Do-it-yourself mini-excavator: search for drawings, assembly process, video. Excavator with working equipment bucket Detailed drawings of buckets for excavators

With their inquisitive minds and restless hands, folk craftsmen constantly encourage other people to build on their own various types of equipment useful in the household. The craftsmen also paid attention to mini-excavators - these homemade cars popular both abroad and here.

Homemade earthmoving machines are made according to two main design options. The first version is a diagram of a mounted excavator installation on a mini-tractor, and the second is a diagram of an autonomous mini-excavator. In the second case, the excavator can be both self-propelled and trailed - when additional transport is required to deliver this machine to the work site.

The simplest and cheapest option is a mini-excavator model based on a trailer. Its design includes a supporting frame with a wheel pair, with an installed autonomous engine internal combustion, hydraulic drive and specific equipment.

Working with drawings

When we already have drawings of certain structures, we begin to draw up estimates. From it you can see how much money you need to allocate to buy Consumables and spare parts for self-made mini excavator.

Design features of a mini excavator

A good solution is to install a homemade excavator on the T40 or make it yourself from trailer components, followed by installing an engine, tank, and wheel axle from an old car on it. To ensure stability during operation, it is recommended to use additional fastenings. Two support “shoes” will not allow the excavator to tip over - placed on the chassis from the car, it will stand securely when performing work. When selecting a motor, in many cases they use various options compact Japanese or cheaper Chinese internal combustion engines with power up to 15 kW.

The design is built on the following basic elements:
a supporting frame with tracks or in the form of an excavator on a vehicle;
rotary support system;
hydraulic system - with pump, oil filter, tank, manual control lever, hydraulic cylinders, hoses;
two-section boom with bucket.

Hydraulic system

The factory hydraulic system includes 4 elements in the form of a slewing support, a lifting boom, control levers, and a bucket. To obtain a simpler design, only the necessary parts are used: a boom and a slewing ring, which is securely attached to the supporting frame. Any mini-tractor can serve as a frame. To make the units yourself, you need to take 4 hydraulic cylinders. They will allow the boom to rise and fall, make turns and control the bucket. This can be done using hydraulic cylinders that lift the cabins trucks Soviet stamps.

You should not waste time making cylinders yourself, as this is almost impossible to do. It’s better to look into garages and car depots, and you’ll definitely be able to find the right parts.

The question of choosing a hydraulic drive depends only on the financial capabilities of the master who took on the task of assembling the mini-excavator. Typically a gear pump is used, since it costs significantly less than an axial drive unit. At the same time, it has a simple design, due to which any malfunction can be easily eliminated. Homemade mini-excavators are manufactured in many cases with NSh-10 gear pumps and an R-16A distribution unit. To increase the power of a homemade trailed excavator, they often resort to installing two pumps and distributors at once.

How to make a ladle

The bucket is the main working part of the mini-excavator; it bears the maximum load. Therefore, it must be made of high quality material. IN optimal option For the bucket, sheet steel is used, the thickness of which is 6–8 mm.

It is important to pay due attention to the welding of workpieces that have been previously calculated and cut according to the drawings. At the same time, steel plates are used to strengthen the bottom and side walls of the bucket.

For greater functionality of the mini-excavator, high-strength “fangs” should be placed on the front of the bucket by welding - the “fingers” of a caterpillar tractor are perfect for this.

Conclusion

To get the most effective model of a mini-excavator, you need to properly plan the entire work process, evaluate the possibilities of making your own and purchasing ready-made parts. In this case, you need to have certain skills in carrying out welding, metalworking, turning, and other work.

File format: Compass, AutoCAD, Word, cdw, dwg, docx
Number of drawings: 3

Excavator with working equipment bucket

List of drawings: general view of the machine, bucket, sections, specifications.

A backhoe is the main working equipment for developing soil below the excavator parking level. It is used when digging pits, trenches, when planning slopes and filling embankments. Can be used for loading operations. When working with a backhoe, the soil is dug in the direction of the excavator. Hydraulic backhoe excavators can excavate soil above the level of their parking lot, although with less efficiency than a straight shovel.

