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Installing plastic windows yourself. PVC window installation technology. Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows yourself

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Plastic windows are very popular. They protect the room well from cold and wind, and retain heat well inside the room. It is important to know how double-glazed windows are installed, because its correctness determines whether the window will function as planned. If a glass unit is damaged, it is quite possible to replace it yourself.

What do you need to prepare before installation?

Preparatory work plays an important role: without it, it will not be possible to install according to all the rules, which can lead to a violation of the window’s tightness.

If you have an old window installed and you want to replace it with a new product, you will need to start by dismantling it, then you will need to clear the opening of debris and level it if necessary. If you want to replace only a double-glazed window, it will be enough to carefully remove the damaged one from the frame: it is secured with special glazing beads. Leftovers broken glass must be carefully removed. Wear gloves when working, as the edges may be sharp.

Before installation, it is necessary to take correct measurements to determine whether there is any horizontal or vertical displacement

Which design should you choose?

Installation begins not with installation, but with measurements. They must be accurate, otherwise new design will not fit in size. If you are afraid of taking measurements incorrectly, invite a measurer. It’s good if it comes from the same company that will manufacture the double-glazed windows for you.

It is better to give preference to proven manufacturers whose product quality has proven itself well in the market.

The configuration is selected based on the number of sashes of the future window and the method of fastening. This determines how the glass unit will be attached. Usually there are two methods:

Fastening through the frame in the same mounting plane.
Using support reinforcement. Such fittings are already present in the frame and are placed there by the manufacturer.

Most often, the first method is used during installation, since it is easier to do it yourself, the weight of the structure is reduced, and installation takes less time. If the sashes are solid, you will need to remove the internal double-glazed windows. In the case of fittings, the scheme itself is a little more complicated, however, despite this, you do not risk damaging the double-glazed window during installation, accidentally damaging the frame or breaking the glass. You can install double-glazed windows hermetically, which is not always possible when self-installation the first way.

If the window is under warranty, you should not change the glass unit yourself: this will deprive you of warranty service. If the glass is damaged, contact the installation company.

How the window works

How is a double-glazed window installed?

The work takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare the place: clean it, move the furniture away from it so as not to interfere with work; if the opening is uneven or there is debris, it needs to be cleaned and leveled using cement mortar.

Removing the old window

Preparation of the opening

After this, you can move on to preparing yourself. To do this you will need to remove the flaps. U Installation of a double-glazed window into the frame should not be carried out by weight; for installation, you will need to remove the glazing beads, for which you can use a chisel and a hammer. The work should be done carefully so as not to accidentally break the glass.

The beads need to be placed in the same place where they were previously, so it is better to number them right away.

The lower and side elements should be pulled out first, the top one last. The glazing bead should fit tightly, but not tightly; if it does not fit into place, try another one: you probably have the elements mixed up. If the sequence is violated, the double-glazed window will not hold firmly, small gaps will form, violating the tightness of the window. There is no need to remove the frame to install the glass unit.

Installing the frame in the opening

After the first steps have been completed, you can proceed to the direct installation of the double-glazed window. Even with minimal experience, you will spend a little time on these actions. The installation is carried out as follows:

In order for the installation of the frame to be smooth, special bars made of wood or plastic are placed at the bottom of the window. Most often, these items are sold in the same place where they are sold. plastic windows. The upper edges of the substrates must be horizontal; this can be checked using a building level of the appropriate length or using a laser level for this purpose. If the line is skewed, the window will also skew and it will not be able to function properly.
After this, the structure is secured using anchor bolts or polyurethane foam. There is no need to rush to pull out the bars: this should be done two weeks after the window is fixed.
To prevent the frame from bending, pegs should also be installed on the sides or in the center. They will hold the structure in an upright position.
Check whether the glass unit is horizontal or not using a building level. If it is not level, you need to add pegs to level the structure to the desired plane. In order to find out whether the window is vertical, use a plumb line.

Installation of double-glazed windows

It is more convenient to fasten the frame from below, on both sides of the corners. After this, you can move on to other attachment points. If fastening occurs using anchor bolts, they should be tightened to the end only when the structure is perfectly level. Otherwise, there is a high risk of its deformation.

