How breeders develop new varieties. Where to start breeding a new grape variety. Caring for violets
Some winegrowers sleep and see how to bring out new variety, and what could be crossed to get a hybrid form that amazes the imagination in size, color and taste... I want to disappoint those who want to try on Michurin’s laurels. Selection is a long process.
If time doesn't scare you, be patient! You will need the following gentleman's set:
- at least five years to develop one variety;
- a decent piece of land;
- the ability to endure failures;
- get positive emotions from the lesson.
It is useful to familiarize yourself with professional literature. This could be a textbook on viticulture authored by Negrul, or “Genetics and selection grapevine» Ayvazyan P.K. and Dokuchaeva E.N.
You also need to turn your vineyard into an impregnable fortress, otherwise the fruits of your combinations may go to common thieves who will sell the bunches on the market, and you will lose all the results of your work. Such cases not only unsettle you, they leave a bitter aftertaste for a long time.
And you also need to set only feasible tasks. Breeding frost-resistant grapes from good characteristics Entire scientific institutes are engaged in this, and the results are still modest.
An amateur breeder cannot handle such tasks. The probability of obtaining a variety with frost resistance of -30...-32° C from offspring with frost resistance of -23...-25° C is the same as hitting the jackpot in the lottery. The same can be said about high disease resistance.
Despite these limitations, enthusiasts have a very wide range of activities. You can improve the color of the bunches, the shape of the berries, size, taste, structure, ripening time, growth vigor, yield, sex of the flower, seedlessness... So there is enough work.
Never cross pairs at random. Use the “duet” rule: if you plan to develop a large-berry variety with a given color of the bunches, then choose both parent forms with large berries with a given color. Use this rule when setting up a selection problem. The probability of obtaining a bisexual variety is different: when crossing bisexual varieties, the probability is 3 to 1. That is, three seedlings will be bisexual, and one will be unisexual. Previously, all same-sex forms were rejected. But if we did this now, then we would be left without Talisman, Flora, Flamingo, Victoria, Sofia, Gourmets... So don’t rush to reject hybrid forms, maybe they will have other advantages. In industrial breeding, out of a hundred seedlings, only one or two with the desired properties were selected, the rest were rejected. In amateur selection, 20-30 seedlings are considered sufficient.
And one last thing. It has been noted that the earlier the ripening period of the maternal form, the worse the germination of hybrid seeds. The lowest germination rate is for super early varieties - only 1-1.5%. And in maternal forms with early ripening - 10-25%. Seeds from late mother bushes have the best germination rate.
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Loading...According to violet lovers, these plants reproduce easily, so that, having an adult bush of varietal Saintpaulia, you can very soon grow dozens of young plants. In this case, vegetative methods are most often used, with the help of which it is possible to preserve all varietal characteristics.
Saintpaulias are propagated by leaf cuttings, dividing the bush and even flower stalks. When developing new varieties of violets, they are propagated by seeds.
In the article you will learn everything about propagating violets at home by leaf, cuttings, dividing the bush, etc. and about the subsequent care of indoor flowers.
Propagation of Saintpaulias by leaf cuttings
Let's look at how to propagate violets by cuttings. Leaf cuttings take root best in spring and summer. For rooting, choose a healthy violet leaf with a fairly long petiole (at least 4 cm in length).
You need to take leaves that are not young, but not old either. They should be large and without yellowness. Old and very young leaves usually die without taking root.
The leaf should be cut as close to the plant stem as possible. If part of the petiole still remains on the mother violet, it must be removed. Such a petiole can rot and destroy the entire plant.
The petiole of the cut leaf is cut diagonally so that the cut surface is as large as possible. After this, the leaf is rooted and planted in the ground. Leaf cuttings allow you to obtain a plant that completely corresponds to the mother. Only a few varieties lose their varietal characteristics when propagated by leaves.
Methods for rooting cuttings
Root leaf cuttings in water, soil or sphagnum. Rooting in water is the easiest way. Pour cooled boiled water into a glass and place the leaves there, petioles down. The temperature during rooting should be maintained from 20 to 24ºС. Under these conditions, roots should appear within 2 weeks.
You should not rush to plant rooted leaves in the ground. You can wait another 2-3 weeks until sprouts begin to appear on the petiole. Now the leaves can be planted in separate pots with Saintpaulia soil. There is no need to deepen them; they are planted no deeper than 10-15 mm. After planting, the rooted leaf blades are watered like adult plants.
Sometimes a freshly cut leaf is immediately planted in the ground. After this, it is watered as usual, without covering it with glass or a jar.
Roots and young leaves appear after 1-1.5 months. Rooting in the ground is associated with the risk of leaf rotting and this method is considered not very productive.
Rooting leaf cuttings in sphagnum gives good results.
They do not rot in this substrate, since sphagnum moss has bactericidal properties. You can use either dry soaked or live moss.
Rooting violets directly in the soil mixture
Very often, violet leaves are rooted directly in the soil. To do this, choose large and healthy leaves without defects or damage. It is not recommended to take limp, rotten or broken leaves, as they quickly disappear without taking root. The leaf stalk is shortened, leaving no more than 3 cm. The lower cut is made at an angle so that the area for root formation increases.
Root leaves in small plastic pots up to 5 cm wide. A drainage layer equal in thickness to 1/3 of the height of the pot is placed on the bottom. A moist substrate is poured on top for rooting. It consists of an earthen mixture for violets and perlite in equal parts.
The leaves are not buried deeply - no more than 2 cm. To ensure that the heavy leaf holds tightly and does not fall out of the soil, it is fixed with sticks or matches. To speed up rooting, place it under a glass jar or place it in a plastic bag along with the pot.
The temperature for rooting should be within 22-25ºС. Leaf lighting is diffused, at least 12 hours a day. As the substrate dries, it must be moistened, and the leaves must be opened and ventilated. In these conditions they take root much earlier than in water.
Propagation of Saintpaulia by part of a leaf
A violet can be grown not only from a whole leaf blade, but even from a fragment of a leaf. To do this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting material. The leaf is cut in half and the central vein is removed. Then it is cut into fragments that have at least one vein.
