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Chimney from sandwich pipes through the wall: installation rules and step-by-step instructions. What is the best chimney for a wooden house? Gas pipe passage through a wooden wall

Carried out during the construction of the building. But there may be situations when, after the completion of all work, it becomes necessary to install stove heating or fireplace. In such situations, it is important to know how to lead the chimney through the wall.

The location of the chimney inside the wall is more familiar and allows you to hide unnecessary communications, but outdoor installation carries many positive points:

Increased fire safety. There are times when accumulated soot ignites. It burns at a temperature of + 1200ºC. No material other than ceramics can withstand such heat. If this happens with a pipe that is embedded in the wall, then the fire cannot be avoided. If a similar situation develops with the external structure, then the consequences will not be so catastrophic.
No smoke. Over time, the exhaust system can become unusable and smoke begins to seep through the cracks and enter the room. This will not happen if the channel is outside.
Saving useful space. The internal location of the chimney implies that it will occupy a certain living space.
Possibility of installation after completion of construction.
No need to interfere with the integrity of the roofing.
The advantage of going to a higher height for improved traction.

The disadvantages include:

Significant windage at high altitudes.
The need for additional fastening material.
The importance of proper pipe insulation.
Significant heat loss.
In some cases, the view of the chimney is the style of the building.

In order to ensure sufficient draft, it is necessary to comply with several simple requirements that apply to any chimney:

It is important to know how to correctly calculate the correspondence of the channel cross-section and the power of the stove, fireplace or boiler. If the passage is narrowed, then the smoke will not have time to go out and will enter the room, because there will not be enough traction.
The optimal chimney height is considered to be 5 m. In some cases, due to the presence of buildings or other obstacles nearby, you will have to raise the channel even higher.
It is important to carefully consider the choice of material for manufacturing.
The priority will always be the round shape. It does not create turbulence, which can cause poor or reverse thrust.
If the channel is located near the roof, where there is a risk of fire, then a spark arrester must be installed. This is a metal mesh, the dimensions of which are 0.5 × 0.5 cm.
The length of the sun loungers (horizontal part) should not exceed 1 m in length. Failure to follow this rule can lead to poor cravings. Also, these areas will often become clogged due to soot build-up.
The house must have good ventilation.
It is important to provide for a moisture condenser, as well as holes through which it will be possible to clean soot. In the brick structure, special openings are left, which are closed with a brick on mortar and an additional door.
Better to avoid right angles and replace one at 90º with two at 45º.

Material selection

Today there are a large number of ready-made solutions for arranging a chimney, but some prefer to follow the proven path and do everything on their own.

Brick. A good option if you are making a chimney for an ordinary stove or fireplace. The advantage of this material is the ability to combine it with the general exterior of the building. Also, no insulation is required with the correct calculation and installation. If a sufficiently high structure is required, then it will turn out to be very overall.
Stainless pipe. It is especially relevant when acid emissions are possible. In this case, it is better if it contains molybdenum in its composition. The disadvantage will be the need for good insulation. If this is not done, too much condensation will build up and impair traction.
Double-circuit or sandwich pipes consist of two metal sleeves. One of them is placed inside the other, and the space between them is filled with insulation. They can both be made of stainless steel, or only the inner one, and the outer one is made of galvanized steel. Delivered in blocks, so assembly is straightforward. There are adapters that allow you to connect them to a branch pipe coming out of a stove or fireplace.
Ceramic tube. An excellent option that can withstand high temperatures. Also needs insulation. The downside is the rather high price and fragility of the structure.

The conclusion of the chimney through a structure of this kind is greatly facilitated, because these materials themselves are not combustible. The sequence of work will be as follows:

The location of the heater is determined.
The markup is being done.
No communications should pass through the wall. They can be damaged when holding installation works.
A hole is made using a perforator or jackhammer. It is better if it is round. This can be achieved using a special crown. If it is absent, you can outline a circle and, using a drill of a smaller diameter, drill the holes end-to-end in a circle. After that, the material located in the middle is removed.
Across wooden wall a single piece of pipe is laid. Make sure that there are no joints inside the wall. Otherwise, when they diverge, smoke can go inside. It is quite difficult to fix this.
The resulting gaps are eliminated with a special heat-resistant insulation.
Depending on how high the hole is, you need to install a support stand. If there is a short distance to the ground, then you can make a foundation for the support. To do this, a hole is dug 50 cm deep, a sand bed is made and rammed. Further, with the help of reinforcement, the crate is made and placed in the middle. Everything is poured with concrete and allowed to stand. You can immediately concrete the metal posts. Another option is wall mounting. For this, a metal frame is made from a corner. A profile from 25 × 25 mm is suitable. In the lower part, several jibs are mounted, which also abut against the wall for greater rigidity. All this is fastened with anchor bolts or HEX screws.
A tee is mounted on the base, in the lower part of which there is a condensate trap.
Next, the entire chimney structure is assembled. If it is a sandwich panel, then they are simply connected to each other and fixed with a special clamp. The stainless steel pipe must be welded together.
Wall mounting is carried out using special fasteners. The distance between them should be 60 cm, but not more than 1 m.
Make sure that the pipe joints do not fall into the clamps that secure the structure to the wall.
It is better to bypass the overhang of the roof without using horizontal sunbeds, because this will impair channel traction.
If the top of the pipe is close to the ridge, then its overhang should be at least 50 cm.
In some cases, additional braces are installed if the pipe is located at a great distance from the wall.
If the chimney is not made of sandwich panels, it must be insulated. This is done with basalt wool, which is then covered with dense foil.
A special visor is mounted on the top, which will prevent the penetration of precipitation into the middle.

The brick chimney is usually lined up against the wall to ensure its stability. In this case, it is important to correctly calculate its inner and outer dimensions. If a mistake is made, then the walls can overheat, which will lead to dire consequences. A compartment for collecting condensate is also provided in the lower part of the structure. The connection of the heating device and the brick duct is carried out using a stainless steel pipe.

The principle of installation through a wooden wall is similar to that described above, but there are some precautions that are important to observe.

A hole is made, the diameter of which must be calculated in such a way that there is a distance of at least 450 mm from the central pipe, which will be maximally heated, to the combustible material.
In order for safety to be on maximum level, it is best to use a sandwich panel for output.
The space around the pipe is filled with basalt insulation. It is very temperature resistant. The highest value reaches 1000ºC.
Provide for the presence of a gate (damper) that can be closed during the summer time or when the system is not in use.
Outside and inside, a sheet of galvanized sheet or stainless steel is stuffed, which will hold the cotton wool inside.
When fixing the pipe to the wall, a gap of 10 cm or more must be maintained to ensure fire safety.
Installation of spark arresters will be a prerequisite.

If you want not to worry at all about the fact that there will be bad traction, then you can provide for the presence of a deflector. This is a special umbrella that is installed at the top of the pipe and contributes to a greater pressure drop. There are such options that they themselves turn in the wind and the stream pulls the smoke along.

In this way, the pipe can be taken out both in the bathhouse and in the garage. Before doing all this, it is very important to make meticulous calculations so as not to miscalculate with the size and height. Don't skimp on materials. In the end, both your life and the life of your loved ones can depend on the reliability of the entire structure.

Video

How to make a chimney from sandwich pipes will be discussed in this video:

There was also a simpler option - from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that chimney sandwich pipes have appeared.

What are the advantages

Why did sandwich pipes quickly conquer the market? Simplicity of construction, consisting of an outer and an inner tube, inside filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. Special attachments at the end make it easy to install, no matter whether it is done through a roof or a wall. For production we use such a reliable material as steel. If you know all the details, or even better, watch the video instructions, then assembling such a system with your own hands will not be a problem. But you need to strictly adhere to the installation instructions and fire safety in order to avoid problems in the future.

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can lead to loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first pays off with a long service life, then the second depends only on who will be engaged in the installation.

It's important to know

Before starting the installation, you should familiarize yourself with some of the subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the area of the structure will be inside the room, the less heat loss will be. When creating a detailed diagram, take into account the fact that flat horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if wooden parts come across on the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be removed from them using special steel brackets. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or insert with a door through which it will be possible to inspect and clean soot. Of course, installing a chimney sandwich is a serious and responsible business, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly adhere to the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, a chimney is being installed through a wall of sandwich pipes. For this, measures are taken to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. It is good if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in wooden house insulating materials are indispensable. And it doesn't matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you have to do it. Such fire safety standards for log cabins.

Already at the stage of buying pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations in your hands. A low chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return inside the room, and if it is too long, it will accelerate the combustion process, and heat will go into the atmosphere. The optimal system length is considered to be in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fasteners.

