Drive repair. Typical malfunctions. Hardware repair DVD-ROM Repair slotted internal dvd drive

Being complex electronic-optical-mechanical devices, CD/DVD drives are among the most unreliable computer components. The causes of breakdowns can be very diverse. Most often, the laser dies or loses its emission, the chipset crashes even more often, especially if both drive motors and laser focusing coils are mounted on a single microcircuit. I'm not even talking about mechanical breakdowns and contamination of optical surfaces. Is it possible to repair a failed drive at home, or is it easier not to suffer, but to buy a new one?

Introduction

Not every drive failure is fatal. Often, it is possible to repair the drive at home, without having either special equipment or preliminary training that goes beyond the competence of an ordinary craftsman electronics engineer. Don't be afraid to experiment with a broken drive! It will not be worse for him anyway (of course, provided that the drive is not under warranty). You can, of course, take it to a service center, but ... it's long, expensive, and not interesting.

You will need spare parts for repairs. And where to get them? Go to the market, shock your friends - and you will surely find a lot of "scrap metal" that will be given to you for next to nothing. First of all, pay attention to drives built on the same element base as yours (this primarily concerns the laser head and chipset, the marking of which is determined by the inscriptions on their case). Let's say your electronics board flew out, and a friend's gears crumbled. Then the entire non-working board can be replaced entirely, without even understanding what the problem is. All other models are also useful. From there, in particular, you can pull out some specific spare part - for example, a fuse.

Troubleshooting methodology is not provided here, as this is too broad a topic. Our task is much faster - to give the reader a first push, orienting him in which direction to dig, listing the main categories of breakdowns and methods with them, sorted in descending order of their relevance. Well, the rest, as they say, is a matter of technology ...

Picture 1.

Laser

Laser emitters used in reading (and especially writing!) drives are rather short-lived devices that massively fail after several years of operation. Why is this happening? Well, firstly, the natural loss of emitter emission affects, and secondly, the unfavorable mode of operation. Self-respecting manufacturers adjust the parameters of each laser strictly individually, either by setting the required modes with trimmers (in cheap models), or by entering them directly into the firmware itself (in more expensive models). Noname set all parameters to the average level, which is too low for some head instances, and too high for others. By the way, when unlocking DVD drives and replacing the firmware with its "hacked" version, the previous settings are not saved, and if the hacker does not attempt to save them first, the laser will quickly fail or become unstable.

Decreasing the brightness of the laser light increases the number of read/positioning errors (some of the disks are no longer recognized at all), and starting from a certain moment, the drive refuses to recognize the disks at all, often without even trying to spin them up (usually the drive motor spins up only when the sensor detects the reflected signal , and if there is no signal, it is considered that the disk is not inserted and do not spin it).

After carefully disassembling the drive, connect it to the computer and see if the laser flashes when the tray is closed. With normal emission, you will see the beam even in daylight, and a “sunk down” laser is only distinguishable in a darkened room. If there are no traces of the presence of the beam even in complete darkness, look for the cause of the failure in the electronics (just remember that the laser is not visible from any angle). Actually, this is a rather risky operation, because. if the beam hits the eye, you can go blind, but this risk is not so great ...

Services for replacing a laser head on average cost half the cost of a new drive, and given that scientific and technological progress does not stand still and new drives are much better than old ones, there is little point in such repairs. Alternatively, you can try to bring the laser back to life simply by increasing the supply voltage. Follow the conductors connected to the laser emitter - in their path they should rest against a resistor, in parallel to which you have to solder another one, choosing its resistance so that the drive confidently recognizes all the disks. A more honest option - after finding out the brand of the chipset that controls the laser (usually the largest chip), surf the Internet in search of its technical specifications. There, among other useful information, the mechanism for adjusting the power of the laser beam should be described. As a rule, one or more resistors connected to the chipset (not to the laser head!) are responsible for this. Some models allow you to configure the laser via the SCSI/ATAPI interface (via special commands described in the technical documentation for the drive) or via the process connector.

In principle, the laser head can be disassembled by directly replacing the emitting element itself, which can be torn out of another drive, but few managed to assemble the head correctly. Just in case, below are explanatory photographs showing its device, the principle of operation and the disassembly procedure.

Figure 2.

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Chipset

The chipset is the heart of the drive. It not only provides information processing, but also controls the position / rotation motors, laser head and focus coils. Thrifty manufacturers integrate the entire chipset into a single chip, often not caring about its cooling. As a result, the chipset quickly fails, literally burning through, and the drive completely or partially fails to work.

The behavior of a broken chipset can be very diverse - from complete unwillingness to recognize the drive at all to a decrease in reading speed. The minimally operable chipset recognizes the drive and, when power is applied, moves the optical head to the beginning of the disk, after which it starts to bounce the focusing lens. If this does not happen, the chipset is unusable or the electrical components serving it are faulty (but they fail quite rarely).

