home Screw

How to make summer and winter water supply at the dacha. Diagram and water supply system for a country house (two-story) Water supply in the country house from a barrel

Do it yourself plumbing! None of my neighbors in the country have running water. People wash dishes in a basin on the street the old-fashioned way. Everything would be fine, for the sake of romance and exoticism I allow such inconveniences. But in our area it’s not hot and at +5-8°C I don’t understand washing dishes outside, even with warm water and using modern detergents... Below I give a description of my design of a homemade water supply system, I hope to answer questions about how to make and how to make a water supply system yourself.

To ease labor in the late eighties decided to build a simple water supply system with his own hands. I installed a tank on the roof of the extension and made an outlet from the tank using a corrugated hose. I installed a sink in the kitchen at home. I secured the pipe with the tap. I connected a hose to the pipe from above. The drain from the sink was organized through a standard siphon with drainage into an old rubber hose.

Outlet pipe

Let me remind you that the plumbing was done in the late eighties, remember or believe it - nothing was sold in stores. The drain hose is made from a 5 meter high pressure rubber hose (from a fire truck pump) with an internal diameter of 40mm. The hose was led outside to the drainage point, maintaining a slope for independent drainage. My soil is sandy and I need to build an extensive water intake network not required. The wastewater collection well has varied in design over the years. The first options silted up after 7 years (the water begins to drain slowly). The second option still works.

The first version of the receiving well

A small pit was dug with a diameter of ~60cm and a depth of about 70cm. The inside of the ring well is lined with old bricks. The bricks were laid overlap without solution. The drain hose entered the masonry from the side. The masonry was covered on the outside with waterproofing (old polyethylene). From above to the ground level, a ceiling was made from scrap materials and covered with polyethylene. The entire structure was covered with earth to the general surface level. The disadvantage of the first well was its “hermetic” design. Water in sink siphon gurgled, allowing air to pass through as the water in the well is absorbed. The repeated version of the well was equipped with a tube (a piece of an old hose) connecting the well to the surface.

Second version of the receiving well

The second option was built already in this century from half a 200 liter metal barrels, buried with the lid up. The required piece of the barrel was cut out with a grinder. The drain hose is inserted through a hole cut with the same grinder right next to the lid. A pressure equalizing hose is routed through the same hole. By installing half a barrel, the issue of recycling the leaky container was resolved.

Filling the pressure tank with water

Well, now the most interesting part. The tank on the roof is small, about 50 liters. But this volume of water is almost enough for a day. The container must be refilled periodically. At first it was a portable hose connected to a hand pump and then to an electric one. Drawing water takes some time and, naturally, when attention is distracted you forget about water. More than once, Niagara Falls fell from the roof when the tank overflowed, flooding the garden, things that fell under the stream of water and tiring the neighbors with the noise of the water until the end of the series or news. The overflow problem was resolved within one season.

Automation scheme

Automation system housing

It was necessary to build an automatic pump switch when the required level water in the tank. There was no talk about automatic water pumping. The pump purchased by appointment was protected. Its cost then, in terms of wages, today corresponds to the cost of a modern two-chamber refrigerator. The main purpose of the pump is to water the garden. The device was assembled in the field from what was available. Especially for photographing and restoring the circuit, I opened the box, which had been in use for more than 20 years. The design feature is due to an attempt to avoid the presence of electrodes in the water container, which are constantly under voltage and lead to corrosion of the electrodes themselves and the tank in my case. The diagram is shown in the photograph. There are only two controls. Switch B1. Allows you to turn the device on or off. Button Kn1 turns on the pump. The scheme works as follows. Turning on switch B1 gives permission to control the circuit, but does not supply 220V supply voltage.

Scheme

Pressing the Kn1 button will supply power to the step-down transformer Tr1. The alternating voltage of the secondary winding of the transformer is supplied to bridge rectifier D1. The ripples are smoothed out by electrolytic capacitor C1. A constant voltage of 24V is supplied to relay K1 through a normally closed contact. The relay is activated and, through its contacts K1.1 and K1.2, supplies power to the pump, while simultaneously picking up the Kn1 button with contact K1.1. The level sensor switch is made on transistor V1. Relay K2 is included in the transistor emitter circuit. The level sensor is made in the form of a metal duralumin plate suspended in the tank at the required height, the second electrode is a metal tank. When the water level of the sensor is reached, a 24V voltage through the water resistance and resistance R1 opens transistor V1. Relay K2 is activated and breaks the normally closed contact K2.1 in the power circuit of relay K1. Relay K1, in turn, turns off the power to the pump. Contact K1.1 removes the pickup of button Kn1 and the device is completely de-energized. When the water runs out or to replenish the tank, just press the Kn1 button again. This version of the circuit allows you to control the pump using switch B1 and button Kn1 when operating in the “irrigation” mode, without disconnecting from the automation circuit. To allow the pump to operate when the tank is full, the filling pipe is placed slightly below the sensor level (0.5-1cm). After turning off the pump, the water flows in reverse through the vibration pump valve into the well until air enters the filling pipe. Reducing the water level allows you to turn on the pump for other purposes. As relay K2, a relay of type RES9 passport 200 is used, relay K2 is some kind of imported one with powerful contacts, something like domestic relays of the RN brand. Anyone who wants to replicate the device, but lacks experience, please contact us, we will develop a version on this page based on a modern element base.

