Various hybrid varieties of lemons are very popular today, which are distinguished by their early maturity, productivity and resistance to various diseases. In this article we will talk about such popular varieties lemons, which are successfully grown at home, allowing you to get an early harvest.

Hybrid variety Panderoza

Lemon Panderosa is a hybrid indoor variety, which is obtained by crossing lemon, citron and grapefruit.

The appearance of this hybrid largely depends on the growing conditions. It can be either a small compact bush or a full-fledged decorative tree. In most cases, the height of the Panderoza lemon does not exceed one and a half meters, which allows it to be classified as a dwarf variety. The shape of the crown and its thickening directly depends on the presence or absence of formative pruning. For improved fruiting, it is recommended to carry out frequent formative pruning, which will not only get early fruits, but also add decorativeness to such a tree.

One of the advantages of this variety is its ease of maintenance. The bonsai easily tolerates dry air and significant temperature changes. While most classic lemons begin to bear fruit in the fourth or sixth year after planting, the Panderosa lemon will allow you to get your first harvest in the second year of its cultivation.

From two to three years of age, lemon indoor tree blooms profusely and bears excellent fruit. In the first few years, it is recommended to cut off some of the peduncles, which will not allow the lemon to weaken and will accelerate its growth in the future.

Note that this variety is considered primarily decorative, however, if you provide intensive care at home, which consists in feeding and frequent watering, you can get an excellent harvest. For feeding, we can recommend you to use liquid mineral fertilizers... Such fertilizers are applied once a week during the active growing season and once a month during the dormant period.

A feature of this variety is the large size of the fruit (about 400 grams), the weight of some can reach one kilogram. This forces the use of additional supports, which will not allow the tree branches to break under the weight of ripening fruits.

Propagation of the Panderoza lemon is carried out by cuttings. It is difficult to breed this variety through the seeds, like most other indoor hybrids. With proper grafting, there are no difficulties with breeding lemons of this variety. The tree itself is decorative and fast growing. Already in the second - third year, it will reach a height of 50-80 centimeters and will have a dense lush crown.

Lemon Lunario - home care

The Lunario lemon is a Sicilian variety that is equally well suited for outdoor cultivation in the southern regions and for planting bonsai at home. The Lunario lemon tree is compact and yields good. Of the distinctive features, we can note the compact size lemon tree, which rarely reaches a height of one and a half meters, excellent yield and unpretentiousness of this variety.

Home care for Lunario lemon is not difficult. It is only necessary to provide the tree with high-quality lighting, and in winter time years and additional lighting.

Remember that the Lunario lemon does not tolerate drafts and can even shed leaves and ripening fruits with significant temperature changes. The optimal indicator of air humidity is 65-75 percent, it is recommended to regularly spray the leaves from a spray bottle and ensure high-quality watering.

If you want to get a good harvest from your lemon tree, you need to regularly enrich the land with mineral fertilizers and organic matter. From mineral dressings, potassium salts, nitrogen and phosphorus dressings are required. Caring for plantings at home is not difficult, so this variety can be recommended for novice growers.

Novogruzinsky lemon: features of growing at home

The popular variety Novogruzinsky is one of the best for growing at home. If you are looking for a fruitful variety of lemon tree, Novogruzinsky will be the best choice for you. When growing a lemon at home, its height is 120-150 centimeters. Such a bonsai has a spreading decorative crown, which is decorative. On condition proper care citrus Novogruzinsky allows you to get an excellent harvest.

Novogruzinsky lemon is distinguished by whimsical care. First of all, for planting it, you will need to use high-quality fertile soil, to which charcoal is added. The plant will need high-quality watering and regular spraying of the crown from a spray bottle.

Once a week at summer time year it is recommended to feed the lemon with mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and nitrogen. A growing tree will need an annual formative pruning. In early spring it is also recommended to replant the tree in a new larger pot every year. Following these rules of care, you can grow a beautiful strong tree that will bear fruit perfectly.

The hybrid variety Yubileiny was created in Uzbekistan by grafting the Tashkent species to the Novogruzinsky variety. Distinctive feature The Jubilee variety is a fast-growing and large-sized fruit that can weigh more than one kilogram. This variety is distinguished by its yield, shade tolerance and the ability to grow well even at low moisture levels.

Caring for the Jubilee lemon at home is not particularly difficult. It is necessary to water the tree 1-2 times a week, spray it with a spray bottle and regularly feed the plant with mineral compounds.

As mentioned above, the Yubileiny variety grows well even in low light conditions. However, if you want an excellent harvest of large-sized fruits, you will need to water the tree frequently and place it on a well-sanctified windowsill. Also remember that this variety is fast growing, so you will need to transplant the lemon tree into a larger pot every year.

Citrofortunella: home care

Citrofortunella is an evergreen compact tree that belongs to the citrus family. Citrofortunella fruit is a cross between lemon and orange. The excellent taste of the grown crop, its fertility and ease of care have invariably affected the popularity of this variety.

Caring for Citrofortunella at home is not difficult. It is best to place a compact tree pot near an east or west window. In the summer, watering is recommended twice a day, but in the winter, during the dormant period, two waterings per week will be enough. Also, the tree will need to spray the foliage, which allows it to provide the necessary moisture. Top dressing is recommended to be carried out through the foliage, using special nutritional compositions for these purposes. Transplanting young Citrofortunella trees will be required every year, but an adult Citrofortunella can be transplanted every two years. No more special care is required for this citrus tree.

Citrus types

Currently, there are various varieties of lemons for home growing. Such varieties differ in the size of the tree, their yield indicators, early maturity and the taste of the grown crop. Note that there are both fruitful varieties and decorative varieties, which are distinguished by lush dense foliage. It should be said that such varietal varieties that are propagated by cuttings bear fruit better and grow faster than lemons planted from seeds.

Photos from open sources

Lemon Panderoza, depending on the growth, can look like a small tree or a bush. Its cultivation is becoming more and more popular, as it not only decorates any room, but also creates a healthy microclimate in it. The plant has a high content of phytoncides, which helps to cleanse the air from microorganisms.

The crown of the Panderoza lemon depends on formative pruning. It is carried out regularly to enhance fruiting and add decorative effect. You can buy Panderoza lemon in the online store Pavlovsky Limonov Nursery, where not only plants are presented, but also information on the rules for caring for citrus fruits at home.

Description of appearance

This lemon is a hybrid, obtained by crossing several types: grapefruit and citron or pompelmus and lemon. Its peculiarity is the fruit is heavy and weighty, reaching a weight of up to 1 kg. They are round or pear-shaped, the peel is bitter and thick up to 1 cm. Contents citric acid small, so the pulp is sour in taste without the characteristic citrus flavor.

Care features

When buying a lemon tree, do not forget that this is an exotic plant. Therefore, at home, he needs to create conditions that meet his needs: good drainage and no drafts are needed. The place is selected immediately, so as not to rearrange the flowerpot in the future, since this plant does not tolerate any changes well.

The Panderoza variety is hybrid and therefore requires non-standard care. It is important to pay attention to such factors:

The south side is selected, where there is a sufficient amount of sunshine, especially in winter.

