How to make yourself a domed hood for the kitchen. How to make a hood in a private house: instructions for use. Harmful pollution in the kitchen

In this article, you can learn how to make your own kitchen hood in several not the most difficult stages.

Materials and tools used by the author to create a kitchen hood:
- thin furniture plywood 4 mm thick
- wooden blocks with square, rectangular and round sections
- baguette and corner strips
-decorative wooden lattice
-PVA glue
- putty and primer for wood
- construction serpyanka
- self-tapping screws
- grout and tile adhesive
-painting matt white
- electric jigsaw
-hacksaw
- screwdriver
-drills for wood
-various sandpaper
- joinery clamps
-brushes and paint roller
-roulette
-pencil
-cardboard
-large steel square
- construction stapler
- Phillips screwdriver
-knife

A detailed description of the manufacture of a kitchen hood:

The author faced the following problem: when ordering a new kitchen unit, the space for the hood was calculated disproportionately to it. One could buy a new hood, but basically they all have standardized sizes and turned out to be either a little larger or a little smaller than necessary. But the biggest disadvantage is that even if you find a hood of the right size, it is not a fact that it will look harmoniously with the rest of the kitchen set.

Therefore, it was decided to make a cooker hood on our own. Thus, immediately solving the problem with the non-standard size and design of the hood for the new kitchen.

A Czech-made cooker hood was used as the main components for parts of a home-made kitchen hood. Its body is pyramid-shaped and has an unsightly design, so it was decided to make a new body for it.

Step one: sketching.

Before creating the body for the new hood, the author made a few sketches of how it should look.

Search for various solutions for assembling the hood:

Step two: base for the hood.

When all the basic technological solutions for creating and assembling a new kitchen hood were found, the author immediately proceeded to work on it. Due to the fact that it was necessary to work under normal conditions, and not in a workshop, where various special machines and equipment could be used, the work went on for quite a long time and painstakingly.

To begin with, the base for the hood, its portal, was assembled.

Then the portal was framed by the purchased baguette and corner strips, respectively.

Step three: create the wireframe of the hood.

In order to give the hood the shape of an unusual design, which the author conceived, he made a carpentry frame according to the sketches given earlier.

Step four: cutting and preparing the walls.

Then templates were made for the wall of the future hood. For their manufacture, thin cardboard was used.

After that, according to the templates obtained, the walls themselves for the hood were cut out of plywood.

They have been carefully sanded and primed.

Step five: installing the walls.

Further, the joints of the walls were glued with a serpyanka, the surfaces were putty and sanded for their further painting.

Step six: decorating the outer part of the hood and installing it.

After that, the hood was ready, all that remained was to install it in its rightful place. Tiles were laid under the selected attachment point for the hood. Then the author attached the hood to the wall.

The cheapness of purchased hoods is attractive, but often the functionality of such models does not suit consumers. Today we will try to fantasize about how to make a cooker hood in the kitchen with our own hands. The main factor is pollution. The fat will certainly settle on the blades. Nowadays it is difficult to find a kitchen hood without a single filter in a supermarket. Meanwhile, such devices are noisy, losing performance on every corner.

How to make a work of art from a cooker hood

Designer Alexander Serebryakov offers to buy a cheap hood and make an incredible piece. An umbrella kitchen hood is bought as a blank. At the end of a long search, it was decided to stop at Elikor White Storm 60 antique gold:

• standard width 60 cm;
• high noise level 56 dB;
• grease filter;
• productivity 650 cubic meters per hour;

• the price is 2,600 rubles at least;
• number of speeds 3;
• lighting - incandescent lamp;
• weight 7.5 kg;
• work on exhaust and recirculation.

A strict white umbrella itself asks to be beautifully decorated. Decorating is foreseen. Please note that we do not use heavy materials. Only fiberboard with a thickness of 1.5 cm and glazing beads 2x2 cm. The control panel is located at the bottom, the top of the umbrella is at our disposal. From the specified model of the Classic line, we will make Country.

First, we make the base from fiberboard. We assemble the frame in the manner of a mailbox. We cut the fiberboard so that it retreats forward by 10 cm, on the sides - at the place of installation. It is ideal to use a jigsaw, a circular saw with a fine tooth will do. It is allowed to assemble the base from several pieces in the absence of a tool. For the convenience of work, we put the cooker hood on the table and proceed. Be careful with the control panel so as not to push through or damage the structure.

