High-quality insulation and finishing of the facade of the house guarantee significant savings in thermal energy, which is especially important in the context of a constant rise in the cost of energy resources. In addition, the complex implementation of works makes the house more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. There are different methods of warming and decorating buildings, but the wet facade is considered the most modern: the technology of this finishing method is described in detail in this article.

Wet insulation of facadesoutside or inside: features of choice

Traditional building materials used for the construction of walls, such as brick, wall and concrete blocks, are characterized by increased strength and a fairly long service life. At the same time, they do not have a high level of thermal insulation, and therefore a significant part of the thermal energy simply escapes through the walls. In order to prevent this undesirable process, the walls are insulated.

Warming can be both internal and external. At the same time, the amount of material, the amount of work and the very organization of the process inside the house are more profitable and cheaper. At the same time, there are a number of serious arguments in favor of warming the house from the outside.

External methods, which include wet facade insulation, suggest the presence of the so-called dew point - this is the zone where condensate is released under conditions of temperature differences both in the middle of the room and outside. In the case of fastening insulation on the inside bearing wall there is a high probability of condensation, which leads to high humidity in room. Therefore, this method of thermal insulation is less functional and even dangerous to health, since against the background of dampness, fungi and mold appear on the walls.

With external thermal insulation, the level of heat resistance or thermal inertia of the walls increases significantly. In other words, a building that is insulated from the outside retains heat for a longer time with a significant decrease in temperature outside and slowly heats up in the summer heat.

With external insulation of the house, a wet facade eliminates all kinds of cold bridges, through which, in most cases, the main heat loss occurs in the case of arranging internal thermal insulation.

What is a wet facade:technology features

The external method of facade insulation has its own classification. There are dry and wet technologies. The first option, in turn, includes prefabricated or hinged facades. The main material used in this technology is vinyl or metal siding. A wet facade system is considered to be more practical, highly efficient, economical and attractive in appearance.

Important! A distinctive feature of a wet façade is its multi-layered nature, where each individual layer plays an important role in the process of insulation and decoration. To fully realize the functions, preference should be given only to high-quality materials.

The use of the wet technique makes it possible to obtain not only good quality insulation, but beautiful decor Houses. Important condition- The use of high-quality special solutions. The final stage is the process of applying plaster and painting - these are key components of the beautiful appearance of the building.

Wet facade technology involves the creation of a multilayer cake on the outside. The layers are fastened to the wall by applying special adhesive solutions, mastics and plasters, which are dissolved in ordinary water. Hence the name - wet facade. The work involves observing a clear order of priority in applying the layers: primer, adhesive mixture, heat-insulating boards, additional sizing, mesh reinforcement, plastering and painting.

Each phase involving the use of the wet method, be it gluing, plastering or painting, must be carried out at a temperature above +5 °C. Not only the quality of work and the degree of thermal insulation, but also the service life of the decorative insulation depend on the sequence of work, materials and compliance with the conditions. Otherwise, the facade will soon begin to crack and collapse.

Wet facade: pros and consoutdoor insulation technology

Wet insulation technology has a number of undeniable advantages and a certain number of disadvantages. The benefits include:

• a high degree of decorativeness and attractiveness of the facade;
• the lightness of the heat-insulating layer, which allows the technology to be applied to buildings with weak foundations;
• reliable thermal insulation that keeps heat in the house for a long time according to the principle of a thermos and excludes the appearance of "cold bridges";
• additional protection of the house from destructive atmospheric influences (moisture, freezing, wind);
• reliable sound and vibration isolation;
• durability (a facade made using wet technology can last up to 40 years);

• eliminates the appearance of condensate and, as a result, dampness in the house, which occurs due to the “breathing” external plaster;
• the cost of a wet facade is acceptable, especially in comparison with other methods of insulation;
• technology does not "steal" usable space in the room.

Speaking about the pros, we should also mention the disadvantages that this methodology has:

• work should be carried out under optimal temperature conditions outside (if the temperature is below +5 ° C, then reach desired result almost impossible);
• each layer requires a certain time to dry, so unforeseen precipitation can adversely affect the quality of insulation in the end;
• the ingress of dust and dirt during operation also adversely affects the result, so the surface should be protected from wind.

Useful advice! Insulation work on a building with a wet facade must not be carried out during rainy seasons. Therefore, it is better to plan installation for spring or summer, when there is much less precipitation.

Wet facade technology: step by step instructions

Based on the above advantages and disadvantages, the conclusion suggests itself that this technology allows you to create high-quality thermal insulation, subject to minimal financial investments. The main principle is a clear phasing in the application of all layers. The work execution technology includes three or four stages of wet facade formation. The photos clearly demonstrate this. Each of the layers fulfills its functional purpose.

layer of plaster	Main works	Executable function
Adhesive or preparatory	Preparing the base, installing fasteners and priming with glue	Determines the degree of reliability of fastening of the future structure
heat insulating	Fastening thermal insulation boards with glue and dowels	Provides a degree of insulation of the walls of the building
reinforcing	Includes installation of reinforcing mesh	Ensures the strength and reliability of the structure and serves as the basis for the final finishing layer
Decorative	Applying decorative plaster in a variety of ways and painting	Protects thermal insulation boards from weathering and ensures the external beauty of the walls

All stages perform a number of important functions that ensure the overall reliability, strength and durability of the structure, so each of them requires a responsible approach and detailed study.

Wet facade: installation technologypreparatory phase

Before starting work on insulation, care should be taken to prepare the base. To this end, the walls are thoroughly cleaned and all defects are eliminated. It is necessary to cover the cracks with mortar and level the surface. If the surface is heavily soiled, it is recommended to use detergents.

Next, the surface is tested for strength. To do this, small pieces of insulation are glued to the wall. If they hold securely and do not break into pieces, then you can proceed with the installation. If they are easily torn off together with the top layer of the wall, then the stripping should be carried out again.

After the wall is fully prepared, a primer is applied to it. And after drying - a layer of glue. If the surface of the house consists of a material with increased absorption, then the soil layer should be more solid. It's better to apply it twice. Old plaster from window and door slopes is recommended to be removed in advance.

At the preparatory stage, you should take care of installing the profile bar. The plinth profile will contribute to the uniform distribution of the load from the thermal insulation boards and protect the lower row of insulation from moisture.

Useful advice! The smooth flow of the process can be ensured by a special kit for facade insulation, sold in construction stores. The adhesive mixture for the wet facade ceresit has proven itself well.

The profile is mounted at a level of approximately 35-40 cm from the ground with a three-millimeter gap between the planks placed horizontally, in case expansion occurs under the influence of temperatures. The profile is attached directly to dowels or self-tapping screws. Their number depends on the density and weight of the selected material for thermal insulation. Most often they are placed at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

Thermal insulation stage for a wet facade: work sequence

Installation of the heat-insulating layer is one of the main stages, as it is the fastening of the insulation boards. The process itself requires a clear sequence and the implementation of a number of rules.

Applying glue to the board surface. The adhesive solution is distributed along the perimeter of the material with a wide strip, retreating from the edge of approximately 3 cm. In the middle, the adhesive is distributed dotted. The main thing is that more than 40% of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plate is covered with the adhesive mixture. If lamella mats serve as a heat-insulating layer, then the adhesive solution must be applied over the entire surface.

Slab laying. Wet facade insulation technology involves the installation of a heater "on the run" by analogy brickwork. In this case, the tiles should be pressed tightly against each other and against the wall. Adhesive that has come out must be removed immediately. The laying process takes place from the bottom up, starting from the basement profile. It will take 3-4 days for the glue to dry completely.

Fixing plates with dowels. At the next stage, the heat-insulating layer should be additionally fixed with dowels. Their length should be selected based on the thickness of the insulation layer, the adhesive solution and the margin for recessing into the wall. If the degree of insulation density for a wet facade is high, then 5 cm is enough for a recess, for porous materials this figure should reach 8-9 cm. 7 to 15 dowels will be needed per 1 m² of surface. Their number depends on the density of the heat-insulating plates, the diameter of the fasteners and the height of the insulation.

Even before installing the dowel, a nest is prepared under it. If properly fastened, the clamping sleeves will be placed close to the insulation.

Wet facade: technologylaying the reinforcing layer

The reinforced base is necessary to ensure a reliable level of adhesion of decorative plaster over the insulation. For this purpose, a special mesh is attached to the adhesive base, sinking it into the middle. The installation of the reinforcing layer begins at least two days after the application of the heat-insulating layer.

Useful advice! For strengthening, it is recommended to use an alkali-resistant mesh made of fiberglass, having reliable coverage. Otherwise, after a year, the reinforcing layer will begin to collapse, and the plaster will simply crumble.

First, the mesh is attached to the corner slopes in the openings of windows and doors, as well as at the junction of vertical slopes and lintels. Then they go to the corners of the building from the outside, and in the end - to the rest of the sections.

Related article:

The choice of the type of insulation. Features of materials, their advantages and disadvantages. The main stages of installation of insulation.

The process itself is the application of a layer of special glue. Then a special reinforcing fiberglass mesh is gradually gently recessed into it. It is overlapped, which ensures the formation of a reliable reinforced base. Excess material is cut off. The total thickness of the reinforcing layer should be a maximum of 6 mm, while the mesh itself is located two millimeters from the surface of the insulation.

When creating a wet facade on buildings with increased loads or on basement floors, it is necessary to use a reinforced armored mesh that can withstand higher loads. It is the reinforcing layer that plays a big role in the strength of the entire structure. It provides the wall resistance to atmospheric and mechanical influences. It is equally important that the mesh resist the alkaline effects of the aggressive components contained in the plaster solution.

Wet facade plaster:decorative layer technology

The finishing layer plays a dual role, as it is responsible for the external attractiveness of the walls and at the same time serves as a protection of the heat-insulating layer from external negative influences. At the same time, the plaster must have a certain porosity in order to pass excessive condensate, providing a "breath" to the wall.