In summer, it can be taken out onto the balcony, as it tolerates heat well, and does not tolerate direct rays.

Stable air humidity is required, so it is worth spraying lemon in dry rooms.

It is possible to keep it outdoors until the temperature drops below 15 degrees.

Watering is carried out with settled water, if the soil has dried up by 2 cm. Lemon Panderoza should be fertilized with fertilizers suitable for citrus varieties. The dosage is calculated according to the instructions. You can also simply acidify the soil: dilute a couple of drops of lemon juice with water.

Crown pruning is carried out in early spring to increase air flow into the plant. For good harvest you should pick off excess flowers during flowering.

Care errors

In some cases, changes may occur outward appearance lemon, its leaves fall off or become stained. This could be caused by content errors. Possible reasons:

Direct sunlight gets in, causing burns on foliage;

Excess moisture in the soil in winter or dryness of the soil;

Sudden changes in temperature;

Dry indoor air, therefore humidification is necessary.

If you follow the particulars in care, you will be able to grow a full-fledged tree. In order for the Panderoza lemon to delight with fresh fruits, it must be transplanted and cut on time.

How to care for homemade lemon?

First you need to decide what kind of indoor lemon you want to grow. There are a lot of varieties of indoor lemons.

Indoor lemon. List of varieties.

Most-Most the best varieties there are simply no indoor citrus fruits. They all have their own advantages and disadvantages. Indoor lemons the most popular and at the same time the best studied citrus. You can find their descriptions on hundreds of sites, but everything is like a template. Authors simply copy information from each other.
Now I will tell you what I know for certain.

Lemon Four Seasons (Lunario) ( Citrus Limon Lunari)

Medium-sized variety (1.2m). The most unpretentious. Fruits weighing 120-170 grams, taste of average quality. Harvest 8-16 fruits per year. Saplings bloom for 2-3 years.

Ponderosa Lemon (synonym for Canadian Lemon) ( Citrus Limon Ponderosa)

Stunted (0.6-1m). Unpretentious. The fruits are tasty, weighing 300-900 grams, but there are only 3-5 of them. The number of seeds depends on the conditions of keeping. Sometimes there are many, up to 40 pieces. Saplings bloom for 1-2 years. This is the main drawback of the variety. Lemon Skernevitsky is a low-seeded clone.

Citrus Limon Lisbon)

Tall variety (1.5m). Unpretentious. There are thorns on the branches. The fruits are delicious, weighing 200 gr. Harvest 6-15 fruits per year. Seedlings bloom for 3 years. It is better to propagate by cuttings.

Genoa Lemon ( Citrus Limon Genoa)

Stunted (1.1m). Not so unpretentious. The fruits are very tasty, weighing 150-200 grams. The yield, indoors, is average. Saplings bloom for 2-3 years.

Maykop lemon ( Citrus Limon Мaikopsk)

Medium height (1.3m). Unpretentious. The fruits are tasty, weighing 150-200 grams. Compared to other varieties, the yield in the Krasnodar Territory is the highest. In the Moscow region, the harvest is simply high. Saplings bloom for 2-3 years.

Lemon Villa Franca ( Citrus limon Villa Franka)

Medium height (1.3 m), strongly leafy tree. There are few thorns, on some branches they are completely absent. The leaves are not large. Flowers are small, solitary. The fruits are oblong-oval in shape with a wedge-shaped base, their surface is almost smooth, average weight 100 g, the pulp is fragrant. Needs a light location. Saplings bloom for 2-3 years.

Citrus Limon Jubilejny)

Medium-sized variety (1.4 m). Unpretentious. It tolerates the dry air of the room well, rarely needs to form a crown. The variety is high-yielding. The fruit tastes of medium quality, large, weighing 300-600 grams with a thick skin. Saplings bloom for 2-3 years.

Lemon Peace ( Citrus Limon Мir)

Medium-sized. Unpretentious. Fruits weighing 300-400 grams, taste of average quality. The yield, indoors, is average. Seedlings bloom for 3 years. New variety, they say - good. The leaves are similar to the Ponderosa lemon.

Lemon Chinese Dwarf (Meyer's lemon) ( Citrus Limon Mejer)

A hybrid of lemon and orange. The smallest variety (0.5-1m). Fruits weighing 150-180 grams, but their taste is usually average. Yield 6-15 fruits per year (It is often written that the harvest is very high - nothing like that). Saplings bloom for 1-2 years. Lemon Meyer is a capricious variety that requires mandatory lighting in the cold season. I advise you to choose something else.

Meyer's lemon

Lemon Eurica (C. Limon Eureka)

Medium-sized. Fruits weighing 160-220 grams, taste worse than average quality. The yield is average. Seedlings bloom for 3 years. Found in room culture in Europe.

Lemon Variegated Eurica ( C. Limon Variegata Pink Eurek)

Medium-sized. Fruits weighing 160-220 grams, taste worse than average quality. The yield, indoors, is average. Seedlings bloom for 3 years. The leaves of this lemon are milky-white veined, hence the name.

Citrus Medika Pavlovsk)

Medium-sized variety. Unpretentious. The fruits are delicious, weighing 200 gr. Harvest 6-15 fruits per year. Seedlings bloom for 3 years.

Citrus Medika ..)

Medium-sized variety. Unpretentious. Exotic Fruits weighing 200 gr. Candied fruits are made from them. Harvest 5-8 fruits per year. Seedlings bloom for 3 years.

Citrus ..)

Medium-sized variety. Fruits weighing 170 grams. their taste is specifically lime-like. Harvest 6-12 fruits per year. Seedlings bloom for 3 years.

All the trees described are self-pollinating.

Indoor lemon care.

Transfer

Saplings of lemon, orange and other citrus fruits at 1-3 years of age, are transplanted every year into fresh soil. Mature plants every 2-3 years. Lemons can be transplanted at any time of the year, but it is better of course in the spring. Adult tangerines are transplanted in January-February, before flowering, tangerine seedlings and other citrus fruits in the spring, before growth or in summer.

The soil

The soil should be nutritious and loose. Neutral or weakly acidic reaction Ph 6.0-7.0
SOIL COMPOSITION (according to Dadykin):
2 volumetric parts of meadow turf (light loam),
2 pieces of leafy land,
1 part slurry and
1 part coarse (like buckwheat) sand.

The tree will bear less fruit if you use garden soil.

Do it yourself the right mix not every gardener can. I recommend buying the soil in the store. But not all are suitable.
Suitable land "Lemon", "Rose" firm "SAD OF MIRACLES",
"Kompostinis žemės mišinys Citrus" Juknevičaus įmonės.

Watering

PUMPING THE CITRUS FROM CHLORINE, WITH PIPELINE WATER OF ROOM TEMPERATURE. WINTER WATER WILL BE WARMED UP Slightly.

Indoor lemons must be fertilized.

Trees MUST be watered with fertilizers 3-4 times a month. In winter, if the plant is "sleeping", fertilizing is done less often.
Dosage - A four-liter pot with a tree is watered with 1 glass of top dressing.

