home Railing

Check the appearance of the shield before purchasing. External inspection of the shield

for example, abb busch jaeger, which is best understood by professionals in their field. But there are situations when you need to look at the condition of the electrical panel. For example, when you buy an apartment. So, how is an electrical panel inspection done?

Your task is to check the electrical panel and correct all the defects. For example, you bought a house, but not everything is in order with the electrical system:

the light works with blinking;
There are problems with sockets.

The electrical panel needs to be inspected. We can talk about a switchboard in an apartment or one located in a country house. There is also an option with its own section in a panel on the floor of an apartment building.

Before checking the shield, you need to provide lighting. It is necessary to turn off all machines, including the introductory one. During work, you must follow all safety regulations.

Inspecting the outer part of the shield

Checking the inside

If you open the lid, you will see dust. It is necessary to remove the casing that protects the elements and wipe it carefully. Using dry brushes or brushes, you need to remove dust from switching devices and all wiring. All cables must be marked. In this case, the machines must be signed. The route of the wires must be clear to anyone opening the device.

Checking contacts

In an electrical panel, wire connections are divided into three types. These are connections in which the wires are connected to the housing by protective terminals, as well as by terminal block contacts. When checking connections, you need to pay attention to the fact that there is no oxidation or traces of rust on the wires at the contact point. If necessary, you need to disassemble the connection and strip the wire. A ring is made from the end of the wire, slightly larger in size than the bolt. There must be a washer on bolted connections. In this case, the bolt connection is strengthened using a Grover washer. To strengthen the nut connection, a lock nut is used.

In addition, you need to check the grounding contact of the shield. To do this, the grounding wire is removed, it is stripped, and the bolt is checked. If necessary, the connection can be strengthened with a second nut. Of course, any high-quality equipment, for example, busch jaeger, must be checked by specialists. In this case, it will work for a long time.

In apartments, shields are used to install modular protective devices and meters. Therefore, many people are faced with their purchase. In appearance these are ordinary plastic boxes. They are available for outdoor and built-in installation. But here we will not talk about the types of shields, but about checking them before purchasing.

We recently bought two ABB panels of the Mistral 41 series for 24 modules. These are ordinary housings for built-in installation in a prepared niche. When unpacking, one corner was broken off. In principle, the damage was minor, but still it was not very pleasant to see it, especially when you pay more than five thousand rubles for them. At least it’s not your own money, but the client’s, but it’s still not pleasant)))

Before they fall into your hands, all the shields have time to lie around in more than one warehouse. But we know our loaders and storekeepers! Many of them like to throw the box further and higher))) Therefore, your shield has been loaded, transported, shaken, shifted, dropped, etc. more than once.

Typically, the material of the shields is heat-resistant plastic, which does not really like various impacts and from which it cracks easily. That’s why I strongly recommend that you carefully examine the shield before purchasing it. appearance packaging. And if there are any suspicions about possible impacts on it, then remove the shield itself from the box and inspect it carefully for cracks and chips. It’s better to immediately replace it in the store than to try to prove something and return it a few days later.

So, we bought two of these shields...

The appearance of the packaging was within normal limits. It's true that the corners were a little crumpled, but I didn't notice it. special significance in the shop.

As a result, when I took them out of the package, I found a broken piece of plastic...

I quickly found the place where it broke off. It turned out that when struck by the corner of the body, a small piece of it broke off. The impact came through the packaging and was enough to crack the shield. So it was a good shot. Most likely it was just dropped.

In principle, this breakdown was small and did not affect anything. In a word, I was lucky. But it could have been on a larger scale and then there would have been no luck. So watch what you buy and don’t end up like me.

I simply glued the chipped corner back in place to keep everything in place.

This shield has been standing in its niche for a long time and machine guns and RCDs work in it)))

Have you come across new cracked shield housings?

The fact that home electrical wiring should be given close attention is evidenced by the sad statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations: very often the cause of fires in apartments and houses is faulty wiring. electrical wiring. After all, if a short circuit occurs in it, then the temperature of the spark is so high that everything nearby can ignite.

What should you know to keep the electrical wiring situation under control?

