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Secrets of using different profiles for drywall. Step-by-step instructions for working on drywall: making the ceiling and walls with your own hands. Tools for work

What problems can arise when finishing drywall sheets? How can they be fixed? What should you do if the putty peels off or the structure breaks? What measures should be taken to eliminate defects in gypsum board finishing? How to bend plasterboard sheets? We will talk about this in our article.

After finishing finishing work on drywall, problems may appear that were not previously known, or the technology may have been violated due to oversight or negligence. In this article we will consider not the reasons for the appearance and elimination of cracks in plasterboard, but other common cases of defects and methods for correcting them.

Problem 1: The putty is peeling off

This phenomenon most often occurs in premises where repairs are carried out phenomenally quickly and cheaply. This defect can occur for many reasons.

Reason 1. Applying putty to a damp sheet

At this point, the cardboard is glued to the fresh putty, while at the same time its bond with the filling of the sheet is weakened. The sheet can become damp if stored incorrectly for a long time, as well as when priming (if it is not dried).

Note. There is no need to apply a primer before puttingty - it weakens the bond between the cardboard and the gypsum layer.

How to fix? Clean off any loose areas with a spatula and putty again.

Reason 2. Using stale or frozen putty

Sometimes an old one that has lost its properties is added to a fresh, high-quality (dry) mixture. Unscrupulous performers can make this rude move in the absence of the customer, which lies entirely on their conscience.

How to fix? See reason 1.

Reason 3. Oil stains on drywall sheets

The putty can last up to 30 days due to its own bond, and then peels off. Oil product stains are not primed with anything; these areas are subject to defect detection and removal.

How to fix? Clean the stained areas to clean plaster. If the stain area is large, replace the damaged area.

Reason 4. High humidity in the base or cavity between the gypsum board and the wall

Accompanied by the appearance of brownish stains. In this case, most likely, the gypsum board sheet gets wet through.

How to fix? Identify and eliminate the source of dampness, dry and treat with antifungal compounds. Replace the damaged section of the sheet (the frame does not need to be changed).

Problem 2. After installing the lighting fixtures, putty and paint defects became visible

This problem occurs when the performer lacks skill. In most cases, defects will appear if you simply paint the putty drywall without wallpapering it. This cheap and fast method is visually good during repairs - everything looks smooth and smooth. But when installing lamps, the light falls differently, and bumps and holes that were previously invisible often catch the eye.

Advice. To see defects in advance, hold the lamp close to the plane and look parallel to the light - the smallest tubercles will be shaded. The lighting should be turned off.

There are several methods to eliminate this effect.

Method 1: Shading

If expensive materials are used or rework is impossible, defects can be “hidden” in the shadows. To do this, select a lamp that is 50-100 mm away from the ceiling or wall and has a lampshade, “plate” or reflector on top. The task is to block the access of light to the plane and direct it in the opposite direction. If built-in lamps are provided, select a model in which the lamp will be recessed as much as possible and will not extend beyond the plane.

Method 2. Wallpapering

If you are not satisfied with the quality of the final drywall putty, but you don’t have the time or energy to make it perfect, paintable wallpaper will come to the rescue. There are many of them - thick with patterns, smooth non-woven, vinyl-based, etc. The most effective method masking defects in gypsum plasterboard surfaces - “ripple” coating. A fiberglass mesh is best suited for this. After installation, it can be painted with acrylic paint.

Method 3. Complete overlap

If there are serious defects along the entire plane of the plasterboard ceiling, you can simply glue ceiling slabs on top.

Problem 3. How to hang something on a wall or partition lined with gypsum board

When planning your living space, the question always arises about using walls to install decorative elements, furniture, shelves or household appliances. Stone and wood are perfectly anchored, but how will drywall cope with this? The problem is the main disadvantage of drywall - fragility.

Method 1. Light weight items

These could be watches, small paintings, jewelry. The self-tapping screw simply screws into in the right place. Weight limit: 0.5 kg.

Method 2. Light weight items

Small shelves, paintings and large clocks. There is a special spacer dowel for this. To install it in the gypsum board you need to drill a hole and simply insert it there. When screwing in a screw, the back part of the plastic dowel is pulled towards the back side of the sheet and increases the contact area, distributing the load from the screw along the plane. Weight limit: 2 kg.

Method 3. Objects and things of medium weight

Bookshelves, hangers, small household appliances. In this case, you may need a more powerful anchor with a plastic dowel. The hole is drilled into the plasterboard and drilled into the load-bearing wall. A dowel with an anchor is inserted there, but it is important to calculate its length in advance. It is better to hang the shelf in a combined way - the upper points with a pitch of 300 mm on the anchors, and the bottom with spacer dowels to distribute the load.