Option 1
Fresh horse dung diluted 1: 1 with water and set to ferment for 5-7 days in a closed jar. Before watering, the slurry is filtered and diluted 1:10 with water. In addition, twice a year, in the summer, plants are watered with Iron vitriol 3 g / l. and a very weak, slightly pink, solution of Potassium permanganate 0.2 g / l. ... Cow dung is worse, before watering it is diluted 1:15 with water.

Option 2
V last years instead of manure, they began to use mineral fertilizers with trace elements, 2-3 grams of fertilizer are dissolved in a liter of water. Universal fertilizer"CITRUS MIXTURE" has the following composition:
N 14%, P 16%, K 18%, Fe 0.2%, Cu 0.05%, Mn 0.1%, B 0.04%, Mg 2%

From the range sold today, I recommend KEMIRA-KOMBI NPK 16-21-27 fertilizer and FLORTIS FOR CITRUS NPK 6-7-8 liquid fertilizer before watering 6 ml. (One cap) to dissolve in a liter of water.
Most other fertilizers are not suitable
DO NOT BELIEVE SUPER ADVERTISING. When buying, be sure to make sure that the composition of the fertilizer is similar to the above.

IN ORDER NOT TO BURN THE ROOTS, AND AN HOUR BEFORE THE FERTILIZER IS APPLIED, THE PLANTS ARE ABUNDANTLY WATERED WITH WATER!

Lighting

In winter, when daylight hours are short, citrus trees should preferably be kept at a temperature of 7-14 degrees Celsius. The tree "falls asleep" at this temperature and does not require good lighting. If the tree is grown in warm room, with an air temperature of +18 ... + 22 ° С, it is advisable to EXTRA LIGHT, so that the total daylight hours are 10-12 hours a day. It is best to supplement the illumination with a ML 100W mercury-tungsten lamp from OSRAM, good - a lamp with fluorescent lamps FLORA L18W / 77 from OSRAM, TLD 18W / 89 from PHILIPS or NATURA L18W from PAULMANN, a little worse - an incandescent lamp with neodymium glass for plant illumination NATURA 100W by PAULMANN.

Lemon crown formation

But sometimes a high vaccination is made on purpose. (I had such a kinkan. It looked very effective. Only now the seedling ripened 2 years longer.)

In order to balance the crown, the tree is occasionally turned VERY CAREFULLY and no more than 1 time in 2-3 years.

How to choose a lemon

A lemon tree SHOULD GROW UNDER THE SAME CONDITIONS IN WHICH THE Sapling grew! Brought from southern countries, a fruiting tree takes a long time to get used to new conditions, painfully tolerates acclimatization and often dies. Therefore, I recommend purchasing a seedling propagated from a local mother tree, indoor variety.

Indoor citrus trees are propagated by grafting or cuttings. ALWAYS ask the seller on which rootstock this seedling is before buying. Citrus fruits in Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan are grown in open ground, but they plant trees there on the Tripoliath. Such trees winter very well in greenhouses and poorly heated rooms such as a winter garden. But they are not suitable for indoor culture.

The citrus variety matters!

Remember once and for all. A good result depends a lot on the type of lemon.

Lemon Genoa
Maykop lemon

Meyer's lemon (conditional) - if you find virus-free
Oranges are suitable for all indoor
Mandarin Italian, Tangerines of the Unshiu group
Kinkans Fukushu, Marumi, Meiwa - they don't like dry heat.

Lemon Ponderoza (Skernevitsky) - the shortest
Lunario lemon - the most unpretentious
Lemon Pavlovsky
Lemon Lisbon - will grow similar to Pavlovsky
Lemon Kursky - a very strong smell in the leaves
Novogruzinsky lemon - the strongest smell of leaves

Orange Myrtle - dwarf
Gamlin Oranges, Washington Navel, (good lighting)
Unshiu group mandarins, (e.g. Miagave-Wase)
Kinkana Fukushu, Nagami
Meyer's lemon (conditionally) - dwarf, capricious.

I do not recommend buying other citrus fruits for novice gardeners. Well, perhaps, there will be no choice.

Where to put the pot?

Illumination is of great importance. In general, we can say this:
LEMON NEEDS DIFFUSED LIGHT, in other words partial shade.
KINKANES and their hybrids are probably also better grown in similar conditions.
ORANGE AND MANDARINE LOVE MORE LIGHT, but they should not be exposed in the sun. Just like lemons, the leaves can burn.
Optimal can be considered 2-5 hours of direct sun per day.

Lemon, kinkan and calamondin grow well in a room with a window to the east, west. On the southern window in winter, these trees are placed on the windowsill, and in summer (so as not to get sunburn) they are rearranged 1-1.5 meters deep into the room.
It is better to place the pot with orange and tangerine near the south window. Somewhat worse near the east, west. In a room with a window to the north, the fruits do not ripen.

Not everyone understands what I wrote here. Therefore, I decided to explain with an example.

Cottage second floor plan

The circles indicate the places for the pots.

1. Perfect place for Lemon, Kinkan
2. A good place for ALL citrus fruits
3. Great place for a large tree
4. place for Lemon, Mandarin, Orange
5. place for Lemon, Kinkan
6. place for Lemon, Kinkan
7. place for orange
8. place for lemon Lunario
9. place for lemon Lunario
10. Great place for Orange, Mandarin

Breeding lemons

There are three known breeding methods for lemons:

• seminal,
• tissue culture method,
• vegetative (grafting or grafting)<

Seed method

Fruiting in the middle lane has to wait up to twenty years. And the result is not always good. True, if you take a certain variety, for example Ponderoza, and apply special agricultural techniques, you can get a fruiting tree in 4-6 years.
But better not. This method is used for breeding new varieties.
If you find someone willing - write, I will send you detailed instructions.

In Vitro Method

The method of tissue culture propagation (In Vitro) consists in placing pieces of a leaf in a test tube on a special nutrient-stimulating medium. Small plants without roots are grown, then rooted, and then planted in the ground. This method requires special equipment and techniques, so citrus growers cannot do it.
But it was not by chance that I told about him. Viral disinfection is almost always a side effect of the method.
I recommend buying lemon seedlings Meyer multiplied only by this method.
For example from the company "Vitrocitrus" Lodz

Vegetative reproduction

The most popular is the vegetative reproduction method, which is subdivided into three methods:

The first way is grafting.

The most successful method for lemon and citron. Especially for tall varieties.
Oranges don't do well. But I still advise you to reproduce them in this way.

In indoor culture, cuttings are usually cut in spring and summer. For reproduction, take a sprig of lemon with three leaves. The lower cut is treated with a rooting stimulant. The stalk is buried in light sandy soil. After planting, the cutting is sprayed with water and covered with a glass jar. Spraying is repeated daily. When young shoots appear, the jar can be removed.

The second way is layering.

Most preferred method for oranges.
Lemons take root very well, but I advise you to propagate them by cuttings. Less problems.

A ring is made on a fruit-bearing tree near a well-developed branch, removing the bark 1-2 cm wide. (Russian version) The exposed wood is treated with a rooting stimulator, covered with marsh moss (sphagnum) mixed with river sand and wrapped in black polyethylene.
After a while, roots will appear. After waiting two or three months, we separate the branch together with the roots.
There are three variations of this method. Russian, Dutch and Combi.
For tangerines, the Combi method is better.

