Craftsmen, of whom there are plenty in every city with an average population, have long mastered the production of solid fuel boilers and stoves from steel or brick. Moreover, most of their products function quite reliably and efficiently. And only cast iron, as a material for homemade heaters, remained on the sidelines until recently. But there is already an initiative here, and in this article we are ready to present it and discuss the question of how to make a stove from a cast-iron bath yourself.

Homemade garden stove made of cast iron

Previously, it was not without reason that craftsmen ignored cast iron, although as a material for manufacturing heating equipment it is in high demand. The fact is that gray cast iron is difficult to process mechanically, and manufacturers of heating equipment use industrial casting to give it the required shape. These technologies are not available at home, so to make a stove you can take some kind of cast iron product and remake it, which was done by one of the home craftsmen. An old cast iron bathtub, of which there are still plenty left from the Soviet era, was suitable for this purpose.

Since this material is extremely hard and fragile, processing it requires not only a lot of patience, but also good metalworking skills. The garden stove shown above from an old cast iron bathtub is good example such skills and patience, and our task is to explain how this is done. The first thing you should do is take an angle grinder with a working diameter of 250 or 300 mm and stock up on cutting wheels for metal, then carefully measure half of the tub and draw a cutting line. The width of the cutting wheel must be taken into account.

Procurement work

The next operation is to cut the cast iron bathtub in half, strictly along the line. The work is hard and long, but quite doable. When there are 2 halves of a product, they must be fastened together. Again, welding cast iron parts at home is not possible, so the halves are bolted together, and a steel sheet is laid between them, separating the firebox from the oven.

For this purpose, the master took corrugated sheet metal about 8 mm thick, you can follow his example. If you have regular smooth metal of this thickness or a little more, it will also work, although it is better not to use a sheet thicker than 10 mm, this will affect the heating time of the oven. It is better to cut the blank from the sheet in advance, but if the available metal is slightly larger than the size of the bathroom, then this can be done later, on site.

Another step towards the goal is marking and drilling mounting holes in the cast iron bathtub and metal gasket. Let’s make a reservation right away that you will need high-quality drills and the ability to sharpen them, because cast iron will not just give up to you without a fight. To make 4 through holes, you will need to patiently sharpen the drills several times, while maintaining the working edge angle of at least 120º. Drilling different instruments, from small to large diameter, at low drill speeds, periodically lubricating with machine oil.

And the last labor-intensive operation is cutting a hole for the chimney pipe. While it is not very difficult to make it in a metal spacer 8 mm thick, then you will have to tinker with the bathtub. It is best to cut through the place where the bathroom drain used to be; it must be expanded to a diameter of 100 mm. When this operation is completed, you can begin assembly. First, the chimney pipe must be welded to a metal sheet.

Any knowledgeable stove maker will tell you that this place is the weakest in the entire structure of any steel heater; this joint burns out first. A cast iron stove from a bathtub is no exception, so it would be more correct to pass the pipe through a sheet and scald it on both sides.

Assembling the furnace body

When the element is ready, it is installed on the lower part of the bathtub, and the second part is placed on top. The craftsman used a special sealant at the joint as a seal, but asbestos or basalt cardboard can also be laid. Then the holes are aligned, the bolts are installed and tightened. At this point, the stove body can be considered ready.

To make a homemade stove from old bath has acquired a finished look, you need to cut out and attach a metal front panel, a sheet thickness of 5-6 mm is sufficient here, and then make doors and a grate. This entire structure should be installed on a pedestal made of brick. In order not to heat the street, the metal surfaces of the combustion chamber and oven must be insulated with a layer of basalt fiber and lined with any convenient material.

Since the bathroom can be used to make not only garden stoves, but also heaters for different rooms, then in the latter case, insulation of the body is not required so that the walls can freely transfer heat to the air environment of the room. Then the front panel will take on a different look, and the brick base will have to be refined finishing materials. At the same time, in front and behind the stove brickwork It is not worth erecting so that the firebox is freely washed with air. However, another craftsman can replace the brick support with a metal one, here everything is in your hands.