Initial data:
Excavator weight, t 14.2
Bucket: type 03
- capacity, m3 0.8
Running device:
- crawler type
- ground pressure, kPa 70
Digging parameters, m (not less)
- digging depth 3.3
- digging radius at parking level 7.0
- unloading height 2.5
Design soil:
- type of sandy loam
- density, t/m 3 1.25
- specific resistance to digging, kPa 115

3. Calculation of bucket parameters
4. Definition linear dimensions arrows and handles
5. Selection of hydraulic cylinder sizes
5.1 Selecting the standard size of the bucket hydraulic cylinder
5.2 Selecting the standard size of the handle hydraulic cylinder
5.3 Selecting the size of the boom hydraulic cylinder
6.Pumping and power plant parameters. Selection of pump and prime mover sizes
7. Parameters of the turntable drive and choice of hydraulic motor size
7.1 External loading parameters
7.2 Shear resistance during rotation of the rotary part
7.3 Selecting the hydraulic motor size
8. Parameters of the drive of running devices. Selection of hydraulic motor sizes
9. Excavator performance
Bibliography

Do you think that only a postcard on a New Year grandma from Novy Urengoy? Or a self-sewn bunny for your second cousin’s 2-year-old daughter? But what if we say that everything can be remade, well, except perhaps the wife with whom we lived and lived for 20 years. Yes, everything, even a mini-excavator with our own hands is not a problem today. Don't believe me? Read!

Where to begin?

Of course, with visualization. So that problems associated with the further operation of a mini excavator created by yourself do not bury your time and work forever, you must approach its creation with a clear understanding of what and how to do. After all, having bought a lot of spare parts, having spent countless amounts of time and effort, it is unlikely that anyone will want to eventually realize that their “craft” turned out to be more expensive than a production copy, but at the same time less effective.

After weighing all the pros and cons, the first thing you need to arm yourself with is a drawing. You can either buy it on foreign websites, or spy on the Internet. If you search for the necessary information on foreign sites, remember that, for example, the American measurement system uses inches, not meters. Don't forget to convert some values ​​to others!

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From general to specific

There are two most common methods of creating a mini excavator with your own hands: you can install attachments on a small tractor or build an autonomous homemade mini excavator that can move independently or with the help of other vehicles. The second option is more labor-intensive. You need to make your own frame, install at least the rear axle (can be used from an old car), and the engine. If you feel technically savvy, you can combine engine parts or use Chinese motors from different manufacturers. Just keep in mind that if you assemble parts from different machines, you will have to constantly adjust these parts and make modifications to them.

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One horse, two horse

What about "horses"? The question is reasonable, and the answer to it lies in the purposes and in the work that you will carry out on a mini excavator made by yourself. The calculation of the forces on the hydraulic cylinders for raising and lowering the boom and turning the handle depends on what exactly you are digging, then the speed of movement of the links and the movement of the pistons in the cylinders is determined. Typically, a power of 8-13 horses is more than enough.

Search necessary equipment or spare parts has become even easier - leave it and they will call you back.

Hydraulics. Ours can do this too

In fact, American colleagues in the workshop prefer to install ready-made hydraulics. The option is not the cheapest, but requires the least labor. But our people are not looking for easy ways! Armed with theoretical knowledge, you can try to make hydraulics with your own hands. But we warn you: this process is quite complicated.

So, the hydraulic system of a full-fledged excavator consists of 4 sections (this is the minimum): a rotary platform, a bucket, a boom and a handle. As for the rotary platform, you can refuse it, since complex work, as a rule, is not performed on a homemade mini excavator. We install 4 hydraulic cylinders (this is quite enough to turn and raise the boom and handle, and control the bucket). Hydraulic cylinders from the MAZ or KAMAZ cab lifting mechanism are perfect.

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Working equipment: ready-made or made?

The simplest option is to install a finished boom along with a hydraulic system. You can also install a boom on your homemade mini excavator, for example, from an old front-end loader. If, of course, you have access to it. In addition, it will need to be adapted for earthmoving purposes. Another “simpler” option is to make an arrow from a square pipe with your own hands.