The third way is vaccination.

For lemons, this method is no better than Cutting.
By grafting, I usually propagate Mandarins, Oranges, Kinkans and Ponderosa lemon.

Planting unpretentious citrus fruits is not so difficult. But still, there are nuances known only to professionals. But you have to tinker with capricious plants. The stock matters ...

I know from experience that many gardeners ask to plant a seedling, and then do not know what to do with it.

Supervising the grafted seedling.

Spray the grafted tree with water and cover the graft site with a plastic bag. Tie the bag with a string below. Before putting on, it is advisable to spray the inner surface of the bag with water. Place the pot with the tree in a bright room, but NOT ON THE SUN. The room temperature should be 18-25 degrees Celsius. Sudden changes in temperature are undesirable. Until the seedling grows back - no fertilizer.

If possible, instead of a plastic bag, it is better to cover the grafted tree with a half-liter plastic bottle with a cut-off neck. To ensure "tightness" the bottle is pressed slightly into the ground.

Every second day it is NECESSARY to arrange a two-minute airing of the vaccination, then be sure to spray with water and put on a bag. The stick (and leaves) of the vaccine must be constantly wet. For the first week, it is advisable to spray every day.

After 2-4 weeks, the vaccination gives an escape. Continue airing and spraying the young shoot with water twice a week, remember to put on a plastic bag.

It is advisable to make sure that the young leaves do not touch the bag. To do this, insert a loop of wire inside as shown in the figure. Or cover the tree with a two-liter jar.

Sometimes a flower grows instead of leaves - this is not good. The flower must be pinched off without waiting for flowering.

After about 6-8 weeks, from the day of vaccination, the shoot will get stronger. UNTIL THE YOUNG ESCAPE IS GENERATED, CONTINUE FOLLOWING Step 2.

FINALLY HAVE THE MOST RESPONSIBLE MOMENT - remove the bag for 20-45 minutes, let the tree get used to the room air a little and then put it back on. Remember to spray with water. THE PACKAGE IS PLEASED TO REMOVE ON A COOL, RAINY DAY (on a hot day in the evening). On the second and third day, remove the sachet for 1-2 hours. On the evening of the fourth day, remove the bag completely. (If the leaves wilted the next morning, then you were in a hurry - spray immediately and cover with a bag.)

A week later, from the moment you took off the bag, remove the putty (plasticine) and cut off the tying tape.

ALL !!! The seedling has grown.

Addition

1 If a "wild" shoot appears from the trunk below the inoculation, it must be removed as soon as possible.

2 Unfortunately, I cannot give a 100% guarantee of the survival rate of the vaccine, and in case of failure I do not bear responsibility. Do not be alarmed if you care for your tree with love and follow all the rules, you will succeed!

Lemon disease.

Diseases of citrus plants.

Lemons often get sick. Why is this happening?
Let's consider three types of diseases.

• Diseases of poor care
• Nutritional deficiencies
• Real Diseases

Improper plant care.

Almost healthy leaves fall off for the following reasons:

• Plant depletion in winter in low light and high air temperatures.
• Watering with cold water.
• Excessive soil moisture.
• Violation of the acid-base balance of the soil.

Lack of fertilizer.

Old leaves have light yellow mottling. Gradually the leaf fades and turns yellow - LACK OF NITROGEN. Adult leaves fade, their tip dries up, becomes rusty brown - LACK OF PHOSPHORUS. In maturing leaves, folds and grooves form between the veins - POTASSIUM LACK. A contrasting mesh of green veins appears on light leaves - LACK OF IRON, less often a lack of MANGANESE or ZINC. Often associated with a violation of the acid-base balance of the soil. Ovaries fall off - LACK OF BORON and MANGANESE .. Excess fertilizer causes the leaf edges to die off.

Soil acidified
The photo shows classic iron chlorosis combined with a lack of nitrogen. The leaves begin to die off. Fertilizers are not the reason. The tree was flooded and the soil sour.

The seedling is running and will kick soon. The owner needs to be flogged.

Diseases:

On plantations, both lemons and other citrus fruits are often sick. Even professionals cannot always determine the cause. For example, now in Brazil, huge plantations are being cut down, affected by an unknown disease.
In indoor conditions, and even in a non-native climate, truly terrible diseases are rare. Therefore, you should not be prematurely afraid of them.
But still, I advise everyone - buy a seedling of our varieties (preferably cuttings) and you will be happy!

Of course, you definitely need to have at least a general idea of ​​the diseases. I will describe some, in my opinion, are often encountered.
So...
Diseases are of three types:

• Fungal diseases
• Infectious diseases
• Viral diseases are incurable.

HOMMOZ- Infection. Usually not high from the ground, the bark turns brown, a crack forms, from which a droplet of sticky, dark liquid flows out. The wound gradually enlarges and decays.
It is difficult to cure. - Clean up the damaged area and lubricate with Copper Vitriol. Dig up the plant, clean the roots and TRANSFER IN GOOD SOIL.
Hommosis can be caused by various pathogens. In some cases, it cannot be cured.

MALSECO- Infectious drying of shoots. The disease on plantations in Georgia appears abruptly in the spring, and in indoor plants from autumn to spring. Causes leaves to fall. The disease begins at the ends of the branches. Affected wood becomes reddish-orange when cut. You can immediately distinguish - the petioles from the leaves remain on the branches.
I remind novice gardeners that if a few leaves have fallen from the lower tier (or even almost at the edges of the branches) and cuttings remain on the branches, this may well be caused by poor lighting in winter. Therefore, do not panic prematurely.
I don't know for sure how to treat an affected tree. They say for amateurs there is only one tool - an ax.
And in one book it is written that this is a fungal disease ...

XYLOPSOROSIS (Psorosis A) - The virus can be latent for up to 10 years. When activated, the cortex is damaged. Professionals on the plantations test the infestation by grafting sour lime. In indoor mini gardening, amateurs do not know how to define this disease and think that it is Gommoz. It is impossible to cure.

TRISTESA- Dying off of the bark of the trunk. In varieties resistant to tristesis, the virus is in a latent state.

With resistant varieties ... This is what I don't like the most. You cut a stalk from an outwardly healthy plant, graft it onto a seedling, and after a few years, the rootstock of the tree suddenly and for some unknown reason begins to hurt. For example, this often happens with the Dioscuria lemon.
Therefore, I recommend propagating lemons by cuttings.

Leaf Mosaic - The virus appears on the leaves in the form of specific patterns. It is impossible to cure.

ANTHRACCOZ - ...

SCAB- wartiness of fruits, leaves, branches.

Citrus Cancer - Bacterial disease. It appears on fruits and leaves as dark brown, bright spots. It is impossible to cure.

PHYTOFLUOROSIS- Trees grafted on an orange suffer greatly. More often, young seedlings have an oily, brown spot on the trunk of a ring. The causative agent is a fungus. Outwardly, again, it looks like Gommoz.
It is difficult to cure - clean the damaged area and lubricate it with Copper Vitriol, or better with something more abrupt. For prevention, dig up the plant, examine the roots.