The planting material is dried for 15-20 minutes to allow the sections to dry. Then the leaf fragments are planted on the ground. They should not be buried. The pieces that take root best are those that are not buried, but simply in close contact with moist soil. Sticks are used to fix them.
The planted parts of the leaf are covered with glass jars. The substrate is moistened as it dries.
The temperature for rooting is maintained at least 22ºС. Under these conditions, you can get a lot of young plants from one leaf, since a baby grows from each vein.
Practice shows that leaf pieces take root best not in the soil mixture, but in pure sphagnum moss. This material is very moisture-absorbing and has bactericidal properties. When rooted in it, planting material rarely rots, takes root well and forms children.
Only experienced gardeners propagate violets using leaf fragments, since any mistake leads to rotting or drying out. planting material. But sometimes this method of reproduction is the only possible one.
This happens when the valuable violet leaf begins to disappear. Then all its diseased parts are removed, the leaf is cut into fragments and they are rooted.
Dividing a violet bush
All varieties of violets are propagated in this way, even those that lose their varietal characteristics when propagated by leaves. This is how Saintpaulia chimeras are usually propagated. When grown from leaf cuttings, young plants often lose their unique coloring.
Dividing the bush can be done when replanting a very overgrown plant with many shoots in the spring.
Separate the shoots that grow from the base of the bush and already have their roots. Such rosettes are carefully cut off so that a sufficient number of roots are separated from them.
When propagated by peduncles, the varietal characteristics of violets are preserved. This method also makes it possible to propagate all varieties of indoor violets while maintaining their varietal characteristics. Choose a peduncle that has recently faded or together with flowers so that it has small leaves.The peduncle is cut above the leaf and below by 1.5-2 cm. Then it is rooted in water or in sphagnum and planted in the ground to such a depth that the leaf is on the surface.
Sowing Saintpaulia seeds
Varietal seeds of indoor violets can be purchased at flower shops or garden centers. Sometimes you can get them at home.
During flowering, violet flowers can be pollinated, and sometimes they themselves are pollinated if pollen from a neighboring flower falls on the pistil. After this, a box with seeds is formed, but the seeds ripen within 6 months, and in some cases even longer.
Before growing violets from seeds, you need to prepare everything you need for seedlings. Violet seeds are very small, each box contains from 100 to 300 pieces.
Seeds are sown in late March or early April. They are not covered with soil, but only pressed to the ground. Water with a moisture sprayer.
The temperature during germination must be maintained at least 22ºС. The container is covered with glass, but is regularly ventilated to avoid the growth of fungi. Under such conditions, seeds germinate within 2 weeks.
Seedlings dive 3 times as they grow. During the third picking, they are planted in separate pots. Propagating violets by seeds is not an easy task.
Soil for violets
The substrate for violets should be nutritious and at the same time loose and breathable. You should also take care of the sterility of the soil mixture, since violets are susceptible to various fungal infections and rot easily.
Soil for violets is sold in flower shops in an assortment. Each manufacturer of soil mixtures provides customers with substrates for these popular indoor plants. To sterilize purchased soils, heating or freezing at low temperatures is used.
It is difficult to prepare soil for violets yourself. But if you really want it, you can try it. The soil for violets should contain:
- Leafy ground from under birch or linden - 2 parts;
- High-fiber coarse peat – 1 part.
Humus is added to the resulting mixture - 1/10 of the total volume.
Perlite and vermiculite are used to loosen the soil. They are mixed in equal parts and 1-2 cups are added to 1 bucket of soil mixture.
Ready soil for violets must be steamed. This procedure destroys pest eggs, harmful bacteria and fungi.
Caring for violets after propagation
Violet babies appear at the base of the leaf stalk. If the leaf was rooted in the ground and was covered with a glass jar on top, it is gradually opened. While the children are too small, they are not touched, but only moisten the soil as it dries. Young plants need diffused light; the sun's rays can burn them.
As soon as the young rosettes reach a diameter of 5 cm, they are planted in separate pots.
By this time, the rooted old leaf has already dried out. For miniature varieties the diameter of the rosette for transplantation can be 2-3 cm. Children ready for transplantation should have 2-3 pairs of leaves. If there are fewer of them, there is a high probability that the young plant still has very weak root system.
When replanting, you need to prepare several plastic pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. Drainage is placed at the bottom, and 1-2 cm of soil for violets is poured on top. Young rosettes are removed from the pot and carefully separated. Each child should have well-developed roots. They are planted in new pot, sprinkling the roots with soil on top. The soil in the pot is compacted a little.
If some children have very weak roots, they are also planted in new pots and covered with glass jars on top. In conditions of high humidity, young rosettes quickly take root. When they start to grow, the cans can be removed. If the leaf produces only one baby, it is transplanted into a larger pot by transferring it.
After transplanting, young rosettes need to be watered. Then they need to be cared for like adult plants. After the violet grows 5-6 large adult leaves, the old small leaves can be carefully trimmed.
For the first 2-3 months after transplantation, the rosettes are not fed. Then you should start fertilizing with liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Typically, young violets, rooted in late spring, begin to bloom in early autumn.
Now you know how to propagate violets at home correctly. You can read about basic care for Saintpaulias here.
dom-florista.ru
How to breed new varieties of violets yourself
How to breed new varieties of violets to please a girl on her birthday) Anyone who has already done this or who knows who has done this, please post photos in the comments)
The work of a breeder to develop a new variety of violets requires enormous patience, experience and knowledge. The process of how to develop a new variety of violet has been described and studied for more than one millennium. Its principle is based on the repeated process of crossing different varieties of violets and requires years of painstaking work. To develop a new variety of violets, you must first acquire a solid basic knowledge of growing different varieties of violets and be able to grow healthy flowers of various varieties. Then you need to learn how to pollinate them correctly. To properly pollinate a violet flower, you need to apply pollen to the pistil, which is borrowed from the yellow anthers of the plant. The anther is opened in advance using a sterile needle. Pollen is ready for pollination after ripening, 5-6 days after the flower opens. After maturation, it remains active for three months. The ripening of the pistil can be determined by the characteristic droplet of liquid protruding, thanks to which the pollen is well attached to the surface of the pistil. After pollination, the amniotic ovary begins to form a capsule, in which, as they ripen, small, dust-like seeds are formed that have dark brown color. After 5-7 months, when the seeds reach their maturity, the stem will wither and the capsule can be easily separated from the plant. The ripe capsule must be removed from the plant, dried for several days and opened with a needle. The seeds are placed in paper bags and stored in a dry and dark place. Seeds can be sown 2-3 weeks after ripening, although depending on the variety, they can remain viable for six months or more. Transferring the characteristics of parental pairs to a new species of violet is extremely difficult. For example, if you cross a purple and pink violet, you can produce offspring with blue and purple shades colors. If you cross a violet with simple flowers and a double one, the probability of getting offspring with simple flowers is extremely high. Over the course of repeated pollination, it is possible to develop new, previously uncreated varieties. But it will take time to grow a new variety, more than one year.