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Bucket: the stronger the better

The bucket is directly the component of the machine that will come into contact with work surface. In order for the mini excavator to serve you with your own hands (we won’t guess how long!) it is recommended to use durable metal. The minimum set is as follows: 2 sides and a bottom. The bottom, which is used as a rectangular plate, is attached to the vertically installed sidewalls by welding. Already tacked to the sidewalls at one edge, it is heated by a burner and gradually bends along the contour of the sidewalls. Don't forget to use pot holders. It is recommended to additionally reinforce the upper edge and bottom with steel plates. After all this has been done, you can weld the teeth.

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Photo source: websiteHas anyone already started teething?

Pump. It can be this way, or it can be that way

When installing a pump, you are guaranteed to ask yourself the question: axial piston or gear? Let's just say that the choice is yours. The first is more expensive, but also more effective. Of the gear types, NSh-10 has proven itself well. You can borrow the experience of Russian enterprises: two NSh-10 pumps and two R-16A distributors, which are connected in parallel. Based on the performance of the pump and hydraulics, the displacement of the fuel tank is selected.

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Getting to the bottom of the philosophical grain

How your DIY mini excavator will dig is a rhetorical question. But, you see, assembled by you yourself, it will definitely have the right to claim even if not the title of a reliable assistant in the household, then certainly the subject of your, now unshakable, pride. So, go for it! And you can rejoice at the successes of others on numerous forums, both Russian-language and foreign.

Photo source: website

Photo source: website

In detail

A single-bucket excavator is also a means of transportation, although it is designed for digging, lifting and raking soil and materials. The chassis of these vehicles is very similar to the chassis of a tank: the same engine and the same caterpillar track.

The excavator has several arms, and the last one ends in a bucket for scooping up soil. Many excavators, like the one shown below, have a heavy steel shield in front to level the area. Same as on crane, An excavator uses hydraulic cylinders to drive its arms and bucket. Other hydraulic motors and control valves located in the cab control the movement of the tracks and dozer shield. The hydraulic cylinders are driven by the same internal combustion engine that moves the excavator tracks.

The main engine drives pumps that create overpressure oil in the hydraulic cylinders, and at the same time the boom extends. The driver in the cab controls the movements of the bucket and shield using levers.

The boom rises and extends as the piston in the cylinder moves upward. And when the piston goes down, the boom shortens and also goes down.

The shoulder cylinder piston controls the movement of the shoulder.

The ladle scoops or pours when the piston of its cylinder is extended or retracted.

Working in an open pit, the excavator can easily move stones and boulders.

Types of Bucket Excavators

The loader uses a huge bucket, which can be rotated at any angle during loading and unloading.

Bulldozer rakes and levels construction sites using a shield fixed in front.

The earthmover scoops up the earth with a blade mounted under the trailer and transports its load to any location.

Plastering is a quick and inexpensive way finishing walls and ceilings. This method has countless advantages, however, applying the solution manually is quite difficult, especially when it comes to finishing works over a large area. A simple device called a hopper bucket (pneumatic bucket or plastering shovel) allows you to reduce time, save material, and at the same time significantly increase productivity. Being, in fact, a textured gun, the device applies plaster to walls by spraying, which gives many advantages over a traditional trowel and spatula. The retail chain offers factory-made models of plastering shovels of various sizes and purposes. We, taking into account the simple design of the device, suggest making it yourself, especially since the materials for the pneumatic bucket are most often right at hand.

What is a hopper bucket and how does it work?

Applying plaster using a hopper bucket greatly increases the speed of finishing work

Before making a hopper bucket, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with its design and operating principle. This will allow you not only to assemble the device according to the provided drawings, but also, if necessary, to make your own adjustments depending on the availability of materials and operating features.

The operating principle of a pneumatic bucket is similar to the operation of a spray gun. When starting finishing activities, turn on the compressor, connect the hose to the gun, fill the hopper with plaster mixture and open the pneumatic valve. Air under high pressure is supplied to the working cavity through the inlet fitting located on the rear wall of the device. Carrying along the particles of the plaster solution, the air flow exits through special nozzles located in the front part of the device. In this case, the plaster is quickly and evenly sprayed onto the wall. The advantage of the bucket-shaped design is that during operation you can scoop the liquid mixture from another container, rather than pouring it from a bucket.

