Schefflera flower care at home. Schefflera is a flower that can be easily cared for at home. The magical properties of sheflera

Plant shefflera (lat. Shefflera), or Scheffler, or umbrella tree, belongs to the largest genus of plants in the Araliaceae family, numbering about 200 species. The Schefflera flower received its name either in honor of the German botanist Jacob Christian Scheffler, who lived in the 18th century, or in honor of the Polish scientist Peter Ernest Jan Scheffler. In nature, representatives of this genus are vines, shrubs or trees, reaching a height of two and a half meters and growing in the tropics of Australia, South-East Asia and on the islands Pacific Ocean. Some are in demand in culture garden forms Schefflera with variegated foliage, Schefflera was grown in the house relatively recently.

This is an exotic relaxation plant that absorbs negative energy like a sponge, saturates the air with oxygen and increases its humidity.

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Planting and caring for cheflera

• Bloom: the plant is grown as an ornamental foliage plant.
• Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, bright diffused light or light partial shade in the second (eastern and western window sills). You can keep the sheflera near the south window, but behind a light curtain. Variegated varieties are more light-loving than forms with monochrome leaves.
• Temperature: during the growing season - usual for residential premises, in winter - 16-18 ˚C, lower temperature threshold - 12 ˚C.
• Watering: regular, moderate, rare during cool winters.
• Air humidity: above average. It is recommended to spray the leaves with warm soft water, especially in hot weather and during wintering in a warm room.
• Feeding: from March to August 2-3 times a month with complex fertilizer for decorative deciduous crops. The rest of the time, no fertilizing is applied.
• Rest period: from September to February.
• Transfer: Young plants are replanted annually, adults - as needed. Transplantation is carried out in the spring, at the beginning of active growth.
• Reproduction: seeds, air layering and cuttings.
• Pests: aphids, thrips, scale insects, spider mites.
• Diseases: from chronic waterlogging of the soil - root rot, due to poor care - loss of decorative qualities.

Read more about growing sheflera below.

Schefflera flower - description

Scheffler's home flower is an ornamental foliage plant with palmately dissected leaves with 4-12 lobes, which look like a palm with outstretched fingers, solid green or variegated colors with yellow or white spots and streaks. Sheflera inflorescences are elongated, racemose, similar to tentacles, but you are unlikely to be lucky enough to see them, since the plant blooms only in nature or in botanical garden. Typically, an indoor sheflera is formed in the form of a tree, like Ficus Benjamin, or in the form of a bush. The shoots of the plant are thin, so when growing into one trunk it must be attached to a support.

Schefflera is relatively unpretentious, so it will not be difficult to grow it even for a novice gardener, but it should be remembered that the plant contains substances that irritate the skin and mucous membrane, so care must be taken when caring for it.

Caring for sheflera at home

How to care for Schefflera

Schefflera is a light-loving plant, so it is placed on a southern, western or eastern windowsill, but during periods of too much sun activity, the plant is covered from direct rays with a light curtain. If you have already received an adult large sheflera, install it near the south window in close proximity to the curtains. In an apartment where there is little light, you should not grow variegated varieties, since they are more light-loving than shefleras with green leaves: due to lack of lighting, variegated leaves become monochromatic.

In summer, the cheflera takes well to outdoor holidays in light partial shade, protected from wind and drafts.

The air humidity in the room where the cheflera is located should be above average, and although the plant easily adapts to room conditions, daily spraying with settled water will have a beneficial effect on it. When dust accumulates on sheflera leaves, it is advisable to give it a shower or wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.

IN winter time When heating appliances are operating in the apartment, the shefflera is placed on a tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles, but in such a way that the roots of the plant do not touch the water. As for the temperature, in the summer the cheflera feels normal at the usual temperature for this time, but in the winter she is more comfortable in conditions of 16-18 ºC, lower limit winter temperature for the plant is 12 ºC.

Water the sheflera with settled water, preventing the earthen clod from drying out. However, you should refrain from too frequent and abundant watering, which can lead to acidification of the soil and rotting of the roots. The water temperature for watering the cheflera should be the same as the temperature in the room, or a couple of degrees warmer.

Sheflera transplant

It is advisable to replant young plants annually in the spring, and adult plants once every few years, as the pot fills with roots. The container is 5-6 centimeters in diameter larger than the previous pot. Before replanting the shefflera, place a thick layer of drainage in the pot, which will prevent water from stagnating in the roots.

The soil for sheflera requires light, permeable, but at the same time fertile. A soil mixture of three parts compost soil, one part fibrous peat and one and a half parts coarse sand is best suited to the tastes of sheflera, although universal store-bought soil or soil for palm trees will also work. IN new pot with a drainage layer, carefully transfer it to the shefflera along with earthen lump, add the required amount of soil mixture, lightly compacting it. After transplantation, the plant is watered.

Sheflera fertilizer

Caring for sheflera at home requires mandatory fertilization of the soil in which it grows. Feed the shefflera two to three times a month from March to August with complex mineral fertilizers for ornamental foliage plants in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, alternating them with a powder of crushed eggshells in the amount of one tablespoon. In winter, the cheflera does not need fertilizing.

Schefflera in winter

When the dormant period begins, the sheflera is placed in a bright room with a temperature no higher than 16-18 ºC, where it will remain until spring. Schefflera in winter does not need such frequent and abundant moisture as in summer time, but the principle of watering remains the same: as the top layer of soil in the pot dries. We remind you: in winter the cheflera does not need fertilizers.