Root rot - From the name it is clear what it is. There are several varieties in the pot culture. As a rule, the gardener does not know about anything until the massive leaf fall begins.
Dig up the plant for inspection and, if necessary, cut off the affected roots with a sharp knife. Treat them with a rooting stimulant. Replace the soil. Place the tree in a greenhouse, or at least often wipe the leaves with a wet cloth. Provide adequate lighting. And in no case do not fill.

lemon ponderosa
What a trouble!
It is quite difficult to make a diagnosis. Most likely this is some kind of fungal disease.

Sometimes it helps to simply cut off the affected part of the leaf with scissors, give more light and be more careful about watering. And sometimes this is not enough and you need to spray it with a fungicide.

Means of combating fungal diseases

Fungal diseases are of two types. External and internal. A typical representative of the outside is the well-known Black Fungus. It is usually sufficient to simply wipe it off the leaves.
They fight mold by spraying the trees with Bordeaux mixture or simply Copper Vitriol. When using these tools, you need to remember that copper is both a trace element and, if it gets into the soil too much, blocks iron, which can lead to chlorosis.
Internal fungal diseases are treated with fungicides. I have not tried it myself, there was no need, but according to rumors, not bad Score 250 EC and Effector 70WG

In addition to diseases, citrus fruits are attacked by pests. Read about how to deal with them on the next page.
I will only note that a tree infected with pests begins to hurt almost immediately. Immunity, you know, goes down ...

Citrus pests

Sometimes there are lucky gardeners. Their trees are not infected for 30 years. But usually after 10 years you have to deal with pests.

Well, so that you don't have any problems, you need regular, preventive inspections of trees.

Here are the main pests of indoor citrus fruits

Exactly indoor ... In fact, there are much more pests. I will not describe those that do not survive in our climate.
Well, who is interested in the TsC fly, which lives in Brazil, where there are many, many wild monkeys?

• SHIELD,
• SPIDER MITE,
• TRIPS GREENHOUSE,
• WHITEFLY,
• MEALYBUG,
• APHID,
• GARDEN SLIMMER,

The pests are listed according to the degree of nasty. That is, the scabbard is the most terrible, and it is difficult to get rid of it.

SHIELD

Coccus herperidum

When damaged by a scutellum (false scutellum), convex oval-shaped plates, approximately 3 mm long, are visible on the leaves and twigs. They move only in the stage of a larva - a "vagabond", which cannot be seen. Then, having chosen a good place, they stick tightly, become covered with a darker protective shell and no longer move.

There are many varieties of this pest. Black, yellow-brown, spotted, patterned, humped, oval, round, viviparous. All are extremely dangerous.

The scabbard sucks the sap of the plant, and is very harmful to it. This is the MOST DANGEROUS PEST, because it is difficult to get rid of it, the shield protects it from weak pesticides. Pests sit motionless and many inexperienced gardeners notice them too late. More precisely, they notice, but they cannot understand what it is, and I begin to read reference books only after a few months. And the time is lost ... the pest has time to multiply and infect neighboring plants. And the eggs are scattered throughout the apartment.

When affected, a sticky, transparent gum appears on the surface of the leaves and on the windowsill. If you see her, immediately grab a magnifying glass and carefully examine the tree. I guarantee you will find this stuff.

Some lucky gardeners notice the pest immediately, even before the scale insect has become sexually mature and has time to multiply. And get rid of it without much hassle. That is why the basic instructions say that trees should be examined more often and bathed in the shower.

Control methods are as follows - Adult insects are scraped off. Then the plant is sprayed with a pesticide. The topsoil is replaced with fresh soil. The entire scraping-spraying procedure is repeated 3-5 times with an interval of 15-20 days.

Red Spider Mite

Panonychus citri

Spiders with a diameter of 0.3-0.4 mm. They usually settle on the underside of the leaf. In the photo on the left, the pests enlarged by 4 times and the whole bitten leaf on which they sit are clearly visible.

On the contrary, it takes the honorable 2nd place, after the shield. It does not have a preliminary stage of infection. Eggs are laid by the thousands. And these eggs have a bad property - they can lie on the objects surrounding the plant for two years, then they fall on a leaf and hatch (here are the bastards).

If you find it, you need to take immediate action. And after stripping for a year or two, more often arrange preventive examinations of your lemon and neighboring plants. Pay special attention to roses.

Struggle - once every 2 weeks, the tree is washed with a brush with soap, paying special attention to the lower part of the leaf along the central vein, in this way they get rid of the eggs. Once every three days, they bathe under a cold shower, so they get rid of spiders. The topsoil in the pot is replaced. The window sill, window glass and surrounding objects are often wiped with a damp cloth. If bathing does not help (most likely it will), the tree is treated with insecticides-acaricides. Spraying is repeated 3-5 times with an interval of 10-15 days.

Photo is enlarged 100 times

Thrips Greenhouse

Thysanoptera

In the photo it is very beautiful, fatty ... I just want to eat it.
At home, it looks like a dark line on a leaf. You will not immediately understand what it is.

The pests have successfully naturalized from South America to Europe. And they are gradually moving to Russia. But fortunately our climate is cold for them, and in winter they almost all freeze out. Therefore, we call them Greenhouse Thrips. And in greenhouses they feast with might and main!

Thrips are sucking insects that feed on plant sap, nectar and pollen. They especially love plums, cloves, roses, tomatoes, strawberries, and of course lemons. Adults are 1.5-2 mm long. In the photo there is a male, and the females are gray. But the color still depends on the climate, if the damp male is darker.

Thrips do not so much eat as shit. They can fly and are almost the most important vector of viruses.

Struggle - the tree is washed in the shower. Spray with insecticide 2-3 times with an interval of 15 days.
If the population is not too large, in greenhouses it is fought with the help of predatory mites. They say the sulfur color also helps.

Whitefly

detachment Homoptefa, suborder Aleyrodinea

The adult is a small moth (moth) with a light yellow or pinkish abdomen and white wings. Four wings are covered with a white dusty coating (as if sprinkled with flour), at rest they fold in a roof-like manner. Greenish larvae cover the underside of the leaves. The larvae of the first instar are mobile, the subsequent ones are motionless. There you will also find pest eggs laid in beautiful rings.

Both butterflies and larvae suck out the juice, leaving a sugary discharge.

Fortunately, Whitefly is more common in greenhouses than in rooms. Favorite plants are fuchsia, begonia, balsam and pelargonium.

There are quite a few varieties of this pest. The most common are the following three.

Citrus whitefly (Dialeurodes citri) distributed in Japan, India, China, America, the Caucasus.

Greenhouse Whitefly (Trialeurodes Vaporarum). Loves cucumbers and tomatoes.

Strawberry whitefly (Aleurodes fragariae) is found in Europe. Damages garden and forest strawberries.

The wrecker takes the third, honorable, place in opposition. In order to get rid of the whitefly, you have to tinker. Therefore, if you see at least one butterfly, take urgent action.

APHID

Insect of the family Aphididae of the order Proboscidae isoptera

There are more than 200 varieties. It comes in green and black, flying and wingless, etc. Perhaps the most harmless pest in citrus room culture.

