Almost every apartment has a balcony or loggia, which you want to turn into a natural extension of the apartment. To do this, windows are installed there, insulation and interior finishing are carried out. Today the market can offer huge selection building materials, and the variety design solutions for apartments it will only fuel the desire to create something unusual on the balcony or loggia. But, surprisingly, the leadership is held by the old and proven option - finishing the balcony with clapboard. Moreover, covering a balcony with clapboard with your own hands is a task that anyone can do. It is enough to be able to use the tool, to know what and how to do it.

Types of lining

Before starting the work itself, you need to decide on the type of lining. After all, it will depend on this appearance walls, as well as the total cost of finishing the balcony with clapboard. In addition, the overall cost and appearance will be affected by whether the balcony will be finished with plastic lining or wood.

Wooden lining

The production of wooden lining is established on a wide scale, and today you can find lining from a wide variety of wood species. From the entire range of wood species, pine, linden, ash, larch, and aspen are chosen for lining a balcony with wooden paneling. If finances allow, then the loggia or balcony can be decorated in an antique style with specially aged oak lining. In fact, it doesn’t matter what breed will be used, it all depends on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner. But there is one important nuance. Such a high popularity of pine or linden is due to the ease of wood processing and affordable price. Therefore, if you want to decorate your balcony with clapboard yourself without any hassles, choose soft wood species.

When choosing lining for cladding a loggia or balcony, you should immediately decide what the end result should be. Since this will determine what class of lining it is advisable to buy. There are four such classes in total - Premium (“0” or “Extra”), A, B, C.

The most expensive, but also the highest quality is Premium class. This lining is without knots, core, perfectly smooth and uniform in color. Class A lining lower in cost, without a core, strips of uniform color. May contain 1 knot or resin pocket per 1.5 linear meters. Average in cost class B lining. It contains up to four knots or resin pockets, the strips are uneven in color and poorly finished. The cheapest class C lining. The planks are poorly processed, there are many knots and resin pockets on them, there are cracks and a clearly uneven color. When finishing a balcony with clapboard, the price will depend primarily on the wood used and the class of the clapboard itself.

In addition to classes, the lining has several types of profile: “Tongue and groove along the length”, “Tongue and groove and chamfer along the length”, “Soft-line”, “Euro”. It should also be noted that pedantic Europeans tried to minimize waste when covering with clapboard, and all planks were adjusted to a certain size. This type of lining is called “Eurolining”, and it is distinguished by its asymmetrical type of connection, ergonomics and the presence of grooves on the back side for condensate drainage. But if you compare strips of different linings, the difference will only be in size, depth and type of connections.

By plastic lining we mean ordinary narrow wall PVC panels. They were called lining because of their similarity to wooden planks. Covering a balcony with plastic clapboard has a number of significant advantages over wooden clapboard. The main advantages are low price, immunity to high humidity and ease of surface care. The main disadvantage is its artificial origin. Plastic lining does not have such a large division into classes and types as ordinary wooden lining. Therefore, the choice here consists only of selecting the appropriate color, size and determining the quality of the product.

The color range of plastic lining is huge. You can choose one for every taste. The main thing when purchasing is to ensure that all panels are from the same batch and the same tone. Also, when choosing and purchasing PVC panels, you should pay attention to the quality of the product. To do this, you need to pick up the panel and inspect it. The first thing we pay attention to is the thickness work surface. The thicker the better. The second is the number and condition of the internal stiffeners. The more there are, the better, and the ribs themselves should be even. Third is high-quality raw materials for the panel. To do this, you can bend the edge of the panel and return it back. If after this there is no trace left or it is hardly noticeable, then the panel is of high quality.

It is up to the owners to decide which lining to choose, plastic or wooden, depending on their preferences and capabilities. It should only be noted that the issue of choice must be approached with all responsibility. Since the installation process itself, the final result and service life will depend on the quality of materials.

Preparing for clapboard covering

Before clapboard covering of a balcony or loggia is completed, a number of preparatory work will have to be done. These include purchasing in the right quantity necessary materials and wall preparation. The latter is especially important, since wooden lining can become covered with fungus or mold over time.

Tools and materials

Interior decoration The construction of a clapboard balcony begins with measurements and the purchase of the required amount of materials. There are no particular difficulties with measurements. It is enough to measure the height and length of the walls of the balcony or loggia and calculate the total area. Then measure all door and window openings and subtract their area from the total area of ​​the walls. As a result, we get a clean area for clapboard covering.

After taking the measurements, you can go for materials. In addition to the lining itself, you will also need wooden blocks 60x40 and 60x15 mm. It should be taken into account that the bars will be used for the sheathing. Beam 60x40 mm will be used for the main sheathing that holds the vapor barrier and between the bars of which insulation will be laid, and timber 60x15 mm for surface, holding the second layer of vapor barrier. We also purchase insulation 40 mm thick, impregnation against fungi and mold, superdiffusion membrane And single-layer vapor-permeable membrane, varnish. Still needed planed board 20 mm thick for a window sill of a width convenient for you. To decorate the slopes, you can also take a planed board, but with a smaller thickness of 12 - 15 mm, and the width of the board will be equal to the thickness of the walls on the slopes. Polystyrene foam is often chosen as insulation, but you can also choose stone wool. It has excellent thermal insulation properties and is more environmentally friendly compared to polystyrene foam.

If the balcony is covered with plastic lining, then in addition to the PVC lining itself, you will also have to buy moldings. They come in several types, and each is used in a specific case. There are moldings for the ceiling, connecting, end and starting, for external and internal corners. Their number is quite easy to calculate; just look at the balcony and count the number of corner joints. Another important point is to purchase short self-tapping screws with a wide head for attaching PVC panels to the sheathing.

The tools you will need are an impact drill or hammer drill, a screwdriver, a hammer and a hammer, a hacksaw mallet, and a brush. And, of course, a tape measure, level, pencil or marker. You will also need some Consumables- these are liquid nails, fastening clamps for lining, nails for lining, screws and dowels 6x60.

Preparatory work

All work on finishing a balcony or finishing a loggia with clapboards is done with your own hands after the windows are installed and the floor is laid. But in addition to the windows and floor, there are still walls to which the sheathing will be attached. It is with them that the main work will have to be carried out in preparation for clapboard covering.