Some structures are attached using the included metal ears: they already have holes for anchor bolts. Make sure that the hole drilled in the wall coincides with the hole on the eyelet, and that the metal element itself fits against the wall as tightly as possible: this will eliminate unnecessary gaps.
After this, a window sash is installed, into which a double-glazed window has already been inserted, and the cracks are sealed.

Knowing how to install double-glazed windows, you can save a lot if you need to replace the glass and do the work yourself. This does not require any construction skills or the purchase of expensive tools.

When taking measurements, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.

In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.

In the second, measure the horizontal distance between the quarters at the narrowest point, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.

We carry out the necessary calculations

In order to place an order without a quarter, you need to not only measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also calculate it optimal size in the following way.

To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to obtain the required height, and 30 mm from the horizontal distance to calculate the width.

These gaps allow for a 15mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35mm underneath.

To the measurements of the window sill and ebb, another 50 mm is added to allow for insertion into the wall.

As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the glass unit, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.

Preparation of tools, materials and components You will need a standard set of tools home handyman

: screwdriver, level, hammer drill, set of hexagons, jigsaw, knife, pencil and tape measure.

The materials you need to purchase are: polyurethane foam, silicone, putty, screws or dowels, etc.

Removing the old window

And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profiles, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc. In the case of blind window frames, first the glazing beads and the glass they hold are pulled out.
In the case of unlocking sashes, they are simply removed from their hinges along with the glazing. In the case where the structures are many years old, and the frames in them are loose and “walk” diagonally, in order to avoid unnecessary problems and for safety, it is advisable to remove the glazing from them in advance. Next, in order to pull out the frame itself, using a regular hacksaw, it is sawed through in several places.
In some cases, this work is done using a grinder with a circle on concrete.
Having divided the frame into several parts with the help of a crowbar, a chisel, a crowbar and a hammer, they are separated from the window opening, to which they have “grown” during operation. In some cases, when a frame made of high-quality wood is well preserved, it can be left alone. But ideally, it should be dismantled so that the new glazing can be attached directly to the wall. Using the same technology, used windowsills are removed, especially if they are made of wood. In the case of a concrete structure, it is crushed with a jackhammer; in the absence of one, you can get by with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. Again, if it is in good condition and there are no objective reasons to destroy it, this can be avoided. However, in this case, two things should be taken into account: firstly, plastic construction is always warmer than concrete, so if there is a lack of heat, it is better to install it, and secondly,
After dismantling the intermediate elements, the wall load-bearing surfaces of the opening are inspected, cleared of debris and, if necessary, repaired.

Preparing a new window

If a new window has opening sashes, it must be securely locked before installation so that it cannot accidentally open while manipulating it. It must be closed during foaming, sealing the cracks and fixing it in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by the foam expanding during the hardening process.

Before opening its doors, it is necessary to allow all fixing and insulating mixtures to dry completely.– at least 12 hours after completion of work.

Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its surface immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.

This is not true, because this protection is needed most of all in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing works involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.