Replacing a burned-out chipset at home is unrealistic, because. firstly, there is no place to buy it, secondly, its price is comparable to the cost of a drive, and thirdly, without special equipment, this jewelry operation can only be performed by Left-handers and extreme sportsmen.

But it is quite possible to prevent the failure of the chipset. Glue at least a tiny heat sink to the largest drive chip using double-sided tape or special glue. Scotch tape can be bought at the stationery store, and glue - at the radio market (glue is better, and scotch tape is more affordable). Also equip the drive with a fan by attaching it to the back of the case, having previously drilled several holes there. Well, or at least do not place the drive above the hard drive, because. hard drives (especially high-speed ones) get very hot and overheat the drive.

Cache memory is not formally included in the chipset, but it is very closely connected with it. Often she gives oak and fails. If the defect affects one or more cells, then in the vast majority of cases this does not affect the operation of the drive (it has correction codes, after all), but with large damage (and even more so with a complete failure), the drive either stops reading discs altogether, either reads them extremely slowly and with many errors. Since the drives use the same memory as DIMMs, it can be replaced (at least in theory, but in practice it all comes down to the art of high-quality soldering).

Figure 6 The largest chip is the chipset, the smaller chip is the memory.

Figure 7

Mechanical damage

CD/DVD drives are great dust collectors, especially if they have a fan underneath them to keep the hard drives cool. Dust passes through the slots of the housing and settles on the moving mechanical parts, increasing their wear, which smoothly flows into chronic jamming. The drive either refuses to close the tray at all, or immediately spits out the disc after closing, or cannot turn the disc (rotates the disc with a strange sound). The same applies to the positioning mechanism.

Disassemble the drive, remove all dirt, lubricate the rubbing elements (just not so that it drips from the tail and remembering that plastic gears do not require lubrication), if necessary, adjust the backlash so that everything rotates effortlessly, but does not hang out. Make sure that the gears / worms do not have excessive wear, chipped teeth and nothing else gets into them (this primarily applies to fragments of disks torn by the drive, as well as wires that get underfoot).

Figure 8 Assembled drive mechanism. This plastic will not last long and may fail at any time, then the broken parts will either have to be machined on their own or pulled out of other drives.

Figure 9 Dust buildup on moving mechanical parts can cause jamming.

Other electronics failures

First of all, check all mechanical contacts (connectors, trimmers, buttons and switches, tray closing sensors, etc.), as well as the integrity of the supply wires. When the power connector (interface cable) is carelessly pulled out, thin tracks can break, and this break is often not noticeable to either the eye or the ohmmeter, but at high frequencies (normal operating condition of the drive) it makes itself felt.

Carefully inspect all rubbing cables - often they are rubbed to holes, causing either a short circuit to the case or a break in the conductor. Or both at the same time (especially New Vasyuki, ugh New-TEAC "and drives sold under the TEAC trademark, but assembled by third-rate companies - currently TEAC has left the CD drive market, having sold its label noname- manufacturers).

Don't forget the fuses too. If the drive was connected incorrectly or power surges, they could well burn out, saving the drive from inevitable death. A modern fuse is such a small piece of crap, completely unlike the glass tube we are used to with a thin wire inside, and it is not so easy to notice it with a cursory examination of the board. By the way, there are usually many more than one fuse, so check everything you find.

Pay attention to the state of other elements. Swollen varnish, traces of burning, deformation or physical defects (such as chips or breaks) quite eloquently indicate the source of the malfunction. Unfortunately, the vast majority of electronics failures go without visual manifestations.

To check the health of the motors, connect them to a 5 volt source (the black wire is a minus), of course, after disconnecting them from the drive. Since engines tend to be more or less standard, finding a replacement for them will not be difficult. Well, in general, check everything that can be checked: the electrolytes have not dried / broken, the resistors have not broken, the diodes, stabilizers, key transistors are intact and everything, everything, everything ...

Small logic almost never fails, but for power elements this is in the order of things.

Figure 10.

Optics

If you do not abuse smoking and do not exhale a jet of smoke aimed at the drive, you do not need to clean the optics. One of my drives has already worked for 10 years and has never been cleaned.

Forget about cleaning kits - they can easily damage an optical lens (by the way, usually made of organic glass) without the slightest hope of restoring it. It is strongly not recommended to wipe optical surfaces. Try to blow off dust particles with a rubber enema (lieutenants, not a word about perversions!), After making sure that there is no talc inside it, and in no case do it with your mouth (droplets of saliva are deadly for optics). If the resinous substances of tobacco smoke have formed a characteristic oily film, do not try to scrub it off. It is better to apply a drop of a thick solution of laundry soap to the lens and, after letting the chemistry work for fifteen to twenty minutes, remove it with a napkin, gently bringing it to the drop, but without touching the surface of the lens. Then, with a few drops of distilled water, rinse the lens of soap.

