home Balusters

Toilet in a country house: a review of traditional and innovative technical solutions and recommendations for arrangement. A toilet for a dacha without odor and pumping: recommendations and step-by-step instructions Toilets on the veranda without sewerage

In a country house, summer residents gradually create the most acceptable comfortable conditions. This also applies to the construction of a sewerage system. But such a highway is built when the walls and roof of the house are erected; it is not cheap, and a lot of effort is required. When construction is underway, there is no time or opportunity to make a thorough sewer system; they use ready-made toilets without sewerage, which are optimal for constant use.

Types of toilets without sewerage for a summer cottage

There are several such special designs:

chemical dry toilet;
peat (compost) septic tank;
burning electric toilet;
sanitary container;
bucket toilet.

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each device.

Sanitary container

A sanitary container is a container designed to collect human waste, installed directly under the toilet. Plastic and metal tanks of different shapes and volumes are used as containers. Such a toilet without sewerage in a private house is a cheap device that can be quickly organized.
Of course, it has serious disadvantages:

The device is unsafe from a hygiene point of view.
The foul odor will reach almost to the middle of the area, especially in windy times.
It constantly needs to be emptied manually, which is not so pleasant.
The waste tank must be regularly treated with sanitizing products.
Installation of ventilation is recommended.

Due to these shortcomings, such toilets in a wooden house without sewerage are used by summer residents for a short time.

Bucket toilet

A bucket toilet is a well-known simple toilet design for a country house without a sewer system. It is a plastic bucket with a handle. A seat with a lid is installed on top of it. The height of the bucket is comfortable for use by summer residents. After filling the bucket, the contents are taken to a certain place, poured out, and covered with earth and peat. Its processing into natural fertilizer begins.
The bucket is rinsed with the addition of sanitary and hygienic products and is again ready to perform its function.
Also, as in the previous version, such a toilet cannot be used by residents who want to live permanently. It is for temporary use.

Dry toilet

A dry closet is a modernized autonomous design that provides not only the collection of sewage, but also its cleaning.
A toilet made of plastic in a house without a sewer system looks very compact and convenient and can be easily transported from place to place. Can be placed both indoors and outdoors. The unit itself is small, but it is expected that a family of 4 will be able to use it for two weeks.
The upper tank, into which water flows, is intended for flushing. (For your information, it is possible to supply water to the toilet without drainage from the water supply). Both chemicals and disinfectants are usually added to the top container. At the top there is also a toilet tray with a seat and a lid, and a water pump handle.
At the bottom of the toilet, fecal waste is collected and chemically processed. Specially developed chemicals are introduced through the opening of the lower tank. After defecation, chemicals convert the feces into liquid, removing the unpleasant odor. The resulting mass is, in some cases, completely safe from a hygiene and environmental point of view. It simply pours out through the drainage device. The safety level of a chemical depends on its type.

Peat (compost) toilet

The composting toilet is intended specifically for residents of suburban areas who are concerned that “nothing goes to waste.”
This toilet structure consists of two containers. The lower container, as in previous designs, serves to collect waste. Liquid light fractions are collected separately and sent to the discharge point.
The heavy ones remain and are processed. The top tank contains peat in the form of powder. As soon as feces enter the lower part, a special dispensing device in the toilet sprinkles the waste with peat and its processing begins. When the container is full, the contents are poured into a compost pit, where after some time the fecal waste will turn into fertilizer. Such organic matter can be used in the garden to grow plants.
This is a dry type of toilet. That is, without the use of water. And the output is dry fertilizer powder.
This peat toilet is a good option for a summer house without sewerage. Its best qualities - environmental friendliness and ease of use - are attractive to residents of country houses.
In addition, it is easy to make a peat toilet with your own hands.
How to make a composting toilet without a sewer? It is enough, for example, to place a toilet seat with a bucket in a stationary toilet stall. Place a peat box nearby and designate a place to collect compost. You can build a toilet without sewerage so you can immediately wash your hands stained with peat.
But there are also disadvantages to such equipment:

The device cannot be installed inside the house. Perhaps by equipping the room with ventilation. The smell of peat is strong and difficult to get rid of.
The bottom tank is heavy enough to carry into the compost pit.
It is necessary to equip a urine drainage system.

Burning toilets (electrical systems)

The burning toilet also has the appearance of a plastic box that encloses the toilet. It differs from previous options in that it requires a connection to the electrical network to process waste.
It is also divided into 2 parts. Accordingly, feces are collected in the lower one. There are 2 holes - separately for liquid and heavy fractions. A “knob switch” is provided for separation. After the waste is collected, the contents are thermally treated. The result is ash that is easy to dispose of. This toilet can be used for a long time - about 3 months.
The disadvantage of this method of fecal waste disposal is the relatively high price of the equipment; additional payment for electricity also increases costs.
As you can see, there is a large selection of toilets without sewerage for a summer residence. What main characteristics should you pay attention to when purchasing a product?

Criteria for choosing toilets for a summer cottage

The most significant indicators include the following:

Volume of the lower tank. The larger the volume, the longer you can use the septic tank. You need to calculate based on the fact that a 14-liter tank will be enough for approximately 30 visits.
Weight of the lower part of the equipment. You will have to empty or pour out the contents of the lower tank from time to time. If a 14-liter full tank weighs about 15 kg (and more than 15 for a peat toilet), is it worth buying a toilet with a larger capacity? Will it be possible to freely remove it from the equipment and carry it for emptying?
When choosing the height of a portable toilet, you should consider that not only adults, but also children will use it.
It is also worth paying attention to the quality of the plastic from which the box is made. The better the plastic, the longer you won’t have to think about repairs.