Design

The device was assembled in a suitable housing from available parts. The circuit components are attached to the box cover using screws and glue, and the mounting connections are made mounted way. Initially, voltage was supplied only to the socket on the cover of the device, where the pump was connected. Subsequently, the controlled socket was placed directly into the well enclosure.

Glued radio components

Operating experience

The next year after the installation of the water supply system, a corrugated hose for filling water was installed permanently. Low climate resistance reduced the service life of the hose to 3-4 years, after which it was replaced with a new one. The issue of durability was resolved by using a reinforced multilayer hose. Naturally, the water is drained from the system in the winter; it is useful to blow out the inlet hose to remove residual water. In the spring, the absence of ice plugs in the filling line will allow you to quickly start up the water supply system. The water in the sink siphon freezes in winter, but does not lead to any damage. The design of the water supply system is simple, primitive, but at the same time functional and, as experience has shown, durable. In terms of price, a similar plumbing solution is still competes with the purchase and installation of a pumping station when building a minimal water supply system and has a slight advantage; in the absence of electricity, the water supply system continues to operate until the water in the tank runs out. Several such machines were made to order in the 90s. There were no complaints. Some of them are still working.

There are two ways to solve problems with a water storage tank for a shower: buy ready-made products in a store or make them yourself. The second option is much preferable for several reasons:

It is possible to choose the volume of the container to suit your own needs. Depending on the design of the shower and the number of family members, you can install a container with different volumes;
If desired, additional automation systems can be installed. If you have minimal experience in performing plumbing work without major problems, you can automatically fill the tank, draw water only from the upper warmest layer, electrical heating, etc.;
low cost. All structural elements can be used, there is no need to buy anything. If you have to go to the store, then only for cheap additional elements;
the pleasure of doing your own work. This is an important factor, in many cases outweighs all others.

The article will provide detailed step-by-step instructions for making several options for shower tanks; each has both strengths and weaknesses.

The shower tank can be metal made of galvanized sheet steel, stainless steel or carbon (black) iron and plastic. In order to consciously choose the best options, you should familiarize yourself with the real comparative table of manufacturing materials.

Material of manufacture	Advantages	Flaws
	Almost unlimited service life. But this advantage is unlikely to be critical for shower buildings in suburban areas.	Technological complexity of production. Professional tools and the ability to weld with stainless steel are required. Another very unpleasant drawback is the high price.
	Service life up to fifty years. The tank is lightweight and can be installed even on fragile supporting structures.	Complexity of manufacture, you need to have special tools and skills for soldering. In terms of cost, they occupy an average position.
	For most cases, the best option both in terms of price and performance.	They require periodic cleaning of the inner surface; the paint layer on the outer surfaces should be restored.
	They are cheap and there are no problems finding containers.	They are afraid of negative temperatures and harsh ultraviolet radiation.
	The service life is several decades.	Not all users are satisfied with the price.

Experienced practitioners advise making a shower tank from used plastic or metal containers. Such containers are easy to find, and in most cases you won’t have to pay anything.

For one washable one, up to 40 liters is enough; depending on the number of family members, you can calculate the optimal sizes. For information, it is worth saying that when manufacturing shower tanks, industrial companies base it on a calculation of approximately 20 liters per person; 40 liters allows you not only to take a shower, but also to fully wash yourself without the need to save water.

Plastic barrels

A very common option for making a tank for a shower stall, it has good physical strength. It is allowed to use both new and used ones. The volume can be different, from 50 to 1000 liters. There is no need to use large containers for showering; it is enough to have a volume in the range of 50–200 liters.