Figure 11.

Summary table of the main symptoms

Symptom		Diagnosis
The drive is not recognized by the computer	When turned on, it does not make any sounds, does not blink anything	Electronics failure, possibly broken track or blown fuse
	Flashing or constantly on indicator	Failure of the electronics, possibly the interface unit or chipset, also check the contact of the interface connector, the integrity of the conductors and the magnitude of the supply voltage
Recognized by computer	Tray does not eject	Failure of the mechanical part, breakage in the ejection button, failure of the engine or elements serving it (for example, the chipset)
	Does not retract the tray, or retracts, but immediately throws out	Mechanical failure
Can't see disk	Disc does not spin, lens and carriage do not move	Mechanical failure, engine failure, chipset failure
	The disk does not spin, the lens moves	Dead laser
	Disc spins up to normal speed, then stops	The laser died, the setting went wrong, the chipset failed
	Disc spins up to reduced speed	Failure of the mechanics, settings lost
	The disc spins at breakneck speeds.	Chipset failed, settings lost
Sees the disk	Disk is not readable	Electronics failure
	The disc is being read with a lot of errors	Decreased laser emission, dirty optics, wrong settings, electronics failure
	When you press the eject button, the drive spits out a spinning disc	Electronics failure

Conclusion

Every day the drives are getting cheaper and cheaper, making their repairs meaningless. Meanwhile, their quality is steadily declining. The crisis of overproduction forces manufacturers to save on everything they can, and above all on reliability and durability. It often turns out to be much cheaper to occasionally repair good old drives than to join the race for new models. However, everyone is free to choose the upgrade policy on their own ...

After the shelves of electronics stores were flooded with cheap Chinese-made DVD players, these wonderful devices immediately appeared on the repair table.

As practice shows, the malfunctions of DVD players are mostly of the same type.

If the DVD player malfunction type " no disk "(No disc)," error " (Error), random freezes during playback, the disc does not load the first time (only after several attempts), the disc does not spin up, then you need to pay attention to the following details of the player.

Here is a list of interchangeable DVD laser readers:

SF-HD65;

SF-HD62;

SF-HD60;

KHM-310;

KHM-313.

It is worth noting that one of the most common and fairly easily remedied faults is the contamination of the laser reader lens. Sometimes it is enough just to clean the lens and the device starts to work properly. I have already talked about typical malfunctions of laser drives in more detail on the pages of the site.

Spindle motor

If the DVD disc rotation speed is not constant, with frequent jerks and slowdowns, then the problem may be with the motor or driver.

Spindle drive failure is sometimes quite difficult to identify. The fact is that the engine is in good condition, but due to wear and tear, it gives out low speed. In disc players disk rotation speed is linear, it is constantly controlled by the processor, which issues commands to the driver. But the engine is so worn out that no speed control system can cope. Usually, in this case, DVDs do not load the first time, random freezes occur during playback, and the disc does not spin up at all.

With such defects, it is advisable to replace spindle motor. The one that spins the disk.

spindle motor is better replace with table on which the disk is installed. If only the motor is being replaced, then the height of the table installation on the motor shaft should be measured.



This is due to the fact that distance from laser disc to laser reader must be within certain limits. , otherwise the focusing system will not be able to focus the laser beam on the disc surface.

If you install a table on the motor shaft "from the bulldozer", then freezes or even the impossibility of playing are possible. Sometimes, after incorrect installation of the table, the player reads CD / MP3 discs perfectly, but there are difficulties with playing DVD discs. The disk may boot every other time, freeze or not be detected at all.

Therefore, before replacing the motor, we measure the height of the table, and after repair, we check the DVD player for correct reading of discs of various formats (DVD, CD Audio, CD / MP3, DVD-R / RW, etc.) This recommendation also applies to the repair of car CD / MP3 and video players

Very often motors with the following markings are used in DVD players:

MORF300CA287
RF-300F-12350 D/V 5.9 (D/V 5.9 - stands for 5.9 Volt DC motor - infa for the curious)

Driver

A driver is a microcircuit that controls the spindle drive, the positioning motor (the one that rolls the laser head), the focusing coil of the laser lens, the disk loading / unloading engine, in general, all the mechanics. The driver receives commands from the processor.



Usually, if the driver is faulty, then it gets very hot. In this case, malfunctions of mechanical components appear (problems of loading / unloading the disc tray, the disc does not spin up, there is no positioning of the laser reader)

It should be noted that the driver heats up during operation (after all, this is an amplifying element), but if the case temperature is clearly too high (it burns your finger!), then the driver itself is more likely to be faulty. Also, excessive heating may be associated with a malfunction of any engine. If the drive consumes excessive current, then this can lead to a strong heating of the driver chip.

