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Caulking and insulation of the log house. Materials and technology. The better way to caulk a log house. The better way to caulk a log bathhouse.

To get rid of the gaps between the crowns and close the cracks formed during the shrinkage of the log house, apply caulk: this is the only way to retain heat inside the log house. For work you can use various materials, but the technology is the same. How to caulk a log house correctly? What's best to use for this?

What is the best way to caulk a log house? The work can be done using both natural and artificial materials. The latter are much more convenient to use, and the process takes very little time, but they have several significant disadvantages.

Natural

These include moss, tow, jute, flax wool, hemp and others.

Moss

Caulking a log house with moss has been done for a long time, and even with the advent of modern materials it has not been abandoned. This is explained by its unique properties: it not only retains heat well, tolerates sudden temperature changes, removes excess moisture without rotting, but also has antimicrobial and even healing properties.

Tow

The technology using tow is considered one of the most complex. As the log house dries out, the material will become damp, which is why it will begin to rot over time. Therefore, after drying out the house or bathhouse, the old tow is cleaned out, and then the log house is caulked again.

Jute

Moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly and durable material that retains heat well. Due to its ability to absorb moisture, it has a fairly short service life (about 3 years). Jute that has become unusable is not easy to remove from the cracks between the crowns, so it is rarely used.

There are several types of material:

Jute tow. When producing this type of insulation, the fibers are combed to give them the desired direction. The tow obtained in this way retains all the properties of jute, however ready material not very convenient for work: rigid, and at the same time not too dense. The process of caulking when using the material becomes more complicated - the work has to be carried out in several stages (during the initial laying, the required degree of density cannot be achieved).
Flax-jute. A mixed material consisting of equal amounts of flax and jute fibers. It is popular among builders, but needs protection from insects: before use it is treated with anti-moth and anti-rot agents.
Jute felt. The material, 90% jute and the remaining 10% flax fiber, has the density necessary for work, but at the same time remains flexible. The ease of use of felt makes it optimal choice. When purchasing a material, you should choose one whose fibers are longer than 2 cm - it is more elastic and flexible. The only drawback is that it can be damaged by moths, so before laying the felt, it is treated with a special protective impregnation.

Lnovatin

Insect repellent material is processed chemicals, therefore it cannot be called environmentally friendly. The service life of the insulation is up to 3 years; it is attached to the frame using a construction stapler.

Synthetic

The use of ready-made compounds - sealants - will cost significantly more than if you caulk a log house with tow. However, they are much easier to work with. Usually, in order to reduce the consumption of a synthetic product, it is used together with a natural one (for example, a cord). First, the cord is sealed into the gap, and sealant is applied on top, leveling the layer with a scalpel spatula.

Among the disadvantages of sealants:

A number of synthetic products are destroyed when exposed to sun rays– over time it begins to crumble and falls out. To protect the substance from damage, strips are installed on the seams, which protect the sealant from ultraviolet radiation.
Some compositions, after drying, harden into a dense solid mass, due to which the wood, which contracts and expands depending on humidity and air temperature, begins to collapse. It is recommended to use only flexible sealants.

Methods for caulking the walls of a house or bathhouse

Caulking and insulation of a log house can be done using two methods:

Into the set. Suitable for wide crevices. For work, use jute, tow or hemp. The selected material is divided into strands and wound into a ball.
Stretch. In this case, the heat-insulating material is divided into strips and driven into the cracks.

General rules

The initial caulking of a timber house is carried out approximately 6 months after assembly. During this period, most of the moisture contained in the timber will disappear, cracks will appear on the wood, and cracks will appear in the structure itself.

The next time the work will need to be carried out another year. By this point, the structure will have completely settled, and it will be necessary to eliminate the cracks and crevices that have arisen over the past months.

If everything is done correctly, the third time will be needed only after 5 years. However, if technology is not followed, the need to eliminate cracks may arise annually. To ensure that the caulking of a timber house is done correctly, it is worth watching a video with advice from experienced craftsmen.

Work starts from the bottom. Sequentially caulk the lower crown around the entire perimeter from the outside, then inside the log house. After that, they move on to the next one, acting in the same way.
Typically, the largest cracks form at the corners, so caulk in these places should be especially careful.
First, the material is fixed in the crack over an area of about 1 m, then the hanging parts are folded in and tucked inside. Using a mallet, the insulation is firmly hammered into the gap until the material begins to spring back. When everything is done, move on to the next section.