Firstly, It is necessary to check all walls for cracks and damage. If any are identified, you will have to seal them and allow them to dry completely.

Secondly, check the walls for unevenness. This can be done quite simply - by attaching a long level to the wall. If large humps or dips with a depth of more than 10 mm are identified, then you will first have to start leveling them out. Otherwise, after covering it with clapboard, the entire wall will look very crooked, and the wooden frame will move over time, and the clapboard strips will come off. Of course, you can put pads under the bars, but over time they can dry out, which will lead to the frame and lining dangling.

Third, treat the walls and frame bars with a special impregnation against fungi and mold. This measure is strictly necessary, since a balcony or loggia is more susceptible to atmospheric influences than residential premises. And wood can deteriorate quite quickly. After treatment with impregnation, the wood and walls become protected from this scourge. But the protection period is limited, so you will have to carry out minor repairs and re-processing every 10 - 15 years. There is another option for protection against fungus and mold. It consists of treating the walls with PVA putty. It creates a moisture-proof barrier. But this is also a disadvantage. Since the walls stop “breathing”, all the moisture accumulates inside the structure and can lead to the appearance of fungus. After treating with a protective composition, let the surface dry and then proceed to further work.

Important! It so happened that among the people, a balcony and a loggia have become identical concepts. Although it's perfect different designs. A balcony is a part of a building with a fence protruding from the plane of the facade. The loggia is part of the building and is surrounded on three sides by walls. In this regard, covering a loggia with clapboard is somewhat simpler, unlike a balcony. Since on the balcony it is first necessary to create reliable walls for lathing. Therefore, the price of materials and labor for covering a balcony with clapboard can be several times higher. Also, finishing the loggia with clapboard imposes less stringent requirements for insulation and moisture protection of the clapboard.

Cladding

The work itself on finishing a balcony or loggia with clapboard should be done in two approaches. The first is the creation of lathing, insulation, vapor barrier. The second is covering with lining strips. It should be noted that the finishing of the loggia with wooden lining and plastic lining are in many ways similar to each other.

Finishing a loggia with clapboard video tutorial:

Frame creation and insulation

The first thing we start with is marking. We apply it for the frame strips. Depending on how the lining will be installed - vertically, horizontally or diagonally, the sheathing strips will also be placed. For diagonal and horizontal lining, we install the strips vertically. For clapboard strips fixed vertically, the sheathing bars will be installed horizontally. The pitch for the frame planks in both options is 50 - 70 cm. In this case, the first and last planks are always installed at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. It is also worth remembering that the width of the sheathing bar is 60 mm, and the line, according to which the bars will be equal to is their upper limit. When marking, make sure that the lines are strictly horizontal or vertical.

Having completed the markings, cut the bars to the required length. Then, placing a block under the line and pressing it tightly, we drill holes for fasteners in the block and the wall. This can be done with either a drill or a hammer drill. The pitch of the holes is 40 - 50 cm. In this case, the first and last holes are located 5 cm from the edges. Having made the holes, insert the dowels there. Next you need to expand and attach the superdiffusion membrane to the wall. For this you will need liquid nails. Having secured the membrane at several points with their help, you can install it in place and fasten the sheathing bars using self-tapping screws.

The next step would be laying insulation inside the sheathing. Everything is quite simple here. If necessary, we cut the insulation itself to the size of the opening between the bars and lay it tightly inside. When working with mineral wool, you should adhere to safety precautions and perform all work wearing gloves, a respirator and safety glasses. We lay a single-layer vapor-permeable membrane on top of the laid insulation, first securing it with liquid nails, and then finally fixing it with bars measuring 60x15.

Cladding

Having created the frame, we begin to cover it. There are several options for securing the planks - vertically, horizontally, diagonally. Which one to choose is up to you personally. The photo showing the finishing of the loggia with clapboard shows how two methods of fastening the planks were used at once.

We begin installation work with cutting strips of the required length for the area under the windows of a balcony or loggia. Next, take the first plank, cut off the tenon from it and apply the cut to the wall. Now we fix the bar itself. There are several options here - using clamps, nails driven in obliquely or straight, as well as through fastening with a plug. The simplest and at the same time neatest method of fastening is using a clamp. Its advantage is that the fasteners themselves will be hidden, and the lining strip will remain intact. The photo showing the paneling of the balcony shows options for attaching the paneling.

Performed fastening the lining with a clamp in the following way. Holding the first plank tightly, we drive a couple of nails, one into the top bar of the sheathing, and the second into the bottom. We do not drive the nails in completely, but so that they hold the bar in place. Then we take the clamps and wind them so that they fit tightly, pressing the lining strip. Then we take nails and finally secure the clasp itself. Initially, remove the nails securing the strip. That, how to secure using clamps when covering a balcony with clapboard video tutorial:

Further steps for covering the balcony with clapboard will be as follows. Let's take it the next panel and insert its tenon into the groove of the previous one and press it tightly. In order for the bar to sit in place, it must be finished off. To do this we use a mallet. Then we simply secure it with clamps according to the algorithm described above. We press down the heads of the nails with a hammer. We repeat the entire procedure for all planks. The closing strip of the lining must be cut lengthwise so that it fits freely into the remaining space. We finish off the bar itself using a special clamp, and fix it with nails driven in directly.

Having finished with the wall under the windows, we move on to higher walls. In essence, all the works are similar to those described above. But there is one important point. If the lining strips are short and do not completely cover the distance from the floor to the ceiling, then they will have to be placed with additional space. This is done as follows. First, install the long bar and secure it. At the same time, we make sure that the edge lies on half of the sheathing bar. Then we take another bar, but this one is short, and fasten it as a continuation of the long one. Next, we start with the short one and add the long one to it. The result is a staggered placement of the planks.

When all the work on installing the lining strips is completed, we move on to window sills. There are no particular difficulties in this. There is a special gap under the windows for a window sill. Therefore, you can cut the board to the required length, then foam the base. Place the board under the windows and press it down. The main thing is to check its horizon in advance so that the window sill does not fall over. Finally, leave the board under a 10 kg press over the entire plane. This is necessary because the foam can lift it up. Finally, we install the baseboards on the floor and ceiling.

Sometimes, in order to hide the fastening of the first and last planks, plinths are installed in all corners of the balcony or loggia. The protruding corners of the lining are closed with special external corner connections, which can be purchased together with the lining. Further finishing of the balcony with wooden lining will consist of sanding the surface and opening it with varnish. After which all work can be considered completed.