In principle, proper electrical wiring should not be a headache for a homeowner. This is the concern of the specialists of the company with which the contract for the supply of electricity is concluded. But you understand - in our country... Moreover, the competence of electricians is now in question. And therefore, if you are not indifferent to your own house or apartment, you will have to spend time and inspect all the ingenious “nooks and crannies” through which electric current runs through the spaces of the house.

Naturally, you should start from the place where the current actually enters your house. Traditionally, the entrance to the house is considered to be the place where the electricity meter is installed. Although electricians prohibit apartment owners from poking their noses there, you can carefully look into it.

Owner of a private house

You should start checking with the overhead line that approaches your home. Inspect the pillars: there should be no lopsided or wooden poles. If the highway is made from old aluminum wires, on which insulation is missing in places, then such a wire should be replaced immediately! Naturally, not on your own. You must request its replacement. Ideally, on a SIP wire, which is self-supporting. The input circuit breaker must have characteristics B, and the rated current must be 25 A. Not more.

Owner of an apartment in an apartment building

Electricity is supplied to the apartment from a panel installed on the staircase. Meters are installed in such a panel depending on the number of apartments on the site. Circuit breakers, installation conductors, and clamps – “nuts” – are also installed here. Since you have electricity in your apartment, it means everything is connected correctly. And you should pay attention to some flaws, which, unfortunately, are very common:

The shield door does not close. This must definitely be eliminated. After all, if the door is open, hooligans can easily get in. Or children will climb in unknowingly;
the inside of the shield is covered with a thick layer of dust. If there is high humidity, dust conducts electricity, and a short circuit and fire may occur in the panel;
the wires from which the risers are made are aluminum. If this is the case, then remember that you will not be able to ground it.

After you have finished entering, go inside the living quarters. The main thing here is the reliability of the wiring. If you notice that the wiring in your home is made of aluminum, then replacing the wiring should be a top priority when planning your renovation. Aluminum is a very capricious material. And most modern switches, lamps, and sockets are not designed for aluminum wire. And their contacts get very hot if aluminum wires are connected to them.

If the wires are copper, then they should be rigid, not stranded. If a soft conductor is twisted with a hard conductor, then this connection will become very hot. There is a very high risk of fire.

All switches, sockets, lamps must have a complete body and cover. All tightening screws must be in place. If there are cracks, immediate replacement is required. A cord with damaged insulation is replaced. Nothing should get hot, hum or smell like burning.

Where water is often spilled, there should be no switches or sockets.. If you are forced to constantly use extension cords, then this means that you simply do not have enough sockets. Additional sockets should be installed. Both the tee and the extension are temporary solutions. They cannot be used on an ongoing basis.

If you are using electric heaters, then they should not be handicraft - only factory-made! They should be located no closer than 1 meter from materials or flammable objects. They must stand firmly so that they cannot be knocked over by an accidental push.

All electrical devices devices with a metal body (washing machine, refrigerator, etc.) must be grounded. If this is not possible, then they should be protected using an RCD, which is installed either in the distribution panel or as a socket adapter.

Electricity in the kitchen

If your stove has different electrical equipment(electric spit, electric ignition), then the gas supply must be carried out using an insulating insert. If a leak occurs electric current, then the liner, which is not insulated from the stove, can quickly become hot, and then the gas will ignite.

All electrical appliances must be located at a sufficient distance from water sources so that drops do not fall on them. After all, electricity and water are bad neighbors.

So, you have decided to put the electrical panel of your apartment or house in order. For example, you bought an apartment or strange things happen to the electrics in the apartment: the lights are flickering, the sockets either work or don’t work. Need a revision.

By electrical panel we mean either an apartment panel, or a panel in a private house, or its own section in a floor electrical panel.

When using electric motors, the transmission of torque from the motor shaft to the device shaft is of great importance. Torque is transmitted and varied using worm gearboxes. This part is quite in demand, and you can buy a worm gearbox in Yekaterinburg.

Inspection of the electrical panel - stages of work

Let's divide the electrical panel inspection work into several stages:

Visual inspection shield;
Inspection of the inside of the shield and its contents;
Checking contact connections;
Checking switching devices (, RCDs, etc.), including calculation of the electrical network.