Decorative finishing is the final phase in the installation process, performed using the wet facade technology. The plaster begins to be applied only after the complete drying of the reinforcing layer. This will take about a week. At the same time, in addition to high decorative qualities, the plastered surface must meet a number of requirements:

• have a high degree of vapor permeability;
• be resistant to atmospheric influences in the form of rain, snow, fog and other precipitation, as well as to the influence of direct sunlight;
• have high resistance to mechanical damage.

In order for the plaster to easily lay on the insulation, the plates must fit snugly against each other. Permissible error - maximum 3 mm. Otherwise, the next two layers will not be able to mask the flaws, which will affect the appearance of the entire structure. You will either have to apply a very thick layer of plaster, or put up with bumps. This fact indicates that it is necessary to select high-quality materials, as well as to use a special plaster mix - for outdoor work.

Useful advice! The quality of work and the durability of the plaster service is affected by compliance with temperature regime. As in the case of fixing boards, the working mixture must be applied at a temperature of at least +5°C. The maximum indicator is +30 ° C, since excessive exposure to sunlight can adversely affect the quality of the plaster.

Species diversity of plaster finishing wet facade

The final stage in the complex of works on the creation of the facade by the wet method is the application of the plaster layer. A variety of methods are used to organize the thermal insulation layer. decorative finishes, the main ones are discussed below.

Mineral plaster. The material is a binding mixture, the basis of which is Portland cement. The main advantage of this type of coating is a high level of strength and vapor permeability. Finishing of this type is resistant to moisture, does not dampen and does not collapse. The next advantage is the affordable price. The disadvantages include a narrow choice of colors.

Silicate plaster is a kind of mineral, as it contains. It is well suited for decorating aerated concrete and foam block walls, as well as for use as part of the wet facade technology, since it has high level vapor permeability. However, it should be noted that before applying it, it will be necessary to cover the surface with a layer of a special primer.

Acrylic plaster basically contains resin in the form of an aqueous dispersion. The positive qualities of the material are elasticity and a high degree of adhesion to different surfaces. Acrylic is applied in a thin layer to avoid cracking. reinforced mesh fiberglass, treated with sealant.

Silicone plaster has a number of unique properties, it is very flexible and viscous. Even if the building sags, the wall covered with a silicone layer will not crack. This finish is presented in a wide range color scheme and has the property of self-cleaning. Thus, the wall itself under the influence of precipitation will be cleaned of dust and dirt.

The basis of the wet facade: materials for work

Having examined in detail all the stages of work, the novice master will be able to evaluate his strength in terms of independent installation of a wet facade with insulation. If a positive decision is made, then care should be taken to have a complete arsenal of materials and tools. The list below will take into account all the details. So, this technology assumes the presence of basic materials:

1. Thermal insulation boards as a base material require a special approach in the selection. It is necessary to calculate in advance the thickness of the plates, on which the degree of thermal insulation depends, and to study the characteristics of different heaters.
2. The base profile is selected taking into account the width and thickness of the selected heat-insulating boards. The number is calculated based on the size of the building.
3. Wet facade mesh, which serves as a reinforcement of the entire structure, is most often a rolled fiberglass material. For buildings with a large load, more reliable grids are used.
4. Wet façade adhesive is used to fix the slabs. Select it in accordance with the selected insulation.
5. Decorative plaster is applied at the final stage. You can use ready-made formulations.

Useful advice! In the choice of materials for the manufacture of a wet facade, they are primarily guided by the qualities and characteristics of the selected insulation. For example, mineral wool glue is not suitable for fixing foam boards and vice versa.

Additional materials for creating a wet facade with your own hands

The above list of materials is considered basic, but far from exhaustive. If you do not take care of purchasing a complete set before making a wet facade, then a number of inconveniences and difficulties may arise in the process of project implementation.

The primer is applied at the preparatory stage in order to ensure better adhesion of the plates and the wall. The type of primer is selected in accordance with the type of decorative plaster.

The composition for plastering the protective and reinforced layers is applied directly to the insulation, although it is often confused with decorative plaster. These are different compositions - and this should be taken into account. One of the main differences is the higher price of plaster for finishing.

The paint is intended for decorating walls and serves as a certain protection against atmospheric influences. Do not neglect this material and save on it.

A necessary component are mushroom-shaped dowels. It would seem a trifle, but without them reliable fixation of the plates will not be ensured. Therefore, you should take care of their acquisition in advance.

Dowels for fixing the plinth are a separate element, very important even at the preparatory stage. The length of the dowel-nails depends on the material of the wall where the profile is attached. During the installation of the plinth, you should also take care of the presence of special elements for connecting at bends and in corners.

In order to purchase a complete set, manufacturers offer complete systems, which already include all necessary materials and tools for creating a wet facade. At the same time, not every set takes into account the individual needs of the owners, and therefore, when buying such sets, you need to be careful.

Tools needed for wall insulation with a wet facade

The list of tools for performing work using wet facade technology should include almost the entire arsenal of an experienced builder and a number of special devices that will greatly facilitate and speed up the process. In particular, you will need:

• a square required for marking right angles and angles of 45 °;
• building level, designed to determine the degree of deviation of parts from surfaces in a horizontal or vertical direction;
• tape measure for measuring the length and width of various materials;
• metalwork hammer, designed to work with different materials;
• saw with fine teeth for cutting foam materials;
• construction mixer for mixing dry building mixtures of sand, plaster, glue, putty;
• rollers for priming at different stages and for painting the finishing layer of decorative plaster;
• swiss trowels used to cover the surface with various mixtures and to smooth them;
• trowel with teeth, used for gluing and fixing by "embedding" the reinforcing layer;

• a simple plastic trowel for applying putty and plaster compositions;
• trowel for convenient mixing of the solution;
• spatulas and trowels of various sizes;
• cutter for deepening the dowels when attaching the plates to the wall;
• sealant gun.

Useful advice! The acquisition of tools should be taken care of at the preparatory stage. This list is maximum and extensive, but it is possible that additional tools may be needed in the process of work.

Wet facade insulation: variety of materials and features of choice

Facade heaters are divided into two large groups - products made of expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. Foam materials are lightweight, quick installation and a high level of thermal protection. The main drawback of the material is its combustibility. Mineral wool for a wet facade is much more expensive, while being more reliable in terms of its performance. Plates made of this material do not burn, have a high level of vapor permeability.

The density of mineral wool for a wet façade must be at least 150 kg/m³, and the tensile strength must be at least 15 kPa. It is recommended to give preference in choosing to basalt fiber slabs. As for the foam, for insulation work, you should choose a special-purpose material with low flammability. Experts do not advise in this area to use extruded polystyrene foam, which has low vapor permeable characteristics and has poor adhesion to the adhesive solution.

IN different conditions various types of insulation boards are used. The choice is guided by physical and chemical characteristics insulation, based on its specific purpose. In addition, each group of insulation has its own classification.

Mineral wool for wet facade: materials for manufacturing and their advantages

So, mineral wool slabs are the best suited for finishing facades. This advantage is due to a number of specific positive characteristics:

• durability;

• fire resistance;
• excellent vapor permeability;
• high level of heat and sound insulation;
• resistance to chemical and biological substances;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

In addition, certain types of wool, in particular products based on phenolic binders, are characterized by a high level of moisture resistance. The most preferred are diabase or basalt wool slabs for a wet facade. The price of such a heater is much higher than other analogues, but this is the case when they pay for quality.

Since the strength of mineral wool should start from 15 kPa, and the material itself should not react with plaster, the use of fiberglass boards in this area is impractical. This is due to the fact that such mineral wool is easily destroyed in an alkaline environment and does not have sufficient tear strength.

Fiberglass boards will begin to crumble under the influence of alkalis, which are contained in the base reinforced layer and adhesive solution. The pH level of these materials averages 12.5. The corresponding reaction does not begin immediately, but after a couple of years. Destruction occurs especially intensively under the influence of strong winds. Thus, a wet facade made of fiberglass boards will become unusable very quickly.

Additional qualities as criteria for choosing a mineral insulation for a wet facade

An important indicator in the choice of thermal insulation boards is the coefficient of moisture absorption. It is desirable that its level be at around 15%, since moisture absorbed into the material will lead to its inevitable deformation and adversely affect thermal conductivity. Slabs with a high degree of moisture absorption do not provide the required level of solidity of the facade. As a result, such a design will not last more than two years.

Useful advice! The density index of the wet facade mineral wool should range from 150 to 180 kg / m³. Otherwise, the process of applying the finishing layer becomes more complicated and there is a risk of delamination of the entire thermal insulation coating of the facade.

The technology of a wet facade on mineral wool involves the selection of plates in such a way that the degree of vapor permeability from the first (preparatory) to the last (decorative) layer gradually increases. Compliance with this requirement will provide favorable conditions and prevent condensation in the middle of the structure. In the climatic conditions of Russia, most of the time throughout the year, the temperature inside the houses is much higher than outside. These conditions greatly increase the likelihood of condensation.

Wet foam facade: material features and requirements for its choice

Another group of heaters also has a certain list of positive qualities, the main raw material in the production of which is expanded polystyrene. It should be noted here:

• low cost;
• lightness of the material;
• high thermal and sound insulation;
• vapor permeability;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

The list of shortcomings of foam boards significantly exceeds the similar characteristics of mineral wool. The main disadvantage is the flammability of the material. In order to eliminate this shortcoming, manufacturers treat the insulation with special chemicals - fire retardants. Thus, even in the event of a fire, the spread of fire will be suspended, that is, the flame can die out by itself.

Fire safety is also provided by special inserts made of non-combustible materials, in particular from mineral wool. The use of this method led to the emergence of a separate combined material.

