How to grow luxurious chrysanthemums: advice from experienced gardeners. Perennial garden bush chrysanthemum: planting and care, photo How to plant chrysanthemums

1. Seeds
2. Cuttings
3. Queen cell
4. Dividing the bush

In autumn, when everything around is withering, you really want to enjoy the flowers. And such an opportunity is provided by flower beds at the dacha, planted with late-flowering plants. Bright accent Chrysanthemum is such a flower garden. Despite the fact that garden chrysanthemums are very heat-loving, they bloom well in the fall. Moreover, they are not afraid of even slight frosts. This explains the fact that many summer residents decide to have one and decide on how to plant a chrysanthemum. It turns out that this is not difficult.

Chrysanthemums - planting and care in open ground

You need to choose a place for it that is well lit by the sun. At the same time, it must be reliably sheltered from the winds.

Before planting chrysanthemums, you need to take care of the soil composition of the flower garden. Heavy and dense soil should be lightened. To do this you need to use sand and organic fertilizers. If the soil is loose and well-permeable, the chrysanthemum bush will take root easily. And this will guarantee his successful wintering. Find out more ❀ how to grow chrysanthemums in the garden from seeds + what edges to use.

Caring for chrysanthemums in the garden consists of sufficient fertilizer. After watering, it is good to feed it with mullein infusion.

Phosphorus fertilizers enable the formation of large and strong leaves, as well as prolong flowering as much as possible.

The care that chrysanthemum flowers require is to protect them from pests. If aphids appear, then you need to fight them before the buds bloom. Because then it will be impossible to cope with this pest.

Possible plant damage spider mite and meadow bug. In any case, special pesticides must be used.

An important point in caring for chrysanthemums is their wintering. Preparations should begin just before the onset of frost. At this time, the perennial garden chrysanthemum is pruned. The land around the bush should be hilled up and treated with humanate. When frost sets in, cover with spruce branches.

Chrysanthemum multiflora planting and care

Chrysanthemum multiflora

This species is characterized by the spherical shape of the bush. The advantage of this plant is that it does not require special actions to form; this is inherent in its genetics. Chrysanthemum multiflora is characterized by abundant flowering. Moreover, the shades are represented by the entire spectrum of the rainbow.

If a pot of multiflora chrysanthemum was purchased at the end of summer or autumn, then it should be left for the winter in a cool room. At this time, you just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

From the cellar garden pots needs to be exposed at the end of April. Almost at the same time it can be planted in open ground. Multiflora chrysanthemums are planted in holes with fertilizer. The soil needs to be well watered. It is recommended to place the neighboring bush no closer than 60 cm.

In autumn, all branches should be cut off. This will allow you to get more shoots in the spring.

Korean chrysanthemum

She is a hybrid. Moreover different types Korean chrysanthemums differ in their flowering period. They have different inflorescences with a diameter of up to 10 cm or more, as well as the height of the bush. Flowers can be reed or tubular. The coloring of the petals is very wide.

There are three groups of Korean chrysanthemums:

• low-growing (up to 30 cm), which are characterized by early flowering, small roots and a dense bush, they are also called border;
• medium-sized (up to 50 cm);
• tall (up to 1 m), they have a large bush and small flowers; chrysanthemums are characterized by late flowering.

Like other varieties, these chrysanthemums are perennial, planting and caring for them is no different from others. Sun, warmth and loose soil are the key to their successful flowering.

Bush chrysanthemums planting and care with shaping

These plants have a high growth rate. In one season, a cutting can develop into a full-fledged bush. And in order for it to have the correct and beautiful shape, it needs to be formed.

Pinching the tops of shoots should be done starting in early June. This process ends a month before flowering begins.

Plus, in the first year in a new place, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil around the bush. This will encourage the development of strong roots. From them, in turn, underground shoots will begin to grow. They will form a denser bush.

How to plant chrysanthemums correctly?

To begin with, leave it until spring. It is then that she will have enough time to fully take root. This way she can adapt well to the winter.

If planting material was purchased in the form of rooted cuttings, then before replanting the chrysanthemum, you need to wait until it gets warmer. Namely, late May - early June. The entire lump of earth must be carefully removed from the pot and planted in the prepared hole.

Chrysanthemums will take root better in a new place if, after planting, they are watered with a preparation that promotes root formation.

If the pots with the plant were stored in the cellar, then before planting they need to be put outside for a week.

Chrysanthemums planting and care in autumn

It is better to immediately take cuttings purchased at this time of year to a cool room. If winters are characterized by severe frosts, then a necessary condition In order to grow a chrysanthemum healthy and beautiful, you will need to dig it up and plant it in a spacious pot.

Replanting should be done with the onset of the first frost. The bush must be removed from the ground with a large lump of soil. It is necessary to take into account that the roots of the plant extend deep into the soil.

The chrysanthemum pot should be moved to a cool room and, when the leaves begin to wither, prune. About 15 cm should be left above the ground surface.

Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum is a genus of perennial garden flowers of the Asteraceae family. They are native to Asia and Northeastern Europe. Most species come from East Asia, with the greatest variety in China, where chrysanthemums were grown there from the 5th century BC, came to Japan in the eighth century AD, and to England at the end of the 18th century.

Chrysanthemums are herbaceous plants with woody stems or subshrubs with erect stems, usually covered with fine pubescence (glabrous in some species). The leaves are alternate, entire or notched, with a jagged edge. The foliage color is green or light green. If you rub the leaves or break a branch, you will notice a peculiar smell, sometimes quite tart, a characteristic difference between chrysanthemums and asters.

Inflorescences are baskets of small flowers of two types: central tubular, yellow, marginal flowers - reed flowers of a wide variety of colors. The fruit of a chrysanthemum is an achene.

Classification of chrysanthemums

In the process of selection, simple inflorescences have almost completely replaced semi-double and double ones, in which the inflorescence has a cap of multi-row reed flowers. But in addition to double and simple inflorescences, there are other forms: anemone-shaped, tubular, Chinese, peony-shaped, pompom-shaped, decorative, arachnid, etc. Often the difference lies in the shape of the reed flowers - in some varieties they are straight, in others they are slightly curved like a boat, in others they are slightly spiral.

Most often, perennial frost-resistant chrysanthemums of Korean selection are used for garden landscaping, as they are the most unpretentious and frost-resistant; they are often popularly called ‘oak’ - due to the shape of the leaves, reminiscent of oak leaves.

All varieties of chrysanthemums can be divided according to flowering periods into:

• Early bloomers - bloom at the end of August. These varieties are usually low-growing and dense bushes about 25-35 cm tall, used in borders.
• Medium flowering - bloom in early September, mainly with an average height of bushes of 50-60 cm.
• Late flowering - bloom at the end of September, beginning of October, mostly tall, up to 100 cm or more, require garter.

Chrysanthemums bloom for more than a month. Low-growing varieties, as a rule, have very decorative foliage, which allows the formation of multi-tiered flower beds that bloom from late summer to late autumn.

Place for planting garden chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums grow best and produce the most flowers when planted in a sunny area. They need at least three hours of full sun per day.

They also require well-fertilized soil, enough moisture, but not too much. Chrysanthemums do not tolerate dry, peaty or sandy soil, which is poor in mineral composition and does not retain moisture. But they also cannot tolerate stagnation of water and dampness!

Ideally they need a light sandy loam soil, well seasoned with humus and organic matter. Like most garden flowers, chrysanthemums love well-drained soil with big amount organic matter such as compost.

Landing

The soil in flower beds for chrysanthemums needs to be prepared in advance: if it is heavy, clayey, add sand, humus, peat, you can measure it in buckets, take everything in equal parts. If the soil is light sandy, add loam, sod land and humus. Peat soils require serious improvement - they are poor and acidic; loam or turf soil and humus must be added.

All components added to improve the soil must be mixed well. The fertile soil layer should be less than 40 cm.

If you have a plot in a lowland or on a slope, before filling the flower beds, add a layer of crushed stone drainage to the bottom of the trench.

