Arranging a comfortable living space, a comfortable office room, a sales area or a warehouse depends on the correct choice of furniture units. All types of furniture can be divided into cabinet, modular, project, upholstered products and structures made according to individual projects. Factory models are popular among consumers due to their affordability. However, in most cases, after purchasing ready-made cabinet units, furniture assembly is necessary, unless installation of the products by specialists is provided.

Typically, prefabricated furniture purchased in a showroom, store, or market, or ordered from a factory, is delivered to consumers in disassembled form. If the installation of furniture is not specified in the contract, the craftsmen will not assemble it, so the owner needs to do the entire amount of work with his own hands.

• On the one hand, if you have a drawing, components, and tools, installation is not difficult. But high-quality assembly requires the presence of certain skills and a minimal understanding of the technology of assembly and installation of cabinet furniture. Main stages of the technological process:
• unpack furniture parts, fasteners and accessories supplied in the kit. It is imperative to check the units’ compliance with the declared quantity, quality and color;
• You should check the availability of instructions, diagrams, detailed drawings according to which the furniture is assembled. If some elements are missing, you can purchase additional fasteners or contact the manufacturer; it is necessary to select and prepare fasteners, mounting accessories, connecting elements
• , drills, electric and mechanical tools, hardware and other consumables; checking that the holes for fixing the fasteners correspond to the attached drawing. The assembly diagram must contain clear instructions
• for installation of furniture structures;
• if you have no assembly experience, it is recommended to first mount something small, for example, a furniture box, and then proceed with the installation of large furniture, as shown in the picture;
• complete design with shelves, drawers, decorative fittings. It is convenient if during assembly you can position the model using adjustable legs;
• built-in furniture is fixed to the wall; a sliding system is first installed under the sliding wardrobe. Stationary furniture is completely assembled and then installed in the chosen location;
• adjustment of facades - use a screwdriver to loosen or strengthen the bolts of furniture hinges. It is necessary to ensure that there is no gap between the doors;
• checking the plane of the tabletop kitchen set, clarity of hanging the upper sections of the upper cabinets, embedding of household appliances.

The furniture assembly lesson contains general information about installation technology. The assembly of metal furniture, seating areas, sofas, beds, tables with add-ons, radius compartments is carried out taking into account certain nuances. Simple designs you can assemble it yourself without using professional equipment, but if you don’t have the skills or the right tool, and the project is quite complex, it is better to use the services of the manufacturer - professional furniture makers will assemble the product quickly and efficiently.

When assembling furniture with your own hands, you must not overtighten the fasteners, use low-quality consumables, and when using screwdrivers, you must monitor the precise movement of the bit so that the tool does not damage the panels at high speeds. It is better to remove the protective film from the parts after completing assembly.

Unpacking and studying the instructions

Nuances of assembling various designs

When it comes to assembling furniture, you need to take into account that it will not be possible to connect elements of different products in the same way - the installation of furniture structures requires special fasteners, fittings and a set of tools. There are certain nuances in the assembly process itself - you need to know them in order to work quickly, accurately and accurately. Floor installation of a bed differs significantly from assembly wall cabinets, the connection of parts of upholstered furniture and the installation of a built-in compartment are performed completely differently. Some nuances and recommendations for assembling various furniture:

• A chest of drawers is an example of simple prefabricated furniture with a minimum number of fasteners. You need to install drawer guides on the side panels. Pour a little glue into the blind holes in the sidewalls and ends of the stiffener flanges, insert the dowels and easily hammer them in, connecting the elements, and then attach the confirmations. The top cover is fixed with dowels and minifixes - a pin in the cover, an eccentric in the sidewall, then the confirmations are screwed in until they stop. The next stage is to nail the back wall, having previously checked the diagonal, assemble the drawers, install guides on them, screw the handles into the prepared holes;
• standard sleeping bed. After checking the presence of all structural parts, the base is assembled - the transverse and longitudinal beams of the frame are connected with euroscrews (confirmations) or self-tapping screws. A cross beam is fixed in the center, the lamellas are installed in specially prepared grooves. The side walls of the frame are secured with dowels and plugs. The remaining elements of the bed are fixed with bolts, the legs are screwed in, if there are any, and the mattress is placed in the base box. The double model is assembled using the same principle;
• bed with lifting mechanism. The standard model consists of a frame (base), a lifting mechanism, a mattress and internal drawers. You will need a screwdriver with a full set of attachments, a screwdriver, a wrench, euro screws with countersunk heads and an internal hexagon, a tape measure and a level. Assembly diagram: connecting three drawers and headboard parts with brackets, corners or ties with screws. In the upper part of the drawers, shelves, corners, lifting mechanism– the gas shock absorber (cylinder up) is secured with nuts with a stopper, handles and a limiter for the mattress are installed;
• Stationary cabinets are the easiest furniture to assemble. Sequence of actions: connecting the shelves with the side panels using confirmations and screwdrivers, installing the back wall made of fiberboard, for which furniture nails or a furniture stapler with staples are used. After assembling the box, check the same level of diagonals and compliance with the right angle between the elements. The next step is hanging, adjusting the facades, then all that remains is to install the shelves. If the model has drawers or roll-out shelves, guides for them are installed first;
• sliding body - a stationary sliding wardrobe with a plinth begins to be assembled by screwing the plinth to the bottom with minifixes and dowels, and then driving in support nails. The body is also assembled on minifixes and duplicate dowels; it is important to check the correspondence of opposite holes. Next, fix the back wall (nails, staples, installation in a groove), check the diagonal and angle. After this, you need to install shelf supports, guides for drawers, install shelves and a bar. If the cabinet is without a base and trim in the lower rear part, the plinth is dismantled;
• sliding door system – used for all coupe models. Built-in products do not have side walls and are often made without a roof or bottom. Installation consists of attaching shelves to the walls of the room and installing a sliding system. First, install stoppers and limiters, secure the upper guide rail, there is no need to screw the lower one. The door panel is inserted into both guides into the far grooves, the second leaf into the near grooves, and adjustments are made. After this, you can fix the bottom rail and glue the sealing brushes;
• elements of a kitchen set are complex installation; a full set of tools, diverse fasteners, and special fittings are required. Assembly begins with the preparation of the lower sections - the bottom is connected to the side walls with euroscrews, the planks are installed under the tabletop, the back wall made of fiberboard is secured (stapler, nails in increments of up to 10 mm), and the legs are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is followed by installation of hinges in the mounting slots, hanging of hinged facades, and adjustment. Drawers are assembled using the same principle. After screeding the “bottoms,” the tabletop is installed, checking the horizontal level with a building level.