It is clear that the ideal option is the passage of the pipe through the roof or wall, and it does not matter whether the construction project is taken into account. This ensures your safety. But if it didn't work out, then we are looking for a site on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to deviate from any communication of at least 40 cm, and if this is not possible, then provide additional isolation.

For different walls, their own installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger than the pipe itself, in diameter. A special drill will help create a round hole. And now, in order:

The first method: you will need several insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other;
The second option: we lead the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Walking through a brick or twin block wall does this. First, a marking is made taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problems, put a special metal frame inside. The free space near the pipe must be filled with refractory material and shields must be installed that will close the passage. The main difficulty is just to go through the wall, and then it is quite simple to assemble the structure. Collected? We fix it on the wall.

It is clear that when experienced craftsmen are installing, there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich pipe chimney through the wall: video instruction

In the foreseeable past, no one could have thought that the installation of chimneys would be within the power of everyone. And it's clear why this is so. Previously, only a stove-maker knew how to correctly create a structure from a brick of the desired shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were very much appreciated.

How to properly install a sandwich pipe chimney through a wall

In order to create the most comfortable conditions in this corner, in addition to comfort, you should take care of safety and ease of installation.

For this purpose were invented chimneys from sandwich pipes. Due to their special design, combustion products in the form of ash and soot do not settle on the pipe walls, which additionally provides protection against accidental ignition.

What is a sandwich pipe?

Sandwich pipe Is a special smoke channel made in the form of two interconnected metal pipes, which differ in diameter. In this case, a pipe of a smaller diameter is inside a larger one, and the free space between them is filled with high pressure with a special refractory material - heat-resistant basalt fiber.

The chimney itself can be represented in the form of a constructor, which is assembled from special elements - tees, clamps and branches.

Ease of assembly is ensured by clever design details. Each element has different thread sizes on both sides, due to which the parts are assembled according to the principle of sockets in sewer pipes. This connection provides the pipes with complete tightness. Clamps are used to further strengthen the connected sections.

How to properly assemble a sandwich pipe?

To begin with, the two-layer pipe is securely attached to the nozzle of the sauna stove using a starting cone.

Chimney in a sauna stove- the most simple construction, because it has no twists and additions. In most cases, this is a straight pipe coming out of the stove and going through the ceiling to the street.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney in a bath

Despite the fact that installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe with your own hands is a very simple task, feasible for a person who has nothing to do with construction, you still need to pay attention to the main subtleties of the installation. Within the framework of this article, we will consider chimney installation through the wall.

Installation takes place in an upward direction, from the stove to the roof. When assembling the chimney, the tapered end of the pipe is inserted into the previous, wider one.
The sandwich tube is never installed directly on the oven. First of all, it is better to install a single wall stainless steel pipe. This will allow you to get more heat output, while protecting other elements of the oven from overheating.
Due to the absence of soot accumulations on the walls of the chimney, condensate is easily removed from it. For this, additional tees are installed.

Tees can be freely moved along the structure along special runners. To create such a structure, you need to disassemble the chimney, fixing the landing for the brackets, and then assemble the outer bracket and attach several corners to it.

The wall should be closed with a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, and asbestos should be attached to the plywood with screws. The next layer is galvanized steel with dimensions 120 * 200 mm, also fixed with screws. In the steel sheet, carve a square recess for the pipe outlet, and insert the adapter into it. Next, use a special anti-corrosion varnish to cover the bracket.
When installing the chimney, remember to leave a part of the free space between the wall and the pipe, the so-called concession.

The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At the joints of pipes, it is necessary to use a sealing material with heat-resistant properties (withstanding temperatures up to 1000⁰C). At the end of the installation, it is imperative to clean the structure of the protective film.

For further cleaning of the chimney from soot in the body of the pipe, an audit is provided - a tee with a door on the side. It cuts directly into the pipe.

For reliable support of the chimney, you can make your own bracket from steel corners 30x50 mm. For this, a drill with a grinder and M10 bolts are useful. Instead of bolting, the bracket frame can be electrically welded together.

Conclusion

The most time-consuming stage in the process of installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe is drilling holes in the wall and sheathing the structure with insulating materials. And then, having prepared the necessary material and tools, it is enough to simply follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

How to install a sandwich pipe chimney

In recent years, more and more chimneys are made from sandwich pipes. The matter is in the relatively low price, long service life, quite attractive appearance. It is also important that independent installation of a sandwich chimney is possible. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Tinted roofing option

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multilayer structure: there are two layers of metal, between which there is a heater. This structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple chimney from a metal pipe. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures; no hard radiation emanates from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created in the room. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensate that forms when the pipe is taken out into the street. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer at such a high temperature, it is easier to make the passage of the chimney through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation

What materials are they made of

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Is that for the removal of combustion products of a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are unsuitable for more serious heating devices - at high temperatures zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, the chimney becomes unusable.

High temperature flue gas sandwich pipes are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a low content of alloying metals to high-alloy heat-resistant ones. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope of application will be different, and so will the price.

As you can see from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, while the more heat-resistant and expensive alloys are used for the inner. This is necessary to reduce the cost of production, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Outwardly, these products lose to stainless, but they serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

There is insulation between the two layers of metal. Most often it is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation is from 30 to 100 mm:

With thermal insulation 30 mm thick, the flue gas temperature should not exceed 250 ° C. Such temperatures are given only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
Insulation layer of 50 mm allows to withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C. Scope - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-burning, subject to the output of the chimney to the street (through the wall).
A 100 mm rock wool layer can withstand temperatures up to 850 ° C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, you need to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can work. Not every stone wool can withstand heating up to 850 ° C, but only some special grades. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the thermal resistance of the insulation.

A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled

Connection types

The elements of the chimney sandwich can be interconnected in two ways: with sockets and corrugated edges. A socket connection assumes a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of chimney tightness is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers where it is important to prevent leakage. There is also a minus: installation requires high precision.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows for hassle-free assembly of the chimney. The disadvantage of this solution is that a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required to ensure tightness, and it costs a lot.

Features of chimney sandwich pipes

You should also pay attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so as not to burn out alloyed metals). It is this type of connection that is required for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, a folded joint can also be used.

Installation methods

There are two ways to lead the chimney outside. The first is to pass the pipe through the wall, and then raise it along the outer wall to the required level. The second is upward through the ceiling and roof. Both are imperfect.

If the chimney is outside, due to the temperature difference, condensation is actively formed in it. Therefore, in the lower part of the chimney, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed. This unit allows maintenance of the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed, the condensate is drained. Also, soot periodically gets lost without any problems - a special brush for the chimney can be run through the cleaning hole.

An approximate diagram of the passage of the chimney through the wall and roof

If the chimney is to be removed through the roof, several passages will be needed - according to the number of overlaps. If the house is one-story, you will need one pass through the ceiling and the other through the roof. You will also need a master flash or an apron for a round galvanized pipe.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one pass-through unit - through the wall. But it will be necessary to fix it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are flammable (a wooden house or a frame), the walls must be protected with a non-combustible screen.

Smoke or condensation

Types of sandwich pipe assembly

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to one another. If the wider end turns upward (in the figure to the right), the assembly is called "over condensate". With this method of installation, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that if the joints are not properly sealed, smoke can seep into microcracks. This type of installation of a sandwich chimney is used when the pipe is led out through the wall. This is where the free drainage of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not scary - they are not critical on the street.

If a narrower edge is turned upwards, the second element is put on top of it with a wider part. This type of assembly is called "smoke" (in the picture on the left). In this case, condensate flowing down the wall can seep through an insufficiently sealed joint. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (out through the roof). Condensate flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, with good sealing of the joints, condensation will not leak.

In order for the connection of the chimney sandwich modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant, and then tightened with a clamp.

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before going to the store, you need to know the required chimney diameter, pipe height and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of the sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet. If your outlet is 120 mm, then the inner diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but less - definitely not, and the narrowing cannot be done along the entire length of the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the branch pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly on the boiler outlet, and then the working size is already going.

If there is no boiler yet, but you know its capacity, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

boiler power up to 3.5 kW - inner diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - not less than 95 mm;
more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it is better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on the chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider to improve draft.

Installation of a sandwich chimney begins with determining the diameter

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the surface of the roof depends on the place of its outlet, but at the same time its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case bring the chimney to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above roofing material to the following height:

Should rise 50 cm above the ridge if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the level of the ridge, but the angle should be no more than 10 ° (see figure).
If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height can be at the same level with the ridge element or higher.

Under these conditions, normal thrust is ensured. The smoke will go off normally regardless of the weather conditions. To prevent foliage from entering the chimney, they put special umbrellas, weather vans, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve traction.

