Is it possible to plaster on foam with cement mortar. How to plaster foam: tips for choosing mixtures and step-by-step work technology How to plaster foam outside the house

The easiest way to insulate a house is to sheathe it with Styrofoam. The material is inexpensive, installation is easy to do on your own, the energy-saving effect is obvious. And in order to protect such a sheathing from the harmful effects of the environment, you need to choose a suitable coating for it. The best option here is the facade plaster, since it does not require large costs, and anyone can master the application technology.

Foam plaster, ready-made options

Facade styrofoam plaster

In addition to practicality, plastering has other advantages: such surfaces are easy to paint and finish with decorative plasters, which makes the facade especially attractive. By choosing the right colors, you can make your home different from the others, it is advantageous to emphasize architectural features or mask flaws. Defects on the coating that have appeared during operation can be repaired without much effort. But in order for the facade plaster to be of high quality initially, you should learn more about which compounds are suitable for this, and how to properly apply them to the foam.

The plaster is made on polystyrene and painted in two shades

Insulated with foam and plastered facade

When choosing a plaster composition, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the foam. This material is not durable, therefore the protective coating must be sufficiently dense and resistant to mechanical stress. Also, the plaster mixture must have high adhesion to the base, since the foam has a smooth surface. In addition, the plaster should be chosen moisture-resistant, plastic, easy to apply and not prone to cracking. But the vapor permeability of the composition does not matter much, since the vapor permeability of the insulation is very low.

A conventional cement-sand mixture meets these requirements only partially, and it is undesirable to use it on foam. Of course, this is the most budgetary composition, but after a year the facade will be covered with small cracks and everything will have to be redone. Therefore, for finishing with foam, it is recommended to use only factory plasters containing special additives.

Cement-sand plaster

The assortment of plasters for foam plastic is quite large, but there are brands that are in special demand: Ceresit, Stolit, Osnovit, Knauf, Ecomix. Manufacturers produce compounds of several types:

• for attaching insulation to the base;
• to create a leveling layer;
• universal.

It is best for a beginner to choose a universal type of plaster that can be used at all stages of finishing with equal efficiency. But even if you prefer to use separate formulations for each process, they should all be from the same manufacturer, and preferably from the same line.

Knauf Sevener	Cement-based universal composition. Possesses good frost resistance (up to 75 cycles), water resistance and excellent adhesion. Consumption ranges from 3.5 to 7 kg / m2
Ceresite ST 60	Ready-to-use acrylic plaster. Designed for the formation of thin-layer decorative coatings. Possesses strength, elasticity, excellent water-repellent properties. Consumption ranges from 2.6 to 4 kg / m2
Stolit AF	Water-soluble polymer-based mixture, structural. Differs in excellent performance characteristics, has a high decorative effect. Consumption is 2.5-3.5 kg / m2
Founding CAVERPLIX T-117	Plaster and adhesive composition. Possesses excellent adhesion to expanded polystyrene, water-resistant, frost-resistant. Consumption is 1.3-1.5 kg / m2

Plastering technology

Materials for work

Foam plaster has its own characteristics. As a rule, the insulation itself is not primed, the plaster compounds adhere to it so well. But to harden the coating, a reinforcing layer is definitely needed, otherwise cracks will appear very quickly. For reinforcement, a fiberglass mesh of various densities, resistant to alkalis, is used. The most comfortable to use is a mesh with a density of 140-160 g / m2 - it provides excellent grip and easily adjusts to the desired shape when finishing corner areas.

Fiberglass mesh

The leveling layer must be primed to increase adhesion between the topcoat and the base, and therefore a primer will also be needed. The choice of composition depends on what kind of coating is planned to be done: ordinary waterproof primers are used for painting, under decorative plaster quartz-filled formulations are required.

The plaster mixture must be bought immediately in full and always of the same brand. This is especially true for decorative plaster. The fact is that each manufacturer has its own manufacturing technology, and the compositions may differ in structure, color, setting time and other characteristics. If you use different plasters on the same plane, after drying, transitions will be visible, and it is not at all easy to remove them.

Additionally, before starting work, prepare the tools:

• short nap roller for priming;
• metal spatulas, narrow and wide;
• plastic float with emery cloth;
• construction mixer;
• plastic corners with a reinforcing mesh.

Tool for plastering walls

Preparation of the base

After finishing the facade cladding, you need to carefully inspect the working area and eliminate minor defects. Empty seams must be filled with polyurethane foam, cut off excess glue with a knife, sand the joints with sandpaper. The surface must be flat, free from protrusions and depressions, free of dust. If the foam slabs are too smooth, experienced builders recommend lightly sanding them or rolling them with a special needle roller. This will increase the adhesion of the plaster to the insulation, and the coating will adhere more firmly.

Foam insulated wall

Fastening the reinforcing mesh

This stage is the most important, since the quality and durability of the coating depends on it. If the mesh is not fixed correctly, the plaster will peel off from the wall during subsequent processing and will fall off in pieces.

Step 1. Start by preparing a solution. Take a bucket, pour water into it with a temperature of 15-20 degrees, then pour in the dry mixture. Here you should strictly adhere to the proportions indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. Stir the mass with a mixer at low speed until smooth, leave for 5 minutes, then mix again. After that, add water or dry components, this can affect the strength of the plaster. If a ready-made composition is used, it just needs to be mixed, in case of settling of particles.

Step 2. The first to trim corners, slopes and areas with a complex configuration. For this, perforated corners with a fiberglass mesh fixed to them are intended.

Reinforcing mesh with corner

Some get by with only the net itself, cutting it into strips 30 cm wide and bending it in half lengthwise. The savings here are negligible, and the strength of the coating at the corners is noticeably lower, so it is better to use the corners.

So, they collect the solution on the spatula and apply it on both sides of the corner to the full height.

A set of mixture on a wide spatula

So far, nothing needs to be leveled, the main thing is that the corner is covered with a solid strip. Next, apply a corner, lightly press it to the surface, check the vertical level. Smoothing, press the profile into the solution along the entire length, and then take a spatula and carefully smooth the mesh from the corner to the sides and down. If necessary, add a little more mixture so that both the mesh and the profile itself are evenly deeper into the solution. The excess mass is removed with a spatula.

Step 3. After reinforcing the corners, proceed to the slopes. First, the corner is applied to the opening, the desired length is measured and the excess is cut off. Then the solution is applied and the profile is fixed in the manner described above. If the width of the slopes is too small, it is more convenient to use the corners and mesh separately. So the mesh will not puff up at the joints and interfere with work. To do this, cover one slope completely with a solution, fix the inner and outer corners, remove the excess mixture with a spatula. Cut a strip of fiberglass mesh 10-15 mm wide less than the width of the slope and gently apply it to the surface. The side edges of the net should not reach the edge of the corners by about 5-7 mm. Smoothing is carried out along the length of the strip, then to the sides.

Applying mesh to all corners (including slope corners)

Step 4. When all the corner zones have been processed, you can proceed to the reinforcement of the planes. Since the height of the outer walls is quite large, it is difficult to fasten the mesh with one sheet. Therefore, it is recommended to cut the material into pieces 1-1.5 m long. The plaster mortar is applied to the surface in a continuous strip, starting from the edge of the wall. In height, this strip should be equal to the length of the net, and in width it should be 5 cm less. The layer is made about 2-3 mm thick.

Mesh reinforcement

They take a piece of mesh, apply it to the wall, level the edges. Then, with a wide spatula, smooth the mesh from the center to the sides and downward until all the material is immersed in the solution. The side edge of the net should remain free for a width of at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that the material does not form rough joints after overlapping.

How the fiberglass mesh is attached to the foam

Cutting off the surplus

Fixing the mesh

Step 5. Having secured the first piece, proceed to the next. Here everything is exactly the same, only the edge of the mesh protruding from the solution must be slightly bent, and the solution must be applied under it too. A new piece is applied with an overlap of 3-5 cm, smoothed with a spatula. After reinforcement, the surface should remain smooth, without sagging, stripes and grooves. Excess solution in the smoothing process is removed with a spatula and applied where it is not enough. It is not allowed to see through the mesh in certain areas, as well as voids under the reinforcing layer. Any defects made at this stage lead to a decrease in the quality of the finish.