The upper cabinets of the kitchen set are assembled in the same way as the “bottom” ones; the products do not have drawers, but a more complex installation is required. The upper sections are hung on a mounting strip, anchor bolts, powerful hinges or butterfly dowels on plasterboard at an optimal height of 550-600 mm from the tabletop. Important nuance in the kitchen - a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the top of the door and the countertop, the mounting rail is installed 30-40 mm below the roof of the hanging sections, installation corner kitchen start with the installation of radius or straight corner cabinet.

You can use a power tool in your work, which simplifies the attachment of a particular part to the body

Panels should be coated before assembly, not after, to avoid smudges.

When making cabinet furniture, pay attention to the fact that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners

Select fasteners after you have decided on the main material

Scheme and drawings

In order to independently assemble any furniture structure, the craftsman needs a drawing on which the technological process of installing the assembly unit is “outlined” in detail and clearly. The presence of schematic images simplifies the task. It is worth noting that the manufacturer is not responsible if customers damage wood chips, mirrors, or plastic parts during the assembly process, so the work must be done carefully, use mechanical equipment, and carefully study the attached diagram and instructions. Which useful information contains drawing:

• instructions for assembling the unit (kit). Typically, the manufacturer indicates that the order’s complete set of parts, fastening, connecting, mounting, and decorative fittings must be checked upon receipt of the goods;
• the assembly of Italian furniture or a regular set from a furniture supermarket begins in the same way - with studying the specification, which indicates the number of parts, their name, size, code;
• the specification of the fittings is indicated in a separate table, Supplies, fasteners. For ease of use of the drawing and assembly diagram, the name and size of the fittings are given - screw, bolt, clamp, confirmat, clamp;
• The craftsman needs text instructions to correctly assemble the product - the specification and assembly order are indicated for each unit, and the design details and fittings are marked on the drawing - a template for drilling holes.

The diagram on how to hang a mirror deserves special attention. There are several options for installing mirror panels. To choose the appropriate installation method, you need to consider the weight of the mirror and the strength of the base plate. Technology for hanging a mirror:

• use double-sided tape - place glued strips of tape on the surface of an MDF or chipboard, “try on” the mirror, remove the protective film and fix the glass. The work is carried out with the part in a horizontal position so that the glue on the mounting tape sets. You can hang the mirror vertically, increasing the consumption of adhesive tape;
• acrylic glue - necessary to hang the mirror without damaging the amalgam. The sealant can be applied dotted or in separate strips, distributing the adhesive over the surface indented from the edge of the mirror. It is recommended to glue the slab to the mirror part in a horizontal position. Equipment for work – glue gun, the glue dries in 24 hours;
• colorless construction silicone is quite suitable for securely hanging a mirror on a cabinet door. To firmly glue the parts, it is not necessary to apply silicone to the entire back surface of the mirror; it is enough to distribute the substance in thin transverse stripes, attach the mirror glass, and fix the decorative frame to the glued mirror.

As an alternative, you can use fastening hardware made according to the principle of clamping tabs. But the disadvantage of this method is the presence of visible parts of the mounting hardware. To avoid drilling mirrors and glass parts, accessories such as clamps are widely used. There is a large selection of products in terms of construction, design, and material of manufacture - the gluer can be made of plastic, have a transparent structure, round or rectangular shape. A clamp is a universal device that acts as a mirror holder or glass shelf holder.

Installation option - fixation with a self-tapping screw or drilling under the clamp.

An example of a diagram for assembling a children's wardrobe according to the manufacturer's drawing: place the right side on a table for assembling furniture, install the rod holder, guides, hinge counters, rods. Place the bottom on the dowels, secure the left side panel using eccentric fasteners. Insert the back wall into the groove, secure the connecting beam, and secure the left side panel. Next, the box is assembled according to the diagram - the rods are screwed in, the sides of the box are mounted, the unit is secured with eccentrics, and the bottom is secured with euroscrews - confirmats. After hammering in the thrust bearings children's wardrobe

put in a vertical position on the table for assembling furniture, mount the door hinges on self-tapping screws (the size is indicated in the drawing). The final stage of assembly is the installation of doors, rods, handles, then a drawer and shelves are inserted into the cabinet. Using such a simple and understandable diagram, which is attached in the drawing to the furniture structure, you can assemble any cabinet unit - a table, a chair, a wardrobe, a bed.