The height of the kitchen hood umbrella is 40 cm (according to the product card data). For a quarter we make a hollow rectangular pedestal. At each point should fit snugly against the umbrella. The assembly is carried out according to the method of an old mailbox. We nail it in two or three places to keep it. When cutting and assembling, we use a corner and a level for precise positioning of parts relative to each other. We take small carnations, fix the result. If the work is done correctly, by pulling the base up, remove it from the Elikor White Storm 60 kitchen hood umbrella.

Purchased materials for decorating a kitchen hood with your own hands

To give the product a beautiful look, Alexander Serebryakov suggests using polished profiled boards. Suitable, for example, a tall, beautiful curly skirting board (combined with parquet), for the lower and upper border of the base. It is better to take a bare tree in order to independently give the desired color with stain and varnish. It is worth stocking up on glue that is not afraid of heating and grabs the tree.

Alexander calls wide polished boards baguettes. We will do with simple door trims. Choose equally, unpainted.

1. High skirting boards (height greater than width) will need about 4 meters.
2. Baguettes (wide door trims) - a similar number.
3. Fiberboard in place, buy a couple of squares in the form of a standard sheet, it will fit on the farm.
4. You will need a thin hardboard in the amount of two square meters (sheathing of the rear walls of the cabinets).
5. Square glazing beads 2 - 3 cm in diameter (a reduced likeness of laminated veneer lumber) will come in handy. A 6 meter cut.

The boards have to be painted on their own, they will come in handy:

1. A jar of heat-resistant varnish.
2. Stain or potassium permanganate.
3. Antiseptic primer.
4. We cover the inner side without varnish with waterproofing (primer).
5. A pair of brushes, a cloth for sanding layers.
6. Lacquer thinner.
7. A small can of white paint for wood, heat resistant.

Let's start by cutting out the details, you will have to varnish later. We take the plinth and surround the bottom of the base on three sides. The fourth is adjacent to the wall. We saw off the boards on the kitchen hood with our own hands with a hand saw at an angle of 45 degrees for a tight joint. We make a similar perimeter on top, but we fasten the boards upside down. In the future, it will be necessary to varnish the baguettes that will form the shelf.

Varnishing process

Now you need a heat-resistant varnish. The varnish requirements are simple:

1. Operating temperature up to 180 ºС.
2. The ability to cover wood products.

Two requirements are sufficient. Boards must be prepared and dried. We believe that readers do not have a special factory-type camera at home. Hang the boards over the slab before cutting to dry out the material. We'll do the sawing later.

First, we put the soil, protecting against rot and beetles. There is a stain on top.

It is not always necessary to wait for drying between two treatments. Then we recommend making a cooker hood without waiting.

Preparing the mixture:

• 1 part varnish to 4 parts solvent.

The composition covers the wood after the primer so that the varnish settles. Otherwise, the bottom layer will begin to peel off from our kitchen hood. We are waiting for complete drying. At the same time, work is underway to form the dome. For quick drying of the varnish, buy special products. You will need to apply 5 coats, not counting the first. Each dries within the time specified by the instruction. Then each is polished.

In order not to waste time, we process the plinth and platbands in parallel.

Dome Formation for Kitchen Hood

On the top of the pedestal of the future dome of the kitchen hood is the plinth upside down. We attach a baguette (pieces of platband) to it at an angle of 45 degrees outward, like a door frame. To make the board lie flat, we will trim the length with a plane or a similar tool. Please note that the top end is processed parallel to the bottom. Saw it off at an angle, adjust it in place.

A dome rises from the base. We carry out templates from fiberboard in shape. The ends form a frame for hardboard, from which we will make the walls of the kitchen hood dome with our own hands. We use glue for fastening. It remains to fasten the fiberboard profiles:

1. There are 6, 2 pieces per side.
2. They are mounted vertically, in pairs to fix each side, connecting with two round bars, like a wall bar (a Forstner drill will help).
3. On top, the structure is upholstered with glazing beads, installed on the base of the kitchen hood.