Gluing plaster mesh

Bonding reinforcing mesh

Surface grout

No matter how hard you try to smooth the surface during reinforcement, there are still small irregularities that can appear under the finishing layer. To eliminate them, grout is performed using a plastic float with an emery cloth attached to it. The grain size of the skin is selected depending on the type of finish: for painting it is taken with a fine grain, for structural plaster - with a large one.

Sanding block

Grouting is started after the plaster layer has dried, that is, after about a day. The grater is applied flat against the wall, pressed a little, begins to move in a circle counterclockwise. The pressure force should be the same throughout the working process; you cannot rub for a long time in one area. Since the canvas wears out quickly, you will have to change it from time to time. After processing the entire area, the walls are cleaned of dust with a brush.

Finishing alignment

This time, the solution is made more liquid - it should drain freely from the instrument, leaving a translucent solid trace. The mixture is collected on a wide spatula and carefully applied to the wall with a thin layer - about 1-3 mm. It is most convenient to process the surface in squares, and mix the solution in small portions to prevent it from solidifying. At the end of the process, you need to wait until the plaster dries, and then wipe the base again.

Finishing alignment

Leveled wall

At the next stage, the facade is cleaned of dust and primed. For priming, use a short-haired roller and paint brush. The brush is used to process corners, ledges, slopes and other areas where it is inconvenient to work with a roller. The primer is applied in 1-2 layers, depending on climatic conditions.

Decorative plastering

Finishing decorative plaster of walls

So, the primer is dry, you can proceed to the decorative plaster. Prepare the solution according to the instructions, stirring the dry components with water, or simply mix if a ready-made composition is used. Apply it with a wide spatula to the wall from bottom to top, observing the uniformity of the layer. The thickness of the application is usually equal to the size of the grains of the filler contained in the plaster, information about this must be found on the package of the mixture. Plaster is applied in vertical stripes or squares.

Advice. In order for the entire plane to be uniform, without spots and transitions, it is necessary to plaster it at a time, taking breaks solely to prepare the next portion of the solution.

Having distributed the composition over the surface, they begin to form the relief. Most often, special graters are used for this, but you can form a pattern in other ways - with a sponge, a brush with stiff bristles, a spatula. The most important thing is that the texture is the same throughout the entire area, and there are no transitions between areas. If the plaster is different in color, it can still be hidden under a layer of paint, but the relief pattern cannot be masked.

Wall decor roller

How to make a relief with a spatula

Decorative plaster painted in two shades

It is advisable to perform plastering on polystyrene immediately after the seams are dry. The longer the insulation is exposed to the weather, the lower its thermal insulation properties. Moreover, you cannot leave such a house without finishing for the whole winter.

Plastering is necessary in dry warm weather and on a dry surface. The presence of moisture, dust, greasy stains on polystyrene, it negatively affects the adhesion of the plaster to the base, as a result of which the coating very quickly falls off in pieces.

When mixing the solution, strictly observe the proportions, do not add anything other than water. The factory mixes already have all the necessary components, and the presence of impurities will only worsen the quality of the plaster. Also respect the specified application thickness - it is better to apply 2 thin coats than one thick one.

Plastered surface

Decorative plaster can give a home a unique exterior

Video - Facade foam plaster

Video - Plastering slopes on foam

Do-it-yourself facade plaster on foam plastic

The issue of external wall insulation, both in the private sector and apartment buildings, every year is gaining more and more relevance. More and more owners prefer to spend money on external insulation once than to pay huge utility bills annually. Choosing between the assortment of materials for external insulation, more and more stop at foam... This construction material has many advantages: high level of heat retention, low cost, ease of installation. However, you should not neglect the protection from environmental influences when working with material. And plastering will give maximum protection to the foam.

Choosing between the assortment of materials for external insulation, more and more they stop at foam plastic

It is about this method, as the most optimal, for protecting your house from a foam block, or rather its external insulation, you will learn in more detail. Also, you will be presented with the technology of applying a plaster layer to polystyrene, and the features of working with the material.

If the decision has already been made, and from the whole set of materials for insulation you stopped exactly on polystyrene, or on its close relative - penoplex, you need to think over its protection from external destroyers coming from the environment: moisture, sunlight, ultraviolet, high and low temperatures... And we will protect by plastering.

Stages of plastering a surface of foam or foam

To understand the whole process as well as necessary materials, you need to know what stages it includes:

• Preparation of plaster mortar.
• Plaster mesh and its attachment to the surface.
• Troweling works on the plastering grid.
• Layer for leveling the surface.
• Trowelling work on a layer for leveling.
• Surface priming.
• Final work.

If you look in detail at each stage of the work, then you can understand for yourself that the process, although long, laborious, but it can be divided into several days. This is especially true for novice masters who are just trying themselves in plastering works Oh. With a little training and the hands themselves will know what to do, and you will only have to enjoy the process. In addition, this is a great option to save money on attracting a team of professionals to the work, which will perform plastering no worse than you, but will ask for a lot of money.

Preparation of plaster mixes

To work with polystyrene materials, which include polystyrene and the like, it is necessary to use ready-made mixtures specially designed for such work. Different companies producing dry building mixes have several options for such mixes in their assortment. Also, depending on the manufacturer, the price and quality will fluctuate. Over the years, companies such as Ceresit and Ecomix have successfully established themselves. You can use mixtures of these companies or choose cheaper options. But when saving on mixtures, it is worth remembering that the final quality of the work performed depends on the quality of the material. Consider also the fact that you should not use mixtures from different companies in the same area of ​​work, they may differ in structure and color.

It is very convenient to choose a mixture that is versatile. It can be used both as an adhesive for attaching the styrofoam to the wall and as a protective layer. There are companies that have two-type mixtures in their assortment: separately for mounting the plate and separately for protection. When purchasing materials, do not be lazy and read what is indicated on the package, perhaps this mixture will not work for you.

The mixture, which is universal, is used for mounting a special plastering net to the wall, as well as for other plastering work. The material is consumed quite strongly, therefore, with large volumes, it is necessary to stock up on several bags. To apply one square meter of plaster mesh, you will need up to four kilograms of the mixture, and to level the wall, you need six kilograms per square.

The method of preparing the mixture itself is quite simple and is often indicated on the packaging. All instructions must be followed to obtain the highest quality material. To secure the plastering grid, it is best to use a mixture that is not of the thickness recommended by the manufacturer, but a little less often. When the leveling layer is applied, the consistency should be liquid at all, practically draining from the working tool.

In principle, everything is pretty clear with the technology for preparing a solution for plaster. Now you can get down to business and glue the mesh for plastering, because it is she who acts as the main layer in order to apply the plaster.

Installation of plaster mesh to the wall

Before you start plastering the main insulating material - foam, you should make sure that the leveling mixture and the plaster itself have reliable adhesion to the working surface. Polyfoam itself does not have good grasping properties, if you apply plaster to a cut on it, then it will at least crack, but as a maximum it will disappear altogether, and then all the work and costs will go down the drain. To avoid this, it is necessary to use a plaster mesh.

Installation of plaster mesh to the wall

Which mesh should you choose? If you work with external insulation, then the material for facade works... Such a mesh is distinguished by its density, and the denser the mesh, the better the plaster layer lays down. However, there is a small caveat, if the mesh is too dense, then it is quite difficult to work with the corners. It is best to take a plastering grid with a density of 140-160 grams per square meter. Another tip for novice finishers: it is best to take a mesh that is resistant to alkali, due to the fact that the basis of the plaster mixture is cement.

Where to start installing the grid for plastering - the correct answer from the corners. Moreover, not only the corners, but also the slopes of both windows and doors are glued in the first place.

