home Concrete

Installation of roof sheathing and detailed installation of the base for various roofing coverings. Installation of sheathing: we equip a reliable base for different types of roofing; option - wooden sheathing for siding

In the photo: the frame serves as the basis for attaching the lining

Wherever you cover surfaces, be it a balcony, a bathhouse or a living space, the first thing to do is construct the sheathing for the lining. In this review we will figure out how to build a structure from wooden block and what nuances to pay close attention to. All recommendations have been tested in practice, so using them, you can carry out the work yourself.

Description of work

In order for the lathing for the lining to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow a certain work technology.

It consists of three stages:

Calculation and purchase of materials.
Preparing the bar for use.
Installation of the structure.

Each stage is important, so carefully read the entire review to avoid errors during operation.

The first stage – calculation and purchase of material

To work we need a very simple set of materials:

Wooden block.
Fasteners See article.
Insulation (if necessary).

FEATURE 1: frame location step. Optimal distance between the elements of the sheathing is from 40 to 60 cm. If the lining is thin, then it is better to place the bars more often, this will give the structure additional rigidity. The distance may be different if the length of the walls does not allow maintaining the same pitch of the elements.
FEATURE 2: If there are openings, a block must be secured around the perimeter. If we are talking about doorways, then it is better to mount two racks at a time to strengthen the system. It is advisable to mount guides at the top and bottom.

FEATURE 3: when used, the thickness of the bar must be no less than the thickness warm insulating material. The most commonly used option is 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm.
FEATURE 4: When purchasing material, pay attention to its moisture content. It should be no more than 15%. Raw elements may become deformed or crack when dry, so they should not be used.

Draw an approximate diagram of the sheathing with the pitch of the elements and their location. This will allow you to accurately calculate the required amount of material and not buy an extra bar.

FEATURE 5: insulation is calculated based on the area on which it will be mounted;
FEATURE 6: fasteners are selected based on the type of base. For concrete and brick, quick installation dowels are needed; for wood, self-tapping screws or nails are used.

The second stage - preparation of the bar

The finished material must be prepared accordingly.

The work instructions look like this:

STEP 1: The material should be placed for a couple of days in the room that will be finished. This will allow the bar to acclimatize so that its temperature and humidity are the same as in the room.
STEP 2: elements are treated with an antiseptic composition. This can be done using a regular brush, treating all surfaces in order. You can do it differently and make a trough from the boards, which is covered with film. An antiseptic is poured there, and the block is simply dipped, This option provides the highest quality protection.

STEP 3: While the products are drying, you can prepare the walls. To do this, markings along the width of the racks are applied to the surface. The work is done using a pencil and a level so that the lines are straight. This will allow you to clearly see what the structure will look like and will simplify your work; you will not need to be distracted while monitoring the correct position of the elements;

STEP 4: measurements are taken to determine the length of the bars. It is better to do this in several places, since the walls or ceiling may be uneven;

Do not forget to leave gaps of 5-10 mm so that the block does not rest and deform due to changes in temperature and humidity.

STEP 5: cutting the block is done with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Here it is important to correctly mark the elements and cut them perpendicularly so that the ends are even. It is also advisable to treat the cut off areas with an antiseptic so that the bar is completely protected from moisture and pests.

The third stage - installation of the frame

Let's figure out how to make a sheathing for the lining with your own hands.

The workflow looks like this:

STEP 1: First you need to drill holes in the block. The diameter depends on what kind of fastener will be used. At the same time, remember that it is better to make holes for the screws to make them easier to tighten. The fasteners are located in increments of 40-50 cm, the minimum distance from the edge is 30 mm.

STEP 2: Mounting points are also marked on the wall, and drilling is done if necessary. For work, a hammer drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter is used. Remember that for reliable fastening, the screw or dowel must penetrate the surface at least 50 mm. See also article.

STEP 3: if the unevenness on the wall or ceiling is very significant, then it is easier to secure the block with the help of hangers. They are located along a line every 50 cm and are fixed perpendicular to the sheathing. The price of such fasteners is low, so the project costs will increase slightly.
STEP 4: when fastening, the ends of the suspension are bent to the bar, after which it is leveled and fixed in the desired position. This option is very convenient because of its simplicity and accuracy, so you can level any base very quickly.

