We repair the hob with our own hands. We repair the hob with our own hands Repair of induction panels

Increasingly, instead of a stove in the kitchen, a hob and a separate oven are installed. Built-in appliances fit better into the interior, have more modern look. Today we will talk about how to repair such equipment, namely hobs. They are electric, induction and gas. Each type has its own damage, but there are some common points. Learn more about cooktop repair different types we will tell further.

Electric hob repair

In case of any breakdown of electrical and induction hob The first step is to check if the power supply is normal. Start with basic things.

Only after you have checked all these parameters should you move on. Repair of the hob should begin with determining the exact nature of the malfunction. It suggests that it might be the cause.

Dismantling the cooking surface

In order to further repair the hob with your own hands, it must be turned off and dismantled, and then disassembled - remove the front panel. We turn off the power on the shield by turning off the machine and the RCD on this line. If a cord was used when connecting, unplug it from the outlet. After that, we start a sharp object in the gap between the hob and the countertop, raise it.

Removing the ceramic plate gives access to electrical components

If you connected the hob directly or through a block, you need to unscrew the wires. To do this, remove (raise or unscrew) the cover that covers the wires. Before you remove them, sketch or better - take a picture of how the wires are connected. This will make it easier to put everything back in place.

After that, the hob is transferred to the table (cover it with a clean cloth so as not to scratch the front panel) and lay it face down.

Problems with burners

If all the burners do not heat up, there may be problems with the power supply, but we would have already identified them. What else can be? Power circuit fuse blown. This happens during power surges. Find where it is installed and inspect or call, replace if necessary. It costs quite a bit, it is easy to replace - pull the old one out of the holders, install a new one.

If problems with heating the burners began immediately after installing the hob, the reason may be that the wire was selected with insufficient cross section. Read this article and choose the correct section, connect a new cable or cord.

If one of the burners does not heat up (or heats up slightly), the following breakdowns may be the causes:

Most often, various problems with burners are associated precisely with a malfunction of the temperature sensor or control relay. If one burner does not turn on, after some time it turns off spontaneously, on the contrary, it does not turn off until you turn it off from the network ... all this and other similar problems are caused by the incorrect operation of these sensors on a specific burner and you need to look first of all there. There is another option - problems with the management (processor). But they will be described further.

Touchpad Issues

Sometimes a malfunction of the hob is caused by incorrect operation of the touch panel. You can understand what's going on in it by ear. Its correct operation is accompanied by sound signals. If they don't, then something is wrong. The panel is not responding. This may be due to the fact that the surface and panel are dirty and simply cannot understand that they are being accessed. In this case, it is necessary to wash the panel, wipe it, then try everything again.

Sometimes the control board can "fail". To fix the problem, we de-energize (turn off the power completely by pulling the plug out of the socket or turning off the machine on the shield). We are waiting for 20-30 minutes, turn it on again. There is a complete reboot, perhaps the problem will be solved.

One of the options for the hob control panel

If all this did not help, it is necessary to disassemble the surface, check the power supply in series, then the existing element base - capacitors, varistors, transformer. If there are no problems here, the repair of the hob is over for you, since the remaining reason is the microprocessor, but testing it is a job for specialists.

Repair of induction panels

The peculiarity of the induction hob is that the heating is turned on only if there is a special cookware on the burner. It stops immediately after the dishes are removed. That is, you can check whether the burner is working only by installing suitable dishes on it. But, in case of any problems, a message about the status of the device and an error code are displayed on the control panel. We look at its decoding in the instructions, so we determine the approximate nature of the damage.

Heats up only when there is a certain type of metal cookware (magnetic)

If the surface is not included in the work

If the stove does not work at all, it is worth starting the repair of the induction-type hob, as described above, by checking the power supply, cord, contacts, etc. To begin with, you need to exclude the most simple options and then look for damage further.

If nothing was found during the inspection, and the induction hob still does not work, turn it off, transfer it to the table with a spread cloth, laying it face down, remove the glass-ceramic panel from it (unscrew the fixing bolts). Most problems with induction furnaces associated with the power block and the breakdown of the elements. This is due to power surges and to prevent such problems, it is better to install a stabilizer.