The process of gluing the mesh at the corners:

1. The plastering grid, which is intended for installation in a corner, is a strip, the width of which is 30 centimeters. The length of the mesh will depend on the surface to be treated. If these are slopes, then we are guided by their length, if the corner of the house is about one meter.
2. Next, you need to make a fold in the middle of the grid. This is necessary in order to give a certain stiffness even after the pressure from the mesh leaves.
3. Then you need to arm yourself with a spatula, and with it apply the plastering mixture to the required part: be it a corner or a slope or a door opening. The layer of the mixture to be applied should be quite thin and not exceed three millimeters.
4. After applying the mixture to the corners or slopes, you need to attach the plaster mesh, press it with a spatula and smooth it away from the corner and to the bottom.

The process of gluing the mesh on the walls:

When the corners are finished, you can start gluing the plaster mesh to the walls. Please note that it is necessary to leave parts of the corners not glued, they will be used at the time of joining.

1. Plastering net, sold in rolls, must be cut into pieces, the length of which is no more than one meter. Installation takes place in separate pieces due to the fact that the universal mixture dries out rather quickly.
2. The prepared wall must be covered with a universal mixture, the dimensions of the part to be coated are about 1 meter by 90 centimeters. We need 10 centimeters that remain in order to glue the joints. The mixture is best applied with a small spatula, about 35 centimeters, and the layer thickness is about three millimeters.
3. Further, as in working with an angle, it is necessary to lay the plastering mesh against the wall and press it down with a spatula. Fasten it on the wall with smoothing movements, movements from the center and to the edges, also from above and to the bottom. The mesh itself is almost completely immersed in the plaster mixture, you can completely cover the mesh with the mixture, for this you need to apply it a little on a spatula while pressing down.
4. This must be done with each vertical strip, gradually shifting to the side. Please note that the mesh is laid with an overlap, for the purpose of further processing of the joints. The same docking takes place in the corner locations.

Grouting on a plaster grid

When the process of installing the plastering grid is completed, the resulting layer must be wiped off. This can be done using an ordinary grater, it can be plastic or wooden and is sold in any hardware store. Sandpaper is used as a trowel.

Do not start grouting immediately after attaching the mesh. Let the work surface dry well. If you are making repairs in the warm season, then this will take only a few hours, if it is the autumn period, when it is damp and humid, then it is better to wait a day, or even more.

Grouting on a plaster grid

The grouting process is simple and even a teenager can handle it. By applying light efforts, the working surface is processed in a circular motion. Best done counterclockwise. If wet pieces get on the sandpaper, it should be replaced.

Applying a layer for leveling

The next step on the way to reliable and high-quality insulation of walls with foam is the application of a layer for leveling. As a mixture, you can use a universal mixture for plastering walls. It should be remembered that the leveling layer should only be applied to the previously trowelled surface.

Layer application process for leveling:

1. Arm yourself with a wide spatula, it is better if it is more than 35 centimeters, it is necessary to apply a leveling mixture on its surface. This can be done with a smaller spatula.
2. Carefully, with smooth and confident movements, you need to apply the mixture with a spatula to the wall. If the grout was of good quality, then a layer up to three millimeters thick will be enough for you to level the surface.
3. It is better to shift the joining of the leveling layer away from the places where the mesh joins, so the seams will be less noticeable and of better quality.

Leveling layer trowelling

Nothing new was invented for these works, so we rubbed the layer for alignment according to the same principle as we rubbed the grid. It is also worth remembering that all trowelling works only take place on a dry surface. However, remember that it is best not to let the leveling layer stand, otherwise you will have to rub with special effort. The best period for grouting is from 1-4 days.

How do you know if it is enough to overwrite the leveling layer? It's very simple, rely on your eyesight. When you notice that the layer is quite even and smooth, you can move on to the next section. After grouting the leveling layer, you already have a finished surface, which involves finishing work, for example, applying decorative plaster or texture.

Facade decoration with foam and plaster video

Surface priming

Quite often, inexperienced or novice craftsmen neglect such a stage as a primer, and in vain. The process itself is not only low-cost in financial plan, but also in time, and the benefits of it are invaluable. Initially, the primer absorbs all residual materials after grouting, thereby reducing the absorption of the surface of the applied materials. You can also use an antifungal primer, it will save you from wetting the walls and the appearance of mold, and the finish itself on the primed surface is better.

The primer is applied to the surface with a short-nap roller, you can also use foam rubber. It is necessary to work carefully, avoiding the formation of drips. Next, we wait until the soil is absorbed and dry, after which you can proceed to the decorative finish.

Final plastering work on polystyrene

Decorative plaster is especially popular, it is it that is most used for decoration. It must be applied on a high-quality primed work surface after complete drying.

Decorative plaster application process:

1. Again, we arm ourselves with a spatula and use it to apply the plaster mixture. It is very important to ensure that the layer applied to the surface is the same in all its areas. Also, the thickness of the layer depends on the grain size of the plaster: the larger it is, the denser and thicker the layer is applied.
2. When the layer is applied, it is necessary to form the texture of the plaster. To do this, you can use various special rollers or materials at hand. You can make bark beetle plaster, it looks very interesting and is done quite simply.
3. After creating the plaster texture, you must leave it until it dries completely, after which you can start painting the surface.

Watch a useful video: How to insulate a house with foam. All stages

Now you know all the features of working with foam insulation, as well as its plastering technology. Quite simple and incredible reliable way insulate your home with your own hands.

Copyright © 2018 | When using the site materials, a back link to www.svoimi-rukamy.com is required!

No matter how wonderful and effective the foam insulation is, its durability under climatic attacks is relatively small, today experts estimate the period of degradation and disintegration of foam plastic at a maximum of 18 months. In the best way to preserve your work and house insulation is considered to be the application of facade plaster on foam. Such protection will allow you to preserve the foam insulation of the house, even if the finishing and plastering work was carried out with minimal experience and skills.

What is the best way to cover the foam from the sun?

There are many commercials and advice from would-be experts that foam is not afraid of water and frost, does not react to air humidity, and its only drawback is solar ultraviolet light. In such "tips" it is suggested not to lay the plaster on the foam, but to close it with a screen made of painting mesh and a thin layer of reinforcing glue until better times.

This should not be done if it is planned to finish the facade of the house with foam and plaster, then the whole complex of work must be completed in a maximum of one season, and best of all - in two or three weeks, no more. Polyfoam does not give an airtight layer without plaster, even when laid on good mineral glue and a primed surface of the walls of the house, it retains heat, but allows water vapor to pass through.

The sequence of works when finishing the facade with foam and plaster is as follows:

• The surface of the walls of the building is primed. If the layer of plaster on the brick is relatively fresh and does not stain your hands, then the primer may not be done, but the expediency of such savings is small;
• Stick the foam sheets on the foam or facade adhesive mass;
• Lay a reinforcing underlayer of protective adhesive with a fiberglass mesh on the foam;
• Align the corners of the walls and slopes on the windows;
• Lay a leveling plaster underlay;
• Rub and clean the base, finish the finished wall surface with decorative plaster.

Advice! If force majeure does not allow you to complete the entire scope of work and lay the protective finish on the foam insulation layer, at least lay the mesh with a reinforcing adhesive layer and apply a deep penetration primer with an acrylic base on the dried surface.

All the same, before plastering the foam outside, in the future it will be necessary to apply deep penetration soil, this operation cannot be dispensed with. It does not affect the properties of the foam, since it is made on water based, and it can be very good to protect the facade surface, lined with foam, from water and the sun. But such protection will not replace a full-fledged plaster coating, its durability is from 6-9 months, just until the next construction season.

The process of applying a protective underlayer to the foam is considered one of the most difficult and important stages. In this case, you cannot save on materials and work, otherwise cracks will appear when finishing the facade with plaster on foam plastic. Therefore, we will initially remember about the glue and mesh for applying protective plaster.

Materials for facade plastering

Construction and finishing work are always costs, and sometimes considerable ones. It is quite difficult to count and purchase exactly according to the estimate several types of various plaster mixtures and adhesives, as experienced craftsmen do. Therefore, there is a certain temptation to simplify your life when laying facade plaster for foam insulation.