To properly assemble a furniture structure, you must have a full set of tools, connecting fittings, and decorative accessories at hand. Furniture fasteners are supplied complete with products, but there are situations when not all fittings are available, then you can choose some fasteners yourself. Manufacturing and assembling furniture - two different technological processes. In the first case, sawing, grinding, milling, and gluing equipment is required; in the second, the client assembles the product with his own hands, using a set of tools and components. Types of connecting fittings:

• confirmat (otherwise known as Euroscrew, screw tie) is an inexpensive, reliable, durable furniture connection that does not require precise drilling to add a mounting hole. Used for assembling wooden products and furniture from chipboard;
• metal and plastic furniture corners are the most simple devices for connecting parts. The products are durable, reliable, and easy to install. Scope of application: cushioned furniture, case models;
• minifix eccentric design is a common type of connection of elements, the tie of which is performed at a right angle. The mounting option is a corner minifix, designed for complex structures. Withstands many assembly/disassembly cycles;
• Rafix – an eccentric type fastening connection, the fixation of which is carried out in two mounting holes. The design of the rafix, a photo of which is presented below, is an eccentric, a plastic body, a rod, a liner (not in all products);
• self-tapping screws are devices for intersectional fastening of parts, which are convenient to use in places where shelves are mounted, or furniture hinges canopy. Self-tapping screws do not have such high reliability as Euroscrews and minifixes, but they are inexpensive;
• countersunk screw - a simple fastener, usually not supplied with furniture. The area of ​​use of a countersunk screw is the installation of shelves, back walls made of fiberboard, handles, hinges, guide runners for drawers.

A furniture corner is used to fasten perpendicular structures

Using a countersunk screw

Tenon permanent connection

The list of tools required for assembly must be selected depending on the type of furniture structure. Thus, to connect soft products, a wrench and a screwdriver for fastening hardware are used, and when installing parts of a kitchen set, connecting and mounting fittings are required for hanging upper cabinets (anchor bolts, metal hinges). Furniture units supplied ready-made are accompanied by a drawing, assembly diagram, and prepackaged fastening components. The drilling for connecting fittings is carried out by the manufacturer, so the master’s task is to assemble the furniture with his own hands according to the drawing, which indicates where the holes are drilled.

Currently, for the production of cabinet furniture, the demand for which is steadily growing, the same type of materials is used, so assembly requires a standard set of tools. We are talking only about connecting finished (processed, glued, drilled) parts.

List of tools for furniture assembly:

• A screwdriver is a tool that is easy to use and maintain, with which the master performs almost all operations - tightens self-tapping screws, minifix rods, screws, clamps, dowels. A screwdriver with a battery is used for assembling all types of furniture - coupes, dressing rooms, hallways, kitchen and bathroom sets, beds, sofas, coffee tables;
• bits for magnetic holders. Types of bits – Phillips, asterisks, hexagons. To use a screwdriver, the consumable fasteners are fixed in a magnetic holder. Cross bits are suitable for self-tapping screws with cross slots and installation of eccentric couplers. Star bits are necessary for installing built-in household appliances, hex bits are necessary for installing confirmat couplers;
• a stationery knife, a level, a tape measure - a list of tools without which assembling and repairing furniture is impossible. Using a level, they control the position of facades, countertops, doors in the horizontal and vertical plane, all measurements are made with a tape measure - if the parts have drilling for self-tapping screws or cutting with a milling cutter for minifixes, you need to check the accuracy of the holes;
• perforator, drill, jigsaw – professional tool, which may be needed for inserting a sink, making holes for communication systems, and installing the upper sections of kitchen units. Which tool to choose depends on the design of the furniture, installation features, and the need to disguise communication systems (bathroom, kitchen).

A set of hexagons, a clamp, drills and bits, as well as a screwdriver for adjusting hinges, a hammer, and pliers may be required for a craftsman to assemble furniture with his own hands according to drawings and assembly diagrams. A pencil will not interfere with your work - before you start assembling the furniture, you need to check the alignment of the holes according to the attached diagram. If they are located inaccurately or incorrectly (this sometimes happens), you will have to fix the fasteners yourself in a strictly defined place, using drilling jigs. Such devices are templates with which you can accurately make holes for drills, euroscrews, and dowels. Furniture production and assembly will be more accurate if you use overhead jigs - they are suitable for making holes on flat parts made of chipboard and MDF.

In addition to common mounting and connecting fittings, furniture structures use supports, tenon permanent connections (rods, fixation on dowels for seating with glue), ties for fixing tabletops, intersectional ties, transformation mechanisms and support rollers (upholstered furniture). All parts must be available, otherwise the furniture assembly at home will not be completed correctly.

An important point is that handles, hinges, shelf holders, canopies, legs, sliding systems, railings, moldings, that is, finishing fittings and parts of internal filling systems, are installed by the manufacturer of furniture structures. But if the model is large in size, the parts can only be connected at the installation site. In this case, professional furniture assembly is preferable to self-assembly.

Screwdriver

Pliers

Tool level

Hexagon

Screwdriver

Common mistakes

Each private furniture maker has his own secrets on how to quickly and accurately assemble furniture. Some professionals use a table to assemble furniture, while other craftsmen can mount a large tall cabinet on the floor and install the finished structure, measuring the diagonal of the room and the product.

Difficulties may arise with inserting sinks into kitchen countertops, making radius curves, for which you need to use special equipment, hanging mirrors with glue, tape, or adhesive.

To become a professional assembler, the future master must be able to draw up a project, calculate the consumption of materials, perform detailing and cutting of chipboard, MDF boards, use equipment, tools and have some design skills. Then finished products will be distinguished by impeccable quality, durability, and long service life. Frequent mistakes that novice craftsmen make when assembling furniture:

• start work without first checking the availability of the mounting kit, basic structural elements, and without studying the manufacturer’s instructions;
• Universal prefabricated furniture begins to be assembled by connecting large parts - you need to decompose all the elements into units (drawers, cabinets, tables), and try to assemble a small structure;
• they don’t pay attention to the specifications in the instructions - in vain, at first glance the parts are similar, but there are left and right elements, fronts of upper and lower cabinets, and other assembly nuances;
• ignore the need to assemble the product on a hard, clean surface. For work you need a sufficient amount of free space; you can use a device for assembling furniture;
• panels from MDF material can be damaged by using an electric tool (drill, screwdriver) - use screwdrivers until you acquire the necessary assembly skills;
• do not change the diagonal of cabinets (compartments, bedside tables, chests of drawers) before installing the back wall made of fiberboard - this leads to distortion of the part and the entire structure;
• do not take into account the assembly order specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. The result is low quality assembly, dismantling and re-installation of the product;
• they do not check the holes for fixing the fasteners, do not measure the distance between them to ensure compliance with the drawing - as a result, they have to cover the defects with plugs.