Well, perhaps for a girl’s 50th birthday... It’s VERY DIFFICULT AND VERY LONG. If your girl loves violets and collects them, then go to any website dedicated to the trade of varietal violets and order planting material for cool varietal violets, receive them in the mail and hand them to the girl. You can open the catalog and ask the girl to choose the violets that she liked. The main thing here is to stop in time...
This is a very long and painstaking task, if you start now, maybe in five years you will delight her with a new variety. But this is if you are already an experienced gardener and growing violets from seeds is not a problem for you.
Buy it ready-made at the exhibition. I think your girlfriend will be happy with any violet if there is none in her collection
indoor-plants-tips.ru
How violets reproduce at home - K-dou18.ru
Also, during the formation of buds, you can fertilize with fertilizer containing phosphorus, and for young plants - with big amount nitrogen. Fertilizer for violets can be used no more than once a month, alternating between different types.
For good growth Only one plant can “live” in a pot, so when growing, excess rosettes must be planted, but with care so as not to touch the roots. This makes it possible to get another plant without spending extra money.
There are several ways in which the Uzambara violet propagates. Care at home will make it quite easy to prepare planting material for its propagation and even growing new varieties:
- pieces of leaves;
- sockets or stepsons;
- seeds (the longest process).
- in water, where a small piece of the stem of a leaf is dropped, root germination usually takes 10-14 days (water must be added little by little, maintaining the same level);
- in special soil (peat mixture) at a depth sufficient to hold the leaf in a standing position at a slight angle, while the most important point is to maintain the microclimate above the surface of the earth using a plastic bag, jar or cut piece plastic bottle, the soil must be maintained with sufficient moisture; the mini-greenhouse is removed after the cuttings have rooted.
- Blue mist - soft blue fluffy balls with wavy edges.
- Blue Danube - has many blue flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
- Blue dragon - pale blue stars with a blue center, a wide red border with a white-golden edge, flower size up to 6 cm.
- Blue Lagoon is a bright blue violet with a blue spot and a red ruffle around the edge.
- Fusarium (rosette rotting) - the causative agent is the Fusarium fungus, which penetrates into young roots under improper conditions (heavy soil, regular overflow of water, especially cold water, a very large pot). As a result of the disease, the petioles of the leaves turn brown and begin to fall off. To prevent the appearance of this fungus, it is recommended to water the plant once every 2 months with a solution of foundationazole. To treat violets, they should be treated with fungicides, after removing dried or rotten stems and leaves.
- Powdery mildew - manifests itself in the form of a whitish coating on all surface parts, spreads with insufficient lighting, improper humidity, dust or dirt in the air. The cause may also be a deficiency (potassium and phosphorus) or an excess of trace elements (nitrogen). For treatment, you can use spraying with foundationazole or benlate (usually 1 time is enough, but can be repeated if necessary). So as not to get sick powdery mildew Uzambara violet, caring for it at home should be as follows: for prevention, wipe the leaves with wet wipes, ventilate the room and prevent excess moisture in the pot;
- Late blight is rotting of the root collar of a violet and the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which is caused by a fungus penetrating through the roots or wounds on the stems. The danger of late blight is that fungal spores settle in the soil, and therefore the only way out is to destroy the plant and sterilize the pot. To prevent the occurrence of this unpleasant disease, you should add superphosphate to the soil and keep the humidity in the room no higher than 60%;
- Gray rot, which is caused by the fungus botrytis, manifests itself as a gray-brown coating on all upper parts of the plant, and then rotting and death of the violet. The fungus often gets in with contaminated soil, so before planting each plant, it is recommended to freeze the soil in the freezer and then water it with a manganese solution. All diseased parts of the violet must be destroyed and the plant treated with fungicides. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to avoid excessive watering and sudden changes in room temperature.
- scale insects - attack leaves and young peduncles, deforming them and causing the appearance of red spots; Treatment with Actellik or Fitoverm helps against them;
- aphids are usually brought into the house from fresh flowers, insects eat flower buds, using the plant juice as food; to get rid of aphids, you need to use “Moskpilan” or “Aktellik”;
- mites (several types) - spoil young leaves; to combat them, plants are treated with Akarin, Fitoverm, etc.
- We pinch off a leaf with a cutting from a bush at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the petiole should be no more than 4 cm.
- . Let the cut area dry for 15 minutes.
- Best for rooting in water way will fit dark glass container. You can take medicine bottles. Little water is needed. Pour the liquid to a level no more than 1.5 cm from the bottom of the container.
- We create greenhouse conditions for the leaf by covering it plastic container.
The optimal time for this is spring and summer, because in winter the plant is dormant and requires specific conditions for care.
Propagation by cuttings (leaves)
The easiest way to grow many plants of the Uzambara violet species at home is propagation by cuttings. For this, the largest leaves are used, which must be cut with a very sharp knife at a slight angle (so as not to crush the stem).
There are 2 ways to root leaves:
Reproduction by rosettes
When an adult violet has already grown well, daughter rosettes (stepchildren) begin to appear next to it, which will also help propagate this plant. To plant the rosette, you need to wait until it grows to at least 5 cm in height. After this, it is very carefully separated from the main stem, trying not to harm the roots.
It is better to plant in the same soil; after rooting, within a month the violet will produce fresh young leaves and the formation of buds will begin.
