Homemade garage crane. A device for removing the engine with your own hands - Homemade crane for a car engine Types of lifting mechanisms

Dear visitors of the site “”, from the material presented you will learn how to independently assemble a garage hydraulic goose crane, look at the drawings, step by step photos assembly, as well as a video testing a homemade crane for engine dismantling. Every motorist in his experience of operating a car has probably encountered engine breakdowns, and often with its replacement or major repairs, but to remove it from its seat you will need a reliable winch or crane. Purchasing special equipment will cost at least 10 K, and not everyone has the opportunity to install a winch on the garage ceiling, because garage floors are quite weak.

It is quite possible to make a goose-type crane with a hydraulic boom lifting system yourself, for which you will need 7 meters of 80x80 mm profile and 3 mm wall thickness. A pair of pipes 89, 700 mm and 76-900 mm. five-tonner 5t, plates 8 mm thick 4 pcs. Author in in this case I bought only 2 regular wheels, 2 swivel wheels, 1 m M-14 studs During testing homemade faucet It easily lifts 250-300 kg, it also transported concrete curbs with a total weight of 500 kg, everything is fine.

Device and principle of operation homemade hydraulic crane “Goose” is essentially quite simple, and the name speaks for itself) It consists of a support (collapsible) with wheels for moving around the garage and rolling under the car, a vertical stand with a jack and the retractable boom itself with a chain and hook .

The lifting height of the short boom at the bottom is 90 cm at the top. Long boom, bottom 80 cm, and at the top 1800 mm and with the jack rod unscrewed, the bottom is 1400 mm and the top is 2250 mm.

So, let's look at what exactly is needed to assemble a garage crane?

Materials

1. professional pipe 80x80, 7 m long
2. pipe 89 mm x 700 mm 2 pcs.
3. pipe 76 length 900 mm
4. wheels 6 pcs, 2 swivel, 2 regular and 2 with brake
5. metal plates 8 mm 4 pcs
6. jack 5 t
7. chain and hook, M-14 pin, length 1000 mm

Tools

1. welding inverter
2. Angle grinder (grinder)
3. drill
4. set of wrenches

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a hydraulic goose crane.

First, you should familiarize yourself with the drawings and diagrams, and then move on to assembly.

The drawing on a notebook sheet was compiled by the author of the crane presented below.
First, the butt part of the support is made; it will also be collapsible.

A vertical post with a spacer is welded in the lower support plane.

Installation and fastening of the jack.




Arrow at full reach.
Experiment in the garage, lifting the scooter)
Moped weight 120 kg
It’s quite possible to make such a faucet yourself with minimal costs. Simple, inexpensive and compact, because the crane is collapsible.
The author also made a short video of the tests.

Thank you for your attention!

Do you have to remove engines from cars or transport heavy items? Then it is simply vital for you to have such a thing as a small tap! And this is not a thing, such taps exist and you can make them with your own hands! We will analyze the design of one of them in this article. With the help of such a crane you can easily and simply remove the engine from the car and place it on a table for overhaul. Agree, it sounds tempting!

Making such a faucet is not difficult, it is even very simple. The entire structure is welded from steel square pipes. As for the working body, it is used as it. That is, you don’t need any electricity or anything like that; we lift weights by simply working the lever on the jack. Concerning technical characteristics, then in general the jack is capable of lifting weights up to 4 tons, but at the same time we take into account that we lift weights through the boom, that is, to a greater height. The experiment showed that such a crane can lift a motorcycle with a sidecar that weighs more than 300 kg. Under such a load, the structure was slightly deformed, but then the author strengthened it and now 300 kg is not the limit for the crane, and it doesn’t need more! By the way, you can use a regular jack; a hydraulic one is not necessary. Let's take a closer look at how to make such a faucet!

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- square steel pipes;
- ;
- Sheet steel;
- nuts, bolts, etc.;
- dye;
- hook and rope;
- wheels.

List of tools:
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- drill.

