Installing spotlights with your own hands: location, connection diagram and installation. We install spotlights for plasterboard ceilings: device, installation and possible malfunctions Lamps in a plasterboard ceiling

The fastest and most convenient way. Drywall crowns are sold in almost all hardware stores and construction markets. The price of the set, depending on the number of blades, diameter and manufacturer, ranges from $2 to $30. The most popular sets with 7 blades with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm with one holder, cutting depth up to 18 mm. The price of this set is $2-5:

For holes of larger diameter (for example, for installing lamps), you can buy a set with blades with a diameter of 60, 67, 74, 81, 95 mm with a cutting depth of 32 mm. This set costs $5-8.

To drill a hole of the required diameter (or close to it), you must first remove all the blades, turning each one slightly clockwise and pulling it towards you, select the blade of the required diameter and insert it into place. Drilling takes from 3 to 10 seconds; it takes longer to select the blade. Marking and drilling are done from the front side of the drywall. Holes can be drilled both on plasterboard sheets screwed to the frame, and on sheets not secured in the designed position.

It’s very convenient, but it happens that the sets don’t have blades of the required diameter. For example, to install a socket box, the hole must be as precise as possible so that the socket box does not dangle later. In this case, you can use a combined method: first drill a hole with a crown, and then adjust the hole to the desired size with a knife. How this can be done is shown in the video:

If you are only interested in drilling, then you do not need to watch the entire video.

However, you may not have a crown at hand, it doesn’t matter, there are other ways to make a hole in the gypsum board:

2. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Using a jigsaw, you can make a hole of any geometric shape and size, if necessary, get a hole as close as possible to a round one; the side surface of the gypsum board is sanded with sandpaper.

If you need to make a hole with a very small diameter (20-30 mm), then it is better to use a narrow saw for cutting holes in the chipboard. There are just limitations: you can’t make a hole on a glued gypsum board with a jigsaw, and if the distance between the base of the wall or ceiling and the front surface of the plasterboard sheet is less than the height of the jigsaw file at the maximum output of the file, then the jigsaw won’t help here either. But it’s not evening yet, there are other ways:

3. Drill with a circular drill (nibblers) on the tiles - “ballerina”.

In fact, ballerinas are designed for drilling holes in ceramic tiles, but if you have one, you can easily use it, especially since you can set the diameter of the hole to the nearest millimeter. The price of a “ballerina” is not high - $2-10, which is comparable to the price of a set of crowns. Ballerinas look like this:

With a ballerina you can drill a hole even in a plasterboard sheet glued to a concrete wall or ceiling, since a ballerina drill usually has a pobedite tip. The only limitation is that the maximum diameter of the hole is limited by the ballerina's shoulder.

4. Using a hacksaw blade for metal.

This is the first available remedy. The blade is removed from the metal hacksaw, several small-diameter holes are drilled into the plasterboard and then the blade is inserted into the holes. To work with a hacksaw blade for metal, special hacksaw handles are sold:

If you need to make a lot of holes, then it is better to buy such a handle. The larger the hole diameter, the more convenient it is to work. This method has two limitations: the minimum hole diameter is 50 mm (you can, of course, cut a hole with a smaller diameter, but it’s easier to do this in other ways) and it will not be possible to make holes in a gypsum board glued to a thin layer.

5. Drill with a drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If you work with drywall, then you definitely have a drill and drill bits in the house. In this case, the drill replaces the router, so the diameter of the drill cannot be too small, otherwise the drill may break, and with a large diameter of the drill, unnecessary mechanical work is performed, and it is harder to hold the drill. This method is good because it is suitable for all cases, but you need to be careful when making a hole in this way in a gypsum board glued to the base. In order to make a hole of the required diameter (or dimensions if the hole is not round), draw the contours of the hole on the plasterboard sheet, drill the first hole from the inside of the line and, without turning off the drill, move the drill along the line (leaving an indent of 1 just in case -2 mm, if the hole must be very precise), it is advisable to hold the drill with 2 hands. If it is necessary to obtain a hole as close as possible to a round one, the side surface of the gypsum board is sanded with sandpaper.