Among other disadvantages of the material is a low degree of biosecurity. Insects and even rodents can settle in the foam. Also, expanded polystyrene plates are more fragile, which creates certain problems during installation, and less wear-resistant in operation.

Requirements for polystyrene boards for wet facade: price and quality

Before you buy a material for a wet facade made of expanded polystyrene, you should study its characteristics and compliance with all requirements. It must have a tensile strength of at least 100 kPa and a density between 15 and 25 kg/m³.

Useful advice! The choice of material in accordance with all requirements for it and its correct installation with strict observance of the technology of the device of a wet facade on a heater, its service life is guaranteed for 20-30 years. Repair of the decorative layer will have to be done a little more often, but the costs will be much less.

Quality material can be determined even by external data. Insulation granules should fit as tightly as possible to each other and have approximately the same size. Otherwise, such a foam will bring maximum problems, starting with the installation process and ending with direct operation. Low-quality coarse-grained material absorbs an increased amount of moisture, which, in turn, entails its deformation and leads to a loss of thermal insulation qualities and premature destruction of the facade.

The shape of the heat-insulating boards made of expanded polystyrene should be the same as that of a regular rectangle. The error is allowed no more than 2 mm per 1 m. The differences in the thickness of the insulation can be a maximum of 1 mm, and the deviation on the surface of the front plane should not exceed 0.5%. Otherwise, it is impossible to insulate the facade of the house without defects. A wet facade from the outside will have low aesthetic characteristics, and its service life will be reduced several times.

Consumption of materials for arranging a wet facade: photos of private houses

As for other types of construction work, the consumption of materials is approximately based on the required amount per 1 m² of finished wet facade. Warming the house from the outside involves the following costs:

• primers will need approximately 250 milliliters per 1 m²;
• adhesive solution for fixing heat-insulating plates is spent at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m²;
• the consumption of the insulation itself with a plate thickness of at least 5 cm corresponds to the area to be insulated;
• dowels for fixing plates will need about 5 pieces per 1 m²;
• mesh for a wet facade is consumed at the rate of 1.3 m² per 1 m²;
• plasters for the leveling layer should be purchased based on the needs of 0.3 kg per 1 m²;

• primer consumption under the finishing layer is approximately 0.3 kg per 1 m²;
• finished decorative plaster will need about 3 kg per 1 m².

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of materials, you need to be guided by the instructions on the packaging of the material, but it is better to purchase ready-made kits. In this market segment, the Ceresit wet facade system has proven itself well. The technology of facade insulation using mineral wool boards involves the use of the Ceresit WM brand.

For insulation using polystyrene foam technology, the Ceresit wet facade is marked VWS. Plates for thermal insulation are treated with an adhesive and fixed to the wall, a special protective layer with reinforced fiberglass is applied on top. The system of the corresponding brand contains all the necessary materials.

Components of the price of the installation of a wet facade per m 2

The price of the finished wet facade includes the total cost of preparatory, installation and decorative work. The main costs are for materials based on their cost per 1 m² for a blank wall.

Important! The main component of the total cost of a wet facade is the price of insulation, which depends on its type, density and mineral additives.

The total cost of the finished system is the total price of the constituent components:

• adhesive mixture for fixing insulation;
• plaster mortar for the base;
• mixtures for decorative plaster;
• fiberglass mesh for the reinforced layer;
• dowels and other fasteners;
• two types of primer;
• thermal insulation boards.

Finished systems usually do not take into account the cost of additional and optional parts, various profiles and auxiliary fasteners. Also, not all manufacturers offer thermal insulation materials in the complex. In this case, you should keep in mind the average cost of insulation. For example, the average price of mineral wool for a wet facade 10 cm thick is about 650 rubles. for 1 m². The cost of expanded polystyrene for the same indicators – about 250 rubles.

Thus, the price of a wet facade per m² with mineral wool slabs will be about 1200 rubles. A thermal insulation system made of expanded polystyrene will cost much less - about 750 rubles. for 1 m².

Arrangement of a wet facade: the cost of work form² to order

The total cost of installing insulation and decorating it includes payment for the services of craftsmen or contractors. This is the case if the work is not done independently. The total price ranges from 1000 to 2500 rubles per square meter. It all depends on the total amount of work, the type of materials and the method of decorating the finished wall. The main components and the average price of wet facade installation are shown in the table below:

Type of work performed	Cost, rub./m²
Installation and dismantling of scaffolding for construction	130 – 150
Surface primer for deep penetration	60 – 90
Fixing the insulation with adhesive and leveling the wall	370 – 450
Installation of a reinforcing layer with a base plaster layer and flush embedding	330 – 370
Wall priming with quartz sand	65 – 75
Decorative plastering of various types	240 – 350
Decoration with stone on the facade plinth	870 – 920

A wide range of prices for facade wet plastering is justified by the varying degrees of complexity of the decoration process. The list may also include additional work, such as installation decorative elements. Their cost is calculated separately and depends on the complexity.

Additional factors affecting the cost of wet facade work

The above services and their cost are not constant. The list can be much longer, and the price increases due to the appearance of additional costs. The final price per m² of a turnkey wet facade depends on a number of additional factors. In particular, you should take into account:

• the original appearance and structure of the facade;

• the presence of flaws and damage;
• the level of complexity of the work performed;
• the total number of openings for doors and windows, as well as their location;
• quality characteristics of materials and their quantity;
• total amount of work.

Useful advice! The calculation of the cost is made individually for each specific case. Sometimes, even with an identical list of works and the same processing area, the price can differ significantly.

Thus, the total cost includes additional costs. For example, labor-intensive work at high altitude will require the installation of auxiliary scaffolding. The cost of their rental depends on the height and period of use. It should also be noted that work at height is much more expensive, as it requires special skills and insurance arrangements. The pricing is influenced by the costs associated with delivery and the features of individual facades.

Installation of a wet system will cost an order of magnitude cheaper than arrangement, but its further operation will cost more. Wet facade technology is usually used for insulation of private houses, and ventilated facade technology is used for finishing larger buildings. With what it is connected, we will consider below.

Ventilated facades: pricedictated by quality

Speaking about the scope of the wet facade method, it is worth mentioning such a feature as limited resistance to temperature extremes. Based on many years of research, the European Association of Plaster Type Thermal Insulation Systems came to the conclusion that the wet facade technology is not appropriate in all climatic conditions.

Even the most reliable and expensive materials, installation in compliance with all requirements do not give a long-term guarantee of service in the conditions of the inland climate of temperate latitudes, which dominates a significant part of the territory of Russia. As a starting point for the application of the wet facade system, the scientists of the association took grapes, or rather, not the plant itself, but the cycle of its ripening. That is, in a zone where climatic conditions allow the ripening of at least one of its varieties, the use of technology is appropriate.

In conditions of constant rain and high humidity, for example, in close proximity to the sea, the use of this technology is undesirable. This is due to the weak moisture resistance of this type of facade. If the wall will be subjected to frequent mechanical stress, then the installation of a wet facade is also not recommended.

Based on the above contraindications, an alternative facade technology was invented according to the plaster type in the form of a hinged heat-insulating system with an air gap. In other words, a ventilated facade. What are the similarities, differences and advantages of this type of building insulation - we will understand further.

Useful advice! You can check the quality of thermal insulation under a ventilated and wet facade using a thermal imager. Warm tones in the photo show heat loss, and dark tones show the heat resistance of the walls.

Comparative characteristics of a ventilated and wet facade: photos of houses and buildings

The hinged system differs from the plaster one in that when installing a wet facade, the plaster is applied directly to the thermal insulation layer. The ventilated facade involves the installation facade panel from fiber cement at a certain distance from the insulation, which creates the necessary protection against precipitation. In addition, thanks to the protective screen, excess moisture that has appeared behind the facade panel can evaporate through the air opening.

Thus, the ventilated facade has an additional number of functions compared to the wet method and provides:

• additional protection against moisture, as well as sound insulation;
• the highest degree of protection against ignition;
• coolness in the room in the summer, which saves on air conditioners;
• elimination of flaws on the wall in the form of irregularities and curvatures;
• ease and speed of installation;
• a wide range of design options;
• additional thermal insulation, which is facilitated by the presence of an air cushion.

In addition, the fiber cement coating does not require additional maintenance and repair of the decorative layer after a few years. The hinged structure can serve without intervention for several decades.

When solving the dilemma of which facade to choose, you can be guided by the following recommendations. A wet facade is appropriate when it is necessary to minimize the cost of finishing the building and minimize the load on the walls. In this way, it is possible to design perfectly even walls without observing special requirements for the strength and wear resistance of the facade.

The hinged sheathing, in turn, compensates for the unevenness of the wall and helps to hide any defects. Works on installation of a ventilating facade can be carried out at any time of the year, even at a negative temperature.

Areas of application for wet façade and ventilated façade

The scope of ventilated facades is much wider. They are used for insulation of private houses, finishing of multi-storey buildings and public buildings. The most widely used for decorating shops, cafes, shopping and entertainment centers and other public and commercial institutions.

Important! Wet facades are used for thermal insulation of low-rise buildings and utility rooms, as well as, if necessary, saving on insulation. As a budget option, this method is also applicable in the energy saving system of state institutions and public buildings.

In the cladding of ventilated facades, various materials, in particular:

• porcelain stoneware plates;
• aluminum and composite panels;
• fiber cement;
• high pressure laminate boards.

The main advantages of a porcelain stoneware facade are its durability, various colors and high aesthetic characteristics. But such material is quite expensive. The price of aluminum composite panels is more affordable. The material itself is universal, and thanks to a wide range of colors and structures, it allows to realize the most daring fantasies of the architect.

Fiber cement is a material imitating stone, resistant to moisture and sun. It is easy to install and open type mounts. It is most often used for facing residential buildings. Laminate panels - new material, which has different colors, textures, is resistant to weathering and fire, it is light, durable and environmentally friendly. In addition, it is cheaper than porcelain stoneware counterparts.