Window installation

This operation begins by drawing markings on its frame for future fastenings, which are installed on all four sides of the frame at intervals of 700 mm.
For light single structures, large intervals are allowed, not exceeding one meter. The extreme fastener is mounted with an indentation from its corner in the region of 50-150 mm. In terms of fastenings, the exception is double-glazed windows with a stand profile; they do not require fixing elements from below.
Fasteners are installed on the frame according to the markings. They are connected to it so that the self-tapping screw passes through the metal located in the frame itself, the so-called bent metal channel. This operation is not done by eye or approximately, but I apply a window frame already equipped with clamps to the installation site, and exactly along the perimeter of the fasteners a recess with a depth of 20 to 40 mm is knocked out, its “imprint” on the surface of the opening directly, but the load-bearing material, be it stone or brick. The fixing elements will be immersed in these recesses flush with the opening.
The window is leveled in the opening, placing wooden chips under the frame where necessary. Such wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse elements of the frame: under the horizontal planks at their intersection with the vertical ones and vice versa. Wedge installation procedure: two bottom and one top to adjust the bottom edge and horizon at the top. Next, two at the top to fix the frame up and down. And then all the remaining wedges from left to right, and of course on both the bottom and top sides of the frame. If there is an impost, it is also wedged in such a way that all vertical planks are strictly parallel to each other. Aligning the wedges takes up the lion's share of the time of the entire installation process. But this is exactly what the correct positioning of the frame in the window opening will depend on, both in the vertical and horizontal planes.
Fix the glass unit in the opening. Once the position of the window is adjusted as perfectly as possible, it can be secured. To do this, use either dowels or anchors. The second option is, of course, more expensive, but also more reliable. In principle, a dowel installed in concrete can support a weight of up to 60 kg, which is more than enough for a window. Dowels for fixing in concrete, hollow brick, shell rock or foam concrete are used with a cross-section from 6 to 8 mm and a length from 75 to 80 mm.
Finally, the gaps between the window opening and the frame installed in it are foamed so that there is not even the slightest void left between them. Foaming technology in the case of crevices larger than 20 mm involves carrying out this operation in several stages, with several layers of foam and breaks of 1-2 hours for each layer to dry. In this case, it will be possible to minimize the deformation of the foam during its expansion, and reduce its useless waste, since the protruding edges would still need to be cut off. In the case when work is carried out at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius

As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut during the installation process to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.

Next, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously aligning it strictly to the level, using the same technology as the window system itself. It is advisable to place the plugs on the window sill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to attach them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.

Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly level, so that a glass full of water can be placed on it without spilling it. It should not sag or bend in any place, even with strong hand pressure.

In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight slope, less than 3 degrees, towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensation that appears on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.

After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and while it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.

After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation a gap forms between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to turn black with mold over time, which will undoubtedly ruin the appearance of a snow-white window.

Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence at the installation stage. This is done very simply - Z-shaped plates made of galvanized sheet are screwed to the plastic profile before it is fixed. In addition, such additional details make it easier to position the window sill.

Installation of slopes and platbands

Along the inner perimeter of the window, screws 95 mm long are mounted wooden slats. Using a square and a level, the position is also controlled.
The U-shaped starting profile is installed on the so-called bugs - very small self-tapping screws screwed directly into the frame. It is into this profile that the slopes will be inserted, so when installing it, special care is required in the operation of connecting its outer edges.
Using a stapler, the F-shaped profile is fastened. The groove of this profile corresponds to the groove of the previous one, and it is on them that the slopes will be held.
When the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profiles, the slopes themselves are inserted into them.
At the final stage, platbands are installed sequentially on the plastic slopes: one upper and two side. To join each other, their edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Adjusting fittings

The position of the valves is adjusted using hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, a screwdriver or a miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve a position for the window sashes that would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.

It is also not considered normal for a slightly open sash to close on its own or, conversely, for a closed one to open.

They must remain in a constant position. Often, during the process of opening or closing, excessive friction with the locking hardware occurs, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that secures the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.

Installation of ebb tides

Usually ebb tides are attached to complete all installation work. It is better to mount them right under the window, so as to prevent water from leaking into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame using small metal screws with a cross-section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.

Let's calculate the costs.
Time and money spent on self-installation.

The technology for installing a window with your own hands involves two operations: dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to approximately 30-90 minutes to remove the old glazing from the opening and about 2 hours to install a new double-glazed window of medium size, that is, up to 2x2 meters.

Thus, to replace the glazing in one window opening you will need to spend from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, which is quite a bit.

After all, with such a pace of work, even in one day off you can independently change the glazing in several openings.

Often, when ordering from a company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.

Is it worth installing windows yourself?

In installation plastic profiles there are no difficulties on your own, since they have an almost ready-to-use, modular design that does not require the assembly of individual parts. To insert and secure it in a window opening, you do not need to have any special technical education or expensive equipment.

Please note that installation is carried out at your own responsibility. which means you need to measure, select and order all the components and materials yourself.

Accordingly, the supplier’s guarantee will only apply to the double-glazed windows and fittings, and the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual operability of the window are solely the responsibility of the individual who installed it.