About the advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a homemade cast iron bathtub stove is its almost zero cost. The main investment is your work, and you will have to put in a lot of it. The second advantage is durability, it directly depends on the service life of welded joints chimney And front panel with doors, and tight fit of the main elements. As for the bathroom, even the enamel on it will not burn out right away.

For reference. In Soviet times for baths and kitchen utensils Silicon-based enamel (quartz sand) was used. It was applied to hardware in 2 layers (primer and glossy layer) and heated to a temperature of 860 ºС to quartz sand melted, and then cooling was carried out using a certain technology. This kind of coating, which protects cast iron, served for decades and was destroyed only by strong blows heavy object.

From a heating engineering point of view, operating efficiency homemade stove hardly exceeds 40% due to the direct release of flue gases from the firebox to the outside; they transfer only part of the heat to the oven, and the rest goes into the atmosphere. For this reason, a similar design is used as a sauna stove, where efficiency indicators are not so important, the main thing is temperature. True, only one half of the bathtub is taken and placed on a brick-lined base, and then the side walls are erected and the heater is installed.

Half of the bathtub serves as a reliable and durable firebox, which will not burn out very quickly, and will give off heat to the heater perfectly. As a result, less red will be spent on construction ceramic bricks, which will significantly reduce the cost of the steam room as a whole. The only caveat is that sauna stove correctly join two materials with different coefficients of thermal expansion - brick and cast iron. For this purpose, expansion joints are provided where asbestos or basalt cardboard is laid.

Conclusion

Such non-standard solutions in the design of do-it-yourself stoves amaze with their originality and simplicity. No one will doubt the reliability and durability of a homemade cast iron stove from a Soviet bathtub, but it was invented and assembled by a master with head and skillful hands at home. Any homeowner can make such products; subsequently, they will serve him faithfully for many years.

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Bathtub stove: 4 stages of creating a cast iron monster

There are never too many stoves in a well-equipped dacha, especially good ones, and old cast iron bath It would be a shame to sell it for scrap. These are exactly the thoughts that came to me after installing a brand new quaril font in my apartment. And I decided not to get rid of the previous massive tank, but to take it to a country site and convert it into an efficient stove structure. Next I will describe how it happened.

Stage No. 1: preparation of tools and materials

As for transporting the bathtub to the dacha, the most difficult thing was to bring it to the trailer. Cast iron is incredibly heavy and has magical property: Gain mass with every step you take. But somehow, my comrades and I, nevertheless, put the “hippopotamus” into the prepared vehicle and I delivered it to the site of further work.

Only after everyone had suffered as loaders did the brilliant idea come to me that it was necessary to saw the font in the bathroom, because this would still need to be done in the future to create a stove. But two halves are much more convenient and easier to carry than the entire cast iron product.

After delivering the main “beast”, I set about preparing all the other supplies necessary to complete the plan:

Tools

When working with a cast-iron bathtub cast back in Soviet times, I recommend using only high-quality power tools from well-known foreign brands, since cheap Chinese copies simply may not withstand such a difficult confrontation and burn out.

Materials

In addition to the cast iron container itself, I needed:

Stage No. 2: cutting the cast iron font

I want to warn you right away that this process very labor intensive, requiring great patience and care, since during its execution it is possible to break both the tool and the disc, resulting in a high probability of serious injury to people nearby.

In my execution it looked like this:

1. To start laid the bathtub upside down on the ground for the convenience of further operations;

If you cut containers indoors, be sure to cover the walls and furniture with plastic film or old rags, otherwise cast iron dust will settle on them, which is almost impossible to remove.