Wet facade technology for mineral wool: instructions, useful tips and secrets of the masters

If, after considering all kinds of insulation options, the choice was made in favor of a wet facade using mineral wool slabs, and it was decided to do the work yourself, then a number of secrets of the masters must be taken into account.

It's worth starting with the choice of material. So, on the Internet and special literature, you can find a recommendation regarding the replacement of mineral wool with fiberglass. This is a misconception, since over time, fiberglass plates begin to sag under vibration effects, and so-called cold paths form in the insulation layer.

To achieve the maximum thermal insulation effect, it is worth taking care of the insulation of not only the facade, but also the floor, as well as the ceiling. In particular, this applies to apartments above unheated rooms or on the upper floors.

On condition right choice materials and strict adherence to instructions, the warranty period of the facade can reach half a century. Additional protection The final layer of plaster will be covered with a special paint, which, moreover, will extend its service life. For this purpose, it is worth using water-dispersion paint with acrylic, silicone or silicate impurities. Its color variety includes more than a thousand shades.

Useful advice! During painting, you should look at the design and estimate documentation, which indicates the original color of the building - the new shade must match it.

Conditions for successful insulation using wet facade installation technology: video recommendations

Wet technology insulation should take place in conditions of complete protection from frost and precipitation. If the work does not require delay and its completion takes place in adverse conditions, then care should be taken to construct special scaffolding and cover them with a dense film that will provide temporary protection from wind and moisture and create a small thermal circuit.

Before starting work on the installation of a wet facade, it is necessary to tightly close all access to the interior of the room from windows and doors. It is better to complete all internal draft work in the house before the start of insulation. On the wall outside, a series of fasteners and brackets should be placed in advance, which will hold air conditioners, chambers, ebbs or downpipes.

It is necessary to work with adhesive solutions in the shade or with high cloudiness, as much as possible excluding the ingress of sunlight on the mixture. The distance between the thermal insulation boards and the reinforcing mesh must be at least 2 mm, which ensures the filling of the adhesive.

For the overall strength of the multi-layer structure, it is required to allow several days for each layer to dry. Haste in this case is unacceptable. The operational characteristics of decorative plaster depend on the conditions of the work. Optimal prerequisites are temperatures above 5 ° C, increased cloudiness, dry calm weather.

For plaster, it is necessary to select only materials for outdoor work that can fully withstand negative influences. The top plaster layer must have a high level of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, be durable and resistant to mechanical, chemical and atmospheric influences.

House insulation wet facade: summarizing

Wet facade technology, although inferior to a ventilated facade in terms of a number of performance characteristics, is a leader among existing methods insulation. Its advantages lie in the use of modern high-quality thermal insulation materials, the service life of some of them can reach half a century. A special exterior finish with high aesthetic characteristics not only guarantees the external beauty of modern residential buildings, but also makes this technology acceptable in the restoration of architectural sights.

To achieve the best result, you need to trust the work of certified companies, as well as use high-quality materials from manufacturers that have proven themselves in the construction market. To prevent the occurrence chemical reactions, it should be noted that the individual components must be compatible with each other. Each subsequent layer should have an increased level of vapor permeability in relation to the previous one. Do not forget about the strength and density of materials and their compliance with fire and environmental requirements.

The design is designed to provide a high degree of sound protection in two directions (both inside and outside the house). The quality of the materials affects the longer service life of not only the insulation layer, but the entire house, protecting the walls from precipitation and mechanical damage. The facade closes the main structure from the effects of wind, frost, pollution, ultraviolet radiation and humidity.

In conclusion, it should be noted that the use of various options for decorative plaster in the wet facade system, finishing elements and color design allows you to implement various style ideas on the outside of the building, which cannot be done using other methods of insulation, for example, ventilated facade technology.

58653 1

Before considering the issue on the merits, it is necessary to understand the terminology. The fact is that many articles give fundamentally incorrect definitions of a wet facade, which causes confusion among inexperienced developers. Amateurs call a wet facade such insulation, for the installation of which glue is used on water based. Since this material is “wet”, then the facade, respectively, is also “wet”. For persuasiveness, they talk about the dew point (it, they say, in this case is taken out of the wall) and the information takes on a “scientific” look. What is real?

According to current building regulations, all buildings must meet the requirements for heat saving. It is impossible to achieve this without the use of heaters. For example, even wooden walls in the central zone of our country must have a thickness of at least 60 cm, only such parameters guarantee the necessary thermal conductivity.

If the walls are made of brick, then their thickness increases to 120 cm or more. Of course, no one builds such houses, and to improve heat saving indicators, effective heaters are used, most often mineral wool or polystyrene.

Warming can be done both internal and external surfaces of facade walls. Let's dwell on the outer surfaces, they are insulated in two ways.

As for the dew point, in all cases, without exception, it is taken out of the premises. The only exception is that the walls of the house are so thin that the rooms are cooled to the dew point. Such cases happen in old panel Khrushchevs.

We specifically took your time to explain the terminology, only knowing this, you can correctly understand the process of facade insulation using various technologies.

Technically correct, such facades should be called a heat-insulating composite system for insulating facade walls with external plaster layers. As heaters, slabs of foam or pressed mineral wool are used, the thickness is selected taking into account the climatic zone and the initial characteristics of the thermal conductivity of the facade walls. But in most cases, you need at least ten centimeters. Pressed mineral wool is used very rarely and only special types. The reason is insufficient indicators of physical strength, partial shrinkage during operation. What layers does the wet facade consist of?

1. The base is a facade wall. It can be brick, wood, foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSB sheets. Requirement - the surface must be flat. Otherwise, air will circulate between the wall surface and the foam boards, because of this phenomenon, the insulation efficiency decreases significantly.
2. Thermal insulation layer. Expanded polystyrene of facade grades (non-combustible). It is fixed with glue and dish-shaped dowels.
3. Fiberglass. It is advisable to purchase nets that are resistant to alkalis.
4. Ordinary for painting or decorative plaster. It is allowed to finish the finish with light facing facade slabs.

Before proceeding to the description of the wet facade installation technology, we want to dwell on the requirements for facade plaster in more detail. The quality in this case is directly proportional to the number of years during which the following will be preserved in their original form:

• facade integrity;
• its novelty.

So, it is best to opt for elastic facade plasters. Silicone compounds are ideal, for example, the new generation bark beetle plaster. Consider the main advantages of this facade coating.

Elasticity. Due to the presence of silicone in the composition, "Bark beetle" is flexible and elastic. Such properties of the coating prevent the formation of microscopic cracks on the dried plaster. This is an important quality, because any building after the completion of construction work is subjected to:

• vibrations affecting the structure during shrinkage;
• expansion and contraction of the materials from which the building is made, with changes in temperature.

All of these circumstances lead to the formation of small and frequent cracks on ordinary plaster. The elastic silicone composition can protect your facade from this trouble.

The texture of silicone plaster "Bark beetle", grain 2 mm

Moisture resistance. Another unique feature of the Farbe bark beetle plaster is its 100% resistance to moisture and full vapor permeability. For this, again, you can thank the unusual composition of the mixture. The finished plaster adheres tightly to every unevenness of the covered wall, and creates a protection through which water cannot seep through.

Long-term color retention. Farbe plaster contains silicone resins, which give the following effects:

• the surface does not burn out - protection from ultraviolet rays is provided;
• prevents the effect of any other phenomena that affect the loss of brightness of the facade.

If, as a result of mechanical action, the plaster was scratched or rubbed somewhere, you will not even notice it. The entire mass of plaster is tinted in color and no scratches or abrasions are visible on it.

Self cleaning. Thanks to the "clean facade" technology, the facing plaster "Bark beetle" is independently cleaned. This happens due to the following factors:

• during distribution and solidification, the elastic composition forms a smooth, solid film;
• in the presence of even a little rain, the dust that has settled on the facade is easily washed off without outside help.

In other words, if you are too lazy to independently monitor the appearance of the dwelling, and would like it to be “itself”, the Bark beetle plaster from the Farbe factory is your option.

Record service life. The service life of Bark beetle is on average five times higher than for similar products on the market today. If using ordinary plaster, you renew the facade coating every 5 years, with "Bark beetle" this should be done every quarter of a century.

Tinting. According to the manufacturer's statements, the bark beetle silicone plaster you are interested in is tinted in about 2,500 different shades. This diversity is due to the use of computer tinting and pigments from the world's leading manufacturers.

Variants of shades of silicone plaster "Korooed" Farbe

Little expense. Dry plasters imply material consumption during cladding, equal to approximately 5 kilograms per 1 m². However, the product of the Farbe factory, due to the quality and high density of the composition, suggests using no more than 3 kilograms per unit area, which is enough to form an ideal coating.

The production of the considered silicone plaster for facades is certified according to the international standard. By purchasing silicone plaster, you provide the walls of your own home with reliable protection.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Video - How to apply silicone plaster "Bark beetle"

Prices for various types of decorative bark beetle plaster

Plaster decorative bark beetle

Wet facade installation technology

Count the number building materials with a margin of approximately 10%, prepare the tools. As a heater, we recommend using foam boards, this is the cheapest and very effective option. The disadvantage of polystyrene is the complete impermeability of moisture, but this will have to be put up with. Moreover, brick or concrete surfaces hardly breathe anyway.

To finish the facades, you will need scaffolding, it is better to use metal ones. If not, make your own from lumber. Pay great attention to safety, install them on stable surfaces. Check the position by level, if the building has more than two floors, then you need to tie the vertical posts to the facade walls with special metal hooks.

Important. During the installation of scaffolding, leave a gap between them and the wall, the size of the gap should provide convenient work hand while plastering or painting the insulation layer. Otherwise, the scaffolding will have to be dismantled and re-installed, and this is an extra waste of time and money.