Every man should, if not build a house, then at least trim it with his own hands. If siding is chosen as the facing material for the external walls, then all installation features will need to be studied.

Installation of siding involves the installation of sheathing - a frame for the siding. To improve the home and protect it from harmful influences external environment, as well as to ensure the preservation of the appearance of the facing material, it is necessary to implement several stages of work. And also, put some useful tips into practice.

Is lathing necessary for siding?

Installation of wood, vinyl or metal siding begins with determining the need for sheathing.

Of course, siding can be attached directly to the base of the house, i.e. without sheathing. But, only if:

the base is level;
the surface area is insignificant;
it is possible to provide a ventilation gap;
There is no provision for installing thermal insulation material under the siding.

In all other cases, regardless of what type of siding you choose, installation of the frame is necessary.

Good to know. The sheathing is needed not only to attach the siding sheets, but also to provide the ventilation gap necessary to ensure condensation drainage.

Do-it-yourself lathing for siding - instructions

Stage 1 – surface preparation

Guarantee high-quality installation siding panels will prepare the base of the surfaces that are intended for cladding.

Advice. Do not think that defects in the house can be “hidden” behind the cladding. They will definitely show themselves, but access to them will be much more problematic than before the sheathing.

Surface preparation includes the following:

Dismantling protruding elements on the facade of the house. Regardless of the material from which the house is built, you need to remove everything unnecessary. To the interference, in in this case may include: protruding window sill, low tide, deformed plaster, peeled paint. If there are poorly nailed boards, they need to be secured.

Sealing cracks. If there are any, seal them with cement-sand mortar ( Brick wall) or tow (wooden, timber, log).

Advice. If the house is wooden, it is necessary to treat its surface with an antiseptic solution to protect the base from pests.

Getting rid of everything in contact with the surface. Tree branches, bushes, drainage system, places where lighting fixtures are fastened, awnings, canopies - all this needs to be removed so that covering a private house with siding is less problematic and of higher quality.

Advice. At fastening points decorative elements(corners), as well as near windows and doors, you will “stomp around” a lot, so if you are afraid of any bushes or perennials, it is better to transplant them. You must have at least a meter and a half square meter of free space to install the frame for the siding.

Try to remove any roots that might sprout inside the siding sheathing. Visually they will be invisible, but over time they will lead to deformation of the insulation under the sading.

Alignment of walls. The maximum visual effect of the cladding is possible if there is a flat surface. For leveling, a building level and plumb line are used.

Stage 2 – tools and materials

It is advisable to prepare both of these before starting work. In this case, you will not have to interrupt your work due to lack of material or searching for a tool.

Tools:

grinder or metal scissors;
roulette;
plumb line;
square;
building level;
hammer;
hacksaw.

If the house is tall, you should take care of scaffolding, because it is very inconvenient to carry out installation from a stepladder.

Good to know. The work of installing the sheathing is quite dusty. Therefore, to protect your eyes and hands from chips, splinters and scratches, stock up on safety glasses and gloves.

Material:

The names and quantities depend on what will be used as the material for the frame - wood or a metal profile.

Types of sheathing for siding

Option 1 – wooden sheathing for siding

Wooden beam with a section of 50x50mm.

The amount of timber is calculated only based on the need for standing profiles, which are mounted in increments of 500-600mm, depending on the type of insulation.

Hardware. Quantity based on 1 hardware per 400 mm. surfaces.

Good to know. It is more difficult to “extend” (build up) a wooden beam, so the length of the post beam must be equal to the height of the house.

When choosing wood for a frame, pay attention to its moisture content. If it is above 12%, the wood should be subjected to natural drying. The drying time depends on the humidity level. And it can reach 1 month.

Advice. During drying, it is better to press down the wood with something heavy to avoid “torsion” of the wood. It is better to store lumber in a well-ventilated area, avoiding direct sunlight as much as possible.

The service life of wood can be increased by impregnating it with a special solution.