There are two general requirements for all plastic containers:

Manufacturing material: UV-resistant plastic. It is quite difficult to find such containers, and they are not cheap;
must have a dark color, preferably black. Plastic must be painted with mineral paints when preparing polyethylene for pressing. Most plastic barrels are blue or white. Why is it recommended to have containers made from colored plastic? Because paints on the surface of plastic will not last long; within one summer they will fall off. The reason is not only the low adhesion coefficient, but also the high temperature expansion values. And all dyes react negatively to changes in the linear dimensions of the painted surface.

Step-by-step instructions for making a plastic tank

If you have an old plastic barrel, you need to wash it thoroughly. The container can be considered clean only when various odors have completely disappeared. For installation in a vertical position, a frame and a base must be made, the stop is located over the entire bottom area. To reduce wind loads, it is better to place the barrel on its side, but then problems arise with sealing the lid.

How to seal the lid

Step 1. Thoroughly wash the joints between the lid and the barrel, remove oily stains, dust and dirt.

Step 2. Try on the lid, check whether it fits tightly around the entire circumference. If necessary, level the cover. To do this, heat the deformed areas with a hair dryer, place the lid in its place on the barrel and press firmly. The lid is held in this position until it cools completely. Wear gloves and follow safety precautions.

Step 3. Degrease the surfaces again and carefully lubricate them with special glue. If you have a machine for welding plastics, great; such a seam has a strength of at least 90% of the strength of the base material. If you don’t have a device, use glue.

Step 4. Wait until the adhesive is completely dry. The time depends on the brand of glue and drying conditions.

Step 5. Reapply glue where the lid meets the barrel and let it dry again. Don't rush, don't make mistakes.

Step 6. To increase the strength of the connection, lubricate the joint again and wrap it tightly with clean plastic wrap. Tighten the film on top with soft wire.

Instead of wire, it is permissible to use a clamp

If you have little experience in such work, then do not rush to install the barrel on the shower stall; first check it for strength and tightness. Everything is fine - cut a small hole in the upper part, connect the fittings and the shower head. If leaks are discovered and cannot be eliminated, place the barrel in a vertical position.

How to make inserts into plastic barrels

Not as simple a question as it might seem. The fact is that it is near the insert that points of increased tension in the material are formed; over time, microcracks appear, which increase until complete destruction. As a result, the barrel has to be completely replaced; repairing such leaks is very difficult. And after repairs, no one can guarantee that problems will not appear again in the same place or near it in a few weeks.

For high-quality insertion you will need a drill with a set of drills of appropriate diameters, rubber gaskets, bolts and metal plates. The insert is made not only for the shower head, but also for supplying water and draining excess.

Practical advice. Use silicone hose for all connections. It is not afraid of frost, is resistant to UV rays and, which is very important for plastic barrels, is soft and does not create additional loads on the connection unit.

Step 1. Buy tank inserts. They consist of washers, rubber seals, fittings and nuts.

The number of taps depends on the number of pipelines connected to the barrel, and the diameter is selected taking into account the size of the nominal diameter of the hose. Additionally, you will need a faucet coupling, a faucet, a shower head, and a float from an old cistern. If you plan to install additional automation fittings, then at the same time buy elements for fixing it to the plastic barrel. It is advisable to use quick releases to connect/disconnect the hose; they make the process of caring for the country shower tank much easier.

Step 2. Prepare two metal plates for each insert, approximately 5x10 cm in size, and at least one millimeter thick. It is due to them that the area will significantly expand, taking static loads from the connected water supply fittings and dynamic forces that arise when turning on/off the shower head or water supply shut-off valves. Be sure to remove any sharp corners on all sides of the plates with a cylindrical grinder.

Step 3. In the center of the plate, drill a hole for the insert; two holes will be needed for two plates; sand off the sharp corners and burrs after the drill.

Step 4. Drill a hole in the barrel; the location must meet the requirements for the placement of the insert and its specific purpose. It is quite difficult to drill a hole in a round plastic barrel; the drill constantly “runs away”, especially with a large diameter.

Practical advice. Drilling holes will become much easier if you use simple recommendations.

Hold a small nail in the pliers and heat it with a lighter until a red glow appears.
Without giving the metal time to cool, very quickly, in a pre-marked place, melt a small hole in a plastic barrel with a hot nail, possibly a blind hole.
Take a drill with a diameter of approximately 2 mm and drill a through hole. The mark you make will hold the drill in the desired position. This will be the center, then you can continue working with a large diameter drill.

Step 5. Use sandpaper to remove all burrs around the perimeter of the hole; they should not interfere with the hermetically installed metal strips.