You can find enough on the market a large number of ready-made adhesives. Famous brands Ceresit, Kreisel, which is simpler - Stolit, Master produce both universal and specialized adhesive acrylic-cement compositions. The former are cheaper, but it is better not to use them. Therefore, for arranging a reinforcing layer for facade plaster for foam plastic, we choose the following materials:

• Special glue for arranging the reinforcing layer of plaster on polystyrene boards. No ceramic adhesives or styrofoam wall stickers, it's a completely different material;
• Fiberglass mesh with a density of 150-160 g / m2 for an alkaline environment. Such a facade mesh has a special protective coating that improves the adhesion of the fibers to the adhesive mass.

The glue itself for arranging the reinforcing layer due to additives has a pronounced alkaline reaction, this allows the glue mass to adhere well to facade walls lined with foam. Any other adhesive mass practically does not adhere or adheres very poorly to the surface of the pressed polystyrene balls.

Laying technology for protective cladding

The procedure for laying out the reinforcing layer can be started almost immediately after the cracks are blown in with foam and the putty spots have dried at the points of installation of plastic fungi on the foam plastic facade. It is clear that before plastering the foam, the surface must be lightly sanded with a trowel to improve the adhesion of the adhesive mass of the reinforcing plaster layer with expanded polystyrene.

We glue the mesh on the foam plastic under the facade plaster precisely and correctly

Immediately about the technique of laying the reinforcing mesh. In fact, facade plaster is obtained from three layers, the weight of the coating on the foam is quite large. Styrofoam can deform, and if the mesh is not laid correctly, cracks will appear on the plaster. Conversely, a well-laid reinforcing sandwich made of glue and mesh is able to hold even the heaviest types of facade plasters on the foam surface.

The most common netting technique is as follows:

• From the general roll, separate mesh canvases are cut along the height of the facade walls with a small margin of 5-7 cm;
• On the surface of the foam, an adhesive mass with a thickness of 3-4 mm is applied to a width slightly larger than the size of the canvas. The front surface is glued from top to bottom, half the height of the run is immediately applied;
• The canvas is laid on the glue layer applied to the foam and pressed into the thickness with a wide spatula. It is necessary to put pressure on the facade surface slightly, rather to stretch and level the canvas;
• The last stage is laying the glue mass on the laid mesh. To glue the second part of the canvas, it is enough to tuck the mesh, fix it on the foam with a pin and do all the same operations. The entire mesh must be hidden under the reinforcing adhesive base of the façade plaster.

The next sheet is laid with an overlap of at least 5 cm, after which it is covered with adhesive and carefully sanded - leveled with a wide spatula. Upon completion of laying the reinforcing plaster, the facade surface should look absolutely flat and flat, without protruding defects from the foam.

Finishing corners and slopes with a reinforcing layer

In any house, there are quite a few problem areas where facade plaster experiences additional loads, these are the corners and slopes of windows. In addition, the foam at the corners usually "plays" slightly, so the corner zones have to be strengthened, the easiest way to do this is by laying an additional layer of mesh or installing plastic perforated corners under the facade plaster.

The inner corners of the walls are always reinforced with an additional patch. To do this, a reinforcing mesh for plaster is always brought a little further than the corner line, about 7-10 cm.After grouting the canvas with a glue mass, an additional tape is cut out of the grid, applied to the corner and glued over the foam with a double layer of glue mass. So that there are no traces of the reinforcing tape on the reinforcing sublayer, which can spoil the decorative finish, the plaster is once again passed with a wide spatula.

It is extremely important to reinforce the plaster with foam on the window slopes. The technique of laying glue on the mesh is similar to the previous case, but there is a nuance - small sections of the canvas, especially under the plaster of horizontal slopes, must be fastened to the insulation with staples.

The outer corners of the façade must always be reinforced with a perforated corner profile. The corner edges of the insulation sheets are too weak to maintain the ideal outer corner profile on the façade plaster. A profile is installed under the facade plaster in this way. On the corner line with a wide spatula, apply the glue mass with an even strip 15-20 mm wide on both sides. The corner profile is pressed into the plaster, and the side sheets are rubbed with a spatula to the adhesive base.

It is best to put the corner profile before plastering the foam, it will be much easier to work with further adjusting and leveling the layer of facade plaster. Moreover, it is easier to install all the small facade details before plastering the foam than to suffer during the plastering process.

More detailed instructions for finishing the facade with foam and plaster are given in the video

Laying the leveling layer

The second step is to align the reinforcement layer with the laid mesh. This must be done, since the facade decor on foam plastic without alignment will look very uneven. If the surface of the walls is primed for painting or a similar finish with facade decor, then the house will lose its entire appearance. A couple of days are taken to dry the reinforced reinforcing sublayer.

The first operation is to grout the surface of the reinforcing plaster with a liquid adhesive mass. Apply a leveling sub-layer with a wide spatula. facade decoration on the walls. The glue is the same, but the consistency is liquid, so as not to load the insulation with the additional weight of the finish. After a day, the thin leveling sub-layer will dry, and you can proceed to the rough finish of the facade surface.

No matter how hard the masters try, all the same, small traces and even subtle contours from the foam and mesh remain on the leveling layer, which must be rubbed with sandpaper. Usually they use emery - "weaving", glued on wooden block... It is impossible to postpone the grout, after a week - two rough plaster sublayer will become as hard as concrete. In addition, the risk of abrasive penetration of the finishing material to the insulation increases.

A detailed process for leveling facade plaster, laid on foam insulation, is shown in the video

Conclusion

Plastering, laid on foam, practically does not differ in appearance from the cement-sand layer on brick or cinder block walls. The last stage, as a rule, involves the installation of decorative facade trim. It all depends on the wishes of the owners, for example, in many cases, in order to reduce costs, the leveling plaster sublayer is not covered with decor, but simply covered with a deep penetration primer. You can return to the issue of decorative finishing in a year or two or three. Moreover, it will already be clear how the foam polystyrene insulation behaves, and whether corrections are needed.

• Brick, yellow, facing
• Which is better vinyl or acrylic siding
• Polyurethane cornices
• Wood-polymer decking board

The constant rise in the cost of fuel and energy is forcing home and apartment owners to look for ways to reduce heating costs. Most effective way insulation of buildings, which allows to significantly save fuel consumption for heating, is insulation with expanded polystyrene and subsequent plastering of the walls.

Wall insulation scheme with polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene is a competitive insulation that has been widely used in the last decade. It is a gas-filled material consisting of pre-foamed granules dissolved in a polymer mass.

Polystyrene foam production

The technology for the production of polystyrene foam is the foaming of polystyrene when exposed to steam and the sintering of pre-foamed granules into large-sized cassettes, followed by cutting them into sheets.

For the production of expanded polystyrene, the following components are required:

Styrofoam plaster scheme.

• expandable polystyrene and other styrene copolymers, granule size 0.4-2.5 mm;
• blowing agents, which are easily boiling hydrocarbons or blowing agents;
• fire retardant;
• dyes and plasticizers;
• saturated water steam with t = 110-170 ° С;
• cold water;
• electricity with a voltage of 330 V;
• equipment for the production of foam.

Polystyrene foam is formed by the steam shock method from suspension expandable polystyrene with the addition of a fire retardant to ensure the fire safety of the material and has the form of small granules with a size of 2-8 mm.

Advantages of the material obtained:

• durability;
• strength;
• moisture resistance;
• low weight of the material;
• low thermal conductivity;
• heat and soundproofing;
• low cost;
• availability.

The production process of expanded polystyrene includes the following stages:

• separation of polystyrene into fractions;
• preliminary foaming of granules;
• drying;
• 12 hours aging of the granules in the hopper;
• baking and forming blocks;
• cutting the block into sheets;
• inspection and dispatch of finished sheets to the warehouse.

The quality of polystyrene affects the characteristics of the finished insulation.

Mesh arrangement for subsequent overlap and seam.

Mesh placement for subsequent overlap and seam

The longer the polystyrene has been stored before being used in the production of foam, the longer it takes to foam and the more difficult it is to achieve the required density of the foam beads.

