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Review of tools for laying aerated concrete, making it yourself. Laying gas silicate blocks Trowel for gas silicate blocks

Building a house from aerated concrete is a rather painstaking process that requires considerable effort, certain knowledge and skills in working with building materials and tools. To make the construction of a house as efficient and less tedious as possible, you need to purchase a basic tool for laying aerated concrete.

Building a house from aerated concrete blocks is considered one of the most practical and popular in our time.

The entire set can be divided into two groups:

Basic: trowel bucket, wall chaser, mallet, hacksaw.
Auxiliary: building level, spatula, square, cord.

This is a very important tool for laying gas silicate blocks, designed for convenient and quick application of a thin layer of adhesive composition and its uniform distribution over the surface. The edge of such a trowel has teeth throughout the entire working area.

The trowel-bucket greatly facilitates and speeds up work with horizontal and vertical surfaces of aerated concrete masonry.
Laying aerated concrete blocks cannot be done without a trowel bucket.

Since the work involves the use of heavy solutions, the trowel is made from a fairly thick metal sheet and undergoes a polishing and galvanizing procedure to extend its service life and add aesthetics. appearance.
The variety of shapes and sizes of the trowel is determined by the nature of the work being carried out, so the device can be trapezoidal, with a rounded nose, triangular, angular, toothed, etc.

The width of the toothed blade can also be different, but in this case It is appropriate to purchase according to the block size. This will greatly facilitate the work of the master.
Trowel ladle for can have different design, which is determined by the size of the block, its geometry and other features.

Advantages of a ladle trowel for a gas block:

ensures uniform application glue mixture to the surface of the gas concrete block;

prevents the solution from spreading, so all surfaces of the construction site remain clean;

promotes the creation of thin-seam masonry with a thickness of 3 mm.

Flaws:

insufficiently reliable attachment of the handle to the blade by means of spot welding;

short service life - no more than a year.

Wall chaser for gas silicate blocks

During this time, it is necessary to make grooves in the surface of its walls, which are needed for electrical wiring, laying fittings and small pipes. It is for such purposes that a tool such as a wall chaser for aerated concrete is intended.

The wall chaser can be manual or electric.

Tool manual type has such advantages as simplicity of design, ease of operation, low noise level and insignificant amount of dust. But such a wall chaser can only cope with light cellular surfaces.

To process durable concrete or reinforced concrete surfaces, you will need an electric wall chaser. Only this one will be able to make grooves both in brickwork and in a reinforced concrete wall. Externally, the design of an electric wall chaser resembles grinder, and grooves are created using discs on concrete or stone.

Since in the process of working with a wall chaser, a large number of dust, it is necessary to use products personal protection. These include noise protection headphones, glasses and a respirator to prevent dust from entering your hearing, vision and breathing organs.

Planer for material

Before laying each subsequent row of gas silicate blocks, it is necessary to level the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the walls of the house. For these purposes, use a planer for aerated concrete. In addition, this is used to remove the protruding part of the concrete block.

Outwardly, it resembles a traditional construction trowel. In his wooden base cut into segments of a fine-tooth saw, which are arranged in two blocks positioned at an angle relative to each other. It is this arrangement that allows for cleaning off uneven parts of the block.

Many “craftsmen”, in order to save money, prefer to use a regular carpenter’s plane or semi-joint instead of a branded plane. This will only complicate the work, significantly increasing the time it takes to complete it, since constant breaks will be needed to sharpen the teeth of the plane.

The purpose is to obtain blocks of non-standard size (additional) as a result of sawing them. Only with the help of special corners included in the concrete hacksaw kit is it possible to obtain geometrically correct parts of the block.

If you need to cut a certain number of blocks, you can use an electric bandsaw.

In appearance, the design of a hacksaw for aerated concrete blocks resembles a regular hacksaw, but it is made of more durable materials that protect the tool from deformation during operation.

Other

A mallet is a rubber hammer designed to level the surfaces of a block during installation. Since aerated concrete block is a fragile building material, using a regular hammer would be inappropriate, since its impacts will lead to destruction of the material.

The function of a metal square is to accurately mark a concrete block for sawing and obtaining additional elements. The square has a base and a ruler, on the surface of which there are inch or metric divisions. The scale can be one- or two-sided. On sale, the square can be found in granite, wood, and metal.

A spatula is an auxiliary construction tool that is used to grout joints and chips of a concrete block.

