How to make a homemade crane with your own hands (video). Do-it-yourself construction hoist: how to lift a load onto the roof Do-it-yourself crane drawings

A homemade crane will make it easier to install foundations, walls, ceilings and other structural elements.
Using such a jib crane, you can carry a load over a distance of up to 3 m, lift it to a height of up to 2 m and lower it to a depth of 2.5 m. The mechanism should be designed to install structures weighing up to 300 kg.

Rice. 1. Diagram of a crane that you can make yourself:

1 - block, 2 - crane boom, 3 - crane trolley, 4 - telescopic stand, 5 - paired angles, 6 - boom base blocks, 7- I-beam, 8 - struts, 9 - crane trolley movement winch, 10 - load frame, 11 - lifting mechanism winch, 12 - electric winch drive, 13 - stand corner, 14,15 - M 16 bolts, 16 - lifting hook assembled with a block .

The crane consists of a horizontal boom beam (the crane trolley moves along it) and vertical support posts made of steel pipes, to which horizontal beams are attached. The crane is collapsible, which allows you to move it from place to place.
Construction of crane stands.
They are made of pipes with a diameter of 140 mm. Their height can be increased up to 3 m using telescopic incoming pipes. To prevent the posts from sinking into the ground, corners are welded to the base. A horizontal beam is welded to the top of the supports - two corners x 65 x 10 mm connected together. A horizontal guide is attached to it from below with four bolts - an I-beam No. 20, having dimensions of 200 x 100 x 5.2 mm, 3000 mm long, along which the crane trolley moves.

The second pair of guide supports consists of two vertical pipes connected at the top and bottom. For greater stability, two inclined supports are welded to them, which in turn connect the racks with a rectangular frame. The latter prevents the crane from tipping over, as it serves as a base for laying sandbags or concrete blocks.

An important feature of a jib crane is its control. Those who will build and operate it need to know: the crane has a lifting and moving device. If necessary, any part can be lowered below the zero mark (into a pit or trench). The entire system of cables and pulleys of the lifting device is driven by an electric motor. The trolley is moved by a hand winch using a cable. One end of it is fixed to the trolley, then the cable goes through the block to the drum, makes five turns and, again passed through the blocks at the base and at the end of the boom, is fixed to the crane trolley.

The hook is lifted by a cable, fixed at one end to the winch and passing successively through the blocks of the base, boom and crane trolley; then the cable goes down, forms a loop on which a block with a hook is suspended, and is secured to the end of the boom through the block of the crane trolley.

Rice. 2. Diagram of the mechanism for lifting and moving the load:

1 - boom end block, 2 - cable fastening pin on the crane trolley, 3 - boom base blocks of the crane trolley moving mechanism, 4 - cable moving the crane trolley, 5 - drum, 6 - hoisting mechanism winch, 7 - hoisting mechanism boom base block , 8 - blocks of the maroon trolley, 9 - block of the hook, 10 - assembly for securing the lifting cable.

The lifting device can also be driven by a conventional manual winch, which will provide the crane with complete autonomy.

Before starting work, you should carefully check the strength of the nodes and supports. Standing under the boom is not allowed - this is the basic safety rule at any construction site.

We hope that there will be farmers and gardeners who will build a crane to make their work easier. Maybe not like that. But similar. The main thing is that he helps in the work.

On the roof or upper floors, and without special devices this is very difficult. We will describe the process of assembling a simple and reliable construction hoist with your own hands, which can lift up to 300 kg alone.

The device, assembled according to the above diagram, is absolutely mobile and can be brought to a construction site without any problems, even by a passenger car with a roof rack.

For assembly you will need:

• laminated timber 60x40 mm - 10 m;
• timber 40x40 - 9 m;
• board 25x80 - 16 m;
• rigging block with bearing - 2 pcs.;
• roller on a bearing with an axle - 4 pcs.;
• nylon cable - 12 m;
• plywood 15 mm - less than 1 m 2.

Assembling the guides

The lift is a trolley sliding on rollers between two T-rails. To make them you will need wood good quality humidity not more than 12%: timber 60x40 and board 25x80. Any curvature is undesirable; the tree should not have any defects.

The beam in the guide plays the role of a spacer, setting the distance between the shelves of the brand. It should be 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the rollers; if necessary, plan the beam along the narrow end and bring it to the desired thickness.