Caulk with moss

To work you will need:

pre-dried moss;
water;
soap;
vegetable oil.

Work order:

Add 200 g of soap and 0.5 liters of oil to a bucket of water. Mix thoroughly.
Place dry moss in the prepared liquid. Wet fibers will become elastic.
Take a strand of material, twist it into a roller, and insert it into the slot. They compact well.
Using a spatula and mallet, firmly hammer the insulation into the gap.

For the initial caulking of a log house using moss, it is recommended to use the “stretch” method, all subsequent ones – the “set” method.

Using tow

Over time, this type of insulation may harbor insects, and in order to protect it, the tow should be treated with a disinfectant.

You need to prepare:

tow;
formalin (it will act as an antiseptic);
water.

Caulking a house made of profiled timber using tow takes place in 4 stages:

Formalin is diluted with water to obtain a disinfectant solution.
All the prepared tow is placed in it and left for half an hour.
Having taken out and squeezed out the material, they drive in the tow, divided into strips, using the “stretch” method. The insulation is compacted using a spatula and a mallet to achieve maximum packing density.

Caulk with jute

This material is laid using the “set” method.

Depending on what type of material is chosen, you will need:

the jute itself;
bitumen or resin (for felt jute);
formalin (for jute tow).

Work order:

The tow is soaked in a formaldehyde solution.
The material is rolled into strands and filled into the cracks of the lower crown.
Using a tool, push in the overhanging edges.
Using a groove, level the position of the insulation layer.

Important! When processing the area around the chimney pipe, you need to leave about 3 cm of the surface untouched.

Caulking with sealant

Caulk timber house using sealant is the fastest way. To work, you will need the synthetic material itself, a cord for filling the cracks, a special spatula for smoothing the seams (you can use a narrow spatula), and a mounting gun.

The safety of a log bathhouse building largely depends on the choice of what and how to caulk the bathhouse, the ability to correctly identify future problems with the crowns, and mastery of tool skills. First of all, you need to know which inter-crown insulation to choose for a bathhouse. You can, of course, give up and seal the joints with silicone, but this will only make the situation worse. It’s still better to do a full-fledged caulking of the bathhouse with your own hands.

Why do you need to caulk a bathhouse?

Craftsmen usually answer such a question simply - so that the log house does not rot or fall apart. Without a seal, a log box becomes a cold, eternally creaking hut. If you do not caulk the bathhouse and seal the seams hermetically, then the supporting surfaces of the crowns will rot in a year or two and the log house will simply “sit down” or fall on its side to the north.

In addition to choosing how to caulk a log bathhouse, it is important to do the job correctly, so we will try to understand the means, tools and rules for caulking a bathhouse.

For high-quality seam sealing you will need:

Packaging jute, flax tow, proven over the years, or any other type of sealant with a fiber structure;
A set of tools - a wooden hammer, a spatula, a wedge knife and a hook for stripping a seam or an electric groove;
Brush with stiff bristles;
Carpentry measurer.

Advice! There are few tools, but they will all be needed for the job. The first time you can rent them. After the first appears practical experience, it will become clear how to properly caulk a bathhouse, then you can buy a good kit or make it yourself.

If you want to seal the seams with sealant, fortunately there are quite a lot of different brands and types of them sold for bathhouse needs, then in this case no tool other than a nozzle gun for a tube with liquid polymer will be needed at all. It is possible and necessary to spray the joints with sealant for a log bathhouse in one day; the technology requires laying the paste-like mass in two passes with a difference of no more than four hours. Any disruption of the process can lead to peeling of the sealant, whereas caulking the frame of a bathhouse can be done in a couple of days with interruptions.

Choosing material for padding

Traditionally, seams and joints between wooden parts are sealed with a moisture-resistant, durable and necessarily easily deformable material. Interventional insulation for a bath can be made from:

Synthetic polypropylene fibers, for example, in the form of a tape of woven and non-woven structure;
Organic fiber, primarily jute cords and flax tow;
Natural plant fibers from certain types of moss for baths.