Sandwich chimney pipe height

If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they put a smoke exhauster - a forced draft is obtained. The fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, forced draft saves the day.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

There are two ways to run the chimney through the wall. The first option (in the photo on the left) is to raise it in the room closer to the ceiling, and bring it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the flue pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney is outside.

How can a sandwich chimney run through a wall

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means, under equal conditions, the traction will be better. Also, with such a structure, there is less chance of the formation of soot plugs.

If the outlet of the smoke pipe is not behind the stove, but on top, the installation diagram changes slightly - a 90 ° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then as in other diagrams.

The stove itself is placed on a non-combustible base, the wall behind the stove is closed with a non-combustible screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal on the wall. It can be mounted on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be an air gap between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall is safe. The second option is to put a heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

Preparation of the place for the installation of the furnace and the PPU installed in the wall with a piece of pipe

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm from all sides, and 450 mm to combustible walls. It turns out to be a solid hole, especially when it comes to walls made of combustible materials. There is one point with which you can reduce the size of the hole for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the norms of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as the fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.

This is how a pipe passage through a wall, sealed with a sheet of metal, looks like

A pass-through unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. A sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it, fixed in the center. All gaps are filled with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. This is usually a sheet of metal.

From the side of the room, a pass-through node is inserted. In this case, it is made of minerite, but it can also be metallic

One important point: the chimney must be designed so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and maintainable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will hold the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

A similar structure can be welded from shaped pipe small section 25 * 25 mm or 25 * 40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that goes through the wall. In the lower part there is a removable glass in which condensate accumulates. Some models have a fitting at the bottom with a small tap. It is even more convenient - you do not need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, bring it into some container (it is very toxic, so you don’t need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Then the tube is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will obviously be more than 3 m, it is possible for the chimney height to be slightly lower than the ridge - not lower than 10 ° in relation to the horizontal line drawn from the ridge level.

Remove the chimney, preferably above the ridge

But since this house is located in a lowland, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge to provide traction. It was fastened to the wall with stainless steel clamps, with a step of a little more than a meter. On the roof, there are braces made of a steel rod with a diameter of 6 mm. There are special clamps "with ears" to install the stretch marks, to which the stretch marks are attached.

Fastening of braces to the chimney from a sandwich tube

Another important point that many people forget: at the place where the pipe is installed, a section of the snow guard must be installed on the roof, otherwise, in the spring, the pipe can be demolished with snow (if the pipe is not brought out towards the pediment, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When removing the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to guess so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the fuel element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the fuel element is protected by a heater. To fulfill this requirement, the pipe often has to be displaced. Do this using two 45 ° angles.

Offset of the pipe to pass through the ceiling slab

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. In the photo above, it is black. After it, an adapter is placed on a sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire standards - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by thermal insulation material. Having cut out the hole, its edges are closed with non-combustible heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (nailed or fastened with self-tapping screws on wood).

Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite

A chimney sandwich pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. It cannot be rigidly fixed, you can only give direction by installing several planks that will hold it, but it can move up / down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated, its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay, granulated foamed glass. Previously, sand was still poured, but sooner or later, it all woke up through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this "beauty" is covered with a sheet of stainless steel, under which (between it and the ceiling) non-combustible material is placed. Previously, it was an asbestos sheet, but since asbestos is recognized as a carcinogen, they began to use mineral wool cardboard.

There is another option. Trim the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-walk-through assembly. It immediately contains both a box and a decorative stainless steel screen.

Ready-made ceiling duct assembly (one of the options)

Having brought the pipe to the attic, they make a hole in the roofing cake. All films in the place of passage (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. So the damage is minimal. The exposed crate is cut so that the pipe is at least 13 cm.

How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In an amicable way, you need to cut them off according to the standard, beat them with the same minerite. You should get something similar to the following photo.

Correct passage of the sandwich chimney through the roof

Master-flash for a sandwich chimney - a rubber cap with a flexible "skirt"

The rubber-pipe joint is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. Also, the roof surface under the "skirt" is coated with a sealant.

Trumpet-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Do-it-yourself installation of a sandwich chimney: into the wall, through the roof

In order for the independent installation of a sandwich chimney to be correct and safe, you need to know the rules and fire regulations. How to bring a sandwich pipe through a wall, read the roof in the article.

Read in the article

The likelihood of a significant increase in pressure in the channel provides for enhanced closure of the joints with specially designed couplings. It is advisable to cover joints on steel pipes with heat-resistant sealants. Complete insulation of the chimney contributes to the correct draft.

Sandwich panels with excellent insulating characteristics do not exclude the possibility of overheating and, possibly, ignition of materials located near the chimney. To prevent such a situation, it is recommended to increase the thermal insulation layer at the joints of the structure.

With a proper understanding of the chimney device and compliance with the main safety rules, fixing it is quite simple. Per correct installation proper maintenance of the chimney must be observed, including regular cleaning. This will serve as a kind of "prevention" of accidents during the operation of the ovens.

Ceiling Passage Rules

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling must be made in accordance with the rules to ensure the safety of the entire house. In this area, the proximity to flammable materials is minimal, so insulation should be maximized. Certain rules also depend on the materials from which the chimney is made.

Chimney passage through wooden floor

We will analyze how to lead a chimney through a wooden floor, what distance and width is required. In this area, the brick chimney must have thicker walls than in other places. It should be 50 cm when there is no additional insulation, and the pipe borders on materials that can easily ignite. If there is a plaster with a thickness of at least 25 mm, then a width of 38 cm is allowed.The height of this cut above the floor must be at least 70 cm.

Between the building structure and the groove in the chimney opening through the wooden ceiling, it is imperative to fill the space with non-combustible materials. On each side, the thickness must be at least 15 cm. Metal chimneys through wooden coverings must have a passage through sleeves made of non-combustible materials.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

How can a sandwich chimney run through a wall

Preparation of the place for the installation of the furnace and the PPU installed in the wall with a piece of pipe

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as the fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.

This is how a pipe passage through a wall, sealed with a sheet of metal, looks like

From the side of the room, a pass-through node is inserted. In this case, it is made of minerite, but it can also be metallic

One important point: the chimney must be designed so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and maintainable.

Homemade support platform for an outdoor chimney sandwich from 50 * 50 mm and 40 * 40 mm corners DIY support platform from a perforated corner U-shaped metal profile construction

A similar structure can be welded from a profile pipe of a small section of 25 * 25 mm or 25 * 40 mm.

Remove the chimney, preferably above the ridge

Fastening of braces to the chimney from a sandwich tube

Organization of a node through the walls of a house or bath

Today, sandwich chimney installation is practiced in two main ways: inside the house or down the street. Indeed, more and more often you can see that chimneys are mounted directly through the wall to the street, and from the first floor - and from there they are already directed vertically upward. And this has its own meaning: this way the chimney cools down much faster and does not pass through fireproof ceilings and the roof. On the other hand, the chimney that rises through the attic usually serves as an additional heating element. But the risk of fire here, of course, will already be higher.

Surprisingly, the stainless steel outer casing of the sandwich is not far from the temperature of a single-circuit chimney. Indeed, in fact, such a chimney was originally designed to improve draft, and therefore the gases that come out of the stove usually have a temperature of 800 degrees Celsius, and the outer casing is capable of heating up to 300 degrees! And this is far from a fireproof surface.

A modern sandwich chimney is led out both through the roof and directly through the walls of a residential building:

You can see the node in more detail in this illustration:

So, organize correct angle the passage of the sandwich chimney through the walls will help you with the following step-by-step instructions:

Step 1. Before starting work, be sure to calculate the length of the horizontal sandwich pipe that will need to be passed through the wall. And also consider the tee that you will be installing. Calculate the slope of the roof so that the chimney does not get too close to the eaves.
Step 2. Fill the box that you insert into the wall with non-combustible basalt material.
Step 3. Close the lead-through assembly with a lid so that the basalt cardboard gasket remains visible.
Step 4. Close the edges of such a knot cover with a casing from the components of the exterior decoration of the house, for example, siding.
Step 5. Seal the edges of the box with a colorless roofing sealant.
Step 6. Install a revision at the exit from the chimney from the wall.
Step 7. Secure the chimney with special wall brackets, one for each 1.5-2 meters.
Step 8. So, after you have installed the pipe, check its verticality using a level.
Step 9. Be sure to make sure that the seam is turned towards the house.

