Models of homemade sauna stoves. Homemade sauna stoves. Carrying out installation work on the installation of the furnace structure

Homemade sauna stoves are always unique, thanks to which the atmosphere in your steam room will always be cozy and homely pleasant. This is creativity in which you put your soul into, and do the work taking into account your personal requirements and wishes. You can decorate a homemade stove as you please, in the photo you can see examples.

However, the appearance of the oven is far from the most important thing to consider when starting to work. The main thing is to fulfill its main function - heating the bath. Many people assemble stoves from different materials using different blueprints, but the most popular model is a wood-fired metal stove, also called a stove-stove.

Homemade metal bath stove: advantages

Metal sauna stove has a number of the following advantages:

• heats up quickly - you can take a bath in a couple of hours after the stove starts heating and there is no need to heat it for a long time;
• low cost of homemade production;
• depending on the amount of welding and how thick the metal was taken as the material for the assembly, the life of the stove can vary from 5 to 25 years;
• if all the requirements for assembling the structure are met, the danger of explosion and smoke will be practically absent;
• the presence of soft steam, which comes out when heating large brick ovens. After the fire, they are able to retain heat inside for a long time, which is transferred to the bathhouse by heating the air around.

However, it is worth considering that the arrangement of a large furnace requires the installation of a capital foundation at the site of its installation, and this is associated with decent costs, however, a small heater does not have such installation requirements.

Despite the fact that the principle of operation of a metal stove-heater is quite simple, in finished form they are very expensive... That is why it will be much cheaper to assemble its simplest model on your own based on the design drawings. If desired, the heater can be equipped with a water heating tank.

Cons of metal stoves

It should be noted that along with the benefits, there are a number of disadvantages applications of a metal bath stove:

Models of metal stoves: photos and drawings

To begin with, consider the project of an ordinary metal stove together with a water tank. For its construction, you will need sheet metal with a thickness of about five millimeters. On the drawings, mark the dimensions of the oven - 500 by 600 by 800 mm and a height of about 400 mm, respectively.

In such an oven you can load up to 150 kg of fuel, thanks to which a steam room with an area of ​​about 12 square meters will be steamed at a temperature of 100 degrees.

In it, the walls can be single or double, equipped with an air gap. The fluid tank can be positioned wherever you deem necessary.

Tip: Line the stove with bricks to reduce the heat that is transmitted as infrared radiation from the stove to the steam room.

Sauna stove combined with kitchen

Another good option for making a homemade metal bath stove is a combined design with a kitchen stove. It is suitable for such types of premises where relaxation room after bath, where you can cook and eat something, or for a sauna room, which is attached to the summer kitchen or to a residential building next to the kitchen.

The firebox of the stove located in the kitchen should be connected to the ashtray on the stove. There should be a door on it, thanks to which it can be heated when the kitchen stove is not used for its intended purpose.

The steam room and the kitchen are separated from each other by a brick partition, and in order to prevent burns from the side of the bath, it should be closed with a sheet of metal and a wooden partition. Then a flame tube is passed through the oven.

A drawing of such a structure should include the following elements:

Materials for a homemade sauna stove

When making homemade heaters, it is best to use black metal type, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm. In this case, its service life is about five or more years. For the production of chambers or water tanks, it is best to use steel with a thickness of about 10 mm.

You can also use a square or rectangular section of metal, but for this you need to make a weld and bend the metal, so for a homemade assembly it will be optimal to purchase a finished pipe or even a metal barrel, provided that the desired proportions are observed.

What the stove is made of

Metal heater consists of elements such as:

The first element is needed for fuel combustion. For its construction, you will need a door for loading fuel and an air hole, in other words, a blower. Each time, ash should be removed from the firebox in time by means of an ash pan - such a grate.

From the firebox, the heat gradually moves to stone bunker... It is needed to ensure heat transfer, while the stones are laid out on the grate, which serves as a connection between the two elements of the furnace. Bunkers can be open or closed. In order to change stones in the bunker and pour water there, a special door should be installed on the side.

