Diy ovens diagrams drawings. Do-it-yourself stove for home heating. Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a furnace
Despite the fact that many of them today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing all new models of stoves, more compact, including various functions. Really, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it will be able to help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems like it's too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excessive humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house, comfortable for a person.
Therefore, the search query on how to fold the stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the Internet. Today, even those people who have no stove-maker experience at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If a decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are advised to choose an uncomplicated version of this structure with an understandable order.
In addition to the availability of the structure, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, what area it is designed for heating. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.
Varieties of brick ovens
There are several basic types of ovens - some of them perform only one main task - it is heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions in their "set of capabilities". Therefore, in order to decide on the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.
- the structure is able not only to heat one or two rooms, but also to help prepare food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.
The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall into the living area of \u200b\u200bthe house. Two problems can be solved at once - heating the premises and getting the possibility of cooking in a separate room.
If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also decorative decoration houses.
- The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both involved at the same time. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.
A similar structure is being built both for the main heating of the house, and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own possibility of cooking, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being erected that perform various functions.
On summer cottage in small house it is better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.
- The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for fast food preparation. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.
The main function of this stove is cooking The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.
Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea, even if the electricity and gas supply is cut off.
A lot has been developed different models all listed types of ovens. They can be quite miniature and take up a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.
How to choose the right place to install the oven?
In order for the stove to work efficiently and give off heat to the premises of the house as much as possible, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the correct location for it.
It is especially important to consider this point in the event that the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney must pass between the ceiling beams, and not accidentally stumble upon them, therefore the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.
A stove brick structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.
- To get the most out of the stove, do not place it near outer wall buildings, as it will quickly cool down and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
- Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure may have a different decorative trim, made in a style corresponding to the design of a specific area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
- Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide for reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor in the place of the passage
- When choosing an installation site, it is necessary to provide that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
- To accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended to always choose the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.
Having chosen the place for its installation, you can purchase everything necessary materials and prepare the right tools... The number of materials will depend on the size and functionality of the oven model, and the masonry tools are always the same.
Tools required for masonry work
For work, you will need to prepare a very "solid" set of tools From tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation you will need:
- Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete poured foundation.
- A pick hammer is needed to split and cut bricks.
- Veselka is a wooden spatula used to grind clay and lime mortar.
- A kiln hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded outside the masonry.
- A broom made of bast is designed to clean the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
- A lead scribe is needed for markings in the event that the stove is finished with tiles.
- The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
- Scribe - a rod used for markings.
- A plumb line is a weighted cord designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
- Building angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and inner cornerssince they must be perfectly straight.
- Pliers are used to bend and nibble the wire to fix the cast iron furnace elements in the masonry seams.
- Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dry masonry.
- The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
- A rubber hammer is necessary to level the brick laid on the mortar by tapping.
- (trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has protruded from the seams.
- Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in the joints of masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "under joining", without further facing.
- Manual ramming will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
- Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
- Sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.
- A stand for the convenience of working at a height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.
Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove
The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not contact each other in any way, and even more so - be combined into a single structure... New foundations tend to shrink, which can deform one of them, and this will pull damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.
In the case of erecting a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, a fairly large-scale work will have to be done. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.
If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the chosen model of the stove is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid material for waterproofing on the installation site.
The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as already mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
- If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
- Then, a pit is dug in the underground in the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
- The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic wrap or roofing felt.
- Then, a sand cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and compacted well with the help of a manual rammer.
- The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be between 150 and 200 mm.
- Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will keep the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will allow the slab to dry and harden evenly.
- The foundation should have a height of about 250 mm below the level of the "clean" floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be placed on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
- Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
- The next step into the formwork, to its entire height, is a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected with each other by wire twists.
- Further, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm, you can pour a coarse concrete solution mixed from cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can also use ordinary concrete mortar made of sand and cement.
- If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a thinly mixed solution is laid out on top.
- The filled-in is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the solution and sink it by 15 ÷ 20 mm.
- The surface of the foundation is leveled again and, if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
- Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured solution. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day for the first week, starting from the second day.
- On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.
- To start laying the first row, it is recommended to do on waterproofing material marking, indicating the location of the base of the furnace. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.
After these preparatory work, you can proceed to laying.