The most common driver chips are:

BA5954FP(may be labeled as AZ5954M, C5954, CD5954- all these are analogues);

AM5888S;

AM5868S;

BA5888FP;

BA5824FP;

BA5814FM;

SA9259(full analogue of the microcircuit - IP4001).

Replacing a defective driver is quite a hassle, since these chips have a planar package, which makes it difficult to dismantle them with ordinary soldering equipment. To dismantle the driver chip, it is best to use a hot air soldering station (hot air gun) and Rose alloy to reduce the melting temperature of the solder.

For mounting a new driver chip on the board, a soldering station with a tip of a suitable profile is quite suitable.

If a DVD player breaks down, you don't have to throw it away or take it to a workshop and pay money for repairs. You can disassemble and even repair the device with your own hands.

The device and principle of operation of the DVD player

The player consists of a case with a disc tray. On the front panel of the case there are: a status display, player control buttons, on some models there may be connectors for connecting a microphone, headphones, a flash drive. Inside the case, everything is much more interesting.

Briefly about the main components of the device.

CPU

This is the main element of the player. It consumes electricity from a switching power supply.

Laser Reading Head

It is used to read information from the media. A wide flexible cable connects the reading head to the main board. All disc media has a mounting track that is required for proper operation. It is located in the center. When a disc is loaded, the laser moves to the center to read that track. If the reading was successful, the presence of the disc is established, and only after that the rotation motor is turned on, and the disc starts playing.

Spindle drive motor

The motor communicates with the processor through a driver. The disk rotation speed depends on the processor signals.

Driver

This is a microcircuit that receives commands from the processor and controls the operation of the spindle drive motor, laser lens focusing coil, laser reader movement motor, tray loading and unloading motor.

Is DIY repair possible?

“So many devices and wires! I'd better take it to the workshop!" - you will say with horror, clutching your head. But! Don't rush to spend money. There are such breakdowns that can be easily identified and repaired with a conventional screwdriver.

If the player does not turn on

There could be many reasons for this. Consider the most elementary and common. Let's remove the cover of the player and diagnose the power cord for internal damage. To check the operation of the multimeter, turn it on to the resistance measurement mode. We connect the probes to each other. If the device is working, zeros will appear on the display. We connect the open probes to the cord. One probe to the cable contact at the junction with the board, the other in turn to one of the plug contacts. If the ohmmeter outputs up to 3 ohms, the wire is undamaged. If more, then there is a breakthrough in the core, and the cord must be replaced. If the multimeter does not respond in any way, then the contact on the plug and on the opposite end does not belong to the same core of the electrical wire. It is not recommended to use the multimeter in dial mode, as it works in the range from 0 to several hundred ohms. The next step is to inspect for dust and swollen capacitors. We clean the dust, change the capacitors. If no visual problems are found, and replacing the wire does not change the situation, take the player to a workshop.

The video below shows how the multimeter works.

How to ring a wire

If discs are not readable

Consider the main causes of failure and how to deal with them.

Head failure

Causes: the laser head is dirty or the laser is out of order.

The contaminated head is blown with compressed air using a conventional rubber bulb. The objective lens is wiped with a cotton swab moistened with alcohol. Solvents must not be used. You need to wipe it very carefully with light movements. If cleaning is not enough, the head must be replaced.

Video cleaning

Replacing the laser head

Patch cable fault

The train often breaks at the folds. We disassemble the player in the same way as when servicing the laser head. Carefully pull out the cable from the plugs. We examine. If there are visible breaks along the edges, and you do not want to change the cable completely, we make a preliminary repair. Trim the damaged area with scissors. We remove the insulation layer with a knife or blade so as not to break the metal strips. If it doesn’t work out neatly, then you can try to remove the insulation with a medical needle or zero sandpaper. The width of the removed layer should be the same as that of the cut piece of the plume. Remove the blue plastic end plate from the trim and similarly glue it to the updated edge of the plume with super glue.

Video loop recovery

Now, when visually the cable seems to be intact, we call its contacts. We attach one probe to the contact from one end, and the other in turn to all the contacts from the other end. We do the same on the other side of the loop. Each contact must call with one contact on the other side. If the contact rings with several, then there is a short circuit in the loop. If the contact does not ring with any other, then there is a break in the loop. In both cases, the loop cannot be used. It needs to be replaced.

Engine malfunction

If the motor rotates unevenly or does not rotate, then it must be replaced along with the nozzle.

Replacing DVD Engine with Video

If the tray does not open

When the cover of the player is removed, turn it on and press the eject button. Since the tray itself is not able to move forward, you need to push it slightly. But do it carefully so as not to get electrocuted. The lid will slide out and disconnect the player from the network. We take a stick with wound cotton wool and moisten it with alcohol. We wipe the rails of the tray. We press the button. If the problem is not fixed, we unscrew the necessary screws, remove the strips, plastic covers and get to the belt.