Another important indicator of soil quality that you should pay attention to when planting chrysanthemums is acidity. Changes in acidity or alkalinity can seriously limit plant growth, weaken the root system and even lead to death. Chrysanthemums prefer an acidity of about 6.5, absolutely not lower than 6.2. To increase the pH of the soil, you need to lime the soil, and to lower it (on saline soil) add iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

For deoxidizing soil for chrysanthemums, dolomitic limestone is preferred because it contains magnesium and other minor amounts of nutrients. Slaked lime is not desirable - it very quickly reacts with a change in acidity and, when combined with mineral fertilizers, blocks available phosphorus.

We plant chrysanthemums obtained from dividing an old bush, container chrysanthemums purchased at a nursery, or rooted cuttings in rows depending on the size of the bushes: at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other for low-growing and medium-growing varieties, 45-50 cm for large-growing varieties.

Caring for chrysanthemums

Caring for chrysanthemums involves regular watering, fertilizing, removing faded inflorescences, trimming excess branches and plucking out buds. It is necessary to rejuvenate old bushes in a timely manner - once every three years.

How to water chrysanthemums

At the beginning of the growing season, chrysanthemums are watered about once a week, generously wetting the top layers of soil. In summer, as the temperature rises, the frequency of watering increases, this can be once or twice a week, depending on the weather. By the time of flowering in September, watering is even more frequent - at least three times a week, but do not forget that frequent watering is permissible only on well-drained soil!

Feeding

Chrysanthemums require a rich set of nutrients, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium and magnesium are needed in significant quantities, and small amounts of iron and manganese are also needed, less significant, but it is desirable to be included in fertilizers for chrysanthemums: boron, copper and zinc.

Nitrogen is an element that promotes rapid leaf growth, but is most useful only at the beginning of the growing season, before the formation of inflorescences. Do not use nitrogen fertilizers later than June! If this element is added in excess, especially with a lack of light, the plant forms weak stems and a sluggish root system, and very easily becomes ill with powdery mildew and other diseases.

Phosphorus is vital for the health of chrysanthemums, especially for stimulating root growth and stem maturation; frost resistance of plants and general immunity depend on the sufficiency of phosphorus. If you apply phosphorus fertilizers, do not use double superphosphate, only regular one, it is more easily and evenly distributed in the soil, contains from 18% to 20% of available phosphoric acid.

Potassium promotes the formation of large inflorescences and dense woody stems. But if potassium is added in excess, for example, with ash, the foliage of chrysanthemums becomes very fragile, the stems are fibrous, do not hold moisture well and stand worse when cut.

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with a complete complex fertilizer, for example, with the NPK 5-10-10 formula, or even better with the NPK 5-10-5 formula:

• If chrysanthemums are planted this spring, two feedings per season are sufficient.
• If chrysanthemums were planted a year or two ago, feed them throughout the summer and once a month in the fall.

Since August, only phosphorus fertilizer.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, cuttings and division; chrysanthemums in pots can be purchased at nurseries. Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds very rarely - grown plants do not retain varietal qualities, and you can get completely unexpected shapes, colors and sizes.

If you want faster flowering, you need to propagate by division. To do this in the spring, at the beginning of the season, when the plants begin to grow, use a shovel to separate part of the bush from the periphery of the mother plant and plant it in a prepared flowerbed, filled with organic matter and complex fertilizer.

Old chrysanthemum bushes can be divided into several parts, leaving only the rather depleted middle.

Cuttings can be taken from chrysanthemums of any age. When the stem grows approximately 15-17 cm, cut off the top 10-14 cm and tear off the lower part of the leaves. You can dip the tip of the cutting into the root, although this is not necessary. But you definitely need to sterilize the soil in the pot.

Options for soil mixture for cuttings:

• coarse river sand and universal peat soil (from the store) in equal parts
• coarse river sand and vermiculite in equal parts
• coarse river sand and sphagnum moss in equal parts

The soil needs to be sterilized in the oven or steamed in the garden over steam, and then shed with a solution of phytosporin. Immerse the cutting in it with the part where the leaves were removed. You can root cuttings in peat tablets large size.

Keep the soil moderately moist, but not soggy. And be sure to keep it warm - for rooting you need a temperature of about 22-24°C and shade from direct sun.

You can cut chrysanthemums during the summer, just not in the hottest time. Roots form in about two weeks. When you see that the cutting has begun to grow new leaves, everything went well. After the young shoots have grown by about 5 cm, you can transplant young chrysanthemum bushes into flower beds using the transshipment method: without touching the root ball, remove them from the pot and plant them in prepared holes.

With any method of propagation, divisions or cuttings, if the weather is very sunny, need to be shaded for 2-3 days. At the same time, rooted cuttings and young bushes should not be buried in the soil in the flower bed to a depth greater than they were rooted in the pot or in the old place.

The first watering can be carried out with a solution of the zircon preparation.

After planting in a permanent place in the garden, the soil around the chrysanthemums must be mulched to prevent the roots from drying out and to create a barrier to weeds. In addition, mulch protects the root system from overheating in the heat, and from hypothermia in winter.

Gradually, the mulch breaks down and forms humic acids, improving the quality of the soil - it becomes loose or crumbly. If you do not mulch the soil, then when planting chrysanthemums purchased in containers from the nursery, sprinkle them with soil 1.5-2 cm higher than in the pot.

How to plant chrysanthemums in autumn

If you managed to purchase a chrysanthemum cutting or a container plant at the end of summer or autumn, you can plant them in flower beds until mid-September, so that they have time not only to take root in a new place, but also to sufficiently increase the root mass. If you don't meet deadlines, store chrysanthemums in containers.

It is necessary to transplant the chrysanthemum from a store pot or glass where the cutting took root into a wide but low container with universal flower soil. Do not prune immediately, just place the container in a moderately cool room. If you have an insulated balcony, you can grow chrysanthemums there until the end of October.

Trim aboveground part possible when the temperature reaches about +4 °C. If subzero temperatures are not expected on your balcony, then you don’t need to do anything else, just periodically - once a month or less often - water the plants a little, just enough so that the soil does not dry out completely.

If your temperature can drop slightly below zero (the balcony is glazed, but not heated), prepare a large cardboard box and insulation material: sawdust, straw, dried sphagnum moss, or a large cotton blanket.

When it gets colder (below +3-4°C), place the container with the chrysanthemum in a box, fill the gaps between the walls with sawdust, or lay batting or foam rubber. Focus on the thermometer readings. If necessary, cover with a blanket, stop watering, the soil should be dry. Cold temperatures below -2°C are unacceptable. Those. the temperature on the balcony can drop below zero (down to minus 5-7°C), but in a pot with chrysanthemum it remains at least minus 2°C.

If you have a warm greenhouse in your garden, then in February-March you can move the flowers there, water as needed - the soil should not be constantly damp or dry out, only moderate moisture.

If there is a lot of planting material in the greenhouse, carry out preventive treatment against diseases - spray all plants with phytosporin or hang iodine cushions (moisten tea bags with 0.5 ml of iodine for each and hang in 2-3 places in the greenhouse). The problem is that chrysanthemums are prone to fungal diseases, and greenhouses are poorly ventilated. Iodine vapors help disinfect the air and keep plants healthy until they are planted in flower beds in early May.

It is possible to store chrysanthemums in a cellar or basement in winter, if they are well ventilated, no high humidity and fungus on the walls.

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

At the beginning of the season, when the stems grow in the spring, pinch them at a height of about 15-20 cm, approximately 2-3 cm from the crown. This will force the plant to actively branch, and when the side branches grow another 15 cm, pinch out the top 1.5-2 cm again. This pinching process must be completed 50-60 days before the expected flowering - early flowering ones can be pinched until July, mid and late flowering ones - Until August.