Option 2 – metal sheathing for siding

A frame for metal profile siding will cost you more, but installation will be easier and the durability will be several times higher.

For device metal frame you will need:

UD guide profile

The number of profiles can be easily calculated by summing up all the perimeters. For example, you have a wall measuring 3 by 3 meters, in which there is one window measuring 1 by 1 meter. Then, you will need 3+3+3+3=12 m.p. profile for the wall and 1+1+1+1=4 m.p. for installing a guide profile near the window.

Stand CD profile

The need for it is determined as follows: the length of the surface is divided by 0.6. Since a profile is installed on average every 60 cm. The height of the house will increase the number of profiles.

Good to know. The installation distance of the profile is affected by the expected insulation under the siding.

CD connector for CD profile

Needed if the height of the house is more than 3 or 4 meters. (standard profile length 3 or 4 m.p.).

The number of connectors is calculated based on the estimated number of profile joints.

Good to know. Since the purpose of the frame is to withstand the weight of the siding, the thickness of the metal profile must be at least 0.45 mm.

Elongation is carried out using the method shown in the figure.

Material prepared for the website website

ES bracket

Used to fix the CD profile to the surface.

Good to know. ES-bracket (U-shaped bracket or crocodile) allows you to level the surface clearly.

Hardware. For attaching UD profile. The choice of hardware depends on the quality of the base (wall).

Advice. A self-tapping screw is suitable for aerated concrete and brick. For wood you need a dowel screw. The length depends on the quality of the surface. Quantity based on 1 hardware per 400 mm. surfaces.

Hardware “flea” 3.5x9.5mm. For fastening metal to each other.

Stage 3 – marking the sheathing for siding

Markings are applied using building level and plumb line. In the future, a frame will be built on it.

Advice. When applying markings, keep in mind that if the siding will be mounted horizontally, the markings should be applied vertically. If it is vertical, then the marking will be horizontal.

The correct geometry will ensure a beautiful and problem-free installation of siding panels.

Do not think that defects in the arrangement of the frame can be “hidden” behind the siding. On the contrary, they will appear quite clearly.

In regions with a humid climate, moisture insulation will help protect the surface of the walls from moisture. The choice of insulation material will be affected by the material of the house's foundation. Installation of moisture insulation is shown in the figure.

Stage 4 – installation of a frame for siding

Method 1 – installation of wooden sheathing under the siding

The technology of this method is simpler, since it does not require the installation of a horizontal profile.

As already mentioned, vertical beams are mounted at a distance equal to the width of the insulation. The self-tapping screw is attached in 400mm increments. If there is a strong wind load in the region, it is better to install with smaller increments.

No horizontal fastening of timber is required

And the starting strip of siding will be attached directly to the stand profile.

Despite the fact that there is no need to fix the beams horizontally, near window and doorways they will provide greater rigidity.

The same purposes will be served by installing beams at all corners of the house and in places of high loads. For example, where a canopy will be installed or a lantern will be hung.

Advice. Work on the installation of wooden sheathing cannot be carried out in wet weather.

Method 2 – installation of metal sheathing under the siding

Work on the construction of the metal frame begins with the installation of the UD profile. It is attached along the perimeter of the wall, and is also used to frame window and door openings.

To install the guide strip, a UD profile is used, and the siding will be attached to the metal sheathing using a CD profile, which is mounted in increments equal to the width of the insulation.

Good to know. In fact, a UD profile is not required to attach the starting strip. Its main purpose is to fix the stand-up CD profile and impart rigidity to the entire structure. To do this, the CD profile is simply inserted into the UD profile, as shown in the photo.

The CD profile is attached to the wall using an ES bracket. Its use is convenient because it allows you to simultaneously level the frame, without the use of additional beacons.

The CD profile is extended depending on the height of the house using a CD extension. As shown in the photo.

Advice. Particular rigidity of the structure must be provided at the corners of the frame, since there the load on them will be greatest.

Conclusion

We found out that, despite the type of siding chosen, the siding of the house using it is almost always carried out on the frame. We also looked at the process of installing sheathing under siding and studied the main materials (wooden beams, metal profiles) that are used in this case.