If the order was made from an installation organization, it provides a full guarantee on materials and installation quality from one to 5 years.

However, if you have at least a couple of days off, hard work and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing in your own home yourself, doing this job no worse than an entire installation team. In this case, the team means the foreman who actually installs the window profile and his assistant who gives him the tools.

Thus, when carrying out the work yourself, you just need to call someone, a relative, acquaintance or friend, for help, and in the speed of glazing you can compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else’s labor will be zero.

Common mistakes

When non-professionals install a double-glazed window on their own for the first time, they often make a number of common mistakes, which, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the service life and comfort of the window structure:

The profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, which makes the house completely defenseless for unauthorized persons to enter. To do this, they just need to remove the glazing beads and simply pull the double-glazed windows out of the openings.
Installation is carried out as is, that is, without checking and adjusting the level, which results in problems with the functioning of the structure.
Foaming the cracks using a can of polyurethane foam, do not read the instructions for it, which say about its vulnerability to ultraviolet radiation. This means that in order for it to remain intact, the cracks with it must be covered with cladding.
Fixing the structure simply by foaming the cracks without securing it in any way in the opening. Such a mistake in the case of an opening with a quarter can, in extreme cases, lead to cracking of the slopes, since the foam does not guarantee the immobility of the frame, which, when displaced, will break them. In the case of an opening without a quarter, the glass unit may, over time, under the influence of vibration or other factors, generally fall out onto the street.

Not recommended for dismantling any wooden structures, and in particular old frame, use a metal cutter, as it is not suitable for this.
Such a thin disc, rotating at a speed of 7000 revolutions per minute, can easily get stuck or deformed on the first knot, which is extremely dangerous for the operator and others. This is also true for a toothed disc on wood. So that one of the household members does not accidentally ruin the work

If you accidentally open the sash at the stage of foam hardening, it is best not to install the opening handle at this time; without it, even out of ignorance, it will be impossible to open it, and in the case of solid frames, this nuance is not at all relevant.

At the moment, there are a huge number of intermediary companies that install translucent metal-plastic structures. Employees of these companies commit violations of installation technology, which cause serious problems later. The purpose of the article is to tell ordinary homeowners how to properly install plastic windows with their own hands, without paying for services of dubious quality.

Stages of installation work

As a rule, installers of metal-plastic windows offer the customer 2 installation options - budget and according to GOST, and the prices for services differ markedly. You shouldn’t use the first technology even at the dacha - after 3-5 years negative consequences will appear: freezing, cracks in the slopes or warping of the frame.
Selecting a manufacturer, concluding a contract and inviting a specialist – a measurer.
Purchase of additional materials.
Dismantling old wooden structures (if necessary), preparing the opening.

Advice. When choosing a company for the production of translucent structures, analyze various promotional offers. Products with short-lived aluminum fittings - handles, latches, and so on - are sold at too low a price. Parts break most quickly on an opening window sash or balcony door.

A company surveyor is needed for two reasons:

an experienced specialist knows better how to take measurements correctly;
the service is prerequisite to maintain the factory warranty on the product.

Basic dimensions for ordering PVC windows

When the master measures the opening and puts the dimensions on the drawing, make a copy of this sketch. Based on the finished picture, it is easier to calculate how much additional materials need to be purchased. After concluding the contract, you have 10-15 days to purchase them and carry out preparatory work.

List of related materials

The composition of the installation kit depends on the building materials from which the building is constructed. IN stone houses Installation of plastic windows is carried out using 3 types of fasteners:

anchor bolts through the frame - in brick and cinder block walls;
with concrete screws (dowels) through the frame - in walls made of reinforced concrete panels;
remote fastening with self-tapping screws on a metal plate - in structures made of porous materials - aerated concrete, foam blocks, and so on.

Fastening with anchors (left) and concrete screws (right)

Note. IN wooden houses metal-plastic windows are attached with special dowels to the casing. We will consider separately how to properly install the product in a wall made of timber and logs.