And the last element of the design is the water tank. It can be poured through the top, and if there is a need to ensure the drainage of warm water, you can weld a faucet to it at the bottom. It is also equipped with a chimney so that combustion products can be quickly discharged.

Tools and materials for work

So, if you take as a basis a stove-heater with diameters of about 700 mm and a height of 1500 mm upwards, then you will need to cook the following materials for its construction:

• steel sheet with a thickness of 10 mm;
• a metal pipe with a length of 1600 mm and a wall thickness of about 10 mm;
• chimney with diameters from 100 mm and wall thickness of 5 mm;
• metal rod 10 mm thick;
• finished grate;
• loops (8 pcs.);
• latch (3 pcs.);
• tap together with a valve.

Also prepare the following toolkit:

• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• scissors for metal;
• tool for taking measurements.

Assembling a homemade stove-heater

DIY metal stove assembly includes the following steps:

Indoor sauna heater installation

Here is our homemade stove-heater and is ready. However, for it to work, it must be installed. During the installation process of the structure in its proper place consider these rules:

So, we told what constitutes an independent construction of a metal sauna stove. Of course it is extremely difficult job, very difficult for a beginner. But if you take into account all the recommendations and tips, you can get a great job, after which you can invite your friends to visit your home cozy steam room.

Examples of stoves in a bath

There are many metal sauna stoves on the market today, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove into a bath with your own hands. In this article, we will describe in detail, attaching the appropriate photos, how to do this, having our own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in the steam bath and sauna differ significantly from each other. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity as well, since skin burns are inevitable. In this case, the broom in such conditions crumbles in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath has a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and also different approaches to their installation are used. If a sauna is being set up, then it will be necessary to observe the maximum contact area of ​​the furnace body with air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls. Quite often, a camping bath with a stove is done independently.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open stove, located above the firebox, is capable of heating stones up to 200-250 ºС. It allows you to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you need to achieve only 15% humidity.

In the Russian bath, the microclimate is different - low temperatures are reached, and a lot of steam is produced. Moreover, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. This microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. "Dry" steam can be obtained only by heating stones to values ​​over 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, the stones are placed in a firebox, that is, in a closed heater. Sauna stoves with a closed heater are quite effective.

Handmade stoves for a Russian bath

The most important thing when making metal stoves for a bath with your own hands according to drawings is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºС with heated metal walls (read: ""). You will definitely have to overheat, which is accompanied by the radiation of strong infrared waves, in which it is rather difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

• Lining the furnace... The process consists in covering the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay it on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although there is also a narrow chamotte, 3 cm thick. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heater warms up most of all. To get the best stove for a Russian bath, you should immediately design the firebox so that it is enlarged, because most of its volume is diverted to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that hot smoke is generated as a result, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it down by installing a tank or heater on a pipe. A little more difficult - to install a heating shield, passing through which, the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install brick screen around the iron stove for the bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best due to the possibility of temperature control, however, it is less practical, since the back wall is very overheated, therefore it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron bath stove, you need to choose a rather thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A homemade iron stove in a bathhouse quite often begins to burn out precisely from poor-quality seams. In a production environment, this problem is solved using a bent structure. At the top of the oven, they try to minimize the number of seams.

When making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, you will hardly be able to bend 6-10 mm steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains to make extremely high-quality seams.

What is the best size and place for the heater

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of insulation. The size, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, the more there are, the easier it is to generate the required amount of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy a different volume. It has been determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater of 30 × 40 × 30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a metal bath stove with your own hands, you will need to select an individual heater volume, based on the size of the stove. In order to avoid mistakes, it is better to start off from ready-made drawings. When using an experimental approach, it should be borne in mind that the volume of the firebox should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before you build a stove in the bath, it is worth calculating the best location of the stove in the firebox. From practice it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be maintained and equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that it is possible to easily reach the most distant edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, pipes are added to the stove, diluted inside the container, which would reach all the stones. On the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After the pipes have been expanded, they are surrounded by stones. After the water is supplied through the pipes, it falls on the stones in the stove and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel stoves for a bath

Consider a furnace option that will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. For its construction, steel sheets with a thickness of 3 mm are used.