Step 6. Bend the metal plates along the radius of the barrel. Use any available devices for this. There is nothing to worry about if you fail to bend the plate perfectly, but it is advisable to strive for such a result. The more accurately the radii coincide, the larger the contact area, the less the load per unit area, the more efficient the device.

Step 6. To fully guarantee the elimination of leaks, lubricate the surface of the plates with any glue or sealant; you can do the same operations with inserts.

Step 7 Place all the elements in place; the metal plates should be on both sides of the container. You will need an assistant to fix the nut; it is difficult to do this alone. But it all depends on the size of the container. Remember that standard mortise nuts have left-hand threads; screw them counterclockwise.

Constantly monitor the position of the plates, do not allow them to rotate and change the original correct position.

Using the same algorithm, the holes for all inserts are reinforced. Don’t be lazy to make reinforcements; it greatly increases the service life of the country shower tank. Next, a faucet, hose, quick connector, or other equipment for the tank is fixed to the thread.

Video - Installing a tap on a plastic barrel

Metal shower tank

We will not consider rather “exotic”, in our opinion, options for manufacturing stainless steel tanks. Let's focus on the two most successful ones - from a finished barrel or welded from rolled sheet steel of ordinary quality.

1. Metal tank from a finished barrel

First, we should talk about the types of barrels, their advantages and disadvantages.

Type of barrel	Advantages	Flaws
	Low price and availability. Currently, such containers are used to store most liquid and bulk products; they can always be bought in a store or found used. They are light in weight and easily mounted on simplified frames.	Difficulties arise with attaching tie-ins and plumbing fittings; the service life rarely exceeds ten years.
	The mesh thickness is up to 1 mm, which allows you to securely fix additional elements of the tank. Service life fifty years or more.	Currently, it is difficult to find thick-walled barrels; their cost is much higher than that of thin-walled ones. Slightly more weight, volume not less than 200 liters. Such operational parameters may limit the scope of possible use.

Making a tank from a metal barrel

A hole is made in the bottom of the barrel for the shower head. If the barrel is thin-walled, it is recommended to install metal plates to strengthen the joint. How this is done is described above using the example of a plastic barrel. To supply water, a hole should be made in the upper part of the container. When making the frame for the tank, be sure to take into account the weight of the filled container; the fixation must be reliable and safe.

2. Making a tank from sheet steel

The optimal option for many cases, has a number of advantages.

Possibility of manufacturing a tank of any capacity. This allows the needs of users to be taken into account to the maximum extent possible.
The shower tank can also serve as its roof. To do this, the dimensions in length and width must correspond to the parameters of the shower; the frame of the building simultaneously serves as a frame for the tank. In the step-by-step manufacturing instructions we will consider just this option.
All systems for automating filling and additional artificial heating of water can be installed on the tank.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal tank

For manufacturing, you need to prepare sheet iron approximately 1 mm thick; the dimensions of the sheets depend on the length and width of the shower stall. For most cases, 1.2 mx1.2 m is sufficient.

Step 1. Draw a sketch of the blanks and calculate the volume of the tank. For example, we will take a volume of 100 liters. With a length of 1.2 m and a width of 1.2 m, the height should be: H = 100,000 cm3 (100 liters): (120 cm × 120 cm) = 6.9 cm. Round up to 7 cm. For the tank you need to prepare two plates of the size 120 cm×120 cm for top and bottom. And four plates measuring 120 cm x 7 cm for the sidewalls.

Step 2. Transfer the sketches of the blanks onto the metal. Clean its surface from rust and dirt, accurately draw the outline of the workpiece. The dimensions need to be transferred only for one sidewall and top; these elements will later be used as templates for the rest.

Step 3. Use a cylindrical grinder with a metal cutting disc to cut the pieces. Check that the dimensions are exactly the same.

Important. When working with an angle grinder, follow safety rules. In terms of injury risk, this tool ranks first. The disk must rotate to the operator, this is extremely important. Beginners try to change the direction of rotation; they don’t like the fact that sparks fly towards the worker. This is very dangerous, in this position the angle grinder can be torn out, the injuries from it are complex and severe.

Step 4. Align the cut areas, try to achieve the most even line possible. Gaps of no more than two millimeters are allowed. Try to pre-fold all the elements and check their quality.

Step 5. Start welding individual elements. Adjust the welding machine amperage and electrode diameter. The metal should not burn out; this condition significantly reduces the strength of the seam. In addition, a strong current burns through thin sheets, making it difficult and time-consuming to repair holes. Keep in mind that the weld seam “pulls” as it cools, and the value of the angles changes. To avoid mistakes, first grab two elements in several places and let them cool. After this, check the angles with a square and, if any deviations are detected, correct them. Only after such preparation can a continuous suture be applied.