Fastening to perforated steel plates is used in cases where the installation line of the frame coincides with the insulation layer inside the wall - an anchor in foam plastic or mineral wool useless. The structure is mounted on rigid steel plates 2 mm thick, screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

To independently insert a PVC window into the opening in accordance with GOST requirements, purchase the following materials:

plastic stepped wedges for leveling the product in the opening;
vapor barrier tape that protects the assembly seam from moisture and ultraviolet radiation, which destroys polyurethane foam;
the same, with a metallized layer for internal insulation;

diffusion strip (allows moisture to pass in one direction and protects the joint from the outside);
pre-compressed sealing tape (abbreviated as PSUL);
polyurethane foam in a container, preferably in a professional version for a gun.

Important point. When performing work during the cold season, especially in winter, choose the appropriate type of polyurethane foam. There are 3 varieties: summer, all-season and winter.

For exterior finishing slopes, purchase platbands suitable for the type of building cladding. It is better to frame the inside of a plastic window with PVC slopes, as the master advises in his video:

Preparing the opening - instructions for dummies

The main goal of dismantling work is to dismantle the old wooden window, causing minimal damage building construction. First of all, remove unnecessary things from the room, cover the furniture with plastic wrap, and also remove curtains and carpets.

Advice. Disassemble old windows upon delivery of new translucent structures, so that you do not have to cover the through hole at night.

The window opening should be thoroughly cleaned and any irregularities removed. If during disassembly the embedded parts are torn out of the walls, seal the recesses with cement - sand mortar. In order to strengthen and remove dust, treat all surfaces with a primer (2 times) or a special primer.

Installing a new window

As a rule, the manufacturer supplies products assembled. Before installing a plastic window, it should be disassembled - remove the opening sashes and remove the double-glazed windows that interfere with screwing in the dowels (anchors). An exception is the installation of PVC windows on metal plates, in this case there is no need to remove the glass.

Disassembly is done as follows:

Important! Number the glazing beads as you remove them so that they can be put in their proper places when reassembling.

Before installing the frame into the opening, screw the plastic brackets with self-tapping screws mosquito net, since it is inconvenient to perform the operation outside. Moving the lower support profile to the side, separate it from the frame, cover it with PSUL tape and put it back. Cover the drainage holes of the windows with decorative inserts and proceed to installation in the following order:

The last stage is the installation of ebb, window sill and plastic slopes on the window. The ebb is placed on a special compensation lining, in the budget version - on polyurethane foam. The fold that is bent upward is screwed with self-tapping screws to the stand profile. The window sill is mounted in the same way (do not forget to cover the end with a decorative cap).

To finish the slopes you need to insert plastic panels into the starting strip, place the platband on the inner plane of the wall and attach it with dowels. At the end, the joints of the window sill and slopes are sealed silicone sealant, as demonstrated in the training video for installing plastic windows:

Features of installation in wooden houses

Walls made of timber or rounded logs tend to “shrink” after construction and “breathe” throughout the year. If you do not take these factors into account when installing a metal-plastic window with your own hands, the double-glazed windows will quickly crack from the load.

To compensate for the deformation of the wood, you need to make a frame for the window openings with a sliding beam:

Note. IN frame houses the shrinkage is not so great, so the casing is not made - the window is inserted into the finished opening.

Further installation of the window block is carried out using the technology described above, but with one caveat: the fastening pins should not pass through the casing boards and be screwed into the main wall. Otherwise, the sliding beam will not work and the window will pull along with the structure. Select the length of the dowels to match the thickness of the casing, which is described in detail in the video:

Conclusion

The technology for installing metal-plastic windows is not particularly difficult, but there are many little things that should not be forgotten. For example, if you do not glue the inner tape, then vapors from the room will get into the assembly seam, condensation will form, which will gradually destroy the foam due to freezing. A separate story is the installation of inclined roof windows. This work should not be done on your own; it is better to turn to professionals.