Step 1. Check the surfaces of the facade walls, irregularities of more than 1 cm must be cut down, all the rest can be trimmed with glue. Do not be afraid that the cost of work will increase. If you calculate the time for additional wall plastering, the price of materials, then the use of glue as a leveling mortar will be much more profitable.

Step 2 Beat off the lower horizontal line with a special rope with blue, do it in a strictly horizontal position. If you are afraid that the first row of foam plates will slide down, then you need to fix a flat wooden or metal rail along the line. Fasten it with dowels or nails, it all depends on the material of the facade wall.

Practical advice. Dish-shaped dowels must match the base, they have differences for wooden, foam block and brick walls, keep this in mind when purchasing materials. Dowels can be screwed into a tree or driven into a prepared hole. The length of the dowel should be equal to the thickness of the foam sheet and the adhesive, plus approximately 60 mm to fix it in the wall.

Step 3 Porous surfaces should be primed, use a deep penetration primer. Apply the solution liberally for maximum impregnation of porous substrates. On smooth cement or brick facade walls, spray with cement laitance. Such operations will increase the coefficient of adhesion of the adhesive to the surfaces.

Step 4 Measure the amount of deviation from the horizontal corners of the house and check the plane of the walls. This can be done with a plumb line and a rope.

1. In the corners of the house, install plumb lines along the entire height of the wall. At the top and bottom, tie the rope to specially installed metal bars, pull it well.
2. Attach a horizontal cord to the stretched ropes, do not tighten the knots.
3. Gradually pull the horizontal cord up along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

These data will make it possible to assess the condition of the wall. If deviations exceed a centimeter, then they will have to be repaired.

Step 5 Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. The amount depends on your productivity. During the preparation of the mixture, pour water into the container, and then pour in the dry ingredients.

Practical advice. If the facade walls are covered old paint, then do not rush to remove it, it is long and difficult. First, check the strength of adhesion to the base. To do this, cut a grid of grooves about 1 × 1 cm in size in the paint, stick masking tape to the surface and tear it off. If the paint remains on the wall - excellent, the insulation of the facade can be done on it. If not, you will have to remove it from the surface of the walls.

Step 6 Glue must be applied to the surface of the foam. If the wall is even (roughnesses do not exceed 5 mm), use a comb. But this happens very rarely. In most cases, the solution will have to be applied with a trowel or spatula using the beacon method. On one sheet, you need up to eight beacons up to two centimeters high around the perimeter and in the center, with a diameter of about 10 cm. Due to this height, foam boards are easy to level. Glue must be applied at an angle along the edges of the slab to prevent it from getting into the seams.

Important. After one or two rows, eliminate the possibility of natural air convection between the insulation and the facade wall, otherwise natural draft will appear and the insulation will be ineffective. Not just bad, but inefficient, keep that in mind. To eliminate draft, the solution on these plates must be continuous along one line, the gap between the plates should be completely absent.

Step 7 Immediately after spreading, apply the plate to the surface. Press and level the foam with a long wooden trowel or rail, control the position with a level.

Important. Inexperienced builders can deviate vertically, it is difficult for them to control the position with a level. We recommend making a rope pattern for yourself. Stretch them at the desired distance from the wall and fix. Ropes will need to be installed at a distance of about 2-3 meters. Such simple fixtures will allow you to constantly monitor the position of all foam sheets along the height of the facade wall.

The difference in height of the planes of two adjacent plates cannot exceed two millimeters. If deviations are found, then after the glue has cooled, the protrusions must be carefully cut off with a very sharp knife and the transition made invisible. If wide joints are obtained between the ends of the plates - it's okay, they will then be blown out with mounting foam. The second and subsequent rows are recommended to start from the inner corners and move to the outer ones, it is more difficult to adjust the inner ones.

Step 8 To increase the fire resistance of buildings between each floor, it is necessary to make fire jumpers. This requirement of the new legislation is aimed at improving the safety and fire resistance of buildings. Fire cuts are made from pressed mineral wool of the same thickness as the foam boards. The width of the cuts is not less than twenty centimeters. Jumpers are installed around the entire perimeter of buildings and at window and doorways.

Step 9 Finishing window and door openings. Measure the slopes, cut out the slabs along them. Do not rush, all joints should be as even as possible. It is better to use mineral wool as a heater, but the choice is yours. If the finish is relatively massive, then take the foam. The insulation should cover the frame of the window and door, due to this, heat losses are reduced and the appearance of the facade wall is improved.

Important. In the place where the window tide will be installed, the foam must be cut at an angle to ensure an unobstructed stack of water. One more thing. The seams of the slabs should not be a continuation of the slopes. In these places, you need to use whole slabs and make appropriate cutouts in them to fit the size of the window. This method eliminates the accidental ingress of water into the gap between the facade wall and the foam. The minimum allowable distance from the seam to the slopes is 15 cm.

On the part of the plate adjacent to window block, glue is not applied. In the future, the gap is foamed with construction foam.

Seal all the cracks with mounting foam, after it cools, carefully cut off the remnants. Fill the voids with foam to the full thickness of the plates; it is recommended to moisten the surfaces before foaming.

Step 10 After the final hardening of the adhesive, increase the fixation strength with special dowels with large heads. They need to be installed at the junction of corners and in the center of each sheet. We have already mentioned that no technology recommends mounting insulation boards without dowels, no most expensive adhesive gives such a reliable fixation as dowels. There must be at least four pieces for each square meter of the slab.

This completes the insulation process, you can proceed to further finishing.

Insulation plastering

A very important process, not only the appearance of the facade wall, but also the durability of the entire finish depends on the quality of its execution. To increase the adhesion strength and protect the foam sheets from mechanical damage, it is necessary to use a plastic mesh, the mesh size is approximately 5 mm. Before starting work, check the surface of the wall with a long rule or rail.

First you need to trim the corners. Perforated metal profiles are used to strengthen the corners. Cut out strips of mesh about 30-40 cm wide. Apply glue to the corners of buildings of the same width, sink the reinforcing mesh into it, align it. Install a metal profile in the corners and again drown it in the solution. Level the surface. From above, the corners will be closed with a new mesh already during the finishing of the facade walls.

Step 1. With a smooth metal float or a wide spatula, apply a layer of mortar approximately 2-3 mm thick over the plates, level it immediately. There is no need to try very hard, the main thing is that it sticks well to the surface of the foam. Fiberglass mesh is easier to lay from top to bottom, the overlap must be done at least ten centimeters.

Important. Never apply the mesh to a dry wall, and then cover it with glue, only outright hacks do this. The fact is that this method of finishing significantly reduces the strength of gluing materials; in the future, cracks will certainly appear on the plaster. pay attention to finished houses, many of them have this drawback - the consequences of the work of unscrupulous craftsmen.

Step 2 Carefully level the surface of the mesh, the fibers must be completely covered with glue. Check the plane of the wall with a long rail and smooth out any irregularities. To do this, carefully attach a flat rail to the wall and immediately take it away. The footprint will show areas that need alignment.

The surface must be as flat as possible.

Step 3 If the facade is planned to be painted, then a second layer of plaster should be applied, the thickness is within 2-3 mm. The main condition is the maximum alignment of the walls. The technology is the same, do not be discouraged if traces remain after the spatula, then they can be gently rubbed with an ordinary grater. If decorative plaster is chosen for finishing, then it can be applied over the first layer. The same applies to gluing thin facade panels.

If the basement is insulated, then here it is necessary to adhere to the recommended technologies to the maximum extent. The surface of the plinth must be plastered, before gluing the boards, impregnate several times with a waterproofing solution. The fact is that concrete absorbs a lot of moisture, it will fall on the glue. And the foam eliminates the possibility of evaporation, water accumulates under it, expands during freezing and the plates fall off, they will only be held on dowels. If the base is then lined with rather heavy finishing materials, then with their weight they deform the foam plates. At best, the surfaces will become uneven, at worst, you will have to remove materials and repeat the insulation of the house from the beginning.

In the absence of experience in performing such work, it is difficult to find out whether the foam is firmly glued. We recommend doing a test patch. Apply the mortar around the perimeter and in the center, place the sheet against the facade wall and align its position. Remove the styrofoam immediately and look for traces of glue on the wall. They should be uniform over the entire area, and the total area should be at least 40% of the sheet size. Such a simple test will make it possible in the future to focus on the amount and place of application of glue. In addition, you will feel with what force the foam sheet should be pressed against the facade wall.

Always start the installation of a row from the corner and from the whole slab. If a whole slab does not fit at the opposite corner, then it must be cut to size and used as the penultimate one, and the last one must be intact. In extreme cases, the area of ​​​​gluing the foam should be twice the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe part protruding around the corner of the house. Do not forget that the slab should protrude beyond the corner of the building by its thickness, in this place the insulation from the two walls should overlap. It is better to make a ledge with a margin, the excess will then be cut off. The solution must not get on the protruding part of the plate. The next rows of foam on the previous ones are installed in gearing. The tighter they fit, the more secure the mount. In the outer corners, the biggest load, and you can’t insure yourself with dowels, remember this and carefully perform all operations. The plates on the wall should be placed apart, it is forbidden to match the vertical seams on the wall.

Especially carefully check the position of the first row, it is he who sets the level for the entire wall. It is recommended to lay subsequent rows only after the adhesive has completely cured on the first and fixed with dowels.

Do not allow glue to get into the joints between the plates. Why? cement mixtures have high thermal conductivity and form cold bridges. They will become noticeable on the facade walls in the form of wet stripes. There are cases when such flaws cannot be hidden even with decorative plaster. The stripes are not permanent, appearing or disappearing depending on climatic conditions.