Step 6. Beat off the flux along the entire length of the seam and check its integrity. If there are gaps, re-suture. If there is not enough experience in welding work, then professionals recommend applying seams on the inside and outside of the shower tank at the bottom. The cover is welded only on the outside.

Step 7 Mark the connection points for the water inlet and shower head. Taking into account the diameters, drill holes and use a grinder to clean off the burrs. We do not recommend that you weld in threaded fittings; it is much easier to purchase special fittings in stores. They have a set of washers and rubber gaskets, are quickly installed in place, and do not require special knowledge. Welding adapters is quite difficult; beginners will definitely experience leaks.

Step 8 Re-clean all welds from flux, pour water into the tank and check the container for leaks. There are no leaks - pour out the water, clean the surfaces and paint the external walls. The paint, of course, should be black for exterior work as well.

The finished shower tank can be mounted above the shower stall. If you have a desire to make it from stainless steel, then the technology is almost no different. With the exception of changing welding modes and electrode brands.

You can find options for making a shower tank from galvanized sheet steel. We do not consider this option to be successful for several reasons:

very thin walls require additional special measures to strengthen them;
zinc has low adhesion to most coatings; the paint will peel off quickly. And using special expensive paints is not economically feasible;
To make the tank, the elements used at the joints are bent and then sealed. This is very long, you need to have or specially make bending devices;
Without solid experience in soldering galvanized sheet iron, you should not hope for a positive result of your work.

How can you improve tanks for a country shower?

Each owner of a summer cottage, taking into account his needs and capabilities, can independently improve the tank, install simple mechanisms that will not only increase the comfort of water procedures, but also reduce the time spent on its maintenance and preparation. We will not touch on complex automation; we will consider only the most “budget” options. Although they are low-cost, they are in no way inferior to expensive industrially manufactured analogues in terms of efficiency, safety and durability of use.

Water temperature

For those who already use the simplest shower at their summer cottage, it is no secret that the temperature of the water changes during washing. Sometimes temperature changes can cause significant discomfort. It is impossible to completely eliminate this phenomenon, but there are several ways to minimize the difference and increase the temperature of the water in the tank? For now, we will not consider factors that depend on the location and color of the surface; we will focus on purely technical solutions.

Make a water intake from the top of the tank. The simplest method, but very effective. To do this, you need to attach a flexible hose Ø 15–20 mm to the inlet of the shower head. The main thing is not size, but flexibility; the hose can be made of various materials, wall thickness does not matter. In the shower, water moves by gravity, there is no increased pressure; on the contrary, it is somewhat lower than in the container due to physical phenomena that occur during the movement of the liquid. The length of the connected hose should be approximately 20–25 cm longer than the maximum height of the barrel. Specific values are determined taking into account the characteristics of the hose. The main requirement is that it should not bend completely during operation and not disturb the speed of water flow. The upper end of the hose is fixed to any float (it is better to take a piece of foam) from below. As the barrel fills or empties, the float will move up/down, and the intake end of the hose always takes water from the warmest top layer.
Install a simple electric heater. Nowadays there are a huge number of devices on sale, differing in power, price and method of fixation. Choose the most optimal one for yourself, taking into account the maximum number of different factors. There is no need to focus on power. In addition to additional heating of water, the heater will perform one more task - constantly stirring it in the tank. Mount it at the very bottom, warm water will rise up and cold water will sink down. Due to continuous stirring, the temperature of the water throughout the volume will become the same. If desired, you can additionally install a temperature or time sensor, but this is quite complex work. And the presence of conductive elements in the water tank has a negative impact on the safety of using the shower.

Filling the tank

There are two most commonly used methods for filling the tank: manually with a bucket or using a plumbing valve. Both methods are often used and have a right to life, but we recommend making the third option, which in our opinion is very successful. In addition, almost no additional costs will be required, and all work will take no more than an hour.

Step 1. Prepare the details. You will need a hose and a regular float mechanism from the toilet cistern. As a rule, they very rarely fail; such elements can be found and used for the tank when replacing plumbing equipment. If you don’t have the old ones, buy them in a specialized store; the price of the devices is quite affordable for all consumers.

Step 2. Drill a hole in the container, do not forget to install additional plates to strengthen the insertion point.

Step 3. Install the float, use sealants to prevent leaks.

Important. If for all the cases described above, small leaks are considered an unpleasant phenomenon, but not critical, then the connections with the float must be sealed. Otherwise, a large amount of leaked water can cause very unpleasant consequences.