Faucet manufacturing process:

Step one. Frame
The frame is welded from steel pipes square section. Of course, the stand and base should be as strong as possible. To be able to change the angle of the boom, we drill holes in the post and boom and weld the pipes into their places as bushings. This design creates reliable connection. All this is connected by a steel rod or bolt and nut. The base is a cross. We strengthen the stand with pipe sections.

We screw wheels to the base so that the crane can be transported with a load. These wheels are installed on garbage bins(but better not steal).

Step two. Jack
To install the jack, you need to prepare stops on the boom and on the stand. The stops must be movable, since the angle of the jack will change during operation of the crane. How the jack is installed, look at the photo. Also, now you have noticed that the author has slightly altered the base, now it has become stronger.

Step three. Arrow
Our boom is retractable; it consists of a piece of pipe of smaller diameter with a number of holes. We extend the boom to the required distance and fix it with a bolt and nut. We attach a cable and a powerful hook to the end of the arrow.

After painting, the crane is ready for testing. The author can easily lift a motorcycle weighing 318 kg. Finally, the author strengthened the stand and boom a little more. So now the strength of the crane should be sufficient to lift a load weighing 400-500 kg. That's it, the project is finished, I hope you liked it. Good luck and creative inspiration if you decide to repeat it. Don't forget to share your work and

For repair work for the car engine, a lifting device was needed, a craftsman from Novosibirsk decided to make a homemade crane with his own hands.

As planned, the crane should be collapsible so that it does not take up much space in the garage. Lifting will be carried out using a hydraulic jack.

The photo shows the homemade design.

The base is welded from a 60 mm channel and a 50 mm square pipe; additional trim is used to strengthen the structure.

The channel is welded at an angle at which the vertical column tilts back.

Vertical stand and boom made of 50 mm square pipe.

The legs and reach of the boom are made from 40mm square tube.
I drilled holes for the vertical stand, legs, and arrows for outreach. I welded the ear under the jack and figured out how the jack would fit on a piece of some kind of metal structure. The boom has a 30mm corner reinforcement.

Shoulder - 1/5, approximately 110 cm of the boom and 22 cm of the stop from the axis of the vertical post.

In the photo there is a rise of 130 cm to 210 cm. The boom can be moved plus depending on the load capacity. You can also unscrew the screw from the rod on the jack. The jack is designed for 3000 kg, so the weight on the boom is maximum 600 kg (arm 3000/5).

During testing, the vertical console began to bend (between the lower channels and the lower stop of the jack). Motor + gearbox, 250-260 kg. I had to strengthen it and weld 5 mm cut plates onto the 50 pipe.

A homemade crane is easy to use, 25 minutes and the motor is already on the cushions in the car.

sam-stroitel.com

Do-it-yourself hydraulic crane for engine removal: instructions and drawings

For full convenience of using your own garage, sometimes you need equipment for lifting heavy parts of the car. The best option The solution to this problem is a hydraulic crane. The unique structure allows you to rearrange small loads with little effort from the mechanic or car owner.

Design features and operating principle

The hydraulic valve is made from durable metal and is characterized by a stable design. The main principle of the mechanism structure: stable support with low dead weight. This helps you lift loads of up to three tons with ease, but a maximum of two meters above the ground.

Garage crane is used for:

• removing the engine;
• lifting beams, bridges;
• movement of dimensional units.

The crane contains a hydraulic drive and operates through a system of communicating vessels. The method allows you to make the rise smooth.

Stationary

The stationary crane is installed in large car repair shops and is securely attached to a monolithic foundation. The mechanism has a boom with a rotating system and is equipped with a manual drive. Allows you to work on only one vehicle at a time.

An integral advantage of a stationary crane is its large lifting capacity. It is provided by a monolithic support, which creates rigidity of the system.

Portable

The hydraulic rolling crane has wheels on its base. The support is provided by the lower metal beams, which results in loss of load capacity readings. It is better to choose a faucet with a massive triangular support. By design they are divided:

• on cast solid supports with limited boom reach, but good load capacity;
• telescopic or folding - they have an increased boom reach, but reduce the load capacity by several times.

Important! Folding units need to strictly follow the instructions for lifting the permitted load. The arrow cannot withstand and, if the permitted standards are not observed, it breaks off.