Aphids are well known to all. These are small, delicate insects, usually sitting in large colonies. They always sit on young shoots and suck all the juices from them (here are the bastards). Aphids often cause leaf deformation (which sometimes leads to tears) and curvature of the ends of the shoots. Many aphids secrete sweet excrement in the form of droplets on the butt, so they are eagerly visited by ants that feed on this excrement. But they do not destroy aphids.

Cabbage aphid (Brevicoryne brassicae) is widespread, insects about 2 mm long, greenish, covered with a grayish-white waxy coating; winged males; females are winged and wingless.

Fight against aphids - suppress with handles. If it does not help, spray with any chemical (except acaricides). Anyone will do. Or a folk remedy - infusion of tomato leaves (tomato).

Mealy bug

Pseudococcus

The worm is rare. Milky in color, the lump is not always clear what (3 mm long) sticks to the stems or leaves. Sucks the sap of plants. Not a dangerous pest.

Fighting - adult insects are scraped off.

Citrus Nematoda

Tylenchulus semipenetraus

Citrus Nematoda is a very small milky transparent worm. It gnaws at the roots of the plant and climbs inside and sucks the sap of the plants. It looks like this - leaves begin to fall off the tree, you dig it out and see large swellings on the roots. It is in these potatoes that the nematode lives.

Citrus nematode is rare. Outwardly, these worms are an exact copy of the usual Nematoda, and the usual citrus does not harm.

The simple nematode feeds like earthworms on rotten organic debris.

Rain worm

It is often found in the ground. This is not a pest, and there will not be much trouble from him. But still it is better to choose all the worms before planting.

Many manuals write the other way around, but my point of view is mine. After the end of the experimental research, I will write in more detail why.

Pest control

There are quite a few materials on this topic. All that are really worth mentioning for application specifically to citrus plants:

Pest control products.

To combat pests, amateur gardeners widely use:

• Insecticidal plants
• Sulfur - as an acaricidal agent
• all kinds of Chemicals (Insecticides)
• Bacterial drugs
• and occasionally biological control methods

Herbal preparations.

The advantage of herbal preparations in comparison with chemical agents is that they are not toxic to humans or toxic, but to a lesser extent. The disadvantage is that "grandmother's recipes" are ineffective, and they do not work on the Shield at all.
Infusions or decoctions are made from herbs and sprayed with them throughout the plant. As a rule, it is necessary to spray several times with an interval of 7-10 days.

Insecticidal plants contain natural compounds - alkaloids, saponins, ethers and other poisons. Therefore, when working with some of them, you need to take precautions.

Onion peel.

My grandmother's first remedy! The infusion is used on the day of preparation against aphids, thrips and spider mites. A glass of onion peel is poured with a glass of warm water and insisted for 24 hours.
For spider mites, it is not a very effective remedy, but it gives some result.

Garlic.

Garlic phytancides are effective against aphids, spider mites, worms, whitefly, and are also effective against some diseases. The head of garlic is ground and poured with a glass of warm water. Then they insist for 5 days in a dark place. Filter and spray the plant with the resulting liquid. (By the way, not only lemons)
I recommend using it when, in addition to pests, some dots, specks are noticeable on the leaves ...

Yarrow.

Its decoctions destroy aphids, thrips and spider mites. Yarrow is harvested during flowering. Use the whole plant without roots, dried. It is in dried form that it turns out stronger.
The recipe is as follows: 100 gr. the dried plants are poured with a liter of water and boiled over low heat for 30 minutes. Then filter while hot. I myself have tested this remedy and it turned out to be more effective than the first two. Moreover, there is no unpleasant smell. I recommend this remedy to you as the main plant-ecological one.
Yes, if you need to get it urgently, look at pharmacies.

Datura ordinary.

All parts of the plant are poisonous. It is used against spider mites and other pests.
Recipe: 100 gr. crushed dried plants are poured with 1 liter of water and insisted during the day, then filtered. Before spraying trees, add 2-3 grams to the infusion. soap.
I think this tool belongs to the 4th group of insecticides. If there are small children in the house, it is better not to use it - it will be calmer in your soul.

Black henbane.

The whole plant is highly poisonous. It is used against spider mites and other pests. The infusion is prepared in the same way as dope.
Recipe: 100 gr. crushed dried plants are poured with a liter of water and infused for 24 hours.
Presumably, this tool belongs to the 4th group of insecticides.

Sulfur

Very finely crushed (colloidal) sulfur has a deadly effect on all types of mites. A fairly effective remedy. However, few people write that in the case of the Spider Mite, the result will be only when used correctly. Sulfur powder is not toxic to humans, but only Margaritas use this remedy. The smell in the apartment, however, will be demonic.
Although ..., of course, it depends on what to compare.
So, they do this - they take the tree out onto the balcony, spray it with water fog, when the leaves fog up slightly, blow off the powder from a piece of paper onto them. Then, if necessary, sprinkle a little soil in the pot. And then they bring it into a room where there is no wind.
Yes, I almost forgot, the temperature should be above 24 degrees Celsius. For some reason, everyone forgets about it. And the teapots then suffer.

Chemicals

There are a lot of pest control chemicals. I am not in a position to give a complete list of them. Therefore, I will indicate the most common and best. The methods of their use are indicated in the accompanying instructions. It also indicates which group of insecticides this agent belongs to. I remind you that it is unacceptable to use groups 1,2,3 in an apartment. You yourself get poisoned, and the pests will only laugh. Group 1 is the most dangerous.

Bacterial drugs

What a horror! What is it, scary? In a nutshell, you infect your pests with an incurable disease. Beetles also get sick, only these diseases do not affect people.

Bitoxibacillin.

Good acaricidal agent. But, I don't know if it really works in our case. Maybe they lie, as usual?

Bicol.

Also an acaricidal agent. I also don't know if it really works in our case.

Verticillin.

A good remedy for whitefly. It has not been verified whether it really works in our case.

Boverin.

A good remedy for thrips. Not tested.

Biological control methods

We all have natural enemies. For example, I have a boss. So pests also have it.

Aphids are eaten by the Ladybug, the larvae of the Golden Head and other insects.
Spider mites are predatory mites.
Scabbard - ticks and bugs. But don't count on that. For each type of scale insect, you need to select your own pest. This is done only on industrial plantations.
Thrips - kill predatory mites Amblyseius barkeri or Neoseiulus cucumeris.
Whitefly - the wasp race of Encarsia formosa.

In many modern greenhouses, Spider Mites and Thrips are fought in this way, for environmental reasons. That's where you can get 15-20 predators sitting on a tomato leaf. It'll be enough.

Scabbard Fight

Has the shield got started? - get ready for protracted battles. Adult insects are scraped off by hand. The topsoil must be replaced with fresh soil. The window sill and everything around is wiped with a damp cloth five times. The plant is then sprayed with an insecticide from Shultz or Thiofos. The entire scraping-spraying procedure is repeated 3-5 times with an interval of 10-20 days.

As far as I know, the only sure remedy for the Scabbard is FASTAK. They say AKTARA acts in the same way, or even better.