1. Strictly I drew a straight line in the middle with a marker, marking the location of the cut;

1. Further strictly according to the applied markings carefully made a cut into the enamel layer using a grinder, the depth of which is usually from 1.5 to 2.5 mm. If you immediately start sawing the cast iron itself, then chips will form on the enamel covering it;

1. Now moved on to cutting the font itself and did it slowly, regularly giving the instrument rest. Believe me, the price of haste here can be very high; the saved 20-30 minutes will not replace your burnt angle grinder.

Stage No. 2: installation work

Now it’s time to assemble a real stove from an old bathtub that you cut up with your own hands. I, in turn, will conditionally divide this part of the work into three phases:

Laying the foundation

I already mentioned above that a cast iron font is very, very heavy, so the structure being constructed will be even heavier. Therefore, without reliable foundation it will constantly undergo shrinkage processes, which will lead to deformation of the body, which is absolutely unacceptable. Therefore, I started the assembly by pouring a reliable foundation:

1. I dug a pit with my own hands using a shovel an area slightly larger than the future oven and a depth of 300 mm;

1. Then he covered the bottom with a ten-centimeter layer of sand mixed with crushed stone;
2. Along the perimeter put out the formwork from the boards;
3. Installed fittings inside;
4. Mixed concrete solution from gravel, sand and cement in proportions 5:3:1;

1. Filled the prepared cavity with the resulting mixture.

In a good way, the foundation should be poured long before even dismantling the old bathtub, since it will take time to set. But this moment turned out to be ill-conceived for me, and therefore there was a break in my activities aimed at making the stove.

Furnace assembly

As the foundation hardened, I moved on to assembling the two halves of the bathtub into something more practical and functional:

1. Cut a sheet from prepared metal, which can completely cover the floor of the font;

1. I made a hole closer to the back wall of the future structure and welded a half-meter piece of prepared pipe to it;
2. I installed one of the halves of the tank on the foundation;

1. Then applied heat-resistant sealant to its edges using mounting gun, and placed the assembled sheet with part of the built-in chimney on top;

1. Further started making a hole for the chimney in the second half of a cast iron container. Here the work turned out to be more difficult than similar manipulations with steel sheets, so I will describe them in more detail:

• I applied markings in accordance with the cross-section of the chimney pipe around the drain. Of course, it needs to be marked first of all where it will pass, I just initially, for greater convenience, adjusted all the structural elements so that these points coincided;
• I drilled many holes along the intended contour;
• Carefully, again, slowly, I cut the remaining jumpers with a grinder;
• The edges of the resulting opening were carefully processed with a file, bringing it to the desired state;

1. I applied sealant around the perimeter of the sheet covering the already installed part of the stove, and, putting the second half of the bath on the pipe, covered the structure with it;
2. The top of the chimney was increased to a meter height;
3. Sides protruding along the perimeter, including a steel interlayer of the intermediate sheet, drilled with a drill a drill whose diameter is 10 mm;

1. Into the resulting holes threaded the corresponding bolts, and screwed nuts and washers onto them on top. Tightened each connection tightly;

1. For the lower combustion chamber picked up the grate so that it fits tightly between the walls, and there is still 150 mm left to the bottom. If you have problems with an object of a suitable size, then weld metal corners on the sides;

Perimeter and façade design

In the condition that the stove had after its assembly was completed, it gave off too much thermal energy environment, did not look aesthetically pleasing and was a somewhat shaky structure. So I did the following:

1. Mixed a solution of cement and sand, using a ratio of one to three. For this I used a drill in tandem with a special attachment in the form of a whisk;

1. Built brick walls behind and on the sides of the stove. Brick has low thermal conductivity, therefore, now large quantity heat will rise to the food being prepared;

1. For the façade, I used a grinder to cut out shapes to match the contours of the halves of the font metal sheets. Then:

• In the canvas intended for the lower combustion part, I cut out a small hole, just enough for the prepared firewood to pass through it freely, and installed the door;
• In the canvas intended for the upper cooking part, I cut out a kind of crescent, which covered only the edges of the chamber, and from the rest I made two doors opening in different directions;
• I installed both products using angles, a drill and bolts.