From the smallest fraction, heavy brands of polystyrene are obtained, and the larger fraction of granules is used to make light grades of insulation. To ensure fire-fighting characteristics, a fire retardant is used. It is a substance that prevents the foam from burning. The quality characteristics of the insulation also strongly depend on the temperature and pressure of the water vapor. Steam is produced using a steam generator.

Foaming of the granules lasts 5 minutes, while the granules increase 20-50 times.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Scheme of internal and external insulation with foam.

For the production of extruded foam, the properties and characteristics of which are significantly better than those of ordinary polystyrene foam, an extruder is used. Inside this equipment, polystyrene granules are melted to form a homogeneous viscous mass. A blowing agent is added to the mass and when it is squeezed out of the extruder, it is converted into a liquid substance, and not into individual granules. The material has strong intermolecular bonds, which makes it possible to obtain insulation characterized by high strength.

The one-piece microstructure of the extruded foam consists of a mass of closed cells that are filled with gas. This material has the following characteristics:

• extremely low thermal conductivity, less than 0.03 W / m;
• high strength and durability;
• low moisture absorption;
• good chemical resistance to acids, gasoline, organic solvents;
• when frozen, it retains its thermal insulation properties.

This insulation is widely used to insulate foundations, basements, house walls and facades, floors, roofs.

Thermal insulation of buildings with polystyrene foam, material shortcomings

Polyfoam as insulation prevents heat loss, does not let dampness into the house, and creates sound insulation. It is possible to insulate the walls of buildings with expanded polystyrene both outside and inside. When insulating the walls from the outside, the foam is fixed with glue or mechanically, then plastering is carried out.

With all the advantages of polystyrene foam, it has some disadvantages that you should pay attention to:

• fragility of the material if the technology of building insulation is not followed;
• can contribute to the formation of mold, if the insulation process is not performed correctly, the material does not "breathe".

Wall insulation scheme for a corner room.

Often in the articles there is information that phosgene gas is formed during the combustion of expanded polystyrene, which does not correspond to reality, since at the moment Russian enterprises produce foam plastic containing fire-fighting additives - fire retardants. The flammability class of such a heater is G1, which does not support combustion (self-extinguishing). Polystyrene foam, which does not include fire retardants, has a G4 flammability class, this type of polystyrene foam burns well and can form burning and melted drops. Since chlorine is not included in the polystyrene foam, there are no prerequisites for the formation of phosgene during foam combustion. Like all burning materials, Styrofoam gives off carbon monoxide, the increased concentration of which may pose a danger to human health.

How to fix the insulation correctly?

The use of polystyrene foam for insulating a house requires insulating it under non-combustible plaster. Before plastering the insulation, it must be properly strengthened.

This requires the following materials and tools:

Floor insulation scheme.

• insulation;
• primer;
• tile adhesive;
• base plank;
• electric drill;
• winder drills;
• knife for cutting sheets;
• buckets for preparing primer and glue;
• mixing nozzle;
• disc dowels;
• building level;
• hammer, spatula, roller.

The insulation is attached to the wall with glue or disc dowels; for reliability, both methods can be combined.

Work order:

The scheme of insulation of the walls of the house with polystyrene foam.

1. The wall is cleaned of mortar residues, dirt and dust. They are primed, if the walls are made of cinder concrete, the primer is done 2 times, they give time to dry. The primer prevents the wall material from absorbing moisture from the adhesive.
2. A plinth strip is attached to the bottom row of plates, which is a C-shaped profile made of perforated metal. The edge of the plank meets the joint line between the plinth and the wall. The plank is fastened with dowels: there must be at least 3 dowels per 1 m of its length.
3. According to the manufacturer's instructions, tile adhesive is prepared, stirred with an electric drill with a mixing nozzle.
4. Along the perimeter of the expanded polystyrene sheet, glue is applied in the form of a strip with gaps for air release. The glue is applied at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge of the sheet, and in the center - locally, the size of the oiled areas is about 10 cm.
5. The sheet is placed with its long side on the plinth strip and pressed tightly against the wall. The verticality of the glued sheet is checked with a construction plumb line. The second row is glued with a shift for dressing. The sheets are cut with a long sharp knife.
6. After gluing, the sheets of the first row are fixed with disc dowels. Holes are drilled into concrete wall to a depth of 50 mm, the top of the dowel must be installed flush with the surface of the foam sheet. This is done with a hammer.
7. After the insulation is attached to the wall, a layer of glue is applied with a spatula. Perforated corners are applied and fixed to the corners of walls and window openings. They protect the edges of the insulation from mechanical stress.
8. Apply on a layer of glue reinforced mesh(mesh size 5 by 5 mm) and roll it in with a roller. Another layer of glue is applied to the mesh. Leave the glue to harden, prime the surface with a primer. After the primer has dried, you can start plastering the walls.

Technology of applying a plaster layer to insulation

Work on plastering polystyrene foam is carried out only in warm weather and without precipitation.

Preparation of plaster solution

Insulation plaster is purchased in the form of a ready-made dry mix. The manufacturer's packaging indicates the composition of the plaster and instructions for preparing the working solution. It is added to warm water in small portions, ensuring constant stirring. An electric drill with a special attachment is used for mixing. The plaster is mixed several times with a holding period of several minutes to obtain the required consistency.

How to apply plaster to insulation sheets?

Before plastering the polystyrene foam, a 2-3 mm thick layer of plaster is applied to the fixed and primed mesh with a spatula. In a circular motion along the mesh, it is rubbed and smoothed with a metal spatula. After that, it is left to dry for 24 hours. After drying, the plaster is rubbed with a plastic float with an emery cloth attached to it. At the end, a 3 mm thick cladding layer is applied to level the surface. After drying for a day, but no later than 4 days later, a layer of plaster is rubbed with a plastic float, primed and painted. You can also plaster the surface with a decorative mixture.

Is it possible to paint the wall mdf panel paper coated? Sheathe plinth wooden house asbestos cement under a round stone

How to plaster foam outside the house? Very often, such material is used to insulate a house inside and outside. Strictly maintained dimensions, characteristics and positive properties allow all work to be performed fairly quickly and efficiently. How to plaster foam plastic will tell the article.

Polyfoam is an environmentally friendly material that provides effective thermal insulation and reliable fire safety. Foam is a polymeric material similar in structure to natural compositions, in which microscopic cells are filled with air or gas.

This structure gives excellent thermal insulation properties to foam, which deservedly makes it popular all over the world. The use of material in the construction of houses as insulation is one of the most inexpensive ways to provide good thermal insulation.

The advantages of foam over other materials are:

• Environmental friendliness and cleanliness, which is regulated by the hygienic conclusions of manufacturers and state standards.
• Low thermal conductivity. The material is 98% air, which is the best natural heat insulator.
• Fire safety... Can stably withstand temperature changes over a wide range, without changing physical and chemical properties... It belongs to plastics, which, like wood, emit water and carbon dioxide... But good quality foam does not support combustion: the fire retardant included in its composition gives the foam a self-extinguishing property.
• Good sound insulation provided by low dynamic stiffness.
• Resistance to microorganisms. Polyfoam does not emit water-soluble substances, does not decompose, when it gets into the ground or groundwater, it does not have a negative effect on natural resources.

Tip: The insulation used in construction from this material should be protected from the interaction of chemical compounds: alcohol, turpentine, paint thinner, acetone, kerosene, gasoline, various resins that can completely dissolve the foam and harm its cellular structure.

• Resistant to bacteria and mold.
• Light weight. The minimum density of the foam has practically no effect on the foundation of the building and its supporting structures.
• Low price.
• Easy to handle and easy to assemble.
• Durability... Its service life is practically unlimited.

When insulating a building with foam:

• The cost of heating the house during operation is reduced.
• The useful area is saved.
• Reduced handling costs.
• The cost of using complex construction machinery and material handling tools is reduced.
• The timing of the construction works and the building is warm and comfortable.

The disadvantages of foam include:

• Low strength. From any point impact on the surface, or other mechanical impact, a dent remains, and sometimes the plate is completely destroyed.
• The material requires protection from the influence of some external factors:

1. ultraviolet rays;
2. humidity.

• From an aesthetic point of view, it is unacceptable to leave a wall lined with only slabs like that. In this case, external finishing of the house is required.