We begin the test with the continuity of the power unit. These are diode bridges, transistors and a fuse. There is only one fuse - it is easy to find and check it.

These are holders for installing a fuse - a glass bulb with a wire inside

Diode bridges and transistors are located next to the radiator and burner control keys. We turn on the multimeter in the continuity mode and check the diode bridges and transistors.

Repair of the hob: we call transistors and a diode bridge

If there is a breakdown, we will hear how the device squeaks - this element is faulty and must be replaced. Solder the old one, install the new one. If it is impossible to find a spare part of the same company, select with similar characteristics. But there may be problems when soldering, as they can have different dimensions. This is not so important, performance is important.

When replacing, it may not turn out quite beautifully.

After replacement, we check all power circuits for the absence of breakdown and short circuit. We especially carefully check the part that is associated with broken elements - there may still be failed elements. If there are no other damages, we assemble the panel, connect it, and test it.

For a detailed process of repairing an AEG (Elektrolux) induction hob, see the following video.

Other problems

This technique is more complex and possible faults as well as many reasons. Here are the most common problems and how to fix them.

You can avoid most problems by carefully studying the instruction manual and powering the equipment through a stabilizer. Then repair of the induction type hob may not be needed at all.

Gas hob repair

In a gas hob, you can only repair the electric ignition and the gas control system on your own. With them, in principle, the main problems arise. Since the gas hob with electric ignition is also connected to electricity, when common problems with the electrical part (piezo ignition does not work at all), first check the power supply at the outlet, inspect the integrity of the wire. If everything is fine here, you can go deeper.

You can repair the gas hob yourself

Electric ignition button does not work (no spark)

Electric ignition is a convenient thing, but from time to time the spark stops “jumping” and the fire on some burner does not light up. You can light it by pressing the button of another burner. They are connected in parallel and when you press one, there is a spark on all burners. But this situation is abnormal and the spark must be restored. Repair of the hob in this case is not very difficult. There are several reasons:

What else can be done is to check the contacts and soldering. Contacts, if necessary, tighten or clean from dirt, soldering, if cold is found, resolder. How can you tell if a solder is cold? If you pry the tin with something hard (the end of a multimeter probe, for example), it moves or flies off, there may be cracks in it. In this case, warm up the soldering iron, re-melt the solder.

After ignition, the flame goes out on the burner

In many modern gas stoves or cooking surfaces have a gas control function. Near each burner there is a sensor that monitors the presence of a flame. If there is no flame, the gas supply stops. The function is useful, but sometimes problems begin - after ignition, when you release the on/off knob, the flame goes out. The fact is that the sensor - a thermocouple - is dirty or out of order and "does not see" the flame.

Where is the thermocouple located in a gas stove

First you need to try to clean all the sensors. They quickly become overgrown with grease during operation, so they require periodic cleaning. First, turn off the power, remove the burners, remove the handles, unscrew the front panel. We find a thermocouple on a non-working burner. This is a small metal pin located close to gas burner. In some models of gas hobs, it can simply be inserted, in others there is a latch. It is necessary to get the sensor out of the socket and clean it from contamination. Use regular kitchen dishwashing chemicals or something stronger. It's important to get results. We wash the sensors, dry them, put them in place. You can check your work.

Sometimes it happens that even after cleaning, some burners do not work. This means that the thermocouple has failed. In this case, the repair of the gas-powered hob is the replacement of the thermocouple. You already know how to get to it, but it turns off simply: you need to remove the corresponding wires from the block. Take out the old sensor and put in the new one. We put the cover back in place, check the work. That, in fact, is all.

One important point: if your equipment is under warranty, you should not repair it yourself, otherwise you will be denied warranty repairs.

What do you need for daily cooking? High temperature and the ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not so many types of home “hearth”.

• kerosene burner - 5 decades ago was the main element in any kitchen;
• gas stove - by far the most massive "hearth";
• electric stove - can be a separate element or a built-in component of the kitchen.

Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian affair (that is, the hostess was only interested in the process of cooking), no one thought about appearance electric stoves.

Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive device:

• frame;
• heating element (spiral or heating element in its own case);
• thermostat (not present in every model);
• mechanical heating regulator (coil resistance switch).

It was possible to repair such a stove with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easily made by hand: nichrome wire was wound around an ordinary pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden mandrel. The steel rod was inserted into the cartridge, and the winding process was much faster.

Modern hobs

Then fashion trends came to the kitchen modern design, and simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen nooks and furniture sets. There were hobs that are built into the countertop.

Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they are distinguished by advanced functionality. The heating element is controlled by electronic controllers, there are various systems security. Most products are equipped with touch control panels; you will not find a mechanical handle even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob with your own hands, you must have basic knowledge of electronics.

Types of heating elements of a modern electric stove

The usual spiral in ceramic insulator holders has not been used for a long time. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect effects:

Having dealt with the design of the heaters, you can repair your own hob.

Hob malfunctions

If one of the burners does not work, this can be experienced. But the breakdown of the entire plate is already a problem. You can take the equipment to the workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.

All faults can be divided into 3 groups

• Heating element failure: For spiral or halogen burners, this is a mechanical rather than electrical problem and is repairable. In an extreme case (for example, a halogen heater), a simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle, the problem may be in the electronics.
• Failure of switching elements or conductors. These can be relays, contacts, thyristor keys. Relate to not the most complex elements during repair.
• Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without a deep knowledge of electronics, it will not be possible to repair these elements. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.

Before starting a complex repair, try to diagnose "problems" that can be fixed without disassembling the structure.

For example, check the power supply from the incoming circuit breaker, before connecting the power cable directly from the panel (including the socket, if any). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the contact block of the plate.

If the control panel does not work, check that it is dry (if there are movable keys) and clean (in the touch unit). Often a layer of dried spray simply prevents the touch buttons from "feeling" your fingers.

How to disassemble the hob

Most often, panels built into the kitchen worktop are used. The electrical appliance has an independent housing with a decorative plane, under which the heating elements are located. Carefully remove the panel and lay it face down on a flat surface. Before starting disassembly, it is recommended to disconnect the power wires. It will not be superfluous to recall that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.

After carefully dismantling the cover, we get full access to the "internal organs" of the panel. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements located in the so-called working "trough" without dividing barriers. The illustration shows a variant where "HiLight" type heaters are installed on all burners.

Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (tape) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. When localizing a malfunction, you can easily remove the assembly for replacement or a more detailed check.

For example, you can remove the heater in an insulating housing, apply power to it, and check its operation using the instrument.

Repair of direct heating hob (individual units)

Troubleshooting is done from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the wiring, and the performance of the heating elements. Control over the on/off of the heating filament is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let that bother you. Doesn't matter power supply supplied by conventional relays, which are checked with a multimeter.

A burnt-out spiral (tape) usually changes entirely; this is not the most expensive element. As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for the tape, and connection with a screw terminal for the helix). This will allow for some time to return the operability of the plate. Such a “splice” will live for several days, so buy a new spare part as soon as possible.

Power relays cannot be restored, definitely - replacement.

The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, this is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.

As for the burnt wiring, you should select a wire with similar characteristics, make a whole bundle, and replace it using limit switches.

Contact groups before reassembly are checked for strength and absence of thermal damage, cleaned and reassembled.

If, after checking, it turned out that all power conductors and elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain. Self repair possible only with specialized skills and a detailed electrical circuit.

If you know for sure that it is the electronic module that does not work, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to a branded workshop. It will be checked (for a small fee) at the stand, or in a similar hob model. You can install a repaired or new unit in place yourself.

For information:

Some masters restore the functionality of the hob by changing the control scheme. For example, you can power the heating elements from a home-made manual control unit that is placed outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats up properly when connected directly, this method has the right to life.

Diagnostics and restoration of indirect heating panels

Repair of induction hobs is only possible for experienced electricians. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a common violation of the operating mode.

Typical malfunctions of induction heating systems

• The induction hob either does not turn on at all, or the power disappears immediately after the start of work. This may be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating surface, or the size does not match the diameter of the burner, the automation blocks the work. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
• The same problem (incorrect cookware) can lead to the fact that the induction hob does not work at full capacity.
• Independent switching on of the heater may be due to contamination of the stove, or the presence of a massive steel (cast iron) object next to it.