Before inspecting the electrical panel, provide backup lighting in advance. Turn off all machines, including the input machine. When working, follow the instructions.

External inspection of the shield

Make an external inspection of the shield. This is a formality, but cracks and chips on the plastic apartment panel should be repaired. The shield cover must be closed and locked in the closed position.

Inspection of the inside of the shield and its contents

When you open the shield cover, you will probably see a layer of dust. Remove the casing protecting the machines. Wipe it from dust and dirt. Use a dry brush or brush to remove dust from switching devices and wires.

According to the rules, all cables must be labeled. must be signed. The marking of cables and circuit breakers must be such that anyone who opens the panel understands where the wires go and what the circuit breakers and protective devices protect.

Checking contact connections

There are three types of contact wire connections in the electrical panel:

Connection of wires and metal panel body;
Connection of wires and terminals of circuit breakers;
Wire contact on terminal block contacts.

Connection of wires and metal panel housing

Connections between wires and metal shield can be bolted or with a nut.

The general algorithm for checking connections is as follows.

Any contact of wires with the body should be free of oxidation and especially rust.
If you need to disassemble the connection, strip the ends of the wire.
At the end of the wire you need to make a ring to match the size of the bolt.
Bolted connections must have a washer. Reinforce the bolt connection with a washer. The nut connection is reinforced with a lock nut.

For example, consider the ground contact of a metal electrical panel:

Disconnect the ground wire;
Strip the ground wire and ground bolt on the chassis;
As a rule, the grounding wire of the electrical panel is attached under a bolt. At the end of the wire there should be a ring for the connection bolt;
Restore the connection of the grounding wire to the panel body;
The connection nut must be tightly tightened, ensuring reliable connection. There should be a flat washer under the nut;
To strengthen the connection, screw on the second nut (lock nut);
The grounding location must be marked with a grounding sign;
Perform a similar operation with all wire connections to the metal parts of the panel.

Contacts in automatic machines and protective devices

Check the connections of wires and terminals. To do this, use a screwdriver to tighten the connection terminal bolts. Tighten firmly, but without fanaticism.

Wire contact on terminal block contacts

Similarly, tighten all the bolts on the terminal blocks installed in the panel.

Checking switching devices installed in the switchboard

After “pulling” all the contact connections, all that remains is to check the functionality of the switching devices installed in the switchboard. This mainly applies to and.

To do this, you need to apply voltage to the shield. Turn on all automatic devices.

Using the “Test” button on , check the functionality of the devices. Faulty devices, that is, those devices that do not turn off when you press the “Test” button, need to be replaced.

Testing of protection devices is done after pulling the contacts because a weak contact may indicate a false fault during testing.

This completes the inspection of the electrical panel.

An apartment or house switchboard, for a person far from electricians, is a box with some things, an electric meter and a bunch of wires inside. It’s unclear why everything is there and what good it does. And it is completely unclear by what logic it was collected. And most importantly, it’s just scary to climb there.

If you have such thoughts and reactions to installing an electrical panel in a private house or apartment, congratulations! You are a reasonable person. Because an electrical panel is a really complex and unsafe thing. To competently design and assemble a distribution and metering panel, you need to know a lot of things.

In short, assembling an electrical panel in an apartment is impossible without:

electrical wiring project;
choice the right place for installation;
shield assembly diagrams;
choosing the right housing (metal or plastic, built-in or wall-mounted);
competent selection of components;
correct installation of equipment;
proper connection of the switchboard to the power cable.

Attention! Any mistake will make the operation of the equipment unsafe, and this will affect all the electrical systems in the house and your household appliances. Therefore, installation of the switchboard should only be carried out by an experienced electrician!

And we will tell you about how the shield is designed, what types of circuits there are, what is inside the case and other subtleties. So that you can check the work of the master and understand why this or that part was chosen.

Buy a ready-made electrical panel for installation in an apartment or assemble it yourself

1. Selecting an installation location

Let's start with the simplest part - where to place the switchboard in the apartment? It is most convenient to place it near front door in the hall. In this case, you will not have to pull the power cable far from the site. Most best option in height - at eye level of an adult. And it’s convenient to take meter readings and turn off the machines if necessary.