The skeleton of the kitchen hood dome is simply nailed to the base. Please note that the bottom of the profiles is not visible. Here we put the platbands horizontally with the first edge on the existing ones at an angle of 45 degrees. The second - on ordinary glazing beads, laid along the perimeter of the kitchen hood dome. When the platbands and skirting boards are cut and fitted to each other, we begin to varnish (operation for four days).

In the meantime, we are laying hardboard in place. The process is simple, but painstaking. We assemble the dome of the kitchen hood using a knife and emery. The task is to carefully glue three sides. Please note that nails should not be used in conspicuous places.

Do-it-yourself installation of a kitchen hood is carried out in a typical style, we mount a white-painted dome on top. We will surround the resulting shelf with carved railings.

The hood in the kitchen is a type of household appliance that removes unpleasant odors there, removes combustion products, grease and other particles from the air.

Often, when carrying out repairs and redevelopment of the kitchen, the old hood is no longer suitable in size or appearance. In this case, a home-made hood can help, which everyone can do.

What you need to know before work

Before you start developing a homemade kitchen hood, you need to understand exactly how such a device functions, look at the photos of finished models on the network in order to choose the best option for yourself.

Not everyone knows that there are such types of devices that not only extract exhaust air, but process it with special filters, releasing it back in a purified form. Some models simply remove the air mixture from the kitchen through the ventilation system to which they are connected.

Therefore, the first thing to do before developing your own hoods is to make sure that the ventilation system in the house is working properly.

If the ventilation is dirty, the traction force will be reduced or even absent altogether. As a result, the cooker hood will not be able to perform its functions. Therefore, before starting all work, it is important to clean the system for removing the air mixture from the kitchen.

When high-tightness plastic window structures are used in the kitchen, special ventilation valves should be installed on them, otherwise the operation of the hood will be of low efficiency.

A do-it-yourself cooker hood can be one of two varieties:

• active;
• passive.

Passive models remove the air mixture from the room only due to the upward draft, since they do not have any fans or electric motors. As a result, a self-made hood of this type can only work if the ventilation is in excellent condition.

Active hoods function thanks to the installed electric motor. Such models are highly efficient, but consume a lot of electricity.

Required materials and tools used

The next stage of the process, the result of which will be a do-it-yourself kitchen hood is the preparation or purchase of all the required tools along with the materials. Among them:

• sheets of drywall, characterized by increased resistance to moisture;
• profiles with a galvanized surface;
• perforated corner;
• corrugated pipe;
• fasteners;
• insulating material for corrugation;
• paint and putty, putty knife and brushes;
• puncher and screwdriver;
• overlays for corners.

Sequence of work

After preparing all the required materials along with the tools, you can begin to perform the necessary work. Their first stage is marking the future device and its duct on the walls of the room. The easiest option would be when the ventilation hole is located directly above the hob. If it is somewhere on the sidelines, it is also necessary to develop a box for decorating the corrugation.

In the case of finishing the kitchen ceiling with plasterboard, the duct can be partially decorated with it.

The next step is to make a frame to accommodate the duct using galvanized metal profiles. They are mounted where the air duct will pass in the future, using an anchor. If the pipe is not straight, the profile will need to be installed with bends in the required places. The initial profile - starting - is installed down in several parts, securing them with self-tapping screws.

The next stage is the completion of the arrangement of the drywall box. For this, a second panel is installed on the finished parts. Upon completion of the development of the lower part, transverse strips are installed on top of it, later they will be sheathed with sheets of drywall.

At the fourth stage, you need to make the body of the future hood. Above the plate, the lower part of the exhaust device made of a profile is installed on the wall. In this case, the task will be significantly facilitated when the presence of a niche is provided for the device. If it is not there, then the lower side of the hood to the box must also be attached from the sides. The main components of the hood are made from a profile, attaching them to the bottom. To give the structure more rigidity, it can be reinforced with jumpers, which are also made from a profile.

So that there is no unnecessary noise during the operation of the hood, the pipe must be wrapped with high-quality sound-insulating material.

The last stage is finishing the device. To do this, the hood body and the duct box are sheathed with drywall sheets. Next, a layer of putty is applied to it, which will hide the seams between the sheets and fasteners. After that, it remains only to paint the hood and the box, and instead, you can decorate them.