To start the combustion process, the structure provides for an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffeners in the form of corners are rolled to the sides at the top of the firebox.

Consider another scheme by which you can make metal bath stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called gas afterburners. Steel plate is welded to it on the back wall. Air enters the furnace from under the grate, and is fed through the air ducts that go into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the rear wall, preventing it from burning out, and also air is supplied already heated to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume is combustible. If necessary, you will need to find out why the stove in the bathhouse is smoking, and how to fix it.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the furnace and the heating of the stones to higher values. If at the same time dry firewood is used as fuel, then they will be required much less. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently begun to be used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. Having studied her drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design assumes the construction of a firebox with a volume of 30% more than a heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located with an offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties during its installation - it can be interfered with by the ceiling beam. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before making a stove for a bath, you should decide whether you need a steam tank to heat water. Some people adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts claim that heavy steam is generated in this way, so they advise installing the tank in the washing room, and heating the water through a heat exchanger mounted in the firebox, connected with pipes to the tank.

Now let's look at the diagram of a metal stove with a water tank. The design is considered to be quite competently designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a little more distance, thereby warming up the walls of the firebox better. Instead of a tank, of course, you can put stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank at the back of the stove. The chimney is displaced backwards, passing through the tank. Due to the high height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite enough for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to the peculiarities of its location, it can be difficult to close it after water has been supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Sauna stove manufacturing

The main task of the ovens is to bring the temperature to the required values ​​as quickly as possible and keep it at this level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, blowing over the walls, accelerate the heating.

The convector casing is also intended for these purposes. The gap between it and the wall of the furnace should be 1.5-2 cm. Through the gap, air is sucked in, which heats up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make the stove in the bathhouse with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing is made of thin, because it does not undergo overheating.

When placing the stove above the firebox, ventilation holes can be made in the body. In this case, the proportion of air that rises along the walls will be directed into the heater, blowing off the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is perfect for saunas.

Furnace diagrams and drawings

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal stove for the bath, and the firebox itself, must be sufficient for laying large logs. On top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which, as a rule, ranges from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in sizes can be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bathhouse as correct as possible, you should not install a water heating tank. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the humidity level in the sauna, which can lead to burns in extreme temperatures.

There is another option - to install the stove inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, while such an oven can have two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the vaping process is dry, and with a closed lid - in order to generate a larger volume of steam.

When asked how a metal stove differs from a stone one, many answer with a smile and without the slightest hesitation - the material of manufacture. For such an answer, you can put a three on a five-point knowledge assessment system. To get a higher score, familiarize yourself with the main and fundamental differences, this knowledge will be very useful to you when making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands.

The stone kiln is made of heavy bricks and therefore has a large mass. And all bodies with a large mass are characterized by significant inertia - they heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time. For a bath, this is not bad, but only on one condition - the furnace device must provide the maximum burning temperature of firewood, otherwise you will have to heat the premises for a long time.

A metal furnace, on the contrary, has a low mass, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. These features put forward fundamentally new requirements for the firebox, the wood in it must burn as long as possible. This is the only way to keep the oven hot for a long time.

Another important requirement for the firebox is associated with the characteristics of the steel. When only heating up to + 150 ° C, the decomposition of martensite begins, it recrystallizes and polygonizes, the physical properties of the metal change.

Look at the table, at this temperature the metal oven does not change color, it seems to us that everything is fine, but this is no longer the case. Low-temperature tempering occurs at metal temperatures up to + 250 °, steel loses its resistance to dynamic loads.

The dark brown color of the furnace indicates that the metal has heated up to a temperature of + 550 ° C, and at these rates, medium-temperature tempering of steel begins, martensite turns into ferrite and cementite. Crystalline transformations of a metal change its linear characteristics. Have you noticed that sheet metal does not return to its original dimensions after strong heating and cooling? It can swell, lose linearity, etc. The appearance of the stove becomes "very original" and far from the original.