Homemade sheflera - reproduction

How to propagate sheflera

Schefflera is propagated at home by seeds, air layering and cuttings. The most in a simple way propagation is by cuttings, especially since indoor sheflera does not bloom and, therefore, does not produce seeds.

Reproduction of shefflera by cuttings

To take cuttings, you need to cut off the most developed semi-lignified shoots, cut them into cuttings with two internodes with a sharp knife, treat them with a growth stimulator - hold them in a solution of Heteroauxin for 6-8 hours, and immediately before planting, dip them in Kornevin. Schefflera cuttings are planted in pots filled with a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions, covered with a transparent cap and, maintaining the temperature under it within 22 ºC, place the cuttings under bright diffused light.

From time to time, the soil is moistened with a spray bottle and the cap is removed briefly to ventilate the cuttings. When the shoots take root, they are moved to a temperature of 18-20 ºC, and when the roots fill the entire pot, they are transplanted into a larger container and kept at a temperature of 14-16 ºC until complete rooting.

Sheflera propagation by seeds

If you purchased sheflera seeds, sow them in January or February in a disinfected mixture of peat and sand in equal parts or in a sterile leaf substrate, turf land and sand. Seeds are also subject to treatment before sowing: they are soaked in a solution of Epin or Zircon. Seed the seeds to a depth equal to three times the size of the seed, after which the crop is watered, covered with film and placed in a warm place, maintaining the temperature under the film within 20-24 ºC. From time to time the film is opened slightly to ventilate and moisten the substrate.

If you have the opportunity, arrange bottom heating for the crops - this will speed up the germination of seedlings. At the development stage, seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, they are planted in separate containers with a diameter of 7-9 cm and kept at a temperature of 14-16 ºC. With normal development by autumn, the seedlings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm with a substrate consisting of turf, leaf soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1.

Sheflera propagation by layering

Large plants reproduce by air layering. To do this, the cheflera trunk is cut vertically, the cut site is wrapped in damp sphagnum moss, which is previously moistened with a nutrient solution of 1 g of complex fertilizer in a liter of water or phytohormone, and on top of this part of the trunk with the moss is hermetically wrapped with polyethylene. The moss must be wet all the time, so you will have to remove or lift the film from time to time.

After a while, roots form at the site of damage to the trunk, and two months after their appearance, the entire upper part of the tree is cut off under the area where the roots have formed and transplanted into a separate pot. The lower part is cut off almost to the root and the remaining stump continues to be watered. It is quite possible that it will produce young shoots.

Pests and diseases of shefflera

Schefflera turns yellow

With improper or insufficient care, shefflera is affected by scale insects, red spider mites and thrips. As a result of the vital activity of these insects, the plant loses its decorative properties: the leaves of the sheflera turn yellow, its growth slows down, and eventually it dies. To avoid the death of the plant from insects, regularly inspect the shefflera, and when the first pests appear, remove them from the plant with a rag or cotton swab soaked in a soapy solution. If you missed their appearance and they have already occupied the plant, treat the sheflera with a solution of Karbofos or Actellik (15-20 drops per 1 liter of water), just make sure that the chemicals do not get into the soil. If the pest infestation is very severe, the treatment will have to be repeated after two weeks.

Yellow spots on the cheflera occur from too bright light. Move the plant deeper into the room or shade it with a curtain from direct lines. sun rays.

Schefflera sheds its leaves

It happens that there are no pests on the plant, but, nevertheless, the shefflera crumbles. Why does the cheflera fall off? The reason for the falling of leaves in sheflera may lie in conditions that are uncomfortable for the plant. For example, if the room temperature is below 14 or above 30 ºC for a long time. Or in the case when its roots rot from chronic waterlogging.

How to save the cheflera from death in this case? You need to remove it from the pot, carefully remove the rotten sections of the roots, then dip the Schefflera roots in a solution of Epin or Zircon, then treat them with Fitosporin or sprinkle with crushed coal, replant them in a fresh, damp substrate and put a transparent plastic bag on the plant, removing it sometimes for ventilation and soil moisture. The package can be finally removed in 5-7 days.

Sometimes the leaves of shefleras fall off due to insufficient lighting; variegated forms of the plant especially suffer from this.

Schefflera turns black

Readers often complain that Schefflera leaves turn black, starting from the tips. This usually happens when indoor air humidity is low or due to poor watering. Correct these deficiencies in care, and gradually the plant will restore its shape.

Schefflera - signs

When a shefler is accused of energy vampirism, one must admit that there is some truth in these accusations. Sheflera does absorb energy, but only negative energy, so don’t panic, but, on the contrary, try to spend some time next to her, especially if you are overcome by anxious or sad thoughts. Sheflera removes negativity and brings a feeling of harmony, helps to stop quarrels in the family. The best place in the house for the shefflers there is a bedroom. It is there that you relax during sleep, and the shefflera absorbs all your anxieties and neuroses, instilling vigor and peace.

Sheflera can be placed in the office or next to a schoolchild’s study corner, since esotericism suggests the plant’s ability to promote the productive acquisition of knowledge.

They also claim that with the help of sheflera you can predict the future. For example, those phenomena that we just explained by objective reasons are interpreted differently in the world of superstitions. For example:

• if the leaves of the sheflera darken, this is a sign that there is a lot of negative energy in the room;
• if the cheflera falls off, this is a harbinger that someone living in the house will get sick, or a financial collapse will occur, the loss of a large amount of money;
• when the leaves of a plant curl up, this means a scandal with household members or work colleagues - it depends on where the plant is located;
• if the cheflera stopped its development for no apparent reason, this is an omen of future failures;
• unexpected intensive growth of the shefflera - a new addition to the family.