Dry masonry
Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar structure, first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the oven and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.
When performing dry masonry, the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows must be observed. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams in small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the real height of the furnace.
As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.
It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams, if the laying is made for joining, and will not be further finished with additional decorative materials.
When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then part or even the entire structure of the furnace will have to be shifted, since a back draft can form, and the smoke will go to the room during kindling.
Having lifted the stove dry before laying the chimney, the structure is disassembled. Moreover, if not only whole, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then during disassembly each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, placing the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick is also put down in each of the rows. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be fitted and laid out in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and put it in the rows of the oven, but already in the solution.
Performing the main laying, two strips are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical joints will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next joint immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.
After pulling out the calibration strips from the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.
Processing of seams "for joining" If the calibration strips were laid on both edges of the brick, then with inside the walls will also remain grooves between the seams. They also need to be carefully repaired, since the seams must be airtight, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.
It is very important, when laying on a mortar, to check each of the laid rows building levelso that the entire structure does not skew.
Simple accessories such as gauge strips will help you masonry neatly with equal joint widths. Therefore, the entire surface of the oven will look as if the design was made by a professional master.
These nuances will help to simplify the process of erecting a furnace structure, to avoid mistakes that can lead to the need to redo all the work.
Schemes for the construction of brick ovens
Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber
The model, developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin, can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of performing all the functions necessary for a small house, since it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water-heating tank.
Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of \u200b\u200b17 ÷ 20 m², therefore it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. In this case, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the plate towards the kitchen area.
The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows using only the hob in the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. Heat transfer from the furnace with its full firing is 1700 kcal / h.
For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:
| Name of materials and elements | Quantity (pcs.) | Element dimensions (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying) | 281 ÷ 285 | 250 × 120 × 65 |
| Fireclay brick, refractory grade Ш-8 | 82 ÷ 85 | 250 × 120 × 65 |
| Furnace door | 1 | 210 × 250 |
| Doors for cleaning channels | 2 | 140 × 140 |
| Blower door | 1 | 140 × 250 |
| Summer gate valve for chimney | 1 | 130 × 130 |
| Firebox shutter | 1 | 130 × 130 |
| Hob latch | 1 | 130 × 130 |
| Grate | 1 | 200 × 300 |
| Single-burner hob | 1 | 410 × 340 |
| Steel strip | 1 | 40 × 260 × 5 |
| 1 | 40 × 350 × 5 | |
| 1 | 40 × 360 × 5 | |
| Steel corner | 1 | 40 × 40 × 635 |
| 3 | 40 × 40 × 510 | |
| 4 | 40 × 40 × 350 | |
| Roofing iron | 1 | 380 × 310 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 1 | 500 × 700 |
To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5 ÷ 6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.
In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended to carefully study the order before starting it, and during the laying process, keep this scheme always at hand.
In this illustration, this oven is schematically shown in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.
| Illustration (ordering) | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row should be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct masonry. The row consists of 15 bricks. |
 | Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pan (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. The row is laid out with 13 bricks. |
 | In the cast-iron doors, for their fastening in the masonry, special ears are provided into which the prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from the installation site until it is fully fixed, it is temporarily propped up with bricks. |
 | The third row is laid out according to the scheme. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. For laying a row, you will need 13 red bricks. |
 | Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since then they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, in this row, the installed doors are overlapped. You need to prepare 13 red bricks. |
 | The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the furnace is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout should be approximately 10 x 10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are laid over the blowing chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required. |
 | After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grating and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand. |
 | Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to erect. Laying is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks. |
 | Further, on the sixth row, a combustion door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated. |
 | The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the furnace continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is bandaged. |
 | When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges, turned towards the combustion chamber, are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of the hot air, a cut of the protruding corner is made on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber differs in that bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm are used for it. This step is for laying the hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks. |
 | After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is covered with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (provided that the hob is 5 mm thick). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner. |
 | From the twelfth row, only red bricks will be laid. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a lintel. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. For this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sand mortar. The row is laid out with 10 bricks. |
 | 14th - 18th rows - 10 bricks are required for each of them. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber. |
 | On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is overlapped by three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with its back side. Looking at this structure, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid. |
 | 19th row. Laying it out, they block the cooking chamber with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which a valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made at the edges of bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay solution. |
 | The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and the channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is compressed for a smooth overflow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks. |
 | On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the opening for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. Masonry is carried out along the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and a second vertical channel is framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For masonry, you need to prepare 11 bricks. |
 | Further, on the same row, the resulting space is overlapped with steel strips, which will provide a basis for installation metal plate and masonry of the next rows. |
 | The next step, which is performed on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam out of the hob. |
 | On the 22nd row, a metal plate is covered with brickwork. Further laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then, a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front of the bottom of the drying chamber. The row will require 15 bricks. |
 | 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed to the side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. Used 12 bricks. |
 | On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed. |
 | 25th row - work continues according to the scheme, laying is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first one, on the side. |
 | 26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, so the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle to direct the smoke in the desired direction. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required. |
 | On the 27th row, with the help of masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks. |
 | On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then the drying chamber space is covered with three metal corners. |
 | On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the opening above the drying chamber is left open, where a valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making it less thick. A valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks. |
 | The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is half a brick. |
 | The chimney begins to form on the 31 to 32 rows. |
If it is decided to do it yourself, then the work should be done slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering scheme, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.