As an alternative, you can cover the front side up to the level of the cooking chamber with bricks. Only in this case it is necessary to install doors for the blower and firebox into the masonry. The upper compartment is then closed simply by a large steel flap with a handle.

Stage No. 4: finishing

Here I had two tasks:

• Insulate the stove structure even more;
• Decorate the building, making it an excellent addition to the country interior.

And I started:

1. Mixed a solution of clay and sand in a ratio of one to two;

You can also add some lime to the batch. This will reduce the risk of cracks appearing during the hardening of the finishing layer.

1. Covered the cooking compartment with steel mesh, the cell size of which is 20 mm, and fixed its edges to the brickwork using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Now the clay plaster applied on top will not slide down the smooth cast-iron surface, and when it dries, it will have sufficient strength;
2. By this time, the kneaded mixture had reached the desired consistency, and using a spatula applied the first finishing coat, which did not iron;

1. After the clay has set, already done finishing , then moistened the spatula and carefully leveled the created coating. In total, my cladding was approximately 70 mm thick;
2. After hardening whitewashed his fur coat, adding similarity appearance structures with antique stoves.

Also, in the future, I also want to cover the brickwork with ceramic tiles, but in order to save money, I don’t want to specifically purchase expensive materials for this. Therefore, I’m waiting for the time to renovate the bathroom at the dacha to use the ceramics removed from its walls.

Benefits received

It turned out to be quite possible to make a stove from a cast-iron bathtub with your own hands, but not so easy. Here and excavation, and the construction of brickwork, and cutting of cast iron, and welding, and even finishing. Not a weak set of tasks. But as a result I:

• Gave a “second life” old things that have already served their purpose. There is always some joy in this of a small victory over time itself, which mercilessly treats everything in our world;

• Diluted country house interior attractive looking design. Of course, it’s still worth covering it with tiles, but even now the created structure fits very organically into the design of my suburban area;
• Very good saved on materials used. Having a working solid fuel stove on your household is much more profitable than getting pennies for accepting ferrous metal for a cast-iron bathtub. And for the most part, I found everything else that I needed to realize my plan;
• Received possibility to use solid fuel for cooking, saving gas and electricity, the availability of which in some suburban areas can be a big problem;
• I was finally able to cook the dishes, requiring special conditions of a real Russian stove, which the erected structure now provided me with;

• I began to see friends on the threshold of my dacha much more often who want to try something delicious in the heat of the day. In addition, they never come empty-handed; the end result is a wonderful feast.

Alternative modifications

In fact, these are not even modifications, but, on the contrary, somewhat stripped-down options, which, nevertheless, can also be very useful in the household. Moreover, both of them can be realized from one vessel:

1. For example, how to make a bath with a cast iron grill stove? After all, fried meat cooked on open fire– this is simply amazing. For this it will be enough:

• Take the half of the bathtub that is without a hole and attach another pair of legs to the cut edge for stability of the structure;
• Place a suitable sized grill on top. It is not at all necessary to fix it “tightly”; on the contrary, the removable version is more convenient to use and maintain;
• That’s it, through the open façade you add firewood or remove coals, put pork, lamb or chicken on top, and heat-intensive cast iron helps create the temperature necessary for frying;

1. You can also make an effective stove for a bathhouse from a cast iron container:

• Lay the bathtub upside down so that its main part is in the steam room on a pre-prepared concrete base, and the cut goes into the next room;
• Inside, install a grate with the help of corners, and cover the facade with a metal sheet equipped with doors for the firebox and ash pan;
• Install a chimney pipe with exit outside the bathhouse area. You can first weld a small horizontal pipe into the facade, and then use an elbow to bring the chimney vertically to the roof;
• In the steam room, build a brick wall around a cast iron container at a distance of 10 cm and as high as the tank itself;

• Fill the gap between the bricks and the bathtub with stones, which, when heated, will provide the necessary heat.