This type of design is suitable for both passive and active exhaust devices. In the second case, an electric motor must also be installed inside the device case, connected to a grounded outlet. It will create a strong draft that will quickly remove exhaust air from the kitchen.

Features of the development of the frame

To make the appearance of the finished device attractive, you will need to perform such work.

Assemble the main body of the device by installing a grate on its lower part and, if necessary, an electric motor. If at the initial stages of work the structure does not look very attractive, do not worry - the sheathing will qualitatively hide any irregularities.

Next, a frame is attached to the base, everyone chooses its shape independently, depending on their own preferences. The main thing is that an air duct pipe must be placed inside. In this case, you can view ready-made ideas in a photo from the network or do everything yourself.

Finishing parts are cut from the selected material, with which the frame is glued. After the glue dries, the surface of the material is sanded, a layer of putty is applied to it. After it dries, it remains only to paint the finished cooker hood, made by hand, in the desired color.

Having done everything right, you will make with your own hands a high-quality and functional hood, which will not only cope with its duties wonderfully, but also have an attractive appearance.

Thus, the process of developing a hood with your own hands does not imply anything complicated, so everyone can do it on their own. As a result of this, a functional exhaust device will be obtained, which will have a completely original appearance.

The hood for the kitchen is a must. It helps to get rid of unpleasant odors, remove excess steam that occurs during cooking. Of course, it becomes an integral part of the interior. In the process of repairing or refurbishing a kitchen, many are faced with the problem of choosing a hood. Often this part simply does not fit in size, appearance or other parameters. But in reality, the problem can be solved very simply. A do-it-yourself kitchen hood will have the necessary dimensions and be unique. It is not difficult to make it.

Hood types

Before considering the question of how and from what, to make a cooker hood for the kitchen, you should first understand a little about the principle of operation of this device and the available types. Such an integral attribute differs not only in design, installation method, but also in the principle of operation. Today, the following types of kitchen hoods are distinguished:

• domed - they are mounted directly above the gas stove. Basically, they are all of the same type, having a conical shape with an air pipe.
• flat - have a very compact size. They do not have a built-in air duct and work due to built-in replaceable filters. The flat suspended kitchen hood is ideal for rooms with a small area. These small devices look very stylish and modern, yet they are efficient enough to work with and very mobile. These hoods are the easiest to install.
• built-in - they are mounted inside the kitchen unit, do not take up much space and fit into any interior. These devices can be of the following types: modular and telescopic. The first option has small dimensions, but the telescopic hood for the kitchen has an exhaust panel and is built into the kitchen cabinet. Both options work by means of replaceable filters.

In addition to the types, the principle of operation of hoods should also be highlighted:

The disadvantage of this principle of operation is the frequent filter change. These models are often fitted with special charcoal filters. Of course, they clean the air well, and most importantly eliminate unpleasant odors, but they also have a short service life. Therefore, these systems are distinguished by a lower cost than flow-through ones and also by lower operating efficiency.

It is worth adding that most models are connected to the network to improve performance efficiency. The cooker hood must be connected to a separate grounded outlet.

Based on all of the above, we can conclude that in terms of performance, devices with an active type air duct (with forced air outflow, due to the built-in electric motor) are the most functional and efficient option.

So, when you decide on the type of hood, you can consider the idea of \u200b\u200bhow to make a hood for the kitchen with your own hands.

If you have a ventilation system, then you can easily build a device with passive ventilation through an air duct. If there is no such system in your house or it is not provided for the kitchen, then you can consider the option of creating a device with your own hands and active ventilation using a built-in electric motor.

The simplest and most inexpensive option for making a device for purifying the air in the kitchen is a model made of plasterboard. What you need to make this device:

1. Plasterboard sheets, preferably a brand with increased moisture resistance.
2. Metal profiles.
3. Metal corners.
4. Corrugated pipe for air duct device.
5. Materials for finishing the dome hood (paint, putty).
6. Material for the air pipe insulation device.

The step-by-step manufacturing instructions are as follows.