Real faults that are not associated with a violation of the operating mode appear in the circuit of the inductive field generator. As we have already noted, the winding fails extremely rarely.

Typical diagram in the illustration:

In fact, there are no space technologies here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for clearly “burned out” radio elements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, it makes no sense to explain the principle of checking the inductance generator, your level is sufficient for repair.

If you do not have enough experience, you will have to contact the masters. In any case, repairing a single unit is not as expensive as buying a new panel.

Causes of malfunctions

With the exception of a minimal percentage of real factory failures, most breakdowns occur due to violations of the connection and operation mode.

• unstable mains voltage disables electronics;
• the use of dishes that do not correspond to the dimensions of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
• impacts, spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks, chips, through which moisture penetrates into the body.

But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.

Related videos

Increasingly, instead of a stove in the kitchen, a hob and a separate oven are installed. Built-in appliances fit better into the interior, have a more modern look. Today we will talk about how to repair such equipment, namely hobs. They are electric, induction and gas. Each type has its own damage, but there are some common points. We will tell you more about the repair of various types of hob later.

Electric hob repair

In case of any breakdown of the electric and induction hob, the first thing to do is to check whether the power supply is normal. Start with basic things.

Only after you have checked all these parameters should you move on. Repair of the hob should begin with determining the exact nature of the malfunction. It suggests that it might be the cause.

Dismantling the cooking surface

In order to further repair the hob with your own hands, it must be turned off and dismantled, and then disassembled - remove the front panel. We turn off the power on the shield by turning off the machine and the RCD on this line. If a cord was used when connecting, unplug it from the outlet. After that, we start a sharp object in the gap between the hob and the countertop, raise it.

Removing the ceramic plate gives access to electrical components

If you connected the hob directly or through a block, you need to unscrew the wires. To do this, remove (raise or unscrew) the cover that covers the wires. Before you remove them, sketch or better - take a picture of how the wires are connected. This will make it easier to put everything back in place.

After that, the hob is transferred to the table (cover it with a clean cloth so as not to scratch the front panel) and lay it face down.

Problems with burners

If all the burners do not heat up, there may be problems with the power supply, but we would have already identified them. What else can be? Power circuit fuse blown. This happens during power surges. Find where it is installed and inspect or call, replace if necessary. It costs quite a bit, it is easy to replace - pull the old one out of the holders, install a new one.

If problems with heating the burners began immediately after installing the hob, the reason may be that the wire was selected with insufficient cross section. Read this article and choose the correct section, connect a new cable or cord.

If one of the burners does not heat up (or heats up slightly), the following breakdowns may be the causes:

Most often, various problems with burners are associated precisely with a malfunction of the temperature sensor or control relay. If one burner does not turn on, after some time it turns off spontaneously, on the contrary, it does not turn off until you turn it off from the network ... all this and other similar problems are caused by the incorrect operation of these sensors on a specific burner and you need to look first of all there. There is another option - problems with the management (processor). But they will be described further.

Touchpad Issues

Sometimes a malfunction of the hob is caused by incorrect operation of the touch panel. You can understand what's going on in it by ear. Its correct operation is accompanied by sound signals. If they don't, then something is wrong. The panel is not responding. This may be due to the fact that the surface and panel are dirty and simply cannot understand that they are being accessed. In this case, it is necessary to wash the panel, wipe it, then try everything again.

Sometimes the control board can "fail". To fix the problem, we de-energize (turn off the power completely by pulling the plug out of the socket or turning off the machine on the shield). We are waiting for 20-30 minutes, turn it on again. There is a complete reboot, perhaps the problem will be solved.

One of the options for the hob control panel

If all this did not help, it is necessary to disassemble the surface, check the power supply in series, then the existing element base - capacitors, varistors, transformer. If there are no problems here, the repair of the hob is over for you, since the remaining reason is the microprocessor, but testing it is a job for specialists.