For those who support pushing everything under the ceiling, “for greater security, like they used to hang meters,” let’s say the following. Old electric meters with fuse plugs were simply mounted on the wall without boxes, and therefore were hung from the ceiling. A modern electrical panel has a durable casing and is locked, so children will not get in unless you leave the key in a visible place.

When choosing a location for installing a panel in a private house or cottage, you need to consider where and how the cable from the overhead line or underground supply line is or will be installed. Data on external networks can be obtained from local energy sales.

2. Buy a ready-made electrical panel for installation in an apartment or assemble it yourself

As the old song says, “how far progress has come,” you can buy a ready-made shield with a full filling. If your electrician suggests such a “proprietary” assembly design, then do not be alarmed. Panels are assembled by enterprises and electrical installation companies, including on order or for standard projects apartment wiring.

The main point that needs to be clarified is whether your master has worked with ready-made shields before or this is his first experience. If he has installed a dozen or two such assemblies and knows their features, then feel free to agree. But if you are a “guinea pig” for the first experiment, refuse. It’s better to let him assemble it himself, with his own hands, the old fashioned way.

3. Switchboard elements

The layout of the panel in the apartment is one of the main points, but before we deal with it, let's see what elements are included in the design. So that you can understand the symbols and composition of the wiring diagram.

Typically, when installing a shield, use:

Introductory machine. It is placed to protect the entire wiring circuit. The cores of the main incoming cable are connected to the terminals of the input circuit breaker. For convenient work with an electrical panel, a switch is often installed in front of the introductory circuit breaker. It allows you to de-energize the entire assembly to replace elements, safe preventative maintenance, and completely shuts off the power supply to your apartment or house. In this case, the power cable is connected to the switch.
Electric meter. It is installed after the introductory machine and calculates the energy consumption in a house or apartment. Sometimes the meter stands separately, up to the panel, along with a circuit breaker. For example, on the site of an apartment building.
Residual current device— designed to protect against electric shock and prevent fires. The RCD in the circuit can be one, installed after the meter, for example, in a one-room apartment with a small load. Or they install several RCDs on separate lines with high consumption (for an electric stove, washing machine, air conditioner).
Linear automata. Needed for individual lines on different rooms, household appliances and lighting. They break the circuit if an overcurrent or short circuit is detected, protecting the wiring and connected equipment from damage. Triggering the machine can prevent a fire due to heating and ignition of the wire.
Diffautomatic protection— can be installed instead of a pair of automatic circuit breaker + RCD on separate power lines of electrical appliances.
DIN rail— mounting element for installing equipment. Attached to the rear wall of the electrical panel housing. Depending on the dimensions of the cabinet, the number of DIN rails and the possible number of installed modules may vary. In order not to make a mistake when purchasing a switchboard housing based on the number of modules, you need to draw up a wiring diagram.
Connection bars. Needed for connecting and connecting working zeros and grounding wires. The panel uses both neutral terminal bars and grounding ones.
Distribution buses. Installed for a “bundle” of linear machines, RCDs, and automatic circuit breakers. Comb busbars have reliable insulation and allow you to quickly and safely connect a number of machines through the input terminal block. They can be used both for the current conductor and for the working zero.

4. Diagram of the electrical panel in the apartment

Is the diagram always used when installing a panel? No, not always, but only a master with extensive experience and experience in electrical installation can assemble a distribution board for electrical wiring in an apartment without a diagram. When you make shields constantly and hundreds of them a year, the diagram is imprinted in your head. That is, in fact, it is always there, it’s just not drawn on paper.

Well, if the diagram is printed and you are interested in understanding what kind of rectangles and lines are depicted there, let’s figure it out together.

What types of diagrams are there and what is indicated on them?

The diagram should indicate everything, from the input circuit breaker to the limit switches on the lines. Moreover, not just squares are drawn, but the full designation with the denomination and protection class is written down. This diagram will be useful when replacing modules or adding new ones.