The main task of the reinforcing mesh is to protect the foam from mechanical damage. Experienced builders know that it is impossible to clean the foam from dried high-quality glue without damaging the surface. This means that the role of the grid in holding the plaster is minimal. If the mass falls off, then repairs still cannot be avoided, the plaster will sag on the grid. Hence the conclusion - reinforcement must be done in those sections of the facade wall that can be damaged by mechanical stress, as a rule, not higher than 1.5 m from the base. Anything above is up to you.

You can cut foam boards with a hacksaw with fine teeth. But this is not the best option. A much smoother cut is obtained after cutting with a heated nichrome wire. It can be bought in specialized stores, the length of the wire depends on the diameter. Stretch the wire in a convenient place and connect to the outlet. Uneven cut edges after a hacksaw can be polished with a special grater.

Video - Styrofoam cutting device

Extruded polystyrene foam has very low adhesion with adhesives. Before use, be sure to clean it on both sides with a grater until shallow furrows appear.

Video - Preparing polystyrene foam for gluing

Do not use this material as the main thermal insulation, it can only be used to finish the basement. And then only in those cases when the finishing of these surfaces is done with heavy materials.

Video - Wet facade installation technology

IN modern world question effective insulation houses are very sharp. Approximately 40% of the heat from houses escapes through the walls, which leads to an unjustified increase in energy costs. To solve this acute problem, wet facades are most often used. What is a "wet facade" and how it can improve thermal insulation characteristics building?

The essence of the new technology Wet facades

The innovative thermal insulation system got its name due to the fact that adhesive solutions are used when fixing the facing material. These can be liquid and semi-liquid mixtures based on viscous polymeric materials or compositions made independently using water.

The main feature that distinguishes a wet facade from other insulation options is its multi-layering. Three main layers of the structure can be distinguished: a layer of heat-insulating material, a basic layer and a decorative one. The main attention in the construction of such a system is given to the choice of insulation.

Types of wet facades

When building a private house for insulation, you can use polystyrene foam or mineral and polystyrene foam boards. There are several types of wet facades:

• Mineral, in which mineral wool is a heater. It is covered with a layer of mineral reinforcing compounds, and they work with mineral or silicone plaster at the finish.

• Organic, using polystyrene as a heater. For the base coat, an organic mass is used, and for the finish, organic or silicone plasters.

• Combined, in which both mineral materials and polystyrene foam are used.

Wet facade installation

Installation of a wet facade is not difficult: insulation with a special polymer cement mortar
attached to the wall. Instead of glue, you can use metal fasteners or liquid nails.

The next layer is applied over the insulation - the base layer, which is a fairly rigid layer of fiberglass and synthetic materials. Such a layer protects the insulation from mechanical damage on the one hand, and on the other hand, it acts as the basis for a decorative coating, which is a light decorative plaster.

Advantages and disadvantages of the new technology

New building technology solves two problems at the same time: decorative and heat-insulating. That is why it can be used to improve the thermal insulation properties of the house, and to improve its appearance.

Wet facades of steel good option decoration of old buildings. The entire sandwich structure is relatively light in weight, so it can be installed on concrete houses, as well as built from logs, timber or even chipboard.

Innovative technology compares favorably with other design options for building facades:

• its low cost;
• additional sound insulation;
• improving the appearance of the building;
• the possibility of repair and renewal.

But before starting work, it does not hurt to familiarize yourself with all pros and cons of a wet facade. In the treasury of advantages, you can "put" the following advantages:

• is a leader among various methods of thermal insulation of buildings;
• increases the level of comfort of the room;
• can last about 30 years without repair;
• saves the internal space of the house, as it is installed outside;
• does not need additional reinforcement.

However, wet facades cannot be called ideal option insulation. They also have their drawbacks, associated, first of all, with the observance of the conditions during the performance of work:

• they cannot be installed at temperatures below 5 degrees;
• it is impossible to work with them in conditions of high humidity, since the adhesive solution must dry evenly;
• drying of materials in direct sunlight is unacceptable;
• care should be taken to protect against wind, as dust and dirt can get on the treated surfaces.

Based on these requirements, you should choose the right time to work with wet facades. The optimal period for installation will be from the end of spring to the beginning of summer. Also, early autumn is suitable for work.

If you need to build a new house from cedar, pine or larch, the specialists of the company "" are always ready to help you.

Headings:

The design of the facade of the building is just as important as its interior design. Modern manufacturers produce many practical materials, which can be used for exterior decoration of houses of any size and layout.

What is behind the title?

Not every homeowner knows exactly what is included in the definition of a “wet facade”. Before proceeding to familiarize yourself with this method of finishing, you should answer this question. The memorable name of the wet facade speaks for itself. In this case, the use of high-quality adhesive solutions in a liquid or semi-liquid state is implied. Thanks to the introduction of this well-thought-out technology, living spaces are reliably protected from the appearance of dew points - when the facade is wet, they are brought out, and do not penetrate into the floors.

In addition, the definition of a wet facade includes three main ways of finishing private houses, in which the fasteners of insulation, reinforcing mesh and cladding occur with the help of special adhesive mixtures. Even if there is a sharp temperature difference inside and outside the house, harmful condensate will not accumulate in houses with a wet facade. This technology saw the light back in the 60s - 70s of the last century, when the question arose of efficient energy saving of buildings. Here it is worth noting that it is high-quality external wall insulation in this case that is the best solution, since it makes it possible to move the dew point as far as possible from interior spaces in a dwelling.

Technology features: pros and cons

Currently, homeowners can choose for themselves best option insulation - external or internal. However, the lion's share of consumers turns to reliable external systems in which the insulation is located outside. Today, many homeowners are turning to this design of the facade of private houses, as it allows you to extend the life of building and facing materials. In this case, as in many others, you first need to properly prepare the facade. After that, you can proceed directly to its insulation with suitable materials. The choice of heaters today is greater than ever, so you can choose the best option for any price.

Only after this, the masters begin to apply a special adhesive to the insulating material. Following the technology, then a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, which is resistant to alkaline compounds. The final stages of all work is the plastering of the base, as well as the application of the finishing layer of the decorative finish. In order for a wet facade to be reliable and wear-resistant, it must be a multilayer cake. This rule cannot be neglected, otherwise the lining will be less durable and reliable, and it will be cold inside the dwelling.

Such thoughtful systems boast many positive qualities for which they are chosen by many homeowners.

• One such system combines both a decorative and a heat-insulating function, which is very convenient and saves time on additional work.
• If the walls of the house are too light or thin, then a wet facade is the ideal solution. With such a system, the house will become not only much more attractive, but also much warmer and more comfortable.
• Using a high-quality warm facade, you can significantly save on heating, since the housing does not require excessive heating.

• A wet facade is also good because it can be used for any reason.
• With the help of such a system, additional sound insulation can be provided to the living space.
• Thanks to the wet facade, the service life of the house will increase significantly, as it will be reliably protected from negative external factors.
• With this design, houses look much neater.

• Ugly salt stains do not appear on a wet facade over the years, which are very difficult to get rid of.
• Overlappings with such a design do not add to themselves, so they do not need to make a reinforced foundation.
• According to experts, a wet facade is cheaper than analogues.
• In the presence of a wet facade, the interior of the dwelling will be protected not only from frost, but also from high temperatures. The rooms will not be overheated and stuffy.

Today, such technologies are used by those who are used to taking care of their home and want it to retain an attractive appearance for as long as possible. However, one should not think that a wet facade is an impeccable solution, devoid of flaws.

It is worth paying attention to the disadvantages that are inherent in such a system.

• Many homeowners are upset that the installation of a wet facade can only be started at a temperature of +5 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, all materials may fail even at the application stage.
• In no case should installation work be carried out if it is raining outside the window (even light and fine). Yes, and during wet weather, it is better to postpone the installation of a wet facade “for later”.

• When making such a facade, it is necessary to ensure that all building and facing materials fit together.
• Direct sunlight on a wet façade can cause excessive drying of the mortar on the ceilings, which can adversely affect the durability of the cladding and its durability and wear.
• Plastered bases must be provided with high-quality protection from the wind. This is due to the fact that in the process of settling on a fresh coating, dust and dirt can stick. The type of finish will deteriorate greatly.

How serious are the listed disadvantages - everyone decides for himself. However, you will never encounter many of them if you adhere to the technology of arranging a wet facade. The quality of the purchased materials also plays an important role. Low-grade mortar and adhesive mixtures will not last very long, and their application can cause many difficulties.

The filling of the "pie"

As mentioned above, a prerequisite for a high-quality wet facade is a competent “pie” device. The composition of the latter includes several important layers, without which a reliable coating will not work. A special front wall acts as a base in such a system. It can be any - brick, wooden, monolithic, foam block or sheet. The main requirement that the base must meet is a perfectly flat surface. If this condition is neglected, air will constantly circulate between the floor surface and the insulating materials, due to which the insulation in the room will not reach the desired level.

The next important layer of the "pie" is the heat-insulating layer. Experts recommend buying nets that are not afraid of contact with alkalis. After the thermal layer, a reinforced layer follows. As a rule, it includes mineral glue and a reinforcing mesh. Next, you need a layer of high-quality facade paint or decorative plaster. And it is also allowed for finishing to purchase special facade plates that have a small weight.

Among other things, it should be borne in mind that the entire "pie" of the wet facade must be waterproof. That is why all materials must be selected in such a way that each new layer in the direction from the inside to the outside is more vapor-tight than the previous one. Only if this requirement is met, the dwelling will “breathe”. And it should also be borne in mind that the thermal circuit of the "pie" must remain uninterrupted. It should not have cracks, gaps or cracks.

A multi-layer system called a wet facade is very popular today. Many homeowners choose it, however, not all of them know that there are several varieties of such facade design. To begin with, it is worth considering in detail which subspecies are divided into wet facades according to the materials used.