Main types of equipment

The average garage has a reduced square footage and requires careful selection of equipment. Before installation, it is recommended to carefully study the need for individual mechanisms, their types, pros and cons. A hydraulic valve is determined by two criteria.

By type of drive

There are also two subtypes of hydraulic drive:

• automated design with hydraulic cylinders;
• combined, with hydraulic cylinders and manual winches.

A significant drawback of the first is oil cylinders. They need frequent regular replacement, so this design is considered extremely unprofitable for constant use. The combined system will last longer. However, some of the work with winches will have to be taken on by mechanics.

According to the design of the support

Hydraulic cranes are divided into mobile and stationary, they can be folding and prefabricated cast (goose). For ordinary garages, it is more rational to choose a mobile structure with folding parts.

What properties should a garage lift have?

There are two main requirements: stability and load capacity. Secondary requirements are the ability to move, rotating support, low support beams, folding mechanism. The properties required by the lift are calculated solely from the individual characteristics of the room.

DIY crane assembly technology

If you have certain skills, assembling the mechanism yourself will not be difficult. To do this, it is important to draw up a preliminary design drawing, choose materials wisely and strictly follow the assembly instructions.

Schemes and drawings

Below are sample drawings of a hydraulic crane. Accurate calculations you need to do it yourself, based on the parameters of a particular garage.

Material selection

To build a garage lift yourself, it is recommended to first purchase all the required materials:

1. 3 steel corners with parameters 7.5x7.5x0.8 centimeters.
2. “Worm” gearbox, the minimum load capacity of which starts from 300 kilograms, and the additional indicator is 60 kilograms.
3. A strong steel plate one centimeter thick. If you have an old metal cutting machine, you can take it from it; you won’t need outside help for this.
4. About 10 matching bolts.
5. 2 dense metal chains with a diameter of two to three centimeters. The crane is designed to work with very heavy materials - you should carefully monitor the quality of the metal.
6. Hook.
7. Steel cable with a diameter of 5 millimeters.
8. 2 keys with different parameters in the shape of an asterisk.

Step-by-step construction instructions

The process of assembling and installing a homemade garage crane does not look complicated:

• steel corners must be installed on parallel walls;
• fasten the steel plate to them using M8 bolts;
• fix the “worm” gearbox on the plate;
• install a larger key on the drive shaft;
• drill a hole in a pre-designated place, insert a chain into it and close it into a ring;
• fix a smaller key on the output shaft of the gearbox;
• drill 2 more holes in the plate;
• pass the second chain through the holes, where one end is on a small key, and a hook is installed on the second.

Self-installation of the crane has a number of important advantages. For example, the cost of a homemade mechanism is almost two times lower than a purchased one.

garazhyk.ru

How to remove the engine from a car in the garage with your own hands?

Basic maintenance of the motor is possible without dismantling it. Replacement of spark plugs, maintenance of intake and exhaust manifolds, and even replacement of the timing belt (chain) is carried out directly in the engine compartment of the car. However, work with valves, crankshaft, piston group, etc. is carried out only with the engine removed. Not to mention the overhaul procedure.

From our article you will learn how to remove the engine from a car in the garage, how you can remove the engine yourself and how to do it correctly.

The material was prepared by the site Auto-science.ru - whose specialists will help you check the mileage of your car efficiently and without errors.

How to remove the engine from a car in the garage without resorting to the help of a car service?

In fact, this is not such a complicated procedure as it might seem at first glance. The main task is to select tools for removing the motor.

Important! The engine weighs several hundred kilograms. Falling it can not only cause property damage, but also cause serious injury.

Before lifting the engine from the engine compartment, it is necessary to carry out the following procedures:

1. Drain all technical fluids: oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid.
2. Free the cooling system from antifreeze.
3. Drain the gearbox (except when you remove the engine without removing the gearbox).
4. Disconnect all hoses and pipes of the fuel, brake, lubrication and cooling systems.
5. If possible, remove attachments: air conditioning compressor, generator, etc.
6. Disconnect electrical cables, engine control unit, injector control cables, high-voltage ignition coil wires.
7. Remove the connectors from all motor sensors. It is recommended to make a list (“based on” the maintenance and repair instructions), this will help you not to miss a hidden connector.
8. In most cases, you will need to remove the hood cover.