After all, the most important rule is as follows: the chimney passage through the wall of a house or bath must be protected from fire as much as possible. Here's a good example of such a node:

In order for the horizontal element of the sandwich chimney to be installed securely, it must be correctly supported with a metal corner:

Special designs will also help to fix such a chimney to the wall in a strictly vertical position:

Believe me, at this stage the work is not over yet, especially if your chimney has a complex design (which we highly do not recommend to you):

Ceramic chimneys

When making an internal chimney, the following requirements are imposed on it:

Ceramic pipe device

the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams, if laying between the pipe and the overlap of asbestos sheets in two layers is provided - 250 mm, without asbestos laying - 380 mm.
in the presence of asbestos insulation, the distance from the pipe to the wooden wall is taken to be 250 mm or more; if insulation is not provided, the distance is taken to be at least 380 mm.
when using mineral wool for insulation, the distance from the pipe to the rafters is taken at least 130 mm;
when using easily combustible materials - 260 mm;
for the roofing at the points of contact with the pipe, materials that are resistant to high temperatures (steel, ceramic roof tiles, slate). If materials such as bitumen are used flexible shingles, it is necessary to prevent its contact with the pipe. The distance from the bituminous coating to the chimney in the plan must be at least 50 cm.

All the requirements described above are relevant for the manufacture of an internal chimney, but sometimes it is better to choose an external outlet. It avoids complications and increases the safety of the structure, since the combustion products cannot enter the room.

Combustion products are immediately discharged to the outside

This installation is only suitable if the boiler is located directly on an external wall. The design will not allow the execution of an extended horizontal section. The advantages of using it include the attractive appearance of the building. This option is best suited for boilers for liquid and gaseous fuels. The downside of the design will be the increased formation of condensate, which leads to the sedimentation of substances on the walls that destroy the pipe.

The external chimney is made in the same way as the internal one, but it is necessary to provide for the insulation of its walls in contact with cold air. The thickness of the insulation is up to 10 cm and is assigned depending on the climatic features of the area

It is important that in most cases the pipe will still pass through the roofing, so it is worth following the recommendations for internal leads. In the lower part, a hole is provided for checking and cleaning, and a drip is installed

A separate foundation or support ledge under the house will have to be made under the brick pipe.

It is worth considering the following masonry requirements:

provision of dressings;
production from ceramic solid bricks on lime (cement-lime) mortar inside the house;
after withdrawal through the roof, the masonry is performed on cement mortar;
the thickness of the seams should not exceed 10 mm;
plastering the inner surface of the pipe is prohibited.

Benefits of external placement

More recently, the only possible option for the location of the chimney was the internal one. This option allows you to make the most of the heat coming from the pipe. However, it has significant disadvantages, the biggest of which is its low fire safety and bulkiness. An external chimney, in which the passage of the pipe is made through the wall, has the following advantages:

External chimney with a passage through the wall

Compactness. It does not take up space inside the bath, therefore it can be used in the smallest structures. This plus is especially relevant for brick chimneys, since they take up a lot of space.
Fire safety. In contrast, the placement of the chimney inside the bath, external, according to the assurances of experts, is more fireproof. This quality is very important for structures with such a high fire risk.
Convenience of assembly. Due to the fact that during the installation process, only 1 passage through the wall is equipped, the installation of an external one, without resorting to expensive services of professional craftsmen.

Note! The harsh Russian climate is a difficult test for external ones, since the large difference between external and internal temperatures in the pipe causes condensation to appear. When the pipe is taken out through the wall, most of the chimney is laid outside the bath, therefore, the efficiency of the stove decreases, and fuel consumption increases.

To remove these negative aspects characteristic of external smoke exhaust channels, thermal insulation is performed or special sandwich systems are used.

Chimneys, the passage of which is carried out through the wall, do not have a vertical configuration, since they are laid with 1-2 turns. Such a device reduces the traction force inside the pipe, interfering with the normal operation of the furnace. To avoid such a situation, pipes of a larger diameter are used for do-it-yourself installation.

Wood wall

The principle of installation through a wooden wall is similar to that described above, but there are some precautions that are important to observe. ... A hole is made, the diameter of which must be calculated in such a way that there is a distance of at least 450 mm from the central pipe, which will be maximally heated, to the combustible material.
The space around the pipe is filled with basalt insulation

It is very temperature resistant. The highest value reaches 1000ºC.

A hole is made, the diameter of which must be calculated in such a way that there is a distance of at least 450 mm from the central pipe, which will be maximally heated, to the combustible material.
In order for safety to be at the maximum level, it is best to use sandwich panels for the output.
The space around the pipe is filled with basalt insulation. It is very temperature resistant. The highest value reaches 1000ºC.
Provide for the presence of a gate (damper) that can be closed during the summer time or when the system is not in use.
Outside and inside, a sheet of galvanized sheet or stainless steel is stuffed, which will hold the cotton wool inside.
When fixing the pipe to the wall, a gap of 10 cm or more must be maintained to ensure fire safety.
Installation of spark arresters will be a prerequisite.

Sandwich pipes

If you want not to worry at all about the fact that there will be bad traction, then you can provide for the presence of a deflector. This is a special umbrella that is installed at the top of the pipe and contributes to a greater pressure drop. There are such options that they themselves turn in the wind and the stream pulls the smoke along.

Street wall chimney

In this way, the pipe can be brought out both in the bath and in. Before doing all this, it is very important to make meticulous calculations so as not to miscalculate with the size and height. Don't skimp on materials. In the end, both your life and the life of your loved ones can depend on the reliability of the entire structure.

The fixing of the chimney to the wall always starts from the heating equipment. In order to select the correct diameter of the chimney pipe, it is necessary to study the recommendations of the manufacturer of the boiler or fireplace.

In this case, the following characteristics should be taken into account:

boiler power affects the diameter of the chimney;
in addition to a drop in power, a short chimney can cause smoke to the interior;
at the same time, a long chimney tends to "force" heating equipment... Thus, energy costs will rise significantly, and heating efficiency may drop.

Connect the heating device to the chimney using a special transition or connecting element - a tee, pipe or elbow.

Let's take an example. Suppose that the house is already completely ready, and there is already a heating boiler inside. Thus, it is no longer advisable to install a classic internal chimney - the costs of passing through the floors and the roof will be colossal. Therefore, in this situation, the best solution would be to remove the chimney through the wall. To do this, it is enough to build an external chimney, and it is connected to the boiler with a horizontal pipe. It should be remembered that the length of this transition should not exceed 1 meter. Otherwise, the chimney draft is significantly reduced. If a situation arises when it is structurally impossible to fulfill this recommendation, then it is necessary to compensate for the draft by increasing the height of the chimney.

To organize a single-circuit system, an enamelled or stainless steel pipe is used. Such a chimney is characterized by ease of installation and much lower cost.

The double-circuit system is made according to the principle of "pipe in pipe", while thermal insulation is laid between their surfaces. This system is more practical, as it has greater protection against external damage and does not form condensation. Due to these properties, such a system has found wide application in construction. wooden houses.

How to make a chimney through a wall

For independent work, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

clamps and corners;
aluminum tape;
high temperature resistant sealant;
riveter;
drill and drill;
Bulgarian.

Outside wall chimney - main elements

The most important element is a heating device - a boiler, stove, chimney, which directly affects the main parameters of the chimney. To be able to regulate the movement of smoke, it is necessary to implement elbows. The connecting bends must have the specified smoke deflection angle.

The branch parts are connected to each other using a tungsten electrode. Depending on the design and length of the chimney, the number of elements can be completely different. At this stage of work, viewing windows and dampers are installed. If desired, the dampers can be installed in transitions, bends or pipes. It is much more important to remember here that the dampers are installed so that they do not come into contact with the pipe walls. Otherwise, high temperatures can cause the damper to jam.

You will also need a tee stand. A square section stainless steel chimney is used. Fix the stand to the wall using dowels

In this case, special attention should be paid to the distance between the wall and the chimney.

The chimney outlet through the wall is mounted using stainless steel tees, using thermal insulation. These elements allow you to connect the heater to the chimney

In the future, tees will be used for condensate drainage, cleaning and revision of chimney elements.

Condensate drain pipes or inspection windows are installed at the bottom or side of the tee. After collecting all the elements, the window door is seated on silicone. The tees themselves can be solid, prefabricated or straight through. Depending on the type, they are connected at different angles.

For correct installation chimney brackets should be used. You can create them yourself. For this they take

Since it is important to comply with the requirements of fire regulations, at this stage it is important to correctly observe the distance from the wall to the chimney.

The external chimney must be covered with a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, the pipe is placed in a special casing

Basalt fiber (in a simple way - mineral wool) can serve as a heat-insulating material. The casing is made of stainless steel, galvanized steel or other corrosion-resistant materials.

Choosing the type of chimney

The choice of material and design of the chimney is determined by the architecture of the house, as well as by the features of the heating units that will be connected to the smoke exhaust system. So, for example, the temperature of the flue gases of a pellet boiler rarely exceeds 250 degrees, and the temperature of the flue gases of a coal-fired boiler can reach 700 degrees Celsius. Obviously, much more stringent requirements are imposed on the chimney for a coal boiler.