If the tree is small and has become infected very recently, less toxic agents can be used.

In the case of seedlings, you can get rid of the scabbard even by simple mechanical removal and frequent washing under the shower.

Fighting Whitefly

Getting rid of a whitefly is quite difficult. Rinse whitefly eggs and larvae off the leaves regularly. Destroy butterflies mechanically. Treatment of plants with infusion of garlic helps.

One woman got rid of a whitefly with a moth repellent. I read about this on a decent forum. And on another decent forum, I learned that in the city, ...
in the evenings,...
the yellow sheet flies!
Ooh ...!

Control measures are complicated by the fact that when you touch the plant, whiteflies fly in different directions. Collecting insects is possible only in the cold early morning.

I advise you to use yellow glue traps for catching, or a powerful vacuum cleaner.

If the plants are severely affected by the whitefly, it is necessary to spray with insecticides. The procedure must be repeated five times, every three days.
In very severe cases, pesticides are periodically changed so as not to addictive pests. You can apply drugs Actellik, Fufanon, Intavir, Decis, Fastak.

From biological methods use: Verticillin.

In pest control, the duration, degree of damage and the number and size of your plants are important.
In other words, if you have a little seedling with pests, you need to immediately take control measures and you will quite easily get rid of even the scale insect. Well, if you have a whole plantation of adult plants, and you discovered the pest too late, you will have to wage protracted battles even with a not very terrible enemy.

Height: 10-15 cm.

The most unpretentious large lemon variety. Refers to the natural hybrid between lemon and citron. The leaves are dark green, oblong-rounded, the petiole is short with small but distinct wings. Each leaf lives for 2-3 years.
Panderoza begins to bear fruit in the second year of life. It blooms profusely, with slightly larger flowers than other varieties. Early and excessively abundant flowering interferes with the normal development of a young plant, so the extra buds must be cut off. The fruits are very large, but there are few of them. The average weight is 300-400 grams, and sometimes they reach 1 kg!

The pulp of the fruit is light green, tasty, not very sour. The rind is thick and rough. Often there are many seeds in the fruit.

CARE TIPS

It is not recommended to replant lemon trees with flowers or fruits, as this leads to the loss of both. The soil for young plants needs light, and for large ones it is heavier. The acidity of the soil for citrus fruits should be pH = 6.5-7.

To create optimal lighting for lemon throughout the year, you can move the plants back into the room in summer, and, on the contrary, in winter, move the plants as close to the window as possible. With a lack of lighting, the plant will be poorly leafed and will lose its decorative appeal. Lemon fruits with a lack of light are characterized by high acidity. On the contrary, in strong sunlight in summer, the plant will get burns.

Temperature: Lemons are demanding for light and warmth. Budding, flowering and fruit setting occur best at an average air and soil temperature of + 15-18 ° C.
In winter, citrus fruits are recommended to be kept in a bright, cold room (up to 12 ° C). The lack of cold wintering can lead to the fact that the plant does not bear fruit. In addition, lemons are quite sensitive to climate change. If you put a fruiting tree on the street, then due to a sharp change in daylight hours and temperature conditions, it can shed fruits and even leaves, the result of a change in climate may be a lack of fruiting for the next year.

Lighting: Bright diffused light. It will be good near the east and west windows. Shading from direct sun is needed in spring and summer during the hottest hours. imon belong to plants with short daylight hours, i.e. with too long daylight hours, they grow, and fruiting is delayed.

Watering: In summer and spring it is abundant 1-2 times a day with warm water, in winter watering is rare and moderate - 1-2 times a week and also with warm water. However, in winter, the earthen coma should not be allowed to dry out, as this leads to curling of the leaves and the fall of not only leaves, but also fruits. On the other hand, one should not forget that plants die from excess moisture. Beginning in October, watering is reduced. To provide breathing for the roots and prevent stagnation of water in the pot, the top layer of earth in lemons is periodically loosened.

Air humidity: Lemons are regularly sprayed during the summer, but if kept in a centrally heated room during the winter, they are sprayed in the winter as well. When kept indoors with dry air, lemons are attacked by pests (ticks and scale insects). The optimum air humidity for lemons is 60-70%, usually at temperatures no higher than 20 ° C.

Transfer: Young lemon trees should be replanted annually by transshipment. The transshipment should not be carried out if the roots of the plant have not yet braided an earthen ball. In this case, it is enough to change the drainage and top soil layers in the pot.
Fruiting lemon trees are transplanted no more than once every 2-3 years. Transplanted before the start of growth. At the end of the growth, the plants are not recommended to be replanted. When transplanting, you should not greatly destroy the earthen lump. Good drainage must be ensured. The root collar in the new dish should be at the same level as in the old dish.

Soil for young lemons: 2 parts of turf, 1 part of leafy soil, 1 part of humus from cow dung and 1 part of sand.

Soil for adult lemons: 3 parts turf, 1 part leaf, 1 part humus from cow dung, 1 part sand and a small amount of oily clay.

Fertilizing lemons: In the first half of summer, fertilizing watering is used. It increases the sugar content of the fruit and reduces the bitter taste that is characteristic of citrus fruits at room culture. The plant needs more fertilization, the older it is and the longer it is in the same container. Fertilizers are applied after watering. With additional artificial lighting, citrus fruits in winter also need to be fertilized.

Reproduction: Reproduction of lemons is usually carried out by grafting, cuttings, layering and seeds. Under indoor conditions, the most common way of propagating citrus fruits is cuttings, but in order to obtain varieties of lemons that are fully adapted to room culture, you need to remove them from a seed sown in a room and grow them indoors.

Growing problems

New leaves are getting smaller the old ones turn yellow and fall off, there is no flowering, the fruits are not tied - the plant does not have enough nutrients, it needs to be transplanted into nutrient soil.

Yellow spots appear on the leaves or the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the leaves fall off prematurely - with excessive watering, watering should be moderate, i.e. the soil should have time to dry out. Also, with irregular watering, when watered more, then very little.

Dry shriveled leaves- sunburn, pest damage.

Sudden leaf fall- waterlogged soil, lack of light in winter, watering with cold water, low room temperature in winter, excess nutrients in the soil or cold drafts.

Pests

Shields: brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, sucking out cell sap. Leaves lose color, dry out and fall off. The buds and flowers dry up, the fruits crumble.
Control measures. It is difficult to mechanically remove scale insects from a large tree, so you need to spray it with insecticide as thoroughly as possible. Good results are obtained with 0.15% actellic solution (1-2 ml per liter of water), you can use karbofos or decisse.

Spider mite: appears when the air is too dry - a cobweb appears in the internodes on the stems, the leaves and buds become lethargic and fall off. The fruits are crumbling.
Control measures. The plant is washed with soapy water, and after it dries, it is washed under a warm shower. If the defeat is not strong, then this is enough. With a very severe lesion, lemon can be sprayed with 0.15% actellic solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).

Growing citrus fruits at home, in addition to pleasure, also brings real fruits. A convenient variety for home use is the Panderoza lemon, which gives large fragrant citruses that will delight you with taste, and the plant itself will decorate the apartment and create coziness. The plant is famous for its unpretentiousness, which makes cultivation affordable even for inexperienced growers.