Repair of induction panels

The peculiarity of the induction hob is that the heating is turned on only if there is a special cookware on the burner. It stops immediately after the dishes are removed. That is, you can check whether the burner is working only by installing suitable dishes on it. But, in case of any problems, a message about the status of the device and an error code are displayed on the control panel. We look at its decoding in the instructions, so we determine the approximate nature of the damage.

Heats up only when there is a certain type of metal cookware (magnetic)

If the surface is not included in the work

If the stove does not work at all, it is worth starting the repair of the induction-type hob, as described above, by checking the power supply, cord, contacts, etc. First you need to exclude the simplest options, and then look for damage further.

If nothing was found during the inspection, and the induction hob still does not work, turn it off, transfer it to the table with a spread cloth, laying it face down, remove the glass-ceramic panel from it (unscrew the fixing bolts). Most of the problems with induction furnaces are related to the power block and the breakdown of the elements. This is due to power surges and to prevent such problems, it is better to install a stabilizer.

We begin the test with the continuity of the power unit. These are diode bridges, transistors and a fuse. There is only one fuse - it is easy to find and check it.

These are holders for installing a fuse - a glass bulb with a wire inside

Diode bridges and transistors are located next to the radiator and burner control keys. We turn on the multimeter in the continuity mode and check the diode bridges and transistors.

Repair of the hob: we call transistors and a diode bridge

If there is a breakdown, we will hear how the device squeaks - this element is faulty and must be replaced. Solder the old one, install the new one. If it is impossible to find a spare part of the same company, select with similar characteristics. But there may be problems when soldering, as they can have different dimensions. This is not so important, performance is important.

When replacing, it may not turn out quite beautifully.

After replacement, we check all power circuits for the absence of breakdown and short circuit. We especially carefully check the part that is associated with broken elements - there may still be failed elements. If there are no other damages, we assemble the panel, connect it, and test it.

For a detailed process of repairing an AEG (Elektrolux) induction hob, see the following video.

Other problems

The device of this technique is more complex and there are many possible malfunctions, as well as reasons. Here are the most common problems and how to fix them.

You can avoid most problems by carefully studying the instruction manual and powering the equipment through a stabilizer. Then repair of the induction type hob may not be needed at all.

Gas hob repair

In a gas hob, you can only repair the electric ignition and the gas control system on your own. With them, in principle, the main problems arise. Since the gas hob with electric ignition is also connected to electricity, in case of general problems with the electrical part (piezo ignition does not work at all), first check the power supply at the outlet, inspect the integrity of the wire. If everything is fine here, you can go deeper.

You can repair the gas hob yourself

Electric ignition button does not work (no spark)

Electric ignition is a convenient thing, but from time to time the spark stops “jumping” and the fire on some burner does not light up. You can light it by pressing the button of another burner. They are connected in parallel and when you press one, there is a spark on all burners. But this situation is abnormal and the spark must be restored. Repair of the hob in this case is not very difficult. There are several reasons:

What else can be done is to check the contacts and soldering. Contacts, if necessary, tighten or clean from dirt, soldering, if cold is found, resolder. How can you tell if a solder is cold? If you pry the tin with something hard (the end of a multimeter probe, for example), it moves or flies off, there may be cracks in it. In this case, warm up the soldering iron, re-melt the solder.

After ignition, the flame goes out on the burner

Many modern gas stoves or hobs have a gas control function. Near each burner there is a sensor that monitors the presence of a flame. If there is no flame, the gas supply stops. The function is useful, but sometimes problems begin - after ignition, when you release the on/off knob, the flame goes out. The fact is that the sensor - a thermocouple - is dirty or out of order and "does not see" the flame.

Where is the thermocouple located in a gas stove

First you need to try to clean all the sensors. They quickly become overgrown with grease during operation, so they require periodic cleaning. First, turn off the power, remove the burners, remove the handles, unscrew the front panel. We find a thermocouple on a non-working burner. This is a small metal pin located close to the gas burner. In some models of gas hobs, it can simply be inserted, in others there is a latch. It is necessary to get the sensor out of the socket and clean it from contamination. Use regular kitchen dishwashing chemicals or something stronger. It's important to get results. We wash the sensors, dry them, put them in place. You can check your work.

