How to make a drilling machine. Homemade drilling machine from a drill Machine from an old hand drill
Good afternoon everyone! In this review, I will show how I managed to make a small, simple drilling machine from a purchased drill stand and an existing, but rarely used, hand-held electric drill. I tried to make a complete and convenient device for amateur and household needs, without pretensions to professional use. As always, the review contains a description of the process, drawings, and the result obtained.
All previous years, for drilling holes, I got by with a screwdriver, and very rarely with a hand drill. This was quite enough; there were no problems on parts with a small thickness. Another issue is drilling clearly vertical holes in thick material; sometimes you can control the verticality of the drill, sometimes not so much.
Drilling a smaller hole with a larger diameter drill: often, when drilling, the original center of the hole could shift, depending on how the drill finds itself there.
To avoid all these problems, critical parts and workpieces must be drilled on a drilling machine, which naturally does not exist.
I have already reached the point where I need a drilling machine, but I don’t know exactly what I want from it, what parameters are important to me, and which one I should choose. Therefore, in order to gain experience and shape my future needs, for a better and more effective investment in a drilling machine in the future, I decided to practice homemade machine from the rack for hand drill.
I could just buy a stand, place the drill in it and use it, but I needed to make it easy to turn the drill on and off, as well as conveniently adjust the rotation speed. Therefore, I decided to make a small pedestal for the stand, with controls placed in it, as well as a box for drills and other accessories.
And at the very base of the rack I decided to make a wider table for placing and fixing workpieces for drilling. During the design process, we came up with this design (the stand and drill in the model are different, taken from 3D Warehouse):
The design of the box is as follows, with an organizer installed in it for frequently used drills:
Drawings with dimensions:
Having studied the Internet and reviews, we chose the already well-known stand for the Enkor 20090 drill with an all-metal column and a cast iron base and carriage. (Passport passport)
A few unboxing and assembly photos:
People in reviews write about play in the plastic guide of the carriage, and a small play at the column-carriage point, but not for everyone. I got a play in the plastic guide, which was cured simply by placing a piece of plastic from a paper folder. The play disappeared completely, the carriage began to move up and down with difficulty, but thick silicone grease eliminated this problem. The stand is excellent, heavy, monumental!
The working part of our machine was an old but vigorous drill Interskol DU13/780ER:
The drill fits tightly into the receiving socket on the stand, there is no play, the fixation is excellent:
We begin to assemble our pedestal with a box. We file the details of the pedestal. In the project, I laid plywood with a thickness of 10 mm, but it so happened that I had an already started sheet of 12 mm, which for some reason I mistook for 10 mm, because of this my dimensions were floating and for a long time I could not understand why):
We assemble using self-tapping screws and PVA:
We saw the parts of the internal drawer, the bottom of the drawer is made of 6mm plywood:
Assembling the box:
Prepare and glue the back and front plugs of the pedestal:
For the drawer we use furniture ball guides:
To attach the box to the hinges, I placed a sheet of plywood next to it and placed four 10-ruble coins to create an even gap between the box and the base of the pedestal:
We cut out and glue the front panel of the drawer onto PVA; we also adjust the gaps with coins:
Don't forget to make a handle to open the drawer:
As a filling for controlling on/off and adjusting the speed, I picked up this kit from the bins: a relay with a 230V coil, two buttons, with NO and NC contacts, and a triac speed controller (2000W) from Aliexpress:
On the front panel we mark the holes for the buttons and the regulator potentiometer:
We drill holes. I had to make a small recess under the potentiometer handle with a Dremel and a milling cutter, since the thickness front panel 6 mm, and the handle did not fit properly on the potentiometer shaft:
Let's try the buttons:
On the back plug of the button block I decided to install a socket for the drill plug, as well as a gland entry for the mains power cable:
We take the top cover of the pedestal, mark and drill holes for attaching the base of the stand (I did not glue the top cover of the pedestal, attached it only with self-tapping screws):
Let's move on to making the drilling table. We will make it from two sheets of plywood:
We connect two sheets with four self-tapping screws, mark and cut out a groove under the column of our rack with a jigsaw, and finish it with a Dremel:
Mark the rounding of the corners:
We mark, take the router and slot cutter f10mm along the plywood stop we make grooves for moving table clamps, as well as table roundings:
We disassemble our part, take the bottom sheet, mark and drill holes in it for attaching the table to the base of the stand:
On the reverse side, for fastening I used the following fasteners with an M8 thread to recess the caps and made indentations with a Dremel:
We take the top sheet of the table, mark it and cut out a 70x70 mm square hole for a replaceable insert. We place the insert offset relative to the center so that it can be turned over and all sides of the square of the insert can be used:
We glue both sheets of our table using PVA:
We are preparing clamps for the table. I made them from scraps of plywood, beveled the resulting heel a little to get a good grip on thin parts. The 8mm hole for the clamping bolt was slightly worked out in the longitudinal direction so that the bolt in the part could deviate relative to the vertical axis.