Varieties and varieties of Saintpaulia
Varieties of Uzambara violets include a great variety of different colors and leaf shapes, which were specially bred by professional biologists or even by amateurs completely by accident. Moreover, when propagated by cuttings, any gardener can grow a completely new variety (degenerate varieties).
Saintpaulia varieties are divided into several groups according to the size of the rosette, the variety of flowers and the shape of the leaves.
Thus, varieties with a uniform color or with a border naturally inherit the traits of their parents with the leaf method of propagation, and the border can appear only during the second flowering.
Fantasy species (decorated with spots, stripes, dots) are recommended to be propagated by peduncles or with the help of stepsons, then they will inherit this color. “Chimera” violets, which have a pattern on the flowers in the form of rays, are also propagated in the same way.
Ampel varieties, having a long stem and growing at several points, are distinguished by a large number of flowers and many rosettes.
Varieties like Osa are one of the new and original types violets, in which the flower has 2 short upper petals and 3 lower, longer and narrower petals, forming an exotic appearance.
One of the currently popular varieties is the blue violet, bred in Russia. It has large, up to 10 cm, bright blue flowers, and the plant itself is highly branched and up to 40 cm high. There are several such varieties of violets with different flower shapes:
Diseases and treatment of Saintpaulia
Violets are very fastidious plants that require certain air and soil humidity, a lot of light, but not direct sunlight, certain care and feeding. But even when all these conditions are met, it happens that the plant gets sick.
The main task in such a situation is to learn to determine the cause of the disease and distinguish between infectious diseases of Uzambara violet and non-infectious ones, i.e. caused by a lack of some useful substances or improper conditions of detention.
One of the common problems is yellowing of the leaves of the plant, most often caused by improper soil acidity, too much sun or strong shade.
Infectious diseases violets:
Pests of violets
The most common pests that attack Saintpaulias are:
Usambara violet, or Saintpaulia - very beautiful and varied in colors and varieties ornamental plant, which is successfully grown on windowsills by many amateurs and professionals of decorative floriculture.
Propagation of violets by leaf
Violet is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant, which has more than five hundred varieties, differing in color, shape and size of leaves and flowers. As it blossoms in early spring, then its flowering seems to mark the end of winter. It is believed that the birthplace of violets is Australia.
Violet: care and propagation at home
This flower can be grown in a greenhouse or at home. The violet reaches a height of 30 cm and is characterized by active growth.
Caring for flowers is quite simple and does not take away large quantity time. Violets love good lighting, but should not be placed in direct sunlight. The best side for growing will be the north, in extreme cases - the east or west.
In order to ensure uniform growth and development of the violet on all sides, it is periodically necessary to turn it in different directions in relation to the light.
It is advisable to add coarse sand and peat moss to the soil with the pot. Is it necessary to prepare the drainage in advance so that it takes up at least? pot.
Violet loves water, so the soil in the pot should be constantly moist. However, you should not pour too much water, otherwise the roots may begin to rot.
Violets need to be replanted once a year. However, you should not take a larger pot. It is enough to change the soil and plant the plant in the same pot.
How to propagate violets using leaves?
Violets are propagated by leaves or their fragments, that is, part of a leaf. Rooting of the leaf can be done in water or soil.
Rooting a whole leaf in water
Rooting a whole leaf in the ground
Rooting a leaf fragment in water or soil
If you use “tight” varieties of violets during the growing process, then children may appear no earlier than four to six months from the moment of planting. In this case, you can stimulate faster growth of children if you deliberately damage the leaf plate. Using a sharp knife, cut off one third or one quarter of the leaf. The cut can be made obliquely, cutting out a triangle along the veins, or in a straight line, as shown in the photo below.
The technique for planting part of a leaf is the same as for the whole.
If you follow the rules for caring for and propagating violets at home, you will be delighted with luxurious caps of beautiful flowers.
Propagation of violets at home
There are several ways to propagate indoor violets and they cannot be unambiguously called simple or complex, just like the process of their propagation in general. Violets are whimsical and delicate plants, but those who have been growing them for a long time confidently claim that with experience it becomes absolutely simple. We will tell you further what the subtleties are, what the features are, and which method gives the greatest probability of rooting a new plant.
There are vegetative methods of propagation: by leaf, whole or part thereof and peduncle, or by sowing seeds. Each has its own pros and cons, so that everyone understands how it will be easier for him, we will describe each method in detail.
Violet propagation by leaf
Propagation of violets by dividing a leaf or a whole leaf is the most common and in a simple way. Everything here is primitive and simple: a healthy leaf is cut or carefully torn off from the mother plant and planted in the ground. You can wait for the roots to grow in water and only after that, knowing for sure that the roots are already there, plant them in the ground. This is individual for everyone. For germination, the store selects special soil for violets (may also be called “for Saintpaulia”). If germination took place in water, then the rooted cuttings are planted in the soil with great care, since the root is very fragile and sensitive.
If it is not possible to root a whole leaf, or you want to get several rosettes from one leaf, then there are options for dividing the leaf. The upper part is cut off from it, but not horizontally, but along the veins (a triangle is cut off) and this part is planted to form rosettes.
You can divide the entire leaf into several segments according to the veins and plant them all in a kind of greenhouse, then much more borings will be created. This, of course, is somewhat of a jewelry job that requires accuracy, skills and a very sharp tool (the use of which also requires accuracy and skill), but if you really want to, it’s worth a try. The first time may not work out, but with each subsequent time everything will become much easier.
It is worth noting that not all violets undergo this method of reproduction. The widespread and beloved “violetcomanamas” of Saintpaulia reproduce very well with this method, but it is not suitable for chimeras; varietal characteristics are not transmitted when the leaves are separated.
Propagation of violets by peduncles
We immediately warn you that not all peduncles are suitable for propagation, so you should first carefully examine them, and then decide whether to use them in this way, or cut off the leaf. So, if there are small leaves on the peduncle slightly below the flowers, then it can become the basis for new violet.
Here again, there are two options: you can simply bend such a peduncle to the ground, giving it the opportunity to grow roots, or carefully cut it off and root it like a leaf. When choosing an option, you should be guided by how the peduncle is located and whether bending will injure the plant.