Inflorescence sizes different varieties different, large-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 10 to 25 cm, they are grown in 2-3 stems, pinch and leave the largest inflorescences at the ends of the shoots - these are most often offered as cut flowers for bouquets, usually 1-5 inflorescences on one branch.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 2-9 cm, are usually grown in bush form, and the inflorescences are not single baskets, but a complex shield or panicle, with 15 - 20 inflorescences on one branch.

Chrysanthemums in winter

At the end of autumn, when the foliage dies, cut off the entire above-ground part of the plants at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground.

The cold resistance of chrysanthemums varies among different varieties; some are very frost-resistant, and there are those that freeze out in central Russia and Siberia. If you buy seeds in a store or container seeds at a nursery, check the variety’s suitability for the climatic zone (can be indicated from 3 to 9).

In any case, you need to prepare for harsh winters by covering the bushes in late autumn with a high layer of mulch from straw, sawdust, fallen leaves or spruce branches. If the root zone of old bushes has risen significantly from the original level, first you need to mulch with peat, then with straw, and then with spruce branches.

If the place on your site is quite low, then before covering, prepare drainage grooves near the flower beds - constant humidity or ice on the leaves, as well as alternate freezing and thawing of the soil, pose a serious danger to chrysanthemums in winter. Therefore, if multi-layer coverings are used, they must be removed in time in the spring - most often chrysanthemums die due to damping off under excessively warm coverings.

Some gardeners, in order not to lose valuable varieties of chrysanthemums before sheltering for the winter at the end of September, separate part of the bush and store it in a container until spring.

Related Posts

It’s not for nothing that the chrysanthemum is called the queen of autumn, because these pretty flowers bright colors decorate our gardens from September until frost.

There are a great many types and varieties of chrysanthemums, but what is noteworthy is that there is no single system for their classification. In different countries they are divided into classes (in Germany and France there are 10, in the USA and Great Britain - 15). But one way or another, the beauty and grandeur of these noble flowers does not suffer from this - chrysanthemums have been and remain one of the most popular among autumn flower lovers.

Planting chrysanthemums

Choosing a suitable place for a chrysanthemum bush is one of the most important moments when landing. The bush should be located in a warm, sunny place, sheltered from the winds. This will guarantee rapid growth and branching, development of good bush shape and safe wintering.

This plant absolutely does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in the roots, so try to choose a planting site on a hill, if possible. The soil under chrysanthemums should be loose, fertile, air- and water-permeable. Soil acidity is closer to neutral; slightly acidic soils are also suitable. If the soil cover of your site is clay or sandy, then before planting chrysanthemums it should be improved with organic matter. The ideal fertilizer for this is humus or vermicompost; complex fertilizers will also come in handy.

Chrysanthemums should be planted in the spring, when the threat of return frosts has passed, or in the fall, at least two weeks before the onset of frost. For gardening work choose a cloudy or rainy day. Prepare a hole or one common trench for each bush, where you place the seedlings at intervals of 30-50 cm. In order to speed up the rooting of the chrysanthemum, after planting, water the trench with Kornevin’s solution. After this, pinch the growing point of each bush, and then cover the seedlings with spunbond or other covering material. It should be removed when the seedlings begin to grow.

Caring for chrysanthemums in the garden

Chrysanthemum is not the most capricious flower; caring for it in the open ground still requires knowledge of some secrets.

So, for example, when the eighth leaf appears on the seedlings, the top of the plant and young side shoots should be pinched so that your chrysanthemum has a beautiful bush shape.

As for the main points of caring for perennial chrysanthemums, they are as follows:

• abundant watering is required, and the water must be rain or settled, and it must be poured at the root - chrysanthemums do not like sprinkling;
• after each watering, the soil under the bush needs to be loosened for better breathability;
• and do not forget about removing weeds, which can choke the growth of chrysanthemums and make the plant weaker.

Separately, it should be said about fertilizing. There should be three of them per season. The chrysanthemum is fed for the first time 7-8 weeks after planting with nitrogen fertilizers (for example, ammonia nitrogen). This benefits the growth of green mass. Then, during the budding period, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used. They are convenient apply at the root the next day after watering or good rain. The third feeding will be the application of organic fertilizers (mullein, bird droppings). However, it is important not to overdo it, because otherwise the plant can simply be “burnt.”

By correctly planting chrysanthemums in the open ground and mastering how to care for them, you will become the happy owner of a “golden flower” (this is how the name of the flower is translated from Greek) in your autumn garden!

Chrysanthemum is a herbaceous, perennial or annual plant from the Asteraceae or Asteraceae family.

It is very popular among many breeders - the creation of new varieties continues to this day, releasing more and more new forms and types onto the market. The chrysanthemum itself can be perennial or annual, growing as herbaceous plant

or subshrub. Its leaves are varied in shape and size, arranged alternately, the color of which can vary from light green to dark.

Chrysanthemum flowers are small, collected in a basket, sometimes forming an inflorescence that is quite large in size, varied in color, double or simple. It produces fruits from seeds, but, as a rule, propagation occurs more by cuttings or layering.

How to properly plant chrysanthemums in open ground It is best to plant chrysanthemums in the ground on beds on a cloudy day, especially when there is light rain or immediately after it. At the same time, it is best to plant it without digging a hole, but by forming a trench, maintaining a distance of 35–45 cm - it all depends on the variety, as well as the type of chrysanthemum. After this, water it and pin it, removing it in in this case

growth point - this will help to form a bush, and not drive it up.

Next, you should wrap it up - in this case, dry leaves or film are optimal in order to create a favorable climate for rooting and remove it only when the chrysanthemum itself has taken root and starts throwing out the first shoots.

Choosing a landing time It is optimal to plant chrysanthemums only after they have passed spring frosts

- this is a period of time in the middle - end of May, after at least 5-6 days have passed after frost.

Site selection and soil preparation

Any variety of chrysanthemum is very demanding on the composition of the soil - for optimal growth, formation of the bush and the flowers themselves. In this case, the soil should be rich in nutrients - on loose, well-permeable soil, rich in nutrients, the chrysanthemum will feel very comfortable, delighting gardeners with its magnificent appearance and bright colors.

When the soil itself is not very fertile, very dense in texture, then just before planting it in open ground, a bucket of rotted manure or compost mass or peat is brought into the hole itself. Just don’t overdo it - with excessive moisture and the presence of fertilizer, the bush will grow intensively and will not knock out flowers, which will be detrimental to its appearance.

The optimal addition to the hole would also be chicken omelette - a little so as not to “burn” the root system, mixing it in equal proportions with coarse river sand. Speaking about the acidity of the soil - for it it is worth choosing neutral or slightly acidic areas, the pH of which varies from 5.5 to 7.0

Soil treatment and preparation

The soil itself must be carefully prepared before planting chrysanthemums. At the very beginning, it is worth loosening the soil, and if the soil is very dense in structure, add several buckets of peat and rotted leaves to the planting site, and thus making it looser and lighter.

To increase soil fertility the best option There is the introduction of the necessary fertilizers into the soil - this can be chicken droppings mixed with sand, diluted manure, or fertilizing the soil with mineral complexes. All this will ultimately create favorable conditions for the growth and flowering of chrysanthemums.

The process of planting in open ground

As noted earlier, it is optimal to plant a flower on a cloudy day, when it has rained the day before, or there is light rainfall on the day of gardening work itself.

It is best to plant it not in a hole, but by digging a trench - its level should not be higher than the growth point, so that in the future the plant will not die by rotting.

The plant is carefully placed in the ground, the root system is leveled and sprinkled with soil, after which it is watered abundantly.

The planted plant should be wrapped in sawdust or leaves for a while, thereby insulating it from possible freezing, creating favorable growth conditions and mulching the space around it.

Chrysanthemums are mostly propagated - vegetatively, by dividing the bush, layering and cuttings, since taking and sowing seeds for the most part does not retain their varietal characteristics. But in any case, whatever is chosen, it is worth considering certain points.

At the very beginning, if you plant or replant a chrysanthemum in the spring, you should do this after all the unexpected spring frosts have passed and the optimal time in this case is the middle - the end of May or the beginning of summer.