And at the end of the article - another example of miniature masonry brick oven for a country house.
Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen
The question of how to fold a brick oven for a brick house with your own hands does not cease to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always remained important conditions for a person for a good rest after a busy day. Therefore in recent times more and more city dwellers move from panel high-rise buildings in private houses, where it is possible to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.
Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop all new options that are acceptable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even in the case when all the "blessings of civilization" are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is humid or raining outside, without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent helper in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.
Since there are a large number of different models of heating structures, you should choose a stove with the most accessible, easy-to-read schemes for self-laying, especially if the experience in this craft is small or even completely absent. Naturally, in this case, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the furnace - these are its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and aesthetics is also important. appearance... And in order to choose the right furnace model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on, determining the desired option.
How to choose the best oven option?
Choosing a place to install the oven
In order for the furnace to be fireproof, efficient, and its power used to the maximum extent possible, this structure must be properly installed, taking into account some of the nuances.
- First, it is decided what area can be allocated for the installation of the oven.
- Then, you need to decide on a specific location:
- the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;
- built into walls, between two or three rooms;
- is erected near the wall, with an indent from it 250 ÷ 300 mm, if you need to heat only one room. However, it must be taken into account that this option is the most losing one, since most of the heat generated by the rear walls will not be fully utilized.
- Having chosen an approximate place, it must be immediately marked, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through attic floor between beams and rafters, and at a distance of at least 120 ÷ 150 mm from them.
- Allocating the area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide for more places than its base, by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each of its sides.
- So that there are no problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation site, it is necessary to take into account not only the above recommendations, but also the norms developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.
Calculation of the required power and estimation of firewood consumption
The stove will not be efficient and will not be able to heat the house if its capacity is not sufficient for a specific area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where it is located, the heated building, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of insulation of walls and floors, the height of the ceilings, and many other conditions.
For example, the higher the ceiling, the more air will have to be heated, and the larger the glazing area, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means that you will have to choose a stove with increased power. Usually, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average level, calculations should be made by a specialist individually, relying on specific characteristics houses.
But in general, you can rely on the average values. So, for well-insulated houses with ordinary glazing, with an area of \u200b\u200b50 to 100 m2, with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following standards of thermal power per unit area (Wsp) are permissible:
This value can be more accurately found out at the local construction organization. And for lovers of independent calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.
How to accurately calculate the required heat output?
Each room is unique in its own way, and different amounts of thermal energy may be required to heat two seemingly equal rooms. Power calculation method heating equipment set out in a special publication of our portal dedicated to.
Having data for a specific region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated by the formula:
Wtot \u003d S (m²) × Wsp (kW / m²)
For example, consider the capacity of a furnace for a brick house located in the central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².
Wtot \u003d 75 × 0.14 \u003d 10.5 kW
Typically, furnace designers immediately indicate the heat output of their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It's not scary - they can be easily converted into watts and kilowatts:
In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:
10500 × 0.86 \u003d 9030 kcal / hour
Now you can calculate the efficiency of the future stove, which largely depends, among other things, on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood-burning stoves do not have high efficiency. Usually it is estimated at about 70%. If there is data for a specific furnace model, then a specific value is substituted.
Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value - the amount of thermal energy that is released when 1 kilogram is burned. It is clear that in kilograms and tons, only bulk fuels are usually estimated - coal or, and firewood, as a rule, is measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator, therefore, depends on the specific density of a particular type of wood. Indicators of energy potential (from mass and from storage volume) of the main types of solid fuels are shown in the table.
| Wood species | Average calorific value of dry wood by mass, Qm (kW / kg) | Average calorific value of dry wood by storage volume, Qv (kW / m³) (for coal and briquettes - kW / t) | The same - for wet wood (not passed at least one year drying cycle) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Firewood: | |||
| Beech | 4.2 | 2200 | 1930 |
| Oak | 4.2 | 2100 | 1850 |
| Ash | 4.2 | 2100 | 1850 |
| Rowan | 4.2 | 2100 | 1850 |
| Birch | 4.3 | 1900 | 1670 |
| Elm | 4.1 | 1900 | 1670 |
| Maple | 4.1 | 1900 | 1670 |
| Aspen | 4.1 | 1750 | 1400 |
| Alder | 4.1 | 1500 | 1300 |
| Willow (willow) | 4.1 | 1400 | 1230 |
| Poplar | 4.1 | 1400 | 1230 |
| Pine | 4.4 | 1700 | 1500 |
| Larch | 4.4 | 1700 | 1500 |
| Fir | 4.4 | 1600 | 1400 |
| Spruce | 4.3 | 1400 | 1200 |
| Coal and briquettes: | |||
| Anthracite | 8.1 | 8100 | - |
| Charcoal | 8.6 | 8600 | - |
| Coal | 6.2 | 6200 | - |
| Brown coal | 4.2 | 4200 | - |
| Fuel briquettes | 5.6 | 5600 | - |
| Peat briquettes | 3.4 | 3400 | - |
The calorific value of raw firewood is shown for contrast - how much the generated power is lost. Naturally, you should still count on firewood that has gone through the necessary drying cycle.
Preparing firewood is a serious matter!
In order for the stove to justify its purpose and serve as long as possible, it must be "fed" with the correct fuel. About, about their main characteristics, the rules of preparation, drying and storage - in a special publication of our portal.
Average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the required heat transfer is determined by the formula:
V (kg) \u003d (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours
To calculate the volume - everything is the same, but instead of the calorific value by mass Qm the value is substituted Qv.
Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly and even for the entire expected heating period - in order to have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe forthcoming costs of purchasing or harvesting the required amount of firewood.
To facilitate self-calculation, there is a convenient calculator below, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.
As a rule, small brick ovens are installed. You can easily make such stoves yourself, having previously studied the technology of laying stoves.
Choosing a brick oven for your home
First you need to decide on the specific type of oven. And for this, study in detail the existing types of furnaces and choose the most suitable option for yourself:
- Dutch channel type furnaces have small dimensions and are quite simple to build. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These furnaces operate in slow burning mode.
- Swedish brick oven chamber-channel type has a higher efficiency than Dutch ones. The overall dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complicated. In addition, all building materials for this oven must be selected more carefully.
- Russian stove has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a furnace is very difficult, and you can hardly do without the help of professionals.
- Brick heating and cooking stove - a more common and simpler heating option. This oven requires a small amount of building materials, and simple design you can do it yourself.
If this is your first time building a stove, then for independent construction, choose a Dutch stove or a melting brick stove, because the construction of Swedish stoves is more complicated and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not undertake its construction yourself. 
The next step is to determine what size your stove will be and how many rooms it will heat. IN small house the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.
The basic condition for the placement and construction of the stove is very simple: direct heating from the walls of the stove must cover a large number of rooms.
If this is not possible, it is better to use stoves with built-in hot water coils. With this version of the stove, the remaining rooms will be heated by special ones.
Kiln brick
For extended service life and correct work ovens, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties, which provide heat in your home, depend on the choice.
For a Swedish stove, it is very important to select high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove, the quality requirements are not so high.
Heating brick stoves used to be made of red brick, but today it can be distinguished 2 main types: 
- ceramic brick, red grade 150;
- fireclay refractory brick.