1. Initially, marking work is carried out. Be sure to keep in mind that on the wall you will have not only the device itself, but also an air duct to it. It is desirable to hide it inside the plasterboard structure. The appearance will be much more aesthetic.
2. Next, a frame for the duct is made.

• A pipe box must be attached to the wall using a building level. The top bar is installed first. If you decide to make a curved box, then do not forget to cut and bend it before attaching the profile, giving it the shape you need.
• After installing the starting profile, the vertical elements are lowered down.
• Vertical fragments are fixed with a lower bar from the same profile. Do not forget to attach the transverse strips to it, which are necessary for attaching the gypsum walls.

The rigid frame of the box is also assembled from the existing galvanized profile. To simplify the work, immediately before assembly, it is necessary to make a detailed drawing and calculate the hood for the kitchen. All dimensions should be applied to the drawing so as not to be mistaken in the manufacturing process.

When making the frame, be sure to pay attention to the additional transverse jumpers. They are usually attached to the side. Jumpers are necessary in order to provide rigidity to the structure.

Before sheathing the box, you must first connect the corrugated pipe duct to the ventilation hole. Before connecting, make sure that the exhaust port is working and there is a draft.

Box finishing

For the kitchen, it can have a wide variety of shapes. Galvanized profile and drywall allow you to create a wide variety of shapes. And, of course, the finish will add even more uniqueness to your device.

The easiest and most efficient way is:

• the frame sheathed with plasterboard, reinforced with metal corners;
• putty, special attention, paying attention to the joints of the sheets and the places of screwing in screws or screws;
• paint, whitewash or finish with tiles or decorative panels. Here, only your imagination is able to come up with the design you need.

Materials (edit)

Of course, when creating a hood with your own hands, the problem arises, what materials to use? Here, in addition to drywall, you can also use plywood or MDF. In order for the air duct not to make much noise, the pipe is usually wrapped with sound-insulating material, and a galvanized profile is ideal for the frame of the decorative box.

To save money and for decoration, you can use wooden moldings, staining them with a stain to the desired color. Polyurethane decorative skirting boards can be used. And even fiberboard sheets are suitable for the box.

Thus, you can create a simply unique work of art in the kitchen, and if you have an ordinary standard device that works reasonably well, then you can build a new box for it.

A do-it-yourself kitchen hood will help you use the kitchen space more functionally, even if you have a compact filter-based device installed.

Such a compact device can be built into a homemade rectangular cabinet. For the cabinet, you can build a small outer shelf with a ledge and finish with materials that fit the overall interior. Thus, a new usable space appears. And a disguised hood looks much more aesthetically pleasing than a separate device installed above the stove. With the right approach and low cost, you can create a truly unique fume hood option.

Plastic windows, armored doors, on the one hand, maintain the desired temperature in the premises, and on the other, they cause problems with air exchange. A well-designed hood in a private house will relieve you of the feeling of mustiness and the formation of condensation. In most cases, this is the only way to create a healthy microclimate in it.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the options for exhaust devices that can improve the microclimate. Together with you, we analyze the production of calculations using a specific example. We have described in detail the process of installing a forced type of hood for those who want to do the installation with their own hands.

Information provided is based on regulatory requirements. The information is complemented by illustrations, step-by-step photo guides, diagrams, tables and videos.

Both in public buildings and in private houses, different types of ventilation systems are used. They differ in purpose, in the way of activating the air flow and moving air masses. , designed to supply clean air to the house, is called supply air.

The design, the function of which is to remove the exhaust air outside the room, is called the exhaust. Recirculation ventilation performs a special mission. In this case, a part of the air removed from the room is mixed with external cold air masses with further heating of this mixture to the set temperature and its return to the room.

Air movement occurs as a result of processes that occur naturally due to the displacement of heated air with a lighter weight from the room by cold air having a larger volumetric weight.

The flow in such a system moves at a low speed, since the weight of the warm and cold mass differs by a small amount. ventilation with a natural urge is irrational to use if its horizontal length exceeds 8 m.

More efficient is the system with artificial activation of the air flow, provided by the operation of the fans. In this case, the air ducts are long and can pass through several rooms. The elements of the system are most often placed in the attic. This option is justified for buildings with a large area.

