garden.

Now every owner strives to give his garden or dacha a special personality and style. One of the main details of this style is garden paths, because the entire appearance of your site can depend on their design and appearance.

How can you make paths in your dacha that will make all the neighbors gasp in surprise and delight? Of course, you can invite a designer or hire specialists who will professionally design your site, but this will cost you quite a lot. There is another option - to design and make paths in your dacha with your own hands. Moreover, absolutely any materials can be suitable for this.

What to choose and how to turn your idea into reality?

First, you need to figure out what kind of country paths there are and what they can be made from. You will have a very large choice, because there are a huge number of options for their production and design, moreover, they are all very diverse and original and beautiful in their own way, so if you wish, you can find an idea to suit your taste and your wallet.

Why are paths needed at a dacha or garden plot? Many will answer that their main function is to provide the ability to move around this very area. Indeed, paths or paths should provide comfortable movement, connecting all the main objects or buildings of your dacha. However, in addition to this, ideally they need to perform other tasks:

ensure comfortable walking (especially if there is clay soil or lowland where water accumulates all the time);
divide the site into unique zones or sectors (flower beds, garden, vegetable garden, recreation areas, etc.);
decorate and create certain style, uniting everything around into a single harmonious ensemble.

So, we’ve figured out the purpose of garden alleys, now you need to understand what paths you can make in your dacha with your own hands. The main classification is based on the choice of material that you use to make the paths, and on the method of their construction (there are also differences in size and location - straight, winding, etc.).

The most spectacular and expensive paths, of course, will be made from natural stone. The big and undoubted advantage of this option is the durability of your product. However, even here you can save money by not buying stone specifically, but by using, for example, leftovers from the cladding of buildings. However, you need to know how to handle such material. This also includes paving slabs or paving stones and bricks. If you chose the latter as the material, then find a special paving brick, since ordinary white and red bricks may not be resistant to moisture and temperature changes. With the help of a brick, you can lay out any designs and patterns on your alleys, folding it like a mosaic. Just indicate in advance in the diagram the ornament that you want to get as a result.

Wood is considered the second most popular material after stone. Wooden alleys look no less beautiful and stylish, especially since a DIY garden path made of wood can be made with much less cost and effort. You can use and wooden blocks, and wood cuts, and boards, and lumps - in a word, any derivatives that are easy to get. The main thing is to show a little imagination and try to do something special. However, the tree will require some care, so for durability and beautiful view of your wooden paths, learn how to properly care for them.

You can pave paths in your dacha with your own hands from gravel, pebbles, crushed stone or marble chips, pouring them into a specially prepared base and strengthening them on the sides with a border strip of brick or tiles. The gravel can be multi-colored - then you can make original patterns. The soil in the dug trench will need to be pre-treated before backfilling (herbicides are usually used), and then covered with agrofibre or polyethylene. This way you will protect the alley from the germination of weeds. Finally, you need to compact the gravel (you can use a portable roller or other device).

The easiest way is to pour concrete paths. Moreover, you can lay tiles, stones, or paving stones on top. And now on sale in construction stores can be found plastic molds, with which you can easily produce various concrete elements and create unique and beautiful paths.

In addition to basic materials, you can use any available means to create paths: pieces of old facing tiles, glass bottles, caps, plugs, old tires, etc.

As you can see, you can easily and quickly arrange garden paths with your own hands at low cost. Materials can be combined with each other, the main thing is that they suit the general style of the site and the house, fitting into their ensemble and complementing it.

Be sure to think in advance and draw up a plan diagram of how the alleys will be located on the site, because their network should be built so that they unite all the main zones and buildings. Don’t be afraid to combine different shapes and directions - let you have straight and curved paths, wide and narrow, etc. side by side.

Let's get started: a brief overview of the main methods of making tracks

An important part of creating travel routes around the site will be preparatory stage. First of all, you will need to make the markings correctly. If you are planning a straight path, then a rope stretched on pegs will do. And to mark a winding alley, you can drive long nails along the edges of a regular rake and drag them where you want to see the path.

If the climate in your area is rainy, then you need to take care of the drainage system, and also provide drains along the edges of the paths to prevent stagnation of water. Keep in mind that large trees should not grow near the alleys themselves, because their roots will spoil the integrity and appearance of any roads.

The construction of all paths begins with markings. Then comes the digging of a trench and preparation of the soil for laying out the material. The depth and width of the trench depends on the type and parameters of the selected materials. The next step is to form a sand bedding or cushion. Backfilling is especially important for areas with loose soil, as well as for paths for which you expect a large operational load, for example, for a car area.

To line an alley with brick, stone or tile, fill the dug grooves with gravel or pebbles, compact them, and then make another layer of sand. It is this top layer that will be needed to level the surface well. The depth of the trench for stone is about twenty centimeters (often it will be the same for paving stones or bricks). Crushed stone or gravel should be poured in a layer of ten centimeters, plus ten centimeters of sand. Then lay the material on this pillow, following the direction and shape of the desired path. Tap the bricks or tiles with a rubber mallet to adjust them to the desired level. Fill the void between the stones with sand, and then thoroughly water everything.

You can make tiles of any shape yourself using a plastic frame. To do this, you only need to fill them with concrete, compact the mass in the mold, and then remove it. From these tiles, when they dry, you can lay out an alley, and then fill the spaces between them with multi-colored filler or sow them with herbaceous plants.

If you want to make a path from wood cuts, then you will need to cut a lot of stumps of different shapes (large ones will be used to lay the main part of the alley, and small ones will fill the voids between them). The trench for wooden cuts does not need to be too deep. Fill its bottom with sand and compact it, and then put the stumps there. You can level the lumps using a sledgehammer and using a level as a guide. You can also add gravel, soil or sand between them, and then plant flowers or grass if you want. If nothing should grow on your path, then lay polyethylene at the bottom of the trench, as is the case with a gravel path. Be sure to prepare the cuts - they must be well dried and treated with hot drying oil over the entire surface (you can treat the cuts with a ten percent solution copper sulfate, and the side that will be in contact with the ground - bitumen).

Gravel and boards go very well together. The boards can be large or small, located next to each other or at some distance from each other, you can lay them crosswise or lengthwise, lay them out in a parquet way, paint them - in a word, do whatever your heart desires. Please note that if you raise the boards slightly above ground level, this will help you ensure air circulation underneath them, which means they will last longer. Like saw cuts, boards also need to be treated with antiseptic and protective agents.