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day. To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows with optimal thermal characteristics with a four-chamber window profile and a double-glazed unit, as well as a reinforced entrance door. By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there). For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam. The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings to fit standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window. We calculate the final dimensions of the window taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, you need to subtract 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically from the internal dimensions of the opening. You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows. In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also not in the frame bubble level. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place. The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience. Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon. This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile. To support the frame on the base of the opening I use a piece of laminate 7 mm thick.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the side window vertically. In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, tighten the self-tapping screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates. Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone. I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side, except the bottom. Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows, there is a support profile at the bottom into which the window sill will be installed. Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make is that the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation. Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output. There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know. First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed. The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward. It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, carefully compacting it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

15. Next, install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window opens poorly or jams, this is a sign that errors were made when installing the window. Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up. And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done! Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Now comes the fun part. The Chertanovo office of the Okna Rosta company decided that there should be a discount on windows not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All the details are here -

Nowadays the trend is to replace old ones wooden windows on plastic is becoming more common. Such windows have whole line advantages that significantly distinguish them from their competitors. As a rule, window installation is carried out with the help of specialists who will cope with the task in a matter of hours. However, fast does not always mean good. Sometimes, in a hurry, craftsmen forget about various little things that they later have to finish on their own. To avoid such “professional” installation, you can install plastic windows yourself. The main thing is to write down a clear action plan and follow all its points.

Window measurements

The first step is to measure the width and height of the window opening. Width is the distance between the internal parts of the wall - the slopes. Height - the distance between the upper slope and the window sill. Based on the obtained dimensions, you can calculate the size of the window. You need to subtract 3 cm from the resulting width (1.5 cm of gap on each side). You need to subtract 5 cm from the height (1.5 cm for the gap at the top and 3.5 cm for installing the window sill).

The size of the window sill and external ebb is calculated taking into account a gap of 5-10 cm. During installation, both the window sill and ebb are “recessed” into the window opening. The width of the window sill should be such that it does not overlap the heating radiator by more than 1/3. Measurements of slopes are carried out immediately after the installation of windows, since it is quite difficult to determine their size in advance.

Material selection

The selection of plastic windows is carried out according to several criteria at once. First, you need to decide on the principle of fastening the frame. It comes in two types:

through the frame in the packaging plane;
using pre-installed support reinforcement.

The first installation option is considered more reliable, but at the same time more complex. The principle is to unpack the window. The glass is removed from the frame. The frame is then inserted into the opening and secured to the wall using anchors. Double-glazed windows are reinserted into the finished frame. This method allows you to strengthen the window structure, but during installation the risk of damaging the glass increases.

The second method is to install the windows without first unpacking them. IN in this case Metal plates are pre-attached to the window frame, with the help of which the window is mounted in the opening. This method is quite simple, but the reliability is significantly lower compared to the first option.

Another criterion when choosing plastic windows is the quality of the material. First, pay attention to the reinforcing profile, which serves as the basis of any window. It must be made exclusively of galvanized steel. If the window is made using a different metal, then later it will become covered with rust and red streaks will appear on the window.

No less important is the choice of the double-glazed window itself. For unheated rooms, you can choose a single-chamber package; for an apartment, house or office, it is better to give the room to two- or three-chamber models. The glass itself can be either plain or infrared coated. Infrared glass, by the way, will be an excellent solution for windows facing east. Infrared rays are able to reflect heat, so even on the hottest summer days the room will be comfortable.

Preparatory work before installation

Before installing a new window, you need to dismantle the old one. This is done in stages. First from window frame remove the glass, having first used a chisel to pry the glazing beads that hold it in place. If this is not done during installation, the glass may break and injure you. Next you need to cut the frame. This can be done either with a regular saw or with a grinder. However, it is worth remembering that the grinder can only be used if you have a diamond disc or a concrete disc. To avoid injury, it is strictly forbidden to use discs on wood and metal. Having cut the frame into pieces, you can begin to dismantle it, armed with a hammer drill, crowbar or nail puller.

The next step is to remove the old window sill and flashing. If they are wooden, then the same principle is used for dismantling as for the frame. The window sill or ebb needs to be cut into several parts and pulled out one by one. With a concrete window sill, things are somewhat more complicated. It can only be removed by first breaking it into pieces using a jackhammer.