How can you plaster foam

A budgetary and relatively simple way to finish styrofoam with your own hands is to plaster it.

Tip: The foam plaster mix can be applied to boards that are glued together. When laying in lathing cells, the supporting frame is mounted, and the surface finishing is performed with clapboard or other panels.

For finishing the foam, you can use:

• Universal facade plaster, resistant to temperature extremes and moisture... The use of a reinforcing mesh allows you to achieve maximum adhesion of the coating to the surface of the insulation.

Tip: To increase the adhesion of the finishing material and the foam, it should be trowelled with a plastic float, with an emery cloth attached to it.

• Mineral mixtures (see Mineral facade plaster: material features). Such compositions are made on the basis of Portland cements. white, lime hydrate and fillers. The solutions are very durable, adhere well to many types of surfaces, and protect the interior space from fungi and other harmful microorganisms.

Such compositions make it possible to form an excellent texture, to make the walls attractive. Their advantages:

1. low cost;
2. long service life;
3. good vapor permeability, which allows the composition to be used on surfaces with low diffuse resistance;
4. resistance to the appearance of mold, fungi and other harmful microorganisms;
5. no effect on materials of sudden temperature changes;
6. natural origin of the coating, does not pose a danger to humans and the environment;
7. this type of plaster is well combined with foam insulation.

• Acrylic compounds (see Acrylic facade plaster: how to use).

These solutions last longer than the period of operation of the foam, but their disadvantage is that they do not let steam through, which does not allow providing a comfortable microclimate in the interior without the use of special equipment. The material is delivered ready-made, as a water-dispersion mixture.

• Silicone solutions. They are made on the basis of liquid glass. The high cost of the material limits its use, but it is indispensable for buildings located in industrial and other areas with high pollution.

Before plastering the foam, it is checked that there are no gaps between the plates. How and with what to plaster the foam outside? The video shows the whole process in detail.

Tip: It should be borne in mind that the composition cannot be laid in a thick layer, which requires the surface to be made fairly even.

How to prepare a plaster solution

For the preparation of plaster, when using it on polystyrene, it is necessary that the instructions for use located on the packaging of the composition are strictly observed.

Tip: When working with foam plastering compounds, they should be brought to the consistency of a thick "jelly".

Do not use products from different manufacturers for the same building. Similar materials have different components in their composition, which also "behave" differently. They also differ in application.

Compositions can be:

• Universal.
• With limited scope.

It is better to give preference to the first type of coating.

How to install the first layer of plaster

Before plastering on foam, you will need to purchase a special mesh made of alkali-resistant material, usually PVC. This is due to the presence of cement in all plaster compositions, which is aggressive towards many materials.

Mesh laying procedure:

• Cut to the required length of the strip. For this, the height of the wall is measured and a small margin is added.
• With one hand, the strip is adhered to the top, and the mortar is applied with a spatula along the upper edge of the material. Thus, the mesh is "welded" to the foam.
• The first layer is applied up to 5 millimeters thick.
• The solution is applied from top to bottom, while the mesh is captured across the entire width.
• When installing the strips of the mesh, the adjacent one is laid with an overlap of one centimeter, so you need to leave the “tape” free of plaster on the right side.
• With this technology, the entire wall is covered with a mesh.

Tip: First of all, tapes should be laid on corners, slopes, openings of doors and windows, then on the rest of the area.

How to grind the primary layer and make the foam finish

To provide the applied solution with an even, monolithic base, the primary layer of plaster is grinded. To do this, with a scraper, periodically moistened in a bucket with water, not pressing very hard on the foam, the entire surface is leveled and smoothed. At the same time, it is not scary if in some places sections of the mesh appear through the solution.

The photo shows a diagram of the external wall insulation with foam and its decoration.

The procedure for finishing the insulation is as follows:

• After the application of the first layer and its grouting, the second layer is applied, with which the entire wall is finally leveled and, if any, visible reinforcement sections are hidden.
• If the second coat does not give the desired result, the coating is applied a third time.

When plastering polystyrene, it should be borne in mind that this is its "rough" finish, after which decorative plaster will be performed. Therefore, the flatness of the surface is one of the conditions for obtaining high-quality installation surface.

How and what the foam is plastered with, you can get acquainted with all the stages of the work in the video in this article.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the house with foam was, is and will be one of the most popular types of thermal insulation. The popularity of polystyrene is due to its low price - to insulate even a large house from the outside is quite a feasible task for the family budget. The task can be considered completed if the plastering and filling of the polystyrene was carried out by craftsmen or by their own hands.

Is it possible to plaster penoplex and polystyrene - mistakes and misconceptions

Polyfoam, like other polymeric materials, has a very long decomposition time. Scientists talk about the successful testing of slabs of this material under conditions that simulate 80 temperature cycles. How can this be, you ask? After all, everyone around is talking about the fragility of foam. This statement corresponds to the truth only partially - the foam becomes short-lived when directly exposed to ultraviolet radiation (sunlight) and mechanical influence. That is, if you decide to insulate the facade with foam, you should take care of protecting the material from these two factors.

According to experienced craftsmen, if you plaster the foam and carry out repair work in a timely manner, on average, the life of such a facade can be extended to 20 years. And foam plastic for insulation and plaster should be special - brands PSB-S-15, PSB-S-25. The second misconception popular among builders is combustible foam. And again, the statement only partially corresponds to the truth - of course, foam is combustible, but its ignition temperature is almost 2 times higher than that of the same wood, and when it burns, it releases two to three times less thermal energy.

That is, in case of a possible fire, expanded polystyrene, as it is more correct to call this material, gives a minimal increase in the temperature of the walls, and therefore, it is more than suitable for inside and outside. If the technology is followed in the production of insulation boards, as well as their installation, they become significantly safer than other popular materials involved in repair and construction.

Another common myth concerns the lack of benefits from facade insulation and the absence of a significant increase in heat. Indeed, plastering the walls on the foam mounted before this will not make the house warmer by itself, but it will be much easier to heat it - insulated walls retain heat inside the house by 30% better, compared to the absence of insulation. Thanks to the savings in electricity and fuel resources, wall insulation pays off on average in 5 years, after which you will pay significantly less for heating for at least 15 years.

Protective layer for polystyrene - puttying and plastering

The most popular way to protect polystyrene foam from environmental influences is plastering. The essence of the process is to create a reinforcing and protective layer that is able to withstand mechanical damage and completely neutralizes the ingress of ultraviolet radiation.

The whole process of plastering foam is as follows:

• special plaster mixtures are being prepared (ordinary plaster is not suitable here);
• a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of the expanded polystyrene;
• the first layer of plaster is applied;
• the walls are aligned;
• final grout;
• surface primer for decorative plaster;
• finishing with decorative plaster (bark beetle, mosaic).

It would seem that it is quite easy to figure out how to plaster and wipe polystyrene, and this operation can be performed either with your own hands or by hiring a construction team at a reasonable price. In both cases, do not make major mistakes - buy only specialized polystyrene foam mixtures, do not skimp on. If you are determined to do all the work yourself, watch the training videos.

Today, the most trusted manufacturers of plaster for foam and similar materials are firms Ecomix and Ceresit. It is very important that the putty used for the foam at different times is from only one manufacturer. On average one square meter in the process of grouting the mesh, it takes about 4 kg of the mixture, and on the main layer of plaster - up to 6 kg. The finishing trowel layer can be ignored - just take mixes with a margin of 8-10%.

Plaster technology - we work on polystyrene with our own hands

It is a pleasure to work with polystyrene - flat polystyrene plates, kept in strictly defined parameters, are mounted in a matter of hours. But plastering the walls will last longer. We start everything by mixing the mixture - we do it strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer. True, in practice, nevertheless, the kneading for gluing the reinforcing mesh should be done somewhat thinner - in this case, it penetrates better into all the cells.

And for the trowel layer, the consistency should be liquid and fluid at all, which is not written in the instructions.