Brick chimneys

Brick chimneys are common in older homes, where the stove and chimney were often built earlier than the building itself. Brick is not as popular today, but many homeowners choose it.

Advantages of brick chimneys:

high mechanical strength;
relative durability;
attractive appearance.

Disadvantages of brick chimneys:

heavy weight;
rectangular section (not ideal in terms of traction force);
rough surface;
sensitive to strong acids and aggressive chemical compounds;
the complexity of installation and maintenance.

For the installation of chimneys, red solid brick is used. Masonry inside the house is performed using lime or cement-lime mortars. For laying bricks above the level of the roof, only waterproof cement mortar is suitable.

Ceramic chimneys

Ceramic chimneys are an excellent alternative to bulky brick structures and rather short-lived sheet steel chimneys. They are widely used in modern houses from rounded logs, beams and other wood materials.

The advantages of ceramic chimneys

mechanical strength;
good traction;
ease of installation;
the ability to install both inside and outside the building;
resistance to aggressive compounds;
resistance to high temperatures (up to 1000 degrees);
exceptional durability (manufacturers' warranty for many systems is 30 years or more);
high-quality thermal insulation.

The latter should be discussed separately. In the overwhelming majority of cases, ceramic chimneys have a three-component structure. Each element includes a piece of ceramic pipe with a smooth inner surface, thermal insulation mats and a box made of lightweight concrete... Thus, even with the passage of very hot fuel gases, the outer concrete casing practically does not heat up

This is very important for installing chimneys in wooden houses.

There is only one drawback of ceramic flue systems - high price.

Metal chimneys

Distinguish between one-component and two-component metal chimneys.

One-piece chimneys consist of simple steel pipes with a circular cross-section. This is the cheapest solution, but it has many disadvantages:

low durability;
large heat loss;
impossibility of outdoor installation;
the need to create complex and expensive thermal insulation.

The latter is especially important in the case of wooden houses. Thermal insulation is used literally wherever even the slightest heating is possible. This applies to any chimney, but in the case of thin steel pipes, this is especially important.

The two-piece chimney (sandwich steel chimney) has its own thermal insulation layer, which is located between the two steel pipes. This is a more expensive, durable and safer option. Such a chimney can be used, including for outdoor installation, which allows you not to go through all the ceilings and the roof, but to make one pass through the wall at the installation point of the heating unit ().

Advantages and disadvantages

When removing the chimney through the wall, one can note the appearance of some positive aspects in this design:

Saving internal space.
The possibility of equipping the channel even after the completion of the construction of the house.
Installation, assembly of such structures is much easier than similar ones inside the structures.
High fire safety. After all, the inner walls can reach temperatures of more than 1000 degrees, inside the room this is a huge minus, unlike the street, where you can not pay attention to such temperatures.
Over time, even the most sealed and high-quality chimneys begin to pass carbon monoxide through the cracks and cracks formed in the walls.
In the event of any problems with the draft, it is possible to adjust the chimney pipe without damaging and violating the integrity of the passages.

Disadvantages concerning, including the installation of a sandwich chimney:

Mandatory insulation (except for the "sandwich").
The external channel, in some cases, requires the removal of the necessary "piece" of land.
Heat escapes from external systems into the atmosphere, when an additional source of heating could be organized inside the house.
It is difficult to match the structure to the design of the building.
With high channel sizes, the fastening system can become a problem, from high windage.

How to install a chimney through the roof

Offset of the pipe to pass through the ceiling slab

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. In the photo above, she is black.

After it, an adapter is placed on a sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite

Ready-made ceiling duct assembly (one of the options)

How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof

Correct passage of the sandwich chimney through the roof

Master-flash for a sandwich chimney - a rubber cap with a flexible "skirt"

The rubber-pipe joint is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. Also, the roof surface under the "skirt" is coated with a sealant.

Trumpet-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Material selection

Finishing elements of sandwich pipes

Today there are a large number of ready-made solutions for arranging a chimney, but some prefer to follow the proven path and do everything on their own.

Brick. A good option if you are making a chimney for an ordinary stove or fireplace. The advantage of this material is the ability to combine it with the general exterior of the building. Also, no insulation is required with the correct calculation and installation. If a sufficiently high structure is required, then it will turn out to be very overall.
Stainless pipe. It is especially relevant when acid emissions are possible. In this case, it is better if it contains molybdenum in its composition. The disadvantage will be the need for good insulation. If this is not done, too much condensation will build up and impair traction.
Double-circuit or consist of two metal sleeves. One of them is placed inside the other, and the space between them is filled with insulation. They can both be made of stainless steel, or only the inner one, and the outer one is made of galvanized steel. Delivered in blocks, so assembly is straightforward. There are adapters that allow you to connect them to a branch pipe coming out of a stove or fireplace.
Ceramic tube. An excellent option that can withstand high temperatures. Also needs insulation. The downside is the rather high price and fragility of the structure.

Design features

Despite the huge selection of materials for the construction of chimneys, the most widespread today are double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich".

The "sandwich" type chimney is a two-layer construction. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and insulation.

Video: Chimney from sandwich pipes

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made of steel 0.5 mm thick, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and the best technical characteristics... For the installation of a chimney outside the building, it is not recommended to use single-circuit pipes. Indeed, due to only one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to the sharp temperature drop in such a chimney, condensation forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

Double-circuit sandwich pipe device

Therefore, for the installation of a chimney through the wall, the most optimal option would be to purchase a sandwich pipe. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to a brick chimney, an attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

External chimney we choose a method, prepare the elements

Passage through the wall can be done in two ways - single-circuit and double-circuit .

The first is irrelevant in the case of a sandwich construction.- it is used if they want to reduce the cost of do-it-yourself installation by installing a conventional enameled steel pipe. You can find a video with a detailed explanation of how to make such a chimney correctly on the Internet.
Double-circuit (aka internal) method- a more acceptable option for output through the wall. in which the main part of the chimney "goes" into the wall through which the passage is carried out, and the pipe itself is insulated thermal insulation materials... This is the “sandwich version”, sufficiently well protected from mechanical influences, plus, in the case of the double-circuit method, a gate valve must be installed, with its help the owner of the heating boiler and the external chimney can regulate the draft.

What to prepare for installing a sandwich chimney with your own hands?

Firstly, pipes, and plus to them - tees, with the help of which you can branch the smoke channel, and then connect the chimney to the furnace of the heater.
Secondly, the knee (without it, you cannot bend to the desired degree).
Thirdly, the support console (the basis for the design of the external chimney) and clamps (do not forget about the need to fix the structure to the wall at an optimal distance of 60 cm).
Fourth, the revision tee, condensate collector and mouth - it will complete the design.

Wall passage: from the boiler and beyond The outlet of the external chimney starts from the inside - from the heating boiler / fireplace / stove: the chimney is attached to the pipe of the heating device, secured with a plug - and goes further, to the place of passage through the wall.

Where the chimney will exit to the outside depends on many factors, but best option- from the side of the pediment. If it does not fold with it, and installation is possible only from the side of the roof slope, you should take care of preparing the support post. But first, measure the roof overhang - if it exceeds 40 cm, the stand is not needed: the pipe can be simply put through the overhang when fastening the structure, this will serve as an additional means of fixation. Above the place where the chimney outlet will be, you need to strengthen the snow holder.

The main stages of assembling an external chimney with your own hands:

mark the outlet, prepare a hole for the through-pipe;
fix the branch pipe in the prepared hole, insulate (you can use foil mineral wool);
Connect the chimney to the heating device: an elbow in three sections is joined with a tee (a transition element is used).

To change the direction of the chimney, you will need a tee with a cleaning glass - then (all also with your own hands) it will be easy to dismantle it in order to clean it. The tee with a glass is fixed with a bracket.

How is a chimney carried out through a wooden wall Installation of a steel chimney pipe Assembly and installation of a sandwich chimney
Chimney in the bath through the ceiling

Pros and cons of installing an external chimney

The chimney located in the wall, of course, is more familiar to our eyes and does not attract the attention of others. But at the same time, it also has its drawbacks, which are more than covered by an external hood.

The installation of an attached external chimney significantly increases the fire safety of the room. After all, everyone knows that over time, soot deposits accumulate in the pipe, which, with high heating, can flare up no worse than gasoline. At the same time, during its combustion, temperatures arise that only ceramics can withstand. Therefore, the external chimney is the safest in this regard.
Minimization of possible smoke pollution. At the right device of the chimney of this sample, the part of its outlet channel located inside the room is negligible, and therefore the probability of exhaust gases entering the room tends to zero.
Possibility of arrangement without disturbing the roofing and installation in an already finished building (I know from practice that not many want to "perforate" the roof).
Simple increase in thrust due to free choice of pipe height.