There is a division into channel and channelless systems. In the first case, air moves through channels and air ducts, in the second, there is no organized air movement. In this case, you have to open window transoms, doors. Natural ventilation creates more comfortable conditions for the residents of the house.

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The ventilation system, oriented to the removal of the exhaust air mass, frees up space for the intake of a fresh portion of air

According to the method of exhaust air removal, exhaust ventilation schemes are divided into ducted and channelless

By the type of induction of the air flow to movement, ventilation systems are natural, forced and combined. In natural versions, air moves without the use of mechanical means, in combined ones - mechanical means and the laws of physics are used

In forced versions of the exhaust ventilation device, air is removed due to the operation of a suction fan installed in the exhaust air duct

A powerful supply and exhaust system is usually located in the attic of the house. Air ducts are protected with foil-clad thermal insulation

Forced exhaust systems are mainly equipped with rooms with unstable humidity and temperature indicators. In kitchens, they are more than appropriate.

An exhaust fan in the bathroom will provide a quick decrease in humidity, which will eliminate the appearance of mold and protect building structures with finishing from destruction

The basement hood will provide stable foundation strength and allow the use of underground rooms

Exhaust ventilation system

Duct exhaust air duct

Natural ventilation of a private house

Ventilator with hood in the bathroom

Exhaust system in the attic of the house

Hood in the kitchen in a country house

Exhaust fan in the bathroom

Exhaust pipe from the basement

Necessary preliminary calculations

The initial parameter in the calculation is the volume of air taken out and supplied to the room. There is more than one technique, but the most used ones are based on sanitary standards and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

According to the requirement of the former, it is necessary to start from the fact that the demand for air is in m 3 / h. for one person who spends most of the time in the house depends on the purpose of the room:

• living room - 40;
• bedroom - 20;
• kitchen - 60;
• bathroom - 25.

Based on the second criterion, one proceeds from the following regulatory requirement: there should be 3 m 3 of air to be replaced per 1 m² of living space. When calculating the cross-section of the air ducts, they are guided by the fact that the optimal value of the air speed in the central channel is 5 m / s, and in the side channel - a maximum of 3 m / s.

You can independently determine the diameter of the pipe using the formula:

S \u003d L / 3600 / v,

where L is the productivity, measured in m 3 / h, v is the air speed in m / s.

The data on air consumption depending on the duct cross-section are summarized in the table.

The aerodynamic resistance of an air duct with a circular cross-section is less than with a square one. The square shape is more compact, fits organically into the interior of the room, has a large size range

Air ducts are made of metal, plastic, aluminum foil, polyester. The last two are flexible systems. They have good noise and heat insulation characteristics and they are the best suited for a private house.

Natural air exchange in the house

Natural air exchange is based on the property of gaseous and part of liquid substances with a higher temperature to rise. Thus, the exhaust air is naturally removed from the room through a vertically located exhaust duct, simultaneously drawing in the outside air through the supply ducts.

Natural ventilation does not always provide comfort in the home. A mixed version is often used, when, in addition to natural air movement, fans are additionally used (+)

The ineffectiveness of supply ventilation is indicated by excess moisture in the room during cold weather or increased dryness in warm weather. The presence of a large amount of dust, lack of oxygen are also signs of insufficient air flow from the outside.

The consequence of a poor hood is under the wallpaper, in the bathroom, soot settling on the kitchen walls, misted windows.

It is easy to check the operation of the hood. It is enough to bring a sheet of paper to the ventilation lattice. With good draft, it will bend towards the ventilation duct, otherwise nothing will happen. It should be concluded that the hood is clogged with something and the channel must be cleaned to ensure traction.

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The effectiveness of natural ventilation directly depends on the condition of the ventilation grilles and ducts. Normal air movement should not be impeded by build-up of dust and fat deposits

To check the operation of the extraction system of the natural system, it is enough to attach a sheet of paper to the grate. If it is not pressed by the air flow, the exhaust duct does not work.

If you have doubts about folk remedies, you should contact the management company to check the system with technical means

Measurements should be taken on a cool day to obtain reliable readings. At this time, it is necessary to open the vents for air intake.