When it is planted in the fall, planting should be done at least before the 13th–15th of September, so that the chrysanthemum can take root, taking root before the cold weather.

If this was not done, if only because we did not have time, it will be enough to plant the rhizome in a wide but shallow pot the size of the root system and cut the upper part low enough.

After such manipulations, place the flowerpot in a dark, cool, but not cold place, with temperature conditions 4–6 degrees Celsius and store there until spring planting.

Periodically, such a pot should be watered so that the plant simply does not dry out over the winter.

In such a homemade improvised flowerpot, the bush should be taken out into the sunlight at the end of winter, or if there is a greenhouse, planted there and watered frequently. At the end of March, having overwintered, it produces a mass of young shoots, which can later be used for cuttings and propagation by the vegetative method.

To propagate chrysanthemums in this way, cut cuttings about 8–10 cm long, no more, after which they are planted in an ordinary box filled with either perlite or an earth mixture of coarse sand, deciduous soil and humus in parts of 2 to 1 to 1, respectively .

Freshly cut cuttings are planted, and their rooting takes place over the course of 3–4 weeks, after which they can be planted in a large container or, if possible, in a greenhouse.

Chrysanthemum care The planting itself, as well as the subsequent care of the chrysanthemum, is not difficult, but at the same time it has its own rules, which both a novice gardener and more should know and remember. for an experienced gardener

. In particular, the seedlings themselves, already planted in open ground and which have already thrown out 8 leaves - such shoots should be pinched so that the entire bush does not go up, but to the sides, so to speak, its bushiness increases. For the same purpose, it is worth pinching young shoots growing from the sides - this is how you can get one that is symmetrical in shape and quite thick,.

This method of forming a bush does not apply to large-flowering varieties - in such varieties, the side shoots should be completely removed, and they can be used for subsequent rooting.

At the same time, tall varieties, branches, should be supported, otherwise the bush itself will fall apart, break - it can be tied to tall, metal or wooden pegs, a mesh or a wire structure, i.e. to any supports that are not difficult to make from scrap materials.

Regarding watering, it is worth watering it very generously every time.– if there is a lack of water, the bush may become woody, and the flower itself will not be so beautiful, small and inconspicuous. For this purpose, the optimal water is considered to be collected rain moisture, or pre-settled, with the addition of a small pinch of ammonia or ammonium nitrate.

It is worth watering the plant at the root so that the water does not get on the foliage itself, and then, when the water is absorbed, you should loosen the soil around it and remove any weeds.

The soil for chrysanthemums should not be dense, but loose and well permeable to water, nutritious, rich in useful material. Speaking about the acidity of the soil, it is worth choosing neutral or slightly acidic areas, the pH of which varies from 5.5 to 7.0. Otherwise, in dense, heavy soils, the plant dies, most of it rotting, or does not produce beautiful greenery and flowers.

Top dressing

The care itself also includes mandatory feeding in its technology - and in this regard it is worth remembering that during the entire growing season it is worth carrying out such manipulations at least 3 times.

The best option is a combination of mineral fertilizers and organic matter - with regard to mineral complexes, it is worth paying special attention to ammonia nitrogen, due to which the green part of the plant will grow, as well as phosphorus-potassium will help to form large and fragrant flowers and should be used during the formation and formation of the bud .

As for organic fertilizers, the best option is ordinary rotted cow manure or diluted chicken manure.

Fertilizers should be diluted before use and the bush itself should be fed the next day after rain or heavy watering - you should not feed the chrysanthemum on dry soil, but only after moistening it well.

The very first feeding should be done 7-8 weeks after planting, and it is worth saying that many experienced gardeners say that it is best to slightly underfeed rather than simply burn it with a concentrated solution.

Diseases and pests

Speaking of diseases, in the presence of thickets or in the absence of compliance with growing rules, it can be affected by fungal diseases. In this case, we can talk about such diseases as caused by a fungus:

• verticillium wilt of a plant, when the fungus itself infects it, penetrating through the root system, affecting the leaves - the latter turn yellow and fall off.
• powdery mildew when the leaves and shoots themselves, the buds and the flowers themselves are affected - in this case they become covered with a whitish coating.
• rust, in which the ground part of the chrysanthemum becomes covered with brown spots, the leaf turns yellow, and the stem itself dries out.
• gray rot, when the plant becomes covered with brownish spots, which after some time become covered with fluff - it is this that causes the rotting and wilting of the chrysanthemum.

The fungus from the affected bush can be eliminated with preparations containing copper, which can successfully overcome septoria, as well as rust and rot. Also, Bordeaux mixture helps eliminate powdery mildew and gray rot from the plant, and soap emulsion and colloidal sulfur help eliminate rust.

If it is attacked by pests, most likely the chrysanthemum itself was attacked by aphids. It is this pest that first attacks the green part, settling on inside leaf or at the bottom of the bud. Aphids, as well as the larvae they lay, suck the juice from the chrysanthemum and, as a result, slow growth and flowering, falling leaves and buds.

If several leaves are affected by aphids, the pests should be destroyed by tearing off the leaves, but if the aphids have covered the plant itself quite densely, it is worth treating it entirely with actellik or actara, adding simple laundry soap to the mixture itself.

Also, the bush itself can be affected by the meadow bug - just like aphids, its larvae also feed on plant sap. As a result of the defeat, the leaves and buds fall off, which turn brown and become covered with spots, as well as the complete death of the entire plant. To eliminate the meadow bug and its larvae, the greens should be treated with a solution of simple baby shampoo - preparing it is simple, just add a tablespoon of shampoo to 10 liters of water.

In addition to aphids and bugs for chrysanthemums, ordinary garden snails and slugs also pose a lot of danger - they devour the greenery of the plant. In this case, you should not use harsh measures to combat slugs and snails - this can disrupt the ecosystem of the entire area with flowers, and they themselves perform an important function as orderlies.

It is best to attract birds to your site - they help in preventing slugs and snails, and also protect the bush itself with a small fence in order to prevent the living creatures from approaching the bush. How interesting option The way to fight slugs and snails is to place saucers with beer in the bushes of plants and after a while simply collect a rich “harvest” around them.

Chrysanthemum transplant

According to the technology of growing in one place, the bush should not grow for more than 3 years - otherwise the plant will, so to speak, mope and be capricious, often get sick, and the leaves and flowers will become smaller. In this case, it is worth replanting it in the spring - and in this regard, you can divide the bush and plant the flower in this way, carefully digging it up and dividing the dense root system into parts with a sharp tool. Next, you should sprinkle the cut area with coal and plant it as described above.

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums; planting and caring for these flowers in open ground is not particularly difficult, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, and to propagate the plant in the fall, read the basics. If you don’t know how to form a beautiful bush into a ball, then remember, you need pinching and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching...

Methods and timing of propagation of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are annual - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennial - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, queen cells or dividing the bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn; each season has its own advantages:

1. Seeds They are sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow 10 cm, they are pinched. In autumn, chrysanthemums are already blooming
2. Cuttings- a very popular method of propagating chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting a cutting even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in soil consisting of sand and peat. The glass-covered box is kept in a cool place, no higher than +15°C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of frost, in open ground. If you purchased a cutting of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
3. Queen cell- this is an overwintered rhizome of a chrysanthemum from which shoots will come; it can be purchased and planted in early spring
4. Dividing the bush- the only method of autumn planting of chrysanthemums, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with pruners and planted. This procedure should be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in open ground differ in spring and autumn - when planting in spring, queen cells and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose a flowering bush and not be mistaken with its appearance.

During very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed oak - this species unites many varieties, zoned in the middle zone and the Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and freeze out easily.

For chrysanthemums, choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, so waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm. A shallow hole is dug so that the shoots on the mother plant or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with earth; when dividing the bush, this is approximately 40 cm. No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only the foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then cover them with soil and compact it. Cuttings after spring planting It is advisable to cover it from the sun with spunbond for a couple of weeks.