Let's try our clamp in action, using a long M8 furniture bolt, washers and a wing nut:
We take all the received machine parts, grind them and coat them with oil:
We install all the components of the power and control system, buttons and relays are connected according to a self-retaining circuit:
We check the inclusion, install everything and fix the wires:
We place rubberized legs at the bottom of the pedestal:
Fastening drill table to the base of the stand with M8 nuts:
We insert the box and see what has happened so far:
Let's move on to making an organizer for drills. All parts of the horizontal compartment of the organizer are made of 6mm plywood. We cut out the base according to the drawing, cut thin strips of plywood, and assemble the sides using PVA:
We saw 6mm wide dividers on the table (for such operations I had to make a zero-gap liner from aluminum on the sawing table, since the original surface of the table had already worn out and the plywood had become severely chipped):
We glue the separators using a 14 mm template using PVA. I took the depth and width (6x14 mm) of the compartment based on my fingers, so that I could easily take a small drill from the bottom of the compartment:
I decided to make a vertical organizer for the most common drills (two compartments for drills for metal and wood) from 12 mm plywood, but glue a strip of 6 mm plywood on top, since drilling into the end of the plywood is very difficult:
Let's try our vertical organizer against a horizontal one:
We mark and drill holes in the organizer on our table using all available drills, from 8mm to 1mm with a diameter increment of 1 mm:
Let's try both organizers in a drawer:
We coat the new parts with oil and put them in a box. We place the vertical organizer on small hinges so that it can be folded into a completely vertical position and have access to the drills in the lower compartment.
In front of the horizontal organizer, I glued a stop made of a piece of 6mm plywood in the box; after it, in the box a little later there will be an organizer for cutters, countersinks and other large drills. I also prepared several square replacement inserts:
We assemble all the parts of the machine, roll up and fasten the drill cable so that it does not interfere:
We work:
Drilling machine it turned out good. Drilling this way is much more convenient, and most importantly, more accurate and accurate. Of course, there is no speed control, it would be even more comfortable with it, but I’m already starting to get used to what speed should be set on the drill and the immersion force for the material, so as not to sag the drill, but also not to spoil the workpiece or part with high speeds. This is all worked out through experience. I’ll work on it, understand what I need and what’s important from the machine, what parameters will be critical for me, so that I can possibly consider an “adult” machine in the future.
My immediate plans are to make a small vice for vertical fastening of workpieces and a grinding drum for the machine; I need them for upcoming projects.
“From the material presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a budget drilling machine from an ordinary electric drill.
Every craftsman would like to have such a machine in his household, because in comparison with factory analogues it will cost tens of times less, and if all the spare parts and components are available, then it will be completely free.
The author of this machine is Igor Stasiuk, for which I thank him very much, I shared step by step photos assembling the machine with the people. The design is quite interesting and at the same time simple. Corners and 4 legs are welded onto a base made of a 3 mm sheet of metal, a 500 mm rod from a professional square pipe is welded onto this plate, the slider is made of 2 corners welded into a pipe and placed on the lifting column with a gap so that the slider can move upward along the column and down. Lifting mechanism it is activated by a cable stretched from the top point to the bottom, and on the slider the cable makes several turns.