Lathing

Device base roofing material is the sheathing. When constructing it, it is necessary to observe many nuances and subtleties. That is why lathing under metal tiles should be done, if not by professionals, then using professional instructions.

First of all, you need to understand what a sheathing is. This term is used to refer to a structure made of beams and boards attached to the rafters perpendicularly. The sheathing for metal tiles takes on the direct load from the roofing material and transfers it to the rafters, and then to the supporting structures of the entire building.

The following types of materials are used for the construction of sheathing:

beam;
boards;
plywood.

There are several types of lathing structures.

Discharged.
Solid

Single-layer - structural elements are laid horizontally on the rafters, with the boards positioned parallel to the ridge.

Two-layer - a double layer of sheathing is assumed. In this case, the second layer is in the direction of the ridge along the overhang, sometimes the bars of the second slope are laid diagonally on the first slope.

The theory of sheathing for metal tiles

Before the process of laying the roofing covering, care should be taken to create better conditions for a durable and reliable flooring, since the construction of any type of roof requires lathing with different pitches. Boards for counter-lattice under metal tiles can have different thicknesses. So, when purchasing material for sheathing with a thickness of 30 mm, in fact you will get elements whose width will differ from the declared ones within 5 mm.

This phenomenon is observed almost always. The only exception is calibrated planed board. That is why, preparation for installation of sheathing for laying metal tiles involves calibrating and leveling the boards.

This procedure makes it possible to exclude battens that differ in the width and thickness of the board at adjacent rows and joints. Since the use of different-sized boards that differ significantly in size will lead to difficulties when laying metal tiles.

Using a board with a thickness of 30 mm allows you to have the margin necessary when sawing, which can reduce its thickness.

The board should be able to support the weight of even a large person. After all, when constructing a roof, it is planned to walk on boards. It is not recommended to use unedged or semi-edged boards when constructing sheathing.

Lathing for metal tiles

The sheathing step for metal tiles should be carried out according to the following rules:

The distance between the elements of the sheathing beams is indicated in the instructions for the types of roofing. It is counted from the top of one board to the bottom of the second board.

The sheathing pitch is selected according to the type of metal tile, since different profiles require different pitches.

Between the first two sheathing boards, the pitch value should be less than the beam elements.

The pitch of the sheathing under the metal tile is influenced by the slope of the roof slope, as well as the amount of protrusion of the roof beyond the outermost bar of the sheathing.

The calculation of the sheathing pitch may be influenced by the presence drainpipe, which can have different widths and configurations. When attaching the drain to the front board, it is nailed to the ledge. Important role plays the diameter of the gutter. So, for example, with a gutter diameter of 9 cm, a protrusion of equal size is required, with a gutter diameter of 12 cm, a larger one.

The protrusion of the roofing material begins to be calculated either from the rafter cut or from the front board. Thus, the steeper the angle of the roof slope, the lower the metal should be lowered in order to even out the length of the protrusion. If the calculation is incorrect, the metal tile sheathing may not be located where the metal tile should be fastened with self-tapping screws.

The distance between two boards is calculated using a level. Next, measure the distance from the top point of the very first wave to the edge of the bottom of the metal tile sheet, make a mark.

From the very edge of the front board, it is necessary to draw a vertical line to the previously established level and make a mark. Between the two marks made, you will get a certain distance between the bottom of the first board and the top of the second sheathing board, taking into account the protrusion of the roofing material and the slope of the slope.

The first sheathing board should be made thicker, as this will help prevent overhang when attaching the roofing material.

When constructing the roof, the length of the other sheathing boards is measured from the top of the second board at regular intervals, corresponding to the roofing profile. Marks must be made across several rafters, as the board may end up crooked. In this case, you will have to take measures to level it so that the roof lies firmly and evenly.

After the first three or four rows of sheathing are completed, the remaining boards, for convenience, can be laid on the slope.

Boards located in the same row of sheathing should be connected to the rafters. Do not lay boards overlapping under the roofing material. The difference in joints must be made along the rafters.

Please note that the sheathing should be joined on one rafter. This will ensure the rigidity of the structure.