Finishing a balcony or loggia with PVC clapboard is in many ways similar to finishing it with wooden clapboard. But the process itself is somewhat simpler and faster. Plastic lining strips are installed in the same way, but instead of clamps, short self-tapping screws with a wide head are used. All corners are hidden by moldings, and finishing, sanding and opening with varnish is not required. In the photo showing the finishing of the balcony with clapboard, you can see what a balcony covered with plastic looks like.

Using plastic to decorate a balcony with clapboard video tutorial:

How to cover a balcony with clapboard? This question always arises before a home craftsman who decides to use this natural material to decorate his balcony. During a comprehensive renovation of this additional space, including glazing and insulation, the problem of choosing the interior finishing material inevitably arises. And the most popular and best natural material is a wooden lining.

In addition to wooden lining, balcony walls are often finished plastic panels. Their advantages include attractive appearance, ease of installation and good weather resistance. However, the disadvantages of plastic are also well known: air tightness, chemical emissions, condensation accumulation, the appearance of fungus, zero insulating properties.

Wooden lining is free from all these disadvantages. Environmentally friendly, breathable, excellent insulating material - plastic cannot be compared with lining in all these respects. Hence, better finish It’s impossible to find anything better than wooden lining for a balcony. In this case, it is better to use coniferous wood paneling (spruce, pine, cedar), since it is less susceptible to rotting.

Necessary materials

Balcony finishing with clapboard with your own hands should begin with calculating the required amount of material. To fasten the lining, you need guide rails that form the mounting frame. Typically, slats with a rectangular cross-section of 20x40 mm are used. If insulation, for example, mineral wool, is used, then the thickness of the slats should be chosen equal to the thickness of the insulation.

Please note: most often the lining is placed vertically. In this case, the vertical distance between the horizontal guides should be from 40 to 60 cm.

Depending on the height of the balcony, we determine the number horizontal guides. Having measured the perimeter of the balcony, we multiply it by the number of horizontal lines, add to this number the perimeter of all existing windows and doors and get the required footage of the guide rails on the walls of the balcony. Similarly, we calculate the footage of the ceiling guides.

The guides are fastened with dowels. The distance between them should be no more than 80 cm. How to cover a balcony with clapboard using all this data? We calculate the required number of dowels for the walls and ceiling.

To determine the required amount of lining, you need to know its maximum length, that is, the height of the balcony, and the total area of ​​the walls and ceiling. In this case, you must remember to subtract the area of ​​windows and doors from the total area. To the results obtained we add 10% for various defects and waste.

Tools you'll need

Cladding the balcony with clapboard will require the use of the following tools:

• hammer drill or hammer drill
• drill with a diameter of 6 mm
• electric or battery-powered screwdriver
• wood drill bits with a diameter of 6 mm, 4 mm
• Phillips bit ph2
• jigsaw with wood saw, reverse action
• wood hacksaw
• square and tape measure
• construction level
• ax and hammer
• dowels 6x60, 6x100
• nails 30 mm, with large head,
• wood screws 50 mm, 75 mm, 90 mm

Before installing the frame, it is necessary to check the level of the wall. Installation of the frame should begin with the guide that is allocated less.

Frame installation

First of all, it should be on concrete walls put waterproofing film. Then you need to saw off the guide rail to the required length. On it, after 60-80 cm, you need to evenly mark the holes for the dowels and drill the holes with a wood drill with a diameter of 6 mm. Applying the strip to the wall at a distance of about 10 cm from the ceiling, we put marks on the wall through the holes. Then, using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, you need to drill holes in the wall to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Next, you should insert the plastic choppers and attach the screws. The rail must be set so that it is level. This is done using wooden wedges. As practice shows, the dowel holds better if you do not finish it by 7-10 mm, and then screw it in with a screwdriver until it stops.

The bottom rail must be fixed 1cm from the floor. In this case, it is necessary to determine the distance of its removal using a plumb line or level. It must be secured in the same way as the top one. The remaining slats should be strengthened evenly between the top and bottom slats, no more than 60 cm apart. The same principle is used to install the frame on other walls and ceilings.

The insulation is placed between the slats. The installation technique depends on the type of insulation. When finishing window and doorways It is necessary to install vertical and horizontal slats around the perimeter of doors and windows in one plane with a common frame.

Fastening the lining

Cladding with clapboard should begin from the ceiling and only then move on to the walls. Wall covering should be started from the least convenient corner to make it easier to complete. The lining has a groove on one side and a ridge on the other for inserting the next plank into the groove.

The first lining must be nailed into both the groove and the tongue. You need to drive a nail into the comb into the part of the plank that overlaps the next one. In this case, it is better not to hammer the nail to the end, but to hammer it down with a hammer so that it does not interfere with the next plank. Then the second plank is placed so that its tenon coincides with the groove of the first lining.

Important: by lightly tapping you need to achieve a minimum gap between the slats. Only after this can it be nailed to the sheathing slats.

We cover the ceiling and all walls in the same way. After this, you can begin finishing the slopes. You need to start from the top of the slope, and then move to the sides. The first rail must be attached to the window or door so that the latter protrudes beyond the trim. In this case, you should carefully remove the ridge from the first plank in order to later dispense with the plinth. It is advisable to fit the side planks to the top as tightly as possible, so as not to install a plinth or flashing. Having completed the finishing of the slopes, you should install the casing and baseboards.

Finishing work

After completing the covering of walls, door and window openings, you can begin Finishing work. They come down primarily to choice, how to cover lining on a balcony. Since the surface of the lining is ideally smooth and even, with a clearly visible wood texture, the finishing work consists mainly of covering the lining with several layers of varnish. This will protect the wood and give the lined surface an elegant look.

For more reliable protection against fungus and mold, you can use bioprotective impregnation. It also has a very large selection of colors, and after 2 or 3 times of coating, the appearance of the lining will not be inferior to a varnish coating.

In our article, we tried to figure out how to cover a balcony with clapboard without resorting to the help of specialists. After such covering, your balcony will become much warmer, drier and more comfortable. Especially if you carry out vapor barrier measures (use waterproofing film) and thermal insulation (lay insulation). And if you carry out all the work efficiently, then neither summer heat, nor the winter cold will pose any danger to your balcony.