Sometimes it happens that even after cleaning, some burners do not work. This means that the thermocouple has failed. In this case, the repair of the gas-powered hob is the replacement of the thermocouple. You already know how to get to it, but it turns off simply: you need to remove the corresponding wires from the block. Take out the old sensor and put in the new one. We put the cover back in place, check the work. That, in fact, is all.

One important point: if your equipment is under warranty, you should not repair it yourself, otherwise you will be denied warranty repairs.

The hob is one of the most important appliances in the kitchen, and, like any other technique, it is prone to breakdowns, but it is quite simple to make repairs yourself. If a malfunction is discovered during the warranty period, your stove will be repaired free of charge. But if the breakdown occurred after a few years, you can try to repair the hob yourself, since contacting specialists can cost a little less than buying a new stove.

In this article, our specialists have listed all the malfunctions of the hobs and, in stages, have dismantled the process of repairing malfunctions with their own hands.

Electric hob

The hob does not turn on- the most common fault electrical panels, the device is plugged in, but does not work at all, or only one of the burners does not heat up. Do-it-yourself repair can be disassembled into the following steps:

1. We check the voltage in the outlet, due to heavy loads, the outlet contacts often burn out.
2. We check the plug and cord for mechanical damage - they can simply short-circuit or even break the chain. Most often, damage is observed at the points where the panel is connected to the outlet. Found damage - we replace the cord.
3. We turn off the power, remove the fasteners and dismantle the surface from the countertop. We disassemble the surface and proceed to the next step.
4. We take a multimeter and check the transformer, the next step is to check the thermal fuse. If there is no resistance or if it differs significantly from that declared by the manufacturer, replacement parts are necessary; they are sold in many electronics stores.
5. One burner on the hob not working- it is necessary to check all the wires, as well as their connections to the burners, thermostat, switches, control panel for the fact of an open circuit. If the malfunction is not visually visible, all contacts are in place, we take a multimeter and check each connection.

If you don't have a multimeter, you can use indicator screwdriver, which can check the presence of voltage in all parts of the circuit. We also recommend watching a video that will help you repair the hobs yourself.

Electrical Panel Faults

The main malfunctions that users of electric hobs may encounter are as follows:

• Blown fuse- occurs due to a power surge. Low price on a new fuse and a simple replacement process makes it easy to repair this fault yourself. For the future, we advise you to purchase a device that will protect your electrical network from power surges.
• If one or two burners are not working. We check the wire supplying voltage to the heating element. Under the influence of temperature, it is soldered. Repair is very simple, just solder it in place with a soldering iron. If the circuit is not broken, the heating element itself has burned out, you will need to buy a new one and replace it. Before changing, make sure there is a circuit between the heating element and the control panel, the cause of the malfunction may be poor contact.
• Sensor not working– the hob does not turn on. One of the rare and most difficult malfunctions of touch hobs. You can again check the circuit, if there is no break, then you will have to replace the touch panel completely, but it is better to take it in for repair. The reason may be improper operation, care by prohibited means. Only a specialist who is perfectly familiar with electronics can repair at home.
• The burner does not heat up well or does not work at all. The reason is poor contact with the heating element, thermostat or thermostat - we check the presence of electricity in the circuit between these segments.
• The hob gets very hot, works and does not turn off- thermostat malfunction. The thermostat is not repairable, you should buy a new one and replace it.
• Cracked glass ceramic surface. We find out the reason, if you didn’t drop anything heavy, we turn to the service under warranty, this is a typical factory defect, the manufacturer will repair it for free. If you yourself are to blame for the crack, you will have to give the panel for repair, it is quite difficult to replace it with your own hands. Please note that glass replacement repairs are very expensive, so operate the panel according to the instructions.

induction hob

Induction panels, although they are the most modern and high-tech devices, are also not immune from malfunctions. Let's analyze the main faults induction panels, and what repairs you can try to do with your own hands.