During reproduction, therefore, varietal characteristics are always transmitted, which is a plus, but there are two minuses. Firstly, flower stalks with leaves are rare, and secondly, not everyone wants to deprive their beauty of its main decoration - flowers.
Propagation of violets by seeds
Propagation of violets by seeds is also practiced, but not too often, and there are two good reasons for this. The first is that this process is long, painstaking and unreliable, and the second is that when sowing seeds, the original variety of the plant is not preserved, that is, the violet multiplies, but not the same one. The method is used mainly for breeding new varieties.
The method of sowing seeds, as you can already understand, is used by breeders. To prepare enthusiasts for future results, we note that no more than 1-3% of newly bred plants will continue to grow after the first flowering, all the rest will become unusable and discarded. In addition, sprouted sprouts will require constant supervision, control and care, so at home this method is not considered appropriate or even realistic, so we recommend choosing any method of vegetative propagation of violets.
Vegetative propagation of violets
The article provided two options for vegetative propagation of violets: a peduncle and a leaf or part of it. They are used most often and give good results. There is a third option - propagation by side rosettes, children.
Children grow up quite often. This may be caused by injury to the plant, removal of a mature plant stem, or may be a species characteristic. The babies can grow in the axils of the leaves or on the stem, but either way they are quite easy to separate. Separation of the children is generally recommended so that they do not interfere with the development and growth of the main plant. The clear advantage of this method of reproduction is the absolute repetition of species characteristics and simplicity, especially since the children take root quite quickly.
How to grow a violet from a leaf, video
And finally, a useful video on growing violets from leaves.
How to propagate violets by leaf at home?
Violet propagation by leaf at home is possible. However, there are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account. There are certain requirements for choosing a seedling, and there are also rules for its primary processing. In order for a leaf to begin to take root, it must be properly planted in soil or water. In the first case, we must not forget about the watering regime so that the plant will soon take root, and about the harm that bacteria can cause to seedlings.
Propagation of violets by leaves takes place in several stages. They consist of:
Best time The year for plant propagation by leaves is spring and summer, since during this period there is enough light and heat. But if propagating a plant with leaves is the only way to save a rare variety, then an experienced gardener will be able to carry out his plans during the rest of the year. To do this, greenhouse conditions should be created. The temperature in the room should be at +22…+26 °C, air humidity is considered optimal at 50–60%.
Before you start replanting a plant, you need to study the planting material. Choose juicy, dark green leaves without defects. Tips for choosing material for flower transplantation:
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How to propagate violet leaves at home
Uzambara violets are attractive for home keeping due to their long flowering, variety of varieties, unpretentiousness and the possibility of easy propagation. These flowers do not need much space on the windowsill; sometimes they are even kept on racks next to the window, illuminated by fluorescent lamps. Saintpaulia is considered a symbol home comfort, they are in almost every apartment. Let's talk about how you can propagate these delicate plants using just one leaf.
Description of Uzambara violet (photo)
Violet belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. This plant was first discovered in East Africa. Saintpaulia is classified as an herbaceous plant with a very short stem and a bushy rosette of leaves. The leaves are most often heart-shaped, they can be rounded and more elongated. The upper side of the leaf is pubescent and its color can be different shades of green. The lower part of the leaves is lighter, greenish or purple. The leaves look quilted due to the pronounced veins.
From 3 to 7 medium-sized flowers are formed on one peduncle. When an adult rosette is in full bloom, up to 100 flowers can be present on a violet at the same time. At good conditions Saintpaulias bloom continuously for 8-9 months a year. Currently, almost 1,200 new hybrid varieties are registered. Their difference can be seen both in the size of the leaf rosette and in the shape and color of the flowers.
Violets with simple, semi-double and double inflorescences have been bred. Chimera violets are becoming increasingly popular. Their gene structure is changed in such a way that the synthesis of pigments occurs differently in different parts of the petals and the color turns out to be very unusual. Unfortunately, the varietal characteristics of such plants are lost during leaf propagation, being preserved only in the stepchildren.
Propagation of violets by leaves correctly (step by step)
The ability to root is greatly influenced by the quality of planting material. If you decide to propagate a violet with a leaf, choose it from the middle layers of the leaf rosette. The lower old leaves are already weaker and have less vitality. Their proximity to the ground increases the risk of pathogenic microflora and fungal spores being found on them. And if you cut a leaf from the crown of the rosette, it is easy to damage the growing point, in which case the plant will stop developing.
On a note! The leaf selected for propagation must be fully formed, have good turgor and sufficient size.
If you received a leaf received by mail or brought by your friends, which has become slightly limp, soaking it in warm boiled water with the addition of a few crystals of potassium permanganate will help. It is advisable to keep it in the solution for about 2 hours, this will restore elasticity and at the same time kill pathogenic flora.
After this, the sheet must be blotted with a napkin and the edge of the cutting must be cut with a sharp knife so that its length is 3-4 cm. The cut can be made either straight or at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, they begin the rooting process, which can be done in two ways: in water and in substrate.
Rooting in water
The “water” method is more suitable for inexperienced gardeners, since with this method of rooting it is easy to observe the process of root growth and the condition of the cutting. It is advisable to use boiled or filtered water so that it does not spoil quickly. It is better to use dishes made of dark glass. To root in water you need:
- Thoroughly wash and rinse the glass with boiling water. leaf cuttings and fill it with water.
- Place the leaf in a container so that the lower part of the petiole is immersed in water by 1-2 cm. You can hold it in the required position using a lid or a piece of thick paper with a hole. The stem should not touch the walls of the glass.
- Throw an activated carbon tablet or small charcoal into the water to prevent rotting processes.
- After this, monitor the water level, constantly adding it to the original level.
- When the roots reach a length of 1-2 cm, plant the violet leaf in the substrate.
If the process goes as it should, the appearance of roots can be seen in 2-4 weeks. Sometimes it happens that the end of the leaf petiole still rots. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the affected tissue to a healthy place and put the leaf back in the cup for rooting. In this case, the dishes are treated with an antiseptic, and then fresh water is poured in.