So, let's take a closer look at what exactly the author needed to assemble the machine? And also the whole step-by-step process.
Materials
1. sheet metal 3 mm
2. fittings
3. corner
4. cable
5. drill
6. vice for workpieces
7. bolts, nuts, washers, engravers
8. drill clamp
9. paint
10. professional square pipe
11. drill
Tools
1. welding machine
2. grinder (angle grinder)
3. drill
4. file
5. vise
6. clamp
7. caliper
8. ruler
9. corner
10. level
11. sandpaper
12. brush
13. hacksaw for metal
14. emery
The process of creating a drilling machine from a drill.
And so, first of all, the author makes the base of the machine from 3 mm sheet metal, cuts the workpiece using a grinder (angle grinder), and welds 2 corners and 4 legs from a steel rod or fittings into the lower part. The length of the legs should be the same so that there is no distortion of the frame.
The corners and legs are welded on.
Making a slider! Take 2 corners and apply them to a professional square-section pipe that will serve as a lifting column and tighten them with a clamp.
It is tacked along the edges by welding in order to simply attach it for now, and only then specifically weld the normal seam.
This is actually how the preparation turned out.
The lifting column is made from professional square-section pipe 500 mm long.
A bracket with a movable shaft is welded onto the slider body, onto which the cable turns will be made.
IN drilled hole thread is cut.
The handles of the lifting mechanism are made of reinforcement.
There is a head on the shaft that will serve as the base for the handles.
And so, 3 handles are welded on for the convenience of raising and lowering the drill through the mechanism.
Installed on a lifting column.
A loop like this is made at the end of the cable.
I hope the lifting principle is clear and without explanation)
A square pipe is welded onto the corner.
This is actually the mount for the electric drill.
Then the drill is installed and secured with a clamp of bolts and nuts.
Now let's go back to the lifting mechanism again.
At the top of the lifting column, a nut is welded and a bolt is screwed into it, a cable is attached to the bolt itself, and when the bolt is tightened and unscrewed, the cable is tensioned to the optimal level.
It is advisable to pre-lubricate the moving parts with grease or lithol.
These small vises can be purchased at hardware store in the tools section.
All parts were sanded by the master using sandpaper and then painted.
The most common drilling machine can be considered the one made from an ordinary or electric drill. In such a machine, the drill can be placed either permanently or made removable. In the first case, the power button can be moved to the drilling machine for greater convenience; in the second, the drill can be removed and used as a separate tool.
Components for a homemade drilling machine:
- Drill;
- Base;
- Rack;
- Drill mount;
- Feeding mechanism.
The base (bed) for a homemade drilling machine can be made of hard wood, chipboard or furniture board, but it is better to use a channel, metal plate or brand. To ensure the stability of the structure and obtain a good result, the frame must be made massive so that it can compensate for vibration from drilling. The size for wooden satin is 600x600x30 mm, metal - 500x500x15 mm. There must be mounting holes on the base of the machine so that it can be mounted on a workbench.
The stand for the drilling machine can be made of timber, round or square steel pipe. You can also use an old frame of a photographic enlarger, an old school microscope or another device of a similar configuration that has a large mass and high strength.
The drill is secured using clamps or brackets. It is better to use a bracket with a central hole, this will allow you to achieve better results when drilling.
The device of the drill feed mechanism on the machine.
Using this mechanism the drill can move vertically along the stand, it can be:
- Spring;
- Articulated;
- Similar to a screw jack.
Depending on the chosen mechanism, you will need to make a stand.
Photo diagrams and drawings show the main types of designs of homemade drilling machines on which a drill is used.
A homemade machine made from a drill with a hinged, springless mechanism. 
Video instructions for creating a homemade drilling machine with your own hands.
Video instructions for creating a cheap drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. The bed and stand are made of wood, the mechanism is a furniture guide.
Step-by-step video instructions for making a drill press from an old car jack.
How to make a spring-lever stand for a drill on a homemade machine.
Step-by-step instructions for making a steel stand.