To assemble the guide, you need to place a beam between the boards and align them along one edge. To ensure that the structure is completely monolithic, it is recommended to coat the contacting edges with PVA glue before assembly.

Fold the parts, align them under the square and secure with clamps. Then fasten the boards and beams with white anodized self-tapping screws 55 mm long, screw them in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 30-35 cm in each row. Both boards need to be fastened with self-tapping screws, so the guides will be less susceptible to warping.

If you want to make the guides longer than the available lumber, lay the beams and boards with an overlap of half the length. If spliced ​​correctly, the structure will be extremely strong; all that remains is to remove internal joints boards to zero for smooth movement of the rollers.

After assembling both guides, cover them with two layers of drying oil. Check the width of the gap under the rollers, if necessary, adjust with emery cloth. At a distance of 30 mm from the end in the center of the bar, make a through hole with a diameter of 14 mm in the tee. Use it to bolt the guides to the crossbars; place wide washers under the nut and bolt head. To avoid displacement of the diagonals, make a connection with a half-tree hem.

Trolley design

Start by assembling the frame: insert three 75 cm long crossbars between 130 cm pieces of 40x40 mm timber. Install the middle crossbar 40-45 cm from the bottom edge. Fasten the joints with self-tapping screws, or better yet, assemble the frame using tenon joints.

Attach two 80 cm pieces of timber perpendicular to the frame to the bottom beam, insert a 75 cm long crossbar between their ends and fasten the structure. To strengthen the pallet, make two inclined gussets 60 cm long from timber or boards, cut the edges at an angle of 45°. Attach the gusset to the pallet at a distance of 40 cm from the corner.

Cut a sheet of plywood measuring 83x84 cm and drill holes 20 mm from each edge in 7 cm increments. Through the holes made, screw the bottom of the pallet to the frame with self-tapping screws 45 mm long.

If you plan to increase the load capacity of your cart, the junction of the pallet frame and gussets must be reinforced with overlay plates and angles, and the plywood on the bottom with metal brackets. Attach padlock loops with a tail length of at least 70 mm to the upper corners of the frame. Insert an M14 bolt into the holes and screw a self-locking nut onto it. You need to pass a piece of cable about 2 meters long under the bolts and tie it into a loop, to which the traction rope will be attached through a carabiner or thimble.

Brackets for blocks

On the top and bottom crossbars between the guide posts you need to secure one rigging block. Fastening is possible only through a bolted connection with the obligatory installation of wide washers or, better yet, metal plates under the nuts.

It is recommended to purchase climbing pulleys with a bearing or rigging pulleys with a groove. Most products have a solid body with tight-fitting cheeks, therefore, releasing the cable from the pulley is impossible.

If you're trying to accommodate existing skates, consider adding a retractor lug to them. Roll 6 mm thick steel wire until a loop is formed, and then bend the edges of the structure at the required distance for fastening under the nut to the axis of the block. If you equip the block roller with a swivel, lifting the load will be more convenient and the cable will last longer.

Rollers and their fastening

For smooth sliding of the cart, it should be equipped with four roller wheels installed on the sides 20-25 cm from the corners. Buy rollers with maintenance-free bearings and a single-sided steel axle at least 20 mm long. Instead of standard rollers, ball bearings with a closed cage and a cage width of at least 25 mm or wheels from old roller skates can be used.

The roller axis must be removed and a hole to match its diameter must be drilled in the center of the 40x80 mm plate. Having inserted the axle into the hole, install it strictly perpendicular to the plate and weld it, then make four holes in the corners for the M8 bolt.

How to improve the lift

A very useful addition that significantly increases the safety of use will be the installation of landing pockets for fixing the front wheels of the trolley in a raised position. This is not only very convenient when unloading, but also makes it possible to use the lift yourself.

To install pockets, it is necessary to cut out part of the back board of the guide on which the trolley rollers rest. When lifting, the wheel will slip into the formed opening and stop on a U-shaped block assembled from three bars. To prevent the wheel from accidentally popping out, leave a small lip on the board. After unloading, the trolley can be easily removed from the landing pockets and lowered down, holding it by the cable.

To lift more load at a time, you can strengthen the vertical frame of the cart and install a movable block on it, but this will increase the length of the rope by 1.5 times. The traction rope, in this case, is attached to one of the corners between the guide and the connecting crossbar, passed into a movable block on the trolley, then placed in the fixed upper and lower pulleys.