We change the belt and collect everything back. The video below shows a detailed replacement of the computer drive belt. In a DVD player, we work in a similar way.

Cleaning, lubrication, belt replacement

If the player does not see the flash drive

Most flash drives are originally formatted as NTFS. You need to insert the USB flash drive into the computer, copy the necessary information to the hard drive, right-click on the USB flash drive and select "Format". Next, select the FAT 32 format, agree that all data will be lost and click ok. If the DVD still does not see the flash drive, then the problem is in the electronics: the microcircuits may be damaged or the power supply in the wires or loops may be broken. It is worth turning to professionals.

Is it possible to flash a DVD player

Updating your device won't get rid of all your problems. Firmware can Russify the player. It will produce larger movies, fix errors in reading supported formats. But the player will not be able to read formats that were not supported before. Therefore, if the device works without lags, do not update it.

In order to find out if it is possible to flash your DVD player, you need to carefully read the device model on the back cover. Go to the official website of the manufacturer and see the firmware for this model. If they exist, then download the latest version to your computer, burn it to CD. We start the disc in the player. When the update is completed, the startup screen will appear on the TV or player screen, and the disc tray will automatically eject.

Complicated breakdowns

In addition to problems that any user who knows how to work with a screwdriver and pliers can fix, there are equally common, but more complex problems:

• display backlight not working
• sound distortion;
• no image and sound;
• no picture or sound;
• karaoke mode does not work;
• there is no color image;
• complex mechanical damage, including water ingress;
• failure of the power controller;
• microchip failure.

There are many manufacturers of DVD players. The principle of operation and the main elements of the devices are the same. Therefore, the repair of players from different manufacturers is similar. If you have a desire to try to repair the player yourself, go for it. Perhaps you will succeed, and you will be able to help your friends another time. Or maybe you will like it so much that you will be engaged in radio engineering and open your own business.

• How to clean laptop DVD

Although DVDs are becoming obsolete, they are still found on many computers and laptops. Many people have a licensed Windows system stored on disk and require a DVD drive to install it (although it can be burned to a flash drive and installed from there). Therefore, I want to consider in this article how you can, using simple tools, clean the DVD drive in your computer or laptop.

I have been using the method described below for many years and it has proven to be very effective.

The reason why the DVD drive began to work poorly, not read discs or do it intermittently, most often is dust on the laser lens. Here we will clean it.

Required tools:

• Philips screwdriver (cross);
• Regular paperclip (it needs to be straightened);
• Cotton swab or stick.

How to clean your computer DVD drive

First, remove the DVD drive from the computer. This is not required on a laptop.

Turn it upside down and unscrew the 4 screws that secure the lid.

Remove the lid very carefully and set aside. Our attention will be a board with electronic components.

Now we put the drive so that it looks at us with its front panel. We insert our unbent paper clip into a small hole designed for emergency opening of the drive tray. Feel free to press on the paper clip until the tray comes out a little from its place.

We pull out the tray manually to about half its length. Now remove the front plastic panel. To do this, you can press a screwdriver on the side latches.

Side panel latches

Now turn the drive upside down and carefully remove it from there.

Removing the DVD drive from the cover

Now you can see the very laser lens that needs to be cleaned. Consider it carefully. Most likely you will find small hairs or dust on it.

Do not try to remove dirt with your hands. There may be greasy stains that will be difficult to remove.

We take a cotton swab and lightly brush off the dirt from the lens. No need to polish the lens, just remove dust and hair.

Cleaning the lens with a cotton swab

After such a cleaning procedure for the drive, you need to assemble it in the reverse order.

How to clean laptop DVD

The procedure is the same as with the computer drive. Just don't take it apart.

Simply pull out the DVD tray and gently wipe the lens with a Q-tip.

Most likely, after such manipulations, the DVD drive will start reading discs that were previously ignored by it. If there is no noticeable improvement, most likely it can no longer be helped and only a replacement is required.

If you liked this guide, please like and share it with your friends.

PCgu.ru

How to fix the built-in optical drive in a laptop with your own hands

Damaged DVD or CD drive in laptops is the most common flaw in devices that have worked for more than 2-3 years. Dust that will definitely settle on the focusing lens after many years of operation, for sure, if it does not lead to a complete failure of the drive, then it will make its work less reliable and faster. The reason for the complete failure to perceive or write information from a computer to an optical medium may lie in both hardware and software malfunctions of the system. Remember: the optical disc drive in laptops can refuse to read information from DVD discs for a lot of reasons.