The steering rack from a car is a fairly massive device, so the frame for it must be massive and attached to the workbench. All connections on such a machine are made by welding.
The thickness of the base should be about 5 mm; it can be welded from channels. The drain on which the steering rack is attached should be 7–8 cm higher. It is attached through the eyes of the steering column.
Since such a homemade machine becomes massive, it is better to place the control unit separately from the drill.
Video of a homemade drilling machine based on a steering rack from a car.
The procedure for assembling such a homemade machine:
- Preparation of parts;
- Installing the stand on the frame;
- Assembling the moving device;
- Installing the device on a rack;
- Drill installation.
All joints must be securely fastened, preferably by welding. If guides are used, then you need to make sure that there is no transverse play. For greater convenience, such a machine can be equipped with a vice for fixing the workpiece for drilling.
In stores you can also find racks ready for drilling. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the dimensions of its frame and weight. Often inexpensive designs Only suitable for drilling thin plywood.
Homemade drilling machine based on an asynchronous motor.
You can replace a drill in a homemade machine with an asynchronous motor, for example from an old one washing machine. The manufacturing process for such a machine is complex, so it is better if it is done by a specialist with experience in turning and milling, and assembling electrical circuits.
Diagram and design of a machine based on a motor from household appliances.
Below are all the drawings, parts and their characteristics, and specifications.
A table of all the parts and materials needed to make the machine yourself.
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300×175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main stand | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and has an M12 thread cut into it |
| 4 | Spring | L = 100–120 mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | Lead screw | Tr16x2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Tr16x2 | |
| 9 | Drive console | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | |
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | Washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of drive pulleys for V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one stream to another |
| 15 | Electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Driven pulley block | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | |
| 18 | Return spring limit rod | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | |
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, from wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Split clamp | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | |
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Spindle head console | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | The drive V-belt has a “zero” profile, so the grooves of the pulley block also have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Network cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool chuck no. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head has its own base - a duralumin console and creates translational and rotational motion.
Drawing of a spindle head for a homemade drilling machine. Materials and parts necessary for the manufacture of the spindle head.
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Spindle | Steel circle Ø 12 mm |
| 2 | Running sleeve | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers-spacers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Bushing stopper | Special M6 screw with knurled button |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Stationary bushing | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm |
| 10 | Bearing | Radial thrust |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | End adapter sleeve | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
The connection depends on the motor itself.
How to make a drilling machine for printed circuit boards with your own hands.
To manufacture a drilling machine for printing circuit boards, a low-power device drive is required. As a lever, you can use a mechanism from a photo cutter or a soldering iron. Illumination of the drilling site can be done using an LED flashlight. In general, this machine is rich in the flight of creative thoughts.
You can drill a hole in any material without much effort by using a hand-held power tool, such as a drill, drill or screwdriver. Probably everyone has such a tool in their home workshop. But when the need arises for drilling large quantity, moreover, with great accuracy or at a certain angle, there is a need to use a drilling machine.
Drilling machines for home production can be bought in stores that sell similar equipment. Basically, this is equipment of joint production - Russia - China, for example, called Caliber, Zubr, Encore Corvette, there is a purely Chinese manufacturer. Their prices start from 7900 rubles. In principle, it’s not that expensive if you tweak the design a little, but the quality depends on how it turns out, sometimes you come across something good. There are many models produced in Switzerland - China; although they are more expensive, the reviews are good.
Drilling machine Caliber, previously produced in Moscow, power 400 W Joint production means that equipment developed by, say, Russia is produced by Chinese workers. At the same time, the name, design and quality of the machine are preserved.
On such a machine, with the help of devices, the drilling accuracy will be much higher; you can place the workpiece in a vice and drill at the desired angle; the number of holes will be produced per unit of time. In addition, if you need to drill holes with a diameter of, for example, 1.5 mm, you can’t do without a machine.