There is an opinion that a chef growing in the office attracts clients and good business partners, and, therefore, one can expect an increase in income. By the way, the plant helps most of all people born under the fire signs of the zodiac - Aries, Leo and Sagittarius.

Types and varieties of cheflera

A very impressive appearance with an unusual arrangement of leaves: 8-10 elongated lanceolate shiny leathery leaves with a pointed apex 30-40 cm long and about 10 cm wide on drooping cream petioles. When the leaves are young, they are olive green in color; when they age, they become lighter, and the veins become lighter than the leaf blade. The underside of the leaves is matte, pale green.

She's the same Aralia schefflera originally from New Zealand. This tree is from 3 to 8 m high with palm-shaped leaves, dissected into 7-10 lobes, 15 to 35 cm long. The lobes are lanceolate, thin, parchment-shaped, oblong pointed, 6 to 8 long, 4 to 6 cm wide. Old lobes are the edges are serrated, young feathery or unevenly lobulated. The petioles are cylindrical in cross-section, from 7 to 20 cm long. Small flowers are collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences in quantities of 4 to 8 pieces.

A tree with an erect branching stem. Young shoots of this species are green, old shoots are light brown. The leaves, unlike other species, are imparipinnate-compound, up to 20 cm long. This species has several varieties:

• Gold Capella - this variety appearance resembles a palm tree. Its leaves are green with small yellow spots;
• Amate is the most pest and disease resistant variety with bright green leaves that does not require bright lighting.

Schefflera radiata

Or star (Schefflera actinophylla) - the most common cultivated species with a powerful, erect gray-brown trunk, thickened at the base. Palmately compound leaves, consisting of 7 ovate lobes with a barely wavy edge, are located on very long red-brown petioles. The original form has bright green, shiny leaves. Some lobes are so wide in the middle that their edges overlap each other. The veins are lighter than the leaf blade. This species has many varieties:

Shade Tolerant Aralia Plants on Sh

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Reproduction of sheflera is not too difficult and time consuming. The process can be carried out in 2 ways: vegetatively (cuttings, air layering and leaves) and genetatively (seeds). How to propagate sheflera and after a while turn your windowsill into a real jungle? Quite simple. To do this, you need to know a few secrets of experienced flower growers.

The optimal temperature for sheflera will be 20º C, and in winter 12º C is acceptable. This is a light-loving plant, so it must be carefully protected from drafts and cold, placing the flower on the brightest side of the windowsill. The color will tell you about the lack of salt lick: if the bright variegated color suddenly turns green, you need to move the flowerpot to another place, otherwise the plant will begin to shed its leaves and wither. However, in hot summer weather, the sheflera needs to be protected from direct sunlight, which can cause burns on the leaves.

Do not water the plant too much. If the ground is still damp, no more water will be needed, but the soil should not be dry. You can revive such a flower by immersing a container with soil in warm water for 15 minutes.

Typically, dry fertilizers are not used to care for cheflera. To nourish the plant, only liquid fertilizers are used once every 2 weeks in the summer and once every 2 months in the winter. In addition, the flowerpot should sometimes be sprayed with a spray bottle (the water should be room temperature). If there are several other types of plants nearby, this procedure will not be necessary, since other seedlings will produce a sufficient amount of moisture.

For the first time, a flower is transplanted immediately after propagation, and then as needed. How to determine this moment? Once every few years you should take out the plant with a lump of earth and inspect it. root system. If it thickly entwines the soil, the sheffler needs to be replanted.

Each new pot or plant box should be several centimeters larger than the previous one. Transplantation can be done in several ways. Usually the plant is simply transferred from one pot to a larger one. The transshipment method involves replanting the sheflera without a clod of earth: drainage is placed at the bottom of the container, a plant and a new layer of soil are placed on top.

Transplantation with cuttings and seeds

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest option for gardeners. Flower growers use semi-lignified elements cut in the spring. The stalk is cut with a knife or scalpel. To do this, you need to hold the barrel and carefully deepen the blade, but under no circumstances break off the barrel. At the same time, you should not saw it too actively.

So, how does a plant reproduce in stages? The florist should work with gloves and a protective mask if a person is prone to allergies or suffers from asthma, since sheflera has a pronounced, pungent odor. For propagation at home, it is better to select well-developed cuttings, and before planting in the ground, keep the sprouts in a heteroauxin solution overnight. Cuts should be treated with a root formation stimulator or crushed activated carbon. This way, it will be easier to cope with further planting.

There are 2 methods of rooting: using water or substrate. To root sheflera in water, after about a month (for variegated varieties this needs to be done later), plant the cuttings in the ground and cover them with a bag, having previously made holes in it for ventilation (can be replaced with a glass jar). Every day you need to remove the bag for half an hour so that the plant has access to fresh air.

Substrates may be different. The most common are soil and sand (necessarily coarse-grained). With this method, the bag is put on immediately, but otherwise the rooting procedure is the same as in the case of water.

Additionally, drainage material (pieces of brick) is added to the bottom of the pot. The container is filled, leaving a few centimeters to the top, and the cuttings are planted in the ground. After this procedure, the seedling is placed on a well-lit windowsill, trying to maintain an optimal temperature of up to 23º C. Sometimes it will be necessary to ventilate the plant, gradually increasing the time and frequency.