There are craftsmen from whom you can hear that they violate assembly technology in order to quickly complete the work - for example, “I hang the top of the kitchen unit before installing the lower cabinets.” Technically, this is not true - the assembly of a complex kitchen structure begins with the installation of the lower corner cabinet (often a sink), then install the remaining floor units, connect them together with self-tapping screws or intersection ties, cut in the sink, install the countertop, and only then proceed to install the upper tier of the kitchen headset There are many such subtleties in the process, and to do the job accurately, watch the video on assembling furniture.

When the master has assembled a furniture structure using simple equipment, fasteners, tools and accessories, he must make adjustments, check that there are no visible technological gaps, and that the doors are diagonal. Distributing and assembling furniture is not an easy task, but after acquiring the appropriate skills, everyone can gain valuable experience in assembling furniture units various designs. To make furniture assembly easier, the video below will help you understand the process.

This activity can be used as a business option in several steps - ordering factory furniture, delivery to the consumer in your car, installation at the installation site. Presentation of photographs assembled furniture will expand the customer base if the furniture assembler is interested in this.

Video

This article will help you assemble the cabinet wall without much mental and physical stress. You will have to work, but you will have a clear plan of action. By following which you are guaranteed to get the desired result.

It will be more convenient for you to move towards your goal by following the instructions in my article. Having achieved the result, you will experience a very pleasant feeling of pride for a man’s heart! This is worth a little sweat. And let's not forget that you are saving your family budget.

How to assemble a furniture wall

The process will move faster if you use a screwdriver. In case of emergency, Euro hexagon wrench No. 4 will help you cope with the assembly. Let's prepare additionally:

1. Phillips screwdriver or bit
2. Tape measure 5 m
3. A couple of clamps (optional)
4. Small hammer

Wall assembly

Study the product sketch. Calculate, if they do not exist, the overall dimensions of the wall. And a room for installation. There must be a gap of at least one centimeter along the length. If the dimensions of the wall and the room are equal, installation will not be possible without reducing the size of the modules.

We will eat the elephant piece by piece. The pieces are separate modules. They are usually packaged separately. We expand and check availability against the list. Mentally imagine its location in the structure. It's better to draw by hand if you don't have one.

It is more convenient to assemble the cabinet in a horizontal position, face up, in the room where the wall will be located. To do this, we free the room from things and objects that block the free space. It wouldn't hurt to have a workbench that would make it easier to assemble small modules.

After we have assembled the box, we need to check whether the height of the ceilings allows us to raise the assembled structure vertically. Having convinced ourselves of this, we calmly continue to work. If the box does not stand up, then you need to assemble the modules while standing, which will complicate the task somewhat.

Within walking distance from you, located according to the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Cabinet diagonal

Reading the assembly diagram, we attract the internal shelves. Then we turn the cabinet on its face and check the diagonals. They must be equal, the error on high cabinets is + – 2 mm. After making sure that the angles are correct, we fasten the DVPO with small furniture nails.

Before attaching the back wall, you should measure the distance from the bottom or cover to the center of the inner shelf. Having saved the size, we transfer it to the DVPO and break through the shelf along the line nails can be tightened with self-tapping screws. Additional rigidity will appear and there will be no cracks from the face.

Facade fastening

The work will be done better if it is done in. To do this, we turn the cabinet over onto the side to which the façade will be attached. And we leave enough space nearby for the location of the front door. Clean the area in advance to avoid scratching the door.

We find facade front door. We attach the loops to it and press it end side cut of the slab, to the end of the cabinet side. Aligning with the lower horizon, we tighten it with yellow or white 16 mm screws. We loosen the hinges and remove the door, having previously signed it.

Screed modules

When the horizontal work is completed, we raise the modules to their feet. We arrange them according to the sketch and level them, adjusting the legs. If there is no adjustment, we use different pads. I advise you to purchase separately reliable adjustable legs if they are not included in the kit.

Then we align the sides of the cabinets flush to each other and fix them with clamps. Using furniture ties, we tighten the cabinets, preferably in invisible places. Having pre-drilled both sidewalls for the ties with a 5 mm drill, one sidewall for self-tapping screws.

Product adjustment

We wipe the dust off the wall and eliminate visible defects. Using a furniture touch for this, in the color of the chipboard. You can buy it at a furniture fittings store. Enter the corresponding query into the search engine and the system will give you all the registered stores in your city.

We install the signed facades in their places. Slowly insert the loops into "aircraft" fastening part of the hinge to the sidewall.Use a Phillips screwdriver to create nice, uniform gaps. We glue it onto the visible heads of the Euroscrews.

Installation of compartment doors

In the wall design sliding doors coupe? Easier than swing ones! We attach the upper W-shaped track to the cabinet roof, aligning it flush with the front edge. We throw the lower running track onto the bottom of the cabinet without pulling it. We take the compartment door with both hands by the profile, facing us.

We start, from bottom to top, the door into the W-shaped track until it stops. We press the rollers from below and insert them into the strips of the running track. I dedicated a separate article to this process on my blog. So if you don’t have enough information, go ahead and read.

Conclusion

Congratulations, you have completed the task! Now you can invite your wife to hand over the project and brag about your results to your friends. By the way, this result will allow you to earn good money. Price installation work, on average is 5-10% of the cost of the product. It's not difficult to calculate.

If you need detailing of cabinet and built-in furniture, please contact us. We will definitely discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a common opinion. For a moderate percentage for my work, I, on time.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experience in the comments.

I will be very interested to hear your stories!

With good thoughts about you, always in sawdust :)

Rekun Dmitry.

Kitchens and wardrobes are almost the easiest types of furniture to assemble for novice craftsmen (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture themselves.

tree in pure form are no longer used in cabinet furniture; solid wood is considered an expensive luxury material.