- The bricks must be the same size;
- The use of hollow bricks or silicate bricks is strictly prohibited. Solid ceramic brick is required;
- For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
- Choose refractory fireclay bricks for the combustion chamber.
Instruction and drawing of ordering brick ovens
Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides masonry bricks have their own name, they determine the type of masonry. The most common masonry of brick ovens is bonder and spoon. Those. from the front brick wall we can only see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because it is not used for brickwork of stoves. When laying, the vertical joints between the bricks must not line up.
The brickwork of the stoves begins from the first row, constantly checking according to the scheme where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad helper, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, referring to the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire installation is correct, apply the mortar to the bricks and lay them completely.
The thickness of the joint should be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, so it is better to remove excess clay immediately. In some cases, the seam thickness is exactly 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately on right place, its further movement and tapping is unacceptable.
The excess clay mixture removed from the bricks cannot be reused.
Below is the instruction for masonry:
To lay a brick oven for a house with your own hands, it will take a lot of free time. Each brick has its own importance. If you approach the issue efficiently and responsibly, the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.
Even a novice bricklayer is quite capable of building a brick oven for a brick house with your own hands. Due to the abundance and availability of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with order and detailed description all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's consider in detail how to build a brick oven with your own hands.
The oven starts from the foundation
Even a small brick oven with your own hands, laid out in the country or in a bathhouse, weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to put it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.
The top cut of the foundation matches the level of the subfloor. It is necessary to pay special attention to the fact that the upper plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid skewing the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove-maker.
Two layers of roofing material, glassine or strong construction film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. A steel sheet and a layer of heat insulator are laid on top of the waterproofing (so that the heat does not go into the foundation). On this whole "pie" for the future brick oven, bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid with their own hands.
Preparation of mortar for oven masonry
Unlike a conventional wall, a brick stove with your own hands is not built on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of solutions for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.
The mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. The minerals are characterized by high refractoriness and withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mortar for the preparation of refractory masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.
The mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared on the basis of ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many building supermarkets.
100 pcs. brick will need about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batching. This is done as follows:
- The clay is soaked for a day in cold water.
- The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each, respectively.
- All the resulting samples are mixed again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.
We test samples:
- roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
- In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is not suitable.
- With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
- If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, such a solution is quite suitable for making a furnace with your own hands.
Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good kiln clay, the essence of the tests boils down to determining the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.
DIY brick oven for home video
Bricklaying technology
The furnace diagram shown below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high success rate. A DIY brick stove is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allotted for the oven is only 0.4 sq. m. A very small amount of brick is used for the construction, therefore it has a very low weight.
The laying of the stove starts from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, a thin layer of washed river or rock sand can be poured under the brick. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will act as an additional heat insulator.
The basics of choosing a building material
The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the most even bricks with the same dimensions - since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!
On the second row, install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. The door is fastened with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut in the brick with a grinder.
The third row is laid out already from fireclay bricks. The grates are placed on it after the clay has set.
The laying of the stoves of the fourth row is laid on the edge. If the grates do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, ensuring gaps of 3 mm on all sides.
When laying a brick oven, it is important to know!
The rear "knockout" brick is placed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.
On the fifth row, similar to the blower one, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.
The seventh - ninth rows are laid out again flat. A cast iron hob is laid on top of the ninth row. An asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.
Using a cord to seal masonry
Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room and the clay solution will quickly crumble away from the thermal expansion of the cast iron plate.
The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.
After complete drying of the masonry, the "knockout" brick is pulled out and construction waste is removed from the channel. So that the sand from under the stove does not spill out, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.
Brick stoves for giving video
Choosing pipes for the chimney
Any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters will serve as a chimney for this stove. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for round section... The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the grate of the combustion chamber is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the chimney can be extended by 25-50 cm.
Brick oven decoration
The finished oven masonry is whitewashed outside with a simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. You can add fat milk to the water as a binder. And to prevent the appearance of yellowness, ordinary blueing will help.
If you are deciding how to fold the oven more high level - choose one of the available options for its refinement:
- covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
- outer metal screen;
- decorative jointing or painting of joints with heat-resistant paint.