For your information! Sometimes there is a problem of choosing what moss is better or jute for a bathhouse or are trying to determine before starting work whether it is better to caulk with synthetics or organics. You need to choose based on the degree of shrinkage of the bathhouse frame and the size of the seam between the crowns.

What is better, moss or tow for a bath?

Today, both materials are recognized as the most durable and reliable of all traditional fiber seals. In both cases, the decisive factor is not even the type, but the quality of the preparation of the material.

Moss is recognized by all masters as universal remedy for sealing crowns. Most often they try to caulk the bathhouse with red or white moss. Bunches of plants are prepared 2-3 weeks before the start of work. Before caulking the bathhouse, remove debris and dry the moss under a canopy, periodically turning over and shaking the layers.

The organic matter should remain slightly moist. After drying, the fibers turn into a springy and strong wire-like structure.

Caulking walls with moss is not difficult; you just need to correctly measure the amount of material and the force of hitting the shovel with a hammer. The easiest way is to caulk the seams immediately on the new log house, after assembling the walls of the bathhouse. After shrinkage, after a year and a half, the procedure will have to be repeated with the same material.

For your information! Often, craftsmen who undertake to caulk the walls of a bathhouse tell stories about the bactericidal properties of mosses, the ability of the plant to germinate and completely fill the gap between the crowns.

In fact, the seal can bloom and turn green only if the birds have collected seeds and grass in the spring. If you caulk with organic matter, the seal can easily become a source of problems, from the appearance of fungus to green sprouts. Therefore, you still need to be able to prepare the moss for the bathhouse for caulking. If it’s too dry, the material becomes brittle and doesn’t hold well in the gap; too wet moss is very difficult to caulk into the seam.

How difficult is it to caulk the walls of a bathhouse with tow?

Tow or combed flax fibers twisted into bundles are safer than moss or jute. Due to its soft and thin structure, working with linen material is more difficult than with any other sealants. Tow is convenient for caulking the seams on the walls of a rounded bathhouse. Interventional gaps on log buildings are too large, so the fiber has to be folded into several loops. Technologically, this does not affect the quality, but it can seriously delay the caulking process over time.

Linen tow, thanks to what remains in the fabrics a small number non-drying oils, has the best damping properties of all possible seals, both natural and synthetic. Tow for a bath is very well suited for sealing corner locks, especially hand-cut ones. When shrinking, it does not make frightening squeaks or sounds; the process itself occurs without any complications.

The only drawback is the low durability of flax fiber. In a log house, tow caulk will last up to 5 years; in a bathhouse, the fiber burns out in 2-3 years.

Jute fiber

Mechanically combed stems of jute hemp Jute Tassa produce a tough and at the same time durable fiber, which is used not only as a sealant on the walls of the bathhouse, it is an ideal material for containers and technical fabrics. Jute is produced in the form of coils, ribbons, and ropes, which allows you to caulk cracks on the walls of a bathhouse many times faster than using tow and moss.

Technical jute has only two disadvantages:

High hygroscopicity;
Susceptibility to rotting when soaked for a long time.

Jute for a bathhouse is interesting because during the shrinkage process it ideally fills the inter-crown space, especially if the log house is built from chopped logs. In this case, you only need to caulk with jute fiber and rope.

If according to the project the bathhouse building is planned to be faced decorative finishing, jute rope will simply rot in a couple of years. The tapes are laid to seal the crowns of the new log house; the rope is good for finishing the open surfaces of the walls of the bathhouse.

In fact, jute occupies an intermediate position between dense and hard moss and soft flax tow.

Synthetic materials

In addition to natural fibers, you can caulk a bathhouse with more modern materials, for example, a composite rope consisting half of polypropylene threads and wool fibers. This type of caulking ensures strong retention of the seal even when the gap expands.

Caulking with synthetics is much more difficult; in addition, polypropylene burns out and crumbles under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so for a bath it is best to use seals made of natural materials.

Seam filling technology

The process itself looks easy. In theory, it is necessary to caulk the crowns of a successfully constructed bathhouse twice, immediately after construction and upon completion of the shrinkage processes. In practice, caulking is done every three years, especially if the log has not been sanded and rounded.

First of all, before caulking the bathhouse, you need to inspect the seams, check and free the joint line from the old burnt-out seal. If the gaps in the inter-crown space of the bathhouse are supposed to be caulked with a cord or rope, then you will first need to measure the maximum drawdown of the crowns with a gauge.