Let's now look at different variants diagrams for assembling a panel in an apartment.

For housing in an old building (wiring without grounding)

In Soviet-built houses and reconstructed old buildings, the wiring is not grounded. Therefore, there is no grounding PE bus in the electrical panel circuit.

For a one-room apartment we use the simplest version of the shield. Its design will include:

housing with din rails;
two-pole input circuit breaker 32 Ampere;
electric meter (the example shows “Mercury 201”);
RCD 2P 40A at 30mA;
3 single-pole 16 A circuit breakers (lighting, sockets, washing machine);
zero PEN bus (for separate connection of zero and protection).

Attention! For safe operation of wiring in such schemes, the neutral working and protective conductors in the cable are separated on a PEN bus, even in the absence of a ground loop.

To protect against voltage surges when “zero burns out” due to dilapidated house wiring, a voltage control relay is added to the switchboard circuit. It is triggered by an insulation breakdown and contact between phase and neutral wire, breaks the circuit and protects household appliances from damage.

For two- to three-room apartments, this scheme expands to required quantity linear machines. And on outlet lines with large household appliances, for example, a washing machine/dishwasher, additional two-pole RCDs with a lower rating (16-25A/10mA) are installed to protect against electric shock. This allows for high safety even without a ground wire.

Electrical panel diagram in an apartment with RCD and grounding

If the house is new or the cable in the entrance was changed and a ground loop was installed, then the layout of the apartment panel will be different. For example, let's also take one-room apartment with an electric stove in the kitchen.

When installing the switchboard you must use:

plastic box with 2 rows of DIN rails;
two-pole input circuit breaker 40 A;
single-phase electric meter;
RCD 2P 50 A at 30 mA;
4 single pole package switches(three for 16 A and one for 25 A - for the stove);
zero bus (working zero N) and ground bus (PE);
comb bus (for connecting machines).

Attention! An electric meter with a nominal value of 40 A with this circuit option is installed on the site or in a separate box paired with a circuit breaker. But it can be added to the plan and placed between the input machine and the RCD.

In an apartment with big amount rooms and cable lines For powerful equipment, it is necessary to install additional 2-pole RCDs with a rating of 16-25A/10 mA. They will react faster to a small leak and protect against electric shock.

For example, washing machines They often “fight with electric shock” due to problems with internal wiring. And if you touch them with wet hands, you can get a noticeable blow. This is extremely dangerous, especially for children or people with weak hearts. The RCD on the connection line of the machine will sense surges and turn off the power at the first contact of the bare wire with the body.

Both circuit options, with and without grounding, are designed for networks with a voltage of 220 Volts, which is used in most residential buildings in the city. But some buildings receive power at 380 volts and the circuits of apartment electrical panels in them are much more complicated.

Switchboard diagram for an apartment with a three-phase power supply network

In new houses, for example, in town houses, a network with a voltage of 380 Volts is installed and the corresponding wiring is made in the housing. The electrical panel diagram for an apartment of this type is more complex and uses three-phase and single-phase devices. An electricity meter is usually installed separately on the site, paired with a three-pole circuit breaker or switch.

In principle, such an assembly can also be used for a private house with three-phase power supply. But with the mandatory installation of a general fire protection RCD. It is not necessary to install it in an apartment if there are separate devices on the lines.

To install the shield you will need:

housing with DIN rails;
three-pole input circuit breaker for 63 Amperes;
three-phase meter;
two-pole RCD 40 A at 30 mA (to protect bathroom lighting lines, washing machine and room sockets);
linear machines for 1 pole (rated 16, 25, 40 A);
additional two-pole breakers for wiring kitchen sockets 16A/30mA and hydromassage bath(25A/30mA), they can be replaced with a pair of RCDs + a circuit breaker with similar characteristics;
zero buses and protective;
comb tires.

The circuit can be supplemented with an additional RCD for the electric stove (2P 25A/30 mA).

Panel in an apartment with a three-phase electric stove

In some houses, a three-phase network cable is supplied to the apartments, but the voltage of 380 Volts is used only to connect the electric stove. All other wiring is done for a single-phase network and the panel turns out to be combined.