• Organic. In such systems, as a rule, cheap foam acts as a heater. As for reinforcement, it is performed using a special reinforcing mass of organic origin. The final finishing coat in this case is a silicone plaster mixture, although organic plaster can be used instead.

• Mineral. If it is decided to turn to a mineral wet facade, then you should purchase high-quality mineral wool for insulation. Reinforcement in such a system occurs with the help of a special reinforcing solution of mineral origin. For the final decorative coating, the same material is suitable as for organic options.
• Combined. With such a system, inexpensive foam is also used for insulation. Mineral raw materials are used for further finishing.

Modern wet facades also differ in the method of fixation.

• With a heavy version, the insulation does not need to be installed directly on the ceiling. Instead, plates thermal insulation material put on dowels equipped with small hooks. These fasteners are pre-inserted into the walls. In this case, a reliable mesh made of metal is applied to the insulation. This element is attached to special pressure plates. After that, you can proceed to plastering the bases and finishing them with a finishing layer of material. With such work it is quite possible to cope with your own hands.

• Light facades are much more common than heavy ones. With this finish, the insulation is attached directly to the walls. For this, it is permissible to use a suitable adhesive together with plastic dowels.

The choice of insulation

One of the main roles in a wet facade is played by a properly selected insulation. Today, for this, as a rule, either foam sheets are chosen (their thickness should be from 5 to 10 cm), or high-density mineral wool (it is better to take basalt products).

Choosing a warming material for a wet facade should be very carefully and carefully.

• Price. With regard to this criterion, then the foam, no doubt, outperforms mineral wool. This material has been used for a very long time and is inexpensive, so many consumers choose it, despite its fragility.
• vapor permeability properties. Such qualities are inherent in the popular, but expensive mineral wool. According to professionals, with such a heater, the house "breathes", and therefore it is more comfortable to be in it. In addition, "breathing" dwellings are not subject to the formation of fungus and mold. Styrofoam does not differ in particular vapor permeability, yielding in this case to mineral wool.

• The complexity of the installation work. If we compare polystyrene and mineral wool in terms of installation complexity, we can immediately say that the first of them is simpler and more pliable. This is due to the rigid structure of the foam.
• Fire safety. Fire safety characteristics are also very important for heaters. So, foam boards are combustible, so they must be treated with fire retardants. Basalt wool does not burn. It can withstand temperatures up to +1000 degrees.

And also it is necessary to pay attention to the thickness of the purchased insulation. Today, in the stores of building and finishing materials, you can meet a lot of insulating materials with various dimensional parameters. The thickness of the plates is different and can range from 25 to 200 mm. As a rule, the step in this case is 10 mm.

It should be borne in mind that too thin sheets of insulation may be ineffective. But there is no need to rush to extremes, because too thick materials are also not recommended, since they will only lead to extra money spending, and it will not be very comfortable in a dwelling with excessive insulation. Experts strongly recommend purchasing high-quality insulation materials for building facades from well-known manufacturers. Excessive savings can lead to the purchase of a low-quality product that will not perform its main functions and will require replacement, and this is an additional expense.

Materials and tools

A regular one can also build a high-quality wet facade House master. However, for this you need to stock up not only with patience, but also with all the necessary tools and supplies. All materials and tools must be of unsurpassed quality. It will be much easier to work with such components, and the result will definitely not disappoint.

It is worth considering all the positions that may be useful for such work.

• You will need a starting or basement profile. It is necessary to ensure that the parameter of its width corresponds to the thickness of the insulation. The quality of the profile here should correspond to the perimeter of the finished floors.

• You should purchase reliable connection details for the base profile. Thanks to these components, it is possible to achieve perfectly correct joining of all profiles in a single plane. In addition, these components make it possible to form the correct joint (temperature gap) between the profiles.
• Fasteners for frame profiles. It is worth making sure that the expansion dowel-nails have a length of at least 40 mm if the partitions are made of solid brick or concrete. For floors consisting of hollow bricks, it is recommended to choose fasteners of 60 mm, for aerated concrete and gas silicate - 100 mm. Fastener point counting is easy. If the insulation layer is 80 mm or more, then the step will be 300 mm, and with a thickness of less than 80 mm, installation can be done in steps of 500 mm. For each mounting point you will need a plastic spacer. This part is useful for the most accurate and correct alignment of the profiles.

• It is necessary to purchase a high-quality primer in order to prepare the floors for gluing the plates. In this case, for brick, plastered or gas silicate bases, it is recommended to buy a deep penetration primer. Its average consumption is 300 ml per 1 m². For concrete foundations, it is better to buy a primer of the "betonokontakt" type. The average consumption of such a solution, as a rule, is 400 ml per 1 m².
• It is necessary to purchase a high-quality adhesive composition for fixing insulation boards. Choose only those adhesives that are designed specifically for such tasks.

• It is worth buying high-quality insulation boards with a pre-calculated thickness. Their average consumption, taking into account cutting and possible waste, is from 1.05 per 1 m².
• You will also need dowel-fungi. They are needed for mechanical strengthening of the insulating material. In total, the length of the dowel must correspond to the thickness of the insulation, as well as the length of the expansion element.
• You will need to stock up on materials for applying the base reinforcing layer that goes along the insulation plates. To do this, most often a specialized plaster mixture is purchased or a reliable adhesive composition, which is also used to install warm plates.
• You need to buy a reinforcing mesh. It is recommended to purchase wear-resistant and durable products from materials that are not afraid of alkali.
• Be sure to stock up on water-dispersion primer, decorative plaster and paint specifically for outdoor use.

Preparatory work

When all the necessary components have already been prepared, you should proceed to the next important step - this is the preparation of the bases for the future installation of a wet facade.

Worth taking apart this process on the example of fixing a heater on a suitable adhesive composition.

• Insulation plates can be attached with glue only if the base is as thoroughly cleaned of everything superfluous as possible. For example, if the facade has the former paintwork, then it will need to be removed right down to the base or layer of plaster.

• Past plaster is allowed to be left only if it is still in perfect condition. To make sure of this, you need to conduct a rigorous check of the base with light tapping. If unstable areas are found, they should be cleaned quickly.
• If mold or fungus is present on the walls, then they cannot be used to equip a wet facade. Such defects must be removed from the walls.
• After removing the fungal deposits, the floors must be smeared with a special "treating" agent. It is allowed to start other work only when the antiseptic on the grounds is completely dry.

• It should be noted that the walls must be even. Any irregularities, cracks, cracks and potholes need to be repaired. It is worth sealing them with soil, sanding.
• It is necessary to examine the plane of the walls both horizontally and vertically. If deviations exceeding 20 mm were noticed, then it will not be possible to level them a little later with plaster, so problems need to be solved as soon as possible.
• Install metal components on the walls in advance, which are used for mounting antennas, gutters, lighting fixtures and other similar things.
• When the repair and plaster layer on the floors dries completely, the surface must be primed. The primer can be applied with a roller or brush. You must try not to lose sight of any area on the ground.

Installation and plastering

If the base is prepared correctly, then you can proceed to the installation of the starting basement profiles and the further installation of the insulation material.

Worth Considering step by step instructions for carrying out these works.

• The base profile must be placed strictly horizontally. It is on it that the first insulation plate will be installed. To monitor the evenness of the location of this part should be using a level.
• You should never install profiles with an overlap. It would be more correct to mount these parts exclusively end-to-end, maintaining an interval of 2-3 mm.
• On external and inside corners profiles must be fastened while maintaining the gap. For this purpose, these parts are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

• If the density of the insulation exceeds 80 cm, then you should take care of temporary stops for mounting the starting profile. These parts must not bend. After installing the insulation, the supports are simply removed.
• When all the supports are ready, you should proceed to the preparation of the solution. You should follow the instructions on the package.
• IN right amount water gradually add a dry solution. To bring all the components to a liquid state, you need to use a drill with a mixer attachment.
• The composition should be mixed until a single mass without lumps is formed. Typically, this takes 5 minutes. Next, you need to take a short pause for 6-8 minutes and mix the solution again.

It is permissible to lay the adhesive on the insulation material in the following ways:

• stripes of 100 mm along the perimeter, leaving 20–30 cm from the edge;
• small slides with a diameter of about 200 mm, while the height of the applied solution can be 10 or 20 mm.

If the wall to be insulated is fairly even, then the adhesive can be applied to its entire surface with a notched trowel. Glue is recommended to be applied as follows:

• a small amount of the mixture must be rubbed into the coating of the insulation board, applying little effort;
• transfer the required amount of adhesive.

Further, the plate, smeared with glue, leans into its place and presses firmly against it. It is necessary to distribute the glue by slightly moving the part to the sides, up and down. Excess glue that comes around the edges should be removed as soon as possible. The next insulation plate should be placed as close as possible to the previous one, leaving no gaps. If it doesn’t work without them, then they can be closed with mineral wool wedges. As a rule, the laying of insulation starts from one corner, moving further in rows.

In this case, the following rules must be observed:

• the initial row must be set in such a way that it rests on the first profile along the board (limiter);
• plates must be laid with a shift of vertical joints by at least 200 mm;
• at the corners, use the “toothed lock” technique;

• parts of slabs close to corners, partitions or slopes should not have a width of more than 200 mm;
• as soon as possible, you need to dock the insulation layer with ceilings and slopes.

When completing the installation of insulation, you need to make sure that there are no gaps or gaps anywhere. All defects must be eliminated with the remains of mineral wool. After laying the insulation, a reinforcing mesh should be installed. It is needed for the final layer.

Finishing

When the reinforcing layer is completely dry (it takes from 3 to 7 days), you can go directly to finishing grounds. Apply a thin layer of plaster mixture evenly using a trowel positioned at an angle. The resulting surface will become an ideal basis for reliable processing. facade paint or other selected material. This procedure is the last step in warming the outside of the house.