It is also possible to install the gate as on a well for convenient winding of the traction rope. It can be made from a cut of 100x100 mm timber, brought to a hexagon by a plane. To install the gate, you will need additional L-shaped posts and replacing the bottom crossbar mounting bolts with studs of the appropriate length. The loosened bolts must be used for oblique mating of the racks with the guides.

Using a gate implies increased danger, because a person is always at the lift. To prevent the cart from breaking and falling, it is recommended to install the simplest jumar of climbing equipment next to the upper block.

Throughout the long history of its existence, man has more than once been faced with the task of lifting and moving heavy objects in space. For example, the familiar Egyptian pyramids consist of massive stone blocks that no one can lift. Therefore, one of the greatest achievements of mankind is the invention of the weight crane, which made it possible to significantly simplify the task of moving heavy loads and speed up the construction of houses and other objects.

Machine structure

The operating principle of a crane is based on the physics of simple mechanisms. The simplest version of the crane is a stick placed on a fulcrum in such a way that the free ends have different lengths. Now if you hang a load on a short lever, it will take less effort to lift it. The most common design is one that uses, in addition to levers, a system of blocks.

A do-it-yourself crane is an indisputable assistant in small-scale construction. When constructing a private house, the use of bulky industrial cranes is not required. The height of the houses rarely exceeds 2 floors, and the weight of the lifted load is 200 kilograms.

Although there are many variations of lifting mechanisms, a classic crane consists of the following parts:

• An arrow with a block attached to its end. Depending on its length, the height to which the load can be lifted is determined.
• Platform. The boom and counterweight are attached to it. It is the main part of the crane and is subject to significant loads. Therefore, when manufacturing a platform, it is important to pay special attention to its strength.
• Counterweight. Serves to stabilize the crane. Defines the maximum load weight that the crane can lift. Stackable counterweight options are available to provide maximum stability.
• A guy wire connecting the boom and the counterweight. Allows you to adjust the tilt of the boom and move the load in both vertical and horizontal planes.
• Winch with cable. It is the lifting mechanism itself. The power of the winch determines how much weight the crane can lift.
• Stand with a rotating mechanism. It is necessary to turn the crane to the sides.
• The support cross, which is the base of the crane. Sets the stability of the entire structure. When making it, you should also pay attention to its strength.

terms of Use

To operate lifting mechanisms safely, certain rules must be followed.

These rules apply to any lifting device:

• The load capacity must not be exceeded. A load that is too heavy may damage the device.
• The base must be stable. Homemade lifting devices should be located on a previously prepared hard horizontal surface.
• In bad weather conditions, you should also refrain from working with the crane. Strong winds will throw the crane off balance, and poor visibility may make it difficult to see people under the boom.
• Before operating a crane or lifting device, it is necessary to carry out visual inspection for troubleshooting. If malfunctions are detected, operation of the crane is prohibited.
• It should be remembered that when working with the lift, you should not make sudden movements. The load must be lifted smoothly. And most importantly, do not stand under any lifted load.

What characteristics should a garage lift have?

In garage conditions, two types of lifting mechanisms are used. The first type includes a lift that can lift the entire car, and the second type includes a goose-type lift that allows you to move loads around the garage.

Lifts of the first type are stationary devices and the main requirement for them is stability. The car weighs more than a ton and should not have the slightest chance of falling. In order to prevent any accidents, the garage lift must have a reliable stopper.

The goose type lifts are most often used in auto repair shops. It is quite simple to make from profile pipe or channel. First, the base on which you want to install is welded. swivel mechanism. It is best to make an arrow with an adjustable reach. This will make it possible to move weights in any direction.

How a simple block design works

The pulley system or pulley system has been known to mankind since ancient times. The classic system design consists of pulleys and cable. One pulley is called a block. Depending on the mounting method, the pulley can be movable or stationary:

• Fixed block. It is attached to the support and plays the role of changing the direction of movement of the rope. Does not provide any gain in strength.
• Movable block. It is located on the side of the load and gives a gain in strength.