A longer process is planting sheflera using seeds, which can only be purchased, since it is impossible to obtain them yourself. It is optimal to plant them at home in winter; in extreme cases, this should be done before the end of March. The soil should be loose and allow the plant access to oxygen and moisture. For beginners, it is good to use ready-made purchased soil, and for more experienced gardeners, peat and sand. Before planting, the seeds are kept in a zircon solution.

The seed should be planted to a depth of 0.5 cm, then watered, covered with film, and placed in a warm place. Once a day, remove the film for ventilation. After about a month, when the seedlings appear, the seedlings are transferred to a well-lit place, and if possible, lower the temperature to 15º C. During the heat, be sure to spray the growing plant with a spray bottle.

Other breeding methods

Reproduction of sheflera by layering is suitable for larger species. In spring, a cut is made on the trunk, which is wrapped in damp moss and reinforced with film on top. In about a month, the first roots will appear, but subject to constant moisture of the moss. The latter can be replaced with a regular sterile bandage, but this way the shefflera will multiply worse.

Next, the stem must be cut below the roots and planted in a special mixture. In Schefflera, propagation by air layering is not always effective, so this method is most often chosen experienced gardeners. They usually experiment, look for new ways of reproduction, without expecting a 100% result.

The method of propagating sheflera by leaf is also suitable for more experienced ones. A large leaf is torn from a whole bush and placed in a container with water and a growth stimulator. Instead of a pot at home, sometimes they use cotton wool soaked in water and a stimulant or plastic bottle without bottom.

The workpiece should be placed on the battery and covered with a bag or transparent container. Flower shops sell specialized domes for plants. The shefflera takes root in about 2-3 weeks, after which it is transplanted into the ground. To do this, drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot, and a mixture of turf (2 parts), humus and sand (1 part each) is poured on top.

The pot is placed on the radiator next to the workpiece to maintain the same temperature in both containers. You need to remove the leaf from the dome gradually, slightly opening its access to oxygen. The temperature is also gradually reduced to 20° C. Transplantation is carried out as the plant grows.

1. Growing temperature: throughout the year, fairly cool conditions at a temperature of 16 - 18 degrees Celsius are suitable for shefflera.

2. Lighting: Brightly lit location with shade from direct sun.

3. Watering and air humidity: in spring and summer, dry the soil 2 - 3 centimeters deep before each subsequent watering; in winter, simply protect the earthen ball from drying out completely if the plant is in a cool place. Air humidity is quite high.

4. Trimming: Regular pruning and pinching of the tips of young shoots to form a compact and bushy plant.

5. Priming: a well-drained and nutritious substrate that easily allows moisture and air to pass to the roots of the flower.

6. Top dressing: from spring to autumn, feed monthly with mineral fertilizers for decorative foliage plants.

7. Reproduction: rooting of stem and leaf cuttings, rarely - by seeds.

Botanical name: Schefflera.

Schefflera domestica - family. Araliaceae.

Homeland of the plant. Australia and Oceania.

What it looks like. The genus consists of approximately 900 evergreen shrubs, vines or low trees. Most indoor plants are shrubs with erect stems. With age stems become lignified and covered with light brown bark.

Complex leaves Schefflers have very long petioles and are arranged alternately on the stems. The leaves consist of oblong-oval segments arranged in a circle, the number of segments varies from 5 to 14. In green-leaved species, the leaves are solid green; variegated varieties are distinguished by the presence of white or yellow spots on the leaves.

In nature, shefflera is thrown away flower stalks, bearing many small, often reddish flowers. After flowering, the plant forms rounded berries.

Height. In its natural environment, the Schefflera flower takes on impressive sizes and can reach 14 m. in height. IN room conditions plants are pruned or low varieties are grown.

The size of plants at home is also affected by the volume of the pot - in cramped containers, plant development slows down.

2. Schefflera care at home

2.1.Reproduction, growing from a leaf

Schefflera breeds stem cuttings under a cover made of transparent plastic or glass using growth hormones.

Rooting is quite easy, sometimes even in a simple glass of water in spring and summer. It is worth adding to the water for rooting a large number of crushed charcoal.

It is advisable to treat the bases of the cuttings with growth hormones and cover the young plants with a transparent plastic cap or a simple plastic bag to maintain uniform humidity.

2.2.Transplant

Young plants are planted annually into fresh soil and a larger pot, adults - transplant every 2 - 3 years.

For tuber bushes, the replanting of which is difficult, the top layer of the mixture is replaced with fresh soil annually.

The plant should be given a fairly spacious pot to increase the feeding area.

2.3.When it blooms

At home, flowering occurs very rarely. In nature, plants bloom during the summer months.

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2.4.How to care for shefflera, pruning

The plant is very popular in culture due to its spectacular appearance and ease of cultivation.

Wipe occasionally leaves plants with a damp sponge to remove dust.

Trim the Schefflera in the fall to maintain a compact shape. The plant responds to pruning by the appearance of a large number of side shoots, which allows it to form a thick and lush crown.

Pinch apical buds of young plants to form a dense crown.

Provide long stems support for growth.

Periodically turn the pot with the shefflera on different sides facing the light source so that the plant develops symmetrically.