Another way is to find the edges of the frame using a magnet and attach the object to them. Weight limit: 5 kg.

Method 4. Heavy objects

Antique clocks, massive decorative elements, hallways, average household appliances. To install larger and heavier objects, it is wise to transfer their weight to the floor. To do this, we will need vertical racks made of boards (pre-treated to match the interior). In the upper part they need to be secured with anchors to load-bearing wall, and in the middle and bottom it is enough to install spacer dowels. Their task is only to hold the boards next to the wall. Weight limit: 12 kg.

Problem 4. How to easily and accurately make a plasterboard arch

It should be noted that a plasterboard sheet has a certain flexibility, which depends on the thickness of the sheet. So, for example, gypsum board with a thickness of 6.5 mm can be bent to a radius of 1 m, with a thickness of 9.5 mm - up to 2 m, and with a thickness of 12.5 mm - up to 2.75 m.

Note. The radius of a regular arch will be equal to half the width of the opening.

It turns out that unprepared drywall is suitable for openings from 2 to 4.5 meters. We will consider the method of bending gypsum boards with a smaller radius - up to 300 mm. The back plane of the arch is visible very well, so it should be as smooth as possible. There is an easy way to achieve a smooth bend without resorting to cross-cutting the sheet. It is also suitable for obtaining forms with several bends.

For this cardboard sheet with inside perforate with a needle roller or just an awl. This should be done carefully so that the puncture does not reach the middle of the plaster thickness. Then we moisten this surface with water or a primer and fix it to the finished frame or template. After drying, the sheet will retain its shape.

Problem 5. How to repair holes, gouges, dents or revision holes in drywall

The nature of the appearance of the described defects does not interest us; only their size is important. We recommend using special joint fillers Vetonit SILOITE, SheetRock or KNAUF Fugenfuller as a repair mixture:

Dents, holes, torn non-through scratches are cleaned and filled.
Through hole up to 50 mm. We apply the maximum amount of putty (as much as it will hold) to the edges, and carefully place a 2-3 mm piece of fiberglass mesh on top. The size of the flap should cover the hole by 20-30 mm. Smooth the putty into a plane with the wall.
Through hole more than 50 mm. Clean and trim the edges. We secure small pieces of slats or profiles on the inside of the sheet with a through passage of a self-tapping screw, holding it with your hand through the hole. They form a support along the reverse plane of the wall. We cut out a “seal” from the plasterboard in the shape of an opening so that it fits freely into it. We install the “seal” on the supports and fix it to them with self-tapping screws. We putty the plane through a painting mesh.
Break. May have a significant shape and area. First, you should assess the “scale of the disaster” (its area) by removing unusable parts of the drywall from the frame. Then you need to inspect and test the frame - perhaps it also requires repair. After putting the frame in order, we trim the boundaries of the break along the axes of the nearest profiles. If the frame does not have transverse profiles, stops should be installed on the free boundaries, described in the installation of the “seal” (above), or additional ribs should be installed. Then we fill the resulting opening with plasterboard, following the usual technology. We fill the seams with paint mesh.

As you have seen, 90% of drywall problems arise from the brittleness of the cured gypsum. However, fragility itself is at the same time the main advantage of this material. It is the weak crystal lattice that makes it easy to process, giving it the most bizarre shapes.

Often, when working with gypsum boards, serious mistakes are made, which some knowledge can help you avoid. The technology for installing drywall must be followed, no matter what type of work you choose. Naturally, some nuances, changes and additional requirements are possible, but the basis is the same for all DIY work with this material.

Where to begin

When starting plasterboard work in any room, you must understand the qualities and properties of the material; this is the only way you can determine how suitable or unsuitable the plasterboard is for such work. You must select the type of material, its size parameters, determine the type of drywall installation, frame rigidity, tools and materials, and only after that, having additionally drawn up a work plan, proceed to installing a wall, partition, communication duct, ceiling, arch or other structure .

Drywall and its types

This material has many varieties and types, differing in composition, thickness and application.

There are three main varieties:

GKL - standard;
GKLV - moisture resistant;
GKLVO – moisture and fire resistant.

The standard sheet of plasterboard is the most common in use, depending on the thickness and application it can be arched, ceiling and wall. The moisture-resistant material is created for the repair and decoration of premises with high level humidity. Sheets of this material are able to absorb excess moisture in the air and release it back when there is a shortage.