If you plan to remove the engine without the transmission, you need to unscrew all the tightening bolts and make sure that after removal the gearbox will not fall under the car. That is, you need to take care of temporarily securing the unit.

How to remove the engine from a car?

At home, there is usually no professional lifting equipment, so you will have to rent it or make it yourself.

Do-it-yourself goose for removing the engine

This is a simple mechanism that resembles a gooseneck. It makes it possible to move the engine away from the engine compartment. It may have a rotating design that allows you to remove the engine without moving the machine.

The heavy internal combustion engine is simply transferred to a workbench located next to the car. In fact, it is a universal garage crane. The rack rests on long “legs” located under the engine compartment to prevent it from tipping over. A cable and a winch are used for lifting.

The gander is used both in garage conditions and in small services.

DIY engine removal lift

As a rule, this is a rolling crane, the lower part of which is placed under the front bumper. A smooth platform is required; on uneven ground, removing the engine using such a device is problematic. The lift operates using hydraulics or a tensioning mechanism like a winch. The device is simple: a stand with rolling supports, and a movable boom on which the motor is suspended. You can make a lift with your own hands from a channel or a square professional. pipes.

If there are strong wheels on supporting legs, you can quickly roll out the lift with the motor and move it to the repair area.

Do-it-yourself winch for removing the engine

Applicable if the car is being repaired in a solid stone garage. The most inexpensive tool that can be used to remove an engine. A chain or cable is used to pull it out.

There are two design options:

• A transmission mechanism with a drum that is suspended from the ceiling.
• The winch is fixed to the floor, and a pulley is fixed under the ceiling.

Features of removing various motor designs

Longitudinal arrangement. As a rule, such internal combustion engines are removed without a gearbox, although exceptions are possible. The radiator needs to be removed.

Transverse arrangement. The motors are compact and easy to lift vertically. The gearbox remains on the engine.

Hybrid systems and electric vehicles. Engines internal combustion in such machines they take up little space or are absent altogether. Electric motors can be built into the wheel drive or integrated into the transmission. In view of small size their dismantling is not difficult.

All types of internal combustion engines are installed on supports. In frame structures, the attachment points are located on the frame; in cars with a monocoque body, there is usually a subframe.

block-mitsubishi.ru

how to lift the engine out of a car with your own hands

You really can't do it with your hands.

manual winch

head removed, hinge, 2 bolts, rags for wings, 2-3 meter thick pipe, 2 lift, 1 coordinate, do not put legs

You can take everything apart under the hood. I've already done this.

the cable, the crowbar, and two people can pull it out entirely. if there is one then for parts

There are special attachments sold in auto parts stores, where you can turn the handle by hand or something like that…. Well, personally, how long ago was the engine removed from a Muscovite - they drove it into the garage, the chain to the engine, then the chain was thrown over the crossbar, and then this chain was attached to the second car

depending on what car. on a six without a head, one was pulled out and installed. hard, but tolerable

at least three of us are required or a winch behind the beam

If a car has up to 2 liters, remove everything from the engine, the block will become much lighter. The engine jack is lifted, removed from the cushions and pulled out.

If it’s a Jeep/SUV, then pull the waist, or take everything off again and take two or three people out.

If it’s a BelAZ, then it’s easier to squeeze it out without special ones. equipment

I knew one guy - one of them pulled out pennies from the collection.

When the time comes to overhaul the engine, there is no way to do without overhauling its internal parts. To do this, you have to remove it and take it to a mechanic, who can replace all the old worn parts with new ones. But it is at this stage that most drivers make their mistakes when they try alone to quickly remove the engine, repair it and quickly drive their favorite car.

First of all, you need to understand that it is impossible to remove the power unit alone, otherwise you can not only hopelessly damage the engine crankcase, but also damage your limbs. How many cases have there been when drivers, in great haste, tried to remove the engine themselves!

Then we drive the car to the garage, where there is a pit and reinforced concrete floors, which allow us to more confidently carry out all these necessary repairs.