Now wood is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated laminated chipboard). Most often, these boards have a thickness of 16 mm; chipboards with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm can also be found on sale. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill wardrobe doors, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes the structure is decorated with elements made from 22 mm laminated chipboard.

Almost all furniture parts are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

Laminated chipboard is cut on special machines along guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home using a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy irregularities on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off chipboard evenly with a jigsaw at home.

Edges

The most vulnerable place of laminated chipboard is when it is cut down. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, so when poor defense soon the ends may swell. Therefore, the ends are closed using edges; there are several types of them.

• • Melamine edge is the cheapest, but of poor quality. You can stick it on at home using an iron.

• • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can only be glued on a special machine, so it is done immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to the invisible ends, and 2 mm to the external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

• • ABS edge is similar to PVC, but made from environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-shaped profile - inserted into a groove previously made with a milling cutter. Rarely used.

• • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued to liquid nails at home. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude a few millimeters, so dirt will get stuck under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

Facades

Kitchen fronts and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant materials. But if you are making a drawer door inside a sliding wardrobe that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm laminated chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

You can easily navigate the standard dimensions: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm façade is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since facades serve mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge; they differ in appearance and material.

• • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture-resistant and dense compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated to look like wood. But no matter how strong the film is, over time it can come off at the edges and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

MDF facades

• • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. The glass is attached to the cover on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

• • Postforming – even higher quality and durable products. Thin plastic at the edges is wrapped 90° or 180°, thereby eliminating unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the base. Typically, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

• • Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard/MDF) lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edges or aluminum profiles. IN Lately Super glossy acrylic plastic is especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

• • Wood and veneer facades - suitable for amateurs natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there is a long debate about environmental friendliness: there is an opinion that there is so much varnish and impregnation that there is only one name left for the tree.

• • Painted facades to resemble enamel. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, and has low chemical resistance. They used to be popular due to their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

• Aluminum facades with glass are suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. Non-standard fittings are used for their fastening.

Back walls and bottoms of drawers

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDF. The smooth side of the sheet should face the inside of the cabinet/drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected to match the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the brackets will become loose and the structure may warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the drawers - a stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture LDVP

Sometimes it is inserted into a groove prepared with a milling cutter, but all dimensions must match down to the millimeter.

Most often, HDF is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you must drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a “stiffener” in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with laminated chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Tabletops

Table top – horizontal working surface, on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as in cheap dining rooms, the tabletop is made of the same laminated chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is necessary to frame it with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for the kitchen. They are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, which is covered on top with durable plastic using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops have green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. A proper kitchen countertop should have a drip tray that will prevent dripping liquid from getting onto the fronts and drawers.

Weakness Such countertops are cut edges. They are usually covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable within the first year of use. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end strip), and to protect against moisture, pre-coat the cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profiles: corner and connecting strips, which are needed for joining several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for table top

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the tabletop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, it is more practical due to the absence of seams and is inexpensive compared to glass splashbacks.

The tabletop is attached to the cabinets from below using short self-tapping screws to horizontal spacers so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone are higher quality and more durable than others. Natural stone is heavy and requires special care due to its high porosity. A fake diamond has no such disadvantages, it can be given any size and shape. The main disadvantage of stone countertops is the high price; for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a countertop made of tiles or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on regular plywood or chipboard. The base must first be covered with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: lids, tabletops, walls, facades, shelves. Each part can be either nested or invoice. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Let's look at examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be hanging.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operating stress in the floor-standing cabinet is directed downwards from the lid and in the first option is naturally transmitted through the parts to the cabinet legs.

In the second, incorrect option, the load is transmitted through the confirmat (furniture screw), and because of this it will be torn out of the part at a fracture.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we use the same fastening scheme here as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under the load of being pulled out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmations experience a fracture load (see diagram “correctly”).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products) that are used to connect parts. Most often, connections are made at right angles.

• • Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for preliminary fixation and increasing the shear load, then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

• • Furniture corners are a popular, but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the disadvantages: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Furniture corner

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that screwed-in caps remain visible. To hide them, use plastic plugs matching the color of the chipboard.

Furniture fittings

• • Handles - everything is clear here. They are usually attached with screws.
  • Legs are convenient in rooms where wet floor cleaning is often done, for example, in the kitchen. Any wood, especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate from daily contact with water. In addition, the legs can be used to level furniture on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. It is glued to the top and bottom of the cabinet door or end to soften the impact.

• • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of door opening. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
    The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and seating depth. Separate hinges are sold for glass doors; you can clamp the glass into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

Among the inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, and among the serious global manufacturers, the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest of them is to assemble a perimeter from laminated chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed onto the main frame from the inside (like the tabletop). The façade can also be secured to eccentrics as the fourth wall of the drawer.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to secure it correctly.

Drawer guides are divided into roller or ball guides.

• • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the drawer. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely; a heavy drawer in the more than half open position may simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides,” can exactly double the length. They have many balls inside, like bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

• In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of drawers with installed guides. All that remains is to install the facade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and back walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). The internal content can be anything: regular shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

Main element wardrobe - sliding doors. You can’t save on them; you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city, finding domestic Aristo sliding systems in specialized stores is not a problem.

A sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame into which they insert decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan sheets, bamboo, artificial leather (based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several such materials, which are separated by an aluminum profile. It is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m in width.

Standard profiles are designed for a sheet thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, put a silicone seal on the edge of the mirror. To prevent broken glass from injuring anyone in the event of an impact, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the reverse side.

The doors move along guides; they are installed at the top and bottom. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the proper approach, homemade furniture turns out to be cheaper and of better quality than that displayed in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the characteristics of the room.

Hello WD!