This is done in order to determine the uniformity of shrinkage of the bathhouse building. If on one side the seal is pinched and compressed, and on the other it has fallen out of the cracks, then before caulking the box you need to determine the reasons for the uneven settling of the log house. At the same time, we specify the required thickness of the jute or flax hemp rope.

Sealing the material with tape

The easiest way to caulk a bathhouse is with a tape seal. After measuring the cracks, it becomes clear what width of tape should be used in this section of the log house. One end of the roll is secured in the gap at the corner, the sealing strip is carefully unrolled along the wall without twisting, a margin of 20-25 cm is left and cut off.

The ribbon laid out on the gap is carefully tucked into the gap so that the material does not sag or be stretched. Caulking begins from the widest edge, using a hammer and a wooden spatula with a rubber tip. The ribbon is pressed into the slot with light blows. It will be necessary to make 3-4 passes so that the sealant evenly and completely fits end-to-end between the crowns.

It will be necessary to caulk three or four pieces of tape before the desired joint seal can be achieved.

For your information! In this way, the cracks along the entire perimeter of the crown are sealed before it is possible to move to the next higher level.

If you caulk the entire wall at once, then one edge of the frame may rise by more than the thickness of the log, which will lead to the breakage of the upper rows of the bathhouse.

Caulk joints of tow

The procedure for sealing the inter-crown space with bundles of fibers, such as tow or linen yarn, is a little more complicated. After cleaning the seam between the logs, the future place where the tow will be laid is rubbed with a mixture of formaldehyde, alcohol and linseed oil. You can impregnate individual cords with a disinfectant mixture before laying them in the wall of the bathhouse.

You need to caulk the bathhouse wall in the same sequence as when using tape. If the thickness of the seam is small, then the material can be laid by immediately rolling cords of 2-3 mm thick from the fiber. A tightly rolled roll of tow applied to the gap, without blows, is carefully pressed into the gap with a spatula.

For the next pass, roll up a thicker cord from tow, about 3-4 mm; this time you need to caulk the seam with force. For the last pass, a thick rope is rolled up, sometimes up to 8 mm. The material is hammered into the gap so that the edge protrudes above the line of the bathhouse crowns by no more than 3-4 mm.

If there are wide cavities between the crowns, they are caulked with additional ropes made of tow with a lubricant of any rubber-based elastic adhesive. In the same way, cracks in the logs of the bathhouse walls are clogged. The repaired areas are rubbed with additional acrylic paste.

Conclusion

Before caulking a bathhouse, it is best to practice small area, in order to evaluate how correctly the embedding is performed, and at the same time measure how high the top log of the crown rises. If the force is too great, the log house can rise by 10-15 cm; with a soft seal, the walls quickly settle into place; with a hard synthetic material, the shrinkage process can take several weeks.

High-quality caulking is one of the most important guarantees of its reliable thermal insulation. Neglecting this process is highly discouraged, because what is at stake is the comfort and healthy microclimate of the steam room. But how to properly caulk a log house in order to avoid even the possibility of the formation of voids, which can negate all the thermal properties of the structure? We will look into this in detail further: we will learn the features of materials for protecting a bathhouse - jute, tow and moss, we will get acquainted with the rules and technologies of caulking, and also watch a video of direct work with a log house.

Materials for caulking

Traditional materials for caulking baths made of timber are moss, tow and jute. Let us outline the main features of each of them.

Moss. Environmentally friendly raw materials with high antiseptic qualities. Advantages: minimal thermal conductivity, high resistance to temperature changes, low cost. Disadvantages: the need for lengthy preparation for work. Purchased moss must be moistened and then dried before installation. If you collect the material yourself, you need to carefully sort it out to remove debris and soil, and also dry it.

Advice. There is no need to completely dry the moss, otherwise it will become brittle and completely unsuitable for caulking.

Tow. Material with a base of soft but durable flax fibers. Advantages: low thermal conductivity, minimal tendency to electrify, high absorbency, quick drying. Disadvantages: complexity of installation and unaesthetic seams remaining after caulking.
Jute. Thermal insulation material made of jute wood. Advantages: high strength, minimal hygroscopicity, inertness to rot, resistance to moisture, ease of installation. Disadvantages: rapid caking of the material and short service life.