At the entrance there is a three-pole 63 A input circuit breaker (after the switch), then a three-phase meter. Further power wire they are allowed on two different branches. In the first, excess phases are removed and a switchboard circuit and electrical wiring with one phase of 220 Volts are installed. The second branch is left unchanged and three phases are connected to the electric stove with a straight wire.

A three-pole circuit breaker with 20A or 32A (depending on the power of the electric stove) and a four-pole RCD with an ampere rating exceeding the machine’s rating by one step must be installed on the line, i.e. For circuit breaker 20A should take a 25A/30mA RCD, for a 32A machine - a 40A/30mA RCD. Or they install a difavtomat with similar characteristics for current (20A or 32A) and leakage (30 mA).

When installing wiring, use a three-phase five-wire power cable with a current load from 20 to 32 Amperes and a special socket and plug for connecting an electric stove.

If instead of a stove there is a separate panel and a separate oven, then you will have to run two connection lines. On the panel - three-phase, on the cabinet, most often single-phase, with the installation of appropriate circuit breakers and RCDs. (About the choice of sockets for the oven and hob you can read it)

Refrigerator for separate machine

Often, in the panel diagrams in the apartment, a separate line is made for the refrigerator in order to turn off everything except it. This allows you not to empty the refrigerator of supplies during a vacation or business trip and at the same time turn off the power to everything else for safety.

5. Switchboard in a private house

Houses are different, just like apartments, and the layouts in them are also different. But they can be divided into 2 groups: for wiring at 220 V and at 380 V.

Distribution board for 220 V electrical wiring in a private house

For small-format suburban housing or country house no complicated assembly required. There is no large load, and therefore the circuit resembles a simple electrical panel for a one-room apartment.

For installation you will need:

box with DIN rail;
input two-pole switch 40 Ampere;
electricity meter (single-phase, corresponding in current rating to the input circuit breaker, single or multi-tariff);
two-pole circuit breaker or RCD 50 A/30 mA;
batch switches/circuit breakers for 1 pole (according to the number of load lines, with a rating of 16 A for lighting and sockets and a rating of 25-40 A for a powerful load, for example, a stove);
zero bus;
safety bus;
insulated connecting comb.

If there are more working lines than in the diagram, for example, there is also a garage and a workshop, then we add circuit breakers for them and install additional RCDs to protect against current leaks due to breakdowns on the housing and damage to the wiring. In a garage or workshop this is necessary because high humidity and lack of heating. It is better to install an extra RCD with a small rating than to “catch” an electric shock in a damp room.

Assembly of a panel for a private house with a three-phase network

If the house is large, like a cottage, then it is most often powered from a three-phase network. There is a lot of wiring both in residential premises and in outbuildings. Therefore, the project turns out to be serious and many elements are needed for assembly.

The electrical panel diagram for a home includes:

housing with 2-3 rows of DIN rails;
3-pole input circuit breaker 63A;
three-phase electric meter (rated current 63 A);
four-pole RCD 80 A at 300 mA (for general fire protection wiring circuit);
distribution buses;
1P automatic switches for individual load groups (lights - 16A, sockets - 25A, powerful household appliances and outbuildings - 40A);
additional two-pole RCDs with a rating of 10/16/30 mA to protect certain groups: sockets, garage (the current value is an order of magnitude higher than in machines from 25 to 50 Amperes);
a three-pole circuit breaker for 20 A and a 4P RCD for 25 A with a leakage current of up to 30 mA for connecting an electric stove or a difautomatic circuit breaker for 20 A/30 mA;
zero buses and protective PE bus;
comb tires.

The power of the fire-fighting RCD of 300 milliamps was selected for the total load and significant background leaks. It is designed to protect wiring from fire due to short circuits or damaged insulation. To protect individual circuits from electric shocks, devices with a lower rating are installed to respond to a leak in the protected line.

The house uses a voltage of 220 V for lighting and sockets for household appliances, as well as a 380 V line for powering the electric stove. A single-phase network branch goes to outbuildings.