Also, do not forget that laying and calculating the sheathing must be done from top to bottom. And also take into account the length of the remaining roofing material.

Please note that the sheathing should be joined on one rafter. This will ensure the rigidity of the structure. Also, do not forget that laying and calculating the sheathing must be done from top to bottom. And also take into account the length of the remaining roofing material.

Installation of lathing under metal tiles: step-by-step instruction

It is necessary to select a beam for the rafter legs of the following size: at least 5 by 15 cm, and for the sheathing at least 2.5 by 10 cm. a 2.5 x 5 cm board is ideal for a counter-lattice.

Rafter step to complete the lathing it should be about 6-9 cm.

The initial board is nailed strictly along the eaves overhang so that it does not go beyond it.

Please note that the thickness of the first board should be a couple of centimeters greater than the others. This is necessary to compensate for the level of the support points of the entire tile module.

The pitch of the sheathing elements is assumed to be such that the distance between the first board and the cornice is at least 5 cm, and between subsequent ones - 30-40 cm. Between the remaining boards, the sheathing pitch should be equal to the pitch of the metal tile profile, that is, 35-40 cm.

In order to check whether the distance between the first two boards of the sheathing is correct, it is necessary to lay out two pieces of plank on the ground, parallel to each other and at a certain distance, put tile elements on them and determine whether the roof overhang is sufficient for water drainage. If the lip is too large, water may overflow the edge of the gutter. Too little protrusion will cause water to be blown by the wind between the front board and the gutter. In addition, there is some possibility of sheets deforming under snow load.

Marking must begin with the first board facing the cornice. This is done using a tape measure.

A wind board should be installed above the sheathing. Depending on the type of tile, the sheet height can vary from 3.5 to 5.5 cm.

In the places where the ridge is attached, for greater strength, additional boards with a section of 3 by 10 cm are hammered in. This should also simplify its further installation.

In the process of planning an organized drainage system, before installing the roofing material, it is necessary to install brackets to secure the gutters. The eaves tile is installed before installing metal tiles along the roof overhang.

First, you need to determine the mounting locations for the bracket, which are fastened in increments of 5-6 cm and fastened along the bottom of the sheathing.

The gutter is inserted into the brackets and secured. The cornice strip is attached to the sheathing in such a way that the edge of the gutter is covered by the edge of the strip. It is this kind of overlap that can ensure the drainage of condensate from the strip into the gutter. The length of the overlap must be at least 10 cm.

Installation of sheathing for metal tiles: continuous sheathing option

In construction, a continuous type of lathing is used. It is laid out using beams, between which there should be gaps of 1-2 cm, and in a discharged sheathing - about 3-5 cm. In addition to metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is also suitable for various types soft roof and various types of natural slate.

Please note that continuous sheathing should be located on the overhangs of the eaves and on the sloped intersections of the roof (ribs, valleys, ridge).

Before installing a continuous sheathing, you should take care of the anti-condensation film. If, according to the plan, the roof design provides for insulation (as is the case with a residential attic), then it is necessary to use a film to protect the insulation from condensation and blowing. If you don’t use film, the attic space will most likely end up cold and damp. Because truss structures and the sheathing will remain unprotected from exposure environment.

We also draw your attention to the fact that the selected film should be laid over the rafters, from the bottom of the roof.

The horizontal stripes overlap each other by about 15 cm. Also, do not stretch the film. For its best functioning, sagging of several centimeters is necessary. The film is secured along the rafters with special bars, the width of which, in cross-section, is equal to the width of the rafters themselves, and the thickness is at least 4 cm.

After the installation of the film flooring over the entire roof is completed, the next step is to install a sheathing for the metal tiles, onto which the metal tiles will subsequently be attached. In cases where the roof structure does not provide for the laying of a film insulator, the horizontal sheathing is attached directly to the rafters. The boards used for lathing must be treated with antiseptic solutions and have a cross-section of about 3 cm. Any so-called inch board will do here. It is necessary to take into account that the boards must be adjusted both in length and thickness. The even position of the roof elements depends on this. However, the lowest board should be a couple of centimeters thicker than the rest.