List of chemicals for the toilet

Not all liquids intended for dry toilets are equivalent in terms of safety. For example, let's look at some of them:

Unsafe mixtures based on formaldehyde. It is advisable to drain the toilet waste away from the garden, garden, and housing.
Solutions containing ammonium. They become harmless after 3-7 days after being poured into the toilet tank.
Preparations that are truly completely safe contain active bacteria. The result of their effect on fecal matter can be used as fertilizer for a summer cottage.

The most suitable for a toilet without a sewer in a village house are preparations containing biologically active bacteria.
One of the disadvantages of a dry toilet is that a complex of expensive chemicals is often used as a reagent, which is unsafe for health and expensive.
Otherwise, the disadvantages are the same as with all portable toilets: the small capacity of the lower tank, the need to constantly empty it of its contents.
A chemical dry toilet can be used as a toilet for permanent residents in a country house. It is also indispensable for people with disabilities.
It is worth adding that there are not only portable dry toilets, but also stationary ones. If you wish, you can always install a toilet in your dacha without sewerage - a bio-cabin either on the street or in a separate room.
The modern market offers a wide variety of booth models. For example, Bioecology Eco Light (winter), Eco Light MTK 1 (winter), Economy, Tandem.
They are made of frost-resistant plastic and are designed for mid-range temperatures. They are autonomous structures, independent of communications. They are easy to assemble on the site with your own hands. Caring for the booths involves routine sanitation.

How to organize the operation of septic tanks in winter

If the operation of a dry toilet in the summer does not raise any questions, then what should you do in the country with a toilet without a sewer in the winter?

First of all, you need to monitor the process of emptying the bottom drawer and take it out more often. On cold frosty days and especially at night, the structure should not have a full tank.
For protection, it is necessary to add harmless antifreeze to the water of a biological structure.
If possible, you need to install a warm toilet without sewerage, that is, heated. They can easily tolerate temperatures down to -60 degrees.

The heated dry closet cabin is insulated with a special material, and an electric heating device is built into the tank. The disadvantage of this design is the need for a constant connection to the electrical network. Also, the cabins are quite expensive and not affordable for many.
When leaving sewerage equipment for the winter, care should be taken to preserve it. To do this, active bacteria are placed in an empty tank. If necessary, you can seek help from professionals.

One of the buildings reviewed and selected will provide comfortable living in a country house. You can purchase any of the designs in a specialized store. If a toilet without a sewer is not available in nearby stores, you can consider purchasing it online.

Types of toilets without sewerage for a summer cottage

There are several such special designs:

chemical dry toilet;
peat (compost) septic tank;
burning electric toilet;
sanitary container;
bucket toilet.

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each device.

Sanitary container

The device is unsafe from a hygiene point of view.
The foul odor will reach almost to the middle of the area, especially in windy times.
It constantly needs to be emptied manually, which is not so pleasant.
The waste tank must be regularly treated with sanitizing products.
Installation of ventilation is recommended.

Due to these shortcomings, such toilets in a wooden house without sewerage are used by summer residents for a short time.

Bucket toilet

Dry toilet

A dry closet is a modernized autonomous design that provides not only the collection of sewage, but also its cleaning.
A toilet made of plastic in a house without a sewer system looks very compact and convenient and can be easily transported from place to place. Can be placed both indoors and outdoors. The unit itself is small, but it is expected that a family of 4 will be able to use it for two weeks.
The upper tank, into which water flows, is intended for flushing. (For your information, it is possible to supply water to the toilet without drainage from the water supply). Both chemicals and disinfectants are usually added to the top container. At the top there is also a toilet tray with a seat and a lid, and a water pump handle.
At the bottom of the toilet, fecal waste is collected and chemically processed. Specially developed chemicals are introduced through the opening of the lower tank. After defecation, chemicals convert the feces into liquid, removing the foul odor. The resulting mass is, in some cases, completely safe from a hygiene and environmental point of view. It simply pours out through the drainage device. The safety level of a chemical depends on its type.

Peat (compost) toilet

The device cannot be installed inside the house. Perhaps by equipping the room with ventilation. The smell of peat is strong and difficult to get rid of.
The bottom tank is heavy enough to carry into the compost pit.
It is necessary to equip a urine drainage system.

Burning toilets (electrical systems)

The burning toilet also has the appearance of a plastic box that encloses the toilet. It differs from previous options in that to process waste it requires a connection to the electrical network.
It is also divided into 2 parts. Accordingly, feces are collected in the lower one. There are 2 holes - separately for liquid and heavy fractions. A “knob switch” is provided for separation. After the waste is collected, the contents are thermally treated. The result is ash that is easy to dispose of. This toilet can be used for a long time - about 3 months.
The disadvantage of this method of fecal waste disposal is the relatively high price of the equipment; additional payment for electricity also increases costs.
As you can see, there is a large selection of toilets without sewerage for a summer residence. What main characteristics should you pay attention to when purchasing a product?

Criteria for choosing toilets for a summer cottage

The most significant indicators include the following:

Volume of the lower tank. The larger the volume, the longer you can use the septic tank. You need to calculate based on the fact that a 14-liter tank will be enough for approximately 30 visits.
Weight of the lower part of the equipment. You will have to empty or pour out the contents of the lower tank from time to time. If a 14-liter full tank weighs about 15 kg (and more than 15 for a peat toilet), is it worth buying a toilet with a larger capacity? Will it be possible to freely remove it from the equipment and carry it for emptying?
When choosing the height of a portable toilet, you should consider that not only adults, but also children will use it.
It is also worth paying attention to the quality of the plastic from which the box is made. The better the plastic, the longer you won’t have to think about repairs.