The building level is used to control the evenness of the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the masonry.

A drill with a mixer attachment is necessary for preparing a homogeneous construction mixture. Can be manual or electric.

The list of tools is not too complicated and purchasing it for quality work is simply necessary.

Building blocks manufactured using comparatively new technology aerated concrete materials are rapidly gaining leading positions in the construction of buildings for both residential and industrial purposes. This is primarily due to the ease of working with this building material, its low weight, which significantly reduces labor costs for masonry compared to other similar products, as well as ease of processing.

Even tools for working with aerated concrete can be made independently and without incurring additional costs, which also has a positive effect on the popularity of this material.

On devices for working with aerated concrete blocks It is worth dwelling separately, since they are specific both in design and in the set for work. A tool used by a masonry worker of a standard fired or sand-lime brick, cannot be used when working with aerated concrete blocks. Even, for example, a trowel for aerated concrete is made with one’s own hands, since the industry cannot yet satisfy all the needs of craftsmen for working with this material.

In turn, a mason cannot have a plane or a hand saw for wood in his kit on a permanent basis. But these are one of the main tools when laying walls and partitions from aerated concrete blocks. This is explained by porosity internal structure material, which allows you to effortlessly make changes in the shape of the blocks, as well as make the necessary technological holes and grooves for laying communications.

Features of aerated concrete as a building material

It is also necessary to emphasize such features of aerated concrete as complete non-flammability and ideal environmental friendliness. This allows it to be widely used in the budget construction of schools, hospitals and preschool institutions, the premises of which have special requirements, especially in terms of the environment. In this indicator, it is second only to wood.

The composition from which it is produced makes aerated concrete highly environmentally friendly. It contains cement, sand, lime and aluminum powder, which after processing and the formation of an aerated concrete mixture become completely harmless to the human body.
The noise absorption capabilities are significantly higher than those of brickwork.
The porous structure allows it to be applied to aerated concrete walls any types of finishes, which makes this material universal.

Materials made using aerated concrete technology are not susceptible to fungal and other harmful formations, therefore, they are not afraid of rotting.

It is also not subject to rapid aging and, if laid correctly, can be used for decades.

A set of tools and materials for working with aerated concrete

To lay walls from aerated concrete blocks you will need the following tools:

a bucket-shaped trowel with a width comparable to the width of the block;
a wood saw with hardened teeth, if there is no special blade for cutting aerated concrete blocks;
rubber hammer;
mixer attachment for drill chuck for diluting the working solution;
wall chaser;
plane;
carriage for adhesive composition;
metal grater;
iron square.

Homemade trowel for aerated concrete

From building materials When constructing buildings you must have:

fittings;
wooden beams of various sections;
concrete lintels for window and door openings;
adhesive mixture.

The given lists of tools and materials are basic and cannot reflect the entire scope necessary equipment and related materials.

Technology of laying walls from aerated concrete blocks

The gas blocks are connected to each other in the masonry with a special adhesive solution.

To cut out various fragments for mounting locations of other building structural elements, a saw with hardened teeth is used. With its help, it is easy to cut out a place for installing lintels or for installing rafters and joists for flooring.
At the junctions load-bearing walls And interior partitions, as well as various levels (for example, load-bearing and finishing), the installation of wire dressings is mandatory.

The use of soft wire is due to the possibility of subsidence of one of the jointly connected levels, which, if tied tightly, will lead to deformation or even destruction of the walls.

Tools for applying adhesive

Special adhesive for joining aerated concrete blocks can be applied with a trowel, notched trowel or carriage.

The carriage is the most convenient tool for applying adhesive composition. At the same time, it provides an optimal thickness of the working layer of glue of 3 mm, which allows you not to overuse the mixture, using it sparingly.

The required amount of adhesive mixture is placed in the carriage hopper, and while moving along the surface of the block, it is laid in an even layer through the gear outlet in the lower part.

Among the disadvantages of the carriage, two, but very significant ones, should be highlighted. This is the impossibility of applying the adhesive to a vertical surface and the high cost. These disadvantages lead to the fact that the vast majority of masons prefer to work with a notched trowel and trowel.

These two tools are used together. Using a trowel, the composition is applied to the surface of the block, and with a spatula it is evenly distributed over the surface of the gas block. In this case, the material is applied to both horizontal and vertical surfaces - the technology is the same.