Conclusion

Don’t rush to throw away or sell for scrap your old cast iron bathtub, because you can use it to make a wonderful garden stove that will repeatedly delight you with very tasty and healthy dishes, will decorate the area and become another reason for your friends to come visit you. Plus you can do most of the work with my own hands, assistance will only be needed when transporting and installing the upper part of the structure.

The video in this article will offer you a number of additional materials, which are directly related to the information presented. If you have questions on the topic, please ask them in the comments.

August 20, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

There comes a time when plumbing fixtures, due to their type or malfunction, become unsuitable for use. But, having replaced it with a new one, you should not rush to throw it away. Summer residents and home owners can easily make a garden stove from a cast iron bathtub, which in terms of strength and service life will not be inferior to factory models.

Advantages of using cast iron

This type of metal is rightfully considered one of the best stove materials. Its main advantages include:

1. Environmental safety. When heated, it does not emit harmful substances.
2. Resistance to temperature changes. An outdoor stove made of brick may begin to crumble after just a few years.
3. High thermal conductivity. A fireplace made of cast iron will warm up a room much faster than one built from other materials.
4. Durability. Cast iron is the leader among metals in terms of strength. Even steel stoves are less reliable.
5. Ease of use.
6. Fire safety.

The disadvantages of cast iron that are worth paying attention to are brittleness and susceptibility to corrosion. In the first case, unnecessary mechanical influences should be avoided; in the second, the surface should be treated with special solutions.

A homemade cast iron structure will not turn out very beautiful, so it is recommended to cover it with brick or stone.

Preparation of materials and tools

To create such a miracle stove from a bathtub, you need to prepare:

• angle grinder (grinder);
• 2–3 circles on metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm and a diameter of 12.5 cm;
• electric drill;
• metal drills with a diameter of 9, 11 mm;
• grinding wheels;
• files;
• hammer;
• level;
• construction gun (for applying sealant);
• plumb line;
• putty knife;
• Master OK.

Materials you will need:

• iron or steel sheet 5 mm;
• fireproof red brick;
• grate;
• sealant;
• clay;
• sand;
• metal corner;
• bolts with nuts, washers;
• chimney pipe with a diameter of 12 cm.

Photo: the material is prepared, all that remains is to choose the purpose of the oven and get to work

When all the materials and tools have been collected, you can start cutting the container. For convenience, you can turn it upside down or lay it on its side.

Users often search:

You need to handle the grinder carefully so as not to damage the surface.

Before you start sawing the bathtub, there are several nuances to consider:

1. Marking will make cutting the product easier.
2. The first layer of enamel is removed strictly along the drawn line. This will help prevent chipping along the edges.
3. The next step is to cut the cast iron. Do this gradually, in small pieces of about 10 cm, so as not to overheat the grinder.
4. When the bathtub has already been cut in half, supports are placed under each part. They will prevent parts from falling and damaging the tool or material.

According to experienced builders, grinder It's better to work at an angle. This way the enamel will not begin to peel off and all cuts will be smooth without burrs.

If you use a high-quality grinder, processing cast iron will take no more than 1 hour.

For a barbecue you will need two halves of the bath: one part will serve as a fuel loading chamber, the other is necessary for cooking. For a sauna stove or fireplace, one half will be enough.

Step-by-step creation of a stove from a bathtub

Without construction experience, it is worth consulting with a specialist about all the intricacies of masonry and installation of parts, and it is better to carry out the work under the supervision of a foreman. This way the product will be of high quality and standard. fire safety will be respected.