First, it is necessary to 100% eliminate the possibility of a software failure in the operating system. You can simply insert a disc into the drive that can be used as a bootable one. Either an installation distribution kit with Windows, or some kind of service disk designed to work with a hard drive, as well as to treat viruses, banners, prepare the system for installing an operating system from scratch, etc. will do. The main thing is to put in the BIOS that the DVD drive is the first to boot, i.e. it is from it, and not from the hard disk, that you need to boot. Probably, many who independently installed the operating system either from a disk or from a flash drive know what this is about. If the loading of such a disk is quite successful, then the problem should be looked for in the installed operating system, namely: in drivers, as well as in software products that can somehow change the system configuration of virtual and physical optical drives. Remove all dubious software for burning, copying DVD discs, and also check in the device manager whether your drive is correctly identified or not. Of course, it is almost impossible to describe all software malfunctions within the framework of one article, but you can give universal advice: do a system restore.

Secondly, if the drive refused to accept the boot disk, then most likely there is a hardware problem. Often the whole solution to the problem comes down to the fact that it is necessary to clean the focusing lens. Dust getting on this lens prevents the laser head beam from transmitting the signal reflected from the DVD disc normally. If at any stage of operation this led to read or write errors, then one “fine” day, the drive may simply refuse to read a completely blank and new disc. The most correct way to solve such a problem is to clean the focusing lens.

The Truth About Cleaning Discs

Now the so-called cleaning discs have become very widespread. The idea of ​​such discs is certainly good, but the technical execution is not always acceptable. Some samples can generally, instead of being useful, simply “finish off” the sensitive mechanisms and optics of the laser head. Also, improper use of cleaning disks can lead to the fact that the user himself will simply finally “finish off” the drive. Instructions for such discs are often written either in English or in Chinese, which makes understanding the principle of operation, purpose and use of such a disc simply inaccessible to a Russian-speaking person. The main mistake of users is the incorrect application of cleaning fluid. As a rule, you need to apply it only to certain cleaning bumps, and very little, placing the disc at an angle of about 45 degrees relative to the horizon. An excessive amount of this liquid simply floods the laser head, making reading information virtually impossible.

If we talk about Chinese cleaning discs from the category of 100-150 rubles, then their purchase will not be justified both from the practical and from the economic side. And if your problem is not in the lens, then this is money thrown to the wind. To protect the reputation of cleaning discs, we note that new non-contact cleaning discs have now begun to appear. Their main difference is that they work like wind turbines, that is, they blow through the laser head without direct contact. It is these cleaning discs that we recommend purchasing without fear of damaging the sensitive elements of the optical drive.

How to clean a DVD drive without a cleaning disc

Many master repairmen, although they themselves sometimes recommend the use of cleaning discs, but never use them. The cleaning disc is a solution for novice users and housewives. You can clean the drive much more professionally and better only when you take it out of the laptop and disassemble it. To disassemble the drive, you do not need any complex equipment and conditions. All you need is a table, a set of screwdrivers, a paperclip, a needle, a syringe, ear sticks, and isopropyl alcohol.

How to remove a drive

First, you need to turn off the laptop. Turn it face down, remove the battery.

No matter how ridiculous and unreliable it may seem, the fact remains: on all modern laptops, all fastening of the drive to the laptop is done with the help of 1 screw. Take a thin Phillips screwdriver and remove it.

Also, this method can be adopted when you urgently need to pull out the disk, and the electricity is turned off and the battery is low. After threading a needle or a paper clip into the technological hole, the drive will obediently open, and you can pull it out completely by pulling on the disc tray.

How to disassemble a drive

Turning the opened optical drive face down reveals the rear panel cover, which hides many important elements of the laser system.

You remove the 4 retaining screws, and the cover will obediently be removed without the slightest effort on your part. After removing the cover of the rear panel of the laser drive, we have access to the back of the laser diode, as well as the optical system.

Then you can put on the cover, and also tighten the 4 fixing screws.

How to clean a focusing lens

The lens is very sensitive to touch, so it is better not to touch it again with your hands or tools. For starters, you can try to limit yourself to purging from a can of compressed air.

If this does not help, then we recommend using an ear stick previously moistened with 90% isopropyl alcohol to wipe the lens. The second dry and clean end of the stick must remove the remaining alcohol. Remember that it is simply unacceptable to use cologne, moonshine, vodka for these purposes. You will only do harm. Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly, is relatively non-toxic, and does not leave marks on glass and lenses, which is very important within the framework of the technical task. Then it is necessary to dry everything again from a can of compressed air. It remains only to assemble everything, insert the drive and screw in the mounting screw. Assembly is simple and intuitive.

Finally, we note that in some cases, the breakdown still cannot be eliminated, since it can lie in a burned-out LED laser, in worn-out mechanics, in burned-out driver microcircuits, etc. Therefore, the last repair option is to completely replace the DVD drive.

muzhik-v-dome.ru

Do-it-yourself dvd drive repair

How to repair a CD-DVD drive yourself?