Certain disadvantages of this design include only the need for the right choice fasteners for its reliable fixation, the likelihood of strong windage when climbing to a great height and a possible violation of the general style of the building.

Functionality and design features

The range of the optimal chimney length is 5 - 10 meters. A value below the minimum value makes it difficult to pull, and a pipe longer than the designated 10 meters will provoke excessive combustion, increasing fuel consumption.

Chimney through the wall to the street

Since the smoothness of the internal planes of the chimney allows to increase its durability, due to the insignificant accumulation of soot, more and more consumers choose a single-layer steel pipe, which successfully replaces brick counterparts. The installation of the chimney is facilitated if it is used modern design from two nested steel pipes with an insulating layer of stone wool between them.

Such a system has proven its practicality, since negative condensation does not form inside, and the outer surfaces receive slight heating.

Making a chimney outlet through the wall with its further installation outside the house, it is necessary to think over the design of the protective box. It is advisable to make it brick, or use drywall, supplemented with refractory thermal insulation.

Three-layer chimneys, the inner cylindrical pipe of which is made of ceramics followed by a heat-insulating layer and external blocks made of lightweight concrete, also show high performance.

Chimney selection

Before you lead the chimney through the wall, you need to decide what type of chimney device you are going to use.

There are many variations on the market, but not all of them are suitable for installation for wooden house... Among the most demanded systems, two should be highlighted.

Single wall chimney systems. They are made of galvanized sheet or stainless steel. Single-wall systems have one significant advantage - an affordable price. This option is well suited for inexpensive country houses or summer cottages. But if you have invested a considerable amount in houses, then it is better to abandon this idea, since single-wall steel chimneys do not have a long service life. In addition, it will be necessary to organize highly effective thermal insulation. In addition to metal pipes, single-wall systems are often made from ceramic and polymer analogs. But their cost is higher.
Double-walled chimneys. Double-walled chimneys or sandwich systems are the optimal solution for a wooden house. The design feature is low thermal conductivity and layering. The device of a double-walled chimney includes two pipes of different diameters, which are located inside each other, and a heat-insulating material that fills the intermediate space between the pipes. When choosing a similar device for a private house, purchase a mandatory one with a mom-dad connection. Flanged designs are available commercially, but are more suitable for industrial applications.

In order to perform the installation correctly, using single-wall or double-wall chimney systems, follow some recommendations. Your main reference point is the instruction for the heating equipment, for which you are going to organize the chimney with your own hands.

Make markings on the wall, guided by the level of the outlet from the heating boiler or stove.
According to the markings, a hole is made in the wall. Moreover, its diameter should be one and a half times the diameter of the chimney channel. This is required so that between the chimney and wooden wall install a through glass.
A branch pipe is inserted into the resulting hole. One end of it is mounted on heating equipment, and the other goes to a tee. The T-piece is an irreplaceable thing for efficient condensate drainage.
A void is formed in the space between the wall of the wooden house and the branch pipe, which is filled with heat-insulating material.
A sheet metal casing is mounted on top of the insulation.
A tee is already fixed on the branch pipe, with outside which the pipe is installed, directed vertically.
If the roof is gable, the pipe should reach the ridge. If the roof is flat, the end of the flue pipe will rise above it by at least 50 centimeters.
Never install the chimney close to the walls of a wooden house. The distance between the elements is at least 20 centimeters. Use the mounting brackets to achieve the desired distance.

It is not difficult to pass chimney ducts through the walls of a wooden house, if you correctly execute the passage, use effective thermal insulation materials and apply a chimney of appropriate quality. Installation is often done by hand.

Be sure to read these materials:

- Connecting the stove to the chimney
- Connecting the boiler to the chimney
- Boiler manual Proterm

Basic rules for installing chimneys

TOpluses include the following features

- great savings in space inside the dwelling,
- the likelihood of installation in an already residential building,
- elimination of the requirements for providing overlaps between floors, since the installation of the chimney is much easier.

The disadvantages include

- organization of obligatory thermal insulation of chimney pipes,
- the presence of a large horizontal section at the place where the chimney passes through the wall,
- such a chimney gives off a lot of heat to the external environment,
- often it cannot effectively fit into the architectural solution of the building

fireplace, stove

- first you need to understand the rated power of the device. usually this indicator depends on the diameter of the chimney,
- after that, it is necessary to calculate the height of the chimney, which should ensure the optimal draft of the heating device. If you choose too small a distance from the exhaust pipe to the end of the chimney, the hearth will not be able to work at full capacity - among other things, a short chimney, incorrectly selected, will cause smoke to the home,
- a chimney that is too long will not be able to ensure a long combustion of fuel and, as a result, will increase fuel costs, because a strong draft will affect the unnecessary removal of heat into the atmosphere.

SINGLE-CIRCUIT CHIMNEYDOUBLE-CIRCUIT CHIMNEY

Materials and tools for self-assembly of an external chimney

heating stove chimney

Bulgarian,
drill with a set of drills,
riveter,
heat-resistant sealant,
aluminum tape,
clamps and angles for fixing the branch pipe.

The main elements of the external chimney

what elements and parts are used to install an outdoor chimney system

- of course, first of all, it is the hearth itself or the heating system in the form of a boiler,
- in order to regulate the circulation of flue gases, special plumb lines are used, which must have a suitable angle of deflection of the smoke,
- a tungsten electrode is used to weld the outlet elements. In general, we do not stipulate the number of taps, since each chimney requires a different number of them,
- during the installation of the chimney, inspection windows and dampers are also installed in tees, bends, pipes and transitions. These elements are applied at the request of the owners of the outbreaks,
- the dampers must be installed so that they do not come into contact with the pipe material, since when expanding under the influence of high temperatures, the damper can jam,
- among other things, you may need a tee stand, which can be made from stainless square tube. Dowels are used to fix the stand. The stand must be carried out following the requirements. So, between the chimney and the wall of the house, the required distance should be observed,
- the chimney will be led out through the wall of the house using special heat-insulated tees made of stainless steel. Such tees are used to connect the heating device to the chimney. Subsequently, during the operation of the hearth, the tees will be intended for cleaning, revising and draining condensate,
- if you explain in more detail the arrangement of the elements of the chimney system, such as pipes for draining condensate and windows for inspection, it should be said separately about their installation. Typically, these components are mounted either at the bottom of the tee, or on the side. After complete assembly of the equipment in accordance with fire safety requirements, the inspection window door must be fixed with a special silicone. Since the options for tees can be very diverse, then their connection should be made at different angles,
- the implementation of the chimney system is carried out using brackets. Such a device can be made by oneself for which stainless steel tubes are used. During installation, you must comply with the norms and requirements prescribed in special sections of the relevant documents. You should be especially careful when calculating the distance from the chimney to the wall of the house, since during the operation of the heating device condensation may form, the outer layer requires high-quality thermal insulation. Thus, the chimney is placed in a special protective casing. Basalt fiber is used as a material for insulation of the device. The casing is made of galvanized steel, stainless steel or some other materials,
- in some cases, conducting an external chimney through the wall of the house requires the use of additional reinforcements, they will help to organize a passage glass, as well as so that the device can withstand the load.

Basic installation steps

When carrying out the work on installing your chimney through the wall, you need to remember important rules and installation steps. You should adhere to the sequence so as not to forget anything and to do everything right. So, install the chimney, steps:

Check if there are communications in the places of passage through the wall.
Mark out and prepare a hole of the required diameter.
Install a "pipe", which you carefully seal and heat insulate from the wall, with a special fire-resistant material. A special cover can be installed on top.
The pipe is connected to the boiler, stove by means of a three-end "elbow". The lower part is obligatory, with the help of this outlet it will be possible to carry out cleaning.
The outer section of the second "knee" behind the wall must be fixed, it is important to remember that the horizontal planes should not exceed one meter.
Further, the installation of the vertical part is carried out. Pay attention to the fastening, use only high quality fasteners.

Chimney diagram

After the entire vertical part has been erected, you need to know how to install the head, the so-called cone-shaped cover, which will improve traction and protect the channel from clogging. Depending on the type of channel, you will need to insulate and insulate the space between the wall and the pipe.

Fire protection first of all

Stove or boiler - it doesn't matter

It also doesn't matter how your chimney goes and what it is made of, in general - it doesn't matter! The most important thing is the thermal protection of your premises, because a stove or boiler costs 1000 or 2000 dollars, and the whole structure costs tens, or even 20 times more. Therefore, the main thing is to figure out how to secure the structure and what is thermal protection.

The most difficult question is how to ensure that the made passage of the pipe through the outer wall does not pose a fire hazard.