1. The induction hob does not turn on or immediately turns off- most often this is a feature of this type of panel, and not a malfunction. The induction hob has a protective function, if you use the wrong diameter or material of the cookware, the hob will automatically turn off the power, while the burner will not heat up. Also, the burner will automatically turn off if you remove the dishes from the surface.
2. The induction cooker heats up long and weakly- again, read the requirements for dishes in the instructions. 90% of induction cooker malfunctions are due to the wrong cookware.
3. The induction hob turns on by itself, although there are no dishes on the burner. Remove all metal objects and clean the stove from salt, if this does not help, you have a problem in the control unit, it needs to be repaired or replaced. It is better to contact the service.
4. Induction hob not working. The principle of diagnostics and repair does not change, the specialists first check the fuse. then they call the entire circuit for a break and replace the burnt part.

Gas hob

The latest type of cooking appliances - gas surface. One of the simplest and easiest to repair with your own hands. Less electronics are used, so there are not many malfunctions and everything is easily fixed.

• Gas does not ignite or ignites poorly. Immediately check the electric ignition (piezo) for blockage or liquid. In 90% of cases, it is enough to thoroughly wash it and dry it. If this does not help, we check the presence of electricity in the circuit leading to the piezo coil.
• The gas hob does not turn on because the gas does not flow to the burner. Repair of hobs in these cases is not needed, prevention is enough. Checking gas pipe if the valve is open and there is gas in the system, we proceed to check the injectors. Clogging occurs with fat or food residue, it is enough to clean it. Do not forget to wipe dry after cleaning, moisture should not remain. If moisture remains, the piezo will not ignite.

Modern hobs are equipped with fault detection sensors and diagnostic modules, an error code appears on the screen. We find the code in the instructions and follow the indicated recommendations to eliminate a specific malfunction. Use the forums, where you can find real reviews and DIY repair experience from specialists and other users, it is your model with detailed instructions and photo.

If we analyze all the malfunctions of the hobs that may occur during operation, we can say with confidence that most of them can be repaired by oneself.

To summarize, the rating of faults

• Blown fuse
• Contact broken
• chain broken
• Cable damage
• Clogged plates, nozzles
• Broken heating element
• Sensor not working

All these malfunctions are fixed by hand if you are faced with more difficult problem and are not sure of your knowledge and strength, contact the service center.

According to the principle of induction, popular in hobs, heat is directed to the contents of the pot, and not to the surface of the stove and dishes in which the dish is cooked.

These devices, based on technological advances, most often break like this:

	The unit turns off immediately after turning on, or does not turn on at all
	Induction provides a low degree of heating
	The stove lives its own life, turning on by itself, even when there is no frying pan or kettle on the burner
	The panel doesn't work at all.

Most often, the owners of induction panels are concerned about the complete failure of the stove to perform its functions: the kitchen assistant turns off after being turned on, or does not show any signs of life at all. Most often, this situation provokes improper use of the unit. It’s just that the “smart” panel recognizes the wrong one used for cooking and announces a “strike” if you decide to cook food in a saucepan from a material that is not suitable for the unit. Yes, size matters too!

Advice: want to induction cooker pleased with trouble-free work? Use the right pots and pans! The instructions for each product describe in detail which dishes can be used on a particular panel. Do not neglect the advice, and you will be happy in the form of a delicious lunch!

The traditional children's riddle "shines, but does not heat", with the spread of induction panels, received an unexpected answer: a surface and unsuitable dishes. Weak heating of the induction hob also belongs to the category of errors caused by the wrong choice of dishes. The bottom and teapots should be perfectly flat. Even millimeter notches or concavities provoke a decrease in the performance of the unit.

Even more annoying, and even more dangerous, is the spontaneous activation of the panel. Try the following in this situation:

1. Remove knives, forks, spoons, scrapers, foil from the hob - everything that contains metal;

2. Wash the surface to cleanly remove salt deposits.

Did not help? The operation of the control unit is broken. Here you can not do without a specialist.

The complete absence of any signs of the viability of the device has a number of reasons:

• No power at outlet. You can check it using any electrical appliance Let's say a coffee grinder.
• Blown fuse. To fix the problem, just replace the part.
• Broken contact in the circuit. In this case, it is advisable to contact the master.