You are only allowed to disconnect everything yourself electrical cables, fuel wires and belts from the pulleys, not forgetting to drain all the water from the radiator and the oil from the engine crankcase. These are all elementary but necessary operations that every self-respecting driver should know. Therefore, before removing the engine, you need to prepare all useful containers where all liquids from the engine will be drained, not forgetting to prepare soft rags along the way, with which you will have to collect all the spilled liquid (you can be sure that there will definitely be some).

It is advisable if the engine also has liquid air filter(they are installed on GAS), remove it and pour out the old oil. This will reduce the weight of the engine.

Then we rent a special device - a jack-trolley and place it under the engine. With its help, we slightly lift the engine from below in order to be able to loosen the bolts on the rubber pads on which, in fact, the engine hangs. After the last nuts are unscrewed, the engine is then smoothly and gradually released to the bottom. This first option is suitable when an electric lift is available and the car can be raised completely.

But in widespread cases, when you don’t have a hoist or floor lift at hand, but you really want to go, you can get by with primitive devices. You need to prepare a metal cable and pipe. Then we wrap the cable around the engine, lift the engine, loosen the nuts on the mounts and very carefully lower the engine to the bottom of the pit. It is better to do this dangerous work with three people, because two will hold the iron pipe, and the third will loosen the nuts on the engine shock-absorbing mounts.

Needless to say, before removing the engine from the car, the wheels should be firmly fixed in wooden blocks in order to completely eliminate even the slightest movement of the car chassis?

Install the engine in reverse order.

A winch or assistants to help.

Lower into the pit, then winch up

the simplest and cheapest option is a manual hoist
You can buy it for 3-4 rubles!
http://www.mp-u.ru/shop/ruchnaya_tal

My husband also suffered and finally bought a hoist. Perhaps you should buy or maybe repair the old one. There is also spare parts for the hoist.

touch.otvet.mail.ru

Injector Remover - DIY Removal Device, Types: Hydraulic, Universal, Inertial and Homemade, Instructions for Removal and Replacement

We are looking for two authors for our site who are VERY well versed in the structure of modern cars.
Contact by mail

During the operation of the car, it becomes necessary to remove the injectors for replacement or diagnostics. At this moment, the car owner may face trouble in the form of a stuck injector. The reasons for this may be either engine overheating or simply oxidation of the contact point caused by exposure to aggressive external environment. Excessive force will damage the injector. Very often it moves slightly and then jams, making it impossible to move in any direction. To solve problems, a special puller comes to the rescue, designed to remove stuck injectors.

Complete set of branded vibration injector remover

A factory-made inertial puller kit may include:

• an extractor unit that can withstand operation at various frequencies and amplitudes;
• vibration rod locking rod designed for fixation;
• stepped thrust rings, usually one or two;
• a bearing ring that improves sliding and smooth pulling out of the nozzle;
• power nut made of high-strength steel to prevent rapid thread wear;
• a package of spring washers that eliminates rigid fixation that can cause damage to the head and injectors;
• a protective ring that increases the safety of working with the puller.

To pull out the nozzle, it must be subjected to vibration. The puller does not have the ability to create it on its own, so when dismantling the injectors, it is necessary to connect a Vibropac vibrator, often used to remove stuck spark plugs.

In some cars, for example, Mercedes Vito, Renault Master, Toyota Hiace, the use of an inertial puller is difficult. This is due to the lack of space to accommodate it. In this case, a hydraulic injector puller comes to the rescue, capable of dismantling in the most inaccessible places.

When dismantling fuel injectors with this device, the connection of a hydraulic hose is required, therefore, in the absence of equipment that provides pressure, purchasing a puller is not advisable. To carry out the operation, it is recommended to contact a service center.

Homemade dismantling methods

When performing dismantling yourself, it is important to remember the risk of damage to the cylinder head. If excessive force is applied, part of the seat may come off along with the nozzle. You cannot do without expensive repairs after this, so it is forbidden to gouge out the nozzle using improvised means, for example, a hammer drill or a jackhammer.