List of chemicals for the toilet

Not all liquids intended for dry toilets are equivalent in terms of safety. For example, let's look at some of them:

Unsafe mixtures based on formaldehyde. It is advisable to drain the toilet waste away from the garden, garden, and housing.
Solutions containing ammonium. They become harmless after 3-7 days after being poured into the toilet tank.
Preparations that are truly completely safe contain active bacteria. The result of their effect on fecal matter can be used as fertilizer for a summer cottage.

The most suitable for a toilet without a sewer in a village house are preparations containing biologically active bacteria.
One of the disadvantages of a dry toilet is that a complex of expensive chemicals is often used as a reagent, which is unsafe for health and expensive.
Otherwise, the disadvantages are the same as with all portable toilets: the small capacity of the lower tank, the need to constantly empty it of its contents.
A chemical dry toilet can be used as a toilet for permanent residents in a country house. It is also indispensable for people with disabilities.
It is worth adding that there are not only portable dry toilets, but also stationary ones. If you wish, you can always install a toilet without sewerage in your dacha - a bio-cabin either on the street or in a separate room.
The modern market offers a wide variety of booth models. For example, Bioecology Eco Light (winter), Eco Light MTK 1 (winter), Economy, Tandem.
They are made of frost-resistant plastic and are designed for mid-range temperatures. They are autonomous structures, independent of communications. They are easy to assemble on the site with your own hands. Caring for the booths involves routine sanitation.

How to organize the operation of septic tanks in winter

If the operation of a dry toilet in the summer does not raise any questions, then what should you do in the country with a toilet without a sewer in the winter?

First of all, you need to monitor the process of emptying the bottom drawer and take it out more often. On cold frosty days and especially at night, the structure should not have a full tank.
For protection, it is necessary to add harmless antifreeze to the water of a biological structure.
If possible, you need to install a warm toilet without sewerage, that is, heated. They can easily tolerate temperatures down to -60 degrees.

One of the buildings reviewed and selected will provide comfortable living in a country house. You can purchase any of the designs in a specialized store. If a toilet without a sewer is not available in nearby stores, you can consider purchasing it online.

Add site to bookmarks

Conclusion: a peat toilet is one of the best compact options for a private country house. All waste can be disposed of as an excellent, environmentally friendly fertilizer.

Combustion (electrical) structures

One of the best devices are incinerators, which allow you to separate waste into liquid and solid.

One of the best devices are incinerators, which allow you to separate waste into liquid and solid. Liquid waste is fed into the sewer system, solid waste is compressed and dried, and then burned with a special device.

Advantages: high quality, fast waste disposal.

Flaws:

the need to install a system such as ventilation;
connection to the electrical network;
high price.

What a toilet should be like: general design rules

Today, a toilet in a private residential building is just an ordinary cesspool on the street with a bucket. This is a complex system that not only has a connection to the sewer network for efficient drainage, but also an exhaust system to remove unpleasant odors. The sewer system itself includes internal and external parts, including a processing or storage septic tank.

To install a toilet in a dacha house, you must follow the following stages of work:

choosing a suitable location for installation. In the house itself, the toilet can be located in any place convenient for this (naturally, in accordance with sanitary and building standards). The sewer outlet pipe must be connected to a waste pipe, which carries all wastewater from the house to the septic tank. Such a pipe should be located with a slope of two centimeters per m; it is recommended to install the septic tank itself approximately 4-5 meters from the residential building. Depending on the design of the septic tank, ventilation may be required;
To do this, it is necessary to dig trenches, at the bottom of which a layer of gravel drainage is laid, only after this can pipes be laid;
For the pit where the septic tank or storage tank will be located, you need to arrange a concrete pad on which the container will rest. There is an option when a very ordinary cesspool is installed, that is, after digging the hole, its bottom and walls are laid out in one brick. In this case, ventilation is required, which is a simple exhaust pipe;
The internal sewer system is arranged exactly as in a regular apartment. For the toilet, a sewer pipe is connected to a common riser; this system serves to introduce wastewater. The installation of the toilet itself depends on what kind of structure the private house will be equipped with.

To ensure comfortable living in a private residential building, it is necessary to install many networks, including sewerage. At the same time, it can be very different, which largely depends on what kind of external sewage system will be built, whether a septic tank or storage tank will be installed and many other nuances. The sewerage system itself includes not only the toilet equipment, but also its connection to the general sewer network and septic tank installations.

Continuation.
A closet in the house was cleared for the “white friend” and pipe laying began.

The trench was dug to a depth of 80 cm. I believe that it will not freeze. It was important to set a slope of 2 cm for every 1 meter of pipe length. For a decrease in slope leads to stagnation of water in the pipe, and an increase, contrary to the opinion that it will run away faster and better, leads to the fact that the liquid fraction is ahead of the solid, the latter remains in the pipe and is not washed away, and, as a result, blockage
To accurately set the slope, stones were placed under the pipe. I read somewhere that this should not be done, as it could cause the pipe to warp. I consider this nonsense, because then sand is poured under the pipe, spilled with water and compacted tightly, as a result of which a fairly dense bed is formed under the pipe. And cars won’t drive through my area...
I checked the slope using a 1 meter long level and a ruler. Thus, with a horizontal position of the bubble, the distance between the pipe and the far end of the level should be exactly 2 cm.
The pipes were connected using a soap solution. I recommend preparing a VERY soapy solution, since inserting the end of one pipe into the socket of another can be very problematic. Lubricate the rubber gasket in the socket and the end of the attached pipe with this solution. When connecting long pipes, he used a wooden block and a hammer, with which he hammered one pipe into another. To control the completeness of the pipes fitting into one another, I recommend marking at the end of the pipe with a pencil the distance to which the pipe needs to be driven in (approximately 5 cm, along the length of the widening of the socket). Pipes for external sewerage are used in orange (red) color with a diameter of 110 mm. The sockets, of course, should be facing the drainage sources (toilet and washbasin).
Another such moment. If you incorrectly connected the adapters, especially short ones, to each other, then you are unlikely to disconnect them later. In any case, it didn’t work out for me, and I ruined a couple of adapters. So be careful and do everything right right away.
In the middle of the pipe I made a “cleaner” in the form of a piece of pipe attached to a tee, and brought it to the surface, closing the hole with a lid. Another such cleaning in the form of a tee is located inside the shed. Just in case... Subsequently, a possible blockage can be eliminated through these cleanings using a special plumbing cable.
Before backfilling the pipes, I tested the system several times. The drain of one tank should be enough to flush out the “solid fraction”. After successful testing, I buried the pipe.
I covered the pipe with sand along its upper edge, laid the previously removed soil on top and compacted it, not being particularly zealous, so as not to break the pipes.