Making drilling machines with your own hands
If you buy a machine, then remake the stand, which in most machines is very thin and unreliable, and also constantly repair a failing spindle, it is much easier and more profitable to use a drill that you have and make a drilling machine from it yourself, using standard drawings and scheme . Of course, you shouldn’t use a hand drill, if you’re already making a machine, then it’s good and reliable, but if it’s not possible to use an electric drill, and you have a hand drill, you can use it too.
The main thing in such a machine is to firmly fasten the main stand - a pipe, on which there will be a structural support and a screw, which will be the running screw. The drill placed in the holder will move along it.
A machine made from a hand drill, which can be assembled entirely from wooden parts. Of the complex designs, we can only name a vernier scale installed with a special drum, but in extreme cases, you can do without this unit. An example of how such a simple homemade drilling machine is made with your own hands from a drill can be seen in the photo, where the author used a connecting rod to make a mount into which the drill will be attached. Also an original and at the same time simple solution for tensioning the cable.
General view of the machine 
Fastening the cable according to the principle of fastening the strings in a guitar To make a table and attach a drill, you can use rolled metal, preferably a rectangular pipe. Of course, this is less of a machine and more of an adapter for a drill, but it does its job well.
If the machine is small, rather a mini tabletop machine that will be used for minor works, you can make a structure for it from wood and plywood, as shown in the first diagram. During manufacturing, it must be taken into account that such components as a lever that regulates the feed of the drill and a spring that gives rigidity to the mechanism must be present in the design. If the drill is mounted for permanent use, it would be more convenient to remake the start button.
Basically, with your own hands, such drilling machines are made from drills into desktop ones, so you need to take care that the plate stands firmly and there are no distortions on it. In addition, if possible, it would be a good idea to mill out the grooves for the movement of the vice, so that along with drilling, small milling work could be carried out.
Using a powerful drill to make a drilling machine, manufacturing features
For milling in combination with drilling and for long-term drilling in metal with large diameter drills, make a drilling machine with your own hands from a drill that has high power and belongs to the class professional tools.
A powerful drill requires a more powerful stand The peculiarity of using such a drill is its weight and high vibration during operation. Due to the fact that it uses a slightly larger motor, all parts are made of metal, double insulation is usually used, the weight of the drill is higher than that of household drills. Therefore, the manufacture of such a stand should only be made of metal, in addition, the table should be more massive.
In this case there are a lot of factory parts, but for a powerful drill these parts are a godsend We also make the return spring more powerful, just as the cable on which the clamp works must be at least 4 mm in diameter. We also make the handles more powerful, using a rolled metal rod with a diameter of about 12 mm. For the frame, it is better to take rolled metal; it will be especially successful to use a square or rectangular pipe, perhaps 50 x 50 or 40 x 60. We take iron for the desktop at least 3 mm, welding is carried out taking into account right angle.
Making the base for the stand We assemble all parts by welding or using 10-12 mm bolts. The finished slab should look like this:
The base plate is finished, just needs to be painted Everything must be powerful enough.
Ready stand with drill holder 
Raising and lowering mechanism We take the sprocket and chain from an old car, you can find it at a scrap metal dump.
Watch a video on how to make a drilling machine from a powerful drill with your own hands:
Horizontally - a drilling machine made from a drill, made by yourself.
To drill a hole, for example, inside a long shaft, using a vertical drilling machine, even a purchased one, it will not be possible to do it efficiently, no matter how hard you try. Therefore, the idea of making a machine with horizontal feed will be very useful.
Let's look at an example of manufacturing such a machine. To begin with, we sketch a diagram and decide on the tools and materials for our homemade device.
An example of making a do-it-yourself stand for horizontal drilling You need to have either a circular saw or a sawing machine, a drill or a drill-screwdriver, hand tool, such as a chisel, hammer, various screwdrivers and similar tools.
If we make a device from wood, as in our case, we need to prepare a board, it is better to take pine and 12-15 mm plywood, a piece of chipboard. The bolts are standard, self-tapping screws, a bushing, you can take ready-made guides for furniture drawers, you can make them, a nut - an impeller, a handle, long bolts - these are like components.
You can try the following, more advanced option.