You should not be under the illusion that gypsum boards are completely waterproof. Moisture-resistant drywall is based on gypsum, which contains only a certain percentage of special additives that make the material moisture-resistant. When rough finishing a box or other gypsum board structures with your own hands, the surfaces must be primed.

Moisture- and fire-resistant drywall has improved characteristics in these two directions. It is used for fire protection of rooms with high, low and normal humidity levels.

Tools for work

Tool set home handyman, of course, can differ significantly from the “equipment” of a professional. However, there is a certain minimum, without which installation of drywall is simply not possible.

Assembly order

The main plasterboard structures include ceiling structures, as well as walls, boxes and partitions. The main mistakes home craftsmen make are when assembling these segments with their own hands. Knowledge of the technology and sequence of work when installing a ceiling, wall, box or partition and drywall guarantees a successful result in the end, as well as the durability and safety of the structure.

Knowing the technology for installing drywall on the simplest interior elements, you can learn how to install complex geometric shapes with your own hands.

Installation technology

It is important to work correctly with the marking and installation of the frame, followed by the usual covering of the frame with plasterboard, which will create a homogeneous, integral surface, or create an original multi-level ceiling.

When creating a frame for a box, you should remember what you plan to hide in it.

It is also important to remember that in addition to the standard profile for creating a ceiling box, certain accessories can be used to help with the work. In addition, sometimes you have to strengthen the structure, for example, if you want to install some communications, lighting, ventilation, and so on in the thickness of the ceiling.

Assembly Rules

Here, as in any other work with plasterboard sheets, several types of installation can be used, and each type has its own technology. It is necessary to remember about the frame and frameless method, understand that the frame can be wooden or metal, and the frameless method involves installing drywall with an adhesive composition.

It is possible to install drywall using Knauf technology, which requires a clear sequence consisting of preparation, installation of the frame, plasterboard wall covering and puttying of surfaces.

The most important step in similar work We consider drawing up a project, because it can include not only a drawing, but also all the costs of the work, which is very convenient.

Do not forget to immediately determine the type of work, because it will depend on whether it is worth leaving space for insulation in the wall, whether it is necessary to soundproof the room, make a separate box for communications, niches in the wall, and so on.

Box structure: installation nuances

The main objective of such a design is the decorative “framing” of some communications, unaesthetic elements or any fasteners. The process of installing a box on the ceiling is not much different from assembling a box on a wall or in a partition. The basis of the box, like any other plasterboard structure, is a frame made of a metal profile, which is covered with material. After rough finishing, the box can be decorated with any materials: be it sea stones with glass mosaic or ordinary paper wallpaper.

Partition installation technology

We believe that the main thing in the construction of such structures should be the design and its compliance, as well as clear markings, correct installation frame and its strengthening if necessary.

In a similar way, we can talk about many elements and stages, because plasterboard work includes both the technology for installing a frame for plasterboard, and decorative elements, installed indoors, and even the most basic things, such as shelves and small boxes. But it is worth paying attention to more complex structures, for example, fireplaces made of plasterboard, cabinets, walls with niches, etc.

Modern construction and renovation are unthinkable without the use of plasterboard boards in interior decoration. They are used not only to level walls and ceilings, but also to install partitions, cornices, niches and multi-level ceilings. This finishing material is very plastic and easy to use. It is easy to cut, creating even curved shapes.

The use of drywall made repairs much cheaper and of better quality. Self-installation plasterboard on the wall requires certain knowledge and compliance with some simple rules.

Types and sizes of plasterboard boards

Drywall is finishing material, having the form of a rectangular slab consisting of two layers of multi-layer paper and a gypsum mineral layer between them. The paper protects the gypsum from destruction and also retains the internal tension of the material inside the layers, which allows the sheet to be used in finishing works. According to its purpose, plasterboard is divided into ordinary, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant.

The sheets have standard sizes: length 2.5 or 3 meters, width 1.2 meters, thickness 6 mm, 9 mm, 12.5 mm. Sometimes you can find sheets with dimensions 1200x600x12.5 mm. It should be clear what is allowed with a sheet thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner types of sheets are intended for other purposes. This is the production of curved and bent surfaces.