Sliding wardrobe and chest of drawers in the amount of about 17,000, including custom sliding doors:




At home I collected several pieces of furniture, I started with the kitchen, it was the most necessary at that time, then a chest of drawers, a wardrobe (only the frame, I ordered the doors assembled due to lack of time, but it’s also possible to assemble it myself) and three shoe racks . Then they renovated the bathroom, and used the leftovers kitchen chipboard and made a table for the countertops (although it would have been better to do the renovations in the bathroom first, because after sawing the plaster walls, it took a long time to clean the entire kitchen from this dust, there was dust everywhere). In assembling all this furniture, the most difficult task for me was the installation and adjustment of the kitchen facades, I will write about this separately. In terms of timing: all this happened from approximately April to December. With the kitchen, of course, there are the most problems, because it is not just a box/frame with shelves, but a bunch of small sections that must fit together correctly, and into which all sorts of appliances still need to be built. When the cut ended up at my house and I took over the kitchen, I gave up everything: beer, hookah, computer games))) In the morning at 06:30 I took my wife to the bus stop (then there were no minibuses yet), returned and assembled the kitchen , at 8:45 I was driving to work. In the evening I came and assembled the kitchen, on weekends I assembled the kitchen almost all day, the kitchen became my whole life for 3 months: D
Here is my photo report on assembling the kitchen (there is no description of the process of making furniture there) and an estimate; I won in the category “World Trends in Russian Furniture”:
sdelaimebel-konkurs....
Bring your projects to life - submit them too, this competition is annual, there are others.
There are different programs, I created all this in PRO100, there are a bunch of templates for it on the Internet. At first I tried to use these templates (in any case, you need to play with them to understand what and how is done in this program), but I realized that by typing cabinets from different projects kitchens, they need to be joined to each other and adjusted to size, etc. For me, this turned out to be an inconvenient and unreliable method, so I decided to design from scratch, from a plank. Of all the furniture, I only made the chest of drawers based on someone else’s template, slightly adjusting it. Among other things, in the properties of the boards there is a parameter - display in the report. In the templates for some parts this parameter is removed, and if you use them as a basis, you may end up not ordering something by accident. More details: in the program you can create a report on the basis of which you order a cut - a list of parts with dimensions and quantities, and sides with an edge (for each part you indicate on which sides the edge should be made: 0, 1 or 2 in width and 0, 1 or 2 in length - you can easily apply it yourself at home with an iron and sandpaper, but on the scale of a kitchen it’s long and tedious, I decided to immediately order cutting with edging). Each part can be given a name. So, this report does not display the details that are used for decorative elements, etc. (well, they put in all sorts of vases, curtains, refrigerators for clients), but it happens that in a furniture template some board is not displayed in the report, so I decided author. In short, this is all to say that it’s better to create everything yourself from a plank, so you definitely won’t miss anything))) I ordered the edge for the kitchen “in a circle” - all 4 edges with an edge - small additional protection if moisture gets on the joints, but in fact the back edges (which look at the wall) do not need an edge, in theory there is no moisture there, you can also save money, I didn’t think about it at the time of ordering.


Well, in general, everything is simple: you create a room (specify the dimensions), then you create your cabinets in it (wall, wall, back wall, bottom, lid, shelf, you can do it in any order). The thickness of chipboard for frames is 16mm, chipboard for sliding doors is 10mm, if the back wall is made of fiberboard, then 4mm (fibreboard can be second-rate, you can save a little more, the quality is tolerable, and the back walls are not visible when you fill the kitchen), the facades are 20mm (this It seems to be a standard, it could be thinner, but personally, my Forstner drill (to drill holes for hinges) with the tip pushes through a 16mm board, the outside ends up chipped, although the facades can be ordered straight away with holes for hinges, it seems). We ordered facades from MDF (Sidak company, SP-b), almost two years passed - nothing swelled. You can order cutting by the meter (they will give you only your parts, no questions asked if the order is large) or you can buy whole sheets of chipboard (1830x2440x16), they will cut them for you and give you the rest (we had two different offices in one place, and the cost was different, it was cheaper to buy sheets, plus the leftovers were used), if the order is small, they can force you to buy the whole sheet, because then they have nowhere to put the leftovers.
This is what my leftover chipboard and countertops from the kitchen were used for (I ordered green doors separately):

Remains of 10mm chipboard from sliding doors:

This is what the kitchen cut looked like:


Before assembling the kitchen, I laid a laminate floor on the floor and assembled the furniture on it, on the one hand, so as not to drag all the boxes from another room later, on the other, so that my wife would have a clean corner without sawdust and debris. In fact, if the kitchen is medium-sized, it is unlikely that it will be possible to place all the cabinets on the floor; I took some of the assembled ones into the room.

So this is what I mean: in order not to damage the laminate, I laid a sheet and assembled it on it. If your home has linoleum, then it is better to assemble it, and only then lay laminate flooring (if you have such plans) and install a finished kitchen on it. Laminate joints throughout the kitchen must be sealed with sealant.


Required tools:

- corner clamp (the most important assistant, I love it, I took a photo while I was sleeping with some boards: D),

- a screwdriver with a spare battery - one works, the other is charged (lighter and more maneuverable than a drill, although a drill drills holes faster), ideally a drill + a screwdriver - you drill with a drill, tighten the confirms with a screwdriver, you don’t waste time changing bits. If I’m not mistaken, I took a bag of 500 pieces of confirmats for this kitchen, some remained, but there wasn’t enough for the rest of the furniture, I bought another 100 or 200.
- a 6mm wood drill (for 7x50 confirmations) or 5mm (for 6.3x50 confirmations) with a depth stop and a countersink (to make recesses for the heads) - it seems like there are 3 in one (drill + stopper + countersink),
- Allen key or hex bit (I don’t remember mm) for tightening confirms,
- jigsaw (to cut into the sink and hob), you can borrow, in Leroy Merlin or Castorama they cost 300 rubles. - will roll,
- a furniture stapler - costs 200 rubles, it’s very convenient to nail the back walls made of fiberboard (although you can get by with nails), the tension is adjustable, if it’s weak, you’ll have to hit it with a hammer,
- a metal ruler (I don’t think I used a square, but I don’t know),
- Forstner drill for drilling holes for hinges in facades,
- pencil,
- roulette,
- screwdrivers (flat and Phillips),
- vacuum cleaner (there will be a lot of sawdust on the floor).
Assembly process.
It is important to remember which board you are joining to which (so that you don’t have to re-drill and fill extra holes). For this purpose, I first laid out the entire cabinet on the floor, and then began to assemble it next to it, gradually taking it out one board at a time.