A self-made injector puller allows you to remove the injector without using a Vibropac vibrator. In this case, the chance of damaging the cylinder head and the duration of extraction increase. The service life of a homemade device is short, so broken threads during dismantling are not uncommon.

Instructions for removing stuck injectors

To dismantle the injectors using a proprietary puller, it is recommended to follow the following sequence:

1. Remove all contamination by blowing with compressed air;
2. Pour penetrating lubricant, for example WD-40, into the gap between the nozzle and the seat;
3. Place an inertial puller over the stuck injector;
4. The return fuel drain fitting must pass through the positioning slot;
5. Using a torque wrench, screw the spindle onto the threaded part of the injector. Must be tightened to the nominal torque specified in technical description car. Most cars have a force of 20 Newtons per meter;
6. Place the washer with the machined side down;
7. Place the second washer on top. Its spherical side should point down. To improve smooth dismantling and extend service life, it is recommended to lubricate the device with oil;
8. Put on the package of spring washers. comes complete with a branded injector puller;
9. Tighten the nut by hand. When the force becomes insufficient, you will need a 36mm wrench. Tighten until a slight force appears.

Further work involves the use of a Vibropac vibrator. In its absence, craftsmen recommend tapping with a hammer. This method will work if the nozzle is slightly stuck. In this case, the risk of damaging the cylinder head cover is extremely high, therefore this method It is not advisable to use it. If you have Vibropac, further instructions for action are given below:

1. Remove the spark plug removal tool;
2. Shut off the air supply as much as possible;
3. Place on the impact pin;
4. Mark the wrench on the nut;
5. Press the Vibropak pedal;
6. At a certain moment, under the influence of vibration, the nut begins to tighten. This means that the removal of the injectors is successful. In this case, you should not apply excessive force to the key;
7. The nut must be tightened in combination with the action of vibration;
8. At a certain point the nozzle will release. It is necessary to remove the key and remove it along with the puller.

A special feature of working with a self-made puller is preliminary long-term soaking with a penetrating lubricant or corrosion inhibitor. If there is insufficient preliminary preparation, there is a risk of damaging the injector threads as soon as the key makes the first turn. After this, its removal becomes much more difficult.

Using a puller saves time, since there is no need to dismantle the cylinder head cover. Accuracy in work will allow you to keep the seat intact. Just clean it and you can install a new nozzle.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

swapmotor.ru

Equipment for removing the engine from a car

Removing the engine from a car is done in case of replacement and repair of car engine parts. Before removing the engine, it is necessary to move the machine to an overpass or inspection pit.

Lifting of the device is usually done using talc or another lifting device, such as a motor support. Since most engines are designed in conjunction with a gearbox and clutch, it is more convenient to remove the entire unit. The result of the technical condition allows you to determine the need to remove the engine from the car. In case of serious technical problems with the car, various repair equipment will be needed one way or another.

The procedure for removing the engine from the car

• We remove the hood; if the power unit is removed downwards, the hood does not need to be removed;
• Drain the antifreeze;
• Drain the oil from the engine;
• Disconnect the wires of all electronics;
• Disconnect the brake booster hose;
• Disconnect the fuel supply hoses;
• Disconnect the throttle and choke wires;
• Disconnect the clutch hydraulic cylinder or cable drive;
• Disconnect the muffler intake pipes;
• We fix the motor on the lifting device;
• Unscrew the fasteners to the body;
• We remove the engine; after the work, assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Before disassembling the engine, it is necessary to carry out mandatory external cleaning on a stand specialized for these tasks. The stand allows you to rotate the motor at different angles for convenient washing and disassembly and assembly work. In order to ensure long-term operation of the car and the engine itself, all unusable parts are replaced with new ones.

Worn parts are marked for future replacement. The parts that most often become unusable are: pins and connecting rods with covers, pistons, liners, flywheel with clutch, crankshaft, cylinder block, bearing caps.

A DIY garage goose tap can be made from scrap materials available in the garage. This device is required when it is necessary to repair a car, for example, to remove the internal combustion engine from the car.