Plastering mesh is a mandatory attribute in polystyrene plastering. You can find out how it looks from the video. It is thanks to this element that the composition will keep on polystyrene foam. Since the mixture contains cement, the mesh should be chosen from alkali-resistant. The denser the mesh you choose, the easier it will be to plaster with your own hands. Glue the plaster mesh using a universal mixture, starting from corners and slopes.

For convenience, cut strips of the required length (focus on the height of the wall, leave a small margin) and a width of 30-60 cm. Begin gluing from top to bottom, from the top edge of the mesh - holding it with one hand, with the other using a spatula, apply the solution in a solid line along the entire edge ... The layer thickness is about 5 mm. As soon as the mixture grasps, we begin to fix the strip along the entire width, moving from top to bottom.

Keep in mind that the adjacent strip should be correctly overlapped by at least a centimeter, so you should always leave a space free from plaster on the previous strip, as shown in the video. Exactly so, moving gradually along the entire perimeter of the wall, and fix the reinforcing mesh. On level places without corners and slopes, you can cut the material in pieces up to 1 meter wide, no more. You simply will not have time to glue anymore, since the glue mixture dries very quickly.

The next step is to grout the mesh with your own hands. To do this, you need a plastic float with an emery cloth. The procedure is carried out only on the dried layer of plaster, into which the mesh was glued. In hot summer weather, it is enough to wait a few hours, but in damp, cloudy weather - a day. Rub in a circular motion, applying little effort. From time to time, the emery cloth should be knocked out of dust and replaced with a new one.

Be sure to wear safety glasses and a respirator. After completing this stage, proceed to the application of the main leveling layer. For him, you will need all the same plaster mixture and two spatulas with wide and narrow blades. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture to the wider one and spread it over the surface with wide movements. Layer thickness - 3-5 mm. To get started, watch the video with examples of work and practice in a small area. According to the technology, the joints of the sections of the leveling layer should be located as far as possible from the joints of the mesh.

Then it remains to wait until the leveling plaster dries up, and wipe it according to the same principles as the plaster mesh. It is important not to delay with this - you have up to 4 days. Then, every day, the material will become stronger and stronger, and you will have to spend a lot of effort on grouting.

On the prepared (primed) surface of the walls, it is imperative to apply a finishing decorative finish, for example, to throw textured plaster under a fur coat or using the bark beetle technology with your own hands. Many do not consider it necessary to plaster the walls again, however, thanks to this layer, the facade insulation will last an order of magnitude longer.

May 15, 2018
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, decoration of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

If you need to plaster walls insulated with foam, then this review will tell you how to properly organize the workflow and what is needed for this. The work is not difficult and can be done by hand if you are ready to understand the technology and master the plastering work.

Work technology

With all its advantages, polystyrene needs additional protection, since the material is quite fragile and does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation from the sun. The most simple solution is the plastering of the surface, the work consists of several stages:

• preparation of materials and tools;
• leveling the base and preparing it for finishing;
• laying a reinforcing mesh and applying the first layer of plaster;
• surface grouting and priming;
• application of the second layer and decorative wall decoration.

Let's take a closer look at each stage.

Tools and materials

First, let's figure out how to plaster foam. There are several mix options:

Illustration	Description
	Cement facade plaster... The packaging must indicate that the composition is suitable for outdoor use. This option is notable for its low cost and good strength characteristics. Mineral-based composition is suitable for the first layer, for the second one use the options described below.
	Acrylic-based formulations... Not a bad solution, combining average cost and good performance. Most often, the formulations are sold ready-made and may have different fillers that determine the structure. Acrylic plaster can be tinted in the desired color, which is also important.
	Silicate-based mixtures- differ in moisture resistance and good vapor permeability. At the same time, the cost is not very high, the option is available to a wide range of buyers.
	Silicone plasters- most modern version, characterized by durability and excellent performance. They have one big drawback - high cost. At the same time, decorative plaster is very durable, as it creates an elastic layer that is resistant to cracking.

In addition to plaster, you will need other materials:

Illustration	Description
	Facade mesh... When choosing a plaster mesh, pay attention to the following aspects: Density of material... It should be at least 160 grams per square meter, only this option will provide the required surface rigidity; Weaving quality... The cells must be flat - no asymmetry or curvature.
	Front primer... The composition is used to strengthen the first plaster layer and creates an additional barrier to moisture penetration.

The following tool is used for work:

• Plaster trowel... A special tool allows you to quickly and efficiently smooth the surface.
• Mixing solution container... If you have a ready-made composition, then you can not use additional containers.
• Drill with mixer attachment... It is necessary for the preparation of a high-quality solution.
• Needle roller... Used for surface preparation for plastering.

• Spatula or steel float for applying the compound... It all depends on your preferences, it is convenient for someone to work with a grater, and for someone with a wide spatula.

Leveling the base and preparing for finishing

This stage is carried out after fixing the sheets of insulation, which is best glued to a special compound and additionally fixed with special dowels for thermal insulation. Surface preparation is as follows:

• The plane of the walls is checked... Run your hand over the joints and you will see protruding areas. Excess material is removed either with a special plane, or with a spatula or other improvised device.
• If the dowel caps protrude, they need to be deepened... Most often, gently knocking with a hammer is enough; ideally, the fasteners are located just below the plane of the wall.

• If there are gaps between the slabs, they must be repaired.... Best for work polyurethane foam or special adhesive for thermal insulation. The composition is carefully distributed over the voids to fill them and make the surface monolithic.

Don't worry if excess foam comes out, after drying, you can easily cut it off with a construction knife.

• If foam glue comes out of the joints, remove it... For this, any available device is used.
• Lastly, you need to walk along the surface with a needle roller.... It will make many small indentations on the smooth foam and the plaster will hold much better.

Laying the mesh and applying the first layer of plaster

This part of the work consists of the following actions:

Illustration	Description
	Plaster mortar is being prepared... It is best to work with a drill with a mixer, this will save you time and help you achieve best quality mixing.
	Apply a layer of plaster with a notched trowel... The height of the teeth should be 4-5 mm, the composition is evenly distributed in a vertical strip about a meter wide - according to the size of the facade mesh. Using this tool greatly simplifies the work, since you will accurately apply an even layer and remove all excess from the surface.
	The mesh is glued... To do this, a piece is cut out, the length of which is slightly more than the height of the wall, the excess will be cut off later, and you do not have to precisely combine the piece. The strip is pressed in the upper part and is pressed into the surface with a grater or spatula so that the mesh is not visible. If necessary, you can put some more plaster on the top. Work is carried out from top to bottom until the entire strip is hidden by the solution. Subsequent rows are placed with an overlap at the joints of 50-65 mm, the process is repeated.
	The surface is left to dry... In hot weather, 2-3 hours are enough, in cool weather - 4-6. It is also not worth overdrying the walls, as they will rub much worse.

Surface grouting and priming

This stage consists of the following works:

• The surface is rubbed... All outside plastered walls are leveled with a polyurethane float, which must be worked in a circular motion. Try to leave a minimum of unevenness and make the base even and uniform. If dry areas come across somewhere, they can be slightly moistened with a household spray.

If in some places the facade mesh appears on the surface - it's okay, anyway, a decorative layer will be applied on top.

• Primer is applied... If during the grouting process you moisten the surface, wait until it is completely dry. The primer is distributed over the entire leveling layer and strengthens it, and also improves the adhesion of the next layer. If clinker or tile cladding will be made, then a primer is also required.

Application of the finishing layer

There are two options for carrying out work:

• Finish with the same plaster as the leveling layer... In this case, you need to distribute the solution thinly in order to level the surface and reduce the amount of work during the finishing grout. Subsequently, the walls are frayed again. Then you can apply another layer of primer and paint the facade.

• If a decorative composition is applied, then the application technology depends on the type of mixture.... The bark beetle is distributed with a plastic grater, the structure depends on the direction of its movement. Other options are distributed in their own way, the main thing is to understand in advance all the nuances of application. At the end, staining may be needed, and if there was a pigment in the composition, then this is not required.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use when plastering foam and what stages the workflow consists of. The video will tell and clearly show some important points, and if you have questions on the topic, then write them in the comments.