But quite often the metal oven heats up even more and turns bright red. This color appears at a heating temperature of + 900 ° C. And this is already a high tempering, the metal becomes very soft and ductile, the phenomena of permanent deformation increase significantly. The oven may bend and the welds may not be able to withstand the resulting static forces. How to prevent such negative phenomena? It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, but there are ways to minimize it. They will help to increase the operating time of the metal stove and improve the comfort of bath procedures by increasing the time to maintain a favorable temperature in the room.

We are sure that this knowledge will help you minimize the negative consequences of too much heating of a metal furnace. This can be done in two ways: by special preparation of the metal and by the features of the furnace device.

Preliminary preparation of metal

After all the individual elements of the oven have been cut out, release the hottest parts first. The side and upper parts and the door of the firebox are hottest. Heat them in any way until red and cool slowly. After the release, the sheets may warp a little, this is not scary, with a hammer, trim them to their original state. Check the dimensions again, if they have changed within a noticeable range, cut to the desired parameters. This simple method will eliminate the warping of the stove during its operation.

Features of the design of the firebox of a metal furnace

Most metal stoves give out the maximum amount of heat in the shortest time, firewood burns out very quickly, surfaces heat up to high temperatures. It is impossible to maintain a normal and stable temperature in the steam room - you often have to add firewood. The room is either too hot or cold. Why is this happening? Such furnaces in most cases have grates. Their presence is justified in stone ovens, we have already mentioned that these ovens need to be heated quickly. The strong combustion of the flame is provided by a large amount of air entering the flame through the grates.

The grates are made from metal rods, sheet metal with multiple drilled holes or cast iron, differ in the size of the holes, etc.

The firewood lies on the grate, the air flow is not regulated by anything, on the contrary, all measures are taken to increase the draft, which automatically speeds up the combustion process. The upper part of the furnace heats up most of all, slightly less than the side, and the bottom and front part are heated slightly.

Sheet steel prices

Sheet steel

Such a combustion mode has an extremely negative effect both on the duration of the stove's operation and on the comfort of being in the steam room. You have to periodically fill the fire with water, if there is little water, the flame quickly re-flares up, if there is a lot, the combustion may stop altogether. In short, a bath day brings a headache instead of pleasure.

What do we offer? The solution is very simple - do not make grates with a blower, let the firewood lie at the bottom of the stove, and not on the grate. Seal the firebox door as much as possible; you can use an asbestos cord or mineral wool around the perimeter.

Make holes in the door of the firebox with an ordinary movable damper to regulate the amount of air supplied. One bookmark of firewood in such a stove will burn for more than an hour, it is possible to regulate the heating temperature of the surfaces. In addition, the entire area of ​​the stove will be warmed up. Due to the absence of a grate and an ash pan, the work on the manufacture of the furnace has been simplified, and the efficiency and ease of use have increased.

As you can see, all the knowledge was useful to us, they can be used not only during the manufacture of a stove for a bath. We figured out the theory, it's time to move on to practice.

Brief description and dimensions of the metal stove

Our design will have a separate tank for heating water and a heater built into the top of the stove. The flame heats the stove from all sides, which significantly increases the efficiency of the stove. You can take arbitrary sizes, take into account the parameters of the steam room and the number of people washing at the same time. For example, we give the dimensions of our stove.

1. External heater. Width 50 cm, length 50 cm, height 80 cm.
2. Internal heater. Width 40 cm, length 40 cm, height 50 cm. The distance between the walls of the inner and outer heaters is five centimeters around the perimeter.
3. Bake. Width 50 cm, length 90 cm, height 50 cm. You can change the stove length, make it only for an external stove 50 cm long (then the water tank will have to be fixed from the side on stops) or increase the length to increase the volume of the tank.
4. Water tank. Width 40 cm, length 50 cm, height 60 cm. The tank holds 120 liters of water, which is enough for washing three or four people. Of course, hot water must be diluted with cold water.