Panderoza is a lemon / citron hybrid, but its origin story is not clear. The breeder's laurels are attributed to the American Bowman, who allegedly managed to cross two types of citrus fruits in 1887.

Most citrus growers lean towards natural crossing and natural origins of the hybrid. Citrus got its name from the Spanish "panderosa" - heavy. This characteristic describes the giant fruit that a small tree bears. Large lemons, which sometimes grow to a kilogram, are the main miracle of Panderosa.

Flowering process

Panderoza blooms regularly and profusely, the bush is strewn with flowers that even cover the trunk. Main characteristics of flowering:

1. At home, the bush blooms 2-3 times a year.
2. A large number of flowers of a white-cream shade with loose inflorescences, long petals, large flowers.
3. During flowering, the bush smells sweet with a pleasant delicate aroma.
4. Most flowers do not form ovaries.

To allow the lemon to grow and ripen, you need to leave a few crown leaves that form the nutrition of the fetus. A small bush simply cannot feed many ovaries. Flowers interfere with the growth of shoots, so they must be removed from the trunk at the bud stage.

Crown characteristic

The plant is ideal for growing in a room - the height does not exceed one and a half meters. The bush gives many shoots, so you can easily give the tree the desired shape.

The foliage is rich in color, smooth, changes every 3 years. The cuttings of the leaves are short, the shape of the plate is oval-oblong, up to 15 centimeters long.

The trunk is covered with gray bark, young shoots are colored light green. Thorns grow only on old trunks; they are absent on young branches.

Panderoza is a spectacular ornamental plant in the form of a bush or tree, which takes root well in an apartment, delighting with bright greens and yellow-green fruits.

Description of fruits

With an insignificant crown, most of the ovaries cannot grow, and are thrown off by the plant. Panderoza fruits have the following features:

1. Considerable size. Usually 250 grams, but sometimes up to 500 grams or more.
2. Thick, bumpy skin of a bitter taste.
3. Very slow growth and maturation - up to 10 months.
4. In adulthood (after 10 years) it can produce several dozen lemons.
5. Fragrant pulp with a slight sourness and an abundance of seeds.

Panderoza does not delay fruiting. The first lemons will grow in the second year.

Pros and cons of the variety

Those who are just going to grow Panderoza should learn about the advantages and disadvantages of citrus. The advantages are:

• ease of growing, unpretentiousness;
• compactness, convenient for an apartment;
• nice decorative look;
• the size of the fruits, their impressive appearance on the bush.

Among the negative qualities of Panderoza lemon are:

• thick bitter skin;
• a significant number of seeds;
• coarse flesh, thick films between the slices.

Breeders believe that there are tastier varieties.

Help: "Panderosis syndrome" - the formation of an excess of ovaries that cannot ripen.

Rules for planting a tree at home

At home, there are two options for planting Panderoza - seeds and cuttings.

The seed is removed from the ripe fruit and planted in the soil at any time. Provide soil moisture, good lighting and warmth, fertilize after 3-4 weeks. After the formation of a pair of sheets, they are transplanted. Note that the harvest when planting with seeds will take a long time - 7-10 years.

How to root a Panderose lemon stalk?

The stalk is cut from an adult plant. It can be germinated in land or water. The soil is taken light, with a sand content. The lower part of the layering is lowered into a growth biostimulator and buried 2 centimeters into the ground. Cover with a film.

Cuttings need timely watering, sun. Disembarkation is best done in May, when it is warm and full of light. Rooting takes a long time, the use of a root growth stimulant helps to speed up the process.

If buds appear on the cut, they are removed. You can understand about rooting by the appearance of the leaves.

Care features

Even unpretentious plants need to follow certain rules of care in order to grow well and avoid diseases.

If the lemon has just arrived at the house, it is quarantined, separated from other plants, and regularly carefully inspected so as not to miss pests.

Panderoza's permanent place of residence should be in the sun part of the time - lemon needs light. In the autumn-winter time, the backlight will not hurt; on dark days, the pot is rearranged closer to the window.

Humidity and temperature requirements

Lemon loves warmth, tolerates high room temperatures well, but needs ventilation. You can keep the plant near open windows, vents, if the cold does not come from the street.

With the onset of heat, the bush is taken out to the loggia or to the garden (temperature is above 15 °), avoiding constant exposure to the sun (partial shade).

Important: if the flower lives on the windowsill, the lemon is isolated from hot batteries.

Panderoza loves spraying and moisturizing the crown. When the heating works and the air in the room is dry, containers with water are placed next to the plant and sprayed regularly.

Transfer

You need to increase the lemon pot annually (by 2-4 centimeters). If the size of the plant no longer allows it, they remove and replace the top layer of the earth, trying not to hurt the roots.

The pot is replaced by transshipment. A new container is prepared, drainage is poured. Take Panderoza out of the old pot, holding the ground with your hand so that it does not fall from the roots. It is impossible to free the roots from the old soil - the bush will hurt for a long time.

By moving the plant to another pot, the voids are filled with fresh soil. Top dressing is not required for a month.

Watering

When watering, the soil must be wetted completely, being careful not to pour in excess water. The next time it is watered when the soil is dry on top (2 centimeters). Panderoza does not like excess moisture - the roots begin to suffocate, the edges of the leaves turn brown.

If the plant cannot cope with excess water, the clod of earth does not dry out, the bush is taken out of the pot and the soil is dried.

Lemon loves moisture - you should not wait for the leaves to wilt. Regular watering is the key to the normal growth of the bush and fruits.

Top dressing

When it's warm, fertilizer is applied every 10 days; in winter, once a month is enough. For top dressing, a citrus fertilizer is chosen. When using other types of fertilizers, the acidity of the soil is restored by adding a few drops of lemon juice to the water during watering (once a month).

Crown formation

Panderoza produces many shoots and branches well. When forming the crown, ugly growing branches are cut out, giving the tree the desired appearance. Airing is necessary for all parts of the plant, thickening impairs the access of air and sunlight.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, before flowering, and unnecessary shoots on the trunk are removed as soon as they appear. It is useful to rotate the plant regularly so that the crown grows evenly.

Diseases and pests

Ticks attack Panderosa when the air and clod are dry. Adequate hydration, as recommended, will help prevent insect infestation.

The mealybug is removed from the leaves and wiped with a weak alcohol-containing solution, being careful not to burn the leaf plates and the trunk.

When infected, the appropriate insecticides are selected and treated according to the instructions.

The tree, with good care, is slightly susceptible to pests. If an infection has occurred, it is necessary to restore the recommended conditions of detention - to increase the humidity of the air, observe the temperature regime and illumination.

Harvesting and storage

The fruits ripen in 6-10 months, and do not fall off by themselves. They are cut and stored in a cold place as they mature. The real harvest is usually obtained in the third year - 5-6 lemons.

Lemon Panderoza is an easy-to-grow, beautiful plant that can decorate a room and bring a harvest. If the tree receives what it needs for life, it will live up to 50 years, constantly delighting the owner with abundant flowering and bright fruits.