Attention! Some violet lovers, using the “water” rooting method, leave the leaf in water until a young rosette appears. We do not recommend doing this, as in this case the shoots may be weakened, which will impair their further development.
When planting a leaf with roots in the soil, keep in mind that you cannot deepen it too much, otherwise it will be more difficult for the rosette to break through to the top. The pot for planting is filled 1/3 with expanded clay, on top of which a loose soil mixture is laid. The planted leaf is covered with a glass jar, having previously moistened the substrate. The jar is raised daily for 5-10 minutes for ventilation, this is necessary. Remove the cover after 2-3 weeks when a young rosette appears.
How to propagate violet leaves in water: video
Rooting in the substrate
If the leaf cuttings are planted directly into the ground, rooting will occur even faster than in water. It is better to resort to this method if the leaf is not quite mature or, on the contrary, is old and has lost its turgor. When planting in the ground, the leaf petiole is cut a little shorter, to 1.5 centimeters. It is enough to take a very small pot, 5 cm in diameter. It must have a drainage hole. A drainage layer is poured onto the bottom, and then soil consisting of fertile soil and perlite. Perlite will help retain moisture in a small volume of soil and at the same time facilitate air access to the roots.
Helpful advice! For an antibacterial effect, you can add sphagnum to the substrate.
- Before planting, the substrate should be slightly moistened.
- Leaf cuttings of miniature hybrids are buried to a depth of 0.5 cm, while standard cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
- If you have a lot of planting material, you can plant several leaves at once in one cup.
- In order not to get confused in the varieties, markings are stuck on the outside.
- After planting, cover the leaf with film or a jar, creating a greenhouse. This will provide inside high humidity air and protect the seedling from drafts. Periodically moisten the soil and ventilate.
Some gardeners share their experience of planting leaf cuttings in peat tablets. They claim that, due to the availability of nutrients, with this method of planting, roots and young rosettes are formed very quickly. For successful rooting in the substrate, warmth and light are important. Daylight should be at least 12 hours, and the room temperature should be 22-26 degrees.
Rooting a violet leaf cutting in a substrate: video
Caring for violets
In order for violets to remain healthy and bloom for a long time, they need to create comfortable conditions, providing the necessary temperature, lighting, humidity, and timely feeding and replanting. Let's dwell on these important points.
Temperature and lighting
Violets are thermophilic. The minimum temperature of their maintenance should not fall below 18 degrees, the optimal indicators are 20-24 degrees Celsius. Plants must be protected from drafts. If the window sills are too cold in winter, place pots of violets on insulated stands to keep the roots cool.
Saintpaulias need bright and diffused lighting, without direct sunlight. In summer, it is better to place them on northern and eastern windows, and in winter, move them to southern and western window sills. On very sunny days, it is necessary to organize shading on the windows; in winter, the plants, on the contrary, receive additional light. To prevent the socket from bending, it is periodically turned to the light with the other side. You can grow violets under completely artificial lighting, this does not affect their growth in any way. Fluorescent lamps are quite suitable for this.
Humidity and watering
Violets do not like dry air. Flowers especially suffer from it during the period when the central heating is on. However, you cannot spray the leaves because they are pubescent. The villi can retain water, and as a result, rot will develop on the leaves. To humidify the air, it is advisable to use special humidifiers or place containers of water on the windowsill.
You can water violets from above using a syringe or watering can with a narrow spout; this type of watering is called drip watering. In this case, you need to be careful with the amount of water and make sure that it does not fall on the leaves. If it is difficult for you to regulate watering in this way, water the Saintpaulia through a tray.
Clean, settled water is poured there, the soil is allowed to soak in moisture, after which the remaining water is drained. This method is considered safer in terms of waterlogging. Some use wick irrigation, but it is not suitable for all varieties and has a number of disadvantages. This method is best used when necessary, for example, while going on vacation or a business trip.
Feeding and transplanting
For feeding, you can use superphosphate granules, which are placed in the soil when transplanting. This supply will last the violets for some time. After 1-2 months, you can begin to apply complex and organic fertilizers weekly, alternating them with each other. Only adult and healthy specimens assimilate organic matter well. The complex fertilizer is diluted in water according to the instructions and the solution is watered onto the moistened soil.
You should not plant violets in large pots, otherwise you may not wait for flowering. The new pot should be 2 cm larger in diameter than the old one. It would be better if it was made of plastic. You can plant the violet in the same container. In this case, they take it out of the pot, cut off the old and dead roots, shake off the old soil, and then plant the flower in place, adding a little fresh soil. It is better to rinse the inside of the pot well with a brush to disinfect it and remove fungal spores.
As a soil, you can take special soil for Saintpaulias, adding a little perlite and vermiculite to it.
Before planting, it is necessary to place a drainage layer of expanded clay on the bottom. The soil should be moist, but not soggy. Plant the plant so that the leaf rosette does not touch the ground. The first watering is carried out two days after transplantation.
Flower growers advise starting to breed violets with simpler varieties; capricious hybrids require experience in maintenance. If you provide the plant with ideal conditions, it will not create any problems for you. As you gain experience, you will do everything less mistakes, learn to “understand” your flower. After this, it will be possible to begin to contain and propagate more exotic varieties.
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We will tell you how to cross two varieties of the same plant species with each other - this method is called hybridization. Let these be plants of different colors or different shapes of petals and leaves. Or perhaps they will differ in terms of flowering or requirements for external conditions?
Choose plants that bloom quickly to speed up the experiment. It is also better to start by choosing unpretentious flowers - for example, foxgloves, calendulas or delphiniums.
Progress of the experiment and observation diary
First, formulate your goals - what you want to get from the experiment. What desirable traits should new varieties have?
Keep a notebook-diary where you write down your goals and record the progress of the experiment from beginning to end.
Be sure to describe in detail the original plants and then the resulting hybrids. Here are the most important point: plant health, growth rate, size, color, aroma, flowering time.
Flower structure
In our article, we will use a flower as an example; you can see it in the diagram and in the photographs.
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The appearance of flowers can vary significantly from plant to plant, but is generally the same.