To apply the solution with glue, you can also use a special ladle, which has spatula-like teeth on the lower edge, which allows you to evenly apply the composition. Such a tool costs less than a carriage, but is twice as expensive as a set of trowel and spatula.

Such an exotic tool for a mason as a plane is used to level the top layer of aerated concrete blocks in a laid row. This alignment gives the masonry a finished look and uniformity of the connecting seams.

In this review of construction tools, we will consider only those needed for laying aerated concrete. Other necessary tools, by type of hammer, grinder, jigsaw, hammer drill, concrete mixer and others, we will not consider.

The most necessary tools for laying aerated concrete blocks:

Now let's look at each of these tools in more detail.

Carriage

Carriage for aerated concrete is the most convenient tool in our review. Working with it goes very quickly, and the thickness of the seam is as uniform as possible. During the work process, the carriage is filled with masonry glue and driven along a row of aerated concrete blocks, the glue is evenly distributed along the jagged edge of the carriage.

There are carriages different sizes, and these sizes were created specifically for gas blocks.

Overview of tools for laying gas blocks

Regular trowel and notched trowel

You can use ordinary construction trowel and notched trowel . Apply glue with a trowel and level it with a spatula. This pair can be used to process both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

The disadvantages of these tools are that it becomes more difficult to regulate the thickness of the glue, and this thickness depends on the inclination of the spatula; the greater the inclination, the thinner the layer. You will always need to hold the spatula at the same angle.

Bucket with teeth

Bucket with teeth makes it possible to apply a uniform layer of glue in any direction. A ladle for aerated concrete costs about half as much as a carriage (about 500 rubles).

Aerated concrete grater

If there are unevenness on the blocks, or the height of the blocks differs by a couple of millimeters, then in such cases it will be convenient to use float for aerated concrete , which will even out the unevenness. Thus, the laying of the next row of blocks will be simpler and of higher quality.

You can also use a float to level the horizontal plane of the walls, which simplifies the internal and external finishing Houses.

Wall chaser

Wall chaser for aerated concrete - a tool for creating recesses (grooves) in blocks into which fittings, electrical wiring and other internal communications are laid.

Hacksaw

During construction, aerated concrete blocks will need to be cut many times to create smaller additional elements. For these purposes you will need a hacksaw with large teeth.

Square

For the most accurate cutting of aerated concrete at right angles, use a special metal square .

Rubber mallet

To ensure that the thickness of the adhesive seam between the aerated concrete blocks is the same, and that the block stands exactly at the building level, the blocks must be leveled by tapping them with a rubber mallet.

Grab on aerated concrete

A device for more convenient transfer of gas blocks. It becomes especially useful when laying wide (300-400 mm) and heavy (D600 and above) blocks.

Drill (screwdriver)

If it is necessary to make holes in aerated concrete for fasteners, for example, for anchors or dowels, then it is necessary to use non-impact tools so as not to destroy the already fragile material.

It is better not to use a hammer drill; a regular drill or screwdriver will be quite sufficient.

Construction cord

In aerated concrete masonry, the construction cord is used mainly for laying the first row of blocks. Two blocks are laid on the foundation and leveled at the corners of the house, after which a construction cord is stretched between them, along which further laying of this row will be carried out.

Construction level

High precision electronic device, emitting two lasers, one strictly vertically, the other strictly horizontally. Levels differ from each other in accuracy classes and laser power.

The more powerful the laser beam, the better it is visible, this is especially important on a clear sunny day. In general, the level helps to construct planes at right angles.

Building level

Just indispensable tool, without which no one can do construction site. Construction levels can be mechanical (bubble) or electronic. Different levels differ in accuracy. Often, the more expensive the level, the more accurately it shows. For laying aerated concrete, models of levels in the middle and low price range are quite suitable.

The optimal length of a building level for masonry is 80 cm. But it is not always convenient to use a long level; there are situations, especially inside the house, when a short level (40 cm) would be preferable.

From specific manufacturers building levels, we would advise Kapro . These levels do not need to be double-checked and calibrated; the accuracy is excellent.