Step 4. Adjust the position of the float so that the barrel is always filled to the required volume. If you wish, you can make a safety drain hole, insert a tube into it and lead it to a safe place. The tube will make it possible to notice a malfunction of the float in time and minimize the consequences of the “flood”. But you don’t have to do this, a shower in a dacha is not the right room to take special care of leaks, the main thing is that not all the water goes out. Of course, during a long absence, you must remember to completely turn off the water supply.

Thermally insulated outdoor shower with heating, sensors and pump

Country showers

The shower tank option should always be thought through before construction begins, and not vice versa. If your shower is temporary, then you shouldn’t waste a lot of effort and money on making a tank. You can find options for using fuel tanks from cars and trucks, large cans, milk cans, etc. for these purposes. Professionals recommend paying attention to the efficiency and, of course, the designer look of the shower. The tank should not be conspicuous, but should perform its tasks “invisibly”.

And one last thing. In everything you need to maintain the optimal ratio of cost and quality. You have a stationary shower that you plan to use on cool autumn days - think not only about electrically heating the water in the tank, but also about thermal insulation. It should be removable and installed only in cases where the sun's rays are no longer enough to heat the water to the desired temperature. It is best to use foam boards; they are quickly installed and removed and can be used for several seasons. The price suits all consumers.

Video - DIY shower tank

The requirements for water supply at the dacha are not lower than in city apartments, but higher: it is necessary to ensure supply not only to taps and household appliances, but also for irrigation. Therefore, the pump performance must be high, and the flow rate of the well or well must be good and stable. We also have to solve one more problem: in rural areas, electricity is often cut off, so it is advisable to have a supply of water or a backup method of “extracting” it. For well owners, everything is simple: for urgent needs you can get it in a bucket, but you simply can’t get it from a well. We have to come up with backup schemes.

Organization of water supply at the dacha

It is possible to organize a water supply at the dacha only using a pump, but it can be supplied in two ways: from a storage tank or from a hydraulic accumulator.

When using a scheme with a storage tank, you have a supply of water equal to the volume of the tank, but the pressure in the system is low. It is created by a difference in heights: the tank is installed at a height - in the attic of a summer house or the roof of an outbuilding. The main condition is that its bottom must be located above any water intake point. Then there will be water in the taps.

The second method, with a hydraulic accumulator, is more convenient in that pressure is created and automatically maintained in the system. If the hydraulic accumulator is supplemented with a pump and automation (pressure switch), the entire assembly is called. The trick here lies in the hydraulic accumulator. This is a cylindrical container divided into two parts by an elastic membrane. Gas is pumped into one part under low pressure, and water is supplied to the second by a pump. As it enters, the water compresses the gas more and more, which is why pressure is created in the system (about 2 Atm).

When the tap opens (household appliances turn on or watering starts), water is supplied from the accumulator. The pressure in it gradually decreases. Its value is controlled by special relays. As soon as the lower threshold is reached, the pump turns on, restoring its set value. The highest threshold is monitored by a second sensor, which turns off the pump.

How to assemble a water pipe

When assembling a water supply system at your dacha with your own hands, you need to decide which parts of the site you need wiring to. It goes without saying that water should be supplied to the house. But in addition to installing water supply throughout the house, for irrigation, you need to install pipes in key places on the site and install taps on them. If necessary, connect a hose to them and, moving it from place to place or installing a sprinkler, water the nearby beds.

Autonomous water supply in the country

Since in rural areas there are often power outages, and any pump can only work if there is electricity, it would be a good idea to have a reserve supply of water in case of a power outage. This may be a container installed in the attic or in a separate area. Water can be pumped into it using a submersible pump from a well, well, or river. And the pumping station will “pull” water from this tank.

Plumbing at the dacha from a tank is convenient because it can also collect rainwater, but you need good water: first coarse cleaning, then several pieces of fine cleaning. And be sure to also install a filter and a check valve at the inlet of the suction pipeline from the pumping station. The filter is for insurance - the equipment is demanding on water quality, and the valve is so that when the pump is turned off, the water is not dumped back.

The presence of a tank in the water supply system of a dacha is also good for plants: in the summer, if it is installed outside, the water will heat up. It is known that plants watered with warm water grow more actively and bear fruit better.

If desired, you can organize drip irrigation - assemble a pipeline from pipes, insert tees in the right places, to which you connect hoses for drip irrigation.