One of the most inexpensive and easy-to-use materials for facade work is expanded plastic. It is used to insulate country cottages, country houses, temporary buildings for more than a decade. This is a proven product, but in itself it needs protection and decoration. Facade plaster on foam plastic, as well as its modern counterparts, is one of the most affordable ways to do this.

In our time of widespread energy savings, insulation of the facade of a building is one of the most important tasks of a good owner. Foamed polymer insulation allows you to reduce energy costs, to do it in a completely affordable way.

Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, penoplex - this is what the sellers of construction stores can offer you. All these materials are made of foamed plastic and have a number of pros and cons when used for installation on external walls. For convenience, we will rely on the most familiar - foam.

The types of foamed plastic insulation are being improved, but their finish is the same.

The advantages of finishing

• The low cost of cladding a home will appeal to any homeowner. Compared to other insulation materials, it wins significantly.
• Small, or rather very small, the weight of the slabs does not give a load to the walls of the building. They can even decorate temporary buildings. This characteristic is important during installation - the sheathing can be done alone, even by a woman.
• Does not deform, does not wear out. Withstands 80 weather cycles.
• Resistant to penetration of water, wind, dust, noise.
• It retains the warmth of the room well. Sometimes it's too good, so it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the material for the area of ​​the house in order to exclude the "steam bath".

What should you pay attention to when performing installation

Here it should be said about the disadvantages, because they will play a role in the choice of plaster compositions.

• Polyfoam has a smooth surface, where finishing mixtures do not fit well. To do the job efficiently, you will have to make reinforcement.
• The material quickly collapses under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so you need to calculate your time and effort. And the plastering process itself cannot be delayed indefinitely - the seams and joints between the sections will be visible.
• When installing, keep in mind that such insulation does not burn, but it smokes with poisonous fumes. Try to check the quality of the wiring, take other fire-fighting measures. In case of fire, the plaster will retard the spread of the flame, but will not be able to completely protect the walls from fire.
• Probably one of the most important conditions for a beautiful, high-quality plastering facade on polystyrene is its preliminary even laying on the walls of the house. If there are large or uneven joints between the slabs, height differences, "hump", etc., then you will not be able to close it even with a thick layer of finishing mixture. On the contrary, all the disadvantages of laying the insulation will be even more visible.

It is necessary to apply a coating on the foam insulation as soon as possible in order to reduce the time of its contact with ultraviolet light.

Types of plaster mixes for working with foam

Getting started with the choice of working compounds, you need to understand which one will fit the foam base. Choose those that have good adhesion to the surface, form a durable coating for future decorative finishes. Good manufacturers produce a whole line of special solutions, powders for working with foam. The complex includes a primer, special glue for reinforcement, leveling mixture, decorative masses for the finishing layer, if you decide to finish the facade with plaster.

Only a universal composition can be used. Then its consumption will be 4 kg for fixing the reinforcing mesh, about 6 kg for the leveling layer. Mixes of the brands Knauf, Tserezit, Stolit, and Economics were most attractive to professional finishers. They represent quality, inexpensive lines of foam plastering products.

Several major brands offer a complete line of styrofoam plastering products

Consider two main types of insulation finishing materials.

• Cement-sand or mineral plasters have excellent adhesive properties, have good strength and wear resistance. They are easy to apply and require almost no special skills. Mineral compositions are the most economical option for finishing the facade, since their cost is lower than similar ones. Some articles mention the "breathing" properties of cement-sand powder plasters, they talk about the advantages of this material. Unfortunately, this fact is a dubious advantage, since the foam does not allow air to pass through. The disadvantages include insufficient elasticity and lack of color or a small range of shades.
• Acrylic counterparts are most preferred. They are somewhat more expensive than the previous material, but they have good elasticity, therefore they do not crack and lie in a more uniform layer. They have a wide range of shades, do not fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation for more than a quarter of a century.

Decorative acrylic plasters

Foam insulation plastering technology

The insulation has been installed, the materials have been purchased, now it remains to complete the work with the proper quality so that the facade will serve for a long time, reliably. When buying good products, following the technology, the finishing layer will last for several decades. Today, formulations contain numerous chemical additives that do not harm humans, but increase the wear resistance of the finished finish. Let us consider in sequence all the steps that must be strictly observed.

Rolling with needles

Preparation for work

Since the wall is already covered with a foam coat, the preparation of the wall is reduced to minimal steps.

Tools for the job

Preparation of the solution

If you decide to use one of the ready-made mixtures that are sold in sufficient quantities in building stores, then a bucket, a stirrer will be superfluous. For dry powder, there is a sequence, mixing proportions. They are indicated in the instructions for the points. It is best to achieve the consistency of sour cream or thick jelly. Too liquid solution, as too thick, is uncomfortable for a full-fledged process. Follow the instructions, everything will be as it should. It is worth paying attention when it is necessary to add water: before or after the powder, this is important.

Important to remember! Do not make too much of the ready-to-use dry powder solution. It becomes unusable after a certain period of time. This is usually 4 hours.

Facade mesh

Reinforcement

Examine the density data when choosing a mesh. It should be tight enough, but not overly. Indicators 140-160 g / m2 are quite suitable. Let's trace the sequence:

Applying glue directly along the mesh makes the plaster thicker but safer

Aligning the first layer

Initial leveling occurs after the adhesive has completely dried. To do this, use a plastic float with sandpaper. First, the mashing takes place with larger grains, and then finer. If you do not know how to do this, then remember the main rule - grouting is done in smooth circular movements, slightly pressing the hand with the tool to the surface.

After that, we begin the main alignment process. It is made with a universal mortar or special leveling plaster. It all depends on what you purchased.

Throwing mortar over the reinforcement

• We collect the solution, spread it along the wall with a spatula with uniform movements. You can do this by throwing plaster over with a trowel - who has any experience of such work.
• The thickness of the layer depends on how thick the adhesive base is. Fluctuations are 1-4 mm. Some masters suggest doing up to 5-6 mm, but this is not advisable, since a decorative finish will be applied on top later. Too thick plaster can cause cracking and shedding.
• After filling the surface with "dimes" of the solution, compare them a little and let them dry for up to 4-6 hours. Probably faster, but this should be studied in the product instructions.
• We make a finishing grout of the surface. Do it in a similar way how we aligned the adhesive layer with the reinforcement. The difference is that we try to erase it to the possible ideal. Experts advise to do the first alignment after 4 hours, and the finishing one in a day.

Important to remember! Alignment should not be carried out after a long period of time, otherwise it will be impossible to do the work efficiently.

Finishing work must be brought to perfection

Padding

After the final stage of leveling, the walls must be primed. Many finishing specialists advise applying a primer before each stage of plastering. This is fully justified. There is never a lot of primer, since it is she who gives the best adhesion to the next layer. Use a special façade mix that comes from the same brand of your choice. The primer is applied with a roller or a wide brush. Look at the packaging for the time it dries completely, this is important. The usual time is one day. Only in a day you can proceed to the next step.

Decorative plastering

Now we come to the most pleasant and responsible stage of finishing work - surface decoration. If you change your mind to glue tiles, paint or lay facade panels, then all that remains is to apply decorative plaster for facades. Purchase your finishing mix from the same manufacturer you chose for the previous steps. It can be mineral, acrylic, silicate or silicone. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main types are described in the corresponding article. The main thing is that no matter what plaster mass you choose, be sure to read the instructions, prepare it correctly.

It can be applied using different devices: roller, spatula, brush, etc. Each option has its own rules. If "Bark beetle" plaster is preferred, then it is smeared so that furrows remain. When finishing "Fur coat" or "Lamb", the mass falls unevenly, should resemble thick curls of wool. In the photo you can see unusual ways applying a finishing compound.

Plaster decoration options

Video tips for plastering insulation with your own hands

The whole process is shown here - from insulation to plastering. Secure the article information and try to do it based on the video material.

One of oldest ways decorating the outer walls of the house - plastering. Facade plaster mixes, which are applied to the foam insulation, give beauty and protection. It is easy to do it yourself, observing all the technological stages sequentially.

Post Views: 124