How to cover a balcony with clapboard: photo

Below are photographs on the topic of the article “Liquid plastic for windows “Cosmofen”: advantages and applications.” To open the photo gallery, just click on the image thumbnail.

How to cover a balcony with clapboard

We also invite you to watch the video on the topic of our article. The presented video shows in detail the entire process of clapboard covering a balcony or loggia.

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Discuss the article

To the entry “How to cover a balcony with clapboard: detailed instructions" 7 comments

And my loggia is lined with larch clapboard. What can we say? It’s easy to breathe on the loggia, you can feel the characteristic and very pleasant smell of wood. It looks very beautiful when combined with decorative lamps and specially selected furniture. I did not varnish it since the stock is glazed and insulation is done. In a word, lining is the optimal solution for a protected balcony.

When my husband and I discussed the issue of finishing the balcony, there were no disagreements - we decided to cover it with clapboard. We have a southwestern side, the sun bakes mercilessly in the summer, so materials like plastic are no longer needed: it is unknown what will be released into the air at such high temperatures, and the lining smells wonderful of wood! In addition, it gives the balcony a very cozy look, reminiscent of a veranda in country house. In the summer I take it out onto the balcony houseplants, and we get a wonderful island of wildlife.

At first we thought of tiling the balcony, but decided that in winter the tiles would get very hot from the frost. We chose a more environmentally friendly material - lining. We covered it with lining ourselves, based on the article. We chose lining made of pine wood, our side is sunny, and when heated in the sun, the lining gives off such an aroma as if in the forest. Although we are not experts in this matter, we managed to sheathe it with almost no jambs.

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We have a loggia on the 4th floor; in winter it was very cold to go out onto it, so we decided to insulate it a little and cover it with clapboard. My husband and I did everything together. The floor and walls were insulated with layers of polyurethane foam, a heated floor was installed, and the top was lined with clapboard. At first we were afraid that it would be dangerous to do an electric heated floor and clapboard cladding together, but they reassured us and explained that everything had already been thought out for us and it was safe. My husband made different shelves in the walls, a convenient small storage room. The top was covered with yacht varnish, pine color. Everything looks very beautiful and cozy, the loggia has become much warmer. Now you can safely go there even in winter, I’ll even put flowers there now.

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Self-cladding clapboard balcony - a guide for lovers

Over the past couple of decades, a lot of new and fairly high-quality finishing materials have appeared on the market. But cladding the balcony with clapboard still does not lose its position in the popularity ranking. There is an opinion that only professionals can do this kind of work, but I can assure you that this is not the case. Any normal owner who is not afraid of a drill and hammer can handle this. Today I will tell you how to properly cover a loggia or balcony with clapboard, without outside help.

What is lining and what types does it come in?

This type of finishing got its name due to the fact that in the first half of the twentieth century, it was customary to line the inside of railway cars with thin planks. Later, grooves began to be cut on these planks, their quality improved, and the name “stuck” to this type of cladding.

Types of material

Previously, the lining was exclusively wooden, but progress does not stand still. Now the market is actively using MDF, plastic and aluminum lining. The fact is that materials change, but the principles and method of installation remain the same.

It is not so important what the planks are made of if you know step-by-step instruction, then you can work with any material. After all, in general, they are mounted in the same way.

However, when lining a balcony with clapboard is mentioned, people usually mean wooden slats. You can often hear talk about the so-called eurolining. Out of ignorance, people begin to attribute some fantastic qualities to it and, by analogy with the name, believe that this material is imported.

In fact, since Soviet times, GOST 8242-88 has been in force for all such products; there were several approved standard sizes, which, by the way, are still produced to this day.

When the Iron Curtain collapsed and imported goods began to enter our market, lining produced according to the European standard DIN 68-126 appeared. It differs from our products only in clearly fixed dimensions.

The plank has a total width of 96 mm, working, that is, a front width of 88 mm and a thickness of 12.5 mm. Plus, there are longitudinal cuts on the back side. They serve for ventilation and compensation of deformation processes.

The front side can have 2 finishing options. The plank with straight bevels is called Standard, and the one with rounded corners is called Soft Line. That's basically the whole difference.

The vast majority of eurolining that is now sold in stores is made by domestic manufacturers. Protection or any additional processing of wood is not provided for by European standards. So, only the manufacturer decides how to process your product and whether to process it at all.

When they tell you that covering a balcony with clapboard made according to our GOST is harder than with euro-lining, don’t believe it. If the planks belong to the “Extra” class or to the “A” class, working with them is easy and simple, regardless of their dimensions and configuration.

Finishing the loggia with lining made of plastic or MDF is also quite widely used. There are several reasons for this. Of course, the main criterion is the cost of the product; the price of plastic is lower than that of natural wood. At the same time, good, high-quality MDF costs about the same as wood.

Due to objective reasons, the range and colors of plastic and MDF are wider than those of traditional lining. And finally, these planks are thinner, which you will agree is very important for our balconies with their more than modest dimensions.

Of course, it is believed that decorating a balcony with natural wood is still more prestigious than covering it with PVC or MDF panels. Although, to be honest, the appearance of a good MDF lining is sometimes much better than that of an average wooden lining.

As for aluminum lining, it is practically not used for internal cladding of loggias or balconies. But she has no equal in exterior decoration. Metal is metal, for aluminum it doesn’t matter whether your side is sunny or shady; with proper installation, such cladding will last indefinitely.

What are lining classes

IN in this case Only wooden planks are divided into classes. Plastic, metal or MDF, of course, have some kind of division within directions, but they do not have classes.

Lining, with very few exceptions, is made from almost all industrial types of wood. But do-it-yourself balcony cladding is often done with coniferous planks, mostly pine or spruce.

Although I would rather use larch or aspen for a balcony, since they do not rot and are not afraid of fungus, the only problem is that the price of these planks is at least an order of magnitude higher.

However, classiness does not depend on the type of wood. It depends on the appearance and number of defects. That is, the presence or absence of knots, wormholes and resin pockets.

As well as the condition of the joining grooves and the level of surface treatment. To make it easier for you to understand this topic, I have sketched out a small table.