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Basic technological methods for fastening plasterboard boards

There are several ways to securely attach plasterboard sheets to walls:

For glue. The base of the wall should be very strong and sufficiently primed, its surface should be smooth without significant differences. The glue is applied to the wall and to the sheet being glued, after which the surfaces are glued together by pressing. This method of constructing a plasterboard wall does not require large quantity instruments and allows you to create good sound insulation from structural noise.
On a special metal profile. The sheets are fastened to a pre-mounted strong metal frame made of a special profile. The frame is rigidly attached to the walls being finished. Installation of drywall on it is carried out using self-tapping screws of suitable size, which requires additional tools. This method does not provide good sound insulation.
On wooden blocks. Attached to the wall wooden beams of the same thickness, treated with a special compound that protects against mold and dampness. The sheets are attached to the bars using self-tapping screws or small nails. In this case, you need to be careful, since excessive impact on the slab can damage its integrity. Sound insulation can be added to plasterboard walls made in this way.

With any of the methods, you should take into account in advance the installation of electrical wiring and the location of electrical appliances in the room.

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Rules for cutting drywall parts

In order to cut drywall, you only need a paper knife, a ruler and a pencil. To grind the edges of a cut, you can effectively use an auxiliary tool: a special plane, a grater with sandpaper attached to it, or a large file.

Before cutting off part of the sheet, you need to mark it according to size using a ruler and pencil. Then cut the paper layer with a knife on one side. After this, you need to bend the sheet of drywall at an angle of 90 degrees towards the cut and cut the paper on the opposite side. The cut will be fairly even. Now you need to chamfer it. To do this, paper layers are cut off on both sides of the sheet at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the cut. This is done to avoid paper tearing. Now we chamfer the edge with a knife at an angle of 45 degrees. Irregularities are smoothed out using an auxiliary tool.

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The procedure for installing a plasterboard wall

Before you begin installing drywall on the walls, you should do some preparatory work. It is necessary to carry out preliminary installation of electrical wiring. To do this, we fix wires on the walls in corrugated protective tubes and mark the places where sockets, switches and distribution boxes exit to the surface. You should immediately stretch the horizontal wires at the level of the junction boxes, and the vertical wires straight up from the switches and sockets. It is forbidden to place wires inside a metal profile, as self-tapping screws will be screwed into it.

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Installation of a metal profile frame

Before installing the frame, the walls are marked. To do this you will need the following construction tools:

Liquid rack level.
Roulette or ruler.
Any plumb line.
Pencil.
Lace or rope.

With their help, the location of all elements of the future frame is measured and recorded on the wall. All angles must be right, and the elements must be strictly vertical and horizontal. Before installing drywall on the walls, it is necessary to know where hanging furniture or other interior items will be mounted. This will strengthen such places for future use. The marking of vertical and horizontal frame elements is made taking into account the size of the foxes. In the future, this will make the installation of drywall more convenient.

Then, strictly according to the markings, a metal profile frame is installed. To install it you will need the following tool:

Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Metal scissors.
Bulgarian.
Pliers.

The metal profile is cut into pieces of the required length, which are connected to each other using a T-shaped connection or using special cross-shaped “crabs”. In this case, self-tapping screws are used. This structure is attached to the walls using U-shaped construction hangers. Each of them must be firmly fixed to the wall with two self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the level of the surface on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached. To do this, strings are pulled between the first and last vertical guides, which are positioned with the required clearance from the wall. All other guides should touch the laces, but not retract them. The frame for drywall must be stable and durable.

Many of us are sure that drywall is modern construction material, which came into use only at the end of the last century. No! In fact, this type of material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, production technologies have changed during this time, but this does not change the following fact: everyone can master the basic aspects of handling drywall on their own.

As a rule, today no one uses wooden bars to mount the frame; instead, U-shaped metal profiles are used.

Working with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.

Guide profiles for creating a frame, also often called PN or UW. They have a standard depth of 40 mm, and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as the previous profiles, but are used for installing suspended ceilings.
Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and lintels. They are inserted into guides and secured to the ceiling with hangers, crabs, and anchor clamps.
Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is necessary to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed into guides.

The main fastening elements for the frame profile are self-tapping screws, the length of which ranges from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and assembly pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling using anchors or dowel-nails.

Do not be intimidated by the large set of parts used when installing drywall. This is far from full list what professional builders use. In addition, do not forget that one-time work only implies the presence of direct hangers, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.

Particular attention should be paid to the tools for installing drywall on walls.

Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill, the impact force of which is 3-5 J. Using a hammer drill, making a hole in concrete is much easier than using an impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the hammer drill is perfect for mixing various mixtures for putty and installation. For this you need a special mixer attachment.