2.5.Diseases and pests

• Yellowing and abscission leaves may be caused by stagnation of moisture at the roots.
• With periodic flooding, the plant becomes sluggish and this behavior encourages novice gardeners to water, which further aggravates the situation.Unfortunately, this situation often leads to the death of the sheffler.
• When there is a lack of light, plants become elongated.
• As the plant ages, it may lose lower leaves and expose the stems - such plants should be subjected to radical anti-aging pruning.
• Lack of moisture causes the plant drop leaves.
• The leaves are getting smaller and fade due to lack of nutrients.
• If there are cold drafts in the room or if you are located near heating devices plants may lose leaves.

Among the harmful insects that can attack the flower are mealybugs, aphids and red spider mites, and scale insects.

Insects - pests

Insect name	Signs of infection	Control measures
Mealybug	The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development	Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals : green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Spider mite	Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down.	Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik.
Aphid	Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, the leaf blades curl and become deformed, tender buds and young leaves wither. Colonies of insects can be seen on the tips of shoots, buds or the underside of leaf blades. The flowers of plants affected by aphids may become deformed.	Traditional methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment of green mass with green potassium soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Scale insect and false scale insect	Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. When scale insects become widespread, they cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development	Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon.

2.6.Soil

Loose nutrient soil with good drainage.

A mixture will do garden soil with leaf humus, peat, with the addition small quantity coarse river sand and crushed charcoal.

2.7.Watering

The frequency of watering will depend on the ambient temperature.

When kept in a room with a temperature above 20° C, maintain the soil evenly moist, but not swampy. At a temperature of about 16 ° C - dry the top layer of soil with a thickness of about 3 cm. between waterings.

A few minutes after watering, excess moisture from the pan should be drained.

2.8.Fertilizers for shefflera

In spring and summer feed liquid fertilizers monthly. In autumn and winter, plants are given rest and feeding is stopped.

2.9.Lighting

A brightly lit place with big amount reflected sunlight, but without access to direct rays.

Plants also develop well in partial shade, but they can react to a lack of light by yellowing and dropping leaves.

2.10.Temperature

She prefers Schefflera at home cool conditions and does not like extreme heat.

Throughout the year, it is advisable to keep plants at a temperature 16 - 18 °C. At higher room temperatures, the frequency of watering and air humidity should be increased.

During the winter months Not expose plants to temperature below 10°C.

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2.11.Spraying

Increase humidity with tray with wet pebbles or room humidifier, and also surrounding the pot with a layer wet sphagnum moss.

Spray The plant can be washed in the morning with water at room temperature.

Schefflera can be kept indoors without additional moisture, but will look healthier when high humidity air.

2.12.Purpose

Suitable for landscaping spacious and bright rooms.

2.13.
Note

All above-ground parts of the plant poisonous– be careful when handling schefflera and keep children and pets away from the plant.

This species will grow indoors with proper care within many years.

2.14.Hydroponics

Grows well in hydroponics.

3.Varieties:

3.1.Schefflera "Gerda" - Schefflera arboricola "Gerda"

A beautiful variety of tree-like schefflera with variegated, glossy leaves, colored in the center of the leaf blade in greenish, yellow or White color, and along the edges of the leaves - in a green tint. The plant can reach a height of 2.5 - 3 m, so it needs periodic corrective pruning.

3.2.Schefflera arboricola "Janine"

A low tree-like variegated Schefflera, forming a very lush bush. The leaves are divided into 5 - 7 glossy, oblong-oval, entire-edged segments - fingers, colored in shades of green, white or yellowish. Basic distinctive feature This variety is that many segments have a solid white, greenish or yellow color.

3.3.Schefflera "Nora"

An aerial variety of tree-like shefflera, characterized by its compact size. The leaves are uniform - green, glossy, divided into 5 - 7 very thin, oval fingers. Sometimes on sale you can find plants of this variety with beautifully braided trunks.

3.4. Schefflera "Melanie" - Schefflera "Melanie"

A variegated variant of the tree-like Schefflera, about 50 cm high, with very attractive compound, palmate leaves. The main shade of the leaves is light green or yellowish; standard green may be present only on some fingers or along the edges of the leaf blades in the form of a thin strip.

3.5.Schefflera elegantissima "Bianca"

Schefflera graceful is also called dizygotheca. A valuable ornamental foliage plant with tall, erect, often branched shoots at the base and complex leaves divided into “fingers.” This variety has very long fingers, and the edges of the leaf blades have large teeth. The leaves are dark green with a thin white border along the edges. The central vein is also highlighted in a light shade. Overall, the plant has a delicate, airy appearance.

3.6. Schefflera "Louisiana" - Schefflera "Louisiana"

Variety of tree-like schefflera. The plants are tall - they can reach a height of 70 to 150 cm. The stems are erect, branching abundantly, become woody with age and are covered with light brown bark. The leaves are compound, palmate, green, glossy. The fingers are oblong-lanceolate, thin, giving the entire appearance of the plant an openwork appearance.

3.7. Schefflera actinophylla

In the natural environment, this species often grows as an epiphyte on other trees, although it reaches impressive sizes - up to 12 m in height. It has erect, branched shoots that become woody with age and become covered with smooth greenish-brown bark. The leaves are compound - consist of 7 - 16 fingers, with drooping long, dark green, glossy fingers, reaching a diameter of 60 cm. Often the edges of the leaf blades are slightly corrugated. In nature, this species has the most gorgeous flowering - large inflorescences with many small pinkish flowers are formed at the tops of the shoots.

3.8. Schefflera "Amate" - Schefflera "Amate"

Schefflera variety, tall plant, easily reaching 2 m in height even in room conditions. The leaves are compound, consisting of dark green, glossy, relatively wide fingers. It differs in that even mature plants do not expose the lower part of the trunk, in addition, leaf fall does not occur even in low light conditions.