I recently came across an assembly method that differs from mine. The locations of the holes in the two boards being joined are marked with a ruler and pencil, drilled separately, and then joined:
andreylappo.ru/mmebe... (in this video you will find instructions for assembling upholstered furniture)
My method: you tighten two parts with a corner clamp at an angle of 90 degrees, marking places for future holes. When assembling boxes in which all the walls and bottom are made of chipboard (and maybe not only in such prints, I don’t remember exactly), and they are also connected to each other with confirmats, you need to make an adjustment for the depth of the confirmats so that they do not bump into each other , that is, make holes no closer than 6cm from the edge)

you drill both at once (you definitely won’t miss, and they will fit together without gaps)

use a countersink to make recesses for the caps (especially important for kitchens at the junction of adjacent cabinets

You immediately twist it, glue/insert plugs if necessary, and you’re done.

Wall + bottom, wall + lid, then you connect them and insert shelves inside.



Under the cap itself, the confirmat has a wider part than the thread itself, so the board perpendicular to the confirmat is recommended in the same video to be drilled a little wider with a drill so that it does not burst. I didn’t do that, it was torn in a couple of places, but not very noticeable.
When drilling, the main thing is to take your time and maintain verticality. I remember I had already assembled several cabinets, I thought “why is it so slow, you can do it faster,” and the drill immediately came out of the wall: D Fortunately, it was the far upper corner of the wall cabinet, it’s not visible.
Some advice for specific situations:
For kitchen wall cabinets, I joined the walls from the sides to the bottom, and not vice versa (you can put the bottom, and the walls on top of it). In fact, it’s possible to do both, but for wall cabinets with heavy contents, the bottom naturally needs to be secured from the sides so that the weight of the filling doesn’t tear the bottom out and it doesn’t fall through along with the confirmations. You need to design the cabinets accordingly and assemble them by looking at your layout. For shoe racks this is not so critical; there will be no plugs on the sides.
Wall hinged cabinets 1200mm wide - there I had a small joint with a dish dryer. 2 doors, 2 sections, separated by one vertical board, not two, so it was planned as if there were 2 sections of 600 mm each, but in reality each one is a little wider. As a result, the standard dish dryer did not reach the edges, I had to tinker with the fastenings, the dryer holds up fine, but the tray sometimes falls out.
The wall part of my kitchen is slightly wider than the floor bases (this is only noticeable in the area of ​​the apron). One and a half centimeters. This is due to the fact that I did not make allowances for the fastenings of wall cabinets, which are not attached tightly to the wall, but slightly at an angle (there is a way to fasten closely, but then I did not dare to do it, there are difficulties).
In a cabinet with drawers, you need to position the drawers correctly in height so that you can cut hinges in the spaces between them or above the top and below the bottom drawer.
I made the facades with a 2mm indentation on each side (that is, for example, for a 600*900 cabinet we make a 596*896 facade), although I read somewhere about 2mm on top and bottom, 3mm on each side. Who cares, 2 was enough for me.
Loop insertion. We had an old sofa that we didn't mind. I laid the facade directly on it (on something soft so as not to scratch it, although there is a protective film), and drilled holes on it for the hinges. The main thing here is not to drill too deep so as not to damage the outer part of the facade. Drill a little - try on the loop, drill as much as you need. In this process, I was pleased with the variety of sawdust))) instead of the usual MDF chipboard shavings, some kind of pressed cardboard fell. It seems they sell templates for inserting hinges (for marking the façade), but I didn’t have any. I think I made a 4mm indentation from the edge, but I don’t remember the height calculations. In general, I didn’t approach this matter for a long time, I collected information, collected my thoughts, and after installing the kitchen I completely abandoned it for a couple of months. But in fact it’s in vain, because hanging facades by weight is possible, but it’s inconvenient. It’s easier to embed the hinges into the facade, put the base on its side, move the door towards it, open the hinge and immediately fasten the bar to the frame. By the way, in particular for cabinets with shelves, it is much easier to attach the facade when there is no shelf. If possible, assemble the frame, drill and secure the shelf(s), then remove it, hang the façade and stick the shelf back in (and for shoe racks, in this case, it is better to attach the back wall at the very end, after installing the magnet and gas lifts). And only then install the kitchen/other furniture with the facades already hung. Eh, I wish I had this advice a couple of years ago...
Do the lighting at the very last moment, when you are sure that you will not have to remove the hanging drawers. When I was hanging mine, they pierced the wiring in the wall (I hung it right up to the ceiling), and even though I fixed it, I then had to take it off a couple of times and climb into the corner again. And the diode tape is self-adhesive, which, when peeled off, remains on the surface of the cabinet. In general, it is impossible to painlessly remove it and glue it back; you will need a new self-adhesive.