This is a short story with pictures about how you can revive a CD-DVD, and probably a Blu-Ray drive, without resorting to expensive help from specialists. There are several common causes that can lead to complete or partial inoperability of the drive. The elimination of these causes is not a repair, but rather a maintenance of the CD-DVD-ROM, and may well be performed by a user with some skills in working with electronic equipment. Read more at oldoctober.com

The most common causes of drive failure.

1. Deterioration of the drive belt (belt).
2. Increased friction in the loading mechanism.
3. Dirty laser lens.
4. Reduced laser efficiency.

To eliminate any of these causes, partial disassembly of the drive is required. The design of the drives may vary, so the accompanying pictures should not be taken absolutely.

Tools and materials.

For preventive work, we need the following tools, materials and components. oldoctober.com

1. Stationery clip.
2. Phillips screwdriver.
3. Medium sized brush.
4. Coarse calico (cotton fabric).
5. Silicone grease SI-130.
6. Belt.
7. Cleaning cloth.
8. Thin screwdriver.
9. Tweezers.

Begin. Disconnect the cables from the drive and unscrew the fixing screws. We take out the drive from the case of the system unit.

Disassembly.

Disassembly of any CD-DVD drive begins with the extension of the tray. To pull out the tray, you must first make a simple fixture from a paper clip.

Carefully, inserting the end of a paper clip into the technological hole on the front panel of the drive, we feel for the part of the mechanism that is responsible for blocking the tray. This part is located strictly opposite the hole. We press it and the tray extends slightly. Now it can be pulled out with your fingers.

We press the latches securing the front panel of the drive. First, we squeeze one of the side latches.

Then, we press the latch located at the bottom of the drive, and the other side latch.

We put forward the front panel, unscrew the four Phillips screws and remove the metal casing panels.

We press the latches and separate the tray from the main mechanism.

Thoroughly clean the mechanism of dust and dirt with a brush. If the old grease is heavily contaminated, then remove it with coarse calico and apply new grease.

We replace the worn out belt with a new one. Then we wipe the belt and the inner surfaces of the pulleys with a cleaning cloth or coarse calico soaked in alcohol.

Wipe the laser lens with a cleaning cloth. Dust deposited on the upper surface of the lens may not be visible to the naked eye, but it is almost always present there.

If the drive is very old, or known to have had too many discs written to it, and there is a read or write problem, then you can try to increase the laser current. This rather delicate operation requires patience and can take quite a long time. Do not start this procedure if your drive simply does not read a few old discs or discs recorded on other people's drives. This can be caused by a lot of different reasons, and the value of the laser current here is in 38th place.

It is best to adjust the laser current when the drive is in a semi-disassembled state.

To run the drive without the shroud and front panel, you will have to remove the front wall of the disc tray.

Somewhere on the carriage with the installed laser there is a small-sized potentiometer, the position of the engine of which determines the laser current. The location of this potentiometer depends on the design of the drive.

Before turning this screw, be sure to sketch the position of the slot in order to have a reference point, and indeed, so that in case something happens, we can return it to its original position.

Turning the screw 10-15 degrees first in one direction and then in the other direction, each time we check the quality of reading in some program, for example, Nero DiscSpeed.

It is only desirable to check on several types of media at once, for example, CD-R and CD-RW or DVD + R, DVD + RW, DVD-R, DVD-RW, etc. It's probably not necessary to check all supported media types, but check at least the ones you use all the time.

Multi-purpose universal drives are rather compromise products and therefore they often read some types of discs better, and some worse. For example, by increasing the laser current, you can get perfect CD-R reading and make half of your CD-RWs unreadable.

Assembly is not difficult, except for one moment. When inserting the tray into the loading mechanism, you need to align the latch of the loading slider with the guide slot located at the bottom of the tray.

The slider is usually spring-loaded, so you need to fix the slider in the correct position using tweezers or other suitable tool before inserting the tray into the guides. In the photo, the position of the slider is fixed with an awl.

If, quite by chance, you have at your disposal a small set of belts of different diameters, then you just need to choose the right copy. If there is no such set, then you will have to buy a belt.

And although the era of video and audio tape recorders has passed, you can still buy rubber belts in assortment on all kinds of radio markets.

When buying a belt, you need to pay attention to several of its parameters at once, such as: cross-section, diameter, elasticity and quality of vulcanization of the rubber from which it is made.

The section of the belt can also be determined by eye, since the probability that you will be able to find a belt of a strictly corresponding section is small.

The diameter of the belt can be determined by attaching the old belt to the new one and making sure that the diameter of the new one is slightly smaller than the old one.

Elasticity can be measured using an improvised stand, like the one in the figure.

I usually check the properties of the belt by touch without any dynamometers.

The quality of rubber vulcanization can be determined by color and tactile sensations. The color of the "wrong" rubber is deep black, and the surface is smooth and highly reflective. While the "correct" rubber has a slightly grayish tint and a more matte finish.