Brick and tile laying should be foreseen in advance, since during the construction process, external elements are tied with masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and it is better to entrust it to professional stove-makers. It is better to install the metal screen not close, but at some distance from the furnace body. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the heating rate of the room.
Outcome
Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating to any small room... The experience gained during the first construction will form the basis for further improvement of this demanded skill.
Brick ovens equipped with hob, are universal - they allow you to heat the house, as well as heat water and cook food. , from the simplest and most compact, which you can fold with your own hands, to complex multifunctional, the laying of which is better to be entrusted to an experienced stove-maker.
It would seem that there is nothing easier than replacing a suitable surface of a brick oven with a metal insert with your own hands, having received a stove for cooking. In fact, everything is much more complicated. The stove is a complex device, and the thermophysical processes taking place in it depend on correct location its elements.
This type of oven has special requirements. On the one hand, it must effectively accumulate heat in the thickness of the brickwork, on the other, take a significant part of the heat to heat the hob. IN summer timewhen heating the house is not required, the hob should warm up quickly with economical fuel consumption.
Requirements
In theory, the hob can be made of any material that can heat up to high temperatures when firing the oven. In practice, however, they are used with openings covered with a removable cover.
This design makes it possible to obtain zones with different temperatures on the slab. The thermal conductivity of cast iron, in contrast to steel, is not very high, therefore, on the plane of the stove, you can heat food, as well as boil or simmer "over low heat". And by opening the lid, you can directly heat the dishes with an open flame, which allows you to quickly boil water or fry food in a pan.
The most practical burnersshown in the photo, consisting of concentric rings of different diameters - they can be matched to the size of the pan base. In addition, the gaps between the rings compensate for the thermal expansion of the cast iron that occurs during overheating, and the plate can withstand repeated heating and cooling cycles without damage. Solid cast iron stoves are less reliable and require more accurate heating.
Materials
Which brick is preferable for laying a stove equipped with a hob?
In most cases, on the diagrams-orders of stoves for a house, a summer residence or a bath, you can see two types of bricks: ordinary ceramic solid and refractory fireclay - it is most often denoted yellow... From fireclay bricks with their own hands they lay out those parts that experience the greatest during heating thermal loads : firebox and furnace roof, part of the smoke channel immediately after the combustion chamber.
The main difference between fireclay bricks is its increased heat capacity.... It is able to accumulate and release the received heat for a long time more efficiently than ceramic. For masonry heating furnace, and especially this is an indisputable plus.
But if the stove is used mainly as a cooking stove, then the increased heat capacity of chamotte is rather a disadvantage: it will absorb a significant part of the heat, and it will take more time to cook food. In the summer, it will be impossible to cook on such a stove - the room will become hot and stuffy.
If the oven is mainly used for cooking, it is recommended to use a minimum amount of fireclay bricks!Kinds
There are many types of heating and cooking stoves, every stove-maker probably has in stock several proven drawings and diagrams, according to which he does the laying with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all put together on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.
Swedish oven
"Swede" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, cooking a variety of food, and drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out for the little things, the oven is equipped with hob, and an oven, and perfectly heated niches-stoves. Moreover, its smoke channels are made in such a way that the furnace body heats up evenly from bottom to top, thanks to which a stable temperature is kept in the room.
A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and is separated from it by a thin layer of masonry. The arch of the firebox is formed by a slab located in a niche. Immediately after the start of the firebox, the hob and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.
IN winter time when the furnace is fully loaded, the initial the room is heated by convection flows from the stove and oven, after the end of the firebox - due to the heated walls of the oven. The hob does not overheat at the same time, since air is constantly circulating over it.
In summer, the oven is mainly used for cooking.... In this case, intense convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and for a good heating of the plate, a small amount of fuel is sufficient. The oven also warms up, creating a high temperature zone at the exit from the firebox, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. At the same time, the furnace body heats up slightly.
Diagram and drawings of the masonry of a Swedish-type stove with their own hands are shown in the figure.
For laying a classic "Swedish" with your own hands you need:
- corpulent red brick, grade M 150 - 580 pieces;
- clay-based dry masonry mixture - 200 kg;
- cast iron grate;
- firebox door;
- blower door;
- cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
- welded sheet metal oven;
- chimney valve - 2 pcs;
- cleaning - 3 pieces;
- equal-flange steel corner 40 mm - 170 cm;
- steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
- flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
- roofing iron.