The first board should be attached to the bottom of the rafters. The boards must be secured in several places using screws or nails, this is necessary so that they do not turn out. The pitch of the plank flooring can be equal to the pitch of the tile wave, or it can be continuous, without gaps. If they are bent, fastening the metal tile sheets will be complicated.

Properly executed lathing can significantly reduce the percentage of noise caused by wind, rain and other weather disasters.

In the same way as in the case of a discharged sheathing, a continuous sheathing is completely covered with a layer of film waterproofing. The end of the film is fixed along the roof eaves so that it hangs down and completely covers the roof surface.

We draw attention to the need to leave a distance between the sheeting film and the rafters. This distance should be about 2 cm. Bars should be fixed along the top of the waterproofing, onto which a layer of counter-lattice is later laid.

Roof sheathing

You should take bars with a minimum cross-section of 4 by 2.5 cm. The bars are nailed in the next layer after the counter-lattice. In this case, you should be very careful when calculating the pitch of the metal tile wave. And it is at this distance that the sheathing bars should be placed.

The board facing the cornice should be installed several tens of centimeters wider than other boards for sheathing.

The end strip of the sheathing is placed above all other elements of the sheathing approximately to the height of the metal tile sheet.

At the ends of the ridge strip, a couple more boards should be laid in addition, carefully securing them. This is necessary to enhance the strength of the structure.

In the rafter system, the ridge board must be securely fastened.

The gutter for the drainage is attached to the lowest board of the roof sheathing.

In places near valleys, pipes and along the perimeter of dormer openings and roof windows, the counter-lattice is laid in a continuous manner.

For internal and external cladding during roofing, it is advisable to use anodized galvanized screws or nails. With ordinary nails, at the first rain, the lining will be damaged.

After the construction of the sheathing is completed, the installation of metal tiles begins.

In conclusion, some tips for building with wood:

boards should be treated with antiseptic, fire-resistant materials;
after laying the boards is completed, make sure that the coating does not have sagging, bumps or protruding heads from screws and nails;
the finished sheathing must be so strong that it does not bend under a person;
to make flooring, you should use wide boards;
it is necessary to use well-dried material;
the joints of the boards on the rafters should be staggered;
The boards should be nailed along the edges, and the caps should be recessed into the wood;
you should approach your purchase responsibly building material; check the boards for bends, cracks and other structural changes.

As a result, the construction of sheathing is not a complicated process, but it is responsible. The quality and service life of the roofing material depends on how competently the installation is carried out.

For construction, it is extremely important to choose high-quality material. Thus, if you use damp boards, the fastenings will not last long and will quickly become loose. Since the boards are subject to shrinkage, they will change in size over time as they dry.

In addition, a structure made of low-quality material is more susceptible to damage from snow loads.

The roof is considered one of the foundations that ensures the comfort of a home and protection from the negative effects of atmospheric factors. That is why the process of its arrangement must be organized rationally and correctly, down to the smallest detail. It is obvious that the installation of roofing material must be carried out in full accordance with technical recommendations and SNIP requirements. Roof lathing and counter lathing are one of the most important elements on which the future reliability and quality of the equipped roof depends.

One of them serves as the basis for installing the roofing material and creates a gap between the latter and the insulation layer, and with the help of the other they create additional ventilation ducts for the under-roof space. Therefore, the question “how to make a roof sheathing” does not lose its relevance. In essence, this structure, made of a series of boards nailed to the rafter system, is an “intermediary” between the roof covering and the enclosing structures. Among other things, through it the load of the roof is evenly distributed over the supporting frame.

Types of lathing depending on roofing material

There are two types of lathing (formwork):
- sparse – used more often for sheet corrugated material, the minimum distance between battens is 40–50 mm. The material used is timber for sheathing with a section of 50 by 40–50 or boards: width 10–20 cm, thickness 2.5–3 cm.
- solid– made from tongue-and-groove boards (2.5x10 cm), and now more often from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB3, with a gap between parts of 1 cm. This type is mainly used for piece roofing materials.
As a rule, continuous formwork is performed as follows. They install the sparse formwork and make a second layer of formwork on it. There are two possible execution options here:
- They fill the sparse formwork by laying dry boards (preferably tongue-and-groove) close to one another. They should be located at an angle of 45° with respect to the first layer - thin formwork;
- on the first one, sheet materials, such as moisture-resistant plywood, are attached.
Thus, in order to lay the roof, it is necessary to make a special frame: first, repeating the pattern of the rafters, a counter-lattice is mounted, after which, already across them, the frame itself is nailed, on which the roofing covering is laid.