Classes	"Extra"	"A"	"IN"	"WITH"
Characteristics	There should be no defects, deformations or resin pockets at all. Perfect appearance. The presence of knots is not provided. Vacuum packaging is required.	Light roughness on the front surface is allowed, no more than 5%. The presence of fused healthy knots is allowed, no more than 2 pieces per 1 plank.	Up to 4 knots are allowed on 1 plank. Cracks up to 30 mm long and no more than 1 mm wide are allowed. A maximum of two small resin pockets are allowed.	Any defects that do not affect the quality of installation are allowed, with a total area of ​​up to 20%. The number of knots and resin pockets is not limited. Cracks are allowed, but they should not be through.
Average price of pine lining 1m²	450 - 750 rub.	240 – 500 rub.	140 – 350 rub.	90 – 230 rub.

Don’t blame me, but as an example, I took the price of pine lining, since more than half of the owners choose it for cladding their balconies and loggias.

If you have started a major, expensive renovation of the entire apartment, then it makes sense to spend money on “Extra” or “A” class cladding. For a budget option, it’s quite possible to take class “B”; of course there will be more knots there, but some people even like it.

From experience I can say that finishing with class “C” wooden lining is used only on those balconies that are initially planned to be painted. The fact is that such a low-quality product cannot be left without treatment at all, and tinting and varnish will not be able to hide such gross defects.

Preparation highlights

• Before finishing any room with clapboard, you must first decide on the direction of laying the planks; this largely determines how much clapboard you will need to buy. In general, it can be laid horizontally, vertically and diagonally. So, with horizontal and vertical cladding, you will spend an average of about 10% of the material on trimming. With the diagonal laying method, about 30% of the lining will go to waste;

• Again, the visual effect depends on the direction of installation.. If you are planning a thick ceiling, then it is better to mount the planks vertically. This method allows you to visually raise ceilings. A small balcony will appear much wider with a horizontal installation method. Laying diagonally is considered universal;
• As I already said, pine is considered the most suitable option for balcony. But on the sunny side, coniferous lining will constantly release resin. If you want to get a bright and clean loggia, it is better to buy linden. Hardwoods have an extremely low percentage of resin. The most expensive and, accordingly, prestigious are oak and ash, although by paying once, you will receive the most durable cladding;

• Another important thing here is how to choose the material.. The annual rings on the wood should not protrude beyond the edges of the planks. All cuts must be even, and the planks themselves are cut strictly in the direction of tree growth;
• An important point is also the moisture level of the wood.. Freshly sawn, damp wood will certainly become deformed during the drying process. As a result, after a year such cladding will warp and completely lose its original appearance. Try to take vacuum-packed lining; as a rule, its humidity level is close to the standard.

Cladding the balcony with clapboard

For beginners, it is best to start with horizontal or vertical installation. Diagonal, and even more so mixed laying requires experience. Personally, when I installed the lining diagonally for the first time, I ruined at least 40% of the planks. So think about whether you are ready for such sacrifices.

Now let's talk about how to cover your own balcony with clapboard. The whole process is divided into several stages:

• The first stage is glazing and thorough sealing of the balcony. Here it is better to immediately order plastic windows and not suffer. At the moment, a better option than this has not yet been invented;
• Next, it will be necessary, if possible, to completely tear off all the old cladding from the walls of the floor and ceiling, if any, and at the end treat the balcony with antiseptics;
• After this, the carrier is mounted wooden sheathing and insulation is laid;
• When the sheathing is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of the lining;
• And finally, at the last stage we will talk about the best way to cover your lining. A balcony is a special room and you cannot leave a tree unprotected here.

Dismantling old cladding

I see no point in writing about glazing, since in the case of plastic windows, this will be done by professionals. You will need to tear off all the old cladding and prepare the walls.

If there are large cracks on the walls, they need to be puttied. The fact is that such cracks necessarily contain fungal and mold spores. And if they are not destroyed, the fungus will begin to actively grow under the wooden cladding.

Personally, I did this. I widened and cleaned all visible cracks using a grinder. After which I covered everything with ordinary alabaster. If you don’t like alabaster, you can buy specialized putty with an antiseptic effect, but it will be a little more expensive.

Some craftsmen recommend pre-plastering the walls. There is nothing wrong with this advice, but I don’t see much need for such finishing. What really needs to be done is to cover the walls, floor and ceiling with an antiseptic.

In a budget option, you can use a five percent solution copper sulfate. But I do it differently. Now the so-called white impregnation is sold on the market.

This is an antiseptic based on PVA glue and is relatively inexpensive. For one balcony I take a 20 liter canister.

This impregnation is suitable for both concrete and wood. First, I process all the walls, floors, etc. a couple of times. And I use whatever remains to impregnate the wooden sheathing bars.

Installation of load-bearing sheathing and insulation

Installation of wooden sheathing and insulation of the balcony are two inextricably linked processes. Insulation can be light or major. Light insulation involves covering all surfaces with foil penofol, after which a load-bearing wooden sheathing is placed on top.

Foil penofol is polyethylene foam coated on one or both sides with a layer of aluminum foil. The thickness of this fabric ranges from 10 to 15 mm. In this case, the layer of foil should be directed towards the inside of the room.

When thoroughly insulating a balcony or loggia, the procedure will be slightly different. Here, a wooden sheathing is first installed, and then insulation is laid into it.

In the case of light insulation, the sheathing is only needed to attach the lining to it, so the bars can be taken with a thickness of about 25 - 30 mm. It is not recommended to install thinner ones, as the bars may split when driving nails.

For major insulation, I use a 50x50 mm block. This thickness was not chosen by chance. If you want to get a really warm balcony, then the thickness of the foam or mineral wool should be at least 50 mm.

For horizontal installation of the lining, the load-bearing sheathing is packed vertically. Accordingly, for vertical or diagonal installation of planks, the sheathing is mounted horizontally. In both cases, the distance between the slats is about half a meter.

I prefer to work with foam. It is easier to install and lasts longer than mineral wool. The sheets are simply laid in the sheathing, and all gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

In the case of mineral wool, a vapor barrier will need to be placed in the sheathing, then the mineral wool, and on top there is another vapor barrier. The fact is that cotton insulation is afraid of moisture and if proper protection is not provided, the wool will quickly become wet and become completely unusable.

But there is another important point here. The lining cannot be sewn close to the insulation. There must be a ventilation gap of at least 15 - 20 mm between the insulation and the cladding, otherwise the wood will rot.

Therefore, after laying the insulation, I stuff another row of strips onto the wooden frame to ensure this very ventilation gap. It is on these strips that the lining will be mounted.