3.9.Schefflera “Gold Capella” - Schefflera “Gold Capella”

A variegated version of the tree-like schefflera. Evergreens perennials up to 3 m high with dark green palmate leaves. The stems are thick, erect, and become covered with smooth greenish bark with age. Plants with intertwined trunks are often found on sale. Bright varietal feature is the presence of yellow spots of various shapes and sizes on plant leaves.

Schefflera – tropical plant, which rarely blooms at home, but has interestingly shaped leaves. Schefflera got its name thanks to the surname of the famous botanist Scheffler. How to properly care for and propagate sheflera at home, why the “vampire” is kind and brings happiness and prosperity to the house - we’ll look at it in the article.

Types of cheflera

About 200 varieties of the plant are found in the wild. We will focus only on those that are grown indoors.

• Schefflera eight-leaved. The most common plant. It has a bushy form with leaves that look like outstretched fingers. The shape of each leaf is lanceolate, with veins lighter than the leaf itself. The height of the plant is small, up to 50 cm. There are varieties with variegated leaves. If there are several seedlings in one pot, they form a lush spreading cap;
• Schefflera tree-like– has the shape of a small tree, with green or spotted leaves extending from the trunk. It is advisable to have a support for this species that will support and guide the thin trunk;
• sheflera radiata– has, most often, 7 leaves and grows in the form of a small tree. The color of the leaves is predominantly green;
• Sheflera business– the height of the plant in indoor conditions is no more than 40-45 cm, it has an interesting and larger oak leaf shape. The color of the leaves can be either green or spotted.

Planting chefleras

If you bought a plant in a peat-based nutrient substrate, it needs to be replanted in a pot with drainage at the bottom and a palm nutrient substrate. Planting is carried out using the transshipment method. Nutrient soil can be made independently from turf soil and peat, sand, humus, and leaf soil. The ratio of turf soil to the sum of all other parts is 1:1. The soil should be light. After planting, the plant needs to be watered well.

Caring for sheflera at home

The plant is unpretentious and is often placed in office premises (a beautiful and neat tree or bush is in harmony with the work environment). But, nevertheless, it is important to know the basic rules of care and some features of the plant.

Watering

Like any tropical plant, it loves moderate watering as the top layer of soil dries out. In summer, the plant is watered once every 2-4 days, depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment, in winter - once every 10-12 days. Schefflera requires periodic spraying with soft, slightly cool water. You can place the container with the plant in a small tray with water or moistened moss. The plant will absorb the required amount of moisture through the drainage hole and leaves.

Top dressing

The plant needs a complex of vitamins and minerals, which will give it the opportunity to grow and develop. Feeding with any complex fertilizer will help with this. mineral fertilizer for decorative foliage plants. Feeding is carried out through watering or spraying the leaves. In summer 2 times a month, in winter – 1 time.

Trimming

If you want to get a spherical version of the plant, you need to cut off the top at a height of 4-5 internodes with a sharp knife. The plant will gradually acquire the desired shape. To avoid causing harm, pruning is carried out in stages. If you want to grow a neat tree, do the same pruning of side shoots and leaves that stand out too much.

Transfer

If you purchased a young plant, it should be replanted once a year according to the method specified in paragraph 2. An adult plant is replanted every few years using the transshipment method if the soil is depleted and the bush has grown greatly. It is also necessary to replant the shefflera if the roots become visible through the drainage hole. This means the potty is too small for her.

Reproduction of shefleras

You can get new plants in 3 ways:

• cuttings;
• seeds;
• air layering.

The first 2 methods of propagating cheflera are available to beginning flower growers, the third requires some experience, and therefore is not very common.

When forming the crown of a plant or spring pruning, the cuttings are treated with “Kornevin” or crushed coal and planted in small containers with nutritious soil and drainage. The top of the cutting is covered with a bag to create optimal conditions for germination. After rooting, the plants are planted in pots. The survival rate of cuttings is high.

If you propagate sheflera by seeds, they must be soaked in any growth stimulant and placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio, lightly sprinkled with earth. The container is also covered with a bag and removed only for ventilation. At the stage of the second true leaf, the cuttings are planted.

When receiving cuttings, an incision is made at the junction of the leaves with the stem with a sharp knife and the area is wrapped in damp moss. After some time, the appearance of roots is observed. When a good shoot is formed, it is carefully separated from the mother plant and planted. The difficulty with this method is that an incorrect cut can damage the plant.

Sheflera flowering

As mentioned above, shefflera rarely blooms in indoor conditions. This is due to the necessary balance of air humidity and intense lighting, which is difficult to create in an apartment.

If flowering occurs, then the flowers are paniculate inflorescences yellow color from small flowers. Flowering occurs in summer.

Diseases and pests

Schefflera diseases are most often associated with improper care:

• if overwatered, the leaves may turn yellow and fall off;
• if the plant is too dry, it wilts, spots appear on the leaves and they become lethargic;
• Improper watering or contaminated soil can cause aphids and mites to appear.

If the cause of the disease is excess or lack of moisture, it is necessary to normalize watering and place the plant in a lighted place. After some time it will return to its original shape.

If you notice pests on the leaves of a flower or in the soil, you need to treat the shefflera with an insecticide and place it in a bag for several days. If necessary, repeat the treatment. Be sure to isolate the flower from other plants.