Video: Working with a pneumatic bucket

Bucket design

The diagram of a pneumatic hopper bucket (plaster shovel), presented in the figures, will make it possible to understand all the advantages of the design. Thanks to the slope of the front wall, the plaster can be applied not only to vertical wall surfaces, but also to the ceiling and inclined planes in any direction.

Plastering ladle diagram

It is not recommended to use ordinary sand-cement mixture for plastering ceilings. It is better to use lighter gypsum-based finishing compounds.

The top of the container has a closed part on the compressor connection side. This allows you to avoid spilling the solution when tilting the bucket while plastering the ceilings. When making a device, it is important to keep certain design parameters within certain limits.

Thus, it is not recommended to increase the diameter of the inlet more than 4–5 mm. The distance between the rear and front walls at the bottom of the bucket should be no more than 20 - 25 mm, and the diameter of the outlet nozzle should be from 10 to 15 mm. In this case, the operability of the structure will be ensured by an ordinary household compressor, designed for a pressure of up to 8 atmospheres and an air flow of about 220 - 250 liters per minute. If you increase the distance between the inlet hole and the nozzle, then the power of the air flow will not be enough to push out the mixture under pressure sufficient to spray the solution onto the wall.

The hopper bucket is equipped with a pneumatic valve for ease of operation. To turn on the air supply to the hopper bucket, a manually operated valve is installed, similar to those used in pneumatic guns for pumping air into car tires

. For these purposes, you can use the most ordinary ball valve installed on the air supply hose, however, the first option is more convenient and allows you to instantly stop the supply of the mixture, and this provides additional savings on the solution.

Advantages and disadvantages

• Being a simple and effective device for finishing walls and ceilings, the hopper bucket has many advantages:
• high speed of finishing work;
• the possibility of using unskilled labor;
• versatility (the device allows you to work with building mixtures of any type);
• the use of fibrous impurities and other decorative additives;
• strengthening the adhesion of the solution to the wall due to the high spraying speed;
• efficiency;

low cost.

Requirements for building mixtures

A plaster shovel can be used to work with any finishing materials Hopper bucket is universal assistant

• plasterer and allows you to work with finishing solutions of any type:
• textured paints with increased fluidity;
• cement-sand mortars; cork;
• plaster mixtures
• liquid wallpaper;
• concrete mixtures;

gypsum plasters.

Modified impurities that are added to plaster mixtures can improve their working properties, increase labor productivity and reduce the cost of finishing materials.

Design features of hopper buckets Even this, like a plastering ladle, has several modifications related to the need to work in different planes:

The design of both pneumatic equipment differs only in the lower part. Thus, for a device that is used for wall finishing, the outlet nozzles (or nozzle) are located directly opposite the air duct opening and are oriented perpendicular to the mass of the solution. As for plastering shovels intended for ceiling work, their output of the working mixture is directed at a slight upward angle. This allows you to finish the surface without practically tilting the device towards you. In addition, in this type of bucket, the upper opening on the operator's side is partially closed. This prevents the mixture from spilling out, while the actual absence of a lid will allow you to freely scoop the solution from the container during operation.

The outlet holes of the ceiling plaster shovel are directed at an upward angle

The hopper of factory textured guns is most often made of galvanized or stainless steel sheet. The small thickness makes it possible to lighten the structure, and the use of riveted connections makes it less susceptible to variable loads. In homemade buckets, the container was previously made mainly from thin sheet steel, welding the parts of the hopper together. With the advent of riveting devices, it became possible to make a hopper bucket at home that is completely identical to the factory product.

Technology for applying finishing materials using a plaster shovel

As with manual plastering, before starting to apply the solution, beacons are set, and the surface of the walls or ceiling is cleaned of dust and moistened. If necessary, the surface layer is strengthened with composite primers or reinforced with a special mesh.

When using a hopper, the working mixture is consumed very quickly (in 3–4 minutes more than 50 kg of plaster is sprayed from its nozzle), therefore, before starting to apply the finishing layer, make the necessary supply of solution.

For plastering large surfaces, a conventional mixer will not be enough - it is better to stock up on a mortar mixer or concrete mixer. The preparation of working mixtures is carried out in full accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations indicated on the packaging.