6. Drill out with a drill.

The essence of this method is to make maximum perforation of the plasterboard sheet. Next to the contours of the hole, using a drill of any convenient diameter, many holes are drilled as close to each other as possible. After this, the middle is carefully knocked out, and the remaining teeth are removed first with a knife, then with sandpaper:

7. Cut with a knife.

The most difficult, time-consuming and dangerous method for both you and the gypsum board, but sometimes you have to use it. The hole is cut in 6-10 passes with a knife. The blade of the knife extends 5-8 mm (meaning a simple wallpaper knife); during the first pass, the knife is held perpendicular to the gypsum board. During the second pass, the knife is held tilted in one direction, and during the third pass, tilted in the opposite direction. Thus, in 3 passes, a groove is obtained along the contour of the hole with a depth of 2-4 mm. With subsequent passes, the groove deepens until the plasterboard sheet is completely cut through. If you do not use linings, then there is a high probability of the gypsum board breaking off.

8. Get a tattoo.

If you have children who are doing extremely poorly in school, do not be discouraged, and such children can be of great benefit. Take a meter from the preparation room - a thing similar to a compass, only with needles on both legs, and, setting the meter to the required radius, make punctures in the sheet every 2-3 mm. Using a knife, cut the cardboard on both sides along the contour of the hole. After this, it is advisable to place the sheet on supports so that there is no support under the future hole, but there is support next to the hole. Now, with a sharp blow of a hammer in the center of the outline, you can knock out a hole.

There are other ways, but I think these will be enough for you for the first time, if not, leave a comment, we will take it into account.

Spot lighting is the best choice for rooms with suspended ceilings. Installing spotlights will provide additional light and effectively highlight the interior of your apartment.

Modern design solutions cannot do without the use of this fashionable element. In addition to enhancing lighting, spotlights are used as lighting in furniture and decorative structures.

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Selecting a luminaire model

Recessed luminaires are distinguished by design:

• Rotary. This type has a more complex design, which to a certain extent makes their installation more troublesome. But at the same time, they have a significant advantage - the ability to focus the rays to a specific point. There are even rotary overhead models equipped with a micromotor for remote control.
• Fixed lamps are arranged quite simply. If you choose stationary models, installing spotlights in plasterboard does not cause any particular difficulties. True, such a light bulb will only shine in one direction, so its placement should be carefully considered.

Today we also offer a huge selection of decorative overlays that hide the gap between the light bulb and the edge of the surface. These characteristics do not affect the technical capabilities, so you can choose according to individual preferences and the interior of the room.

When purchasing spotlights, you also have to choose lamps for them. It can be:

— traditional incandescent lamps

— halogen lamps

— fluorescent lamps.

Proper selection of a light source is important, since not only electricity consumption, but also the spectrum of produced rays depends on it. In addition, the light bulb is selected according to the parameters of the lamp itself.

Note!

The size of devices with incandescent lamps can reach 12 cm; they should be installed only on large ceilings.

Fluorescent and LED elements are designed for compact structures that can easily be hidden in a 6-centimeter ceiling. The cost of such devices is higher, but the difference cannot be called critical. And the costs are more than offset by very low energy consumption. Experts recommend purchasing mirror-coated lamps that produce “soft” light that is comfortable for the eyes and are not subject to overheating.

Ceiling mounting principle

Self-installation of lamps: rules, stages of work

1. Planning and placement

Having decided to decorate the interior with built-in lighting without the help of specialists, first of all, you need to correctly determine the location of spotlights on the ceiling. They need to be placed on the ceiling in rows. The main task is to achieve uniform and efficient lighting. To do this, you must adhere to the following parameters:

— the distance between rows of lamps should not exceed 1 meter;

— in a row, lamps should be separated by a gap of up to 1.5 m;

— the distance from the wall should be no more than 60cm.

You also need to take into account the presence of other light sources in the room. For example, when you plan to hang a chandelier in the center of the ceiling, spotlights can be placed only around the perimeter of the box.

Work on installing built-in lighting is carried out at the stage of ceiling installation. On the ceiling, you must first mark the locations of the lamps. It is important that the distance from them to the metal frame profiles is more than 25 cm.

Spot lighting is successfully used for zoning space. For this purpose, the following scheme is used: lamps are placed in functional areas and in areas where additional lighting is needed.