We assemble a frame from bars and chipboards, the width of the board is 20 cm, the length is about a meter. We make two guides that can be moved apart and fixed to a certain width using long fastening screws. For precision drilling draw a line running strictly along the continuation of the drill. The table can also be raised to the desired height using long screws. We make it from plywood and sand and polish it well before installation. The table is lifted by rotating the handle and, as it were, shifting the rectangular prisms with an oblique side towards each other. For better sliding on their sides, we stuff strips of laminate.
We install the drill in a special rack made of plywood or boards.
Mounting the drill in a horizontal position A very good assembly option can be seen in this video:
According to the last example, even if you have to tinker with it, the design will be very reliable, it will be able to withstand the minimum permissible deviations and, in theory, it should serve for a long time. Since such a machine will withstand vibration due to the position of the drill, the backlash in the connections will not increase.
Good afternoon everyone! In this review, I will show how I managed to make a small, simple drilling machine from a purchased drill stand and an existing, but rarely used, hand-held electric drill. I tried to make a complete and convenient device for amateur and household needs, without claims for professional use. As always, the review contains a description of the process, drawings, and the result obtained.
All previous years, for drilling holes, I got by with a screwdriver, and very rarely with a hand drill. This was quite enough; there were no problems on parts with a small thickness. Another issue is drilling clearly vertical holes in thick material; sometimes you can control the verticality of the drill, sometimes not so much.
Drilling a smaller hole with a larger diameter drill: often, when drilling, the original center of the hole could shift, depending on how the drill finds itself there.
To avoid all these problems, critical parts and workpieces must be drilled on a drilling machine, which naturally does not exist.
I have already reached the point where I need a drilling machine, but I don’t know exactly what I want from it, what parameters are important to me, and which one I should choose. Therefore, in order to gain experience and shape my future needs, for a better and more effective investment in a drilling machine in the future, I decided to practice on a homemade machine from a stand for a hand drill.
I could just buy a stand, place the drill in it and use it, but I needed to make it easy to turn the drill on and off, as well as conveniently adjust the rotation speed. Therefore, I decided to make a small pedestal for the stand, with controls placed in it, as well as a box for drills and other accessories.
And at the very base of the rack I decided to make a wider table for placing and fixing workpieces for drilling. During the design process, we came up with this design (the stand and drill in the model are different, taken from 3D Warehouse):
The design of the box is as follows, with an organizer installed in it for frequently used drills:
Drawings with dimensions:
Having studied the vastness of the Internet and reviews, a fairly well-known drill stand with an all-metal column and a cast iron base and carriage was chosen. ()
A few unboxing and assembly photos:
People in reviews write about play in the plastic guide of the carriage, and a small play at the column-carriage point, but not for everyone. I got a play in the plastic guide, which was cured simply by placing a piece of plastic from a paper folder. The play disappeared completely, the carriage began to move up and down with difficulty, but thick silicone grease eliminated this problem. The stand is excellent, heavy, monumental!