When planting in autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly; this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, due to which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut off and a third of the stems are left so that the nutrients go to the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter

Chrysanthemum does not tolerate stagnant moisture, but it loves watering - without water, the stems become stiff and the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling; it needs to be watered at the root, preferably with rain or settled water. After watering, the soil is loosened to avoid crusting.

In spring, chrysanthemums need nitrogen fertilizing for rapid growth; this can be done 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of chrysanthemum budding, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthen the plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties need to be tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The beginning of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut off in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or leaves. The most delicate varieties are wrapped with a covering material on top and something flat is placed on top - for example, a plywood board - to protect them from moisture. Some gardeners dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to ensure the preservation of the variety.

How to create spherical chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and caring in open ground is not all that is needed, and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

After winter, chrysanthemums are cut and pinched to obtain a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is the multiflora chrysanthemum, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, it is pinched, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flowerbed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the above-ground part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically, dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first shoots appear, which means that the plant has woken up and it’s time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flowerbed, the stems need to be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven material for the winter.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers; when planting, add more humus and wood ash to the hole. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is turf soil.

You can also form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums; in small- and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the side shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, after which they actively branch, pinching is done until the buds appear.

In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, one or two pinchings are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are pinched - from mid-July, shoots emerging from the leaf axils are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.

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Among the colossal variety of garden plants, including flower stalks, the magnificent perennial garden chrysanthemum, which is also called the queen of autumn, occupies a fairly high place. This beautiful, tart-smelling flower opens its buds at the end of August, and pleases us until the frosts, if we provide it with appropriate and regular care, showing patience and diligence. These flowers are completely unpretentious; they do not need constant supervision, however proper care garden chrysanthemum implies strict implementation of all recommendations, although there are not many of them. If you do everything correctly, the plant will delight you for a long time with its variety of colors and shapes, from the end of summer until the winter snowfalls.

Persistent and hardy chrysanthemums: growing and caring for the garden

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You need to understand that the chrysanthemum, which we will discuss in the garden today, was brought to us a long time ago from the East. The ancient Chinese and Japanese attached some mystical meaning to this flower; it was considered a symbol of the sun, joy and optimism. Indeed, how can one not believe the legends, at least once having seen the magnificent pom-poms of assorted buds, delighting with their bitter-tart smell, as well as long-lasting flowering. Among experienced flower growers, as well as professional breeders, it is customary to divide all types and types of chrysanthemums into several main subcategories to simplify the choice suitable flower for your own plot.

Worth knowing

There is simply a huge number of different varieties of chrysanthemums, which can differ not only in color, but also in the size of the inflorescences, the height of the bushes, and so on. For example, there are types that are intended exclusively for cutting and making bouquets. They bloom quite early, but also stop flowering quite quickly.

• Chrysanthemums of simple form, which are most often found in our gardens and flower beds.
• Figured and double chrysanthemums are already more “civilized” varieties, bred artificially.
• Large-flowered plants that are best suited for a wide variety of compositions and bouquets.

Chrysanthemum varieties for planting and care in open ground: let's take into account the nuances

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It is very important to understand that there are no clear criteria that delimit the color of the varieties of one or another type of chrysanthemum. These amazing flowers really amaze with their diverse palette, so that even the most meticulous gardener will definitely choose something for himself, just the one he has been dreaming about for a long time. Caring for chrysanthemums of various varieties and types in the garden is no different, so you don’t have to worry that something will be done wrong, the main thing is to carry out all the manipulations with the plant on time, and then you can expect wild flowering in the fall.

• Most often, gardeners give preference to garden bush chrysanthemums, which are perfect for landscape design any household plot.
• An excellent option for your garden will also be feathery terry varieties, which have petals so densely planted that their shape most closely resembles small balls.
• The greatest demand on the market is for pompom chrysanthemums, the flowers of which have an ideal ball shape. They are quite large, and the variety of colors will allow you to anticipate any desires.
• The unusual shape of the tubular petals also attract attention with bristle-shaped chrysanthemums, which simply cannot be ignored.
• The anemone-like varieties of these flowers got their name from their resemblance to anemones, and it will not be at all difficult to recognize them; they have a wreath of petals and a convex center. The smell of such delicate flowers is very strong and can be heard until frost, which is why amateur gardeners especially love them.
• More rare varieties include spoon-shaped chrysanthemums, which received their name not by chance. The fact is that their petals resemble a teaspoon in shape, they are beautiful and unusual.

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Ordinary flowers, that is, simple flowers, as well as semi-double varieties, are excellent for planting and caring for chrysanthemums in the country. Outwardly, they may slightly resemble a daisy, which gives them an unobtrusive classic charm and incredible charm.

The best garden chrysanthemums: planting and care in the garden or flowerbed

First of all, you need to understand that caring for garden chrysanthemums begins with planting, since it requires a special place, as well as soil. It is best to choose a slightly elevated place where water will definitely not accumulate. The soil should be loose, not clogged, with good drainage capabilities. In addition, the place must be sunny or slightly darkened, but never shady, otherwise your flowers will stupidly stretch their stems upward, and flowers may not appear on them at all.

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• For planting, it is better to buy special soil, which, by definition, will be quite hygroscopic and also loose. You can pre-mix the soil with peat and gravel, the main thing here is not to overdo it, so that the nutrients for the flower remain in it, because this, after all, is far from a cactus, which only needs to be watered once every six months.
• Chrysanthemum does not like excessive watering, because the roots can rot. But excessive drying should also never be allowed. This flower has a superficial root system, and if there is a lack of moisture, it will first become dry, its leaves will turn yellow and curl, and subsequently the plant may die altogether.
• For transplanting and planting, it is best to choose rainy or even cloudy weather to make it easier for the plant to withstand stress.
• The hole is made from twenty-five to forty centimeters, depending on the size of the rhizome, it is spilled generously with pre-settled water, after which drainage is laid on the bottom. For example, washed and coarse river sand is perfect.

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After planting, the chrysanthemum should only be lightly sprinkled with soil; there is no need to deepen it excessively, since the soil must be compacted with great care. For tall varieties, it is better to immediately provide support in the form of garden trellis, or even just a buried beautiful twig. It is necessary to carry out pinching immediately after planting, and then, after about fifteen twenty days. This will not only allow you to correctly form the shape of the chrysanthemum crown, but will also lead to denser growth of young shoots with inflorescences. After the plant has completely taken root, all that remains is to figure out how to care for the garden chrysanthemum so that it will delight you for a long time with fragrant pom-poms of flowers.

After planting chrysanthemums, it makes sense to shade them somewhat and protect them from the bright sun, since the plant is already under stress. The easiest way to do this is with the help of a special garden non-woven material. Here you need to strictly ensure that your “roof” does not touch the stems and leaves, as this negatively affects overall growth. The easiest way is to build a kind of box frames from thin planks, upholstering them with appropriate fabric.

Methodically and carefully: how to care for chrysanthemums in the garden

In order for you to grow a beautiful decorative chrysanthemum in your garden, you need to provide it with appropriate care, and you don’t need to think that only experienced gardeners can do this. These flowers are very unpretentious, as already mentioned, so even those who have never even grown radishes before can cope with cultivation. The main catch may lie in watering, which should be regular, but never excessive, as this will simply destroy your flowers. A large number of moisture can lead to rotting of the roots, but a lack of moisture can lead to woodiness of the stems, and the chrysanthemum will no longer be so beautiful and attractive.

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• Regularly, as needed, but at least once every two weeks, you need to thoroughly loosen the soil near the rhizome. At the same time, you need to ensure that there are no holes or holes left in which water can accumulate, which is detrimental to the chrysanthemum.
• Feed the flowers during flowering by diluting mullein one to ten with water. Such procedures can be carried out weekly. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are ideal for stimulating flowering, and the notorious phosphates and nitrogen-containing compounds are ideal for foliage growth.
• It is worth remembering that fertilizers and fertilizing should never get on the leaves and flowers, since in this way you can only get unsightly and dangerous burns for the plant. Among other things, it is better to underfeed a chrysanthemum than to overfeed it; this is a law that should be strictly observed.