Pollination of a flower
1. Start by choosing two plants. There will be one pollinator, and the other - seed plant. Choose healthy and vigorous plants.
2. Keep a close eye on the seed plant. Select an unopened bud with which you will carry out all the manipulations, and mark it. Moreover, it will have to isolate before opening– tying it in a light linen bag. As soon as the flower begins to open, cut off all the stamens to prevent accidental pollination.
3. Once the flower of the seed plant has fully opened, transfer pollen to it from a pollinating plant. Pollen can be transferred using a cotton swab, a brush, or by tearing out the stamens of a pollinating flower and bringing them directly to the seed. Apply pollen to the stigma of the flower of a seed plant.
4.Put on the flower of the seed plant linen bag. Don’t forget to make the necessary notes in your observation diary about the time of pollination.
5. To be on the safe side, repeat the pollination operation after some time - for example, after a couple of days (depending on the timing of flowering).
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Choose two flowers - one will serve as a pollinator, the other will become a seed plant. |
As soon as the flower of the seed plant opens, cut off all its stamens. |
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Apply pollen taken from a pollinating flower to the pistil of a seed plant flower. |
A pollinated flower must be marked. |
Obtaining hybrids
1. If pollination was successful, then soon the flower will begin to fade, and the ovary will increase. Do not remove the bag from the plant until the seeds are ripe.
2. Plant the resulting seeds as seedlings. When will you receive it? young hybrid plants, then give them a separate place in the garden or transplant them into boxes.
3. Now wait for the hybrids to bloom. Don't forget to write down all your observations in your diary. Among the first, and even the second generation, there may be flowers that exactly repeat the parental properties without changes. Such specimens are immediately rejected. Check in with your goals and select among the new plants received those that most closely match the desired characteristics. You can also pollinate them by hand, or isolate them.
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The flower of the seed plant should be protected with a textile bag. |
When you receive the seeds, plant them as seedlings. Place young plants in boxes. |
Keep a close eye on your new hybrid and write down your observations in your diary. |
If you decide to seriously develop new varieties, then you will need the advice of a specialist breeder. The fact is that you will need to find out whether you really have developed a new variety or are you following a path already trodden by someone. Competition in the field of creating new varieties is very high.
For those who have decided to experiment with hybridization as a home hobby, we wish you to get a lot of pleasure from this activity, make many joyful discoveries and finally give all your gardener friends a new variety of some wonderful flower named after itself.
Among the huge variety of varieties of apple, pear and other species, varieties of folk selection occupy a place of honor. These include the well-known Antonovka, Anis, Grushovka and others. All of them came from wild plants forest plants and appeared as a result of long-term selection. Selection was first carried out among wild plants, then among cultivated ones. Varieties of folk selection are the result of long and persistent human labor. People have learned not only to select the best gifts of nature, but also to artificially breed new varieties. “Man can and should do better than nature,” said I. V. Michurin. Paying tribute to folk selection, I. V. Michurin pointed out: “A huge collective, with a daring, inquisitive thought, must approach the matter of selection.”
As is known, the formation of hereditary characteristics of a variety ends in seedlings during the period of maturity, when the elite is selected, i.e. candidates for new varieties. Entering the nursery for propagation, they are grafted onto some rootstocks and become clones rather than seedlings. In fruit growing, a clone is the offspring of one original rooted individual.
The scheme for the birth of a new variety through artificial crossing is as follows. First, parental pairs are selected and the maternal and paternal forms are selected for crossing; the original forms are crossed by artificial pollination and hybrid fruits are grown; hybrid seeds are isolated from the fruits and sown in the breeding plot; then hybrid seedlings are raised and selected; the most valuable hybrid seedlings, the elite, are identified, and from the elite, seedlings worthy of being called a variety are selected. After this, the bred varieties are submitted to variety testing.
What is variety testing? This is a deep and comprehensive study of new varieties in various natural conditions. Variety testing consists of three stages: primary, or station, study of the variety at experimental bases of research institutions, experimental stations, and in pomological gardens; testing at a variety testing site, where varieties are carefully selected, discarding those that have shown themselves to be negative, after which the best of the selected varieties are sent for production testing in production conditions under the control of a variety testing commission. It assigns names to new varieties, establishes copyrights, issues copyright certificates, develops passports for new varieties and gives them a “start in life.” The best varieties that have passed the tests are included in the standard assortment of a particular region and are subject to propagation in the usual manner.
This is general scheme birth of a new variety using the method of sexual hybridization. In addition, varieties are also obtained vegetatively - using vegetative hybridization. It is possible to obtain a new variety through clonal selection. To do this, deviations that are interesting in terms of economic characteristics are selected from the crown of fruit-bearing trees and fixed by grafting onto rootstocks. So I.V. Michurin developed a new variety, Antonovka six hundred grams. It was obtained from a “sport” bud variation found on one of the branches of the old variety Antonovka Mogilevskaya white.
Finally, new varieties can be created by sowing seeds obtained from open pollination. But only some varieties are suitable for this. Many varieties are obtained from the seeds of Belleflerkitaika, Pepin saffron and others. They have a good hereditary basis and ensure the production of a large percentage of cultivated seedlings thanks to long-term education and selection.
In fruit growing, a variety is understood as the vegetative offspring of one mother plant obtained as a result of one or another selection method. This plant is identified as a result of careful selection and education and becomes the source of vegetative propagation of a new variety. For the purpose of propagation, cuttings are cut, the ocellar (axillary) buds are separated from them and grafted onto rootstocks in a nursery. Trees grown by grafting have all the characteristics and properties of a mother tree - a rooted seedling. The trees obtained by grafting then become mother trees themselves and are used for vegetative propagation. For this purpose, the best trees in terms of yield and other characteristics are selected under production conditions, from which cuttings are cut and transferred to a nursery for growing planting material.
A very important and valuable feature of a newly bred variety is its constancy, i.e. the ability to reproduce the best qualities of parents in vegetative generations. If the variety did not have conservatism of heredity and changed under the influence of the rootstock and other reasons, it would not have economic significance.