The working part of our machine was an old but vigorous drill Interskol DU13/780ER:
The drill fits tightly into the receiving socket on the stand, there is no play, the fixation is excellent:
We begin to assemble our pedestal with a box. We file the details of the pedestal. In the project, I laid plywood with a thickness of 10 mm, but it so happened that I had an already started sheet of 12 mm, which for some reason I mistook for 10 mm, because of this my dimensions were floating and for a long time I could not understand why):
We assemble using self-tapping screws and PVA:
We saw the parts of the internal drawer, the bottom of the drawer is made of 6mm plywood:
Assembling the box:
Prepare and glue the back and front plugs of the pedestal:
For the drawer we use furniture ball guides:
To attach the box to the hinges, I placed a sheet of plywood next to it and placed four 10-ruble coins to create an even gap between the box and the base of the pedestal:
We cut out and glue the front panel of the drawer onto PVA; we also adjust the gaps with coins:
Don't forget to make a handle to open the drawer:
As a filling for controlling on/off and adjusting the speed, I picked up this kit from the bins: a relay with a 230V coil, two buttons, with NO and NC contacts, and a triac speed controller (2000W) from Aliexpress:
On the front panel we mark the holes for the buttons and the regulator potentiometer:
We drill holes. I had to make a small recess under the potentiometer handle with a Dremel and a cutter, since the thickness of the front panel is 6 mm, and the handle did not fit properly onto the potentiometer shaft:
Let's try the buttons:
On the back plug of the button block I decided to install a socket for the drill plug, as well as a gland entry for the mains power cable:
We take the top cover of the pedestal, mark and drill holes for attaching the base of the stand (I did not glue the top cover of the pedestal, attached it only with self-tapping screws):
Let's move on to making the drilling table. We will make it from two sheets of plywood:
We connect two sheets with four self-tapping screws, mark and cut out a groove under the column of our rack with a jigsaw, and finish it with a Dremel:
Mark the rounding of the corners:
We mark, take a router and use a 10mm groove cutter along the plywood stop to make grooves for moving table clamps, as well as table roundings:
We disassemble our part, take the bottom sheet, mark and drill holes in it for attaching the table to the base of the stand:
On the reverse side, for fastening I used the following fasteners with an M8 thread to recess the caps and made indentations with a Dremel:
We take the top sheet of the table, mark it and cut out a 70x70 mm square hole for a replaceable insert. We place the insert offset relative to the center so that it can be turned over and all sides of the square of the insert can be used:
We glue both sheets of our table using PVA:
We are preparing clamps for the table. I made them from scraps of plywood, beveled the resulting heel a little to get a good grip on thin parts. The 8mm hole for the clamping bolt was slightly worked out in the longitudinal direction so that the bolt in the part could deviate relative to the vertical axis.
Let's try our clamp in action, using a long M8 furniture bolt, washers and a wing nut:
We take all the received machine parts, grind them and coat them with oil:
We install all the components of the power and control system, buttons and relays are connected according to a self-retaining circuit:
We check the inclusion, install everything and fix the wires:
We place rubberized legs at the bottom of the pedestal:
We fasten the drill table to the base of the stand with M8 nuts:
We insert the box and see what has happened so far:
Let's move on to making an organizer for drills. All parts of the horizontal compartment of the organizer are made of 6mm plywood. We cut out the base according to the drawing, cut thin strips of plywood, and assemble the sides using PVA:
We saw 6mm wide dividers on the table (for such operations I had to make a zero-gap liner from aluminum on the sawing table, since the original surface of the table had already worn out and the plywood had become severely chipped):
We glue the separators using a 14 mm template using PVA. I took the depth and width (6x14 mm) of the compartment based on my fingers, so that I could easily take a small drill from the bottom of the compartment:
I decided to make a vertical organizer for the most common drills (two compartments for drills for metal and wood) from 12 mm plywood, but glue a strip of 6 mm plywood on top, since drilling into the end of the plywood is very difficult:
Let's try our vertical organizer against a horizontal one:
We mark and drill holes in the organizer on our table using all available drills, from 8mm to 1mm with a diameter increment of 1 mm:
Let's try both organizers in a drawer:
We coat the new parts with oil and put them in a box. We place the vertical organizer on small hinges so that it can be folded into a completely vertical position and have access to the drills in the lower compartment.
In front of the horizontal organizer, I glued a stop made of a piece of 6mm plywood in the box; after it, in the box a little later there will be an organizer for cutters, countersinks and other large drills. I also prepared several square replacement inserts:
We assemble all the parts of the machine, roll up and fasten the drill cable so that it does not interfere:
We work:
The drilling machine turned out to be suitable. Drilling this way is much more convenient, and most importantly, more accurate and accurate. Of course, there is no speed control, it would be even more comfortable with it, but I’m already starting to get used to what speed should be set on the drill and the immersion force for the material, so as not to sag the drill, but also not to spoil the workpiece or part with high speeds. This is all worked out through experience. I’ll work on it, understand what I need and what’s important from the machine, what parameters will be critical for me, so that I can possibly consider an “adult” machine in the future.
My immediate plans are to make a small vice for vertical fastening of workpieces and a grinding drum for the machine; I need them for upcoming projects.