Materials for caulking

General caulking rules

The main features of caulking baths made of timber:

Caulking must be done twice: the first - either directly during the process of laying the timber, or immediately after assembling the frame of the building, the second - after the final shrinkage of the log house, that is, a year or two later.

Advice. If you carry out caulking after the construction of the bathhouse is completed, do it before exterior finishing object, since the sealing material will raise the frame by 5-7 cm.

Insulation must be laid on each row of timber.
Thermal insulation raw materials should protrude 5 cm beyond the boundaries of the log grooves on both sides of the log house.
Caulking must be done both from the outside and from the inside bath walls.
The log house must be processed in a clear sequence: first, close the external voids along the perimeter of the lower frame, then perform similar actions on the inside of the building; then go outside again and process the second crown of the frame - repeat the procedure from the inside. Using the same scheme, step by step, protect the entire internal and external surfaces of the walls.

Caulking process

Caulking technologies

There are two ways to caulk a log house – “stretch” and “set”.

The stretching technology is appropriate if the voids between the beams are very narrow - almost invisible. The material is laid as follows:

form strands of insulation;
lay the resulting strands across the fibers into the voids of the log house, pushing them with a wooden spatula;
Tuck the edges of the material (about 5 cm) and use caulking to hammer them into the cracks.

If the voids between the rows of timber are deep and wide, it is advisable to use the “in-set” caulking technology:

form from thermal insulation material long strands of at least 15 mm in thickness and wind them into a continuous ball;
Gradually unwinding the ball, fill the voids of the log house with material, compacting it with caulk;
To get aesthetic seams, carefully go over the material with a road worker.

Advice. Where the cracks are different sizes, gain the thickness of the filler by turning the strands or simply twisting them into loops. In this case, first close the upper part of the voids, and then the lower.

As you can see, caulking a bathhouse is a painstaking process, the success of which depends on several factors: the quality of the material, the technology of its installation and the sequence of work. To cope with the task and ensure good thermal insulation for the steam room, carefully consider each of the indicated nuances and be patient, because caulking cannot be rushed.

How to caulk a house made of timber: video

How to caulk a bathhouse: photo

Typically, the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for your home to last a long time, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventative repairs. This is especially true for log buildings. One of the key points you need to know is how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or house that was built from rounded logs or logs usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This phenomenon occurs when some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During this process, loose connections of material may appear where previously everything seemed quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts and reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6–7 months.

The better

In order to carry out the process of compacting a log house as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to acquire not only a good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of how to use them correctly. From the devices we will need:

Caulk. This is a small device that appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Typically, to carry out tasks efficiently, you will need at least two types. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can quickly cover large areas. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed during compaction corner connections. Skilled craftsmen use a curved tool, which allows them to do the work much better, but requires special skill.
Material that will be used to fill the gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
Hammer. In this case, you can use any one you have on the farm, but it’s better if it’s a small sledgehammer.

Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with a wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft and as a result the logs are not damaged. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for themselves.

Moss

Red marsh moss is used for these purposes. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe best. You can’t lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, this may lead to the joints beginning to rot and the structure becoming unusable. But it is also not recommended to lay it dry. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g of laundry soap are added. Mix everything until the soap is completely dissolved. After this, the moss is soaked and laid to drain a little. To make the roller easier to form, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

Tow

It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remains and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic and also repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and cause harm to the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. He is good filter, which does not allow odors to pass through. IN modern material They began to add additional synthetic inclusions, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that moths love to feast on felt. Before caulking, it is treated with special compounds that repel this insect.

A modern material that is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the caulking process.

One of the most the best materials. It not only perfectly fills cracks, but also protects the inter-crown space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about them pecking it off. It is made from wood from the linden family. It is usually imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such caulking serves as a decorative finish.

Sealant

This modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

What to choose is a personal decision for each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it’s better not to skimp on material.

Technology

The process of sealing inter-crown seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.

Stretch. This type got its name due to the fact that the material stretches along the entire seam and the fibers intertwine with each other. It is usually used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so there is no point in filling them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. Using a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After this, the ends that are left hanging are tucked into a roller and compacted tightly into the seam.
Included in the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes from them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the cracks are not the same everywhere.