Some craftsmen additionally glue foil penofol onto the foam. And already on top of it they fill the sheathing strips under the lining. This “sandwich” increases the thermal insulation of the balcony by at least 30%. But of course you will also have to spend money on penofol.

Fastening the lining

The lining can be stuffed in several ways. The planks are fixed with nails, self-tapping screws, a stapler or clamps. At one time I tried all the fastening methods, and I can say with full responsibility that in the case of wooden lining it is best to use clamps.

Plastic and MDF planks are easier to fasten with a stapler or self-tapping screws. There is another option here - fixing with clamps, but in this case you will have to buy special guides with a central groove along which these clamps move.

The installation itself is quite simple. Any lining is connected according to the tongue-and-groove principle. We start the trim from the door or from the near left corner. We will move from left to right, that is, clockwise.

The first plank is inserted with a tenon into the corner and nails are driven into this tenon or screws are screwed into it. On the reverse side, the clamp tongue hooks onto the edge of the groove and the plate is nailed to the sheathing bar with special nails measuring 20 mm.

The tenon of the next plank is inserted into the groove of the previous one, after which it is also fixed on the reverse side with clamps. Plastic or MDF are fixed in approximately the same way, only instead of clamps, stapler staples are used.

If, when installing wooden and MDF cladding, except for corner ceilings and floor skirting boards Often no more fittings are used, then a whole arsenal of auxiliary fittings is produced for plastic. In many ways, it is for this reason that plastic is easier to install.

As a rule, only the walls and ceiling are covered with clapboard. I personally don’t see any point in laying the lining on the floor. From a purely practical point of view, due to the presence of grooves and the special configuration of the strips, the coating is not even.

As a result, you will get tired of sweeping such a floor, and debris will get stuck in all the cracks. For gender most optimal options are laminitis or ordinary floorboards.

If plastic and MDF do not require any additional processing, then with wood everything is different. It is impossible to leave the wood in its original form; it will quickly darken, begin to crack and eventually completely lose its attractiveness.

A lot of questions immediately arise here. If you paint, then what paint to choose, if to varnish, then what varnish to cover it with. To be honest, there are so many masters, so many opinions. Therefore, I will talk about my own experience, decide for yourself whether to accept it or not.

Finishing of wooden lining

The best way to paint or cover the lining should be decided before installing the planks. The fact is that each fresh cut of the plank must be immediately treated with some kind of protection. The wood begins to deteriorate at the ends, so they need to be given special attention.

Personally, I do this:

• During installation, I place next to a jar with the selected protective composition, it doesn’t matter what it is, varnish, paint or primer;
• And immediately, before fixing the plank, I paint its ends.

When the bar is fixed, you will no longer be able to get to the ends and, therefore, no matter how powerful and expensive the protective composition you use, the ends will remain unprotected.

Before painting or varnishing, it is advisable to go over the wood with a protective primer. The above-mentioned white PVA-based impregnation is good, but not suitable for the front surface. Now there are many transparent protective compositions, as well as compositions with a tinting effect.

• The Snezh Aquadecor brand has 16 shades of wood tinting in its line. It reliably protects against all biological hazards and can actually be used as a topcoat. This perfect solution for people who want to leave the wood in its original form, that is, without paint or varnish;

• The composition of "Aquatex" is pure form priming. It is used to treat wood before applying the finishing coat;

• The Finns supply us with “TIKKURILA VALTTI-POHJUSTE”. This soil is certainly good and of high quality, but it only protects against mold, mildew and insects. In the case of a balcony, this composition has a big disadvantage, it does not protect against ultraviolet radiation, but as you understand, on a loggia or balcony this is very important;

• Our industry produces high-quality impregnation from the Usadba company. It goes under the brand name “U-409”. This composition is in no way inferior to imported analogues, and costs much less.

How to paint the lining and whether to paint it at all is a controversial issue. Personally, I am against solid wood staining. What's the point in installing natural wood and then hiding its natural beauty under a layer of paint? Here it is better to immediately mount plastic or MDF.

If you want the wood texture to be clearly visible, then you should choose actyl paints for water based. Oil paints durable, but dry for about three days. For the balcony you can use nitro enamels - they have a bright shine and look great. True, nitro paints stink very strongly, although this is not critical for a balcony.

I am often asked the question which varnish is best to use for lining on the balcony. If you want shine and at the same time durable and reliable protection, take urethane-alide-based varnishes, they are also called yacht varnishes.

Nowadays fashionable water-based acrylic varnishes give a matte surface and the lining underneath looks great. But if a three-liter jar of urethane-alkyd varnish now costs about 400 rubles, then you will only get 1 liter of acrylic varnish for the same money.

Of course, water-based varnishes are odorless, but who’s stopping you from opening the windows on the balcony wide, after all, you don’t paint every day, plus the volumes on the balcony are not so large.

Whatever varnish you choose, you need to apply it in at least two layers. In order to achieve an ideal glossy shine, the number of layers can reach up to 5 - 7. The task is, of course, quite tedious, but the end result is worth it.

Video 3.

Conclusion

As you can see, cladding the balcony with clapboard is not the same difficult task, as it may seem at first. In the photo and video in this article I placed Additional information on this topic. If you have any questions or want to talk about your own experience, welcome to the comments, let's talk.

September 14, 2016

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Have you purchased an apartment in a new building or are you planning to major renovation and decided to insulate and improve the balcony. You are faced with the question of how to cover a balcony with clapboard yourself?

In this article we will talk about how to cover a balcony with clapboard yourself, what materials and tools will be needed for this, and we will analyze in detail all the stages of finishing work.

First, let's figure out what lining is? This is a processed strip or board of a certain size, which is secured with a lock or laid end-to-end. IN construction stores regular and eurolining is offered.

In eurolining, the ridge of the tongue in the lock is enlarged, so that if moisture gets in, it does not come out of the groove. On the back side of the board there are two slots for condensate drainage. The eurolining profile comes with right angles (Standart) and with rounded chamfers (Soft Line).

It’s up to you to decide which lining to cover the balcony, but working with euro-lining is easier and more convenient (see).

Perhaps you prefer plastic lining, which is not inferior to wooden lining in a number of criteria, such as durability, fire safety, and decorativeness. Then you are faced with the question of how to cover a balcony with plastic clapboard? No worries. The same technology is used.