In our article we will talk about how to make a toilet in a private house with your own hands, choose a place, design, install pipes, and install a toilet.

A private country house is, perhaps, the cherished dream of any city dweller, which is why many have dachas, and some manage to allocate the required amount of money to purchase or build a full-fledged cottage. To ensure the most comfortable stay in the house at any time of the year and in any weather, an indoor toilet is necessary. If we are talking about construction from scratch, then in this case latrines are provided at the design stage, but How, in which it has never been, is a serious issue that requires thoughtful solutions.

Construction from scratch - latrine design

In this case, everything is simple, since toilets are provided for in the project and can be placed on each floor of the future house. It is advisable to provide their location in such a way that they have a single sewer riser, which will save time and material resources spent on construction. Everything will depend on the specific project and the layout of the house. It is advisable that toilets and bathrooms do not have common walls with living rooms. Ideally, these could be external walls, partitions with corridors or technical premises. Also, toilets and bathrooms should not be located above living rooms.

How to make a toilet in a private house: finding a suitable place

If you purchased a house in which the toilet was not included in the design (it was moved onto the site, for example), then you need to correctly determine the place in which it will be located. Here you should take into account not only the location relative to living rooms, but also relative to utilities: water supply, sewage system. Before that, consider a drainage system. There are several classic options:

Central sewerage - permissible only where it is provided (if the house is located within the boundaries of a populated area, for example)
Septic tank - a special system for filtration and disposal of waste water
Cesspool - more often used in the country, a less common method, as it requires constant additional maintenance (calls for a vacuum cleaner, for example)

So, the key criteria for choosing a place for a toilet:

It should not be located above the living quarters or have common walls with them - ideally, an open section of the first floor corridor is selected, preferably the corner of two external walls. By adding a small partition and arranging a doorway, you can get an additional small room, which is ideal for arranging a bathroom in it
The shorter the distance from the toilet to the septic tank or drainage pit, the better. This will save money on sewerage installations.
If there is a well or borehole on the site and a water supply system is equipped (a home pumping station is installed), then there are no problems. But if there is no such water supply system, then it is advisable that there is a technical room above the toilet in which a container of water can be installed. It will need to be replenished periodically, which can be done using a conventional garden vibration pump “Rodnichok”. The water pressure in a container, even with a volume of up to one hundred liters, will be quite enough to fill the toilet tank

Communications layout

Sewage is of greatest importance, so before How at the selected location, make sure that the drain pipe has a slope in the direction of the septic tank or drain pit of at least 1.5 - 2 centimeters for every meter of its length. This is necessary so that the water drains by gravity. As a rule, a septic tank is dug into the ground to a depth of half a meter, so there should be no problems with the slope. If we are talking about a cesspool, then the slope can be set according to the building level.

A trench 40-50 centimeters deep is dug from the wall of the house to the cesspool or septic tank, into which the pipe will be laid. If there are five meters from the wall of the house to the septic tank, then the difference between the beginning and end of this section of the pipe should be about 10 centimeters. The pipe is additionally insulated with glass wool, which will prevent water from freezing in it even when the soil freezes strongly and deeply. Additionally, you can use a self-regulating heating cable, which will turn on only in the most severe frosts. Then the depth of the trench can be reduced to 20-30 centimeters.

Working inside a toilet and releasing sewer pipes

In order to make a toilet in a private house with a concrete floor, it will be necessary to open part of the screed. To do this, you can use a hammer drill or a chipper. Depending on the height of the floor relative to the ground level, you need to go 30-40 centimeters deeper. First, we determine the exact future location of the toilet - it is chosen arbitrarily, based on the parameters of the room and sound logic. Then we open a trench the width of the pipe from the place where the pipe will come out of the floor to the place where it will go in the direction of the drainage pit or septic tank. Using a hammer drill, we make a hole in the wall at this level slightly larger than the width of the pipe.

After installing the drain pipe (diameter 100-120) and installing the corner joint, releasing it in the toilet upwards just above floor level, fill the remaining space with concrete and let it set. Do not forget about the slope, so it is better to do the filling after the installation and connection of the entire sewer pipe with the septic tank is completed. The trench in which the pipe was laid is filled with earth. If you use steel pipes, then you do not need to further strengthen them. But the plastic pipe is afraid of soil subsidence, so it is necessary to strengthen it. It is fashionable to use a steel case, but this is not economical.

Another way out is to pre-fill the screed at the bottom of the trench, strengthening it with steel reinforcement. You can also pour small sides under the formwork, slightly higher in height than the thickness of the pipe. The result is a concrete case, which is covered on top with a tarred board or strips of steel 3-4 mm thick. Everything is covered with earth on top and lightly compacted. This way the pipe will be under reliable protection.