After the distribution of roll material, the process of sealing seams was greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, it is placed on the lunar recess roll material and secured with a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. There is no need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are laid. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.

Secondary compaction, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last. In about 4-5 years, when the building has finally settled down, it will be necessary to treat the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:

We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make the task easier.
Caulking needs to be done one by one, not one by one. Those. You need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that distortion does not occur and the building is not damaged.
You should start with outside, and then go inside the building.
You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm greater than the length of the wall. This is important, because during the compaction process folds are formed, which will be used for this reserve.
Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the gap to secure it.
Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a compaction. To do this, we lift the hanging end, tuck it in and tamp it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You shouldn’t try to hammer everything in at once, as this can lead to misalignment faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough to not allow air from the street to pass through.
We repeat the operation from the inside.
We move from the lower (flashing) crown to the upper one. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough to just carefully tuck the material in without much effort so as not to interfere with further shrinkage.

You need to be careful not to overdo the layering. During caulking, the frame is raised. If you make the backing too thick, it can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.

Insulation with sealant is much easier. To do this, purchase a special lace of a suitable diameter. It is usually made from synthetic materials. It fits effortlessly into the seam to cover the gap. After this, mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days you will have to curtain the seams on the sunny side, because... The manufacturer usually advises avoiding direct sunlight until completely dry.

The sealant is also used after application natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, you can use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate caulked joints.

Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants:

The caulking of the log house provides reliable insulation of the house for the entire period of its operation. This operation is no less important than the construction of a log house; if you treat it formally, you can end up with a cold, uncomfortable and drafty house.

Unlike brick and concrete, wood is special building material, the tree is sensitive to the conditions in which it finds itself. Caulk correctly wooden house- it means to create normal conditions for construction timber, and to ensure longevity of the structure. In addition to solving problems of insulation, caulking protects wood from excess moisture and dampness, rotting, damage by microorganisms and insects.

Wooden houses are traditionally caulked with materials of natural origin; one of the most popular is insulation made from fibers of the jute plant. In wooden house construction, insulation made from this plant, exotic for Europe and America, confidently displaces other materials; jute is widely used by Canadian and Scandinavian builders.

The reason for the popularity of jute fibers was low price and good performance, Russian market jute competes with traditional Russian flax. When the question arises: how to caulk a house made of timber, preference is increasingly given. Cottages, economy class residential buildings, bathhouses and outbuildings are insulated using jute.

In the countries of South Asia, three “harvests” of jute are obtained from one plot per year with a yield of about 2 tons per hectare; Asian producers are able to fully satisfy the needs of the world market for this product; the advantages of jute material include:

Environmentally friendly, fibers do not split and do not form dispersed dust,
The fibrous mass is homogeneous, does not cake,
Jute tape is compressed to 1-2 mm without disturbing the geometry,
Jute insulation is hygroscopic, protects the log house from excess moisture,
Jute can be used to caulk houses made of logs, beams, profiled and edged timber.

As a disadvantage, it is noted that wet jute mass can create a favorable environment for microorganisms and insects. To eliminate this drawback, manufacturers use preservative and antiseptic impregnations; you should pay attention to this when purchasing material.

Depending on the density, jute insulation is divided into tow tape, batting and felt. The material is rigid and elastic, tends to maintain its original shape, which requires attention and certain skills when using it.

How to properly caulk a log house with jute

A house is caulked in two stages: during the construction of the log house and after its shrinkage, the first operation is called primary caulking, the second - finishing. Primary caulking is done in two steps: jute tape is laid between the crowns during the construction of the log house, after the walls are erected, the seams are processed clean. When laying jute tape between logs or beams, you must adhere to the following rules:

The surfaces of the crown before caulking are cleaned of adhering dirt, shavings and sawdust, the jute tape is rolled out along one side of the wall, and secured every meter with a construction stapler. When laying in parts, the edges are joined end to end,
The tape is cut along the side edge of the beam, in a log house - along the line of the laying groove,
The dowels are driven through the jute tape, an incision is made crosswise at the puncture site,
The operations are repeated on the next crown.

The initial finishing caulking begins after laying the walls and installing the roof; caulking begins from the bottom crown. The material is driven into the inter-crown joints to a state of elasticity using a special tool, after completing work on the first crown, move on to the second. The operation is labor-intensive and requires diligence and considerable effort. According to builders' prices, the cost of this work is up to 100 rubles per meter.