The foundation for the Swede is made solid, of concrete... Under the foundation, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel pillow 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with a two-layer reinforcement from a bar. The foundation is kept for at least 20 days before the start of laying to gain strength.
Level the foundation with a screed to the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to insulate the furnace from concrete, otherwise it will take up a significant part of the heat.
Perform it like this:
- a sheet of asbestos 3-4 mm thick is placed on the foundation with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace from the sides and back and 60 cm from the side of the furnace;
- a heat reflector is laid on asbestos - foil or thin galvanized;
- followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
- a sheet of roofing iron with the same indents as asbestos;
- on top of the iron - technical felt impregnated with clay milk to the size of the oven.
On top of the felt, after it dries, they begin laying the furnace according to the scheme-order:
First two rows - solid. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth - install the blower door, cleaning and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke channels, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. 7 row put the firebox door, fix it in 8 and 9 rows, continue to lay out the channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To install it correctly, you must first fold the brick on dry, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.
For the convenience of masonry, bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and recesses are selected with the help of a grinder for laying the slab so that a gap of 5 mm remains on all sides. After that, the row is collected on a masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on an clay-asbestos slurry. For its preparation, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check its level. If the cooking zones have different size, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one above the oven.
Hob laying rules: video
12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and smoke channels. Over 16 rows lay a sheet of flat slate to fit the niche, and in 17 and 18 rows lay it with a brick, forming the ceiling of the furnace. Further laying lead according to the scheme up to 30 rows, in which a valve is placed, after which they proceed to laying the required height.
Small cooking stove
At the cottage or at summer kitchen the oven can only be installed for one purpose - cooking... In this case, there is no need to waste material on the smoke circulation. An excellent model of the cooking oven is presented in order. 
This multifunctional wood-burning stove has several functions: you can cook and roast on the hob, bake in the oven, and it also has a built-in water tank.
The sketch of the facade shows its elements:
- 1 - firebox;
- 2 - ash pan and blower;
- 3 - oven;
- 4 - water tank;
- 5 - cleaning door.
The design and type of heating the furnace resembles a "Swedish", but without smoke channels... The heated smoke goes directly into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located at the back, which allows you to bring the pipe through the wall with your own hands, observing fire safety standards.
On such a stove no more than 250 bricks required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without building a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: a felt impregnated with a liquid clay solution is laid on the floor, and a sheet of roofing iron is laid on it. Laying begins on top of the sheet.
First two rows, like the Swede, solid. 3rd row install cleaning, at 4 and 5 - ash pan door, form the smoke circulation and exit to the chimney. In the 6th row they overlap the ash pan door, install an oven and a water tank. 7 row a grate is placed on the bottom of the furnace, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, put the firebox door. 11 row - overlap over the firebox door, oven and tank. Also in the 11th row, a recess is made for laying the slab.
The top of the stove is covered with a cast iron hob with two burners. They are selected so that the maximum heated one is located above the firebox. Place the slab with a 5 mm gap on a clay mortar with the addition of asbestos.
Kuznetsov ovens
Fundamentally new design furnaces implemented in Unlike duct, they are devoid of complex system internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - caps. For this feature, Kuznetsov's stoves are called bell stoves. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and summer cottages.
In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually giving off heat. This causes uneven heating, and sometimes destruction of furnace elements. If the length of the channels is insufficient, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool down, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.
In bell-type structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded from above by an overlap, and from below it has an exit. The hot gas at the top of the bell gradually cools down, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually goes down. The circulation of gases in Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces is shown in the figure.
For full-fledged heat transfer in Kuznetsov's stoves, not one, but two or three bells are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna stoves, and horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating- cooking ovens, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of the hoods.
The hob is located either above the firebox or forms the arch of the lower bell. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Do-it-yourself masonry orders, as well as photos of the most popular designs of Kuznetsov furnaces, are presented below.
Heating and cooking stove
Kuznetsov's stove for a bath
Video: the laying of the Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove
Video: Kuznetsov's stove for a bath
A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a village house, as well as recreation areas in a bathhouse or in the country. In the presence of a diagram, drawings, ordering and detailed instructions it can be folded with your own hands, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.