According to designers, the most effective and productive is to place devices in a checkerboard pattern. If two to four light bulbs are usually enough to illuminate shelves or plasterboard decor, then for ceiling decoration you will need a decent amount of them. In order for the built-in lighting to look harmonious, it is preferable to install devices of the same design and color in the same room.

1. Wiring

The most critical stage in the entire process is. This work is carried out in parallel with the production of the plasterboard ceiling frame. For convenience, it is better to make a drawing of all future wiring indicating all the elements: wires, switches, light bulbs, transformers. The connection diagram for spotlights is identical to that used in connecting standard lighting equipment: power source (220v), switch and the device itself. To illuminate a plasterboard wall, you need to make additional wiring on the wall, with its own wire placed opposite each device.

Connection and connection of cables is carried out using special terminal blocks and bolted connections. The ideal fastening method is tinned copper sleeves. All areas where wires are connected should be protected with insulating tape.

As for the reliability of the wires, it is worth using a soft multi-core type to connect lamps. For the general system, hard or soft copper types are suitable: VVG-3x1.5 and ShVVP. When luminaires are connected using terminal blocks, the first type is more acceptable.

As a safety measure, the wiring must be protected from external influences by enclosing it in special corrugated plastic pipes.

Note!

Additionally, clamps can be installed on the frame elements to secure the pipes.

If you have no experience in installing electrical wiring yourself, it is better to reinforce the recommendations by studying the corresponding video tutorial.

1. Preparing holes for lamps

When you have already decided how to position the future lamps and have made the wiring, you can proceed to a simpler stage - preparing the holes. Before starting this procedure, you must read the lamp's instructions, which should contain information about the required hole diameter. To be on the safe side, it is better to try on the size yourself. Traditionally the hole diameter is 65 or 75mm. To drill them, use a special drywall cutter.

It is much easier to make holes in the drywall sheet when it is not yet secured to the ceiling or box. In this case, the chance of an accurate hit is higher. If you have to drill into already reinforced sheets, experts advise checking the location of the metal frame using a magnet so as not to get into it.

After all the inputs for the spotlights are formed and the box is finally made, you can proceed to the finishing work. All proposed surface finishing must be done before connecting the spotlights.

Installation of the lamp

1. Connecting lamps

When the final stage of finishing the drywall is completed, it is time to begin installing and connecting the lamps. Before starting work, be sure to make sure that there is no voltage in the network.

First, the cable loops intended for connecting to the light bulbs are led out through the prepared holes. Next, the loops need to be cut at the bend and each wire should be exposed on each side by about 10-15mm. One end of the wire is connected to the terminal of the device, and the other is screwed to the power cable. There is a marking on the lamp, where L is phase, N is zero, and PE is grounding. According to this scheme, the connection must be made.
When all the circuit elements are installed, it is time to connect the main wire to the junction box and to the switch. LED devices must be connected to a step-down power supply. Next, check how successful you were in connecting the spotlights with your own hands. If the lighting works, you can proceed to the final stage.

Connected lamp

1. Installation of lamps

Insert the lamp body into the prepared hole. Typically, the fastening mechanism of modern models consists of two brackets located on the sides. These staples (tendrils) simply need to be brought together and inserted into the drywall, without allowing the wires to get under the clamps. After entering, the spring mechanism will automatically move the staples apart, so the device will fit snugly against the edge.

As a rule, installation of the device itself does not cause difficulties. In some cases, the design of the fastener does not allow it to be inserted freely into the hole. Then you have to resort to a little trick: connecting the staples, tighten them with a piece of wire. To avoid a short circuit, you must use an insulated rigid wire. The antennae tied together can be easily inserted into the cell, then simply cut the wire with wire cutters and push the device all the way in.

Once you have successfully installed the housing, you can insert the light bulb into the socket. Now all that remains is the decorative overlay. This is exactly the part that will be visible from the outside, and with the help of which it is easy to hide joints and possible defects that arose when drilling the canvas.

This was the last procedure. Having completed it, you just need to check the functionality of the manufactured system. And, if everything is in order, you can safely call your loved ones to show off the splendor you created with your own hands.