If you need to power a three-phase load, you can add another power circuit with output outside the house. Or install a machine, an RCD and a 380 V socket inside the house to connect the load through an extension cord. This option is suitable if the equipment will be turned on very rarely.

6. How to choose a housing for an electrical panel in an apartment or house

Since all the elements from the diagram are installed inside the panel body, it must be selected after developing the installation plan. So that everything you need will fit and there will be some reserve for adding components. The result is a diagram for 42 modules, which means we take the case for 46, or we take 66 places, and take the cabinet for 72.

The free space will allow you to connect a new line or pair if the need arises. For example, we bought more household appliances, but the cable and sockets in the kitchen/bathroom will not carry the overall load and we need to “throw in” additional ones. Or they changed the stove to a more powerful one and it needs a cable with different characteristics. Therefore, it is better to take a cabinet with a reserve of the number of modules than to later replace it with a new one and reassemble the entire panel.

When choosing a housing, the space available for connecting wires and connecting groups of machines is also taken into account. During installation, it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between elements. You cannot push them and the wires tightly, compacting them like sprat in a jar.

Types of electrical panel housing

All cases or, as they are also called, boxes can be divided according to two main characteristics:

material of manufacture (metal, plastic).
installation method (mounted, built-in).

Metal cabinets Most often they are wall-mounted and mounted on the wall. They are available in both standard versions with a degree of protection IP 31-43, and moisture resistant with IP 44-54. To assemble a shield in a house or apartment, a standard housing is sufficient; it is unlikely to get exposed to rain or be placed next to water supply pipes. Sealed boxes are useful for installation outdoors and are not of interest to us.

There are models of metal cabinets for installation in a niche; if you like metal and want to put the cabinet into the wall, choose this one.

Plastic shields Available for both wall and niche installation. You can choose a plastic cabinet for small assemblies (in apartments/country houses) and for complex multi-component panels (cottage, Vacation home, large apartment). In terms of strength and IP protection, they are not inferior to metal ones.

Advice! When choosing a shield for a niche, make it slightly larger than the body in width and height. It is much easier to fix the installed shield with foam or alabaster in a large opening than to push it end-to-end into a niche.

Number of modules and filling of boxes

Cases are sold with installed DIN rails for a certain number of modules, it is indicated in the product name. Din rails are mounting guides for installed equipment. Automatic machines, RCDs, and meters have special latches that secure them to the rail.

The number of modules is the number of elements the size of one module that can fit on the slats. If an element occupies more than one module in width, then fewer elements will fit into the housing. To determine the required number, you need to add up the dimensions of all the circuit elements in the modules, taking into account the margin for the distance between the parts.

Some models are equipped with DIN rails with end caps that can be removed. This frees up space for additional elements. But it is better to take a cabinet with a reserve number of modules, as we have already said (for example, we counted 66 modules, we bought a box for 72).

To connect working neutral and protective wires, special buses are used. Some cabinet models have them installed, but most often when assembling the panel they need to be purchased separately.

7. Body of the shield for the apartment in the online store website

RCD

The circuit may have one residual current device for the entire wiring, it is also called a general fire protection RCD, and separate ones for lines with a heavy load. The current rating of a general fire protection RCD in amperes is theoretically equal to the rating of the machine, but from practical experience It is better to install a protective device with a higher indicator. This will protect the RCD from damage due to overload. In such cases, the machine does not operate instantly, but after some time there is a danger that the protective device will burn out. But if the rating of the RCD is higher than that of the machine, it will easily tolerate an overload of even 30-40%.

The magnitude of the differential current depends on the total load on the wiring. For simple circuits, a 30 mA RCD is sufficient; for complex and loaded circuits, use 100 mA or even 300 mA. The main task of a fire protection RCD is protection against short circuits and fires.

The following are suitable as general ones:

RCDs on lines usually have a difcurrent value of 10 mA; they must respond quickly to minimal leakage, but according to the recommendations of the PUE, equipment can also be installed at 30 mA. Based on the nominal current rating, it is also better to take a “protection” with a larger value, that is, for a socket line paired with a 25 A circuit breaker, preferably a 40 A RCD.

For lighting, we take a 25-amp RCD to a 16 A switch.