Laying aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete is not difficult to install. It takes 2 minutes to cut a block, and the process itself is similar to laying tiles. The main thing is to do the first row correctly. The quality of construction depends on it

You will need:
Materials:
— aerated concrete blocks measuring 400x625x250 mm (RUB 4,248/m 3);
- glue (145 RUR/pack).
Tools:
— construction mixer;
- bucket with a volume of 10 l;
— hacksaw for cellular concrete (saw);
- trowel;
- spatula (tooth size 4x4 or 6x6);
— grinding board for cellular concrete;
- mallet (rubber hammer);
- level;
- spatula (length 60 mm).

The main thing during laying is to ensure that no protrusions appear between the blocks and to remove excess glue. Control the horizontal and vertical position of the blocks using a level and adjust with a rubber hammer (mallet). The quality of construction depends on this.

Don't use regular cement-sand mortar, believing that in this way it will be possible to save money. It's an illusion. The price of a special fine-grained glue is 2.5 times higher than the price of a traditional solution. At the same time, the consumption is 18 kg/m?. This is six times less than the consumption of a classic solution. In addition, the adhesive solution ensures a minimum thickness of the seams between the blocks, which means it prevents the formation of so-called “cold bridges” - breaks in the wall material, which lead to increased heat loss, the formation of condensation, dampness and mold.

Advice:
Glue for aerated concrete is a quick-drying substance, so it must be diluted in small quantities. Preferably - based on 1-2 rows of masonry forward, i.e.

What spatula is used for laying foam concrete?

because it dries within 20-30 minutes after dilution in water.

1. From the blocks, the end part of which will be located outside the wall, we cut off the ridges
2. Add the dry mixture and water to the bucket in a ratio of 6:4. Bring the solution to the consistency of thick sour cream

3. Using a ladle, pour 200-250 g of solution onto the surface closer to the middle of the block
4. Using a notched trowel, rub the solution over the surface of the block so that the glue does not extend beyond the boundaries of the masonry.

5. Lay the block so that it is not beveled relative to the bottom row
6. For final leveling of the block, use a rubber mallet (hammer). The block must be tapped carefully

7. Using a simple spatula, collect the squeezed out glue from the walls and distribute it where it is missing. The seam should be uniform in all places
8. We begin laying the adjacent row. We coat with glue not only the upper surface of the previous one, but also the end part of the side block

9. We lay the block perpendicularly from top to bottom so as not to “smear” the adhesive solution from the surface of the lower masonry
10. Check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If there are irregularities or the seam size is more than 2-3 mm, tap the upper block with a rubber mallet

11. Fill the openings (cavities formed from the hand grips) with glue or foam polyurethane foam
12. If there is a gap in the first row, the value of which is less than the length of the whole block, it is necessary to make an additional block. Measuring the distance

13. We measure a similar distance on the block, make marks and cut along the line, cut the block with a saw
14. Coat the surface of the masonry, install half of the block, and tap it with a hammer. The wall is ready

According to building standards, the thickness of external walls should be 500-530 mm, depending on the density of the aerated concrete used, for internal load-bearing walls - 300 mm, for non-load-bearing partitions - 100-120 mm.

more on the topic:
Innovative building materials
Cladding a house from gas and foam concrete

Trowel for aerated concrete

A trowel, or trowel for aerated concrete, is the tool without which it is impossible to build a cellular house. The fact is that, unlike brickwork, aerated concrete is made using a special adhesive solution. And the high accuracy of the block sizes allows you to minimize material consumption by applying only a 3 mm layer of glue to the previous row. To make this possible, they use a special tool - a trowel for aerated concrete, which is not even difficult to make with your own hands.

Aerated concrete trowel - design features

Choosing aerated concrete tool you should know that, unlike a traditional trapezoidal trowel, an azocrete trowel is a parallelepiped bucket, on the free edge of which there are teeth 4-10 mm high. They set the future thickness of the masonry joint.

To lay the required layer of glue in one go, use a trowel-bucket for aerated concrete with a width of 100, 200, or 300 mm. Which one to choose depends on the size of the block: the width of the working edge of the trowel should be equal to the width of the block. Such a tool is made from expensive stainless steel (this is, in fact, an eternal trowel) or from low-carbon black steel coated with durable paint.

For convenience during work, trowels for aerated concrete are equipped with wooden, rubber or plastic wicker handle holders with a corrugated (or smooth) surface. With this tool, the solution is applied to both vertical and horizontal surfaces.

Using a trowel for aerated concrete prevents the solution from flowing down the sides of the blocks, which ensures the cellular wall is perfectly clean.