As for the construction of the foundation, its type depends on the total weight of the furnace:

• For structures over 700 kg, a monolithic or strip base a depth of 50 cm. Formwork is constructed around the perimeter of the pit and covered with a layer of crushed stone or broken brick. It gets compacted. Filled with concrete.
• For furnaces small sizes A brick foundation will suffice. It is recommended to purchase cement grade no lower than M300. The bricks are placed edgewise and fastened together with mortar.

Now let's consider detailed instructions for the manufacture of each of the furnaces for different purposes.

For the bath

To create in the steam room the necessary conditions, the design must meet the following requirements:

• have high thermal power;
• regulate convection currents;
• produce sufficient steam.

The procedure for constructing a sauna stove:

It is important to note that the foundation must have a protrusion towards the borders of the furnace of at least 50 cm, and 1–1.5 m of free space must be left in front of the firebox.

An interesting idea to make a sauna stove from both halves of the bathtub. The second part will be needed as an extension for heating water, or you can use it to build a Russian heater.

For cooking

On summer cottage You can’t do without a barbecue or grill. And the opportunity to bake delicious bread, fry meat on fresh air forcing owners to install small outdoor stoves on their property.

Here is a description of how to build a barbecue step by step from a bathtub.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Some craftsmen leave the barbecue in this condition, but in order for your stove to look beautiful, you should still do exterior finishing.

There are several options:

1. Whitewashing the clay part.
2. Whole masonry ceramic tiles or pieces of it.
3. Surface finishing with natural stone, pre-cut into pieces 10 mm thick.

The materials are attached to the oven with heat-resistant adhesives.

A good solution is to install a chimney to the stove through the bathtub drain hole, widening it in advance, and only then weld it to a steel sheet.

For heating

At the dacha it is easy to build a fireplace from half a bathtub. He can be:

• Built into the wall. Suitable if the house has brick walls. Significantly saves free space.
• Leaned (half open). The firebox is located at a considerable distance from the wall. This fireplace does not require a separate foundation; it is mounted directly into the floor. It has good traction and a built-in ash pan.

The advantage of using a cast iron bath for the combustion part is that the fireplace is shaped like an arch and eliminates complex brickwork. The hole for the chimney pipe is made at the top of the bathtub. External part decorated with a fireplace portal.

When building a semi-open fireplace, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

1. Poured under the base cement mortar up to 15 mm thick.
2. A metal mesh is laid on top.
3. A layer of waterproofing is applied.
4. Insulation such as asbestos cardboard is laid.
5. A pedestal for the firebox is being built. Brick or aerated concrete will do. The binder mixture is cement mortar or heat-resistant glue.
6. The structure is plastered. You can decorate it with stone or ceramic tiles.
7. A gap is left between the lining and the firebox for the convection heating system.
8. The chimney pipe is mounted in the hole made and discharged through the ceilings and roof. Often done in the shape of a sleeve.
9. The inside of the firebox and chimney are lined with heat-insulating, non-combustible material.
10. The lower part of the fireplace is being finished.
11. The product is closed on the side and top with a frame made of aluminum corners connected with self-tapping screws.
12. The frame is covered with plasterboard.
13. Holes are made in the cladding for air ventilation.

When installing a chimney, it is important to take into account that with a pipe height of up to 5 m, the deflection angle is 45 0, over 5 m - no more than 20 0.

For waste disposal

An unusual solution to build a waste incinerator from an old bathtub.

The principle of its construction is similar to a street barbecue.

Layout of the stove on a brick base

An alternative is to remodel an old heater by removing all parts except the grate and body. Part of the cast iron is welded to the base from the inside to strengthen the structure.

You can load waste into this fire bin directly from the top. When burning, the stove should be covered with another part of the bath so that the smoke does not disperse throughout the entire area.

So you shouldn’t rush to get rid of things that are out of order or out of shape. IN in capable hands even an old bathtub will get a second life and become a functional stove that will last for many years.

Making a universal stove from a cast-iron bathtub, and even with your own hands, is much cheaper than buying a ready-made one.