The diode strip consists of sections (on mine there are 3 diodes in one section), these places are easy to distinguish close up, there are + and -, it can be cut with scissors or soldered back if necessary.
Remember about the sockets that will be behind the kitchen - they need normal access, if necessary, move them in advance. I got one behind the apron, and the second behind the cabinet with drawers. I made some of the cabinets, but not all, about 5 centimeters less deep than the countertop, leaving space between the back wall and the wall - we have pipes running there. But the cabinet with drawers was on the far left; there shouldn’t have been any holes there. It was possible to simply make the side wall deeper than the rest of the drawer, but I didn’t do that (I didn’t think about it), so I had to move the socket so that the drawers would not rest against the plug of the extension cord (you need to use it), placing it between these drawers .
Chest of drawers: the bottom of the drawers can be secured with staples/nails, but for reliability, add self-tapping screws (or better yet, screw them through the metal strips with holes), and you can even use corners at the back. This is what I did recently, after the bottom of one of the drawers fell out for the second or third time...
And most importantly, remember a few basic rules: the eyes are afraid, but the hands do, it’s never too late to learn, better late than never, but the sooner the better)) And then everything will definitely work out for you.
Thank you for reading to the end!!! :) I hope this post will encourage someone to bring their projects to life. If you have any questions, write, I will be glad to answer)

P.S. And finally, to confirm that everyone can do this, here is my 26-year-old happy face, which a year later received prizes for the kitchen)))

• April 22, 2013

It is very important to understand what material you need furniture from. Most often in furniture production are used:

• Particle boards (simply chipboard), composite wood materials and plywood.

As a rule, such materials are used to produce furniture in the “economy” price segment.

- in itself is not a very reliable material. There were cases when the material literally crumbled from one good blow with a fist.

- is also a material made from compressed wood fiber. Externally, it is practically no different from real “wood” and has sufficient strength.

- also often used in furniture making. This is a lightweight and durable material, environmentally friendly and safe. It is created from veneer sheets glued together.

• Laminate and natural veneer.

These materials are more expensive compared to the previous ones. Laminate consists of numerous layers of plastic glued to plywood. Externally, practically indistinguishable from natural wood, unlike which laminate does not fade over time. In addition, this material is quite strong and durable.

Natural veneer is a thin “layer” of rare woods, such as ebony and red, applied to a surface made of more simple materials(for example, from pine). By purchasing furniture made from natural veneer, you kill two birds with one stone. Firstly, you become the owner of furniture of the highest quality with a luxurious textured pattern. Secondly, the cost of this material is quite reasonable.

Undoubtedly the most durable and most expensive material. Ideal for structures that have to withstand heavy weight loads. They are often dovetailed and have an excellent protective coating.

After this, you need to answer some questions for yourself:

• What is the company's return policy? Is a receipt required in this case? Will you have to pay for the goods if something is damaged during transportation?
• Find out if this company has toll-free telephone customer support? This may be very useful for you.
• Do you know enough about the material your furniture is made from? For example, in many cases, materials containing wood species may be referred to as “wood.” In this case, you can get a product from both fragile pine and “strong” cherry.

Take matters into your own hands!

If the seller does not know the answer to your question and just shrugs in response, call the service center or hotline. From them you can get other useful information that is not listed on the label. Take advantage of these useful tips before making an important purchase.

Now let's talk about what you should pay attention to when buying furniture

Open parts boxes as early as possible.

The sooner you discover an unpleasant surprise, the better. This may include missing parts, scratched or chipped elements. If delivery was not carried out properly and some items were “damaged”, the company will be obliged to replace them at its own expense.

When it's time to get started, pay attention to the warning labels on the packaging, such as “top!” or “do not open with sharp objects!”. Believe me, you should not neglect these warnings.

Prepare the necessary tools in advance.

You will need exactly six of them:

1. metal measuring tape with a lock,

2. hex socket wrench (included in most off-the-shelf tool kits)

3. electric screwdriver and drill,

4. hammer or rubber mallet,

5. sandpaper with a grit size of 60 to 80 (useful for “smoothing out” worn corners), as well as a carpenter’s level to make sure. that the surface is straight.

6. cans in order to put screws, nails and other small elements in it that you cannot do without. Take the time to sort out these small details and your work will be much more efficient. Moreover, in this way, necessary details will always be at your fingertips.

Organize your workspace correctly

It is best to assemble the furniture in the exact room where it will be located. This way, you won't have to drag it up the stairs or take it apart and put it back together if, for example, it doesn't “fit” through a doorway. Take care of this in advance and you will save yourself from a lot of possible problems!

Don't forget to properly prepare your work surface!

You should only work on a hard surface - remove carpets and other decorative floor elements in advance. In addition, do not forget to cover the floor with a protective film - take care of the safety of the floors in the apartment in advance.

Try to avoid the most common mistakes when assembling furniture yourself

1. Avoid cracking the wood when using a hammer. Use insulating tape on the surface to be treated. Once the nail has been successfully driven in, the tape can be removed.

2. Take care of your fingers! A magnetic nail holder (ThumbSaver) may come in handy for this purpose. This device has a pointed magnetic head that attracts screws, nails and staples and holds them firmly in place - so it does the job for you!

3. Don't create ugly gaps between pieces. The parts must fit tightly and thoroughly to each other.

4. Don't make stupid mistakes while working. While working, you must have a clamp with a spring in your hands. This simple device will help protect your furniture from many unwanted scratches.

5. Do not try to screw screws into previously drilled holes. To easily cope with this task, you should rub the surface of the holes with an ordinary piece of toilet soap and then the screws will go into the wood much easier.

So, your furniture is assembled. Do you want to add a little personality to it and feel like a creator? Nothing could be simpler.

Here's what you can do!

Install the wheels.

“Rollers” on the legs of furniture will not only make it taller, but also easier to move. Screwing on the wheels is usually quite simple and there are no problems with it.

“Knock off your skates”!

Many bookcases have additional furniture legs. Do you want your furniture to look more modern? Then take them off!

“Reflashing” the fasteners

Many furniture models, unfortunately, use unsightly, unaesthetic door handles. When buying a new headset, make sure that it fully matches not only the design of the furniture, but also the available connectors.

Let's change the color!

You can paint any furniture in any color, even laminate. In this case you should use oil paints. Before using them, the surface must be sanded and primed.