The structure of the frame is determined by the type of roof. For example, in the case of metal tiles, square bars (□ 50, □ 60) are used for installation, which are laid with a certain pitch. At the same time, a continuous flooring is made under the bituminous shingles or roll coating using waterproof plywood or thin boards.

These structural elements make it possible to make the roof covering of the selected material continuous and provide strength roofing structure.

How to make a roof sheathing, what board to use and what to fasten it with

The installation of the frame under the flooring is made from materials such as: timber, plywood, boards (preferably tongue-and-groove), planks (in the case of a solid version). When choosing lumber, it must be at least second grade and without a single knot. Use unedged boards or timber is not recommended, as this may affect the quality of the future roof structure. In extreme cases, their edges will need to be cut off.

To avoid warping, the maximum width of the boards should be 150 mm - using too wide ones can cause damage to the roof.

If the lumber is not dry enough, then over time the wood will dry out and the fasteners will weaken. All wooden elements load-bearing structure must undergo mandatory antiseptic treatment, which will protect them from damage by pests and rotting.

There is no such frame only in houses with flat roofs, For pitched roofs such a design is required. Moreover, the steeper the slope, the more, say, the sheathing gable roof, has a smaller step.

For normal operation and durability of the roofing structure, it is necessary to ensure a specific humidity regime. Since houses are usually heated, if the roof is not properly constructed, warm air coming from the interior will settle in the under-roof space in the form of condensation.

Double lathing mansard roof practically lifts the covering above the insulation layer and provides ventilation in the under-roof space. That is, water vapor and atmospheric moisture that got there from the interior of the house will easily be blown out, and the structure will thus be protected from rotting.

Double flooring should not have
- gaps larger than 6 mm (if this is not the case, then the gaps are blocked using strips of roofing steel);
- should not bend from the weight of a person;
- the boards should butt together on the rafters and be staggered.
It is also important with what nails to nail the sheathing and how. They are hammered closer to the edges of the lumber, slightly recessing the caps into the wood. The length of the nails is chosen based on the calculation - twice as long as the thickness of the board being nailed. The consumption of nails for the sheathing is 10 pcs/m2.

One of the mandatory elements of roofing is sheathing, which is beams that are laid perpendicularly on the rafters. The sheathing takes on the load of the roofing material, transfers it to the rafters, and they transfer the pressure to load-bearing walls. Proper installation of sheathing is a responsible and difficult task, the implementation of which is best entrusted to professional builders.

beam;
board;
plywood;

There are two types of roof sheathing:

Sparse roof sheathing is characterized by a gap of several centimeters between the beams

A solid sheathing is laid on a sparse one. For this, fiberboard, laminated chipboard, and boards can be used. The boards are laid at a distance of 1 cm from each other at an angle of 45° to the boards of the sparse sheathing. The gap between the boards is necessary in order to absorb thermal deformations of the wood. It is better to use a tongue and groove board.

The continuous layer may be the only one laid directly on the rafters.

Lathings can be single-layer or double-layer. The first layer must be laid parallel to the ridge, horizontally. The step can reach 50-100 cm. It can be the only one, or it can be used for flooring on top of the second layer.

Important ! The roof deck should not have sag or bumps, especially if a fragile long material, for example, slate, is used as a roof.

The flooring must be durable and can withstand the weight of a person. Otherwise, when walking on the roof, the fastenings and joints of the roofing parts are broken, and this leads to leaks.

How the sheathing will be installed largely depends on the material chosen for the roof. As an example, let’s take one of the most popular materials – metal tiles.