Expanded clay is an excellent material for isolating the space in the place of the pipe passage

Where we are planning to lay the chimney, it is necessary to cut a fairly wide (at least 25 cm from the pipe) wooden hole in the wall, which is closed on both sides with a special metal flange. It looks neat both from the outside and from the inside, but it weighs very little, because the metal sheet is not at all thick. Having closed the transition with the chimney opening from the side of the boiler (with inside), we fix the metal flange from the side of the room, and then we clog the part that remains between the inner and outer flange with non-combustible material. The best stuffing is made of basalt wool or expanded clay. Then we close the structure with a flange from the outside and mount the chimney down the street. The protective sleeve must be fixed very securely, on self-tapping screws or anchors, around the entire perimeter.

In the markets, you can see two pass-through nodes - round and square. And many are interested in what is the difference between them. Except for their form - absolutely none. For any pass-through node, you will need to cut out the same square, both in the wall and in the ceiling. And inside the box you will have a chimney. The space is filled with mineral wool, expanded clay, basalt fiber or other refractory materials, but not with brick, and even less with sand. You may have seen how coffee is made in the Turks on the sand. So it can get so hot that water is boiled on it, and this is not the limit.

Types of chimneys and their features

Chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bathhouse must be made of various refractory materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, strength and aesthetics, but at the same time, the porous and heterogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture, the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the lumen of the chimney becomes overgrown, the draft deteriorates, and the operation of the furnace becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and baths, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they get very hot and quickly burn out, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such a pipe are mounted in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are ineffective, as they are prone to corrosion and condensation.

The most successful solution is insulated sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics. The circular cross-section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and provides good draft. Less soot settles on the smooth inner surface. Due to the insulation, the formation of condensation is excluded. Thanks to the modular system, their installation is easy to do with your own hands. Structurally, sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics are somewhat different.

Ceramic sandwich chimney is a system of modules, each of which consists of an inner ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation, they are separated by a layer of basalt insulation. Modules are delivered disassembled; assembly is performed on site using special glue and sealant. To install a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required due to their significant weight.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys sold as ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one inside the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer one can be either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They are collected much faster than ceramic ones. In addition, due to its low weight, a foundation is not needed for a stainless steel chimney.

In terms of fire resistance, ceramic chimneys are superior to all others, they can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time, some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is advisable only in residential buildings, cottages and other capital buildings.

Brick chimney in a wooden house

The traditional material for making chimneys in wooden houses is refractory bricks.

When laying chimneys, it is necessary to pay special attention to the binding of bricks to each other. To connect the elements of a brick chimney in the interior of a house, you can use a mixture of cement and limestone, but when laying bricks in a chimney in an open space, clean cement mortar should be used

The thickness of the seam between the bricks in such masonry should not exceed one centimeter. At the same time, the brick should be red and not hollow.

The inner surface of a brick chimney is exposed to aggressive effects of combustion products, condensate. As a result, chips and collapses can occur on the inner surfaces. To avoid such negative moments, an asbestos-cement pipe is placed inside the brick chimney, and the space between the brick and the pipe is filled with concrete. Thus, you will carry out the so-called "sleeve" of the chimney. "

Chimney passage through a wooden floor

The figure given in the article shows how you can run a chimney through a wooden ceiling.

You can use asbestos layers when passing the floor. In this case, the distance between the pipe and the floor tree will be 25 centimeters.

In the event that an asbestos gasket is not used, then the distance between the pipe and the tree will have to be increased to 38 centimeters.

Adjoining chimneys to wooden walls

As well as when passing through a ceiling - when adjacent to wooden walls - chimney pipes must be reliably insulated.

adjoining the chimney to a wooden wall

The standards here are the same as when passing through the ceiling: 25 centimeters when using two layers of asbestos gasket and 38 centimeters in the absence of a gasket.

The entire structure can be laid with brickwork from the sides.

If you are installing a chimney in a new, not yet settled log house, then it is better to place it on a wooden board that can move relative to the wall. In this case, the subsidence of the log house over time will not lead to the destruction of the brickwork of the chimney and pipe.

Chimney passage through the roof of a wooden house

When removing the chimney through the roof, the distance between its heating elements and the rafters should not be less than 13 centimeters. A heat insulator must be installed in the gap between the pipe and the rafter tree. Basalt wool can be used in its capacity. When choosing wool for thermal insulation, make sure that it is free of organic binders and that it is resistant to high temperatures.

chimney passage through the roof

If materials with a low ignition threshold are used as a roof on the roof, for example, sheet roofing material, then the distance to it should not be less than 25 centimeters. The space between the combustible material and the chimney must be covered with a fireproof roof. Slate can serve as such a protective material. It will not transfer heat from the pipe to the roofing felt. Roofing steel can also be used as a protective coating.

The location of the chimney on the roof of a wooden building

The chimney head on the roof of a wooden building should rise above it to a height of at least 20 centimeters from the top of the ridge if the chimney is located directly next to the ridge or just on a flat roof.

If the chimney is less than one and a half meters from the ridge, then its height should also not be less than 50 centimeters.

If the chimney is located at a distance of one and a half to three meters from the ridge, then its head should not be below the level of the ridge.

pipe height above the roof

In the event that your chimney is more than three meters from the ridge, then to calculate the height of the chimney head, you must draw an imaginary line directed from the ridge of the roof with a decrease of 10 degrees.

Chimney assembly and outlet through the wall

Before starting installation work, you should prepare a complete set of parts that are part of the structure to be equipped. It should consist of the following standard components:

a set of pipes and connecting elements (tees, in particular) necessary for branching the chimney and its output to the outside;
the so-called "elbows", through which it is possible to form the bend of the pipe branch at the desired angle (its value is usually indicated in the name of this workpiece);
fixing support console, by means of which the structure is fixed to the walls (with a set of special clamps);
special inspection (revision) tee, simultaneously used to clean the channel from soot;
moisture (condensate) collector built into the chimney.

If necessary, additional inspection windows and control dampers are introduced into the structure.

Before installing the chimney through the wall, make sure that the angle of its connection to the wall is exactly 90 degrees (a pre-prepared square can be used for this purpose). At the same time, it will be necessary to take the dimensions of all the blanks and apply a markup at the point where the pipe is exited through the wall, which sets the location and diameter of the hole under it.

All further operations are carried out in the following sequence:

First, in accordance with the markings, a round hole is made in the wooden wall, corresponding to the diameter of the selected pipe blank (with a small margin for insulation).
Then a horizontal branch is laid through it, going directly from the heater.
A layer of thermal insulation is mounted on top of the outlet workpiece, which is optimal for these conditions, and the hole itself is closed on the inside with a special protective casing.

Important
The passage of a sandwich pipe through the wall is also subject to mandatory thermal insulation.

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The vertical part of the outlet channel is attached to the laid horizontal pipe at an angle of 90 degrees from the outside, the tees of which are fixed with support brackets, and the joints are fixed with clamps.
A condensation tank is mounted on the lower side of the tee, and the main branch duct is fixed to the wall by means of the same clamps and brackets located at a distance of no more than 60 cm from one another.

Experts also advise to organize the insulation of the pipes to be laid from the outer surface of the walls of the building (by means of basalt mineral insulation, for example). This technique is usually used when laying chimneys in buildings made of wood materials.

In conclusion, we note that users often ask themselves the following question: how to get the pipe out of the bath through the wall and are there any special requirements for this procedure?

The answer to this question is quite simple. In a bathhouse, the chimney outlet is arranged in exactly the same way, however, in this case, increased requirements are imposed on its insulation, namely:

the opening for the branch duct is protected by special non-combustible materials (fire retardant fabric, for example);
in addition, this section of the wall is upholstered with metal sheets that protect the wood material from excessive overheating and fire.

All other steps for laying the chimney in the bath are similar to those already described earlier.

There are times when it is not possible to remove the chimney in the usual way - through the roof, and then you have to equip the chimney through the wall. In order for the chimney to function as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to choose the most suitable pipes under the boiler, carry out a high-quality installation of the chimney, and, if necessary, insulate it.

Brick chimneys, which were once very popular, are losing their relevance, and today they are increasingly used. These products are easy to install and cheap. Their surface is smooth; there is no need to insulate these pipes.

Advantages and disadvantages of a chimney through the wall

By carrying out a chimney outlet through the wall, you will receive the following advantages:

the chimney protrudes almost completely into the street, and does not go through the whole house;
you can carry out installation of the product both at the very stage of construction, and after the house is erected, for example, when installing the heating system;
you do not have to make holes in the ceilings when the boiler is located on the first floor of a building, several floors high;
the integrity of the roof is preserved;
when assembling and installing the chimney through the wall, there will be no particular difficulties.