Dirty ventilation grill

Clogged ventilation duct indicator

Technical check of ventilation

Conditions for the control

To provide a private house with good ventilation, you need to start by calculating air exchange. Based on its results, the cross-section of the channels, the type of ventilation system are selected and a draft version of the ventilation scheme is made, where the places of passage of the air ducts and the installation of ventilation equipment, the points of intake and output of the air mass are indicated.

Private houses are mainly located outside the city, where the air, in contrast to the city, is cleaner and there is no need for additional purification. Therefore, natural ventilation is preferable for a private house.

A big obstacle to the intake of fresh air is plastic windows, in which there are no cracks, and the glass is very tight to the frames.

Outlet in the supply valve unit. It is located on the upper frame, so the air coming from the street goes under the ceiling and only after mixing with conventional flows and attaining room temperature does it go down.

The location of the elements of the exhaust system should ensure the passage of air flow covering the entire house in the direction from "clean" rooms to those where the air is most susceptible to pollution.

According to this rule, in rooms with special conditions, which include boiler rooms, kitchens with a gas stove, basements, rooms with fireplaces and water heaters, toilets, the presence of a hood is mandatory. Valves are also needed in these rooms.

The design features of the supply valve allow you to ventilate the room without creating drafts and without reducing the performance of the window. This does not form condensation. The slotted valve as pictured can be installed on an existing window unit

There are wall-mounted ventilation valves. This branch pipe with a circular cross-section is inserted into a through hole in the wall and covered with gratings from both the inside and the outside.

Typically, a wall-mounted supply fan can supply 50-100 mᶾ of air per hour to the house. Based on this norm and after performing the appropriate calculation, their optimal number is selected

The grill located inside can be adjusted - it can be opened and closed completely or partially. When installing, preference is given to a place near the window. Sometimes the supply valve is mounted behind the radiator and then the incoming air is immediately heated.

Requirements for ventilation of a private house

Sanitary and technical standards put forward a number of requirements for the aircraft. When deciding how to make an effective hood in a private house, all the points must be taken into account:

1. The inner walls of the canals must be smooth. To ensure this condition, round or rectangular air ducts of constant cross-section are inserted into them.
2. The ventilation riser in the lower part is equipped with an inspection door. It must be hermetically sealed.
3. The exhaust duct is brought out to the roof with a minimum elevation of 1.5 m above it. If the roof has a broken shape, then a deflector is installed in the exhaust duct in order to avoid the occurrence of reverse thrust caused by swirling of flows.
4. Ventilation shaft device. If initially there was no ventilation system in the building, an attached shaft is attached to one of the walls. To improve traction, it must be insulated.
5. Compliance with the rules for organizing ventilation. It is impossible to combine a mechanical kitchen hood with a common sun. A separate channel is arranged for her, otherwise there will be problems with the functioning of the natural draft in other rooms of the house.
6. The maximum permissible distance from the ceiling to the top of the ventilation grilles is 150 mm. With an increase in this distance, air stagnation zones will appear.

Doors separating adjacent rooms, even when closed, must not impede the flow of air.

The best solution is to purchase a door with a special decorative grill at the bottom. If a solid door is installed, a gap of at least 2 cm is left between the floor and the door leaf, or a number of holes are drilled at the bottom.

The essence of the basic requirement is that the volume of air to be removed should be equal to the amount of incoming air. If this rule is not followed, then various unpleasant odors will penetrate into the room along with the air. With a large imbalance between the volume of incoming air and the hood, drafts will appear.

Recirculation ventilation union

Recirculation is called CB, when the air removed from the room returns back through the inflow with an admixture of fresh air. The disadvantage is that its use is limited by SNiP, and in regions with a cold climate, it does not work very effectively. Its action is limited to one room.

Recirculation saves on energy consumption due to the fact that power is consumed only for heating a small volume of air mass taken from the street

The recirculating system circuit can be converted into an ordinary one by closing the recirculation valve and completely opening the supply and exhaust. If you do the opposite, then the system begins to drive air in a circle.

When the inlet and outlet valves are only partially open, fresh outside air will be added. By adjusting the degree of opening, they optimize the flow of elements that ensure comfortable life.

Installation of forced draft of a private house

Forced air exchange, in comparison with natural air, wins in many respects:

1. It works regardless of the weather.
2. Cleans the air more efficiently.
3. There is a possibility to adjust the rotation speed and power of the fans.
4. The air flow can be set in motion not only with a duct fan, but also by using monoblocks, which are easy to install.