Reproduction and transplantation of chrysanthemums in the garden: how to care for them correctly

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Please note that all perennial plants must be propagated exclusively by dividing the rhizome, as well as by cuttings. Seeds can be grown, but no one can guarantee that they will retain varietal characteristics. In most cases, when growing chrysanthemums from seeds, selection must begin from the very beginning. Transplantation and propagation of such beautiful flowers should be carried out in late spring or early summer, while the plant has not yet thrown out buds and is not going to waste energy on flowering.

However, circumstances may develop in such a way that planting material appears closer to autumn, which confuses novice gardeners. Before the beginning, or at least until mid-September, flowers can still be germinated; if you have time, they will take root and overwinter quite easily. However, it is better not to leave late seedlings in open ground, but to plant them in a wide, but not deep pot, and then place them in a place where the temperature will not fall below five degrees Celsius, but will not rise higher either. The plant will need to be watered regularly, but not too much.

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At the end of winter, if possible, the plants can be moved and planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, where they will need to be watered much more often and more abundantly than in winter in order to convey to them that it is time to start growing. However, that’s not all; it’s also worth finally mentioning diseases and pests from which you will have to protect and protect your flowers, because they simply have no other protection.

• Ticks and aphids cannot tolerate high humidity; if you water regularly, you can easily get rid of this scourge. It is quite possible that even spraying the stems and flowers will help, the main thing is that the water is clean, soft and settled.
• Caterpillars, as well as leaf rollers and snails, do not tolerate drugs such as “Fitovermi”, “Ratibor”, “Aktara” and others; it is better to consult and find out more thoroughly in a specialized store.
• Inspect stems, plants and flowers as often as possible to detect threats immediately and eliminate them promptly. Damaged parts of plants, leaves, stems or flowers should be immediately removed and taken away from the site, and then closely monitor the plants.

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It turns out that caring for a garden chrysanthemum does not imply anything complicated or unrealistic at all, and even an absolute beginner can cope with such a task. The main thing here is attentiveness and consistency of steps, and the flower will do the rest itself and will delight you for a long time with its magnificent appearance and wonderful aroma.

Planting in open ground and subsequent care of perennial chrysanthemums is not difficult, but it is important to pay attention to the details. And then the chrysanthemums in the garden will delight your dacha or garden with their attractiveness and flowering for a long time. For many, the flower is associated with the autumn period. And indeed, plants surprise with their beauty after the leaves have flown and all the other flowers have bloomed. Caring for chrysanthemums is quite easy. Even a novice gardener can easily cope with the task.

To understand how to properly plant and care for perennial chrysanthemums, you need to find out which varieties can be called the most popular. Common varieties include the following:

1. "Alpine". Such low chrysanthemum flowers resemble bushes. A very popular view for organizing various design elements, e.g. alpine slide, because the height of the plant is up to 14 centimeters. The flower is distinguished by dissected leaves of a gray-green hue, and the diameter of the flowers is about 3-5 centimeters. The plant pleases with its beauty in the middle of summer. And also the flower is not afraid of frost, so in winter it can be left without shelter.
2. "Korean". This is a perennial garden bush chrysanthemum, which is grown mainly in areas with low winter temperatures, for example in Siberia, although its homeland is eastern countries (Korea, Japan, China). The flower requires shelter for the winter, but otherwise easily tolerates all the features of the Russian climate.
3. "Altyn ay." These are garden chrysanthemums that reach a height of 60 centimeters. The flowers have a rich yellow tint and are about 8 centimeters in diameter. The plant blooms from mid-August until mid-October or even early November.
4. "Autumn Dreams" Such bush chrysanthemums bloom for three months, surprising gardeners with semi-double flowers of a rich yellow hue, which reach 7.5 centimeters in diameter.
5. "Dina". This perennial chrysanthemum is very popular. These are small bushes about 45 centimeters high, which begin to delight the gardener with flowering from the second half of August until the beginning of November. The flowers reach 8 centimeters in diameter and also have a snow-white hue.
6. "Zemfira". This chrysanthemum is spherical and blooms for almost three months, starting from the end of July. It has small and single flowers, distinguished by a beautiful light pink hue.

When wondering how to grow chrysanthemums, you need to decide on your goals. Some plant the plant simply for decoration or to create a bouquet, others use it as a kind of border element, and still others use it as an element of landscape design. Please note that large flowers It will be possible to grow only in the south, and for other regions of the country, plants that are more resistant to Russian winters, for example, “Korean” varieties, will be suitable. In addition, keep in mind that the bush requires updating after three years.

Planting a plant

Planting a perennial chrysanthemum must be done correctly, so that later you can provide proper care for it and admire the beauty of the flowering. Keep in mind that only flowers that are resistant to severe frosts typical of winter are planted in the garden: zoned varieties and chrysanthemums grown from seeds. It is advisable to plant the remaining varieties in pots as children or seeds. You can use them to decorate your home.

When to plant chrysanthemums in open ground? This is a valid question. Flowers can often be found in stores in the fall, but planting better in spring. Overwintering a newly purchased plant should be done in pots, otherwise it may simply not withstand the winter, because all the energy will be spent on rooting the flower in the ground. In the southern part of the country, the flower is planted at the end of April or early May, and in the northern part - after spring frosts.

First you need to choose the right place to plant the flower. A prerequisite is excellent illumination, and it is also worth taking care of a sufficient amount of sunlight during the day. Chrysanthemums do not bloom well in the shade: the flowers will become small and the stems will become very tall, as they will stretch high in search of sunlight. It is good when there is protection from the wind, as well as sufficient moisture in the soil (the soil should not be dry all the time, but stagnation of liquid after sowing chrysanthemums should be avoided).

Separately, consider the following soil requirements for planted plants:

• it must allow both air and moisture to pass through;
• the correct soil is loose;
• You can use soil of any type and composition, with the exception of heavy clay;
• It is advisable that the flowers be planted in fertile soil (in poor soil the flowering will be weak);
• choose slightly acidic soil (add peat to the holes during planting and subsequent care of chrysanthemums).

How to plant chrysanthemums correctly? The algorithm is simple and involves the following steps:

1. First you need to prepare the holes, the depth of which should be about 40 centimeters. 40 centimeters are left between the holes, and 50 centimeters between the rows.
2. At the bottom of each hole you need to lay a drainage layer, for example, made of sand or stones.
3. Pour one handful of humus into each hole and water the soil well.
4. Plant chrysanthemums so as not to deepen them too much.
5. Place stakes nearby that will support the bushes. If necessary (or immediately if the chrysanthemum is tall), you need to tie up the flower.

After planting, you should figure out how to properly care for the plant so that it will delight you with flowering. First you need to pinch the top for better tillering. This is done after the plant has rooted. After three weeks, the pinching procedure is repeated, achieving a spherical shape of the bush. But keep in mind that if the bushes are planted at the beginning of summer, then it is too late to pinch. Leave the single-stem crop, which also looks interesting.

How to properly care for garden crops?

Caring for a crop such as the perennial garden chrysanthemum, as well as planting, is accessible to any gardener. It is imperative to take care of proper and timely watering, because these plants are very sensitive to insufficient moisture. This will be evidenced by the formation of rare and small flowers, as well as woodiness of the stem. But excess water should also be avoided, as the root system may begin to rot. Stick to the golden mean (the soil under the bush should be slightly moist all the time), and also pay attention to the weather (watering should be more frequent in hot weather, and less frequent in cold weather).

Cover the plant for the winter, for example, with dry branches or spruce branches.

Chrysanthemums need fertilizers of both mineral and organic types. It is advisable to make mineral fertilizer every two to three weeks. Moreover, during the growing season, nitrogen should predominate in the fertilizing composition, and then the emphasis is on potassium and phosphorus. Use fertilizer on the basis that for two square meters of planting it is enough to dilute 40 grams of the selected product in ten liters of water. In addition, three times a season you need to feed the flower with mullein infusion (it is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with water). Approximately one liter of solution is poured under each plant. The next morning (that is, after fertilizing), the soil needs to be loosened.