Laying anti-condensation film

In cases where roof insulation is planned, an anti-condensation film will be needed, which will protect the insulation from condensation and blowing. Without the film, the sheathing and rafters will be ventilated, and the attic will be cold. When arranging sheathing for metal tiles, such a film is spread on the rafters in horizontal stripes over the entire roof area with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It should not be pulled, the film should sag between the rafters. The structure is secured with bars equal in cross-section to the width of the rafters, 3 cm thick.

Installation of lathing under metal tiles

After completing the installation of the film flooring, you can proceed to the installation of the sheathing on which the metal tiles will be fixed. In cases where laying the film is not provided, horizontal lathing is done directly on the rafters. All horizontal boards used must be antiseptic. The cross-section is 2.5-3 cm by 1-1.5 cm. Any inch can be suitable, but it is very important that the thickness of all laid boards be the same. Correct selection thickness guarantees an even roof plane. Not only functionality depends on this, but also appearance Houses. The only exception is the bottom board, which should be one and a half centimeters thicker than the others.

Important ! The bottom board is attached first. To prevent the boards from twisting in the future, they are immediately secured in two places with screws or nails.

Sheathing ready for installation of metal tiles

Calculation of board spacing

The pitch is selected in accordance with the profile and type of metal tile. Usually the distance between the beams is indicated in the instructions and is calculated from the bottom point of the first board to the top of the second. Between the first two boards this value should be smaller.

The size of the step is influenced by both the size of the roof ledge beyond the first block and the slope of the roof slope. The pitch is calculated taking into account the drainage. If it is mounted on the front board, then 30 mm is added to the protrusion. The length of the protrusion is also affected by the diameter of the gutter.

The protrusion of the material is measured either from the front board, or, if there is none, from the rafter cut. The length to which metal tiles should be lowered depends on the roof slope. The steeper it is, the lower the material has to be lowered.

Step-by-step installation instructions

For rafters, a beam with a size of at least 50*150 mm is selected, for sheathing - with a cross-section of at least 25*100 mm. The counter-lattice can be made from 25*50 mm boards.

The rafter pitch is usually 600-900 mm.

An initial board is nailed along the eaves overhang, and it should not protrude beyond the overhang. To compensate for the difference in levels of the fulcrum of the tile modules, this board, as already mentioned, should be a centimeter and a half thicker than the others.

The step between the board facing the cornice should be 50 mm less than the step between other boards. To check the correctness of this distance, two pieces of board are laid out on the ground, on which a tile element is placed. This determines whether the protrusion is sufficient and whether it can ensure normal water flow. If the protrusion is larger than required, water will overflow through the gutter. If, on the contrary, it is less than required, water will be blown between the frontal board and the gutter. In addition, if the protrusion is too long, the sheets may become deformed due to excessive snow load.

The installation of sheathing for metal tiles requires care

After marking is completed, the ridge and end strips are fastened.

The wind board is attached above the sheathing exactly to the width of the metal tile sheet, that is, 35-55 mm, depending on its type.

In order to securely fasten the ridge, 25*100 mm boards are nailed at the attachment points. This will help with its installation in the future.

If you plan to install a drain before installing the roof, you must install brackets to which the gutters are attached. The brackets are installed on the bottom board in increments of 500-600mm.

First, the outer brackets are mounted in such a way as to calculate the slope of the gutter per 1 meter of length (5 millimeters). Then the cord is stretched, along which the remaining brackets are attached. Also, before laying the metal tiles, a cornice strip is mounted along the roof overhang.

The gutter is mounted on brackets, then the cornice strip is fixed so that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the installed gutter. In this case, the condensate flowing from the strip will fall into the gutter. The overlap of the cornice strips must be no less than 100 mm.

At junction points (pipes, ridges, valleys, roof windows, etc.) a continuous type of sheathing is installed.

After completing all of the above operations, you can begin the direct installation of metal tiles.

Lathing is the basis of both roofing and rafter system Houses

It is worth remembering that the service life of your roof depends on many factors, both on the quality of installation and on the service life of components. A lot depends on how correctly the sheathing is installed: the appearance of the entire structure, the service life of the roof, the safety of the house, even the reduction of rain noise. And since its arrangement requires experience, knowledge of the nuances and subtleties, it is advisable that the installation work be entrusted to professional installers.