The main disadvantages are dependence on power supply and the need for periodic replacement of individual elements. There are several mechanisms for forced ventilation.

It can be a single supply and exhaust unit, type-setting supply system, exhaust, channel air conditioner. The supply and exhaust air handling unit is considered the most effective. The design includes a fan, automation, sensors, filters.

The spread of cold air in the room during the operation of the supply and exhaust ventilation is prevented by a special damper located in the housing

The forced draft hood has a single fan as standard and is intended for small rooms. In the SV of the typesetting type, the equipment is the same, but it is placed separately. The system capacity is in the range of 80-7000 m 3 / h.

In buildings with a large area, it is necessary to install hoods with a capacity of 350 to 500 m 3 / h.

Hood installation technology in the kitchen

The hood in the kitchen is usually placed above the stove. It is necessary that the hood protrudes from the plate by 100-150 mm.

Performance is selected based on the parameters of the room using the formula:

P \u003d S x H x 12

Where the first symbol denotes the power of the second - the area of \u200b\u200bthe third - the height of the kitchen.

Depending on the installation method, kitchen hoods are suspended, wall-mounted, island, built-in, and according to the type of operation, circulating and supply

The ducts usually follow an indirect path, which can reduce the exhaust power. To guarantee, 30% is added to the value obtained as a result of the calculation. The installation technology is simple, therefore, having understood the diagram, you can do all the work yourself.

When there is no built-in sun. then, first, a hole is made in the wall, which coincides in diameter with the section of the chimney. If this recommendation is disregarded, the work will be accompanied by increased noise, and the air will exit at a lower speed.

The structure itself is located at the station at least 0.7 m from the surface of the electric stove and 0.8 m from the gas one.

The next step is to mark the mount. Sometimes a template is included in the hood kit, but if it does not turn out to be, you can use a level and a tape measure. Further, the exhaust umbrella is fixed, observing the horizontal position.

Connect the structure to the previously made outlet, connect to the mains and test. If the house has a gas water heater, then the ventilation pipe can be taken out into the chimney of a boiler or heating stove.

The process of installing a kitchen hood with a camouflage dome will be demonstrated by the following photo selection:

Image gallery

In order to bring the exhaust duct outside, we drill a wall. We use first a tile drilling nozzle, then a drill for brick and concrete walls

For the installation of the exhaust duct, we will use a corrugated pipe. We try it on to the place of installation, if necessary, we modify the hole

We mark in fact the attachment points of the dome, with the help of which we will mask the exhaust device with an air duct

We install dowels into the holes drilled according to the marking, into which we screw the screws

We cut the corrugated exhaust duct in accordance with the required dimensions. We cut with ordinary scissors

We attach the camouflage dome to the place of its future location, check the horizontal lines with verticals and the length of the corrugation

We connect the hood inside the dome to the exhaust duct. At first we slightly squeeze the corrugation so that it fits snugly afterwards, straightening in the hole

We connect the hood to the mains and check its performance by attaching a piece of paper to the working area

Step 1: Drilling a hole for the duct outlet

Step 2: Fitting the corrugation to the installation site

Step 3: Layout and arrangement of attachment points

Step 4: Screw in the mounting screws

Step 5: Trimming the corrugation to actual dimensions

Step 6: Fitting the dome to the location

Step 7: Connecting the exhaust unit to the duct

Step 8: Checking the functionality of the exhaust system

Forced extraction of a bathroom in a private house

In the bathroom for forced ventilation, the installation of exhaust fans operating in a humid environment is performed:

1. bring power to the room and install an outlet;
2. a hole is made in the wall corresponding to the section of the fan clutch;
3. the sleeve is placed in the hole;
4. fixing holes are drilled;
5. connect the cable;
6. removing the front panel from the fan, fix the latter to the wall;
7. return the removed panel to its place;
8. a lattice is attached outside.

It is advisable to use such a system in a bathroom located on the second floor. Usually, the SV of this room with the obligatory presence of a ventilation shaft is included in the project. Air inflow is carried out through the gap between the floor and the door, as well as through the vents.