After completing the work on the outside, the operation is repeated from the inside of the house; the technology for insulating a house made of timber from the outside and inside does not differ. Time spent on caulking one-story house 8x8 can be 5-7 days.

It is important. If you caulk each wall separately, you may encounter the following problem: each processed seam increases the inter-crown distance by 3-4 mm, a fully processed wall of a house made of 200x200 timber with a height of 16 crowns will become higher by 5-7 cm, which can lead to distortions in corner connections.

Caulking methods

When caulking cleanly, interventional crowns drive jute batting into the cracks, the operation is performed in two ways:

“In a stretch” - a twist-pigtail of jute batting with a diameter of 20-25 mm is driven into the crack, in this way seams with large gaps are caulked,
“To the set” - the cracks are caulked with tape insulation 5-7 mm wide, the edges of the tape are hammered into the crack one by one, then the middle part is recessed.

The craftsmen recommend laying jute tape between the crowns with an overlap of up to 60-70 mm, the free edge is wrapped, tucked into the gap and caulked “into the set”. In difficult cases, the insulation is hammered into the stretch, and the seam is finished off as a set.

After the house has been subjected to shrinkage, the previously laid layer of insulation is deformed, the inter-crown cracks open, and at this stage of caulking the log house, the work must be done virtually all over again. During the shrinkage process, deep longitudinal cracks-sinuses will appear in the body of the beam; such cracks are caulked with flax tow and sealed with sealant; for individual cracks, thermal insulation with flax material is more effective.

How to caulk the corners of a log house with jute

When caulking a log house, special attention is paid to the corners; this largely determines whether the house will be warm or not. The easiest way to work is with angles. In this case, the oblo is part of a log or timber; the jute tape is laid on common surface, as a result, each seam of the corner lock receives its own layer of insulation.

When chopping into a paw, the elements of the castle are caulked in different ways; in general, the principle is followed: each joint must be caulked.

Finishing caulking is done in order, simultaneously with the crowns.

How to choose a jute ribbon

Jute insulation is selected according to density, thickness and width. A high-density jute tape is laid between the crowns; when shrinking, the low-density insulation cakes more; the width is chosen according to the size of the timber; for rounded logs - according to the size of the laying groove. Experts recommend:

Lay the edged timber with jute tape 20-25 mm thick; under pressure its thickness will be no more than 4 mm;
For dry planed timber, use a tape 10-12 mm thick, which shrinks to 2 mm.

Intervention seams are caulked with a material of lower density; to fill cracks, jute batting with a density of 500-600 grams per square meter is used.

Caulking Tools

The toolkit includes:

A stackable caulk with a blunt blade for working “as a set”; it is better to have two types of tools: with a 10-centimeter blade for caulking crowns and a 2-centimeter blade for cracks;
The road worker for laying twists “in a stretch” has a wide blade thickened towards the bottom. A semicircular notch is made along the entire length of the blade;
Breaking caulk with a wedge-shaped blade is driven into the cracks to widen them.

The tool is made of hardwood or soft metal and has a handle that is comfortable for work. A mallet is used as a percussion instrument - a hammer with a wooden or rubber striker.

Caulk with jute rope

The walls of a house made of edged timber do not always have an attractive appearance; it is almost impossible to lay insulation between the crowns without unevenness, so it will not be possible to caulk the frame “string by thread”. You can decorate the facade using jute rope, which is laid over a layer of inter-crown insulation; the rope is secured with clapboard nails.
After finishing caulking, it is advisable to treat the inter-crown cracks with an antiseptic, effective means is a domestic drug "Neomid". The product provides long-term protection of insulation from natural material from rotting, fungus and insects. It has a liquid consistency and is applied with a brush.
If the log house is sanded after shrinkage, finishing caulk is carried out last - after sanding of the walls is completed.

Conclusion

Despite the mass production of synthetic materials, houses continue to be caulked with natural fibers that have excellent thermal insulation properties. Inter-crown insulation made from flax and jute have specific advantages and disadvantages, all best qualities combined in the increasingly popular combined material “linen-jute”.

What material to caulk with? Vacation home or a bathhouse, each developer decides independently depending on the design of the house, the local climate and other conditions.