Instructions for making a metal furnace

Step 1. Prepare materials. For manufacturing, sheet steel is needed, the thicker the better. But this can be very expensive, we recommend using sheets with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

Metal sheets 2 mm

Step 2. Sketch the oven with all dimensions and parts. Count the number of parts and their total area. This will help you determine your need for sheet metal.

Scheme - an example of a sauna stove

Step 3. Transfer the dimensions to the metal, cut out all the elements of the furnace. Strictly observe the angles, they should be equal to 90 °, make the opposite sidewalls as equal as possible. You need to cut the metal with a cylindrical grinder, follow the safety rules. The grinder is a very dangerous tool, you should not joke with it, you can end up with too serious injuries. Burrs after cutting the workpieces should be removed. Recheck the quantity and dimensions of all parts before starting to weld.

Welding furnace

Perform work on a level surface, free the workplace from foreign objects. Let's start with making a heater for the stove.

Step 1. Place two sidewalls on the edge at right angles, start making tacks.

Adjust the current strength, the electric arc should not overheat the metal - the seam will turn out to be uneven and fragile. Tack on a few millimeters, 4 ÷ 5 tacks are enough for one corner. Check the position of the sidewalls at all times. After cooling, the weld leads the sheets to the side, align their position. Check the corners with a square. Grab the two remaining sides of the heater in the same way.

Step 2. Place the two prepared blanks together, correct the corners if necessary and grab the opposite edges of the heater. You have got a heater box, it remains to make the bottom and the lid.

Four connected blank sheets to form a box

Step 3. Grab the bottom and lid. When cutting blanks by hand, it is impossible to achieve ideal dimensions, there will always be deviations. This is not scary, before grabbing the bottom and the lid, install them in such a way that the difference in dimensions is approximately the same on all sides. Slots of a few millimeters will weld without problems. To prevent the lid from falling into the box, put one side on any support, the main thing is that it is thin and does not violate the desired position of the part. Make several tacks on each side of the heater, as always, pay attention to the position of the elements and correct deviations if necessary.

For the bottom of the inner heater, it is better to use a sheet with a thickness of 10 mm. The main "ular" of the flame falls on it, a bottom that is too thin can burn out rather quickly and smoke will begin to flow into the steam room. When the stove box is fully tacked, apply full seams.

Step 4... Make the stove door. Lay the box horizontally and mark out. You can cut a hole with a grinder or welding.

In our version, the heater consists of two parts: an internal and an external one. The outer one should have dimensions around the perimeter more than the inner one by about 10 centimeters for the passage of flame and smoke into the chimney. The inner heater is installed in the outer one on pipes, the diameter of the pipes is arbitrary.

Step 5... Make holes for the pipes in the lower part of the outer heater, the inner heater will stand on them. If you don't have pipes, you can use metal rods or fittings. Make sure the holes are horizontal and at the same height on both sides of the outer heater sides.

In the same way, grab the external heater, stove insert and water tank. Cut holes for firewood in the firebox. We recommend making holes in such a way that the cut parts of the sheet can be used as doors. To do this, make holes 1 cm larger in the firebox than in the heater, from this blank it will be possible to make a door to it - material is saved.

Video - Making a metal stove for a bath (part 1)

Assembly of individual elements of the furnace into a single structure

Step 1. Prepare four plates for welding two heaters. The length of the plates must correspond to the dimensions of the hole in the outer heater.

Step 2. Cut holes for the chimney in the upper part of the outer heater. The dimensions of the hole should correspond to the pipe you have and provide the necessary draft in the firebox.

Chimney prices

chimney

Step 3. Weld metal strips about 2 centimeters high around the perimeter of the hole in the stove for the stove, the dimensions of the opening must correspond to the dimensions of the outer stove.