If there is a central water supply system, then you just need to run a pipe or flexible hose into the toilet, install a shut-off valve and connect it to the tank. But if there is no such system, then the solution would be to install a 200-liter tank in the technical room above the toilet. In the lower part of this container (plastic is perfect) a small hole is made for mounting a faucet or flexible hose directly. Ideally, you can use a double-sided adapter, one part of which is attached to the barrel in the hole made with two nuts through rubber gaskets, and the second is left free for screwing on the hose.

The second part of the hose is connected to the tank. You can replenish the container using a conventional vibration pump “Springhead”, and the frequency of replenishment will depend on the intensity of use of the toilet. On average, one drain, depending on the type of barrel, takes about seven to eight liters of water. That is, a 200 liter container is enough for about 25 flushes.

Toilet installation

Toilets come in different types of mounting. Let's consider the classic version of a floor-standing toilet, which allows make a toilet in a private house easier and faster. Its installation is carried out on four to six anchors, which are driven into a concrete screed. The transition between the toilet itself and the sewer pipe is provided by a flexible plastic corrugated adapter for a pipe diameter of 100-120 millimeters, fixed with rubber gaskets and seals. If you want to use a wall-mounted toilet, you will either have to install an additional partition inside the toilet itself, or reconsider the method of draining the sewer pipe. The first option is preferable, since the space behind the additional partition can be used to store household chemicals and other accessories.

Ventilation system

If a general ventilation system is not provided, then the problem is solved by installing a simple exhaust fan connected to the light switch in the toilet. An aluminum corrugated exhaust flexible duct of the appropriate diameter is connected to it, the second end of which is led out to the street. At the second end, which is taken outside the room, a special tip with a check valve is installed, which will not allow the wind to blow around the room and bring cold air into it in winter.

Finishing the toilet of a private house

To make a toilet for a private house aesthetically attractive, it is necessary to decorate it. There are almost no restrictions here, with the exception of materials. Since the level of humidity in the toilet is in any case slightly increased, and it also belongs to sanitary premises, it is customary to finish it with tiles - ceramic tiles 103583

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Many private houses built in Soviet times did not provide for the installation of a warm toilet, but only had a separate facility, which was extremely inconvenient to get to in the cold or rain. Therefore, it is necessary to resolve this situation and install a warm toilet with sewerage in a village house on your own.

Choosing a place for the toilet

In order to put a minimum of effort into equipping a toilet, you need to find a ready-made room that meets construction standards. This should be a small room with an area of at least 3 m2 to accommodate the toilet and all the necessary accessories. The ideal option would be to place it near one of the external walls, which will ensure a minimum distance to the cesspool or local sewerage system. If such a room is located inside the house and does not border on an external wall, then connecting the toilet to the sewer will be somewhat more complicated due to the laying of pipes in the basement.

Wooden toilet and shower with sewage system

Another option would be to equip a toilet inside the living space with the installation of partitions and the supply of all communications. The advantage in this case will be the creation of sufficient space and its location in any convenient place. However, this will result in the loss of living space and the implementation of the project will be very difficult.

The main requirements that need to be followed when choosing a place for a toilet are as follows:

Minimum distance to the point of sewage discharge or to the local sewer system.
The room should not be located near eating or sleeping areas.
It will be possible to freely introduce cold water pipes into the toilet, install sewerage and install ventilation.

If sewerage and water supply are introduced into the house, then you can immediately place a bathroom and a bathtub in one room near the entry point. This will save on installation work and building materials.

Basic nuances of connecting to the sewer system

The installation of sewerage to the toilet is qualitatively divided into two stages: external and internal. External consists of laying sewer pipes to local, centralized or storage systems. Internal involves the installation of pipes and plumbing.

construction of a warm free-standing toilet with sewerage

External pipe laying must be carried out taking into account the following factors:

Soil freezing depth. It has a strong influence on the operation of the sewerage system and therefore must be strictly taken into account. For central Russia it ranges from 0.8 m. Additionally, protection against more severe frosts should be provided and the pipes should be insulated.
The distance to local treatment facilities should, on the one hand, be minimal, and on the other hand, comply with sanitary and construction standards. The minimum distance is 15 m, and the pipe slope per linear meter is at least 30.
The choice of pipe type depends on the heaving and density of the soil. In places of high soil mobility, it is necessary to use cast iron pipes, while in other cases plastic pipes are recommended.

When creating internal communications, the main problem will be choosing how to install the toilet. This is due to the fact that it will require a rigid and durable base, which is absent in most village houses, and installation on wooden floors is impractical for the reason that heated floors cannot be laid on them. Therefore, it will most likely be necessary to pour concrete floors with all the associated costs and labor costs.

Pouring toilet floors

Before carrying out installation work, the room must be completely emptied and cleaned of dirt. This will allow you to accurately assess the condition of the walls and ceilings. If there are any defects, they will need to be eliminated.

installation of a sewage system in the toilet

If there are wooden floors, they will need to be dismantled. Then, along the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to dig a pit to a depth of 40-50 cm, leveling the bottom and carefully compacting it. It is important not to damage the main foundation. After this, you need to cover the bottom with a layer of sand 30 cm thick and compact it thoroughly or spill it with plenty of water. A layer of crushed stone with a grain size of up to 10 mm is poured on top of the sand, leveled and compacted.

The next step is to lead the sewer pipe outside the building through the foundation. This will require the use of a diamond drilling rig to prevent the foundation from losing its load-bearing capacity due to cracking or partial failure. The hole diameter must be at least 100 mm. The depth of exit of the outer part of the pipe from the outside must be below the freezing level. Inside the room, the height of the pipe should be 15-20 cm above the floor level. To prevent foreign objects from getting inside the pipe, it must be closed on both sides with a tight plug.