Equally important is a cordless screwdriver with a set of special attachments for screwing screws with different types hats

In addition to power tools, hand tools are also used:

hammer;
metal scissors;
screwdriver;
stationery knife;
markers;
laser level or hydraulic level;
planer for drywall;
pliers.

To attach one frame post with a height of 2.5 m to the wall, use five direct hangers, that is, 1 hanger every 50 cm.

To secure each, two anchors are used; a total of 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.

How to work with drywall

Working with drywall means, first of all, creating a frame and then covering it. Usually, leveling walls, erecting partitions, arches and niches.

Installing drywall with your own hands is as follows.

- Step back from the wall at least 3 cm (profile width), and make marks: using a plumb line or laser level, draw a line on which the plasterboard wall will be located.
- Attach the main guide UD profiles to the floor and ceiling. Their edge should follow your line.
- After this, you need to install vertical racks from CD profiles. To do this, they are inserted into the guides and screwed to each other with self-tapping screws.
- To give rigidity to the CD profiles, they are attached to the wall every 50 cm using hangers, which are fastened to the wall with two dowel nails. The hangers are screwed to the profiles with self-tapping screws, and their corners are bent.

- The width of a standard sheet of plasterboard is 120 cm, so the distance between the centers of CD profiles is 60 cm.
- After mounting the frame, insulation, electrical wiring, water pipes or heating pipes.
- When installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling, not only direct hangers are used, but also wire ties and “butterflies”, which have special steel “wings” that fix the ties at the required distance from the ceiling.

Types of fasteners for creating a frame

assumes that you use special fastenings for this - anchors.
Self-tapping screws for installing drywall are screwed in in increments of 25-30 centimeters.

If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, you can very easily do it yourself. To do this, use a utility knife to cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the gypsum layer, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after the break.

How to seal sheet joints

After installation is completed, it is necessary. When joining entire sheets, the edges must form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut to ensure a triangular seam.

Use putty to fill the installation joint. The joint is reinforced with a painting mesh (serpyanka). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To strengthen the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.

If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, use a spiked roller to make holes in a sheet of cardboard and moisten it generously with water. After 10-15 minutes, the plaster will get wet, and you can give it any shape without any problems.
This technique is often used for and.

Nowadays, not a single apartment renovation can be done without this. practical material like drywall. If you learn how to work with it correctly, you will be able to create amazing designs for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.

Tags: Walk-in closet, wardrobe, partition.

Lesson No. 2 - Partition made of gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) with shelves. Video tutorial strictly on the technology of constructing frame partitions.

Tags: partition, shelf, frame, gypsum fiber, drywall.

Lesson No. 3 - Three ways to form curved surfaces from plasterboard. Dry and wet bending method on a frame, bending using cuts. Video from Knauf

Tags: wet bending, dry bending, bending according to patterns, bending with cuts.

Lesson No. 4 - Video instructions from Knauf on the construction of a plasterboard partition on a frame made of a rack profile.

Tags: partition, drywall, frame.

Lesson No. 5 - Step-by-step instructions for installing a socket and socket box in a plasterboard wall.

Tags: drywall, socket, socket box, wiring.

Lesson No. 6 - Video on sealing joints of plasterboard sheets on walls and ceilings. Strictly according to technology.

Tags: joints, drywall, putty, finishing.

Lesson No. 7 - Comparison of the strength of a metal profile connection using a cutter and a screwdriver. German test.

Tags: cutter, screwdriver, profile, screw.

Lesson No. 8 - Detailed video instructions for covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house. Features and nuances when installing a floating frame.

Tags: wooden house, drywall, frame, sheathing.

Lesson #9 - How to seal a doorway using drywall. Detailed video instructions.

Tags: doorway, partition, drywall.

Lesson No. 10 - Video lesson on finishing an attic with plasterboard on a metal frame. Ceiling cladding in a wooden house.

Tags: wooden house, attic, ceiling, drywall, frame.

Lesson No. 11 - Professional recommendations for installing wiring in a wooden house. The nuances of wiring under plasterboard sheathing.

Tags: wooden house, wiring, cladding, drywall.

Lesson No. 12 - Instructions for installing a ceiling in the “Starry Sky” style.

Tags: ceiling, drywall, starry sky

Lesson No. 13 - Video about drywall production technology

Tags: drywall, technology, safety

Lesson No. 14 - Video instructions for applying liquid wallpaper to the wall. Preparation of solution, application technology.

Tags: liquid wallpaper, decoration, walls

Lesson No. 15 - Step-by-step lesson on finishing external and internal corners. Corner putty and drywall finishing

Tags: drywall, joints, corners, putty.