DIY trowel for aerated concrete

It would seem that with the abundance of any construction tool in stores, why make a trowel for aerated concrete with your own hands? “Alas, this is not a whim, but an urgent necessity,” say professional masons. And all because manufacturing plants (both ours and foreign ones), for reasons known to them, produce this tool with... a weak point.

This is about spot welding between the aerated concrete trowel bucket and the handle. The weight of the adhesive and the certain pressure exerted by the mason when applying the mortar lead to the fact that sometimes after a month, a seemingly good tool loses its handle - it simply falls off.

To avoid this, many craftsmen prefer to spend an hour, but come to the construction site with a reliable trowel for aerated concrete, made with their own hands. To do this, you need to cut out the development of the future tool from cardboard and, attaching it to a sheet of metal (0.8-1 mm thick), draw the contours with a scriber. Next, use a grinder to cut out the cut and bend the planes using a hammer. And then the seams are welded (although this is not necessary) - connect the surfaces tightly enough.

The greatest difficulty in making a trowel for aerated concrete with your own hands is the precise cutout teeth - the size of the applied layer of glue and, accordingly, its consumption, as well as the thickness of the interblock seams, depend on this.

At home, the trowel handle is made of wood, drilling along its entire length along the axis. Next, a rod is inserted, at one end of which there is a disk cap, and at the other, a thread is cut.

A hole is drilled on the bucket into which a pin is inserted, passing through the entire handle.

Homemade tools and devices for processing aerated concrete

If you have a broken aerated concrete trowel, do not rush to throw it away. In this case, there is no need to perform cutting and cutting operations, and you can immediately begin installing the handle, thereby carrying out simple repairs of the tool.

The adhesive is applied using a specially designed device called a notched aerated concrete trowel. It is a kind of bucket equipped with teeth for leveling the applied layer in place. The more liquid texture of the glue and the need to apply a thin layer makes the use of a trowel a necessity, no other tool is suitable in this case.

Features and benefits of application

The main property of a tool is its shape. Thanks to it the following actions are possible:

Applying a layer of a certain thickness.
The width of the layer is strictly defined and corresponds to the width of the block, which significantly reduces losses.
Applying the glue and leveling it is done in one motion, significantly speeding up the laying process.

Loss of glue is unacceptable, since its price is much higher than the cost of conventional sand-cement mortar.

If there are no losses, then the use of glue will be economically justified, since its consumption is approximately 5 times less than that of a conventional solution.

The thickness of the working layer of glue is about 1-3 mm.

Therefore, the choice of trowel is mainly determined by the width of the blocks used in construction; if it is wider than the blocks, its use is impossible.

For any size of blocks produced by manufacturers, you need to choose your own type of gear tool.

Similarly, the length of the canvas is selected according to the size of the block. Therefore, first we decide on the blocks, and then on the tool.

Available in standard sizes with widths from 75 to 400 mm (working part), as well as models with different numbers and the size of the teeth, the dimensions of which determine the thickness of the layer being formed.

The volume of glue that is scooped up at a time is sufficient to lay several blocks without additional application.

Making a tool that is too large is impractical, since the weight of the glue is quite large, which will create a large load on the trowel handle, which is already the weakest and most overloaded element.

The material for the manufacture of the device is stainless steel; some cheap models are made from ordinary painted steel, which shortens the service life. There are also plastic trowels that can be used for one-time work due to the rather rapid failure of the tool. An improved version of the tool is also used - a trowel-bucket for aerated concrete. This is a carriage that allows you to apply large volumes of the composition and is used for large volumes of construction.

Working methods

The steps are quite simple.

A certain volume of glue is scooped up (or filled with a spatula), which is applied to the surface and to the end cut of aerated concrete blocks while simultaneously leveling the layer using teeth.

Since the width of the trowel is selected in exact accordance with the width of the block, the entire volume of glue is spent on connecting the blocks, eliminating losses.

The thickness of the layer is determined by the size of the teeth; the larger they are, the thicker the adhesive layer will be.

The movement is carried out along the masonry, the entire applied volume must be carefully “combed” with teeth, which guarantees uniform thickness and eliminates gaps between the blocks. Use requires certain skills, but there is nothing complicated here, experience is gained almost immediately. Since the glue layer is quite thin, the formation of cold bridges in winter time is decreasing, which contributes to greater heat retention in the room.

Replacing the trowel with a trowel will only be necessary when laying reinforcement during. And in the case of a structure with formwork made of aerated blocks.