Weld a 45 × 45 m corner from the inside of the firebox, one side of the corner should go out into the hole for the heater and form a square. The side of the square should be 0.5 ÷ 1 cm smaller than the size of the heater. The structure will rest on these shelves in the oven hole. To increase the sealing of the meta installation of the stove, use sheet asbestos, cut out strips two centimeters wide from it and place between the bottom of the stove and the stops from the corner. The detachable connection will facilitate the installation of the stove in the steam room. The stove structures are made of thick steel, have large dimensions and weight, it is impractical to weld the stove to the stove. It is much more convenient to make it collapsible / assembled, this will facilitate transportation and installation.

Step 4. Weld the firebox door on the hinges. Double seam weld all previously made structures. The seam is best placed outside and inside.

Step 5. Slide the inner heater back into place, it should be on the pipes and upright. Using the prepared plates, connect the holes of the inner and outer heaters. If the fastening of the inner heater is in doubt, secure it from above with pieces of metal, squares or fittings. These fasteners will be hidden, you can use any metal waste.

The hole is covered by a door. Asbestos cord along the perimeter of the door, the cover is bolted

Step 6. Weld on the top cover of the outer heater. Cut a hole in it for the chimney pipe. Check the quality of all seams, correct the gaps if necessary.

The heater is almost ready. Backwardness only to make a technological hole for cleaning the soot falling from the pipe and think over the installation of the furnace. Soot will accumulate on the lid of the inner heater. Make a hole on the side of the outer wall of the stove, close it with a bolted lid, use an asbestos cord for sealing. Gently grind all corners with a grinder, remove burrs.

We suggest installing the oven on metal legs. The height of the legs is at least 40 centimeters, asbestos must be placed below, and a metal sheet on top. These are fire safety rules.

Video - Stove for a bath (stages of assembling a double heater and installing it on a welded combustion chamber)

Video - Sauna stove (final part)

We have already mentioned that each master during the manufacture of the oven can make his own changes and adjustments, taking into account his own preferences and individual characteristics of the steam room. The changes concern not only the dimensions of the furnace, but also its design. Here are some tips for possible use.

Legs are best done in the form of longitudinal sleds - the pressure on the flooring is significantly reduced, the loads are distributed evenly over several floorboards. This is very important, the stove itself is quite heavy, and you also need to bear in mind the weight of stones and water. For the manufacture of legs, any available metal of suitable sizes is suitable, and for the sled, you can take a 50 × 50 mm square. The ends of the slide should not protrude beyond the perimeter of the stove, otherwise you may injure your legs.

On the bottom and on the sides of the stove, you can put refractory bricks - the metal heats up less and the heat stays longer. Refractory bricks are of two types: heat conductive (heavy) and heat insulating (light). The latter are used for the masonry of smelting furnaces, they keep surfaces cold, despite the enormous temperature inside. Make no mistake, don't take such materials. A fire-resistant brick for a sauna stove should conduct heat well, pay attention to this. If you plan to lay bricks, then increase the size of the firebox by the size of the brick.

Refractory brick prices

refractory brick

Furnace and heater doors can be made from plates obtained after cutting holes. To do this, make the cuts as even as possible; use thin discs to reduce the width of the cut. It is more difficult and longer to work with them, but in the end you will still save time - you will not have to waste it on making separate doors. It goes without saying that metal is also saved.

The dimensions of the doors will be smaller than the size of the holes by the width of the cut; the doors can "fall" inside the firebox or heater. To eliminate such situations, you should weld door stops on the back of the holes. You can use narrow strips of metal. It is advisable to weld the stops around the entire perimeter of the holes, and not at several points, in this way you will increase the tightness of closing the doors.

It is better to do it from stainless steel; for welding stainless steel, you need to use special electrodes. Adjust the current of the welding machine specifically for stainless steel, remember that it is more difficult to cook, it requires some experience.

Prices for stainless steel tanks

stainless steel tank

If small children wash in the bath, be sure to make a protective fence around the stove. It can be portable or stationary, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the fence guarantees the safety of children.