A drip irrigation system can be organized even when you are making water supply at your dacha with your own hands

Here's what it looks like schematically. Raise the tank to a height of at least 1 meter. You pump water into it from a well, a well, or a river. Its level is controlled by a float mechanism (like those found in waste tanks). From the bottom of the tank there is distribution to the beds. First there is a solid water pipe, and a drip pipe with holes comes off from the tee.

Simple country water supply. Description of installing a cheap pumping station under a rain barrel.

The entire design and installation of the barrel is similar to that described in the article. In addition to the described design, we install a pumping station in a stand (the simplest, cheapest and smallest), insulate it and cover it with a decorative picket fence.

Tools:

drill hot glue gun knife

Materials:

plastic food barrel 200 l squeegee G1 x 150 mm, nuts, washers and gaskets for it 1-inch American type quick-release coupling valve with spout mesh plastic cartridge AquaKit Slim Line 10" NT (50 microns) silicone sealant sewer pipes diameter 40mm and transitions for them metal corners one concrete tile 500x500mm pumping station insulating plate 20 mm (expanded polystyrene)

Work order:

Installing a squeegee in the bottom of a rain barrel.
I drilled a hole in the bottom of the barrel for an inch squeegee (G1), and placed an “American” on it for convenient docking with the pumping station.
Separately, I would like to dwell on the description of drilling a hole for the drive. I couldn't find the required drill bit.
Marked a circle 4mm smaller in diameter than the external thread of the drive. Next, using a drill with a diameter of 2 mm in increments of approximately 3 mm, I drilled a series of holes along this circle, cut the partitions with a knife and used it to level the hole.
You need to do it very carefully, you will ruin the barrel “a couple of empty ones”, a poorly made hole will complicate the sealing of the drive.
It is very important to prevent constant leakage directly into the pumping station. The squeegee needs to be released into the barrel by 40-60mm, this will allow the debris to settle at the bottom of the barrel and not be collected by the pump. In addition, a plastic main filter from small debris was perfectly placed on the squeegee inside the barrel.
Making an overflow.
To ensure that the barrel never overfilled, I drilled a hole on top for a sewer plastic pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and glued an adapter with a coupling into the hole. Now, when the barrel is filled, excess water itself drains into the storm drain.
Making a stand for a rain barrel.
I welded a stand for a barrel from the corners. For stability, the stand was made according to the size of a concrete tile 500x500.
Inside the stand I made a frame for the pumping station. On top of the stand I made grips for the barrel so that there was no risk of shifting and breaking the seal of the drive.
1. Installation of a pumping station.
2. We install the barrel on an unfilled pump; we do not install a main filter. A check valve is built into the pump; without sufficient pressure from outside, it will not open. Therefore, we fill a couple of buckets of water, open the tap at the outlet of the pump and on top of the barrel, with a long stick about 10 mm in diameter and a meter long, squeeze the valve through the squeegee, wait until water comes out of the tap. We release the valve, turn off the water, and put on the main filter.
For the winter, I remove the barrel and put an adapter to the storm sewer on the drain pipe. I drain the water from the pumping station and leave the station in a stand outside.

In the spring, the bearing of the centrifugal pump turns sour. For the first start, you need to rotate the motor shaft by hand. I do it through the impeller of the engine cooling fan, removing the protective casing from the back of the engine. It works fine all summer, but the procedure has to be repeated this third spring.
It is not enough to supply water to the house; after use it needs to be disposed of somewhere. It’s hard to carry it out with buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: the water comes into the house on its own, and then you have to carry it out on your own two feet. You need at least basic sewerage for your home or cottage. The option of simply removing the pipe from the house and draining the water onto the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or hole is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably 110mm PVC), a tee, an outlet, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium-fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe; the water flowing through it will warm it up perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we place a tee with a small piece of pipe extending above the surface of the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and allow air to exit the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We insert the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with crushed stone to the full height of the barrel. It is advisable to put some kind of non-rotting material at the bottom of the barrel (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the hole with soil, compacting it thoroughly. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally introducing the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground not far from a buried barrel, you can put a plastic mushroom, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer system for the home; it cannot cope with fecal waste, it cannot be cleaned or maintained in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or bathhouse. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: depth of soil freezing + height of the barrel + height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m = 2.3 m). But digging so deep is difficult and not necessary. The effluent also warms the barrel.

If the soil at the site where the sewage system is installed is clayey, and the water leaves the barrel slowly, then the sewage system for your home can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer pipe, or better yet, a drainage pipe. This pipe may discharge water into a drainage ditch at the border of the site, or it may lead nowhere, ending in a dead end. The purpose of this pipe is to drain excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone bed and is also covered with crushed stone and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be damaged by a number of holes in the lower part to improve water flow, making it like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is placed in a drainage ditch.