DIY installation of spotlights video:

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A suspended plasterboard ceiling consists of a metal or wooden frame covered with gypsum plasterboard sheets. Installation of such a system helps to create a variety of design projects, disguise electrical wiring, and ventilation ducts. When planning lighting, it is necessary to take into account that a suspended ceiling significantly reduces the height of the room. The strength properties of sheet material do not allow fastening heavy structures directly to gypsum boards.

1. Chandeliers - play the role of main lighting. Suspended from a hook or bar. For rooms with low ceilings, small-sized lamps with light weight are preferable.

2. Spotlights are classified according to several criteria:

• built-in;
• invoices;
• hanging;
• single;
• block (gimbals);
• rotary and stationary;
• operating on voltage 220, 12 and 3 volts;
• by lighting elements: incandescent lamps; LED; halogen; luminescent.

3. LED strips and fiber optic lamps. Used for niches of multi-level ceilings and creating various color effects: starry sky, running lights.

Installation technology step by step

System components:

• Lamps. To save energy, a single power of up to 40 W is sufficient.
• Three-core copper cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2: VVG–3x1.5, ShVVP or PVS. In a damp room or wooden floor, RKGM wire is more suitable.
• Switching terminals for cable: screw, spring.
• Copper sleeves for crimping twisted wires.
• For lamps consuming 12 volts, a step-down transformer must be included in the electrical circuit. Its output power should exceed by 20-25% the total indicator of the devices connected to it.
• Dimmer – allows you to adjust the brightness and power consumption.

Installation is preceded by several stages:

1. Design project preparation. This stage determines: the choice of type of lighting, the number of light points and location.
2. A sketch of the placement of gypsum board sheets and lamps is made.
3. A scheme for connecting electrical appliances to the network is selected. A separate electrical circuit is provided for each type.
4. Marks are placed on the ceiling with a felt-tip pen at the points where the lamps will be placed.
5. Wiring is being assembled. From the switch, through the junction box, the cable is pulled into corrugated sleeves or metal tubes. The latter are attached to the ceiling with nail brackets or dowel clamps.
6. The exposed wire strands are insulated. The free ends with a margin of 20-25 cm are tied with a loop.
7. For medium-sized appliances, a hook is installed on the ceiling or the frame is reinforced with an additional profile.
8. Plasterboard sheets are attached. During the assembly process, the placement points of the lamps are marked with a pencil on the gypsum board. This will avoid exposure to the metal profile when drilling holes.
9. Using a power tool, a wood saw, or by hand, a cut is made in the drywall. The diameter is indicated in the instructions supplied with the spotlight. If the manual is not available, you will need to measure the inside of the case.
10. The false ceiling is being finished.

The connection diagram can be serial or parallel. The second option is more reliable:

• there is a uniform distribution of voltage;
• When one bulb burns out, the others continue to function.

Location options when installing surface-mounted and built-in lamps:

• in straight rows from the window;
• in a checkerboard pattern;
• peripherally, as auxiliary lighting, around a chandelier.

In the case of installing spotlights as the main source, the following rules are followed:

• The distance between points is no more than 1 meter. For block ones, a step of 1.5-2 m is selected.
• The distance from the wall is at least 60-80 cm. If there is furniture along the partition, this figure is adjusted.

The procedure for connecting spotlights built-in:

• Pull the prepared wire through the hole.
• The cores are stripped to the required length. Using terminals, wires of the same color from the electrical cable and the socket are connected. When using copper sleeves, additional insulation with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape is required.
• The housing is placed with the latches pressed and inserted into the slot. In the free position, the clamps will securely fix the electrical appliance.
• The lamp is inserted into the socket and pressed with a spring ring.
• Connect the remaining lamps.

Installation rules are determined by the design:

• The hole for the wires must be covered by the electrical appliance.
• Pull the cable through the mounting plate.
• Attach the plank to the plasterboard sheet using a molly dowel, a “butterfly”.
• The contact wires of the base, connected to the cable, are tucked into the hole.
• The lamp is attached to the bracket.

Installation errors

1. Installation of electrical wiring must be carried out with the voltage turned off. Moving the switch to the “off” position does not always prevent the phase from entering.

2. Before connecting the base to the cable, it is better to make sure that the color marking of the cores is correct using a tester.