If during the operation of the stove it was found that its power is not enough to heat the room - do not be discouraged. The heat transfer performance of the stove can be significantly improved by increasing the effective area. Weld any metal plates on the sides and on top, they will act as radiators-heat exchangers. There is another way to increase heat transfer. To do this, you need pipes curved with an arc with a diameter of about 50 centimeters. Weld them to the sides of the stove, one end of the pipe should be located under the stove, and the other above it. As a result of the temperature difference, draft will appear in the pipes, cold air is drawn in from the floor under the stove and thrown out hot above it. The stove will operate on the principle of the Buleryan stove.

We recommend making an adjustable air supply on the firebox door. The easiest way is to make a blower from a pipe. You will need a piece of pipe about 10 centimeters long and a piece of sheet metal of the same size. Make a hole in the middle of the door for the pipe diameter. Cut a circle out of sheet metal with a diameter that is a few millimeters less than the nominal diameter of the pipe. Drill two holes in the pipe walls, they must lie strictly on the same line and on the pipe axis. The distance of the holes from the end of the pipe is at least half the diameter, otherwise the damper will not completely block the lumen, which will impair the ability to adjust the amount of fresh air supply.

Insert a piece of wire rod of the appropriate diameter into the holes, bend the upper end in the form of a handle. Weld a circle cut out of sheet steel to the wire rod, fix the made damper to the hole in the firebox door.

There is another way to make adjustable door openings. Drill holes with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm in the lower part, the centers of the holes should be in one line. Weld a metal plate on the bottom and top of the holes, the distance between the plates and the door should be equal to the thickness of the latch. The plates will serve as guides for the valve. Open one or more openings as needed while heating the stove.

These are not all possible improvements to the metal stove, think for yourself and do technical creativity. This process is a real pleasure, trust the professionals.

There are many metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in metal welding, you can make the furnace yourself, according to its size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

There is a significant difference between the steam bath and sauna modes. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get a burn, and it will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept in the range of 55-65 ° C, occasionally rising to 70 ° C. At such temperatures, the humidity is "catching up" high - 50-60%.

To meet these different objectives, different approaches are required for constructing a furnace. The sauna requires the greatest contact area of ​​the stove body with the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a stove, but it is small, open, and is usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But you don't need a lot in the sauna - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. You just can't take it anymore.

In a Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and to achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring, the body feels lightness and a surge of strength. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is not less than 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are "packed" inside the firebox - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be borne in mind.

Homemade stoves for a Russian bath

What else should be borne in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to overheat. At the same time, hard infrared radiation emanates from the walls of the furnace and it is hard to be near. The problem can be solved in two ways:

It is also worth talking about the seams. In homemade metal furnaces (in the factory, in principle, too), burnout often begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is circumvented by using bent structures. At the top, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a stove for a bath with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal with a thickness of 6-10 mm, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Stove: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that it is normal). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less amount - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m 3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but provided that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that stones of different rocks have different densities, and, therefore, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately as follows: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - see the design of the furnace.

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. At a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about which part of the firebox is best to place the stone box. All have long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. It is in this place that it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the furnace arch is removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and the fact that water must somehow get there. The service hatch should be positioned so that you can reach the farthest edge with your hand without any problems. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to burn yourself. Typically, a tube or tube system is inserted that extends across the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is covered with stones. When water is fed into it, it spreads over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal bath stoves

This oven is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 mm.

To activate combustion, it is provided to connect an additional air duct laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffening ribs (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend during strong heating.

The following diagram of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to the upper part of the firebox. These are the so-called afterburning furnaces. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. Air from under the grate is supplied to the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace with the help of duct tubes. This is a simple device, it seems, solves two problems at once. First, it cools the back wall, reducing the likelihood of burnout. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part when heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with the heated air, the combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry wood) much less fuel is required. Many long-burning stoves are built on this principle, but it has recently begun to be used in sauna stoves.

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. The dimensions are not indicated here, but it is easier to understand the proportions and location of the various elements.

Volumetric model of a homemade stove made of metal

In this case, the volume of the firebox is about 130% of the volume of the stove. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when constructing a chimney - it can rest against the ceiling beam - you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So what about the location of the pipe - think about it.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is "heavy", and they take the tank to the washing compartment, and the water in it is heated by integrating a heat exchanger into the firebox and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next diagram is a stove in a metal bath with a water tank.