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To be honest, I’m a little surprised that someone’s sewer system can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there...

Reviews (38) on “The simplest drainage system for a summer residence.”

Thank you for the useful article and adequate answers. I’ll start doing it tomorrow. I hope the pipe in our Transbaikalia will not freeze. Of course, I agree with you that a significant inclination needs to be done. By the way, I don’t understand whether the pipe will be enough for 50 or is it necessary for 100?

Depends on the distance and characteristics of the problem being solved. It is better to make 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances of up to 5 (five) meters, you can make 50 (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as it is more durable and frost-resistant. This is, after all, an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. What can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up, get greasy, get soapy? Or will it clog up tightly?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or will it be gray (for internal wiring), since it will only be used in the summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) - LDPE - high-density polyethylene. What do you say?
3. My plot has a slope. Along the fence just downhill. I realized that it was better to dig it in.
4. Soil - loam. Where is rainwater usually directed from the roof? To another hole?

Answers, Vladimir.
1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loams, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general... If it doesn’t break.
This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, if the basic installation rules are followed.
2. It definitely won’t work for “internal wiring.” We need PVC for external sewerage. For internal sewerage, PP is usually used. You won’t dig it up for the winter...
A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a LDPE pipe (I haven’t heard anything about LDPE pipes until now, maybe I don’t have enough experience). In principle, you can do it if you find it, but problems may arise with connecting pipes to bends (turns) and exiting the house. If you are not a “specialist”, then it is better not to experiment.
4. Rainwater is usually directed into the drainage system around the house, which discharges it into a drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - “drainage”, corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
In loamy soil, it is necessary to make at least a small irrigation field for house drains (a small drainage system is just for this purpose). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on the go,” then the usual crushed stone sprinkling around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

Of course, you can introduce rainwater into this sewer system, but... Then there will be a high probability of damage to pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings,” because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe with ice) of these waters. That's why drainage pipes are made perforated, i.e. “leaky” so that the water can drain away on its own. And if you install drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt and get dirty”) and will not work. This is not to mention the possible unpleasant odors along the entire 20 meters of the pipe. So it is better to have separate sewerage and separate rainwater drainage.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60 cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I'll just poke holes in the side of the frame and then proceed with external wiring. Accordingly, I don’t want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go on the ground.
How to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 along the external wall of the house? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

I didn’t quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house you use fifty dollars for the interior, i.e. PP pipe. You let it out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “seal” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then move on to the 110th PVC, and you are driving it. From the exit of the log house to the 110th PVC you can use the same fifty dollars, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say, without imagining the possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And the 110th went.
In principle, it is permissible to install a fifty-kopeck piece on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is advisable that it is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and it needs to be fastened well and carefully, leaving gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty dollars of PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you'll have to look for it.
And general advice, just in case you are a fireman, avoid right angles. If necessary, make them prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, with inserts between them. Right angles get clogged well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you understood everything correctly. It’s just that not a single salesperson in stores (I visited about five) has come across PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of pipe 110, I need to walk about five fifty meters along the wall (from below there is an entrance to the garage). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were previously laid in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing on the drain tanks suspended overhead

No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely low-density polyethylene, the dye was just different. Look in specialized stores, at construction bases, where they sell professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes, without sockets. I'll tell you how to connect them, it's not difficult. There are tips for everything on the Internet. Look in the store at the address: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, “All Instruments” store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. As a last resort, you can install internal 50 mm PP pipes, you just need to watch them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I'll definitely check their website.
Just a passing question: will I finally find fifty dollars of PVC pipe. But all sorts of turns and other things also need PVC? This is probably completely unrealistic. I'll look on the Internet and on their website.
Thank you again for your attention.

Hello again, Vladimir.
I ask your forgiveness. Having “scoured” the Internet in search of fifty dollars worth of PVC, I actually discovered that these pipes are only available in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, buy fifty dollars of PP, just look not for the standard cheap 1.8 mm PP, but for 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, fifty rubles of PP are installed in non-critical sections of the sewer system, without thinking about the consequences. You will just have to keep an eye on this area, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the dacha season.
The PVC I found in Ufa is unlikely to be suitable; they are for protecting electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer(!) is a mystery to me. So make fifty dollars of PP from the house to the fence. This is not possible, but if you really need it, then...

Thank you for this article for the advice. I just had a situation where I bought myself a multistage pump. A plumber arrived and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork and there was no problem. When I was tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. But if I had a water drain, this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.