3. The absence of a corrugated hose or metal pipe as additional insulation for wiring is fraught with a fire. The casing protects against mechanical impact and prevents moisture. The use of PVC corrugation is only permissible when laid on concrete in dry rooms. In a bathhouse or sauna, it is advisable to use a metal pipe for electrical wiring.

4. Masters break spears using the method of connecting wires. Everyone defends their own method: twisting, soldering, VAGO terminals. The main thing is to prevent metal oxidation and contact disruption using reliable insulation.

5. Unprotected spotlights are placed in rooms with high humidity. The protection class is indicated on the packaging. The marking must be at least IP66. It is prohibited to place lighting points on a plasterboard ceiling directly above a water source. It is advisable to use lamps consuming 12 volts.

6. When installing a dimmer, you must purchase special dimmable (adjustable) lamps.

7. An unsuccessfully drilled hole in a gypsum board for a built-in lamp is not a tragedy. There is no need to change the sheet. Coat the inside of the slot and the edge of the cut circle with pearlfix or a plaster-based mixture. Remove the cardboard from the patch and carefully place it in its original place. Apply the same solution to the surface. Let it dry and restore the decorative layer.

In order not to make mistakes and to be confident in the reliability and safety of lighting, it is better to entrust the work to qualified specialists.

A spotlight today is not so much a light source as an important decorative element. It is of great importance in creating coziness in a room, and this is obvious - a chain of small beautiful lights, successfully integrated into the ceiling structure, has great interior appeal.

Of course, the choice of the lamps themselves is of great importance. It affects not only the appearance of the ceiling in the future, but also how difficult the installation will be.

Spotlights are a lighting device that emits beams of light directed downward. True, there are designs where the light can be redirected, but they are not used so often.

The body of this device can be made of plastic. This is the cheapest option, which is not so bad, but the duration of its use may be questioned. An alternative to plastic is glass, thermoplastic, metals and their alloys. Often, to give the lamp a luxurious look, the device is coated with bronze, chrome or polished brass.

Three types of lamps are in greatest demand:

• An ordinary incandescent lamp. It is still in use, but it is predicted that the good old incandescent lamp will soon have to be abandoned - it is significantly inferior to its more modern competitors. If you still like this option, its installation will require up to 12 cm of space from ceiling to floor. An open type of construction is usually used; a closed type is used when the humidity in the room is higher than normal.
• Halogen lamp. Definitely a more interesting option. Installation of such lamps will take no more than 6 cm of space. Such lamps will be a more economical option, and their durability, of course, is much higher than that of a traditional lamp. But there are some nuances that cannot be hidden: almost all halogen lamps are powered by a twelve-volt voltage source, which means you will have to purchase a transformer. It is masked behind sheets of drywall. You can also find 220 V halogen lamps, but their service life will be short.
• LED bulbs. This option forces you to fork out more, but there is something to pay for. Firstly, the lamps are used for a very long time. Secondly, in appearance they look better than their competitors. But to connect them you also need a transformer.

Almost all LED strips are equipped with a built-in controller that can set various programs and effects. To install an LED strip with a controller, the ceiling must be at least two-level.

Dimensions

Spotlights differ from each other in shape, color and size. The size of the lamp is selected according to the parameters of the ceiling structure; this is usually clarified during the work process - you look at the future design of the ceiling, determining how the lamps should be built into it, and what place they should have in the overall composition.

When choosing a lamp, look at the degree of protection of the device, this is indicated on the packaging. The first number is the size of the particles that can penetrate the lamp. For example, a marking with the first number 1 means that particles of 50 mm can enter the device. And if the first digit is 4, then particles of 1 mm may enter the device.

The degree of moisture resistance is also indicated on the packaging. For example, a “one” on the marking indicates that the device is protected from drops that fall vertically. And the number 7 means that the lamp can withstand a short immersion.

Lamps can be placed according to the following parameters:

• The distance from the lamp to the wall is no more than 0.6 m;
• The distance between rows of built-in spotlights is no more than 1 m;
• The distance between lamps in the same row is no more than one and a half meters.

You can place the built-in lamps in a checkerboard pattern, which means respecting the offset of the rows. This will improve the quality of lighting in the room.

Holes for lamps

There are several ways to make a hole in drywall for a lamp. This work can be done with professional tools and various improvised means.