Flaws

The main disadvantage of the device is the fragile attachment of the handle to the body of the bucket. During operation, this unit is subjected to multiple loads, which loosen the connection, causing breakdowns. This deficiency is observed in almost all types of trowels, both steel and plastic.

The main method of troubleshooting is a rivet connection using an additional plate, which increases the connection area and makes it possible to install several rivets. A repaired instrument will last for a very long time, so such modernization makes sense.

Let's make it ourselves: drawings and descriptions

In some cases, purchasing a ready-made trowel can be difficult for a number of reasons. You can get out of this situation by making a trowel yourself, which is quite possible. There are many options for manufacturing the device, from a complete copy of an industrial design made of sheet steel, to the use of a notched trowel, bent to obtain the desired width.

If possible, you can make a tool pattern (reamer), which is applied to a sheet of metal. The development is cut along the contours, fold lines are drawn and teeth of the required size are cut out. To do this, you can use a hacksaw and a file. After this, the workpiece is bent along the intended lines until the required shape is obtained, the joints in in the right places secured by welding. All that remains is to attach the handle, and the tool is ready.

To make a drawing, take a sheet of paper and paper glue. Make the pattern by trial and error. When you are satisfied with the result, transfer the pattern to a metal sheet.

This video shows a version of the pattern and an example of applying glue using a manufactured device:

If there are no materials or welding, you can get by with a regular notched trowel of a wider size than the blocks used. It bends along the edges, forming the desired width. The bent sections will serve as stops that do not allow the tool to be moved to the side. The volume of glue is applied using a regular ladle and immediately leveled with a spatula. This option is somewhat slower in operation, but it allows you to get out of the situation.

Finally It should be noted the ease of working with the trowel, the speed of learning and the quality of work. The simplicity and efficiency of using the tool, combined with its necessity, makes the trowel for foam blocks the main device for high-quality laying of blocks, which determines operational properties the entire building.

Useful video

If you still have questions about applying glue using the tool in question, the video below will help you solve them. Watch from the third minute:

In this review of construction tools, we will consider only those needed for laying aerated concrete. We will not consider other necessary tools, such as a hammer, grinder, jigsaw, hammer drill, concrete mixer and others.

The most necessary tools for laying aerated concrete blocks:

Now let's look at each of these tools in more detail.

Carriage

Carriages come in different sizes, and these sizes were created specifically for gas blocks.

Overview of tools for laying gas blocks

Regular trowel and notched trowel

You can use ordinary construction trowel and notched trowel . Apply glue with a trowel and level it with a spatula. This pair can be used to process both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

Bucket with teeth

Bucket with teeth makes it possible to apply a uniform layer of glue in any direction. A ladle for aerated concrete costs about half as much as a carriage (about 500 rubles).

You can also use a float to level the horizontal plane of the walls, which simplifies the interior and exterior decoration of the house.

Wall chaser

Wall chaser for aerated concrete - a tool for creating recesses (grooves) in blocks into which fittings, electrical wiring and other internal communications are laid.

Hacksaw

During construction, aerated concrete blocks will need to be cut many times to create smaller additional elements. For these purposes you will need a hacksaw with large teeth.

Square

For the most accurate cutting of aerated concrete at right angles, use a special metal square .

Rubber mallet

A device for more convenient transfer of gas blocks. It becomes especially useful when laying wide (300-400 mm) and heavy (D600 and above) blocks.

If it is necessary to make holes in aerated concrete for fasteners, for example, for anchors or dowels, then it is necessary to use non-impact tools so as not to destroy the already fragile material.

It is better not to use a hammer drill; a regular drill or screwdriver will be quite sufficient.

A high-precision electronic device that emits two lasers, one strictly vertically, the other strictly horizontally. Levels differ from each other in accuracy classes and laser power.

The more powerful the laser beam, the better it is visible, this is especially important on a clear sunny day. In general, the level helps to construct planes at right angles.

Building level

Simply an irreplaceable tool that no construction site can do without. Construction levels can be mechanical (bubble) or electronic. Different levels differ in accuracy. Often, the more expensive the level, the more accurately it shows. For laying aerated concrete, models of levels in the middle and low price range are quite suitable.

From specific manufacturers of building levels, we would recommend Kapro . These levels do not need to be double-checked and calibrated; the accuracy is excellent.