Then, overlapping waterproofing material is laid at the bottom of the trench, carefully sealing the joints. After this, a reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 4-6 mm and a cell size of more than 5x5 cm is laid. A concrete solution of grade M300 is poured on top of it. To remove air bubbles, you will need to thoroughly stir it. The surface must be smoothed thoroughly. Before the solution hardens, measure the places for attaching the toilet and insert vertically steel pins with threads cut on top into them.

After this, an electric underfloor heating system is installed on the prepared surface, taking into account all the manufacturer’s recommendations. If the house has a heating water circuit, then you can connect a water circuit instead of an electrical system, but heating of the toilet will be noticeably slower, and the height of the floors due to the laying of pipes will be higher by about 5-10 cm, depending on the installation technology and the diameter used pipes

A screed is made on top of the heated floors and tiles are laid.

Insulation of walls and ceilings

Walls prepared for repairs must be marked for installation of sheathing for plasterboard sheets. The distance between the nearest slats is selected so that it ranges from 1 to 1.5 m and the sheathing is located evenly along the walls. It is advisable to use special metal profile slats. They are placed in a strictly vertical position close to the wall and secured with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15-20 cm. Then the entire surface of the walls is laid with an overlapping waterproofing film at intervals of 15 cm and glued with a special adhesive tape or tape. Mineral wool is placed tightly inside the spaces between the batten slats. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the mineral wool layer in the same way as a waterproofing layer. If the walls are thin, then you need to additionally lay soundproofing material. Then install sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of at least 12 mm end-to-end, coating the joints with putty and leveling the surface. The ceiling is insulated in the same way, only thinner sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of up to 8 mm are used.

connecting a separate toilet to the general communications system of a private house

After this, the inner surface of the walls and ceiling is plastered and then tiled or finished with waterproof plaster.

Toilet installation

The installation of a toilet in a wooden house is carried out directly on steel pins pre-installed in the floor at the time the concrete floor is poured. To do this, it is necessary to lay a dense cork or rubber gasket at the installation site to ensure tight contact of the heel of the toilet with the floor surface. Then take the toilet bowl, place it on top of the gasket and tighten the bolts. The main thing is to maintain the same pressure on the nuts to prevent distortion and damage to the heel. Therefore, the nuts must be tightened one at a time when tightening approximately half a turn. The moment when the toilet becomes completely stable and motionless indicates its correct installation. Then the drain tank is mounted on special fasteners on the surface of the bowl.

The toilet is connected to the sewer pipe using a corrugated flexible hose with rubber seals. The outer part of the connecting joints must be coated with silicone-based sealant. After this, the toilet tank can be connected to a pipe with cold water, which should be pulled from the nearest point.

Laying external sewer pipes

A toilet in a wooden house with a sewer system involves connecting the toilet to already installed internal communications and will not require external work. Otherwise, it will be necessary to carry out excavation work and, possibly, install local treatment facilities or connect to a centralized system.

construction of a separate wooden house for the bathroom

The trench is dug in accordance with the layout of the external sewer system, which was thought out at the planning stage. Its depth should be at least 0.8 m, and the bottom should have a slope towards the wastewater drainage at an angle of 30 per linear meter.

A sand cushion 30 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the trench and carefully leveled and compacted. Then, from the pipe removed from the house, a sewer system is laid directly to a local or centralized sewage discharge point. For installation, it is advisable to install metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm and, if possible, as long as possible in order to minimize the number of joints and reduce the likelihood of leaks.

When all pipe communications are connected, it is necessary to check the functionality of the toilet. To do this, open the water supply to the tank, watch the degree of its filling and, if necessary, immediately adjust. Turn on the underfloor heating system and set the required heating level. Then the water is drained from the tank and all pipe joints and connections to the toilet are inspected. If any deficiencies are found, they are immediately eliminated. External communications are examined similarly. If there are no leaks, insulation is installed on top of the external sewer pipes, and then the trench is buried.

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In private houses built in the Soviet era, the amenities familiar to modern people are missing: at best, the housing has a cold water supply and a sewerage system for discharging liquid waste. There are usually no toilets with toilets there, as well as many other things. It is not difficult to install plumbing, but, unfortunately, in such buildings the project did not provide for either a bathroom or a bathroom, as well as the corresponding utilities.

Therefore, solving the problem of how to make a toilet in a private house of an old building can be quite problematic. It will be necessary not only to find a suitable place, but also to connect sewerage and water to it and provide ventilation in the bathroom. As a rule, for ventilation you can install a hood in the toilet in a private house, and this will be enough.

Choosing a toilet location in a private house

The ideal place for arranging a future toilet is considered to be a ready-made room similar to a small storage room. It is advisable that it be located closer to the drain well.

When the location of the toilet is on the other side, the amount of work required increases, and accordingly the costs. As an option, you can consider arranging a combined bathroom in a small room, installing plumbing fixtures in it that will fit: a bathtub, a toilet, a washbasin, a shower stall, etc.

Things are much more complicated when there is no suitable premises. Then to install the toilet you should find a free corner. There is nothing wrong with the fact that such a place can only be in the kitchen. In this case, a homemade toilet is fenced off with a solid partition, and the entrance is made by cutting through it from the adjacent room, so unpleasant odors will not interfere. In this case, you can use materials such as chipboard, lining, drywall, etc. Read also: "".

Soundproofing material is placed between the layers of cladding, and then the use of the bathroom will not disturb the residents. The partition should be built after the installation of utilities has been completed, since plumbing work is difficult to carry out in a confined space.