Having gotten rid of the old window, you can begin the final preparatory work. The window opening must be thoroughly cleaned of construction dust and debris generated during the dismantling process. This can be done using a regular vacuum cleaner. It is also worth removing the remnants of old insulation and polyurethane foam.

After all the work carried out, the surface of the window opening must be treated with a primer. Next, a so-called stand profile is installed at the bottom of the future window, to which the glass unit itself will be attached in the future. The profile is fixed using polyurethane foam.

Window installation

If the method of unpacking the glass unit was chosen to install a plastic window, then the process will proceed as follows. The first step is to remove the glass from the window frame. To do this, carefully remove one by one all the glazing beads that hold the glass in place. Then the glass is smoothly removed from the frame at a slight angle. After unpacking the double-glazed window, it is better to immediately remove the glass to another room so as not to damage it during installation of the frame.

To begin with, the window frame must be installed on pre-prepared wooden wedges. This is necessary so that the frame initially takes the desired position and does not move during installation.

Armed with a drill, holes are made in the frame for anchors (three holes on each side). After drilling all the holes, you should make sure that the frame has not moved. To do this, you can use a plumb line and a laser level. It is better not to use a traditional bubble level, as it does not provide the most accurate measurements.

After making sure that all indicators are normal, you can attach the window with anchors. To do this, using a hammer drill at the level of the holes already existing in the frame, you need to make similar holes in the wall, at least 6 cm deep. Next, the anchors are fastened, starting from the bottom row. After each anchor is attached, the evenness of the window is rechecked.

At the stage of mounting the window frame, the ebb and flow is installed. It is attached to the stand profile, which was pre-installed under the frame. The edges of the ebb need to be “recessed” a little into the wall, after making holes in it. At the end of installation, all existing joints and cracks on the outside of the window are sealed with sealant.

Having completed all the above manipulations, glass can be inserted into the frame.

Installation of a plastic window without unpacking is carried out according to a similar principle. Difference this process The only difference is that the package in this case is not disassembled, but mounted completely. The window structure is fastened without the use of anchors, but with the help of special plates.

Just as in the first case, the double-glazed window is installed on a pre-prepared support profile and wooden wedges. The window is then leveled and checked with a level. TO window profile plates made of durable metal are screwed with self-tapping screws. They can be linear or U-shaped. The distance between the plates should not exceed 7 cm.

The plates have so-called tails with holes for anchors. During installation, the tails must be bent and pressed tightly against the wall. A dowel is inserted into the existing hole and mounted into the wall using a drill. In this case, the anchors are fastened from bottom to top. At each stage of screwing in the dowels, the window undergoes a leveling check.

Window sill installation

Installation of a metal-plastic window sill begins with cutting it. The shape of the window sill should be such that it easily fits into the side openings and at the same time is in close contact with the lining profile. Between the side walls of the window frame and the window sill you need to leave a small gap (about 1 cm), which will later be covered by slopes.

Having placed the window sill in the desired way, you can begin to fasten it. To do this, several wooden wedges are inserted under the window sill, which will protect it from moving. Then the space formed under it is filled with polyurethane foam or cement mortar. In this case, you need to put some kind of weight on the window sill itself to create a slight slope. This manipulation is necessary to drain condensate.

When the foam or mortar has hardened, the window sill is attached to the window frame. This is done using self-tapping screws on the inside.

Slopes

The design of slopes is the final stage of installing metal-plastic windows. They can be made either using plasterboard or using PVC panels.

Drywall slopes are beneficial in cases where the surface of the inside of the window opening cannot be leveled. Such slopes are made as follows:

a special L-shaped profile is attached along the edge of the window frame;
the inside of the profile is filled with sealant;
pre-prepared strips of drywall are inserted into the grooves of the profile;
the empty space between the wall and the drywall is filled with mineral wool;
The places where the slopes come into contact with the wall are lubricated with glue.

Slopes made of PVC panels are somewhat easier to install, but they should only be used on perfectly flat surfaces. This is done like this:

strips of the required size are cut from PVC panels;
with help liquid nails the workpieces are attached to the working surface;
the ends and joints between the slopes are closed with special plastic corners.