Signs

“Good Vampire,” although it refers to plants with poisonous sap, normalizes the energy of the house. It is believed that it absorbs only negative energy, purifying the home in this way.

By placing a plant in the bedroom, you harmonize relationships and normalize energy flow. If the plant withers, which is associated with falling or yellowing of the foliage, the atmosphere in the house is far from positive and harmonious.

If the plant quickly begins to grow, expect an addition to the family.

The magical properties of sheflera

It is no coincidence that sheflera is used as an office plant. In addition to its neat and strict appearance, ease of care, it can attract money, luck, good partners and clients. Based on the state of the flower in the office, you can in some way talk about the state of affairs in the company.

“The Good Vampire” - a sheflera in a home or office not only normalizes the situation, but promotes harmony between spouses and the development of normal relationships in a business environment.

An evergreen shrub, liana or small Schefflera tree of the Araliaceae family, native to tropical countries. There are other names for the crop - umbrella tree, umbrella plant, schefflera, and also shefflera. In the wild, it sometimes grows on other trees as an epiphyte. The upright stems bear glossy, palmate, evergreen leaves.

Schefflera, grown at home.

Schefflera flower is popular due to its small size and unpretentiousness. The optimal growing environment is a warm and evenly moist microclimate with bright, indirect light. Schaeffler fits perfectly into the interior of your home, office or garden.

Lighting

Schaeffler comes from regions with plenty of sunshine. Care indoor plant at home, it involves the creation of dim or indirect lighting. You can protect shefflera on window sills with adjustable blinds or roller blinds. Using safety measures will limit the flower from the influence of extreme heat and direct sunlight, which can cause burns to the foliage and excessively dry out the soil.

High temperature in indoors does not affect schaeffler, as these plants are native to warm temperate and tropical areas. However, extreme changes or exposure to cold drafts can cause a number of illnesses. Sheflera at home best preserves its decorative properties in warm greenhouses or closed loggias.

Watering and humidity

Schaeffler prefers an evenly moist environment. During active growth, the plant should be watered regularly. IN winter period you need to prevent the earthen clod from drying out and moisten the soil as needed.

If there is too much liquid in a flowerpot without drainage, you must urgently take action - drain the remaining water from the pan. If this does not help, you need to change the soil. Otherwise, inaction will lead to many pathogenic diseases and problems with the vegetative growth of the flower. Leaves that turn black and fall off are the first sign of overwatering. Insufficient liquid causes leaf tips to curl.

A long stay indoors with cool temperatures or drafts causes rapid drying of the soil. If the temperature cannot be adjusted for schaeffler, for example, in an office, care must be taken to water more frequently.

Features of transplantation

How to transplant Schefflera? The process of changing soil and container includes:

Transplanting the sheflera into a larger container.

1. A thorough examination of the shefflera to determine the extent of the need to replant the plant. Roots on the surface of the soil are a clear sign that the plant needs a larger pot.
2. You should fill the new container with fresh soil.
3. The houseplant must be carefully removed from flower pot and place in a large container.
4. Carefully add and level the soil around the base of the plant.
5. Water the flower generously.
6. The optimal place to grow shefflera in the house is the south-eastern or south-western side of the building.
7. Feeding should begin no earlier than two weeks after transplantation.

How to trim a flower correctly

To maintain the desired tree-like shape, it is necessary to trim the stems directed closer to the ground. To create a shrub structure, long side branches should be removed. To do this, use sharp scissors to cut each stem above the leaves. To remove the entire stem, you need to make a neat side cut at the base.

Forming the structure of the shefflera using regular pruning.

To thin out the plant or give it the desired size, you can cut off the side shoots on the main stems.

Dead foliage or damaged stems can be removed at any time throughout the year. You should cut out the entire damaged area at the very base of the stem.

It is advisable to prune only healthy plants. Until the condition of the flower improves, you should avoid pruning a weakened or disease-affected crop.

Schefflera outdoors

Care in open ground for sheflera does not differ from the requirements of a plant indoors. The only peculiarity in caring for cheflera on the site is a large number of preventive measures against pests and various diseases.

For good outdoor care, you should clean the leaves from dust and debris, and also water the plant periodically. This way the cheflera will create a denser shape for the branches. The plant can become the main decorative decoration plot, but only for one season as an annual.

The minimum temperature for the plant is +16 degrees. Cold air and the first frost will destroy the flower. Therefore, it is preferable to grow the crop in tubs and take it out into the open in the summer. With the onset of cold weather, you should move the flowerpot to a greenhouse or winter garden.

Schefflera in its natural environment.

Container Growing Basics

Soil for shefflera

For soil, you can choose a ready-made mixture for palm crops or prepare it yourself. Take sand and humus in equal parts. Mix with leaf and turf soil. Drainage must be provided. Available materials include polystyrene foam, crushed stone and sand. You can purchase expanded clay or special filler at garden stores.

How to choose a container

To choose the right flowerpot, you need to inspect the plant. A fairly large Schefflera needs to be planted in a large container. It should be noted that with each subsequent transplant, the pot should be replaced with a container that exceeds the size of the previous pot by at least 5 cm. To maintain the integrity of the root system, you need to use the technique of reloading a dense plant with large branches.

Feeding technique

The plant should be fed with a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly during vegetative growth. You can also choose Alternative option- use half the recommended portion of bioregulators when watering every 2-3 weeks.

A prerequisite for successful fertilizing is moist soil. To normalize plant development, you can spray fertilizer on the foliage. Zircon and Epion are used as sprayers.