Sewerage installation in a private house

Depending on the type of transportation of sewage and waste, sewerage can be:

pressure (forced);
non-pressure (gravity flow).

The pressure structure uses a fecal pump to move waste. As for gravity drainage, it occurs due to the slope of the pipes (more details: ""). If you have not yet decided how to make a toilet in a private house, you can use any option depending on the circumstances.

Gravity sewer system

The effective operation of such a structure can be ensured if the slope parameters are strictly observed - it must be constant and uniform throughout the entire length of the pipe. Most often, when installing a bathroom in a private house with your own hands, they allow you to create a slope that is too steep. The fact is that the very fast movement of drains does not allow them to fill the pipe completely and for this reason the inner surface is poorly washed.

In the case when the slope is less than permissible, the speed of the flow slows down and this point is a big drawback (read: ""). It is necessary to ensure such a ratio between the filling of the pipe and the speed of sewage movement so that self-cleaning occurs during its operation. Otherwise, a coating will appear on the inner surface of the pipeline, preventing drainage and contributing to the formation of blockages.

The use of this device leads to the fact that waste waste can move from bottom to top, despite the fact that the cross-section of the pipes is reduced significantly. Fecal pumps designed for domestic needs are distinguished by their compact size, aesthetic appearance, and the ability to pump liquid several meters in the vertical direction and tens of meters horizontally. Toilets with a built-in pump are available for sale.

Construction device

For laying sewerage in a house, polypropylene pipes are a good choice, which are durable, lightweight and able to withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees without deformation. The last advantage will come in handy when a washing machine is connected to this area or someone pours boiling water into the toilet.

Plastic sewerage is easy to assemble, as if it were a children's construction set. Installation begins from the lowest point, for which the next element is inserted into the socket of the previous part, but before that, sealant for plastic pipes, which is intended for such work, is applied to the end of the fitting or pipe.

This is necessary both to prevent leaks and to facilitate installation work. The fact is that with such a diameter of pipes, joining is not easy - it requires considerable effort. When the ends of the element are lubricated, the work happens much faster. When installing sewerage, you should avoid using right-angle bends, and a 90° turn can be performed using two 45° bends and thereby reduce the inhibition of fluid flows.

If you need to shorten a long section of pipe, use a hacksaw. To secure the structure, use clamps on studs or clips (the latter products look more presentable).

Before each turn, at the bottom of the risers and at the point where the sewer exits outside the house, inspections should be installed. If there is a need to combine a new plastic pipe with an old cast iron product, the connection is sealed using a special rubber cuff.

If there is a basement or room under the toilet for which the interior is important, then a horizontal section of the pipe can be placed in them under the surface of the ceiling.

This solution has obvious advantages:

there is no need to go around corners, since the pipes will be laid along the shortest route, and this will save materials and time, and therefore money;
sewer pipes will not take up space at the bottom of the room.

The elements that make up the pressure sewer are connected together by welding or using flanges. Depending on the characteristics of the fecal pump, the diameter of the pipes can vary between 20-40 millimeters. Laying can be done both from the outside and under the floor or in a wall groove.

How to make a sewer outside

The design of the toilet involves laying the outer part of the sewer in a trench, the depth of which depends on the climate in the region. In this case, different pipes are used - from asbestos, cement, cast iron, plastic and ceramics. The most popular are plastic products.

External non-pressure sewerage is equipped with a constant slope in the direction of drainage equal to 2%. To accomplish this, a sand cushion about 20 centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom of the trench.

Toilet installation

Usually, in our own homes, the floors are made of wood, so before making a toilet in a private house, they should be leveled, strengthened and laid with linoleum. If the neck of the pipe is located above the toilet outlet, it needs to be raised. The podium can be made from a wide board or pieces of timber. If the installation is planned on a concrete floor (for example, on the basement), then brick and cement will be required.
Most often, the connection to the sewer can be made directly: a cuff with an O-ring is inserted into the pipe, and the toilet outlet is inserted into it. In cases where this is not possible, use a plastic eccentric or corrugated cuff.
Connecting to a fecal pump will not cause difficulties, since the inlet on it is located at a standard height, and everything that is necessary for docking is available.
After the toilet is installed in the place intended for it, and after making sure that it is securely connected to the sewer pipe, the holes are marked. Then the plumbing is moved aside and the floor is drilled. A set of fasteners is usually included with the toilet. It consists of self-tapping screws, plastic dowels, washers and decorative caps.
The toilet is returned to the place prepared for it and checked how level it is using a building level. If necessary, level the base by placing a solid object. After completion of the work, the resulting gap is filled with cement.
The plumbing fixture is secured with self-tapping screws, placing soft washers under the caps.

The junction with the pipe and cuff should be syringed using silicone sealant. Do the same with the base of the toilet so that water does not flow under its bottom. Now all that remains is to connect the water to the drain tank. As a rule, a coaxial hose is used for connection, placing a tap in front of it.

As a result, a well-appointed bathroom will certainly improve the quality of life of the household.

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The odorless and pumping toilet for a summer cottage is an ergonomic design that is installed in areas where there is no sewerage system. Almost every homeowner dreams of such a design, since systematically cleaning out a cesspool is an unpleasant process. The presence of this ditch is accompanied by some difficulties. Modern technologies make it possible to purchase the latest systems that do not require pumping. A country closet is either an indoor latrine or a free-standing outbuilding.

The creation of a high-quality treatment facility will make it possible to create a closet that does not require frequent pumping

The procedure for pumping out the container is expensive and is also accompanied by foul odors.