Moreover, a stove made from a cast iron bathtub will become not only an indispensable thing for suburban area, but also a real source of pride. For what purposes is such a device suitable?

For preparing a variety of food, from fragrant homemade bread to any main course.

Thanks to its material, such a stove will retain heat perfectly. As practice shows, there are old cast-iron bathtubs in almost any summer cottage.

It would be a shame to throw them away, so most often they are used for some technical purposes, for example, as watering tanks.

We offer you step by step instructions How to make an interesting stove for your garden yourself.

A stove based on a cast iron bath is not only an original, but also an extremely economical device.

Plus, its creation does not require any special materials, a lot of time, or special skills.

As they say, everything ingenious is simple. However, the result exceeds any expectations.

Instructions for making a stove from a cast iron bath

Be extremely careful, as cast iron is quite fragile - sudden, careless movements can make it unsuitable for further work.

Angular cutting is quite suitable for cutting. Sander(or as they also call her, Bulgarian).

Stock up on several cutting discs and time, you can’t rush here - this is the most important part of the work.

Then take one half and place it on top so that you get a structure that resembles a capsule with a cut.

For the next stage of DIY work, you will need a metal sheet, but one that is too thin will not work for our purposes.

Ideally, the metal thickness should be more than 5 mm.

The stove will use both halves of the vat, and the sheet is needed to separate the top from the bottom (i.e., the cooking compartment from the fuel area).

Thus, you should get two chambers - one for cooking, and the second for firewood.

Don't forget to make a hole in the sheet for the chimney. It is better to place it as close to the back wall as possible. It will run from the lower chamber through the entire oven.

To secure the sheet and the bath halves, it is best to use fasteners: clamp the edge of the sheet between the edges of both halves and put it on.

To prevent smoke from forming in the upper chamber, use oven sealant. We attach the chimney to a metal sheet by welding.

Before cooking, cast iron should be heated a little, for example, by heating firewood in the lower chamber - this will make the material easier to weld.

We cover the front part of the lower chamber with a metal sheet; first we need to make a large hole through which firewood will be placed.

Now you can make doors for both the firebox and the upper chamber in which food will be cooked.

An easy-to-make and at the same time functional stove for your summer cottage is ready. The only thing left to do is to decorate the structure so that it becomes a real decoration of the yard.

If you or someone you know has artistic abilities, then paint the stove, for example, with folk motifs.

It would not even occur to any neighbor or guest that such a device could be made from an old, unnecessary bathtub.

Making a stove for a bath

An old cast-iron bathtub can make not only an excellent kitchen stove, but also a bath stove. Why spend extra money on a device that you can make yourself?

First of all, it is worth noting that the construction of a bathhouse, as well as the installation of a stove in it, requires a certain knowledge of the matter, therefore, for safety reasons, it makes sense to seek advice from a professional stove maker.

Sauna stoves have a number of requirements.

So, all such units must have:

• a sufficient amount of thermal power, as well as a wide range for its regulation;
• steam generator and heat accumulator for changing the mode of moisture and heat;
• regulation of the convention;
• such surfaces whose temperature will not exceed 150°C.

A simple stove for a two-tier bath that fully meets the listed requirements can be built from an old cast-iron bathtub.

The lower tier of a sauna stove is half of a cast-iron bathtub, laid with the convex part up and the cut towards the wall. The outside of the entire structure is covered with bricks.

Steam generation is achieved using 8-10 buckets of stone covering one part of it. Heat is accumulated in the upper chamber (following the example of Kuznetsov furnaces).

The principle of operation is quite simple: gas passes through the bath, heats the stones, reaches the bread chamber located on the opposite side, then the gas flow is directed down and up (does a “dive”), and then exits the pipe.

There is a damper at the bottom to prevent smoke from escaping.

A sauna stove made from an old cast-iron bathtub is an unusual design.

Most often, ready-made devices are purchased to heat a room, but if you want to experiment, you can make such a unit yourself.