Also, the quality of rubber vulcanization can be determined by the recovery time of the original size. For the test, you need to strongly stretch the belt with your fingers and very quickly drop it flat on a flat surface. The faster the belt takes its original size, the higher its quality. If you can notice by eye how the diameter of the belt changes, that is, it seems to shrink, then such a belt will not last long and it is better not to use it at all. However, it is not a fact that you will find a high quality belt in the bazaar, and even exactly the same as required. Therefore, for lack of a better one, you can buy what is, but adjusted for diameter, cross section and elasticity.

And so, all these four parameters affect the properties of the belt. When choosing a belt, you need to consider all of them. If the cross section of the belt is slightly smaller, then you need to choose a slightly shorter belt and vice versa. If the quality of vulcanization is low, then you need to choose either a slightly larger section or a slightly smaller diameter.

If the belt is pulled too tight, it can lead to jamming or premature wear of the disc loading mechanism. If the belt is too loose, it can cause it to slip relative to the engine pulley.

If there are several belts with similar properties in the market, then it is better to immediately buy several different ones in order to choose the most suitable one at home. The price of a belt for a CD-DVD drive can range from $0.3 to $0.7.

related topics.

Reducing the noise of the computer system unit.

How to disassemble and lubricate the fan if it rumbles.

Installing Skype on PC-586.

oldoctober.com

Cleaning the DVD drive

As I wrote earlier in other articles, the biggest problem for a computer is dust. It is clogged wherever possible in such quantities that sometimes you are simply amazed. The DVD optical drive is no exception.

Dust, if the device is not cleaned, affects the operation of the drive tray, reduces the accuracy of the laser mechanism and affects the quality of the clamping mechanics. In general, a DVD drive should be cleaned at least once a year. Ideally, once every six months.

To clean and maintain your DVD drive, you will need lubricant, cotton swabs, and alcohol. After removing the DVD drive from the system unit, you need to remove its front panel. First of all, you need to pull out the drive tray. This is done with the help of any long and thin object (needles, paper clips, a piece of wire 3 cm long).

There is a small hole on the front panel of any DVD drive (item 2 on the bottom photo). Behind it (on the inside of the panel) is a mechanism for manually opening the tray. It is necessary to press this mechanism with a little effort through the hole and the tray will extend 1-2 centimeters, after which it can be pulled out manually to the end.

Next, remove the dust cover from the tray. To do this, turn the drive over and, bending the cover with your fingers, pull it down. On the cover, as a rule, there are two latches (item 1 on the bottom photo) and two guides on which the cover is held. It comes off without much effort.

Next, you need to drown the latches on the front panel. There are usually four (two on the bottom, two on the sides), or five (two on the sides, three on the bottom). After removing the front panel, the bolts (4 or 5 pieces) on the bottom cover of the DVD drive are unscrewed and the cover is removed.

Everyone knows the situation: we insert the disc into the DVD player, but the disc is “unreadable”.

Two possible reasons:

1. Damaged disk.

2. Malfunction in the DVD drive.

On the example of DVD HYUNDAI consider one of the options for repairing a DVD drive with your own hands. At first, the DVD “stopped reading discs”, and the malfunction either manifests itself or disappears, and as a result, it stopped working altogether.

Disassembling the DVD player

First, we always check the output voltages from the power supply. Is the voltage normal? Next, we look at the disk drive, for this we unscrew it and disconnect all connectors.

visual inspection

We visually check the connectors, cable, soldering, etc.

If the visual review did not give anything, move on.

Do-it-yourself DVD drive repair

During operation, the drive head constantly moves from place to place. As a result, it turned out that the four extreme conductors of the loop were in a cliff, the rest were also ready to come off just about. Pry off the insulation with a needle. You can see the broken path here.

If there is a break at the very beginning or end of the cable and its length allows, then you can carefully cut the tip of the cable with scissors and insert the cable into the connector.

But sometimes it is useless to repair the cable, it is constantly in operation, moves and bends, if soldered, then after a while it will break again. We must change. That's just the problem to buy exactly such a train is very difficult. But there was a way out! At hand was an old unusable drive from the computer. True, the train from it is wider and longer, but the distance between the conductive lines and their thickness is the same.

But it's even good that it's longer, because. will bend less, and there is enough space for it. Contacts fit perfectly, one to one!

We accurately measure the required width of the train, it is better to make it a little wider, and then carefully trim it to the desired width. Everything must be done carefully, especially the edges of the train. Now we put it in place.

We check the operation of the drive. So that the loop does not cling to anything.

Assembling the DVD player

Assemble the DVD player in reverse order. We put the drive, board, cable and connectors in their places, close the case, and enjoy watching your favorite movies 🙂

Good luck with the repair! Come to our Forum.

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