Ways to create holes:

• Using a jigsaw. With this tool you can make a hole of literally any shape and any size, and get a very close to round hole. In this case, the side surface of the plasterboard is sanded with sandpaper.
• Using a circular drill bit on tiles. The more common name is “ballerina.” And although “ballerinas” are designed to drill holes in ceramic tiles, such a tool is also very useful for drilling holes for lamps. The most important thing is the ability to set the hole diameter with millimeter precision.
• Using a crown on drywall. This method allows you to do everything as quickly as possible. You can buy a set at any construction market with blades of seven diameters and one holder. The maximum cutting depth will be 18 mm.
• Using a hacksaw blade. This is the very handy tool that can always be found in the pantry or garage. Remove the blade from the hacksaw, drill several small-diameter holes in the drywall, and then insert the blade into the hole.
• Using a drill. Here you will have to make maximum perforation of the plasterboard. Close to the outline of the hole, using any drill of a convenient diameter, drill many holes next to each other. Then carefully knock out the middle, remove the remaining teeth with a knife, and then use sandpaper.
• By creating tattoos. In the drawing room, if you have one, take a meter and, setting it to the desired radius, pierce the sheet through 2-3 mm. Using a knife, cut the sheet along the contour of the hole on both sides. Then place the sheet on supports so that there is no support under the hole, but there is support next to the hole. Hit the center of the outline with a hammer - this will knock out a hole.

There are other methods, such as cutting with a knife, but they are more labor-intensive.

How does installation work?

This process does not require any special skills, and it is not physically difficult to do. The main thing is to make the markings correctly, knock out the holes well, and installation will be a matter of technique.

Installing spotlights in drywall will look like this:

• Marking – mark the location of the lamps on the drywall;
• Use any method to drill holes that match the diameter of the lamps;
• Pull out the de-energized electrical cable through the hole and connect a light source to it;
• Use spring clamps to secure the device into the hole (clamps are included);
• After the fixture is installed, screw in the light bulb and put on the outer decorative ring.

After this, check if the lights work.

Safety-conscious installation

If the spotlights already have terminals, you simply attach them. If there are none, you will have to purchase them. Choose those that are designed for a current of at least 6 amperes.

If you know how to solder, then this connection method is suitable, but without soldering experience it is better not to do this.

Each device traditionally has three wires - “0”, ground and phase. If your home does not have a ground connection, leave the terminal free. When you finish connecting, check whether the installation was done correctly and whether the lamps are working. And only after that insert them into the hole.

If the product has a very elastic spring, it will be difficult to compress it and installation will become more complicated. Therefore, the ends of the tendril springs can be tightened in advance with thin wire, then insert the device halfway into the hole and cut the wire.

Installation and connection of spotlights in drywall (video)

Installing spotlights in plasterboard is advantageous, since the height of the lighting fixtures is no more than 5 cm, which allows installation at the lowest point of a metal frame installed under a suspended ceiling. And this saves space in the room.

Installation includes several stages, which are performed in a certain sequence:

• Planning;
• Wiring installation;
• Connection.

It is convenient to make marks on the ceiling with a felt-tip pen as you assemble the frame. Guided by this marking, the wiring is quickly assembled in subsequent work. To do this, draw up a drawing of the ceiling in advance, on which they determine the number of light points, the connection diagram, determine the footage and cross-section of the power cable, etc.

This is what the wiring arrangement looks like without gypsum boards

Lamp arrangement diagram

For optimal distribution of light throughout the room, 3 types of connection diagrams are used:

• In rows in a straight line coming from the window, the distance between points is 1 m, the distance from the wall to the point is 60 cm;
• In a checkerboard pattern, taking into account the same rules for the placement of lamps as described above, it is effective, optimally distributes light in the room and uses spotlights as the main source of lighting;
• Along the periphery, where the main light source is a chandelier, and spotlights are located around it for additional illumination, they are installed 40 cm from the wall and at a distance of 80 cm from each other.

A combined arrangement of lamps is often used. They think about which type of lighting to use at the preparatory level, since the length of the wire and the number of connecting terminals depend on the number of light points, which are installed before covering the metal ceiling frame with sheets of plasterboard.