Advantages of cast iron stoves

Cast iron is considered one of the the best materials, and factory-made stoves made from it are not cheap.

First of all, it gained popularity due to its durability, ease of use and resistance to high temperatures.

If we compare a cast iron unit with a brick one, the first one has better thermal conductivity. Since the bathhouse does not maintain a high temperature all the time, the material must be insensitive to changes.

In winter, most often, the bathhouse at the dacha is not heated, as a result of which the brick may begin to crumble, but cast iron is not afraid of such problems. In terms of room heating speed, cast iron is definitely the leader.

From a fire safety point of view, a brick oven does not pose a threat only if it is new. Cracks are dangerous because sparks can break through them.

For aesthetic purposes, it would still be better to line a homemade stove with bricks, but if individual blocks are damaged, they can be easily replaced.

The main competitor of cast iron is steel. Despite the fact that steel stoves do not lag behind cast iron stoves in terms of heating speed and strength, the former have a significantly shorter service life.

Another one of them weakness- susceptibility to corrosion. Cast iron has the same problem, but to a much lesser extent.

If you decide to make a bath unit from an old bathtub, the result will be an easy-to-use device that will perform its functions perfectly and will last for many years.

Also, a cast iron bathtub can be converted into an original one. country fireplace. This design is especially suitable for those who are just doing brickwork at home.

In this case, the fireplace is “recessed” into the wall, which allows for maximum use of the space.

Just recently, I came across the brilliant idea of ​​creating a garden stove from an old bathtub. The idea is so simple that any man can implement it. There are a lot of benefits from such a device, because it can be used as a stove, outdoor fireplace, barbecue and so on.

In order not to bore the reader, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the process of creating this country masterpiece.

For the stove you will need:
- old bath;
- a pipe, it will also be a chimney;
- bricks, maybe old and unnecessary;
- sheet of metal with a thickness of 5 mm;
- grinder or any other device for cutting metal.

The first stage is the most difficult, since the bathtub will need to be cut crosswise into two absolutely equal parts. In one of the parts, a hole should be made to match the diameter of the pipe. We make exactly the same hole in the sheet of metal that we managed to find. When the most difficult stage is left behind, you can proceed directly to assembling the structure.

1. We install one half of the old bathtub, in which there is no hole, as usual. Place a sheet of metal on top of this half. Attention! The hole should be in the area of ​​the far wall. Now on the sheet, we place the second half of the bath upside down, that is, so that the bottom looks into the sky.

2. Our miracle oven is almost ready and all that remains is to add reliability to the entire structure. The edges of the stove bath must be tightly fastened. Bolts are suitable for this, preferably large ones. It is, of course, better to drill holes for the bolts in advance. As a result, it should turn out that the metal sheet will be tightly sandwiched between the two halves of the bath.

3. It's time to build a chimney. We insert a pipe into the hole in the upper half and lower it a couple of centimeters below the metal sheet. If the holes for the pipe are larger in diameter, then you will have to be smart in order to secure the chimney. A thrifty owner who does everything conscientiously will certainly resort to welding and do it right. For greater reliability, welding seams are sealed with sealant.

4. Now the garden stove from the bathtub is ready, the final touch remains - creating a pedestal. We make a stand for the stove from bricks, stones and other materials that you have on your site. You have construction waste that you still can’t take out, right? So turn on your imagination a little, because your brainchild deserves a comfortable installation location.

That's the whole trick. Although it can be improved a little. For example, to make the firebox easier to clean from ash, you can put a grate on the bottom. But you can achieve good retention and transfer of heat, just like in a real oven, using a stone sheet that is laid directly on top of a metal sheet.

Now you can cook whatever your heart desires in this oven, from ordinary porridge to fragrant bread.

By the way, it is perfect for making jam and other summer preparations, which are so nice to take out from the pantry or cellar on a cold winter evening.