Typical problems of shefflers

Bacterial diseases

Pseudomonas aeruginosa leaf spot (caused by Pseudomonas aeruginosa) appears, as a rule, on the edges of the leaves of dwarf schefflera. Initially, small water spots appear. Then they merge, turn black and lead to a sharp fall of the leaf.

Schefflera is affected by a fungal disease.

Black bacterial spot affects the entire leaf surface. Yellowish pinpoint lesions form dotted lines. Then they increase between the veins of the leaf and affect the entire stem. As a rule, they cause complete leaf fall.

Fungal diseases

There are two main fungal diseases of Schefflera. Alternathia fungus causes leaf spot, which appears as large brown or black spots with yellow halos that can spread throughout the foliage in just a few days. Poor quality or contaminated planting material may be rotten. As a result, late blight fungus develops. Leaf spot caused by late blight resembles alternation with one difference - the lower leaves are infected first.

For prevention, broad-spectrum fungicides and bactericides can be used. It should be remembered that the plant is very sensitive to chemical damage. Therefore, you must strictly adhere to the instructions. How to save shefflera from bacterial and fungal infections? The disease spreads very quickly on wet leaf surfaces, so a simple preventative measure is to keep the foliage dry.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are small, soft-bodied insects that feed on plant sap. They are usually white or gray shade, covered with a waxy substance. They attack the leaves, stems, and sometimes the roots of the plant. Male scale insects have wings, females do not.

Small populations of mealybugs can be easily washed off the plant with soap and water. Larger colonies should be controlled with insecticides.

Spider mite

Schefflera is sensitive to mites, tiny arachnids that are almost impossible to notice. These eight-legged pests attack the undersides of leaves, sucking the juice from healthy veins. Early symptoms of damage spider mite include tiny white dots on the undersides of leaves or small yellow-brown blotchy spots. As a result, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off.

Infected plants should be avoided indoors and Schefflera should be treated immediately to prevent spread. With a few applications of insecticidal soap or acaricides on both sides of the plant's leaves, spider mites can be eliminated.

Aphid

Insects can be yellow, bright green, brown or white. They attack the delicate tissues of the plant, including leaves and stems, and suck out the juice. Lead to yellowing of foliage. Inaction causes rapid reproduction of insects, which stops further development of the plant.

Aphids leave characteristic marks on the stems, which are attracted to the soot fungus. Mold turns the entire flower black. An infected crop can be treated with an insecticide.

Negative reactions to Schefflera

Schefflera overgrowth can cause an itchy rash. Some gardeners have reported cases of temporary swelling. The plant is a poisonous representative of the flora and can lead not only to dermatitis, but also to irritation of the mucous membranes.

You should care for the plant carefully using protective equipment - gloves and a respirator. To remove allergic reaction you need to take an antihistamine.

Reproduction

Shefflera can be propagated using seeds, layering and stem cuttings.

Schefflera from cuttings

Stem cuttings taken from healthy plant, will reproduce an exact copy of the culture. Growing a flower from cuttings is quite simple:

1. You must wear protective gloves before touching the plant. Make a side cut 5 to 8 cm below the leaves of the stem. The cut should be made in such a way that two fully formed leaves remain on the branch. It is not recommended to select old stems located at the bottom of the plant.
2. Fill the container with new soil.
3. It is advisable to use warm water to moisten the soil. There is no need to fill the flowerpot with water. It is enough to carry out periodic watering as the top layer of soil dries.
4. Next, you need to make a hole in the pot to accommodate the stem.
5. Pour 1 tablespoon of growth stimulator into a plastic bag and dip the cutting.
6. Place the branch in a pot of moistened soil.
7. Cover the flowerpot with transparent plastic or stick a transparent bag over the entire container. Using plastic you can create a humid miniature greenhouse.
8. Place the planted cuttings in a warm room with bright light. Direct sunlight should be avoided.
9. The flowerpot needs to be ventilated daily. To allow air to circulate, the plastic bag should be opened periodically for one to two hours.
10. If the soil surface becomes dry, use a water spray.
11. After four to six weeks, the development of the root system can be checked. Resistance means the stem has taken root.
12. Once the root system has begun to form, the plastic should be removed.
13. It’s quite easy to continue caring for your new chef. It is enough to water as the soil dries and keep the delicate plant from drafts and direct sunlight.

Propagation by seeds

Seed germination directly depends on storage conditions and duration. Content planting material more than three weeks after collection in a warm room will reduce the likelihood of seedlings forming to 40%.

To stimulate the seeds, you can prepare a mixture of vermiculite, ground limestone and liquid fertilizer. Before planting, seeds should be soaked in warm water for 12 o'clock. The volume of water should be 4 times the volume of all seeds. Heat treatment will reduce germination time by several weeks.

Sow the seeds to a depth of no more than 2 cm. It is necessary to water the soil sufficiently to make the soil moist, but not soggy. Seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight.

How to grow Schefflera with layering

The thick stems of the plant are difficult to root using traditional methods. Therefore, for reproduction it is usually recommended:

Why doesn't Schefflera bloom?

Schefflera does not bloom in indoor conditions. In its natural environment, the crop produces tiny milky and red inflorescences in the summer.

Planting material

It is more profitable to purchase Schefflera in the form of seeds. The average price, for example, for shefflera “Janine” is about 20 rubles. Be sure to pay attention to the date of harvest and packaging of the crop.

Schefflera in bonsai style.

An adult tub of intertwined sheflera (about 160 cm) is valued at 11 thousand rubles.