The design is competent - with the help of a "spark arrester" the path of passage of flue gases is longer, it stays in the furnace longer, and heats up the walls better. If you don't want the tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank located at the back of the stove. The chimney is pushed back and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the outlet from the tank will not be high for sure.

The heater is interestingly arranged. It is not very large, but its volume is enough for small and medium steam rooms. It is closed with a lid, which is not very convenient on the one hand: it will be problematic to close the lid after water is supplied to the stones. On the other hand, it is easy to maintain.

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly "catch up" the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow the walls of the oven, accelerating heating.

The convector casing performs approximately the same function. This is a casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the firebox. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It runs along the walls, heats up, cooling the walls at the same time. Then it rises upward, carrying heat through the steam room.

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin one. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If the stove for the sauna is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body for ventilation of the stove. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the stove, blow off the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

Sauna stoves are simpler in design. You need a normal size firebox that can hold large logs. In the upper part, above the upper part of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Installing a water heating tank in the steam room of a sauna is not a good idea. You will not be able to control the humidity and it is easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, there are several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If you wish, you can make a lid on it and such a stove can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry vaping, with an open lid for getting more steam.

Hello! I'll tell you how I built a bathhouse in the country. I built one. Sometimes only (when installing heavy or long parts) I asked someone to help (when installing a frame and rafters).

Well, I'll start in order. To begin with, we determine on the site where the bath will be. We mark the place of the future foundation and start digging.

Digging under the foundation.

Since our site is located on quicksands, the foundation was made more powerful. I bought pieces of reinforcement at the reception point for black scrap metal. I welded a frame out of them and put it on bricks so that the metal does not touch the ground.

Next, we make the formwork so that the foundation protrudes above the surface. For the formwork, I used chipboard from old cabinets. Set it up with straight edges and set it in level along the entire perimeter. This is necessary in order not to display the level with a brick later. We lay a sewer pipe to drain the water.

Next, fill it with concrete. You can bring ready-made concrete with a mixer (this is if there are ways to drive the mixer). In my case, there was no possibility of a mixer entrance. I ordered 1 Kamaz OPGS (Enriched Sand-Gravel Mix). Dumped on the site (by the way, my site is small, only 4 ares). And all the most laborious began. From one end of the site to the bathhouse on a construction wheelbarrow I carry 3 buckets of OPGS + 1 bucket of cement. On the spot I add water and mix it in the same wheelbarrow with a shovel, poured and leveled the finished mixture. Since I did all this alone, it took me 2 days. I thought it was pointless to buy a concrete mixer at that time, but then it turned out it would be better to buy it, because then I poured paths and other trifles. In short, if there is such an idea, buy a mixer, it costs 7-8 thousand. For one and for the stove we fill in the fundamnet.

We are waiting for the poured foundation to grab and get stronger and begin to lay out the red brick plinth. Between the foundation and the brick, I put a layer of waterproofing on it with 2 rows of bricks. When laying bricks, I left 50mm sewer pipes for ventilation and one polypropylene pipe for supplying cold water.

We bring a log house and lay out all the logs in order so that we do not look for the necessary ones later.

Already on the finished brick plinth, I put 2 layers of TechnoNIKOL waterproofing material and began to assemble the frame. I grinded each log with a grinder with a skin attachment. I used jute to seal the joints. They are waiting for them to nail them with a stapler and, when installing the log, they threw it to crush the jute. The blockhouse is assembled. Immediately treated the outside with an impregnation from beetles and weathering.

The blockhouse is assembled.

Rafters and lathing.

Gables.

The dressing room.

Entrance door.

40mm board ceiling. Taped with foil and lined with aspen clapboard, insulated with ecowool on top.

Shelf frame.

The stove is fenced from the log house.

The floors in the dressing room were varnished for yachts.

Well, that's what happened in the end.

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