A combined luminaire arrangement is often used to illuminate a room.

Key points in working with wiring

The main wire used for mounting lamps is a three-core cable with copper conductors. The cross section depends on the power of the lamps used. So for a 35-46 W lamp a 3x1.5 sq. cable is suitable. mm. Powerful lamps are not used for two reasons: they consume a lot of energy and overload the cable. If the lamps are not powerful enough, a step-down transformer is connected.

The wires to the spotlights are carried out in a special corrugated pipe. It is mounted on the ceiling using plastic brackets/special metal loops, or passed through holes in metal profiles. The latter option is suitable for suspended structures of a complex type, designed for the heavy weight of a plasterboard sheet, otherwise the corrugated sleeve will put unnecessary load on the frame and compromise its integrity.

The connection of points can be serial or parallel. The first type evenly distributes the voltage between all elements of the circuit; with the second, installation is faster, but during operation, if one lighting element burns out, the rest also fail.

Connecting lamps to an electrical circuit (diagram)

Working with drywall

After the wiring is connected, the frame is covered with plasterboard. To place the lamps in the same plane as the ceiling, holes are made in the gypsum board sheet using a hammer drill/drill/screwdriver with an attachment (wood bit or milling cutter). If there is none, use a stationery knife. The main thing is not to press too hard on the surface of the sheet, otherwise it will be deformed, which will lead to damage to the material.

The locations for the holes are selected based on the location of the connecting terminals. The dimensions of these holes must match the diameter of the lamp body, otherwise the fixation of the lamps will not be reliable. This is checked based on the design of the lamp, which consists of:

• Cartridge with wires for connection;
• Terminal block;
• Lamp holder on the body;
• Housing equipped with spring fastenings;
• Lamps (sold separately).

When connecting the lamp, the spring fasteners bend. If the hole is small, the springs will not fit through it and will not open. If it is too large, the lamp housing will not hold securely after installation due to the space created between the housing and the drywall edge. Because of this, the lamp can jump out, tilt, etc. The optimal hole diameter is 68 mm (the most common size for spotlights), its size is covered by the lamp.

Lamp design

Connection steps:

• Pull the wires out of the hole made;
• Connect the cartridge wires to the terminal blocks using screws and a screwdriver;
• Using an indicator screwdriver, find in the wires inserted through the holes those that correspond to phase, neutral and ground.

If the screwdriver indicator lights up, this is a phase. Zero is detected using a test lamp (a base connected to wires, the ends of which are exposed). One end of the wire is connected to the phase and held, the second is selected from zero or ground, changing the position of the wire. If the lamp lights up when the wire touches, zero has been found. The remaining wire is grounding.

• Next, the wires from the holes are connected to the terminal block of the base;
• The spring fasteners on the lamp are bent, the lamp body is mounted;
• A lamp is inserted into the socket (it is recommended not to touch the lamp with bare hands, but to use a piece of textile, so it will not burn out);
• A fixing ring is installed in the housing fixed to the ceiling (to its inner radius), which will prevent the lamp from falling out;
• The same manipulations are carried out with the remaining spotlights.

Connecting a spotlight

All work is carried out with the electricity turned off; only after all the lamps are connected is the power supply restored to check the correctness of the connection diagram. You can find out what the installation of spotlights includes, how the wiring is connected, and what to look for when choosing them, in the video below.

Is this connection technology suitable for all lamps?

Spotlights come in different types of installation: recessed, overhead pendant, the installation of each of them is slightly different. The technology for laying wires and identifying phases remains unchanged; some nuances are observed only in the method of attaching the lamp body to the ceiling. The above described installation technology suitable for a gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling by connecting recessed lighting.

The surface-mounted/suspended method involves installing the lamp on a special rail, which is fixed to the ceiling with screws. To do this, a small hole is made on the plasterboard with a drill, through which the power cable is pulled. It is connected to the lamp wires through terminal blocks. Then the lamp is applied to the ceiling and connected to the mounting rail through the side screws.

Installation of an overhead lamp

For a stretch ceiling, it is suitable to install spotlights in special plastic rings, which are glued to both sides of the canvas to protect it from deformation. Then the installation of lighting fixtures continues, which are additionally attached to the base ceiling using hangers or on wooden planks.

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