When installing a wet facade, you should follow the advice from experts.

• For work on the facade, you can only use materials that are not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise you can get cracked plaster as a result.
• It is worth running your hand over the surface of the base. If there are traces of chalk on it, and something is crumbling from the wall, then the floors should be cleaned as carefully as possible.

• The plinth profile after installation must be in one line. There should be no gaps or cracks in the connection areas.
• Experts strongly do not recommend choosing fiberglass boards for home insulation. Such materials cannot boast of sufficient strength. Moreover, they are afraid of alkalis, without which plaster and adhesive mixtures are indispensable.
• The heat insulator should not be pressed against the base again. Its displacement after a few minutes is also not recommended. If the insulation does not stick as it should, then remove the adhesive solution, and then apply it again to the plate and press the part to the surface.

• In the process of insulating slopes, it is necessary to ensure that the insulating material goes beyond their limits by about 10 mm. With this option, it will be much easier to dock the main facade insulation.
• During installation, the dowel is considered to be correctly installed if its head is located in the same plane with the heat-insulating layer.
• Reinforced mesh cannot be laid by installing it on a heater that has not been smeared with glue before, because if the reinforcing layer is rather thin, then cracks will appear at its junctions.

• If you decide to do all the work yourself, then you should stock up on branded materials and mixtures from well-known manufacturers, despite their cost. It is advisable to purchase products that have good consumer reviews.
• Facade work should be carried out at the end of winter or at the beginning of autumn. It is advisable to get acquainted with the weather forecast before proceeding to the design of the facade.

Beautiful examples

A wet façade with a rough peach finish looks spectacular on almost any home, from small to large and multi-storey. You can dilute pastel paint with light side inserts and a dark roof.

Light coffee facades with white window frames look very gentle. In tandem with ceilings of a similar shade, a dark chocolate roof, as well as a fence made of wood and brick, will harmoniously look.

A wet facade, finished with snow-white or cream paint, will look spectacular if you complement it with inserts under a gray wild stone. Such a building can be decorated with rocky paths and wrought-iron fences around the site or balcony.

The original wet façade with coffee borders can be completed with stonework at the bottom. On such a house, a burgundy shade roof will organically look, which will effectively dilute the pastel palettes.

It is a simpler exterior finishing technology than the so-called “wet facade”.
Working with a wet facade is more difficult, but the result is worth it. What to look for and how to make the facade beautiful and warm - read in this article.

Wet facade: materials, technology, features

The wet facade is called so because a significant part of the work is associated with the use of solutions. The finishing layer, in particular, is superimposed precisely with mixtures, the composition and characteristics of which allow you to create color solutions that are unique in texture. Classical materials are used for facade insulation. Let's start with their choice.

The choice of insulation

When creating a wet facade, foam or mineral wool is used. Styrofoam must be marked PSBS-25-F(the letter “F” means the facade, and the number 25 is the weight of one cubic meter, that is, it is the density of the material). Well, if you are going to use cotton wool, take it with a density of 80-100 kg per cubic meter and also only one that is labeled as suitable for wet facade insulation.

Which is better - polystyrene or mineral wool?

The first difference is noticeable to everyone - this is the price. Styrofoam is cheaper than mineral wool by about 2-2.5 times. The next plus is the ease of working with this material, because it can be cut at any angle, polished and create any plane, with ledges and cornices.
There are advantages to mineral wool. The first is the ability to attach it to rounded walls. Another plus, and the most significant, is vapor permeability, and in this it is significantly superior to foam. In addition, cotton wool is an excellent soundproofing material.

Vapor permeability is a very important factor. Insulation should not only keep the house warm, it should also ensure the evaporation of excess moisture from the walls. If the facade does not provide proper moisture removal, the walls will freeze through, which will lead to rapid wear of both the building itself and its facade.
Online calculators make it possible to calculate the required thickness of walls and insulation in the facade. And although they do not clarify everything to the end, you will receive an approximate figure, which you will rely on in a conversation with the contractor and will not allow yourself to be deceived.

Let's take an example. You live in the Moscow region, in a house made of foam blocks with a wall thickness of 20 cm, which needs to be insulated. If you add 10 cm of foam, the wall will come out very warm, but, for sure, condensation will accumulate between the foam block and the insulation.

Add another 10 cm and get warm wall, at which the dew point will go into the insulation.

A similar calculation with mineral wool shows that it will give a similar result even with a 10 cm layer. Given more easy installation and a gain in price (polystyrene will be needed twice as much as cotton wool, there is no saving), it is better to choose mineral wool.

Stages of work

The plan is simple:

1. The heater is attached to the wall.
2. A base reinforcing layer is created on the insulation.
3. A decorative coating is applied.

As a result, we get such a fur coat:
*
Now, let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Insulation mount

Here are the three basics quality installation insulation:

1. The lower layer of insulation rests on a metal profile encircling the building along the perimeter.
2. The insulation is glued to the wall with cement or polyurethane-based glue;
3. Dowels with “fungi” “insure” the adhesive connection, pressing the insulation against the wall.

Builders and installers often neglect the metal profile, because of its high cost, plus it must somehow be closed at the end. But this point cannot be omitted. The wall can "slide".

Glue

Glue is chosen according to the type of wall. For block or brickwork, take a cement-based adhesive prepared from a dry mix. On a perfectly flat, plastered or tiled surface, polyurethane adhesive can be applied. He reminds mounting foam and applied with a special gun from a cylinder.
Cement adhesive is well suited for uneven surfaces, as it allows you to smooth out various irregularities, it is suitable for working with both cotton wool and foam. And polyurethane - only for foam.

dowels

Dowels are also expensive and bad. It is better to buy dowels with stainless steel cores, cheap plastic fixes are unreliable. For fastening to a frame wall, you can also use cheap ones, but they will need to be finalized (cut off the “mushroom” leg, and insert it into the “hat” long screw). It's better to buy a good one.

A dowel with a metal rod looks like this:

Before proceeding with the fixing of the insulation, clean the wall and prime it. Be sure to follow the directions on the adhesive package.

Before attaching mineral wool mats to the wall, they need to be primed and allowed to dry, but foam plastic can be glued immediately.

Regardless of which insulation is chosen, hammer in the dowels until the adhesive layer is completely dry, wait a day. So you can make sure that all the insulation is stuck and do not damage the adhesive layer when attaching the "fungi".
When installing a heater on frame walls with the help of glue-foam, you do not need to wait a whole day. Just apply insulation and immediately fasten it with a dowel. Upon completion of installation, check the coating for level. Sand the protruding parts as necessary.

Create a base layer

A wet facade can last for many years, or it can begin to crack after the second winter. This is largely due to the correct preparation of the base layer, and it, in turn, depends on the quality of the materials you use. Therefore, buy only the best glue and reinforcing fiberglass - it is from these two components that the base layer is created.
The mesh can be different, usually they take a density of 160-185g per square meter. Be sure to pay attention to the label - it says that this mesh is intended for the facade, and it is alkali resistant. Alkaline resistance is extremely important as the cement adhesive can destroy the mesh. If there is no marking, put a piece of mesh in a solution of laundry soap. Poor quality will begin to creep in a few hours.

To create a reinforcing layer, you will need a notched trowel - use it to apply glue to the insulation and press a section of the mesh into it. After leveling with a flat spatula, and proceed to the next section. Make sure the surface is as flat as possible. Stripes from the edges of the spatula are removed with sandpaper the next day after drying.

If you still decide to save money on the metal profile, be sure to place the edge of the mesh under the bottom of the insulation. To do this, before attaching the lower layer of insulation, glue the edge of the reinforcing mesh to the wall, then lay the insulation, then wrap the mesh on the insulation and glue it to it.
This can be visualized more clearly by looking at the image:

IN summer time protect the wall by creating a shelter from the sun and water. This is necessary because the adhesive for the reinforcing layer in the heat will dry out faster than necessary, which will make working with it very laborious. Well, rain is dangerous for the layer during its drying.

After drying and sanding the base coat, apply a primer on it. It can be silicate or acrylic, depending on the type of finish.

Finish coat

The easiest way to cover the facade water-based paint , moreover, it can be applied directly to the reinforcing layer; it can be applied, having previously primed it with diluted water.

Can be used cement-based mineral plaster. It passes moisture well, preventing it from accumulating inside the walls and insulation, is inexpensive and is prepared from a dry mixture. It can be used anywhere, the only exception is frame houses. After drying, the plaster can be given any color, in itself it is light. To give the surface a certain texture, use the filler proposed by the manufacturer. For example, here are designs in the style of "bark beetle", "fur coat".

For mineral plaster, two types of primer can be used - silicate or "concrete contact".

If you have a frame house - use acrylic plaster which withstands wall deformation and vibration. Acrylic plaster is elastic and also has excellent water-repellent properties. It is painted right before application in any desired color, although if you want to paint it after application - please, and as a primer for such plaster, an acrylic primer with quartz sand is used.

You can also use silicate plaster- it has all the advantages of acrylic and good vapor permeability.

More advanced version - silicone and silicate-silicone, which, in addition to everything else, are self-cleaning (at least that's what the manufacturer says).

Texture fillers used in acrylic, silicate and silicate-silicone plasters are small pieces of granite 1-3mm in size. Thanks to such pieces, the surface will look like an orange peel, but if you walk with a special roller or grater after application, you will get a unique texture.

Well, in conclusion, we will tell you about the most expensive plasters - mosaic. In this case, the binder composition is transparent resins, and the texture filler is colored stone chips, which should be selected by color. When the plaster hardens, it will turn into a glass-like surface that is easy to clean and looks great. Its minus is the high price, and not everyone can afford to finish the entire facade with such material. Such plaster is used not only in exterior finish but also in the interior.

We hope you now know everything to prepare for the meeting with the "wet facade". Have a beautiful home!