Remember! Plants react negatively to fresh manure, so its use as fertilizer is taboo. For each square meter you need to use a composition of 20 kg of humus, 100 g of potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea, 100 g of superphosphate per square meter. This fertilizer is applied during digging. Additionally, sand is used if the flower is to be grown on soils that are difficult to drain.

Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemum in the open ground is a feasible job for any gardener. There are no difficulties as such. It is enough to know how to properly care for chrysanthemums in the garden so that the plant enjoys long and abundant flowering. Take into account the subtleties - and the plant will become a full-fledged element of the landscape design of your personal plot.

Flowers that conquered the world - starting their journey with Far East, chrysanthemums entered the history of China and Japan, taking an honorable place in their culture and becoming an important part of national symbolism. In these countries, chrysanthemums have been grown for more than three thousand years, cultivating more and more new species.

It is not surprising that the birthplace of heat-loving varieties of chrysanthemums is a fabulous and colorful country - India. The multicolored outfits of Indian women and the variety of bright holidays simply could not exist without such a wonderful “spice” as beautiful flower. Chrysanthemum in India can be found both in an ordinary courtyard and in ancient temple, both in the sari ornament and in the wedding floral necklace.
Today the chrysanthemum is known all over the world - it has made us fall in love bright colors its petals, unique aroma and variety of shapes and sizes.

The well-known and beloved chrysanthemums belong to the rich family of perennial and annual flowering plants, the Asteraceae (Asteraceae), represented by more than 200 species. This amazing flower has a Greek name, which means “golden flower” - golden tones are present in almost any color of chrysanthemums.

On the issue of classification of chrysanthemums, the opinions of flower growers different countries They diverge, and that’s not the point. Domestic scientists sort these ornamental plants according to the size of the flowers and divide them accordingly into small-flowered, medium-flowered and large-flowered. For this classification, the timing of flowering and plant height are important. According to the timing of flowering, chrysanthemums are divided into early, middle, mid-late and late.

Chrysanthemum lovers can maintain a “chrysanthemum ball” glowing with all the colors of the rainbow, from the end of June to November (we are talking about the southern regions), which depends on fragmentary frosts in late October and early November, which chrysanthemums cannot survive

Care and cultivation of chrysanthemum

Considering the heat-loving nature of chrysanthemums, you can only hope for their successful cultivation if you follow simple but mandatory rules for caring for this decorative diva. The most important of them is the place of growth, and it should be at least without lowering the level, and preferably at a slight elevation. The soil for chrysanthemum growth should be slightly acidic or neutral, with drainage ability, and sufficiently fertile, with preference for organic additions in the form of ripe humus, compost or peat. Although the moisture requirements of chrysanthemums are not excessive, they tolerate obvious drought painfully and may die. A prerequisite for a chrysanthemum planting site is a full day of light. The chrysanthemum will show a lack of lighting with elongated, sparsely leafed branches with rare damaged flowers and a delay in flowering.

Considering the increased watering requirements of chrysanthemums in the second half of summer with the onset of a hot period, before the set of flower stalks, watering should be increased. The optimal water for chrysanthemums is river and rain; it is better to let water from a well stand for at least 12 hours.

For chrysanthemums, all types of fertilizer are acceptable, taking into account seasonal requirements: in the spring, to increase green mass, chrysanthemums need a line of nitrogen fertilizers; In summer, for the general growing season, add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which ensure plant immunity and timely, abundant, full flowering. It is important to note that mineral fertilizer solutions should be watered only at the roots, to avoid burning the leaves. Chrysanthemum also responds well to aged organic liquid fertilizers made from mullein and chicken droppings (0.5 liters of viscous organic mass per bucket of water).

Propagation and transplantation of chrysanthemums

If you decide to grow chrysanthemums in winter garden in pots, we must not forget that this is an open ground plant. For this reason, it must be returned to nature annually for the spring-summer and autumn seasons, depending on the timing of its flowering. It is better to root chrysanthemum seedlings in a shallow, moistened trench rather than in a hole at a distance of 30-40 centimeters between them. After planting, to create conditions for successful rooting and growth of chrysanthemum planting material, for this period they should be covered with white non-woven material.

It is easier, more successful and with little hassle to propagate chrysanthemums by dividing the bush, which is best done in the earliest spring, as soon as the weather permits. The chrysanthemum bush for division is dug up in whole or in part, the root soil is partially shaken off and the rhizome is divided into parts with young shoots, which must be planted without delay in prepared holes at a distance of 30-40 centimeters from each other. Sprinkle the seedlings with soil, compact it and, after watering it abundantly, mulch it with ripe humus. Next, do not let the soil dry out during the first week. If there is a danger of return frosts, it is safer to cover with non-woven material.

If there is a need to propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings, then in the spring, as soon as the green shoots grow, cut them into the required amount from 10 to 15 centimeters in length, root them in pots with moist, fertile soil, which each individually can be placed in a mini greenhouse in the form of a transparent plastic bag, tied at the top. Once a week, untie it for watering and a short walk. At the first signs of development, untie the bag for a while and then, increasing the period of walking, accustom the seedling to the new atmosphere, so that transplantation to the main place of growth does not become disastrous.

The possibility of propagating chrysanthemums by seeds cannot be ruled out, which can be sown in May directly in open ground in moist holes under glass, 3-4 seeds each, daily monitoring the appearance of sprouts, when they appear, the glass can be replaced with a covering material, and then removed. With this option, the seeded chrysanthemum will bloom around the beginning of August. You can speed up the flowering period of such a chrysanthemum planting by sowing the seeds first in seedling boxes, followed by picking them into pots in March, so that in mid-late May they are transferred to open ground in their place of growth. With this planting, chrysanthemums will begin to bloom in mid-July, with proper care.

To obtain cuttings in autumn period Transplant the faded chrysanthemum bush into a capacious pot as a mother plant, cutting off all branches to the ground. Keep the pot in a cool room with periodic minimal watering. The root apical shoots that appear in March can be used as cuttings.

Before planting, cut the cuttings obtained in this way slightly with a sharp knife under the lower leaf node to provoke root growth. They need to be planted in a seedling box with a soil mixture of peat, humus and unsalted sand, which should lie on top with a 2-3-centimeter layer, shallowly and cover with glass or place in a large transparent plastic bag to create greenhouse conditions until the shoots take root. For 3 weeks before rooting of the cuttings, it is necessary to keep the mini greenhouse at a temperature of 13-15 plus degrees, and after this, transplant the seedlings into separate small pots.

How ornamental culture With its wide distribution in urban and private conditions, the chrysanthemum is a fairly resilient plant, and all its diseases can only occur if there are obvious errors in caring for it.

Chrysanthemums are susceptible to gray rot, a disease widespread in almost all plant species, which manifests itself in damage to the leaves with light brown spots and rotting of the inflorescences. Affected plants are destroyed by burning.

A fungal disease of chrysanthemum - powdery mildew - appears as a whitish fluffy coating on the leaves, which can be treated by spraying the entire plant as a whole with a copper-soap solution of copper sulfate.

If rust spots and spotting appear on chrysanthemum leaves, which indicates septoria, you should immediately spray it with a systemic fungicide. If root cancer is detected in a chrysanthemum, the plant is destroyed.

Chrysanthemum pests include aphids and spider mites. Aphids can be controlled by washing the top of the plant with soapy water at least once a week. An infusion of pyrethrum will also help, which is obtained from 20 grams of pyrethrum powder and 1.0 liters of water, kept for 12 hours, 50 milliliters of which with the addition of 50 grams of soap diluted in 10 liters of water is enough to spray all chrysanthemum bushes. In flower shops you can buy ready-made and very effective drug to combat aphids, which will obviously save time and provide the plant with the most immediate help.