The principle of operation of a pulley block is similar to the principle of operation of a lever in the physics of simple mechanisms. The role of the lever in this case is played by the cable itself. When simple block of two pulleys, the movable pulley divides the rope into 2 parts and in order to lift the load the same distance, you will need a rope 2 times longer. The work of lifting the load is performed in the same volume. And the effort, due to the fact that the length of the rope has become twice as long, becomes half as much.

If there are more than 2 pulleys in the system, the gain in strength is approximately equal to the number of blocks. In the case of 3 blocks, the effort will be 3 times less, and 4 blocks will require only a quarter of the original effort.

Complex block system how to calculate power gain

If the system is designed in such a way that one simple pulley pulls another simple pulley, then this is already a complex system blocks. To theoretically calculate the gain in strength, it is necessary to conditionally divide a complex pulley into simple ones and multiply the values ​​of the gain from simple pulleys.

For example, if the system consists of 4 blocks, and the first conditional simple pulley has a gain of 3. It pulls the second simple two-block pulley, also with a gain of 3. The total force that will need to be applied will be 9 times less. It is the 4-block complex chain hoist that is most often used by rescuers.

Methods for attaching a rope to a lifting mechanism

When creating complex pulley blocks, there are often situations when a cable of the required length for attaching the moving block is not at hand.

Methods for attaching a cable using general-purpose rigging:

• Using a cord. Using a self-tightening knot, the cord is tied to the main cable. As the load is lifted, the grappling knot moves along the main rope, thereby allowing the height of the load to be increased.
• Using clamps. In case of use steel cable– it is not possible to use a cord, so it is necessary to use special clamps.

We create a simple lifting mechanism with our own hands

Construction of a crane is not a quick task and is justified if it is required frequently or the volume of work is large enough. In cases where the load needs to be lifted urgently or this is a one-time operation, you can use improvised means.

To create a simple lifting device you will need a cord and two blocks. One block and the end of the rope are fixed motionless on the support. This will be the highest point to which the load can be lifted. We attach the second block to the load using slings or a hook. We first pull the rope along the block attached to the load, then pass it through the upper block. The gain in power will be 2 times. Using your own weight, you can easily lift a load weighing 100 kilograms to the required height.

If you add the ability to move the upper block along a guide, for example along a rail, you can get a do-it-yourself jib crane. It is useful in garage conditions for moving heavy machine parts.

It should be remembered that when working with the lift, you should not make sudden movements. The load must be lifted smoothly. And most importantly, do not stand under any lifted load. The same rule applies to a crane - standing under the arrow is prohibited.

Materials and tools

The most important thing when making a crane is to use quality tool materials. This will guarantee that the structure will be strong and safe.

The cable should have minimal stretch; this will give a greater gain in strength when using a pulley system. The fittings used for tying must be taken only from metal. Plastic fittings does not withstand heavy loads and breaks at the wrong moment. As a fastener individual parts homemade crane You should choose hardware products with increased strength.

If a winch is intended to be used, its lifting capacity should not be less than 500 kilograms. Optimal choice there will be winches capable of lifting loads weighing 1 ton or more.

In conclusion, I would like to once again remind you of the need to observe safety precautions when working with lifting mechanisms. Also, regardless of whether the crane is purchased or made by yourself, you should inspect it before starting work.

Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.

And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.

In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.

A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.

Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.

Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.

Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.

To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. You need to estimate the height of the stand so that when finished it will be just right for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.

Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.

When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .

Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.

All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.

The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.

The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of ​​installing them is still there.

The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.

If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.

But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.

Next will be the counterweight block.

I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.

There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but it was at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, that I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.

Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.

First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.

Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.

We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.

Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.

The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.

The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.

At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.

Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.

And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the knot more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it long ago.

Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.

All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.

Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.

This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from 100 x 50 timber. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.

The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.

Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.

Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.

In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.

Well, a couple of examples of operation:

General view of my faucet:

If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.

I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.

The weight of objects can be such that one, or even five people, cannot move them manually, but it is necessary. In such cases it will be useful homemade device for lifting or moving heavy objects. A hand winch is the most popular device in this business. It’s not at all difficult to make a manual winch for a garage with your own hands, even at home. But first you need a calculation and a drawing of the mechanism.

What the block for lifting loads and construction crane is to use the idea of ​​increasing force - the rule of leverage. In order to balance the load on the short side of the lever, you need to apply less force to its long side to the extent that the short arm is less than the long one. The ratio of forces at the ends of the lever is called the gear ratio.