The presence of this reservoir is accompanied by certain difficulties:

there is an unpleasant odor at a distance of several meters from the pit;
costs for constant pumping of the tank;
failure of tightness leads to contaminated water entering the ground;
A well with drinking water cannot be installed next to such a reservoir.

There are several ways to solve this problem.

Toilet for a summer residence without odor and pumping: popular varieties

There are several types of toilets for summer cottages without odor and pumping. These are dry closets, peat and chemical structures, as well as septic tanks and powder closets.

The structures that are installed instead of the sewer system have the following advantages:

no installation of pipeline or drainage system required;
it is possible to install a toilet indoors;
cheap consumables;
there is no need for cesspools;
you can get high-quality and healthy compost.

The most popular options include composting toilets, modern wastewater treatment structures, and overflow treatment facilities. The choice of technology for processing contaminated water depends on budget capabilities, time of residence in the building and the number of residents.

Peat dry toilet for a summer residence: design nuances

With the help of a peat dry toilet for a summer residence, you can remove sewage without the use of water. This design is one of the simplest and most inexpensive options. After some processing of waste, you can get good fertilizer.

For high-quality operation of such equipment, peat is required, which is sold in the store. The composition is poured into the upper compartment of the toilet. In the lower part, peat is poured to a thickness of 15 mm. After visiting the closet, you should press the handle so that the solution from the main part gets into the lower part.

Dry toilets need to be cleaned once a month. The properties of peat contribute to the processing of 10 liters of liquid using 1 kg of composition.

When installing such a device, it is worth considering the following features:

Important information! If more than four people use the toilet, then it is worth considering forced ventilation.

Related article:

Modern treatment plants

The newest cleaning devices are septic tanks, which are equipped with a large number of treatment levels. The following technology options can be used:

Ultrafiltration filters clean water so thoroughly that the liquid can be reused. No chemicals are used;

reagent ion exchange units make cleaning very fast and soften the water;

electrochemical cleaning helps to lower metal suspensions;

The newest cleaning method is membrane reverse osmosis. In this case, distilled water can be obtained from contaminated liquid compositions. The wastewater passes through a special membrane through which only water particles can pass. This element retains unnecessary impurities.

Overflow concrete and plastic septic tanks

Local septic devices will help to equip a closet without sewerage. Septic tank- This is equipment for accumulating and cleaning wastewater that enters the tank.

The contaminated liquid passes through pipes into a barrel divided into three parts. In the first compartment, the mixtures are settled and divided into separate solutions. In the second part, the liquid is purified using bacterial flora. In the last container, the liquid settles.

Helpful information! Filtering fields cannot be installed in every area. They can be replaced by installations with biological filters, which provide deep cleaning.

How to choose a septic tank for your dacha: advantages and useful properties

Before constructing an autonomous sewer system, it is worth deciding. Special recommendations will help you choose the best device:

Before installation, it is worth conducting an examination to determine the depth of groundwater passage. This determines whether filtration fields can be made or whether a deep cleaning system will be required;
you need to correctly calculate the appropriate tank volume;
The choice of a septic tank is influenced by the planned time of residence in a country house. Some models do not tolerate downtime during cold periods.

What determines the performance of a structure?

Septic tanks can have different numbers of chambers. This depends on the volume of liquid processed per day.

If the volume does not exceed 1 cubic meter, then you can use a single-chamber design. If the expected volume is from 1 to 10, then septic tanks with two chambers are used. Three-chamber ones are used when more than 10 cubic meters need to be processed.

When choosing septic tanks, soil type matters. If the soil contains a large amount of clay, then water will not flow well. If there is a close passage of groundwater, you will also need to abandon standard septic tanks.

Helpful information! Downtime should not be allowed when using septic tanks. Since this can lead to the death of bacteria and loss of the beneficial properties of the filter.

How to make a plastic cleaning structure with your own hands?

Plastic cleaning equipment will allow you to create high-quality. Photos of similar structures can be viewed on the website. Installation of plastic structures consists of the following steps:

a convenient location is selected and the dimensions of such a structure are calculated;
a trench is dug;
if necessary, a place is planned for installing filtration fields;
The container is being assembled;
the tank and lines are fixed in the trench;
the placement of the pipeline system is regulated;
The stability of the structure is tested.

The distance to the treatment structure must be at least five meters. Since the liquid, after passing through the treatment barriers, can penetrate under the foundation.

Helpful information! To accurately determine the parameters of the trench, you should take into account the dimensions of the tank, the height of the base and the size of the top layer. Before frost, it is worth building thermal insulation for the roof of the structure.

Do-it-yourself country toilet without a cesspool: a structure made of concrete rings

You can create a treatment structure from ordinary concrete rings. In this case, you must complete the following steps:

you need to purchase three hatches and nine rings;
Three pits are dug in a row;
two trenches should be supplemented with concrete pads;
The rings are installed using construction equipment.

After installation, the space between the elements is filled with glass composition and covered with earth.

Helpful information! The pipe that is supplied to the first tank is laid with a certain slope. The next line should be placed 202 mm lower, and the third goes even lower.

How to make a toilet for a summer house: photos and installation steps

Before you make a toilet for your dacha without odor and pumping, you need to choose the optimal type of design. Peat installations and dry closets do not require assembly, as they are sold ready-made.

To install a toilet, you need to perform certain steps:

choosing a location for the toilet;
the house is assembled using bars, boards, metal corners and slate;

a device with a waste processing system is installed;
a ventilation structure is installed.

Helpful advice! When using the toilet, you should use antiseptics, dietary supplements and natural or chemical air fresheners. Vinegar, salt and soda can be used to eliminate odors.

Any of the described designs that do not require pumping allows you to create comfortable conditions. At the same time, there is no need to constantly clean the pit and deal with unpleasant odors.