Spider mites, who like difficult paths, can be dealt with with a water extract of fresh garlic; it is better to resort to ready-made insecticides.

The entire East considers the chrysanthemum a symbol of longevity, but the longevity of the chrysanthemum itself is in the smart and caring hands of the florist. Love the chrysanthemum - it will respond to you with the beauty of its flowering. Chrysanthemums have very high cutting qualities - they can look good in a vase for a month, with proper hygienic care of the vase and water.

Among the huge variety of luxurious flowers, the perennial chrysanthemum occupies a special place. “Queen of Autumn” - this is how both sophisticated breeders and lovers of bright colors and curvaceous forms speak of her. Today we will talk about what varieties and varieties of perennial chrysanthemums are available, and how best to care for these colorful pets. Photos of magnificent chrysanthemums will help you enjoy the riot of colors and choose varieties.

Chrysanthemums: varieties and varieties

It is not for nothing that they say about perennial chrysanthemums that they inspire optimism in a convinced pessimist. After all, these lush and fragrant flowering plants can brighten not only a personal plot, but also the life of a gardener who grows picturesque plants and garden crops.

Every time you buy a bag of an unknown variety, you are surprised by the duration of its flowering, the magnificent colors, the height of the plant, the shape and texture of the petals, as well as the degree of their terry.

Breeders divide chrysanthemums into:

• simple forms;
• large-flowered;
• terry.

There is also a gradation in color, flowering periods, flower size and decorativeness. Many subspecies of chrysanthemums are intended only for subsequent cutting and making bouquets - these are the so-called bouquet chrysanthemums. Their height can vary from 15 to 150 cm. Such a wide range allows you to decorate entire flower beds with the most different cultures that will bloom and delight the eye in different time– from mid-June until the first snow falls.

As for the color of the buds, it is impossible to immediately list all the colors and shades. There is an incredible number of colors that excite the imagination: snow-white and lemon, orange and purple, crimson-red, lilac and emerald.

The historical homeland of chrysanthemums is Northern China, where residents were actively involved in the selection of this amazing and, fortunately, unpretentious garden crop. Thanks to the merits of professional breeders, today it is possible to grow luxurious varieties of perennial chrysanthemums with excellent consumer properties.

The most common and famous variety, “Early Yellow,” is close in decorativeness to Japanese anemones. Today there are about 700 varieties of these garden plants.

1. Very popular spray chrysanthemums, which are equally suitable for arranging the garden landscape and for cutting.
2. There are also feathery double flowers with a very dense and lush planting of petals. Due to this, they take the shape of a ball, completely covering the flower bed.
3. Bristle-shaped chrysanthemums attract attention with their thin and slightly twisted petals, which look like elegant brushes.
4. Pompom varieties chrysanthemums boast a perfect spherical shape. Dense terry, bright colors and long flowering in any growing conditions are the undoubted advantages of this variety.
5. Semi-double varieties include a great variety of shapes, colors and structures. A prominent representative of this group is garden plant with slightly drooping inflorescences. Their center is almost not closed, and along the edges there are petals of the most unexpected shades and shapes.
6. Simple varieties are represented by very elegant and at the same time uncomplicated inflorescences, outwardly reminiscent in shape of a garden chamomile.
7. Perennial chrysanthemums anemone-like varieties easily recognized by the simple shape and slightly convex core of the inflorescence. She seems to rise above the petals and reach for the sun. These are the most delicate representatives of garden chrysanthemums, which smell pleasantly and create a good impression.
8. Spoon chrysanthemums belong to rare varieties. Just by the name you can understand that flowers are somehow magically connected with spoons. The thing is that the shape of each petal resembles a teaspoon.

Chrysanthemums: planting and care in open ground

Perennial chrysanthemums really do not like darkness and high humidity, so it is better to plant them on a small hill and in a sunny place. This will protect you from pulling out the shoots and changing the time and duration of flowering.

Attention! Chrysanthemums have a shallow root system, so drying out the soil is unacceptable!

For planting, it is recommended to use very loose and moisture-permeable soil with a sufficient content of nutrients. If the soil is too dense, it is recommended to mix it with peat or compost. To improve drainage qualities, you can use coarse sand and fine gravel.

Attention! Garden chrysanthemums, which are not at all labor-intensive to grow, prefer a neutral soil mixture.

For planting, choose a cloudy, or even better, rainy day. A hole up to 40 cm deep is watered abundantly and drainage is done. Then the chrysanthemum is placed and lightly sprinkled with earth.

Attention! The plant should not be deeply buried, because the root system grows parallel to the ground.

If they grow low-growing varieties, then you need to worry about additional support in advance.
A couple of days after planting, you can remove the growing point on the crop. After another 3 weeks, the top of the shoot is carefully broken off.

Advice! After planting the plant in the ground, shade it using non-woven material. Make sure that it does not touch the leaves of the plant.

Plant care

When growing garden chrysanthemums in your garden, it is important to remember that watering should be moderate, otherwise the plant will rot from excess moisture. The exception, perhaps, can only be a very dry and hot period.

Attention! Lack of moisture can lead to woodiness of the plant stems and loss of its decorative effect.

You need to take special care of the crop closer to cold weather and frosts (late October). Despite the fact that chrysanthemums are well tolerated low temperatures, it is better to build a frame for them with a film coating. This simple measure will allow you to admire the bright colors and lush blooming of delicate flowers for another month. The frame can be removed by December, and the bushes can be planted in pots and placed on the windowsill in a bright veranda, where the chrysanthemum will bloom until January.

Fertilizer and feeding of chrysanthemums

The plant is fed weekly with mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10. Lush flowering can be obtained by adding a balanced amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to the soil, and green mass can be increased using nitrogen-based fertilizing.

Attention! When applying fertilizer, it is important to ensure that the fertilizer does not get on the leaves and cause them to burn! It’s better to underfeed the plant than to burn it!

Plant propagation

Attention! It is best to propagate in late spring (May), when the likelihood of frost is minimal. The beginning of summer is also a good time to replant the plant.

If you only got the material for planting closer to autumn, then have time to plant it before mid-September so that the first frosts do not break the spirit of the plant. Otherwise, the seedling can be transplanted into a wide, but (very important!) shallow pot, having first trimmed it low.

The container with planted chrysanthemums is placed in a dark place (this can be a loggia or terrace), where the temperature is kept at constant level 4-6 °C. All winter period it is necessary to maintain an optimal level of soil moisture.

At the end of winter, the bushes can be planted in a greenhouse or flower bed, where they should be watered as often as possible. By the end of March, when the shoots have grown a little, you can cut the cuttings and carefully plant them in a box with a mixture of soil, humus and sand, then cover tightly with a sheet of glass. A month later, when the cuttings have taken root, they can be planted in wider containers, and then in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Since a great variety of different microorganisms live in any soil, the plant must be periodically treated with special preparations that will reliably protect against diseases and pests, and root rot. Abundant watering will protect the crop from mites and aphids, which cannot tolerate moisture. Ratibor, Aktara, Fitovermi and other preparations will save the bush chrysanthemum from snails, leaf rollers and caterpillars.

Shrub chrysanthemum: combination with other plants

A perennial garden crop goes well with fruit trees(this could be a mountain ash or a wild apple tree). A good combination is provided by sea buckthorn and barberry growing nearby. Shrub chrysanthemum looks incredibly attractive in company with decorative leaf plants - ivy, lemongrass.
The chrysanthemum looks charming and gentle surrounded by tall perennial plants: dahlia, bush, asparagus and other plants.

Shrub chrysanthemums in landscape design

Lush and bright chrysanthemums are an ideal decoration for any garden and area. With the participation of these plants, you can create luxurious flower beds and mixborders; with their help, clearings and lawns are decorated. Among the bright emerald greenery, the bush chrysanthemum forms expressive spots of orange, purple, and lilac color. Almost all varieties of bush chrysanthemum are suitable for spectacular landscape design.

How to grow a chrysanthemum: video

Types of chrysanthemums: photos