And yet, wooden lining has a number of advantages, such as:

• environmental friendliness of the material,
• wood is an excellent insulator,
• When properly processed, wood does not have problems with fungus and rot, unlike plastic.

The lining comes from different types wood (hardwood and softwood), solid wood and glued. For, it's cheaper and looks good.

Balcony cladding work

Now we move directly to a description of how to cover a balcony with clapboard yourself. First you need to determine how much material and what tools will be required.

The frame for installing the finishing material is made of guides - these are slats with a rectangular cross-section of approximately 20 by 50 mm. The guides are attached in parallel at a distance of no more than 60 cm from one another.

To determine the footage of the slats, you need to measure the perimeter of the room, multiply it by the number of horizontal lines (height divided by 60 cm), add the perimeter of window and door openings. The guide nails are attached to the dowel. The number of dowels is calculated based on the fact that the distance between them will be 80 cm.

To calculate the amount of lining, you need to calculate the area of ​​the sheathed surface, i.e., multiply the height of the room by the perimeter and subtract the area of ​​the door and window openings.

Advice!
Be sure to add at least 10% to all the figures obtained to take into account waste and defects.

As a result, you should have the following list of materials:

• Guides for sheathing;
• Regular or eurolining;
• Dowel nails, wood screws, screws;
• Nails with large heads and small ones for baseboards;
• PVA putty, for treating walls against fungus;
• For insulation and insulation, mineral boards;
• Polyurethane foam;
• Skirting boards;
• Wood protection varnish.

List of required tools

What tools will be needed when we cover the balcony with clapboard:

• Drill or hammer drill;
• Hacksaw or jigsaw for woodworking;
• Level;
• Tape measure, pencil;
• Hammer;
• Axe;
• Pliers;
• Screwdriver and drills of different diameters;
• Ladder.

Now we will figure out how to properly cover a balcony with clapboard yourself.

The first stage is preparing the balcony. It is necessary to seal the cracks and create a protective barrier for the penetration of harmful fungus.

Most reliable way– this is the treatment of all surfaces with PVA putty. This is an inexpensive, harmless and proven material that is easy to apply and perfectly protects against moisture.

The guides and lining also need to be processed special means so that the wood does not dry out and deteriorate.

Preparing the sheathing frame

The second stage is to assemble the frame and lay insulation between it.

First we check the evenness of the surfaces. To do this, apply a level to the wall and determine which side has the larger gap.

Advice!
It is better to start installing the frame from the side where the guide needs to be retracted less.

The next step is to saw off the strip to the required length, mark it after 80 cm and drill holes for the dowels. We apply the guide to the wall about 10 cm from the ceiling if you are starting from the top or at a distance of 1 cm from the floor if you are starting from the bottom.

We put marks on the wall through the holes on the rail and drill the wall with a hammer drill to a depth of 6 cm.

We fix the rail with choppers and insert the screws not all the way. Align the guide using the rule. If necessary, remove it with wooden wedges of the required thickness.

We hammer in the dowels so that they enter the wall 3-4 cm. At the end, it is better to tighten them with a screwdriver.

We install the upper and lower slats, then evenly distribute the distance between them, taking into account that the maximum gap does not exceed 60 cm. Between the upper and lower slats, in the places where they are fixed, we stretch the cords. The remaining slats are secured and aligned with the cords.

The frame is installed similarly on the remaining walls and ceiling. Around window and door openings, vertical and horizontal guides are strengthened in a single plane with the main frame.

After the frame is installed, you can proceed to insulation. External walls and ceilings must be insulated.

Cladding the balcony with clapboard

In the third step, we will look at how to cover a balcony with wooden clapboard.

Please note how to properly cover a balcony with clapboard:

• It is better to start installation from an inconvenient angle, since the last bar will have to be adjusted. We cut out the required length of the lining and secure it in the corner.
  For fastening, you can use nails or screws. It depends on the thickness of the board.
• The first strip is nailed to all the guides. If you use self-tapping screws, you need to drill holes before screwing them in so as not to split the wood.
• The first rail is driven into the tongue and groove. You can use a special stapler or hammer. To connect, a clamp is inserted into the groove of the lining and nailed to the slats. All subsequent planks are inserted into the groove and secured with clamps to the frame.

If you want to sheathe and insulate a balcony block, so that you not only dry things there and store unnecessary rubbish, but also do things there, for example winter Garden or a place to work, for these purposes it is better to use only natural finishing material, which is lining.

Finishing and insulating a balcony with clapboard is a completely doable task for any person who knows the basics of use building material and tool. Using insulation, you can keep the temperature on the balcony at least 10-15 o C higher. And if you also install high-quality double-glazed windows, insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor, such a balcony will be comfortable even in the most severe frosts. And so, let’s now figure out what “lining” is and how the balcony is covered with lining inside and where to start.

What is a lining

Lining is a cladding wood material, which is distinguished by quality, environmental friendliness and good performance characteristics. This material is easy to install, fits perfectly into any interior, is ideal for decorating balconies and loggias, and gives home comfort.

The name “lining” arose back in the last century, when it was customary to cover railway cars with such material. Then the material found its use in decorating premises, retaining its original name. Except natural wood Today there are already synthetic analogues - plastic and MDF panels. The price of such analogues is much lower, and their quality and performance characteristics leave much to be desired.

The classification of the material is based on the type of wood and its grade, as well as the profile and dimensions of the slats. For the manufacture of lining, both coniferous and deciduous wood can be used. Below in the table you can see the classes of lining.

Wood class:	Material Feature:	Appearance photo:
Extra:	The canvas has no defects at all.
A:	The material has no more than 1 defect per 1.5 m2.
IN:	No more than 4 knots and 2 resin pockets per 1.5 m 2 are allowed on the surface.
WITH:	The wood has many defects and other mechanical damage.

Every day, the canvas that is made according to the Euro standard – Eurolining – is gaining more and more popularity. The type of profile for such a canvas can be of 4 types:

• Eurostandard.
• Soft-line.
• Block house.
• calm.

Material advantages

These panels have high level quality, ergonomic and equipped with grooves through which condensate is discharged from the back side. As a rule, according to GOST 8242-88, the dimensions of wood lining should not exceed the parameters 150x6000x25mm. While according to European standards, the length of the slats can vary between 500-6000mm, width - 80-120mm, thickness - 13-19mm.