You can balance and even lift a weight with an effort less than its weight, but the path made by the end of a long lever will be longer than that of a short one, just as less force was applied to lift it. There is no gain in work (F1*L1=F2*L2), but this is not required.

The use of Archimedes' principle is implemented in different lifting mechanisms, and how depends on the purpose of the lift. Designs differ in gear ratio, principle of force transfer, mobility, strength, and energy used. Most popular for self-made kinds:

• chain hoists;
• drum structures;
• lever mechanism.

To choose the type of device needed for specific work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with their capabilities and limitations.

The only simpler device for moving heavy objects is a metal scrap. Main element– a wheel with a chamfer in the middle of the outer surface, the axis of which is fixed to the ceiling beam. You can throw a hoist over it, and the lift with a gear ratio of 1 to 1 is ready. To increase the leverage, let's pass the hoist through another loose wheel, the axis of which is connected to the load, and fix the hoist at the top of the structure.

The gear ratio will become equal to 2. Now let's attach another wheel to the ceiling, and pass the end of the hoist through it, securing it to the axis of the lower wheel. The gear ratio will become equal to 3. And so on, by adding one wheel at a time and changing the location of the hoist attachment, you can increase the gear ratio.

The location of the wheels relative to each other may be different.

The most compact designs are those with single-axle wheels. The design of such devices has two wheel holders. Having studied the drawings of the chain hoist, it will not be difficult to assemble it with your own hands. You will need two clips:

The end of the hoist is fixed to one of the clips.

Pulley hoists also have disadvantages. To increase the gear ratio by 1, you need to add one wheel each time, as a result the weight of the mechanism increases. In addition, bending the cable on each wheel requires force, reducing the efficiency of the device. You can reduce these losses by increasing the diameter of the wheels, but at the same time there will be an increase in the weight and dimensions of the pulley. Other types of lifts do not have these disadvantages.

The principle of operation of winches resembles a simple lever fixed at a fulcrum. If the short arm of the lever is the surface of the cylinder, and the load is attached to it by a cable, you will get a winch with a gear ratio equal to the ratio of the length of the lever and the radius of the cylinder. To prevent reverse rotation, a ratcheting mechanism with a spring-loaded pawl is installed on the axis - a ratchet. You can assemble such a hand winch with your own hands according to the drawing:

However, the high gear ratio of the system will require a very long handle, which is inconvenient. The solution is found in two types of drum winches, which increase the gear ratio using gears or a worm gear.

How to make a winch with your own hands using a worm gear can be seen in the drawing:

A ratchet is not needed in this design; the gear ratio, when the worm flange passes over each gear tooth, is equal to the number of gear teeth multiplied by the ratio of the length of the handle to the radius of the worm. But a significant disadvantage will be the friction between the teeth and the comb. The mechanism requires constant lubrication.

The gear reducer operates with much less friction. When using the principle of transmitting force through a pair of gears of different diameters, the easiest way to make a manual drum winch with your own hands is this:

Please note that a stopper is required in such devices. This design is used for small heights or lengths of cargo movement. A cable guide will help increase the movement distance by evenly distributing the cable along the length of the cylinder. The easiest way to get the result is to use a spring-loaded plate or rod that presses the cable to the drum:

The most popular use for lever jacks is as a car jack. As universal device it is used less frequently, since the lifting height is small and limited.

The lifting of the load occurs as a result of repeated small movements of the platform between fixed positions on the rail. IN household rarely finds use. The positive quality of lever systems is reliability and durability.

At home, you can use improvised materials and ready-made transfer units. For example, the ratchet used in a KAMAZ vehicle to equalize the braking force is a ready-made worm gear mechanism.

You can get rid of manual lifting for a long time if you assemble the motorized winch system with your own hands for work once. To do this, you need to put a gear on the winch drive axis, connecting it with a chain to the chainsaw drive sprocket on a rigid housing structure.

By combining block mechanisms with drum winches, you can work to compensate for the shortcomings of each type of lift. For example, pulley hoists do not provide a lock that prevents reverse movement of the hoist, but drum swans eliminate this very simply. But the angle between the lifting force vector and the weight vector of the pulley can be almost anything, which winches cannot boast of.

You can use purchased lifts on the farm, but, as a rule, winches are needed where stores are far away - and always urgently. It's worth looking in the garage for some parts to get out of the situation.