Necessary materials

The tap is made from a profile 7 m long. It is best to use a material whose wall thickness is 7 mm. The mechanism must be durable, so you should choose a profile with a cross section of 80x80 mm.

To make a lifting device, you will also need several pipes. Suitable products are 700 mm, the cross-section of which ranges from 76 to 99 mm.

To build a crane you will need a jack, you can take it from a VAZ. It is best to use a device that is designed to lift loads weighing up to 5 tons. To construct the mechanism, 4 plates with a thickness of 8 mm are required.

For self-assembly crane you need to have the following set of tools:

• drill;
• inverter for welding;
• spanners;
• Bulgarian

Assembling the mechanism is not complicated, so it can be easily done on your own. or any other device can be painted after assembly.

Assembly instructions and drawings

The design was called “goose” because of its L-shaped shape. The mechanism is easy to use, because thanks to it you can bring the boom to the engine compartment. This reduces labor costs for tying the engine, which reduces the time required to complete repair work.

The design of the “goose” is simple. The mechanism consists of a collapsible support equipped with wheels. With their help, it is easy to move it from place to place and roll it under a car.

The garage device has a vertical stand, on which a jack is installed. “Goose” has a retractable boom, which is equipped with a chain and hook. When the jack is activated, the boom goes up, lifting the load.

A hydraulic crane is most often used to lift an engine. The device can be made according to ready-made drawings, but most often a hand-created crane diagram is used; even beginners can draw it with their own hands.

See » The procedure for registering a crane in Rostechnadzor and the documents required for this

First, the collapsible part of the pore is made; it is a butt part. After this, the vertical stand is welded. A spacer must be installed at the bottom. After this, they proceed to installing the jack; it must be securely fastened. The boom is made to reach full reach; it is needed to remove the engine. All parts of the structure are welded. The result is a reliable yet maneuverable device.

When the product is ready, tests must be carried out.

To do this, hang a load that should be 20% heavier than the one that needs to be lifted. If the mechanism can withstand the load, it can be used for work. The goose crane is collapsible, so it will not take up much space in the garage.

How to use

The telescopic boom of the mechanism can be installed in several positions. The goose is maneuverable and can be controlled by 1 person. The equipment lifts quite heavy loads due to the installed jack; no additional accessories or devices for moving heavy loads are needed.

All motorists who like to tinker with their car at their leisure will unanimously say that a garage crane is extremely necessary for repair work. Without it, it is very difficult to remove and replace the engine, or move other heavy components. Now it is possible to buy ready-made devices.

The market offers electromechanical and hydraulic lifting mechanisms. But it is also possible to make such a device with your own hands according to your size and personal preferences.

Making a structure, popularly called a “goose,” is quite simple. First, you should find a drawing on the Internet and adjust it to your dimensions. For the mechanism described below, we take a minimum of material to get an inexpensive but reliable assistant.

Materials and tools

Drawing of a crane for work in a garage.

To create the device you will need the following materials:

• rectangular pipe 80 by 80, length 7 meters;
• pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, a length of 700 mm - 2 pieces;
• pipe with a diameter of 76 mm, length 900 mm;
• swivel wheels – 2 pieces;
• regular wheels - 2 pieces;
• wheels with brake – 2 pieces;
• metal plates 8 mm – 4 pieces;
• jack with a lifting capacity of 5 tons;
• chain, hook;
• M14 pin, 1000 mm long.

The following tools will be needed:

• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• drill;
• spanners.

Progress

Further work is carried out quite simply, the main thing is to have minimal familiarity with the principles of operation of the tools and welding machine.

Crane device diagram.

The installation process is as follows:

1. Let's get acquainted with the drawing and find out all the main points.
2. First you need to weld the butt part of the support; it will be the basis for the future crane.
   He also welds units with wheels onto it.
3. We weld a vertical stand to the butt part.
   We equip this structural element in the lower plane with a spacer.
4. We mount a jack and a crane boom on a vertical stand.
   The jack is secured with one side to the vertical support, and the other side to the boom.
5. A hook is welded to the end of the arrow, and chains are also stretched.

As you can see, there are no difficulties when installing the lift and it is quite possible to do it in your garage with your own hands.