It is also worth explaining due to what advantages plastic and MDF panels are significantly inferior to lining:

• environmental friendliness (wood does not emit toxic substances, unlike synthetic materials);
• sound and heat insulation capabilities (lining perfectly retains heat and prevents noise from penetrating into the room);
• attractive appearance;
• the ability to maintain the desired balance of humidity (lining is able to absorb atmospheric moisture, releasing it when the air in the room becomes too dry).

Important! So how much does it cost to cover a balcony with clapboard? How much money will you have to invest in such a design? The cost of 1 meter can range from 220 to 1500 or more rubles, it all depends on the class of the lining and the material from which it was made. Therefore, it is impossible to specifically answer this question; start from your budget.

Do-it-yourself lining of a balcony with clapboard (video)

What tools and materials will be needed for the job?

In addition to the fact that for the internal lining of the balcony you will need timber and lining, you will also need the following material:

• The necessary material with which you plan to insulate the walls (alternatively, it can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool in the form of slabs).
• A film for hydro- and vapor barrier of surfaces must be present.
• Putty.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Liquid Nails.
• Dowels and screws.
• Nails with large heads.
• Skirting board.
• Primer solution.

Covering a balcony with wooden clapboard is impossible without the following tools:

• Hammer.
• Drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Jigsaw for working with wood.
• Construction level.
• Roulettes.
• A tool for marking measurements (pencil, square, etc.).
• Hammer (mallet).
• Axe.

Preparatory work

Before you start covering the balcony, it needs preparation, namely:

• Carry out dismantling window slopes and interior decoration.
• Remove old finishing materials.
• Treat surfaces with an antifungal solution.

If the fence on the balcony block is made of sheet material, you will need to make a foam block structure, the thickness of which will be equal to one block. Foam blocks are laid on cement mortar using a level. When the cement is completely dry, double-glazed windows can be installed.

Important! Please note that before covering the balcony it is very important to assess the condition of the double-glazed windows and the balcony frame! If there is even the slightest damage or fungus, replace it.

Installation and insulation

Decorating a balcony with clapboard, where to start? Let's look further at the technology for performing the work. According to the craftsmen, before fixing the lining, you need to install 50x40mm guide bars. If the lining will be installed perpendicular to the floor, then the guide bars are fixed horizontally. The spacing between the beams must be maintained so that later it is comfortable to install the insulating material.

If you plan to use polystyrene foam to insulate the balcony, the step must be followed according to the width of the polystyrene sheets. If you do not want to take care of insulating your balcony, you can maintain any distance, but not less than 60cm.

The first step is to attach brackets to secure the sheets of drywall. Then the guide bar is installed from below, clamping it with brackets. The same method is used to install the timber upward. The middle bars for direction must be installed simultaneously, leveling them with the help of an additional bar.

Once all the guides are installed, the gaps that have formed between them are filled with polystyrene foam, pulling all the loose remains out. After this, all gaps and voids are blown out with foam. After polyurethane foam completely dry and become hard, it is cut with a knife with a sharp blade.

All external surfaces of the balcony also need insulation. If you want to make your balcony really warm and cozy, think about insulating both the ceiling and the floor. If mineral material is used for insulation, do not forget to place a waterproofing film under it (it is needed to protect the material from exposure to moisture, which it is so afraid of).

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a balcony state that at the next stage the insulation needs to be covered with a vapor barrier film, which will protect against moisture evaporation inside the balcony. Ceiling installation guides will be comfortable to carry out after finishing the decoration of the walls. The beams are laid along the entire length of the balcony block: the outer fragments are fixed as tightly as possible to the sheathing, and the intermediate fragments are fixed at a short distance. This method makes it possible to carry out internal insulation as conveniently and quickly as possible.

Ceiling and wall covering

Now the time has come to talk directly about clapboard cladding. When working with any finishing material, you need to act without haste, in stages. It is best to start working with lining from the most difficult areas, otherwise getting to them later will be problematic.

The first base board should be installed level, because due to the slightest errors you will have to start all the work from scratch. Using special nails, the lining is fixed to the guide beam. All subsequent panels must be inserted with a tenon into the groove, and then walked through the beam with light tapping movements so as not to damage the material. Then you can fix it with nails.

That's all, the sheathing is complete. Now you can start decorating the ceiling. To do this, the guides are installed using a level, insulation is laid and foam is used.

Important! Ceiling decoration is best done horizontally rather than vertically. This will visually expand the space, which is especially important on too small balconies.

Finishing work and material processing

When the covering of balconies with plastic lining or natural wood lining is finished, it’s time to think about the finishing design:

• Install baseboards.
• Place corners (if necessary).
• Create slopes.

To do this, you don’t have to worry too much and buy ready-made products from a window systems supplier. To do this, you just need to provide the necessary measurements, according to which they will prepare for you required element. To cover the balcony with clapboard with cabinets, cabinets, shelves and others decorative elements has not lost its visual appeal, a mandatory procedure is needed - coating the canvas with a finishing composition. As a finishing coat, you can use, for example, acrylic-based varnish.

The lining is treated with varnish in the following sequence: the surface is cleaned of dust and other debris using a soft cloth, after which varnish is applied in 2-3 tiers. If you do not want the varnish to hide the entire structure of the wood, it is enough to treat it with PVA glue. This will not only preserve the true grain of the wood, but will also protect the lining from dirt and dust. To do this, apply undiluted glue to the lining in several tiers in an even layer, wait until it dries completely and repeat the manipulations.

It is also worth noting that lining is an excellent material from which you can also make a balcony cabinet for storing small items. Now it’s time to talk a little about how to care for the lining.

• To remove dust, use a dry cloth or vacuum cleaner.
• If the knotted material is covered with stains, their removal is carried out with a special solution, into which a rag is dipped and pressed to the desired area of ​​the surface. If the stain cannot be removed in this way, the only way out is to paint the surface with a darker varnish.
• If the top layer of the carriage has lost a little of its attractiveness over time, the material can be sanded and re-opened with varnish.

That's it, a start has been made! Now you know how to decorate your balcony with clapboard. I really want to believe that our recommendations will help you get the job done efficiently and save a lot of money on your family budget by abandoning highly paid teams of experienced finishers. If you still have some questions, we offer you the video.