But it would be wrong to think that the immutability of a variety is absolute and persists for centuries. When the original mother seedling dies, the source of propagation of the new variety is its descendants - other mother trees, but already obtained by vegetative means. Possessing the relative stability of valuable traits, the grafted trees themselves gradually change during the cultivation process. Changes depend on the age of the variety itself, growing conditions, movement of the variety to other geographical zones, the level of agricultural technology, the influence of the rootstock and other reasons and can be positive or negative. Changes in grafted trees differ sharply from changes occurring in the life of a seedling.
What is the essence of changes at the earliest stage of development and can they be controlled in the direction desired for a person?
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HOW NEW VARIETIES OF APPLE TREES ARE BREADED
AND van Vladimirovich Michurin, the great transformer of nature, said: “We cannot expect favors from nature; It’s our task to take them from her.” Michurin devoted sixty years of his creative working life to the art of creating new varieties. He also showed the way in which new varieties of plants could be created.
This is the way of hybridization, or artificial crossing of different plant varieties to obtain hybrids (crossbreeds).
As is known, fruit tree without flowering, it cannot set fruit and produce seed. Only during the flowering process is the stigma of the pistil pollinated by pollen from the same or from another tree of the same species and fertilization occurs. The seed that arises in this way will bear the characteristics characteristic of the mother and father trees. And during hybridization, a person chooses producers deliberately, that is, with the properties that he would like to give to the future plant.
Here is an example from the work of I.V. Michurin. IN middle lane In the European part of the USSR there are no pear varieties that would combine the good taste of the fruit and the ability to be stored for a long time, that is, there are no winter varieties. To get a similar variety, Ivan Vladimirovich did this. In 1903, several flowers of a young, six-year-old Ussuri pear tree, whose small fruits are coarse, bloomed for the first time, were fertilized with pollen taken from a potted specimen of the bere-royal pear, an Italian variety with tasty and long-lasting fruits.
Of the five hybrids obtained from this crossing, one, as Ivan Vladimirovich noted, “successfully combined both the properties of the tree and the qualities of its fruits the advantages of both producing plants.” The fruits ripen late in autumn and remain fresh until March (winter Michurina).
Another example. The currently widely known Slavyanka variety was obtained by Ivan Vladimirovich by crossing Antonovka vulgaris (maternal variety) and pineapple renet (paternal variety), whose homeland is France. As a result of hybridization, the excellent taste of renet, its exceptional aroma, were perfectly combined with the winter hardiness of Antonovka and the very significant shelf life of its fruits (until spring).
How is plant hybridization done? It is not only useful for young gardeners, especially those working in clubs, to know the technique of hybridization, but they themselves should actively take part in crossing fruit trees.
The hybridization technique is as follows. On the mother plant, inflorescences are marked (this is the name given to groups of flowers emerging from one fruit bud) with normally developing buds and the least developed ones are removed, leaving two or three of the best. The buds, ready to bloom tomorrow, must be opened and castrated today, that is, all pollen sacs must be carefully plucked out with tweezers or scissors.
To prevent pollen from other flowers from being carried onto castrated flowers by the wind or insects, the treated inflorescences should be placed in white gauze bags, carefully and carefully tied.
Pollen from the flower of the paternal variety is prepared a little earlier - one or two days before castration. Having opened a bud that is ready to bloom, but has not yet blossomed, they tear off the pollen sacs with tweezers and put them in a glass jar. The collected pollen is placed for ripening in a warm and dry place, but not in the sun. The pollen soon ripens and spills out of the sacs. In this form, it can be preserved for a month or more without losing its viability (this makes it possible to receive pollen from remote areas in advance).
The next day after castration of the flower of the mother plant, in the morning, between 8 and 12 o'clock, pollination takes place.
The pollen in the jar is shaken and then applied to the stigma of the pistil using a fingertip or a piece of rubber or cork attached to a wire.
After this, the inflorescence is again enclosed in an insulator to protect the flowers, and subsequently the ovary and fruits, from accidental damage. A label is attached to the branch near the inflorescence indicating the mother plant and the pollinating variety, the date and the number of pollinated flowers.
Pollination of each flower must be repeated over the next three days.
Later, as they ripen, the fruits are removed. Summer varieties are given 7-10 days for final ripening, after which the seeds are selected. Varieties that ripen for a long time are left for storage and seeds are selected from them only when the fruits begin to deteriorate.
The selected seeds are stratified in the usual manner and sown in the spring. However, you cannot be late with the stratification of seeds of winter varieties. It should be done in a timely manner. In this case, of course, you need to be especially careful to ensure that each group of seeds has its own exact designation.
For greater success of hybridization, I. V. Michurin recommends proceeding from some of the provisions he established.
Thus, the best result is obtained if producers are taken from different climatic and soil zones, from different topography, etc. Hybrids obtained from such crossing are easier to change in the direction we need when they find themselves in an environment that is unusual for them.
Young apple trees that have recently begun to bear fruit, like mature trees, but are weakened in some way (dry weather, cold spring, pest-affected), have less chance of transferring their qualities to a hybrid than plants that are in full strength of development.
In years with a warm, moderately humid and quiet spring, the highest percentage of successful crossings occurs. In this weather, the qualities and properties the best varieties, developed under favorable conditions of a warm climate, are much more fully transmitted to hybrids in our area.
Ivan Vladimirovich attached especially great importance to the influences to which a hybrid plant is exposed in the first years of life. The plasticity of a young hybrid is very high, but the stability of the inherited characteristics is weakened by the new environment in which the hybrid plant now finds itself. Therefore, raising a young hybrid is of great importance.
Caring for trees in a hybrid nursery, tillage, and pest control must be carried out at a high agrotechnical level. However, in cases where one of the producers is a southern variety, rich soil is excluded. Hybrids that produce vigorous growth on such soil are pampered. Only those grown on thin soil are hybrids resistant to frost.
Fertilizing seedlings, says Ivan Vladimirovich, should be started only when they begin to lay down their fruiting organs. Enhanced nutrition must be continued during the first three to five years of fruiting, when all the qualities characteristic of a given plant are finally determined. In addition, it is necessary to keep hybrid seedlings from developing large number small branches by pinching lateral branches to direct the movement of sap to the continuation shoots.