The application of plaster begins without delay, especially if the issue concerns gypsum compositions. Hopper is held with his right hand by the pistol handle, and with his left hand by the bracket on the hopper. Using a ladle as a scoop, scoop the solution from the container and shake off the excess from the outer walls of the hopper. The gun is brought to the wall and the spray trigger is pulled. Smoothly moving the device from bottom to top, from one beacon to another, evenly fill the gap mortar. After this, using a long rule (you can use a flat lath), they move along the beacons, removing excess plaster. Using a rigid mixture has the advantage that it lies perfectly on a vertical wall, does not slip and does not stretch. Besides, a small amount of liquid reduces shrinkage, which makes it possible to plaster in one layer.

Video: Plastering beacons using a hopper bucket

The distance to the walls is determined based on what effect they want to get - textured plaster or smooth surface. In the first case, by selecting the mixture, the required size of “shagreen” is obtained. Additionally, experiment with inlet and nozzle diameters, using multiple nozzles for different finishing effects.

After setting, the plaster is rubbed down and the ladle is washed. The remaining solution is removed manually, and the nozzles are purged with a compressor by placing the hopper in a container of water. If the work is not finished, but simply requires a short break, then you still can’t do without washing. Only after this the instrument is not dried, but left in water.

• plaster applies best to pre-leveled walls, regardless of what material they are made of - brick, concrete, cinder blocks or thermal insulation boards;
• for operation, a pressure of up to 4 atmospheres is sufficient, which can be increased to a value of 6 atmospheres to compensate for the drop in performance at the moment of switching on;
• if it is necessary to apply a thick layer of plaster, the pneumatic bucket is kept at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the wall. A gap of 6–10 cm is considered optimal;
• if the solution is applied as a finishing layer, then the textured gun is kept as far away from the surface as possible;

Sometimes it becomes necessary to plaster hard-to-reach places. In such cases, additional attachments are installed that expand the range of use of the tool.

Manufacturing a hopper bucket of the simplest design

A plaster gun is such a basic design that it can be made in a few hours. All that is required for this is to decide on the size of the device, prepare necessary materials and the tool, after which all that remains is to assemble the bucket and test it in action.

Drawings and dimensions

Despite its apparent simplicity, when making a textured air gun, it is better to use drawings of assembled and tested structures. Of course, the configuration of the bunker can be developed independently, however, the advantage of the drawings presented below is that they take into account the errors of several previous models and the wishes of plasterers. Of course, the dimensions of the device can be changed at your discretion. It is only important to observe proportions and slopes, and also not to forget about limit values parameters of the spray part of the device.

When deciding on the size of the device, do not forget that you will have to work continuously for several hours, all the while holding the ladle with plaster in weight. That is why it is impractical to manufacture equipment with a volume of more than 2–3 liters.

Materials and tools

To make a hopper bucket at home you will need:

• sheet metal with a thickness of 0.4 to 1 mm. You can use either ordinary steel, aluminum or galvanized sheet;
• air gun or steel tube with a diameter of ¼ inch;
• a nozzle, the production of which can be ordered from a turner;
• one or more washers (according to the number of nozzles) with an internal diameter of 10 - 12 mm;
• metal scissors;
• “grinder” (angle grinder);
• electric drill and drill set;
• metal ruler;
• marker.

The bucket can be assembled by welding or riveting - it all depends on availability welding machine or riveter, as well as the material of construction.

Instructions for assembling a plaster gun

1. Transfer the outlines from the drawing to the sheet metal using tracing paper. After this, go over all the lines with a sharp scriber. This will make it possible to maintain their visibility when cutting.
2. Using tin snips or a grinder, cut out the pattern for the hopper. If the size of the workpiece is not enough, the reamer can be divided into several parts.

   If the bunker is made of tin, then you can get by with metal scissors

3. Bend the metal blank of the bucket base along the lines of the bottom plane.
4. Weld the front and back parts of the container to the resulting part.
   

   When using riveted joints at the joints of the bunker parts, it is necessary to make an allowance of at least 10 mm wide.

5. Secure the top handle of the hopper. In the model presented in the diagram, it is on the left, therefore, the main weight falls on the right hand (for a right-handed person). If the tool will be used by a left-handed person, the handle is moved to the other side.
6. At the bottom of the hopper, holes are drilled for the nozzles, which are reinforced on both sides with steel washers.