Chimney through the wall in a wooden house

Despite the large number of advantages, the design also has disadvantages and must be taken into account:

A prerequisite for installing a chimney through the wall is.
Inside or outside the house, a sufficiently large horizontal section will need to be allocated for such a chimney.
According to experts, the external gas outlet pipe has low productivity.
It is unlikely that the product will fit the design of the room, so you have to get confused here.

Chimney device through the wall

Installation

Before proceeding directly with the installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures, including the calculation of the boiler power, the determination optimal diameter pipes, as well as the thickness of the insulating layer.

It is very important that the value of the diameter of the inner pipe is not less than the diameter of the pipe on the boiler. The boiler is selected based on the criterion of the volume to be heated, and only after that the constituent elements for the chimney are selected for it.

If the diameter of the pipe is larger than the diameter of the nozzle, then an adapter must be placed in the middle of them.

When installing pipes of a certain diameter, it is necessary to take into account the power indicators of the heater. So, for boilers with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the pipe diameter should be 8 cm, for equipment with a power of 3.5 to 5.2 kW, pipes with a diameter of 9-11 cm are needed, for products with a power of 5.2 kW - the diameter of the pipes must be greater than 11 cm.

The thickness must also be taken into account. heat-insulating layer. At an operating temperature of 250 ° C, like a gas boiler, the basalt layer should be at least 3 cm.

For wood and oil boilers with an operating temperature of 400 ° C - already 5 cm.

Chimney installation

There are two ways to carry out the chimney outlet through the wall:

Pipes inside the room must be raised a short distance from the ceiling, where they are brought out to the street.
From the boiler nozzle, pipes are immediately laid horizontally through the wall. The advantage of this method is that fewer elbows are formed, and this has a positive effect on the performance of the chimney.

It is possible to assemble a sandwich pipe when installing the vertical part of the chimney in two variations - "by smoke" or "by condensate".

Chimney assembly "by smoke" and "by condensate"

When installing a pipe through smoke, gas and combustion products move upward, but here you will have to face such a negative moment as the formation of condensate that accumulates in the pipe. This method has gained popularity in cases where the chimney is collected through the roof. Here, almost the entire pipe is located in the house, and not much condensation is formed.

Condensate installation is an installation method in which the pipe is directed upward with its expanded end.

With this assembly, the condensate simply flows down the pipe into the glass. The disadvantage of this method is that smoke can leak out if the joints are poorly sealed.

Condensate assembly is used when the chimney passes through the wall: in this case, the condensate is directed into the glass, and the smoke comes out of the joints on the street. This will not affect the well-being and health of the residents of the house.

Basic installation rules

In order for the functioning of the chimney to be as efficient as possible, during the installation process it is necessary to observe a number of rules and recommendations on which not only the performance of the installation, but also safety will depend.

Basic requirements for installing a chimney through a wall:

It is important that the pipe rises above the ridge, at least 50 cm, and preferably 100 cm. The traction force depends on this. The traction force directly depends on this.
The total length of the vertical part of the pipe should ideally be 5-10 meters, if the pipe is at a greater distance, then the thrust will be too strong and the fuel will burn out very quickly. If the length of the pipe is not enough, then the thrust, on the contrary, will be weak, and, accordingly, the operation of the heater will not be very effective.
To prevent the heat insulator from melting, the first segment of the chimney must consist of a single-circuit pipe. It is necessary to make a joint with the sandwich pipe, while maintaining a distance sufficient to prevent overheating of the fasteners during operation.
The boiler must be placed on a sheet of metal. Insulating the wall from the boiler is done in the same way. For wooden houses, according to SNiP, it is necessary that the boiler and chimney be located at a distance of at least 45 cm from building elements that can catch fire, and 25 cm from parts made of low-combustible materials. So that the outlet for the pipe is not too large, the wood must be sheathed with metal, in which case the outlet may not be 45, but 25 cm.
A metal box must be placed in the finished hole through which the pipe is passed, and without any connections, because, if necessary, access to them will be very difficult. The cavities in the wall must be filled with heat-insulating material, which is not afraid of burning.
Next, you need to sew up the pipe hole from the outside and from the inside. For this, a metal sheet is used.
Then, using brackets, you need to fix the support platform for the chimney outside the building, and a tee should be placed on the outlet section of the pipe. The bottom of the pipe is removable, it has the shape of a glass and condensate, which is formed during the combustion of fuel, gets into it. Often, the glass is equipped with a tap and a drain hose. Condensate is toxic, so it is best to drain it away from home.
The chimney at the top is also attached by means of brackets, which are located at a distance of no more than a meter from one another. To protect against precipitation, a cap is put on top of the pipe.
For high-quality sealing of the joints, they must be coated with a heat-resistant sealant, after which the joint section must be tightened with a clamp.

Insulation of the external chimney

As already noted, the most optimal chimney option is the use of a sandwich pipe, which is not only easy to install, it also does not require additional insulation.

If it is used for smoke extraction, then you need to mount it in a box, where the distance between the walls of the box and the pipe is filled with a basalt heat insulator. Also, foil or other non-combustible material can be used as insulation, but the pipe must be covered with a dense layer of heat-insulating non-combustible material on top.

Summing up all of the above, it is worth saying that it is quite simple to install a chimney through a wall. If you follow the installation technology exactly, then this procedure will not take much of your time and effort, and the heating device will delight you with its efficiency and good traction.

The need to install the chimney not in the traditional way - through the roof, but horizontally - through the wall, is usually due to the forgetfulness of the owner of the house: the dwelling has already been erected according to all the rules of wooden architecture, and no one thought in advance about where and how the chimney would pass.

"Smoke through the wall": pros and cons

Conditional horizontal has its own advantages and disadvantages for its "author". And in order to understand all the subtleties of the process, it is better to watch the special training video first... And you need to know in advance the following:

Consequently - output through the wall will not require violation of the integrity of interfloor floors and / or roof.

These are the pluses. And what about the cons

Pipes of the "street" chimney must be present.
Not inside, so outside the dwelling under the chimney installed externally, you will have to select a fairly solid horizontal section.
Experts note that the external gas outlet pipe has a relatively low efficiency.
We'll have to think carefully about how to combine the design of this device with the exterior design of the building.

Strictly by the rules
Before taking on the output of the chimney through the wall of a wooden building, you should learn several important rules, which cannot be ignored in any case:

Determine immediately what diameter you need the external chimney pipe- this parameter depends on the power of the heating boiler in the house, but other characteristics must also be taken into account. An incorrect calculation can lead to one of two negative results: too high fuel consumption or internal smoke of the heated room.
No communication! Nothing should interfere with the passage.
Geometry is in the first place: when removing the chimney, an angle of 90 ° must be observed, i.e. if you have already taken up the installation of a smoke exhaust pipe with your own hands, make sure to install the next structural element perpendicular to the previous one.

Read also: We lay out the chimney made of brick

Observe the distances! The structure is fixed to the wall of the building at equal distances. The optimal gap is 60 cm, the permissible maximum is 100 cm.

The place where the chimney passes through the wall must be secured- close with a protective casing or (experts believe that this is more correct) plaster, first filling the empty space, for example, with basalt fiber (or other heat-insulating material).

The right decision

You can, of course, complicate your life and start making a brick outdoor chimney with your own hands. But modern amateur stove-makers still prefer more pragmatic and easy-to-install material- sandwich pipes.

A beginner can also correctly lead a structure of two pipes of different diameters through the wall, between which the manufacturer placed a layer of thermal insulation (usually we are talking about basalt fiber). Especially considering that this material is produced in various configurations and sizes - for every taste.

Pros of a sandwich chimney:

The use of stainless steel practically guarantees a long service life.
This design does not weigh too much, and the weight is important characteristic during installation.
The sandwich has "nice looks."

Important! You should always pay attention to the quality of materials - the higher it is, the more reliable your "work". Most suitable option in order to lead a chimney through the wall, fire-resistant steel and galvanized metal. With them, strength and resistance to high temperatures are ensured.

Installation requirements to be observed:

tightness of connections
Fire safety

External chimney: choose a method, prepare the elements

Passage through the wall can be done in two ways - single-circuit and double-circuit.

The first is irrelevant in the case of a sandwich construction.- it is used if they want to reduce the cost of do-it-yourself installation by installing a conventional enameled steel pipe. You can find a video with a detailed explanation of how to make such a chimney correctly on the Internet.
Double-circuit (aka internal) method- a more acceptable version of the outlet through the wall, in which the main part of the flue gas outlet "goes" into the wall through which the passage is made, and the pipe itself is insulated with heat-insulating materials. This is the "sandwich version", sufficiently well protected from mechanical influences, plus, with the double-circuit method, a valve must be installed, with its help the owner of the heating boiler and the external chimney can.